Good to hear. It's been great for us so far dealing with all the snow we've gotten this winter, has started every time without a problem once we replaced the battery. Will be needing to locate several seals for the hydraulic controls here in the near future. Thanks for watching and the comment!
USE FORWARD SMALL STICK FOR F N R. THE LARGER STICK IS TO SELECT HIGH OR LOW AND A GEAR... CRACK FUEL LINES AT INJECTORS AND USE PRIME PUMP, SPIN OVER WITH COMPRESSION RELEASE ON AND HOT BATTERY... SPIN FREELY TILL SEE FUEL ..
I have one of those. Here they are called depending of the manufacturing plant they were made, Kharkiv HTZ T25 or Vladimirec T25 - I guess exports are called Belarus, even thought they were not made in Belarus plant. Good choice on the starter motor, original one is crap and way too slow to get that good fast crank on diesel. I also find original fuel system being a crap - getting air leaks very often and filters-seals shrinking and dissolving. Likely due that modern day manufactured seals and filters for that tractor are just poorly made. I personally replaced the filters with dual CAV296 type filter. Meanwhile I also changed injector pump with modern one - as old was worn and didnt work very well anymore. Modern fuel pump is made by KURO APARATURA model name: "2 UTHI-1111005-D120" if you are interested of it. Centrifugal oil filter can also be replaced by modern one - I haven't changed it as it works well enough. About spare parts - Poland, Lithuania, Czech, Ukraine, Belarus and Russia (last two likely not available on western markets anymore) are still manufacturing spare parts. But quality varies a lot - so when ordering spares, I have ordered 2-3x of same item and just hoped that at-least one of them fits well enough. Mine was built 20 years before I was born - in the early 70's. And I feel if its well maintained, its going to outlive me.
You need to upgrade the battery cables with thicker gauge ones. eliminate the battery cut off switch and move the ground wire to the engine block off of the tin. every connection on the ground side you can eliminate, is a plus, because connections mean a loss in amps.
One of the best diesel engines ever
Good to hear. It's been great for us so far dealing with all the snow we've gotten this winter, has started every time without a problem once we replaced the battery. Will be needing to locate several seals for the hydraulic controls here in the near future. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Main tractor 😉👍🏼
Thanks!
These startors are fairly easy to restore having done it myself!
USE FORWARD SMALL STICK FOR F N R. THE LARGER STICK IS TO SELECT HIGH OR LOW AND A GEAR... CRACK FUEL LINES AT INJECTORS AND USE PRIME PUMP, SPIN OVER WITH COMPRESSION RELEASE ON AND HOT BATTERY... SPIN FREELY TILL SEE FUEL ..
I have one of those. Here they are called depending of the manufacturing plant they were made, Kharkiv HTZ T25 or Vladimirec T25 - I guess exports are called Belarus, even thought they were not made in Belarus plant.
Good choice on the starter motor, original one is crap and way too slow to get that good fast crank on diesel.
I also find original fuel system being a crap - getting air leaks very often and filters-seals shrinking and dissolving. Likely due that modern day manufactured seals and filters for that tractor are just poorly made. I personally replaced the filters with dual CAV296 type filter.
Meanwhile I also changed injector pump with modern one - as old was worn and didnt work very well anymore. Modern fuel pump is made by KURO APARATURA model name: "2 UTHI-1111005-D120" if you are interested of it.
Centrifugal oil filter can also be replaced by modern one - I haven't changed it as it works well enough.
About spare parts - Poland, Lithuania, Czech, Ukraine, Belarus and Russia (last two likely not available on western markets anymore) are still manufacturing spare parts. But quality varies a lot - so when ordering spares, I have ordered 2-3x of same item and just hoped that at-least one of them fits well enough.
Mine was built 20 years before I was born - in the early 70's. And I feel if its well maintained, its going to outlive me.
Thanks for all the great information!
You need to upgrade the battery cables with thicker gauge ones. eliminate the battery cut off switch and move the ground wire to the engine block off of the tin. every connection on the ground side you can eliminate, is a plus, because connections mean a loss in amps.
@@scrambler69-xk3kv No, battery cut off switch must be there. That soviet generator would drain your battery.