Merica! Also, as a professional HVAC tech. Nice work 👍 Btw, a micron gauge will tell you best if you have a leak or not. But unless you plan on going professional, i dont recommend buying a bunch of tools you'll use once lol Also i never use any sealant. Didnt even know that was a thing 😅
@@samuelkrakow859 i dont think so dude 🤣 i dont know what you work on, but 500 microns is literally the most that you need, even in light commercial. You're talking out of your ass. Maybe you should ask the people who make the fucking units before you spread your bs lies on the internet 🤡👍 i take these classes regularly to learn the new crap that comes out every year. Sheet metal? So you do duct work. Good for you installer
Just another tip when you are going from vacuum to charging the line set and indoor head. Open the high side opposite (top) side of your gauge vacuum connection first with allen key very very slowly until you just see 5 psi on the gauges. Then close the port with allen key. Now remove the gauge line from the Schrader fitting and then fully open both pump valves. You will only lose a very small amount of refrigerant this way. And don't forget to Nylog the cap fittings as it is typical for gas to sneak by the o-rings in the valves. Good Job!
I've installed many of these here in Tokyo many many of them. You did everything right, not to my standard, I use some different tools but still very good. We don't use the nitrogen pressure test for basic mini-splits here with only the two or I guess four joints, but on larger installs we do, but for basic mini-splits like that no one does the pressure test. To test the joint inside I prop the bottom of the evaporator unit (Inside on the wall) off the wall by about 4 inches then spray the leak test stuff that will bubble, when I get no bubbles I then wrap the joint up and put the unit back down on the wall. Mini-splits rock they make up maybe 80% or more of home installs. Cheers from Tokyo! Stu
Great tip. If I can ask you: Once ive connected the linesets together (to the evaporator lines but not yet to the condenser) can I still disconnect them if I need to flip them around so the bends go in the direction I want? I'm having a hard time making the bend to the condenser and it would help if I could just disconnect and reconnect the lineset from the evaporator. Note: The lineset is pre-charged with refrigerant and use quick-connect (male\female) adapters that you screw together and torque.
@@Grainsauce if you are asking me I'd say you get what you pay for. I do my very best to only use the Made in Japan Daikin brand, but that is not always possible. How long they last depends on a lot of things; location, are they just sitting up on a rooftop exposed to sun, wind rain etc 24/7..? Is the unit correctly sized for the job? Too many people buy the cheaper unit and it's actually too small for the cooling they want, then they have to run it full blast all the time to work right, this wears out units early. Is it cleaned? I like to clean my units inside and out every two years, if the unit is in a place like a restaurant for the kitchen then once a year, the filter needs to be cleaned twice a year at least. If the unit is maintained, the filter is cleaned and the size is correct as well as it being installed correctly they should last 10 years, but I've got units that were installed in 2001 and they still work fine, and they get used every day in the summer time. Buy better quality units, saving $100 or more on the purchase price might cost you in the long run, IMHO. Sorry if that was more than you wanted to know. Cheers from Tokyo!
I’ve been a female handywoman working alone since 2007. First of all you are making me want my own workshop. Second I plan to install some mini splits - I loved these when I lived in paraguay, South America.
These Split AC units are great for server rooms and computer labs in small to midsize businesses. I've seen them used there a lot. Relatively easy, inexpensive way to get a dedicated cooling system into a room you plan on throwing a bunch of tech stuff into.
They are amazing in your general living area. They can heat and cool up to 500 square feet. So put one in your main living area and shut the big units off.
It was good to mention that you should NOT disconnect the gauge set while the line set is under a vacuum but you really don't need to fully release the refrigerant before removing it either. In the future, all you really need to do is open one of the valves while watching the low pressure gauge and as soon as goes to a positive pressure (like 5 or 10 pounds) and then close the valve. Then you can safely remove the gauge set without letting outside air into the line set and if for some reason you have some difficulty removing the set from the fitting, you will not lose your charge. After you remove the gauge set, then you can fully open the valves and check for leaks.
tombonini7393, the tech who installed mine did the vacuum and all was good but he didnt open the line so the pressure go to positive. He disconnected the line quickly and then fully open the line. So I have a little air sucked back into my system? Please reply
@@VMH. Unless he was using a low loss line set, there is no doubt that some air was sucked into the system and even with one, it is still likely. The real issue is how much. If the system is operating properly then I wouldn't worry too much about it but make sure to keep record of who installed the unit in case of a premature failure. The system can handle a tiny amount of outside air without causing any real issues but the trick is to do everything reasonable to minimize or eliminate it from getting in and causing issues now and further down the road. Removing the gauge set while under vacuum is not one of those ways.
You inspired me I'm 25 and work a full time job installing doors and windows I now have been doing my business for over year I took on the thumbtack app I am always full of work and I have so many repeate customers I'm going full time now due to all you have shared I made over 10k this month just on side jobs doing plumbing flooring trim work and replacing easy stuff just wanted to say thank you !
Great job on the install 👏 I am a technician for hvacr and I also do wholesale distribution. I work around this stuff everyday all day. The only thing I recommend for you to not have issues later on is the coiled up linset outside at condenser cannot be coiled due to oil trapping in the coiled lineset. You will not have adequate oil return to the compressor. You should cut excess off and re-flare the ends. Great video though
Instead of coiling vertically, can you coil them horizontally to prevent this oil trapping. Most people will not have the tools or the aspiration to cut and flare the lines.
I believe that at least some systems will have a minimum line length. In the case of Senville with the 16 ft lines, they say you should have a minimum of 10 ft length.
@@5CeN5CaLi9 Yes, most mini split system come with refrigerant. You are fine cutting copper line set to your needs and flare it again. Most technicians don't like the factory flaring and they cut pipe on both ends and flare them. The line sets come in 16ft or 25ft and many times is hard to install units using those distances and they must be cut to size.
As an HVAC tech, thank you for pulling a vacuum! I've installed tons of mini splits, they're great systems, still hate them. for those of you who don't know, any line set longer than 25 feet needs added refrigerant which can only be done (in the US) by a licensed tech.
You mean the EPA class 1? The $20 open book online coarse that covers small appliances? Hardest part about this sort of HVAC is that local suppliers wont sell to you.
@@dandaman2226 Pretty sure its only open book if all your after is a class 1. Im just bitter because I have to buy my neighbor a Case of beer to get a capacitor instead of just going to the local supply house for a dumb capacitor. (or wait 3 days for shipping when its 100 degrees out). These certifications are meant to protect the homeowner/DIYer/environment not the tradesman's paycheck.
We use these units in Norway. We call them "heat pump" because we need the heat more than the AC part. They are very common, and is the "bread and butter" economic heating solution here. We have no ducts, and they still work beautifully for both heat and cooling. Nothing to worry about :)
My in-laws just installed a 36k BTU unit in their house to replace the main outdated unit. They have four indoor units strategically placed and it does an awesome job. Cut their power bill too!
I had these Tosots installed in my house in 2017, use both the cooling and heating and they really are amazing and energy conserving, I've had no problems yet considering they're in use almost every day. Good choice in Tosot. 👍
Great video, Handyman. These units aren’t just air conditioners, they’re heat pumps. Very popular here in Canada. They provide heating for a much lower cost than competing technologies. Potentially a nice business line for you.
got the Adjustable wrench out like a true HVAC tech. I've installed 1000's of these. and you can Coil the line sets unlike most of these guys will tell you.. just make sure your horizontal it twice the length of your vertical and it cant be a trap.. even on Heat Recovery units used commercially which is a lot more sensitive than a simple mini split install. great job (btw the Nylog blue is most in important on the back of the flare as it stop friction from preventing you from getting the proper torch on the flare nut its self)
I am researching installing my own mini split, and have watched several videos. Nobody, thus far, after watching 7 videos, have stated that one can "borrow" the vacuum and AC gauges from an auto parts store. -- you just leave $150 deposit and you get it back once you return the item(s). The only thing left to buy is the flange set, and the gauge "mini" connection. It's always best to not have extra length on the pipes, and God forbid you coil them in the vertical plane!
Don't borrow those. Last set I borrowed I had to replace all the o rings. And the pump just failed. Also beware that in some areas the AC companies will not service a DYI install. They will only service something they installed. My unit is trash. Never came on. No help from TOSOT. I have to now throw it out.
@@cb-gz1vl You're choosing to throw it out. If it was dead on arrival, then you can return it within 30 days. If it's beyond that, they can you can either find an A/C guy who will figure out what's wrong with it, or you can open it up and follow the pixies with a tester until you figure out why it doesn't come on. If you're just throwing it out, then you have more disposable cash than I do. I also came here to recommending the "free rental" from auto parts stores. I've generally had better luck with Auto Zone than the other stores. A gauge set and vacuum pump are used so infrequently by most people that it makes sense to at least try it before buying your own.
I’m an hvac technician myself, pulling the vacuum to see you have leak at either indoor, or outdoor is okay, but I would prefer to use nitrogen, put at least 250-300 psi, take some big blue spray bubbles check for leaks around the flair joints, and if there’s no bubbling then it’s good. I wouldn’t pop the values unless I’m 100% sure I have no leaks.
If I called an HVAC tech to test my system after I DIYd it - would that irritate the tech? Is that like taking a steak to a restaurant and asking them to cook it?
@@dougsnavely847 not really we gets an easy pay day if you did it right should only take about an hour to check. If not then you can pay us to fix it lol. Wanted to add to the nitrogen check though, usually I’ll check for leaks with blue spray as well as let it sit for about 30 min with 200+ psi and see if it drops too much. About 5/8 psi drop is ok but it’s usually pretty easy to see a leak if you keep your eyes on it
Sometimes, we are always trying to protect the trade. But if the install looks good and I feel comfortable with it I will provide the customer with my services. -Nitro Purge -Nitro Test -Vacumm (down to 200Microns or less with the valve closed and the pump off) -Added Charge (if needed) -Perform System Start Up But, I will not give them a break in the cost. There is a reason why we are in the trade and they are not. The knowledge and experience that we bring to the table have a cost.... Lastly, I will not take responsibility for any warranty or rebates.
Agreed... using the refrigerant to confirm at pressure there are no leaks is a tad risky. If there is a leak, and slightly increasing torque on the flare nut does not solve it, then the situation is getting dire. I also prefer proper leak solution vs soapy water. Soapy water does not always show small leaks.
@@dougsnavely847 Yes, he will charge you more and find any excuse to tell you did something wrong and that he has to re-do it or do new flares, etc. And he won't warranty his work if leaks in the future. Good luck finding a honest ac company. They charge $2000 to $4000 for labor intalling a mini split and takes them 1-2 hours. Easy money for them.
Nice summary. I would not skip the nitrogen pressure test. And pull the vacuum with a micron gauge. It’s just insurance. Most mini splits fail at the flare fittings. The factory flare nuts on my unit were cheap cast nuts that crow’s foot torque wrenches won’t fit. Yellowjacket makes an adjustable wrench torque wrench that would be better but it sure is pricey. Your installation should be great! Enjoy!
I'd invest in a Micron Guage and pull a correct deeper vacuum. Then pressurize the line set with nitrogen, and hope it holds over night. It being your personal unit you can wait 1 more day without cooling 😎.
one thing you want to keep an eye on is cleaning the cylinder fan once a year (this is actually a good business if these are popular in your area, takes like 30 minutes to clean and you can charge an easy 100$) mold tends to build up in there, also the drip pan can get clogged with mold so water will drip out of the head instead of out the tube. other than that, these things are fantastic
I'm going to be installing a mini split here shortly in my garage. My only thing that stood out to me on your install is at at 16:48 you have the line set at a vertical loop. Everything I've read in terms of Mitsubishi/Daikin...etc. state that you should not have vertical loop in the lineset due to the oil then possible resting at the lowest point and not being properly circulated within the system. I plan on getting longer lineset that what is needed just incase due to my install and then cut the end off and flare them so that I can have no excess lines and it's a fresh flare that's good. I've read many many videos where the factory flared ends aren't great, and for the $100 tool to make new flares it's worth piece of mind that you don't get a leak later on due to the machine that they used not properly flaring it. I just had a quote since we are getting our entire house HVAC systems replaced (2 furnaces and two ACs) and said how much for a mini split in the garage? They came back at me and said we can install one for $8k. I'm like cool thanks. Told my wife, no way in hell I'm spending $8k for a mini split in the garage when ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL these videos are showing how easy it is to install. The HARDEST part for me is going to be drilling the side exterior wall through the vinyl siding...lol. Who likes to drill huge holes in their house?! That's the most nerve wracking thing to me. The inside unit just as you said looks like you are hanging a microwave. No different than hanging a tv on the wall and I literally just did that for a friend over the weekend. I can't wait to have a cool garage in the summer and warm garage in the winter time. Good video. I like that it was a DIY and not some paid manufacture's video.
The open end wrench for your torque wrench is called a Crow's Foot. Nice job Handyman! Really enjoy your videos and appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience!
It’s been a while since I’ve UTubed. I immediately recognized your voice, but buddy, YOU’VE AGED. Great video and glad you recognized the “qualified” HVAC people. I’ve had to fire a few
i did residential for a while and now i work on grocery stores but grinned like a school girl when you brought out that nylog lmao that stuff is great. edit: also you explained the proper way to apply it. insane how many people dont get it bonus bonus edit: if you were to get real fancy with it, you could nylog your gauges to ensure they are super tight for pulling a vacuum
Handyman, just make sure you do yearly maintenance on the units, or trouble will eventually follow, usually ends up costing mor then units themselves. Cleaning and flushing yearly is what most brands recommend, and if knowledgeable…..don’t need to call hvac tech out to do, can do yourself. Glad have AC now and staying cool. Like your shop vids, work vids…..all dang it, like all your vids😊 Cheers✌🏻
That's what i'm talking about, now you are speaking my language...lol I just got my EPA 608 Universal certification two months ago here in Florida and let me tell you, I am a hot commodity now to all my family and friends...😊
A heat pump can collect and warm your house with 100,000 Btu's while consuming about 5-7 KW of power. The electric heaters will consume about 30 KW to provide 100,000 Btu's of heat. It is no wonder why they are popular! Many who have a oil burner find that 7 KW of heat pump power is less expensive than buying a gallon of fuel oil at about $5 in America. You can pay for the heat pump in one winter, just using it for 5 of the 6 months, and you hate to run that oil boiler on the days less than 0F outside, when the heat pump is not working as well at keeping the place warm.
Ive installed 4 separate systems in my home for primary heating and cooling.. its 3300 sq ft and they are the best. I did Mitsubishi Hyper Heat and LG Red systems those are -15f .
My advice is to clean the head unit every six months. I have been installing and using minis for a decade in remodels, new construction, and rentals. They are great! Keeps the area a constant temp and humidity unlike traditional units that kick in and off making the area temps vary constantly. If you do not clean them though you will be faced with a nightmare!!! I installed a Gree unit in an uninsulated room about 8 years ago. Just hooked the lines up and released the refrigerant. It had to run constantly for all these years and has never stopped working! Hell if a deal.
@@Grainsauce Gree makes many of the rebranded names on the market, but Gree is the actual manufacturer so I have always chosen Gree units like the other guy said.
May I ask you a question? What exactly are we pulling a vacuum on. The evaporator and copper lines? From the factory, is the pre-charged 410a in the condensor until you let it out to the system? Thanks
Not that it really matters that much, but technically you need a EPA 608 Type 1 to install minisplits. No worry, because the test is open-book and very easy. You can test free on Skill Cat, or Esco has them for $25. It's worth getting, because now you can legally buy refrigerant and there shouldn't be any warranty issues. Many states don't even have a 'HVAC' license, with the EPA 608 Type 1 and Type 2 (both free on Skill Cat) and the insurance/business you already have, you could get into installing these for customers.
I know absolutely nothing about HVAC. What I do know is those mini splits are extremely durable. When I was in Iraq all the little metal containers we lived in had mini splits. Those things ran no matter what. If they had power to them they worked. Sand storms, 115+° temps, and running 24/7.
I just mounted and wired 3 systems from Gree. Looks like the same unit just branded differently. One 240V dual zone 18,000BTU and one 120V single zone 12,000BTU in the house, and another 120V single zone 12,000BTU in the garage. I'm having an HVAC guy check over everything and give it the seal of approval then pressure test and charge with refrigerant.
@@TheHandyman1 Makes sense why it looked the same then. The two 9,000BTU air handlers did as a special bundle. The other two I had to buy wifi adapters separately.
If you do this again harbor freight sells 3/8" drive crows foot ratchet ends. This can be used with a normal 3/8" automotive torque wrench as long as you have the crows foot on in line with the wrench handle. Cheap open end torque wrench. If you didn't have an automotive torque wrench the auto part stores will lend you one :)
I recommend using the quick connect system. There are real seals inside and for a little bucks more you even get them prefilled. So no need for the vacuum pump.
Many rental condos in Hawaii built in 60s-90s without central AC now have an upgraded mini-split systems. Much preferable to the old window shaker style ACs.
Great show Handy, I’ve installed a mini split in office above garage. Worked great. I like those units. Fortunate for me I had a chimp on hand for support.
You will be fine with 7 inches off exterior wall for the condensing unit. Usually we do 6 inches minimum in HVACR, and I've installed 3-4 ton units that way, works no problem.
Since the external unit is so close to soil and dust you may want to clean the radiator regularly from inside out using low pressure water hose. It may keep your unit from overheating.
To get a decent set of fieldpiece equipment, with the vacuum meter, motor, manifold, recharge weight scale, and adapters, it's roughly $2,500. Or you can buy a mechanical gauge with a vacuum pump kit for about $100-150.. I'm with you handyman, besides, you'll see AC techs charge $150 for a capacitor change that you can find online for $15 or less.
@@CustomWeldingandFab yeah like that 150K$ superduty + trailer + bass boat you signed for right out of trade school... cmon man, hvac is a racket just like auto mechanics.
Question: It's my understanding the the charging vent has a one way Schrader valve in it, and those are prone to letting in a small gulp of air when disconnecting the vacuum lines. Because of this many people would rather release refrigerant (pressurize the line) than to let moist air into the system when disconnecting the gauges. So, why not when disconnecting the gauge from the charging vent, why not disconnect the blue hose from the gauge so the small gulp of air that rushes into the lines is from the vacuumed line. Or even open the gauge valve and disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump?
I recently retired and moved to Florida, so I'm looking at one of these for my workshop here. While in Arizona, my employers had one installed in our "new" office space, done by a local HVAC company. Apparently, this was their first time dealing with one of these, and they "forgot" to install the insulation mentioned at 7:18 in the video. The result was condensation dripping all over my desk and computer - I was not a happy camper!!
Fun fact that little pss noise has a term, it is called "de minimis". Specialty valves do that to release only a slight of refrigerant into the atmosphere, which as we all know is what destroys our ozone layer. Hence why some refrigerants like R22 are banned, and can be collected and turned in for money, and then sent off to be destroyed.
I've put in a dozen of these and I'm not an HVAC tech the one thing I have found is I like to use the flare ceiling compound on all the flare connections it's like a sticky glue substance
Any time my AC guys do a repair, we have to wait for the compressor start up too. They say it's a protective feature, so when ever power is shut off, there is a built in 5 minute delay before the compressor starts. I imagine this must be the same case with your unit.
Found your channel recently. Sometime I like to pass the time by watching how other "jack of all trades" handymen such as yourself approach different installations and repairs compared to myself. I like your style. However - 240v. I am prepared to die on this hill for absolutely no reason at all.
You should put an I log on the back of the flyer. Just FYI also you can use it on the threads to help torque down the larger connectors on bigger units.
15:10 SUPER HELPFUL how to properly use Nylog!! (im just wondering if you use it differently on the DIY kit lines? "the mating surfaces" not the threads.
I find I’m remaking about more than half of the factory flares. Also for some reason it’s stained in my head that the outdoor “unit” should be 12-16” away from the outside wall. Still green here!
The 5" difference of deficit to the wall will lower your cooling efficiency by " a percentage " (small in your geographical area, more noticeable in Southern States where 115 degrees is a normal day.) .... mainly affects the cooling of the compressor and coil.
Since the condenser unit is elevated with the brackets, the required clearance is less with the other installation manuals I've looked at. I need to learn how to add a 240V circuit though and manage that wiring for the first time.
Don’t suggest leaving the lineset looped at the outside unit. That’ll trap the compressor oil over time and prevent proper lubrication of the compressor. Also not being licensed in hvac can void any warranty on system when registered online. When pulling a vacuum, micron gauge should be used to ensure the system is pulled down to minimum 500 microns or below.
@@Wiwiw1995 A vertical loop is in no way the equivalent of an oil trap. Closest thing a loop could come to being a trap it would have to be horizontal with 3 to 5 inches of height differential between one side and the other which would allow to still lift to get through the line set.
@@Wiwiw1995 you are 100% right it will trap the oil in the literal sense but that is not the point of on oil trap. The point is to moderate the oil returning to the compressor not to starve the compressor of oil entirely. A loop like that none of the oil will get through to properly lube the compressor.
Mounting the unit closer to the wall is not all that bad. You will still get a lot of air flow into the unit, but still it is better to have more than 2 feet! IT is much better to run the vacuum pump more than 1 hour. Perhaps while waiting a very small amount of air can leak in, so better to run it about 5 more minutes after checking for leaks. Then shut off the line, and open the allen wrench for about 5 seconds to reach about 10 PSI. Then you can disconnect your gauges, and not allow any refrigerant in or out of the lines. Once there is about 30 PSI in the lines, shut the allen again, and then check for leaks with soap bubbles. That is why I always wait to cover the indoor unit with insulation until after the leak check. The two units I installed recently, I put the lines out the back of the unit, where the flare fitting was outdoors. There is a 5 minute time delay on most units after the power is restored. Then it should start working. Most units that I work on run about 120 PSI for a R-410 unit in the cooling mode and about 250 to 300 PSI in the heating mode. Remember while in the heating mode, it will sometimes go into defrost, and blow a little cold air for about 3-8 minutes, and you might hear a Swoosh, as the reversing valve changes to the cooling mode for the defrost to happen. I had a customer new to heat pumps pay my company $175 to discover this is a normal sound. Nothing was wrong with their heat pump, it just makes a swoosh sound every 90 minutes of run time.
It will work but it will not be as efficient at cooling the refrigerant in the outdoor coil. In any regular AC units, they need 18 to 22 inches of clearance. Far more than the Mini-splits.
I believe the clearance states something along the lines of X inches unless mounted on a wall mount as you have it... then it is a shorter distance. I've only illegally installed 4 of these units... so I may not have any idea what I'm talking about.
New units come with thicker replacement brass fittings to replace original thinner fittings. Thinner fittings are known to crack. Flatting tool should be elliptical style to insure smooth flared face.
Great video! Would definitely like to see future install like you mentioned, for your rental property, friend's workshop or a client looking for mini split install. Have you looked into other brands like Mr Cool, Pioneer, Gree, Ductless Aire (Home depot brand)? before going with Tosot. Again awesome video!
Instead of using gauges (and I know they’re not much and this is not the best idea) could you open the low side and the crack the high side until Freon spits out the low side thus evacuations all the atmospheric air and leaving a charged system ?
Better yet is a flare crows foot, which gives you more points of contact on the nut. Since for flares the wrench just needs to clear the pipe (not the entire nut), these help prevent rounding.
I enjoyed your video. Twas good. I have a 9000 BTU unit and have it set to 61 degrees. The air coming out of vent will get no cooler than 60 degrees. A laser temp check of the condenser range is 47-54 degrees low side pressure is 120, total amps is 3.0A outside temp is 80 degrees. I would like to know if this unit should produce an air temperature lower than 60 degrees or is that normal? Thanks
Just using a vacuum without pressure testing with nitrogen will work, but if you do have leaks you will be sucking hot humid air into the system. I really wouldn’t recommend skipping the nitrogen step.
Since you are worried about the fittings leaking I would have left it on vacuum for a few hours and watch for it to stabilize. If it leaks down to much its leaking. Digital vacuum gauge would be best. More than likely you good if ya snugged them up well.
Agree on the digital gauges. I've had leaks that were so small bubble juice would not show anything nor would an analog gauge. A digital gauge will show a tenth of a pound change as soon as it happens, which will be pretty quick
My house is all electric, I have electric baseboard heaters, so I have no duct work, and have to put in and take out at least 3 window units every year. I have been looking at these for years with a larger unit for 4-5 indoor units, or 2 separate outside units.
Small line, liquid line. Larger one, vapor line. Torque the fittings, pretty important. Nylog sealant on fittings every time. Important. Most homeowners won't have access to refrigerant if lost. FYI.
Small line not a true liquid line as the metering device is in the condenser not the evaporator. It is a low pressure vapor prior to the evaporator. This is biggest reason they do not take a large amount of refrigerant as well as why if you have to add extra refrigerant line length it doesn’t take much to top off due to the entire line set leaving and returning to the condenser is entirely gas and no liquid.
Hey man, great video. How the heck do you have a rental property rent for 3500 dollars/mo with no ac!?! Also, how big is your shop (sorry if I missed where you said that) and I think you said that's a 12k BTU system? Thanks.
Thank you for this. Where I live there is a drought, and I’d like to know the best way to collect the condensation, as I understand a mini split does put out a lot of water. I have lots of plants that need water.
If you are going to install more hvac equipment, invest some money to get vacuum rated hoses, vacuum rated core tool and a micron gauge. You did good though!
United States Of America
Merica!
Also, as a professional HVAC tech. Nice work 👍
Btw, a micron gauge will tell you best if you have a leak or not. But unless you plan on going professional, i dont recommend buying a bunch of tools you'll use once lol
Also i never use any sealant. Didnt even know that was a thing 😅
‘Murica!
MERCIA 😏🤙🙌
@@samuelkrakow859 for any and all residential systems, 750 microns is all that you need. Triple vac my ass. I do this 60+ hours a week in SW FL 🤣
@@samuelkrakow859 i dont think so dude 🤣 i dont know what you work on, but 500 microns is literally the most that you need, even in light commercial. You're talking out of your ass. Maybe you should ask the people who make the fucking units before you spread your bs lies on the internet 🤡👍 i take these classes regularly to learn the new crap that comes out every year. Sheet metal? So you do duct work. Good for you installer
Just another tip when you are going from vacuum to charging the line set and indoor head. Open the high side opposite (top) side of your gauge vacuum connection first with allen key very very slowly until you just see 5 psi on the gauges. Then close the port with allen key. Now remove the gauge line from the Schrader fitting and then fully open both pump valves. You will only lose a very small amount of refrigerant this way. And don't forget to Nylog the cap fittings as it is typical for gas to sneak by the o-rings in the valves. Good Job!
I've installed many of these here in Tokyo many many of them.
You did everything right, not to my standard, I use some different tools but still very good.
We don't use the nitrogen pressure test for basic mini-splits here with only the two or I guess four joints, but on larger installs we do, but for basic mini-splits like that no one does the pressure test. To test the joint inside I prop the bottom of the evaporator unit (Inside on the wall) off the wall by about 4 inches then spray the leak test stuff that will bubble, when I get no bubbles I then wrap the joint up and put the unit back down on the wall.
Mini-splits rock they make up maybe 80% or more of home installs.
Cheers from Tokyo!
Stu
Great tip. If I can ask you: Once ive connected the linesets together (to the evaporator lines but not yet to the condenser) can I still disconnect them if I need to flip them around so the bends go in the direction I want? I'm having a hard time making the bend to the condenser and it would help if I could just disconnect and reconnect the lineset from the evaporator. Note: The lineset is pre-charged with refrigerant and use quick-connect (male\female) adapters that you screw together and torque.
@@SouthOfDodge I'm sorry I've never worked with precharged linesso I don't know how that works.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge from another country!
How would you say the reliablity and life is of these units, same as Mr cool brands or any other cheaper brands?
@@Grainsauce if you are asking me I'd say you get what you pay for. I do my very best to only use the Made in Japan Daikin brand, but that is not always possible. How long they last depends on a lot of things; location, are they just sitting up on a rooftop exposed to sun, wind rain etc 24/7..? Is the unit correctly sized for the job? Too many people buy the cheaper unit and it's actually too small for the cooling they want, then they have to run it full blast all the time to work right, this wears out units early. Is it cleaned? I like to clean my units inside and out every two years, if the unit is in a place like a restaurant for the kitchen then once a year, the filter needs to be cleaned twice a year at least.
If the unit is maintained, the filter is cleaned and the size is correct as well as it being installed correctly they should last 10 years, but I've got units that were installed in 2001 and they still work fine, and they get used every day in the summer time.
Buy better quality units, saving $100 or more on the purchase price might cost you in the long run, IMHO.
Sorry if that was more than you wanted to know.
Cheers from Tokyo!
I’ve been a female handywoman working alone since 2007. First of all you are making me want my own workshop. Second I plan to install some mini splits - I loved these when I lived in paraguay, South America.
These Split AC units are great for server rooms and computer labs in small to midsize businesses. I've seen them used there a lot. Relatively easy, inexpensive way to get a dedicated cooling system into a room you plan on throwing a bunch of tech stuff into.
They are amazing in your general living area. They can heat and cool up to 500 square feet. So put one in your main living area and shut the big units off.
It was good to mention that you should NOT disconnect the gauge set while the line set is under a vacuum but you really don't need to fully release the refrigerant before removing it either. In the future, all you really need to do is open one of the valves while watching the low pressure gauge and as soon as goes to a positive pressure (like 5 or 10 pounds) and then close the valve. Then you can safely remove the gauge set without letting outside air into the line set and if for some reason you have some difficulty removing the set from the fitting, you will not lose your charge. After you remove the gauge set, then you can fully open the valves and check for leaks.
That's a great tip. Thanks
tombonini7393, the tech who installed mine did the vacuum and all was good but he didnt open the line so the pressure go to positive. He disconnected the line quickly and then fully open the line. So I have a little air sucked back into my system? Please reply
@@VMH. Unless he was using a low loss line set, there is no doubt that some air was sucked into the system and even with one, it is still likely. The real issue is how much. If the system is operating properly then I wouldn't worry too much about it but make sure to keep record of who installed the unit in case of a premature failure. The system can handle a tiny amount of outside air without causing any real issues but the trick is to do everything reasonable to minimize or eliminate it from getting in and causing issues now and further down the road. Removing the gauge set while under vacuum is not one of those ways.
You inspired me I'm 25 and work a full time job installing doors and windows I now have been doing my business for over year I took on the thumbtack app I am always full of work and I have so many repeate customers I'm going full time now due to all you have shared I made over 10k this month just on side jobs doing plumbing flooring trim work and replacing easy stuff just wanted to say thank you !
Good to know I’m not the only one who keeps every scrap of wood, tile & pretty much anything that I can use & use it I do!
I have to convince my wife first. Before I want to keep something 😟. Yeah Laugh at me
Great job on the install 👏 I am a technician for hvacr and I also do wholesale distribution. I work around this stuff everyday all day. The only thing I recommend for you to not have issues later on is the coiled up linset outside at condenser cannot be coiled due to oil trapping in the coiled lineset. You will not have adequate oil return to the compressor. You should cut excess off and re-flare the ends. Great video though
Aren't most of these systems come fully charged of refrigerant? Wouldn't that mess up the lines if you cut them and reflare the copper?
Instead of coiling vertically, can you coil them horizontally to prevent this oil trapping. Most people will not have the tools or the aspiration to cut and flare the lines.
I believe that at least some systems will have a minimum line length. In the case of Senville with the 16 ft lines, they say you should have a minimum of 10 ft length.
@@5CeN5CaLi9 Yes, most mini split system come with refrigerant.
You are fine cutting copper line set to your needs and flare it again. Most technicians don't like the factory flaring and they cut pipe on both ends and flare them. The line sets come in 16ft or 25ft and many times is hard to install units using those distances and they must be cut to size.
@@bubblehead7680 Senville also has 25ft line sets.
As an HVAC tech, thank you for pulling a vacuum! I've installed tons of mini splits, they're great systems, still hate them. for those of you who don't know, any line set longer than 25 feet needs added refrigerant which can only be done (in the US) by a licensed tech.
@@austrianemotionalman Mail the empty cans to Greta Fun-berg. 🤭
You mean the EPA class 1? The $20 open book online coarse that covers small appliances? Hardest part about this sort of HVAC is that local suppliers wont sell to you.
@@ryanmmax I kno the automotive 608 is open book, when I passed the 608 universal it wasn't open book
@@dandaman2226 Pretty sure its only open book if all your after is a class 1. Im just bitter because I have to buy my neighbor a Case of beer to get a capacitor instead of just going to the local supply house for a dumb capacitor. (or wait 3 days for shipping when its 100 degrees out). These certifications are meant to protect the homeowner/DIYer/environment not the tradesman's paycheck.
@@droolbunnyxo9565 So that she can play with them? Autism style? ;-)
We use these units in Norway. We call them "heat pump" because we need the heat more than the AC part. They are very common, and is the "bread and butter" economic heating solution here. We have no ducts, and they still work beautifully for both heat and cooling. Nothing to worry about :)
My in-laws just installed a 36k BTU unit in their house to replace the main outdated unit. They have four indoor units strategically placed and it does an awesome job. Cut their power bill too!
Tip: Borrow the pump and gauges from O'reilley's. Especially for a single project in one afternoon.
Great tip
I had these Tosots installed in my house in 2017, use both the cooling and heating and they really are amazing and energy conserving, I've had no problems yet considering they're in use almost every day. Good choice in Tosot. 👍
I’m a hvac tech. Good job. Clean install. I would of pressure tested with nitrogen.
As an hvac technician I’m adopting your explanation for my customers.
Great video, Handyman. These units aren’t just air conditioners, they’re heat pumps. Very popular here in Canada. They provide heating for a much lower cost than competing technologies. Potentially a nice business line for you.
Where do you live in Canada. I am in Edmonton. Wondering how can i utilize the split a/c you mentioned.
got the Adjustable wrench out like a true HVAC tech. I've installed 1000's of these. and you can Coil the line sets unlike most of these guys will tell you.. just make sure your horizontal it twice the length of your vertical and it cant be a trap.. even on Heat Recovery units used commercially which is a lot more sensitive than a simple mini split install. great job (btw the Nylog blue is most in important on the back of the flare as it stop friction from preventing you from getting the proper torch on the flare nut its self)
nylog on the friction surfaces changes the torque measure though
I am researching installing my own mini split, and have watched several videos. Nobody, thus far, after watching 7 videos, have stated that one can "borrow" the vacuum and AC gauges from an auto parts store. -- you just leave $150 deposit and you get it back once you return the item(s). The only thing left to buy is the flange set, and the gauge "mini" connection. It's always best to not have extra length on the pipes, and God forbid you coil them in the vertical plane!
Don't borrow those. Last set I borrowed I had to replace all the o rings. And the pump just failed.
Also beware that in some areas the AC companies will not service a DYI install. They will only service something they installed. My unit is trash. Never came on. No help from TOSOT. I have to now throw it out.
@@cb-gz1vl You're choosing to throw it out. If it was dead on arrival, then you can return it within 30 days. If it's beyond that, they can you can either find an A/C guy who will figure out what's wrong with it, or you can open it up and follow the pixies with a tester until you figure out why it doesn't come on. If you're just throwing it out, then you have more disposable cash than I do.
I also came here to recommending the "free rental" from auto parts stores. I've generally had better luck with Auto Zone than the other stores. A gauge set and vacuum pump are used so infrequently by most people that it makes sense to at least try it before buying your own.
I’m an hvac technician myself, pulling the vacuum to see you have leak at either indoor, or outdoor is okay, but I would prefer to use nitrogen, put at least 250-300 psi, take some big blue spray bubbles check for leaks around the flair joints, and if there’s no bubbling then it’s good. I wouldn’t pop the values unless I’m 100% sure I have no leaks.
If I called an HVAC tech to test my system after I DIYd it - would that irritate the tech? Is that like taking a steak to a restaurant and asking them to cook it?
@@dougsnavely847 not really we gets an easy pay day if you did it right should only take about an hour to check. If not then you can pay us to fix it lol. Wanted to add to the nitrogen check though, usually I’ll check for leaks with blue spray as well as let it sit for about 30 min with 200+ psi and see if it drops too much. About 5/8 psi drop is ok but it’s usually pretty easy to see a leak if you keep your eyes on it
Sometimes, we are always trying to protect the trade. But if the install looks good and I feel comfortable with it I will provide the customer with my services.
-Nitro Purge
-Nitro Test
-Vacumm (down to 200Microns or less with the valve closed and the pump off)
-Added Charge (if needed)
-Perform System Start Up
But, I will not give them a break in the cost. There is a reason why we are in the trade and they are not. The knowledge and experience that we bring to the table have a cost....
Lastly, I will not take responsibility for any warranty or rebates.
Agreed... using the refrigerant to confirm at pressure there are no leaks is a tad risky. If there is a leak, and slightly increasing torque on the flare nut does not solve it, then the situation is getting dire.
I also prefer proper leak solution vs soapy water. Soapy water does not always show small leaks.
@@dougsnavely847 Yes, he will charge you more and find any excuse to tell you did something wrong and that he has to re-do it or do new flares, etc. And he won't warranty his work if leaks in the future. Good luck finding a honest ac company.
They charge $2000 to $4000 for labor intalling a mini split and takes them 1-2 hours. Easy money for them.
Excellent video! Thank you. I see a lot of homes (with central air already) add these in a second floor master bedroom.
Good job, 37 degree evap temp is good. Guessing the unit uses R410a if you are seeing 100 psig suction pressure
Nice summary. I would not skip the nitrogen pressure test. And pull the vacuum with a micron gauge. It’s just insurance. Most mini splits fail at the flare fittings.
The factory flare nuts on my unit were cheap cast nuts that crow’s foot torque wrenches won’t fit. Yellowjacket makes an adjustable wrench torque wrench that would be better but it sure is pricey.
Your installation should be great! Enjoy!
I'd invest in a Micron Guage and pull a correct deeper vacuum. Then pressurize the line set with nitrogen, and hope it holds over night. It being your personal unit you can wait 1 more day without cooling 😎.
I've also seen people use these for isolating basements from central air so you can have a loud theater/party room that is properly soundproofed.
one thing you want to keep an eye on is cleaning the cylinder fan once a year (this is actually a good business if these are popular in your area, takes like 30 minutes to clean and you can charge an easy 100$) mold tends to build up in there, also the drip pan can get clogged with mold so water will drip out of the head instead of out the tube. other than that, these things are fantastic
I've heard this too. Clogs up like an ice maker water line on a refrigerator. But if you do a little occasional light maintenance, all is good.
So do you run a bleach & water solution through to clean it out?
I'm going to be installing a mini split here shortly in my garage. My only thing that stood out to me on your install is at at 16:48 you have the line set at a vertical loop. Everything I've read in terms of Mitsubishi/Daikin...etc. state that you should not have vertical loop in the lineset due to the oil then possible resting at the lowest point and not being properly circulated within the system. I plan on getting longer lineset that what is needed just incase due to my install and then cut the end off and flare them so that I can have no excess lines and it's a fresh flare that's good. I've read many many videos where the factory flared ends aren't great, and for the $100 tool to make new flares it's worth piece of mind that you don't get a leak later on due to the machine that they used not properly flaring it.
I just had a quote since we are getting our entire house HVAC systems replaced (2 furnaces and two ACs) and said how much for a mini split in the garage? They came back at me and said we can install one for $8k. I'm like cool thanks. Told my wife, no way in hell I'm spending $8k for a mini split in the garage when ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL these videos are showing how easy it is to install. The HARDEST part for me is going to be drilling the side exterior wall through the vinyl siding...lol. Who likes to drill huge holes in their house?! That's the most nerve wracking thing to me. The inside unit just as you said looks like you are hanging a microwave. No different than hanging a tv on the wall and I literally just did that for a friend over the weekend.
I can't wait to have a cool garage in the summer and warm garage in the winter time. Good video. I like that it was a DIY and not some paid manufacture's video.
The open end wrench for your torque wrench is called a Crow's Foot. Nice job Handyman! Really enjoy your videos and appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience!
It’s been a while since I’ve UTubed. I immediately recognized your voice, but buddy, YOU’VE AGED.
Great video and glad you recognized the “qualified” HVAC people. I’ve had to fire a few
i did residential for a while and now i work on grocery stores but grinned like a school girl when you brought out that nylog lmao that stuff is great.
edit: also you explained the proper way to apply it. insane how many people dont get it
bonus bonus edit: if you were to get real fancy with it, you could nylog your gauges to ensure they are super tight for pulling a vacuum
Handyman, just make sure you do yearly maintenance on the units, or trouble will eventually follow, usually ends up costing mor then units themselves.
Cleaning and flushing yearly is what most brands recommend, and if knowledgeable…..don’t need to call hvac tech out to do, can do yourself.
Glad have AC now and staying cool. Like your shop vids, work vids…..all dang it, like all your vids😊
Cheers✌🏻
That's what i'm talking about, now you are speaking my language...lol I just got my EPA 608 Universal certification two months ago here in Florida and let me tell you, I am a hot commodity now to all my family and friends...😊
In parts of Canada where electric baseboard heat is common, mini-split heatpumps have been promoted as a easy way to lower your heating costs.
A heat pump can collect and warm your house with 100,000 Btu's while consuming about 5-7 KW of power. The electric heaters will consume about 30 KW to provide 100,000 Btu's of heat. It is no wonder why they are popular! Many who have a oil burner find that 7 KW of heat pump power is less expensive than buying a gallon of fuel oil at about $5 in America. You can pay for the heat pump in one winter, just using it for 5 of the 6 months, and you hate to run that oil boiler on the days less than 0F outside, when the heat pump is not working as well at keeping the place warm.
Ive installed 4 separate systems in my home for primary heating and cooling.. its 3300 sq ft and they are the best. I did Mitsubishi Hyper Heat and LG Red systems those are -15f .
Thank you for this DIY video! This is the typical A/C set up that they use in Hawaii. 🤙🏼
I'll be there in a few weeks.
@@TheHandyman1Awesome! Hope you have a safe trip. 🤙🏼
My advice is to clean the head unit every six months. I have been installing and using minis for a decade in remodels, new construction, and rentals. They are great! Keeps the area a constant temp and humidity unlike traditional units that kick in and off making the area temps vary constantly. If you do not clean them though you will be faced with a nightmare!!!
I installed a Gree unit in an uninsulated room about 8 years ago. Just hooked the lines up and released the refrigerant. It had to run constantly for all these years and has never stopped working! Hell if a deal.
Fun fact Mr Cool units are rebranded Gree units supposedly
@@Grainsauce Gree makes many of the rebranded names on the market, but Gree is the actual manufacturer so I have always chosen Gree units like the other guy said.
certified universal HVAC here. Well done, I don't care what anybody else says!
Thank you.
May I ask you a question? What exactly are we pulling a vacuum on. The evaporator and copper lines? From the factory, is the pre-charged 410a in the condensor until you let it out to the system? Thanks
Not that it really matters that much, but technically you need a EPA 608 Type 1 to install minisplits. No worry, because the test is open-book and very easy. You can test free on Skill Cat, or Esco has them for $25. It's worth getting, because now you can legally buy refrigerant and there shouldn't be any warranty issues. Many states don't even have a 'HVAC' license, with the EPA 608 Type 1 and Type 2 (both free on Skill Cat) and the insurance/business you already have, you could get into installing these for customers.
What states don’t require Hvac license?
I know absolutely nothing about HVAC. What I do know is those mini splits are extremely durable. When I was in Iraq all the little metal containers we lived in had mini splits. Those things ran no matter what. If they had power to them they worked. Sand storms, 115+° temps, and running 24/7.
Appreciate you!
same in Afghanistan!
I just mounted and wired 3 systems from Gree. Looks like the same unit just branded differently.
One 240V dual zone 18,000BTU and one 120V single zone 12,000BTU in the house, and another 120V single zone 12,000BTU in the garage.
I'm having an HVAC guy check over everything and give it the seal of approval then pressure test and charge with refrigerant.
Gree makes Tosot. Did yours come ready with wifi?
@@TheHandyman1 Makes sense why it looked the same then.
The two 9,000BTU air handlers did as a special bundle. The other two I had to buy wifi adapters separately.
How did you like the Gree app. How was the signal strength with the wifi connection to the units.
We just installed a mini-split. When you are putting the unit on a wall bracket, you only need 3-4" between the outer wall and the back of your unit.
These are great units because they can be used in so many different ways from banquet halls to homes
If you do this again harbor freight sells 3/8" drive crows foot ratchet ends. This can be used with a normal 3/8" automotive torque wrench as long as you have the crows foot on in line with the wrench handle. Cheap open end torque wrench. If you didn't have an automotive torque wrench the auto part stores will lend you one :)
I will pick up a set. Thanks.
I recommend using the quick connect system. There are real seals inside and for a little bucks more you even get them prefilled. So no need for the vacuum pump.
Like Mr Cool? So you can buy a line set prefilled ready to go?
@@patrickmelson4745 I could. But Europe, so cannot speak for US.
Many rental condos in Hawaii built in 60s-90s without central AC now have an upgraded mini-split systems. Much preferable to the old window shaker style ACs.
Great show Handy, I’ve installed a mini split in office above garage. Worked great. I like those units. Fortunate for me I had a chimp on hand for support.
🐒🐒
You will be fine with 7 inches off exterior wall for the condensing unit. Usually we do 6 inches minimum in HVACR, and I've installed 3-4 ton units that way, works no problem.
I figured this was easy to install but actually seeing the process helps even more. Thanks.
Since the external unit is so close to soil and dust you may want to clean the radiator regularly from inside out using low pressure water hose. It may keep your unit from overheating.
That was a great video. Those Minis are versatile and not too expensive
This one is under $1,000
@@TheHandyman1 I just ordered a blue caulk gun shirt about 10 mins ago. I'm stoked! Lol
Its all I wear these days. I get stopped all them time from people asking where I got it.
To get a decent set of fieldpiece equipment, with the vacuum meter, motor, manifold, recharge weight scale, and adapters, it's roughly $2,500. Or you can buy a mechanical gauge with a vacuum pump kit for about $100-150.. I'm with you handyman, besides, you'll see AC techs charge $150 for a capacitor change that you can find online for $15 or less.
There are a lot more costs than just the capacitor that goes into running a business.
@@CustomWeldingandFab yeah like that 150K$ superduty + trailer + bass boat you signed for right out of trade school... cmon man, hvac is a racket just like auto mechanics.
Give me a break, I was just charged 200 bucks (220 with tax) for a 1 pound of 410a. Just the 410, not counting service charge. That's crazy.
@@robertgregory2618 that’s ridiculous price, I’d shop for a new contractor
Question: It's my understanding the the charging vent has a one way Schrader valve in it, and those are prone to letting in a small gulp of air when disconnecting the vacuum lines.
Because of this many people would rather release refrigerant (pressurize the line) than to let moist air into the system when disconnecting the gauges.
So, why not when disconnecting the gauge from the charging vent, why not disconnect the blue hose from the gauge so the small gulp of air that rushes into the lines is from the vacuumed line. Or even open the gauge valve and disconnect the yellow line from the vacuum pump?
I recently retired and moved to Florida, so I'm looking at one of these for my workshop here. While in Arizona, my employers had one installed in our "new" office space, done by a local HVAC company. Apparently, this was their first time dealing with one of these, and they "forgot" to install the insulation mentioned at 7:18 in the video. The result was condensation dripping all over my desk and computer - I was not a happy camper!!
Dont blow your next TV opportunity Handyman!
I’ve done one now too. My pro tip: I’d wear a glove while unscrewing the fitting after releasing the refrigerant. It gets real cold real fast!
Brilliant work and thanks for sharing this with us take care
Fun fact that little pss noise has a term, it is called "de minimis". Specialty valves do that to release only a slight of refrigerant into the atmosphere, which as we all know is what destroys our ozone layer. Hence why some refrigerants like R22 are banned, and can be collected and turned in for money, and then sent off to be destroyed.
I've put in a dozen of these and I'm not an HVAC tech the one thing I have found is I like to use the flare ceiling compound on all the flare connections it's like a sticky glue substance
Doh just saw you point this out on outdoor unit
I wasn't going to call you out for not watching the video. Glad to see you stuck around to the end.
Any time my AC guys do a repair, we have to wait for the compressor start up too. They say it's a protective feature, so when ever power is shut off, there is a built in 5 minute delay before the compressor starts. I imagine this must be the same case with your unit.
Oh yeah, iv got a 18k in my garage. By far my favorite appliance.
Your cord management in your shop is steller. Nice install.
I think installing drywall and rockwool insulation first would have been a good idea....
Love this channel, you guys a extremely knowledgeable and friendly
Found your channel recently. Sometime I like to pass the time by watching how other "jack of all trades" handymen such as yourself approach different installations and repairs compared to myself. I like your style. However - 240v. I am prepared to die on this hill for absolutely no reason at all.
You should put an I log on the back of the flyer. Just FYI also you can use it on the threads to help torque down the larger connectors on bigger units.
15:10 SUPER HELPFUL how to properly use Nylog!! (im just wondering if you use it differently on the DIY kit lines? "the mating surfaces" not the threads.
same as a brakeline, Lost out on a job like this, Wish i knew this video was here.
@AWD40 PLEASE give this man a sponsorship!!!!
you dont hear it work more likely inverter technology on the compressor. good thing the US is slowly taking on more of these.
I find I’m remaking about more than half of the factory flares. Also for some reason it’s stained in my head that the outdoor “unit” should be 12-16” away from the outside wall. Still green here!
The 5" difference of deficit to the wall will lower your cooling efficiency by " a percentage " (small in your geographical area, more noticeable in Southern States where 115 degrees is a normal day.) .... mainly affects the cooling of the compressor and coil.
Since the condenser unit is elevated with the brackets, the required clearance is less with the other installation manuals I've looked at. I need to learn how to add a 240V circuit though and manage that wiring for the first time.
Don’t suggest leaving the lineset looped at the outside unit. That’ll trap the compressor oil over time and prevent proper lubrication of the compressor. Also not being licensed in hvac can void any warranty on system when registered online. When pulling a vacuum, micron gauge should be used to ensure the system is pulled down to minimum 500 microns or below.
Most manufacturers recommend an oil trap. Oil traps on an inverter are not a problem
@@Wiwiw1995 A vertical loop is in no way the equivalent of an oil trap. Closest thing a loop could come to being a trap it would have to be horizontal with 3 to 5 inches of height differential between one side and the other which would allow to still lift to get through the line set.
@@Rob0243 a loop is 100 percent going to trap oil in it
@@Wiwiw1995 you are 100% right it will trap the oil in the literal sense but that is not the point of on oil trap. The point is to moderate the oil returning to the compressor not to starve the compressor of oil entirely. A loop like that none of the oil will get through to properly lube the compressor.
@@Rob0243 yeah. So I looked back at some of my pdf manuals and they say vibration loops. My b 😬
Mounting the unit closer to the wall is not all that bad. You will still get a lot of air flow into the unit, but still it is better to have more than 2 feet! IT is much better to run the vacuum pump more than 1 hour. Perhaps while waiting a very small amount of air can leak in, so better to run it about 5 more minutes after checking for leaks. Then shut off the line, and open the allen wrench for about 5 seconds to reach about 10 PSI. Then you can disconnect your gauges, and not allow any refrigerant in or out of the lines. Once there is about 30 PSI in the lines, shut the allen again, and then check for leaks with soap bubbles. That is why I always wait to cover the indoor unit with insulation until after the leak check. The two units I installed recently, I put the lines out the back of the unit, where the flare fitting was outdoors.
There is a 5 minute time delay on most units after the power is restored. Then it should start working.
Most units that I work on run about 120 PSI for a R-410 unit in the cooling mode and about 250 to 300 PSI in the heating mode.
Remember while in the heating mode, it will sometimes go into defrost, and blow a little cold air for about 3-8 minutes, and you might hear a Swoosh, as the reversing valve changes to the cooling mode for the defrost to happen. I had a customer new to heat pumps pay my company $175 to discover this is a normal sound. Nothing was wrong with their heat pump, it just makes a swoosh sound every 90 minutes of run time.
That extra wire it comes with is your whip that comes from the disconnect to your mini split condenser
It will work but it will not be as efficient at cooling the refrigerant in the outdoor coil. In any regular AC units, they need 18 to 22 inches of clearance. Far more than the Mini-splits.
Check out my complicated high-tech videos for all the technical specs of feeding fish
I believe the clearance states something along the lines of X inches unless mounted on a wall mount as you have it... then it is a shorter distance. I've only illegally installed 4 of these units... so I may not have any idea what I'm talking about.
New units come with thicker replacement brass fittings to replace original thinner fittings. Thinner fittings are known to crack. Flatting tool should be elliptical style to insure smooth flared face.
Great video! Would definitely like to see future install like you mentioned, for your rental property, friend's workshop or a client looking for mini split install. Have you looked into other brands like Mr Cool, Pioneer, Gree, Ductless Aire (Home depot brand)? before going with Tosot. Again awesome video!
Gree is Tosot. This one is extremely cheap and I wanted something to learn on.
Instead of using gauges (and I know they’re not much and this is not the best idea) could you open the low side and the crack the high side until Freon spits out the low side thus evacuations all the atmospheric air and leaving a charged system ?
Crows foot is what you need to use on a torque wrench to torque those fittings..
Better yet is a flare crows foot, which gives you more points of contact on the nut. Since for flares the wrench just needs to clear the pipe (not the entire nut), these help prevent rounding.
I just installed one of these systems. Mine said 12" off of the wall if putting the condenser on the ground 6" inches if mounted on the wall.
I enjoyed your video. Twas good.
I have a 9000 BTU unit and have it set to 61 degrees. The air coming out of vent will get no cooler than 60 degrees.
A laser temp check of the condenser range is 47-54 degrees low side pressure is 120, total amps is 3.0A outside temp is 80 degrees. I would like to know if this unit should produce an air temperature lower than 60 degrees or is that normal?
Thanks
Nice install Handyman. Contractors in my area would install this in July for around $18k
That's it? 😁🍺👍
Thats insanely expensive. We install 5 ton 20~ SEER infinity communicating inverter systems by carrier for that price lol
Normal price range I've seen is $3-6k for a single unit. It varies by area, quality and size of unit, etc.
You should show the gauges while the compressor is running. 37 sounds a little low but may be unit specific. I normally deal with fujitsu.
I can't stop looking at the ghost painting in the background. I'm trying to focus on your words but that dam 👻 ghost 😆
The reason we put nylog on the back side of the flare is not to bend out the copper when Tightening down do you spec
Just using a vacuum without pressure testing with nitrogen will work, but if you do have leaks you will be sucking hot humid air into the system. I really wouldn’t recommend skipping the nitrogen step.
If you have sight line to your breaker box most areas do not require the disconnect switch.
As long as there’s enough slack in the refrigerant lines, can you wait to hang the inside until you test that connection?
Since you are worried about the fittings leaking I would have left it on vacuum for a few hours and watch for it to stabilize. If it leaks down to much its leaking. Digital vacuum gauge would be best. More than likely you good if ya snugged them up well.
Agree on the digital gauges. I've had leaks that were so small bubble juice would not show anything nor would an analog gauge. A digital gauge will show a tenth of a pound change as soon as it happens, which will be pretty quick
My house is all electric, I have electric baseboard heaters, so I have no duct work, and have to put in and take out at least 3 window units every year. I have been looking at these for years with a larger unit for 4-5 indoor units, or 2 separate outside units.
37 degree air out? What was the air temp going in? These seem to put put colder air thank central AC unit.
Small line, liquid line. Larger one, vapor line. Torque the fittings, pretty important. Nylog sealant on fittings every time. Important. Most homeowners won't have access to refrigerant if lost. FYI.
Small line not a true liquid line as the metering device is in the condenser not the evaporator. It is a low pressure vapor prior to the evaporator. This is biggest reason they do not take a large amount of refrigerant as well as why if you have to add extra refrigerant line length it doesn’t take much to top off due to the entire line set leaving and returning to the condenser is entirely gas and no liquid.
Looks pretty good. Only thing with piping you created an oil trap.
Thanks. I’ve been looking into mini splits for a few rentals without AC.
Hey man, great video. How the heck do you have a rental property rent for 3500 dollars/mo with no ac!?! Also, how big is your shop (sorry if I missed where you said that) and I think you said that's a 12k BTU system? Thanks.
It costs big bucks to live in the city. The work shop is 20x30. This is 12k btu
They’re also very popular in recording studios, I have one in my control room
Thank you for this. Where I live there is a drought, and I’d like to know the best way to collect the condensation, as I understand a mini split does put out a lot of water. I have lots of plants that need water.
If you are going to install more hvac equipment, invest some money to get vacuum rated hoses, vacuum rated core tool and a micron gauge. You did good though!