@DIM Tips thx for kind words and best wishes on your diagnosis! BTW Not sure if S3 has external pack as well or not but I've had issues where external and internal packs lose connection and play havoc on charging. Especially if you ride them rough. Oftentimes even with just internal not the battery at fault .. is loose connects. Cheers!
My pleasure - glad was helpful. Check out other vids about 'waking up' batteries. There's a brass button on the control boards - some vids show hitting that to reset/wake BMS. I did not know that when I shot my vid. Best wishes on your fix!
Hey buddy, great video! Did you ever change the BMS from the other pack? Did it work? Do you have a video? I just opened mine and i believe my internal battery is dead and I'm about to purchase a new BMS. Just wanted to know if it works or not.
Thx Benjamin Sadly still on my to do list. I don't have total confidence in the cast-off boards that I currently have but will give it a go sometime and we'll see what happens! Hey ... post an update link or or comment on your fix would ya? Am interested to see how goes Best Rhys
I’ve had a couple that flash red where the blue light is. Usually means improper voltage. Only been able to fix one in that condition by connecting, dismounting etc.
Hi Indoor ... thanks for info! Question for you - I've been looking for a source to explain light flash error codes on these units - haven't found one and many forums are dead ends. Have you found a source that you could share? Many thanks
I still don't have ... Audi or Indoor you guys happen to know what "Code 19" actually means for sure? Another commenter has an issue with that error code. Cheers
"BMS standby, over-discharged, not hibernating yet" Hi @Consty Ekah - If you Google symptom above and add 'Ninebot' various sources cite error codes and meanings. I think you have a battery that has over- discharged. If these batteries are ridden hard and then put in a closet over winter for example - they continue to lose charge. Once they get below a certain threshold the BMS (battery mgmt system / circuitry on battery pack) starts to shut things down. If way too low battery goes into hibernation mode and you get no lights. Either way you would need to 'bump charge' the pack/cells to get back above this minimum charge threshhold. That process beyond my capabilities though!! Best wishes ... hope that helps a bit.
You mentioned that typically you find one half of the battery is dead. I think I have found this exact same condition on three internal batteries I just opened for a friend, all the same side. The 'bottom' side from B- will read 2-3v between connections (discharged but still potentially healthy), and the B+ side is almost perfectly zero on each cell (ruined cells), maybe one or two are in the mV range. Do you have any idea why this is? I have never heard of a battery failing like this. I suspect maybe something in the BMS is prone to failure and shorts or at least drains that side of the battery? I was expecting to be able to replace a few cells, but I don't think I can trust the BMS.
Hey Tim Bummer. 3 packs?! That 1/2 pack condition is perplexing and actually led to me mis-stating how the cells are configured in the pack in the video. Someone corrected me in comments which was appreciated. I think I said cells were configured 10S2P whereas they are actually 2P10S (or vice versa) I assumed that there were 2 stacks of 10 cells each stack all connected in series (boosting voltage to 40v ish) and then the 2 stacks connected in parallel creating what I thought were the two halves. From what I understand now there are actually subunits of 2 cells connected in parallel (4ish volts) These 10 pairs are stacked in series to boost voltage to 40ish volts. (Explanation above more for other readers as you probably know this already.) So... short answer (no pun intended) is nope I have not uncovered why this is the case. Your very well described condition above does agree with what I've found but I'm stumped. Bottom line I don't trust the boards at all and am just using the good half cells for salvage. Me no likey the 'hiss-smoke-boom-fire' in my wooden home. Thanks for reach out. Sorry I don't have anything more insightful. Best wishes on your projects!
@@fixitdad899 Thanks for the additional info! Yup I will probably just salvage the living cells. I'm just bummed that these packs seem so deeply flawed.
Hey my battery health is still good but I need to replace the connector on it because it's worn out doesn't stay connected so my scooter constantly switches between having the external pack and only using the onboard. I have found that you can buy the connector really cheap. How easy is it to remove just the connector?
@howcin Hi - thx for reach out. I've never replaced one myself unfortunately (fortunately) and am assuming you mean the connector inside the upright tube in with internal battery etc. That would mean having to remove tube - unscrewing end caps - gently pushing guts of tube out to reveal IC boards/wires/internal battery pack - replacing the part - putting it all back together. I think the trickiest bit would be desoldering/resoldering that jack/connector to IC board IF that is how it attaches. If part comes with lead wires/harness and just clips to board and jack/connector screws into a bracket then wayyyyy easier. Guess it depends on your patience and skills. My Dad always used to say "nothing is all that difficult ... some things just take more time" Sorry I have no specifics for you but best wishes on your fix. If you are handy with solder then can't be all that hard. Pls be safe!
The battery is rated at 36v 5100mAh. Assuming a 10s2p they have pretty poor cell mAh (2500) and could be improved by rebuilding with 3000+. I don't see an amperage rating. Anyone know?
Hi Emmett Yep ... It could well have been the case. I was an escooter battery rookie when I did that video. What I wish I had known then.. the function of the little brass button on the control board ... 'Reset' / 'Awaken' .... doh!!!! There's actually now a great video out there showing how you can drill (very carefully) into the packs just above that detente button so you can depress it without going to lengths I did. Lifelong learning has its moments! Have a good one sir! Thx for watching and commenting.
He's fantastic! I wish I was in the States for better access to him and his products. Alas ... up here in the great white north makes access to his stuff a bit more challenging eh?! Have a great wknd. At risk of sounding like a total Canuck ... I bought a Kevlar canoe yesterday ... no batteries required! Goin' paddling.
Can a second external battery be connected to the front of the ninebot e45d? So I had one internal and two external batteries? how can i connect together ?
If you are willing to charge batteries separately - probably is a way. You'd need to connect all 3 packs in parallel. Probably need to put T style connectors T40 T60 etc. onto packs to connect them. You would lose 'one connection' charging. Its beyond what I would take on personally but in theory possible I would think. Best wishes on it if you take it on. Be careful!! LI tricky and goes boom on occasion
Hi Dash.. I have a basic shop compass from Harbor Freight / Princess Auto. The ones that have two metal legs with pointy ends with thumb screw to adjust distance between the points. I just adjusted legs to the width of holes and gently twisted out the plug/cap. They (threaded caps) aren't really tightened in too tight...more just positioning. If you Tuck or Duck/t tape two long skinny bolts together would probably work. Maybe even elastic on chopsticks?! Good luck!
took mine to a shop for board replacement inside, and after i left the place less than a block i hit a bump too hard and something came loose and now wont stop beeping or work.
Ouch ... that sucks - these machines really don't have much in the way of suspension. Hard on the internals. Hopefully that shop was able to fix again. Best wishes. Ride well!
th-cam.com/video/bTMKUIi2EJY/w-d-xo.html Check from 4:10 to 6:30 (is in Chinese but good visual) Don't need special tool just a couple of pointy things and patience. Best wishes!
Anyone got a video of replacing the mosfet side? When bms connected its shorting out in one of the mosfets and causing the voltage drop + red flasing light
Hi E - Theoretically ... possibly. IF the electronics are all still good AND you are good with spot welding new cells AND cells are to proper specification - then should work but that's a lot of risk and work in my opinion. Spot welding is a tricky business unless you have correct equipment. Best wishes on your project if you attempt. Please let us know how goes. Thx for watching and commenting.
Hey there, have removed the whole pack from an ES2 and there is no blinking from the pack but with multimeter read out is 14,7 volts. Can't get the scooter to start the display or charge, simply to low voltage to charge it? But why no blinking you think?
Hey Per 15v out of pack is definitely not right or good. Should expect voltage of 40v plus when fully charged and I believe no lower than low 30's for 'discharged' state. Each of the 20 cells works between about 3.7 and 4.2v when healthy. I dont know the exact answer but could be your BMS board in battery has gone bad and your cells will no longer charge. Has scooter been 'dead' for a while? 15v is very low.
@@fixitdad899 yeah it was left over wintet by previous owner. But all solved now. Managed to bump the battery up again to around 27 volts and aftet that regular charger worked again. First battery showed nothing (not flashing) but after a little bumping it started first flashing red and a bit later went to normal blue flash state. 👍🙂
Hey... nicely done! Great information re: when lights kick in / red / blue. Question for you - how did you bump charge? Did you have to bypass BMS in battery pack (disassemble) or could you just go straight to the standard power out leads? Did you use a plug in external adjustable power supply? I have a bench top supply that I think maxes out at 30v. Can adjust current and voltage. You? Many thanks for any insight here.
so ... just how long can these batteries last before it's time to dump the scooter? Because my front tire lost most of its thread anyway so i'd rather not repair it.
Hard to say for certain - probably someone out there way more knowledgable than I who knows about how many charge cycles they can go through. If you are wanting to move it to its next assignment and dont really want to work on front hub, I'd recommend putting it on Kijiji/Facebook marketplace/craigslist and I'm sure someone will snap up. Take your winnings and get a newer one. They still have reasonable value if they are still working and rideable but have been ridden hard. My 2 cents. Best wishes with that. Thanks for watching
HELP! I have the ES1 black/white Bird model. I fell and noticed the brake throttle flipped the wrong way up. After communicating with the manufacturer, I replaced the brake throttle with the assumption that was the issue. The warranty is expired now, though. However, I think it's a fuse or a loose cable with the battery. It turns on, but it turns off if I try to use the go-throttle or brake-throttle while moving over 1 mph. I have already checked the motor and other connections. I was just having a hard time removing the battery, so I searched for a video like yours. Can I order a battery, or can you fix it, or is there a solution I can do myself? [I used Grammarly]
Hi JP Apologies- I'm not a scooter technician or a seller of parts - just a curious Dad. I don't have a fix for you offhand but things I might do if I were in your situation: 1 - does it show an error code on the screen as it shuts off 'error 22' 'err 43' or something like that ... Or does it make a series of long or short beeps when it shuts down? Sometimes it will give you a hint about what's wrong. Look up Ninebot error codes if you do get one. 2 - if the screen turns on at all it seems to me your battery is probably reasonably ok. If you can access the battery output leads (to motor) check voltage (carefully)... should be 36-40v. 3- agree - recheck all electrical connections. They can shake loose especially after fall. Sorry I can't be of more assistance. Best wishes on your fix.
@@fixitdad899 THANKS for what you could do. After your reply, I realized that maybe it's the fuse because I had an error 15 when it fell and damaged the brake throttle as it was rotated too far. Last year, I replaced the brake throttle. That made the code go away. I'm not sure if I rode it in-between incidents but since then it was having the current issue of shutting off when using any throttle while over 1 mph. If I didn't ride it, I think, maybe I incorrectly reinstalled the throttle system. A different video suggested that the bumpy streets or hard landings from high city curbs might've broken it. However, I am hoping a small tweak to throttle system is the answer. I would check the battery if I could remove it from the neck: th-cam.com/video/hf_KrEb76ZY/w-d-xo.html ... maybe I'd have to ship it to the guys in that video.
I have a ES2 and I think the battery is dead, do you think will comeback to life if I buy an external battery? I think installing an external will be cheaper and less work. Thank you in advance
Hi AZ...just want to preface my comment with fact that I'm just a Dad and not a scooter technician. Here's my opinion though. I could be wrong but I dont think you will be able to just put an external battery on as a straight replacement/alternate for internal one. The logic in the 'brain boards' is going to check that the voltages of internal battery and external battery are the same or very close to it. When the voltages are not in tandem between the two the logic will throw an error code. Pretty sure its Code 19. Not sure if scooter will scooch if it is showing a code error. Never know ... it might but not so sure. Good luck!
Sorry for slow response. I actually haven't gotten around to trying it. A bit nervous because I have no guarantees that any of my scavenged boards are any good and no good way to test them. Will let you know when I attempt!
Okay... I hate to admit this but I miscalculated and accidentally punctured my internal battery by mounting a cup holder I was custom mounting. It was obvious what happened cuz smoke stink and hissing started flying out so I knew I messed up. Havent opened it up yet to see all of the damage I did but is it possible to just replace 1 of those vells if thats all I destroyed??
Hey RobYn Ouch ... that must have given you a jolt. I have miscalculated on asst projects more than once myself! Note to self...turn off breaker...doh! In theory yes I guess you could replace individual cell or cells. I want to preface that I am not a technician and Li-Ion batts can be very dangerous. Yadda ya... do not try this at home. Disclaimer done. If you were drilling into case chances are you did only hit one cell. But the whole hissing and smell thing...do you think fire was involved? Here's why I ask: physical damage to one single cell is one thing but if that cell heated up significantly when it was doing it's 'not so happy dance' it could have damaged cells or circuitry around it. Cells don't like to be prodded punctured or cooked. You may find when you open up that a chain reaction could have happened involving many cells. Or..you may have drilled through circuit board if unlucky. Hard to tell until you open pack up. Not gonna lie... would not be a fun project to replace one cell. Not like popping off back of remote control and replacing AAA battery. Everything in there is spot welded together. You'd need to disassemble/reassemble pack ... lots of soldering or spotwelding. I'd probably be looking for new or reconditioned pack and advertising your current 'project pack' on Kijiji for a scavenger like me. Chalk up the loss to experience. The time involved to replace individual cells probably not worth dollar/hr effort unless you have all the equipment to manage. But hey... would certainly be a great learning opportunity if you were to SAFELY attempt. Just be careful OK! Please do let us know how it all goes! Tha is for watching. Good luck
Thank u so much for your advice and yes I know theres no way to tell until I open things up but yeah it was just the point tip of a short screw that right as it went in it was a tad bit too far so that whole gases spewing and hissing out the top of the main stem of the scooter as well as out the bottom (mind u both ends attatched with scooter fully assembled) when this happened which Im guessing is a good thing more then not as I dont know how or where that would have sprayed had it been open. I moved it outside carefully after the hissing calmed down a bit because of the gas and the smell I thought could very well be toxic. Plus in the case it did catch fire inside. Ive been afraid to open it up to see the full extent of the damage Ive done and I was so mad at myself. I had just ate some THC infised edibles I had made myself about an hour or more before this so Im thinking that may have caused my poor judgement in this mistake. All I know is that I love my scooter and to take it out and ride makes me feel like a kid or even better as Ive got it at 30mph with the upgrad I did and Ive put so much money into this thing cuz I hate not being able to ride. Its like land surfing literally. Ive learned so much about this thing and Ive replaced the controller in the main stem 3 times myself already ...the hand brake lever and the dash to a flashed dash so I hate spending more but I think youre right. I actually do have the soldering tools and wire cuz I usually do do these projects myself simply for the learning of it. Knowledge is power and I love learning new things. The internet makes it so easy to learn things these days if we are proactive to go seek it out. I did see a used one for pretty cheap on Ebay but that wasnt specific enough for me. I dont want to get a used 1 and find out its ben used up and has dead cells. I dunno but I gotta fix this soon lol. Thanks so much for your help. 😊
@@fixitdad899 Thats funny I just noticed your name on here...Ive always gone by "Mom the Builder" singing the "can she fix it ? Yes I can!!" To my daughter all her life lol
Hey there its me again...so I went with your advice and purchased a new internal battery and I have installed it but do I need to reset it somehow ?? Cuz Ive got it all back together again and turned it on only to still get the error code 19. The blue light is fllashing on this replacement even so what should I do. Plz help
Hey RobYn ... nice to hear from you again. To be honest I sadly don't know the answer. I've tried to find the 'Rosetta Stone' for decoding error codes for trouble shooting but alas haven't yet found. Am not sure what Code 19 actually is. Can anyone reading this who might have the answer jump in and advise RobYn on this one?! Many thanks gang.
Says "19: Battery voltage is abnormal, check battery, control card, cable connected." Is there a loose cable somewhere? What is voltage on new battery if you check with voltmeter? Should be 35ish V or better if it has reasonable charge on it. I wonder if you have to pre-charge before you install replacements? Did you buy replacement 'new' or could it be a used dud sold by some scoundrel?
Damn my es4 won't turn on. I jus got a new dashboard im gonna install today and hope it works. But after watching this I hope its not the battery lol. U said I can get shocked Nd that jus about did it foe me. Lol
Hey Luis - hopefully your new dash will be the cure. Re: accidental shock... hope I didn't freak too many people out but it is true that you do need to be careful. However..I deliberately said "40v applied the right way..." (I guess that would actually be the wrong way) Chances of a fatal shock are actually probably not huge. Would have to be a combination of factors: Dry skin is not a great conductor..but maybe someone has been messing with dielectric grease or is sweating profusely? Never know. Duration of shock another consideration. Path of current is one of the biggest ones. If your heart is in the path of current flow ie. you are grounded via one hand and are 'hot' via the other..not good for heart health. BTW - One of the easiest things to do to reduce shock risk in general is to tie one hand behind your back. Sounds crazy right? But hear me out. (You don't actually have to tie it) If you are poking around in live electricals and are doing it with just one hand there is no direct path across your heart if you short yourself. But...If you are poking around with two hands and accidentally do that thang then.... well not so good. Good luck and stay safe! Thanks for watching.
Hi Adnan - thanks for reach out. I'm not a trained technician I'm just a DIY Dad and not a lot of information to go on here. But... you say it doesn't switch on but then you say when it does switch on it turns off mid ride. Just guessing but sounds to me like a loose connection between battery or the control board on top of handle bars. If the thing turns on and rides at all ever then my guess probably not your battery. When you say 'it doesn't switch on anymore'..do you get any LEDs lighting up on panel and it just won't move or is it just totally dead? You might want to check that the external battery is connecting correctly. I've heard that the contacts can get corroded or can shake free over time. Means internal and external batts will not be in synch voltage wise. Recommend removing external battery and fully charging it on its own...fully charge the internal battery as if it was a standalone ES1. Check contacts and reassemble. Worth a try.
The size is 18650 The Chemistry is Li-Ion I don't have one near me but there are markings that indicate the discharge rates on these cells. They are either made by LG or Panasonic Operatibg Voltage range 3.7-4.2v
Hey Mike ... just curious ...How do you know its 'immediately full' when charging? If you are looking at charger and seeing green light it does not mean battery is full. It means charger does not want to supply current to battery anymore. A battery that has gone below minimum charge will also do this. Are you checking with voltmeter / multimeter?
I have the blue light but it is not flashing, it is constant. I measured between 18V and 19V on the main connector. (Is it below the cut-off Voltage?) I don't know if I can measure interesting info on smaller 4-wire connector. Context: I hadn't used my ES1 for several months because of the lockdown. One day, I took it out and it began at somepoint driving quite slow and then much too slow. I got home and charged it. After, when I switched it on, I got error code 21. I've had error 21 since then. So maybe I need to do some individual cell charging. I don't know yet. Maybe it's cheaper to buy a new battery than a specialised charger. However, it's probably not very eco-friendly to just dump all these cells. Moreover, I don't have a certainty of what the issue is. Since I didn't use it for a long time, chances are it's the battery.
"This error is thrown when the ESC is unable to receive any data from the BMS/Battery. This may be because the 4 pin BMS data line has come unplugged or is not firmly plugged into the ESC. It can also happen when the battery is fully dead or something has killed the BMS board inside" (credit to Joey Babcock)
Hey Tanguy - thx for reach out. The context you give does sound like super dead battery to me. You just put it away for a few months and it wasn't happy...its not like it fell down multiple sets of stairs and suffered an impact or two. If it had suffered a trauma maybe a loose connection to BMS? But 18-19V seems way low to me. Not sure what actual cut off is on this machine but cells usually dont like to go any lower than 3V if I recall correctly. So you should be getting a reading of no lower than 30V on the pack I would think.
Agree that it would be a waste to totally dump the pack and cells. You can get some 2 or 4 slot chargers pretty inexpensively from Wish or other retailers. BUT ...My only caution is that cheap chargers aren't smart enough to know a good cell from a bad cell. With cheap chargers I actually use a thermometer with a magnet on the probe and click onto cells I'm not sure about. Monitor them when they start charging to check for odd temperature rise. I recently had one get very very hot. If I'd walked away and left it without monitoring who knows what might have happened. My next iteration will be an arduino with an alert so I dont have to watch! Project for next winter. A bummer that your pack discharged so quickly. Best wishes on your fix. Let us know how it goes.
@@fixitdad899 Thanks for feedback FIXiT. Yes, the connectors were plugged wel. I'm considering buying a charger so I can charge each 18650 cell individually. I'm guessing the BMS refuses to charge batteries with a voltage that is too low, for security. I don't know what's the technical reason. Though I've seen videos that say a good charger will allow lower voltage but you need to oversee. Also, as you show in your video, I probably need to be very careful that the thermosensors are still measuring the temperature correctly. A new battery pack costs like 200eur while a Li-ion charger costs between 10 to 30eur. Seems worth a try.
Are you proposing to disassemble the pack entirely ... charge cells individually and reassemble the pack or are you proposing to charge the whole sleeve of 20cells at 40v?
I have a question. my battery blinks red. I opened the pack and on one side is around 3.7V /cell and the other side shows 0V. what could be the cause? thx
Yeah dad yer a lil l8 , I have already tore mine apart!! I tried beating it out w/ hammer & pry bar 😮 it stopped moving about 60% of the way 😢 So... Cut the rest of the way with my Dremel & cut thru 2 of the cells 😢
I just got hold of a scooter that's broken from my friend, an ES4. It's completely dead, the internal battery is just flashing red, dissasembled it as you did and it reads 3.7v on all packs, do you think this could be an issue of a fried BMS?
Hi U - I've been searching for a decent reference online that explains the light flash codes but unfortunately can't find a good one. I wish I could give you a for sure 'yep - that's what it is' but I just don't know enough about the electronicals to say for sure. When power tool packs go into "dead" mode its often because they've been sitting idle too long and cells have lost charge dipping them below what charge circuitry deems safe. Often closer to 3.2v from what I've seen. I've been able to bump charge packs and get them going again by bypassing the BMS and charging cells directly (be careful doing this!) You just need to bump charge up past minimum and then BMS circuitry happy again. What I don't know is what cutoff voltage is for these ninebot packs. 3.7v seems high to me for that to be the cause so yep it could be the BMS. The other thing you might want to try because you do have some life (lights flashing) is to long press the brass reset button on the BMS board. Just a guess but maybe this will do enough of a reboot to wake your battery - can't hurt if you haven't tried already. Good luck .. let me know how it goes.
@@fixitdad899 Thank you for the response! Did try the reset button, no luck there i’m afraid. Ordered a new BMS but will have to wait a couple of weeks until it gets to Sweden from china. Will update asap!
Hey U. Thx for getting back on swapping the BMS board out. That sucks. Hmmm... Only so many things in there... do wish I knew the flash codes. One other thing that comes to mind is the thermistor/thermosensors. Total reach here but on my 3D printers if the little glass bulbs or wires leading to them fail then that makes things 'not go well'. Or maybe somehow the main board closer to speed controller not happy? You said ES4 right? Are you making sure to charge internal batt directly and not via the external battery? Need to ensure the two batteries are at near the same voltage before reassembling. (If you can see flashing lights assume you are charging internal directly). All I can think of my friend. Best wishes on the continued search for solution. Gotta be just around the corner!
@@fixitdad899 Right after my comment i saw that both leads to the big condensator on the controller board had snapped for some reason, though it didn't make any difference if i connected them back. I just went ahead and ordered a new controller board and the main / displayboard and hopefully it will get running. And yes, i was only using the internal battery at that time, external wasn't plugged in. :)
Physically stuck or speed control logic stuck? One thing that can surprise newer riders is cruise control locking speed in after I think 6 seconds if engaged. Not a physical issue ... more a preference/ programming issue. My brother in law had a M360 clone unit where brake cable switch was not working. He would engage brake which should disengage cruise control ... it didn't. Only way to disengage cruise control was to flick accelerator which is very counterintuitive especially in a panic situation! He enjoyed some road rash from that malfunction.
Looks like you are looking for an extra battery. I think you'll need to be more specific on internal vs external and also where in the world you are located for people to help you. It's very challenging/often costly to ship Lithium batteries. Best wishes!
Thx for 2nd comment. Wish these batteries weren't so troublesome. Hope you at least got a glimpse of what's inside them that you might not have before. Hope you have a great day.
@@fixitdad899 yo, I just found it in the street and know next to nothing about this cell except that defibrillation isn't my cup o tea...so I'ma be careful...thanx n g'day to you too.
Yeppir ... zap no good. Tip I saw somewhere if you poking around electronics you shouldn't be ... keep one hand behind your back. When you have two hands in current can go from one hand to the other via your arms ... heart in the middle of the path. One hand = no path thru heart. Maybe no good for big toe tho!
@@fixitdad899 sound advice, I'll try to follow it...not sure how to remove case with one hand though...lol Don't think it has a charge though as I took a meter to the leads and didn't get any reading but that's worrisome too...I'll treat it like a loaded gun. I'ma harvest those sweet 18650s for my flashlights. ..lol
Absolutely fantastic tear down. Need to open my segway s3 up as having charging difficulties. Very helpful
@DIM Tips thx for kind words and best wishes on your diagnosis!
BTW Not sure if S3 has external pack as well or not but I've had issues where external and internal packs lose connection and play havoc on charging. Especially if you ride them rough. Oftentimes even with just internal not the battery at fault .. is loose connects.
Cheers!
Great vid! Thanks a lot, I have two dead ninebots, so I try this too, I wasnt sure about the teardown of the sealed pack 🙂
My pleasure - glad was helpful. Check out other vids about 'waking up' batteries.
There's a brass button on the control boards - some vids show hitting that to reset/wake BMS. I did not know that when I shot my vid. Best wishes on your fix!
EXCELLENT VIDEO THANK YOU ❤❤❤😮😮😮😮😊😊
Thx so much - appreciated- happy scootering in '23
Of course I give you a like... nice video
Thx very much - happy scootering!
Thank you.
My pleasure! Thx for watching and happy scootering
What is the other connections for besides the power? It wasn’t connected to anything on my scooter
Hey buddy, great video! Did you ever change the BMS from the other pack? Did it work? Do you have a video? I just opened mine and i believe my internal battery is dead and I'm about to purchase a new BMS. Just wanted to know if it works or not.
Thx Benjamin
Sadly still on my to do list.
I don't have total confidence in the cast-off boards that I currently have but will give it a go sometime and we'll see what happens!
Hey ... post an update link or or comment on your fix would ya? Am interested to see how goes Best Rhys
I’ve had a couple that flash red where the blue light is. Usually means improper voltage. Only been able to fix one in that condition by connecting, dismounting etc.
Hi Indoor ... thanks for info! Question for you - I've been looking for a source to explain light flash error codes on these units - haven't found one and many forums are dead ends. Have you found a source that you could share? Many thanks
@@fixitdad899 I have been looking for those codes also. Can not find anywhere. Please share if anyone finds out
I still don't have ... Audi or Indoor you guys happen to know what "Code 19" actually means for sure? Another commenter has an issue with that error code. Cheers
m.gearbest.com/blog/how-to/ninebot-segway-es2-scooter-error-code-7369
Have attached link for numerical screen codes...is not blinking light patterns but still might be of interest
Thanks for the video. if you have a flashing red light what does that means
"BMS standby, over-discharged, not hibernating yet"
Hi @Consty Ekah - If you Google symptom above and add 'Ninebot' various sources cite error codes and meanings. I think you have a battery that has over- discharged. If these batteries are ridden hard and then put in a closet over winter for example - they continue to lose charge. Once they get below a certain threshold the BMS (battery mgmt system / circuitry on battery pack)
starts to shut things down.
If way too low battery goes into hibernation mode and you get no lights. Either way you would need to 'bump charge' the pack/cells to get back above this minimum charge threshhold.
That process beyond my capabilities though!! Best wishes ... hope that helps a bit.
You mentioned that typically you find one half of the battery is dead. I think I have found this exact same condition on three internal batteries I just opened for a friend, all the same side. The 'bottom' side from B- will read 2-3v between connections (discharged but still potentially healthy), and the B+ side is almost perfectly zero on each cell (ruined cells), maybe one or two are in the mV range.
Do you have any idea why this is? I have never heard of a battery failing like this. I suspect maybe something in the BMS is prone to failure and shorts or at least drains that side of the battery? I was expecting to be able to replace a few cells, but I don't think I can trust the BMS.
Hey Tim
Bummer. 3 packs?!
That 1/2 pack condition is perplexing and actually led to me mis-stating how the cells are configured in the pack in the video. Someone corrected me in comments which was appreciated.
I think I said cells were configured 10S2P whereas they are actually 2P10S (or vice versa)
I assumed that there were 2 stacks of 10 cells each stack all connected in series (boosting voltage to 40v ish) and then the 2 stacks connected in parallel creating what I thought were the two halves.
From what I understand now there are actually subunits of 2 cells connected in parallel (4ish volts) These 10 pairs are stacked in series to boost voltage to 40ish volts.
(Explanation above more for other readers as you probably know this already.)
So... short answer (no pun intended) is nope I have not uncovered why this is the case.
Your very well described condition above does agree with what I've found but I'm stumped. Bottom line I don't trust the boards at all and am just using the good half cells for salvage.
Me no likey the 'hiss-smoke-boom-fire' in my wooden home.
Thanks for reach out. Sorry I don't have anything more insightful.
Best wishes on your projects!
@@fixitdad899 Thanks for the additional info! Yup I will probably just salvage the living cells. I'm just bummed that these packs seem so deeply flawed.
Hey my battery health is still good but I need to replace the connector on it because it's worn out doesn't stay connected so my scooter constantly switches between having the external pack and only using the onboard. I have found that you can buy the connector really cheap. How easy is it to remove just the connector?
@howcin Hi - thx for reach out. I've never replaced one myself unfortunately (fortunately) and am assuming you mean the connector inside the upright tube in with internal battery etc.
That would mean having to remove tube - unscrewing end caps - gently pushing guts of tube out to reveal IC boards/wires/internal battery pack - replacing the part - putting it all back together.
I think the trickiest bit would be desoldering/resoldering that jack/connector to IC board IF that is how it attaches. If part comes with lead wires/harness and just clips to board and jack/connector screws into a bracket then wayyyyy easier.
Guess it depends on your patience and skills.
My Dad always used to say "nothing is all that difficult ... some things just take more time"
Sorry I have no specifics for you but best wishes on your fix. If you are handy with solder then can't be all that hard. Pls be safe!
The battery is rated at 36v 5100mAh. Assuming a 10s2p they have pretty poor cell mAh (2500) and could be improved by rebuilding with 3000+. I don't see an amperage rating. Anyone know?
It seems the batter is just “sleeping” and need to be woken up. The battery controller does this to prevent total discharge while in storage.
Hi Emmett
Yep ... It could well have been the case. I was an escooter battery rookie when I did that video.
What I wish I had known then.. the function of the little brass button on the control board ... 'Reset' / 'Awaken' .... doh!!!!
There's actually now a great video out there showing how you can drill (very carefully) into the packs just above that detente button so you can depress it without going to lengths I did.
Lifelong learning has its moments!
Have a good one sir! Thx for watching and commenting.
@@fixitdad899 Yep. Jehu Garcia’s video. I’ve got a couple of his scooter packs around myself. :)
He's fantastic! I wish I was in the States for better access to him and his products. Alas ... up here in the great white north makes access to his stuff a bit more challenging eh?! Have a great wknd. At risk of sounding like a total Canuck ... I bought a Kevlar canoe yesterday ... no batteries required! Goin' paddling.
Can a second external battery be connected to the front of the ninebot e45d? So I had one internal and two external batteries? how can i connect together ?
If you are willing to charge batteries separately - probably is a way. You'd need to connect all 3 packs in parallel. Probably need to put T style connectors T40 T60 etc. onto packs to connect them. You would lose 'one connection' charging. Its beyond what I would take on personally but in theory possible I would think. Best wishes on it if you take it on. Be careful!! LI tricky and goes boom on occasion
how did you get the cover off the battery? The cover with the two holes? I have been looking for 1 year for this tool !!!!
Hi Dash.. I have a basic shop compass from Harbor Freight / Princess Auto. The ones that have two metal legs with pointy ends with thumb screw to adjust distance between the points.
I just adjusted legs to the width of holes and gently twisted out the plug/cap. They (threaded caps) aren't really tightened in too tight...more just positioning.
If you Tuck or Duck/t tape two long skinny bolts together would probably work. Maybe even elastic on chopsticks?! Good luck!
took mine to a shop for board replacement inside, and after i left the place less than a block i hit a bump too hard and something came loose and now wont stop beeping or work.
Ouch ... that sucks - these machines really don't have much in the way of suspension. Hard on the internals. Hopefully that shop was able to fix again.
Best wishes. Ride well!
How do you get the battery pack out of the tube?
th-cam.com/video/bTMKUIi2EJY/w-d-xo.html
Check from 4:10 to 6:30 (is in Chinese but good visual) Don't need special tool just a couple of pointy things and patience. Best wishes!
Anyone got a video of replacing the mosfet side? When bms connected its shorting out in one of the mosfets and causing the voltage drop + red flasing light
Bummer...but good to know one possible cause of red flashing light. I don't have vid for that unfortunately. Anyone else?
Gracias
No es nada (hope that translates ok!)
@@fixitdad899 excelent
Question - if battery is totally dead and if I tear it down, and replace all 18650 elements and put it all together - will it work?
Hi E -
Theoretically ... possibly.
IF the electronics are all still good AND you are good with spot welding new cells AND cells are to proper specification - then should work but that's a lot of risk and work in my opinion.
Spot welding is a tricky business unless you have correct equipment.
Best wishes on your project if you attempt. Please let us know how goes.
Thx for watching and commenting.
Hey there, have removed the whole pack from an ES2 and there is no blinking from the pack but with multimeter read out is 14,7 volts. Can't get the scooter to start the display or charge, simply to low voltage to charge it? But why no blinking you think?
Hey Per
15v out of pack is definitely not right or good.
Should expect voltage of 40v plus when fully charged and I believe no lower than low 30's for 'discharged' state.
Each of the 20 cells works between about 3.7 and 4.2v when healthy.
I dont know the exact answer but could be your BMS board in battery has gone bad and your cells will no longer charge. Has scooter been 'dead' for a while? 15v is very low.
@@fixitdad899 yeah it was left over wintet by previous owner. But all solved now. Managed to bump the battery up again to around 27 volts and aftet that regular charger worked again. First battery showed nothing (not flashing) but after a little bumping it started first flashing red and a bit later went to normal blue flash state. 👍🙂
Hey... nicely done! Great information re: when lights kick in / red / blue.
Question for you - how did you bump charge? Did you have to bypass BMS in battery pack (disassemble) or could you just go straight to the standard power out leads? Did you use a plug in external adjustable power supply? I have a bench top supply that I think maxes out at 30v. Can adjust current and voltage. You? Many thanks for any insight here.
so ... just how long can these batteries last before it's time to dump the scooter? Because my front tire lost most of its thread anyway so i'd rather not repair it.
Hard to say for certain - probably someone out there way more knowledgable than I who knows about how many charge cycles they can go through.
If you are wanting to move it to its next assignment and dont really want to work on front hub, I'd recommend putting it on Kijiji/Facebook marketplace/craigslist and I'm sure someone will snap up. Take your winnings and get a newer one.
They still have reasonable value if they are still working and rideable but have been ridden hard.
My 2 cents. Best wishes with that.
Thanks for watching
HELP!
I have the ES1 black/white Bird model.
I fell and noticed the brake throttle flipped the wrong way up. After communicating with the manufacturer, I replaced the brake throttle with the assumption that was the issue. The warranty is expired now, though.
However, I think it's a fuse or a loose cable with the battery. It turns on, but it turns off if I try to use the go-throttle or brake-throttle while moving over 1 mph.
I have already checked the motor and other connections. I was just having a hard time removing the battery, so I searched for a video like yours.
Can I order a battery, or can you fix it, or is there a solution I can do myself?
[I used Grammarly]
Hi JP
Apologies- I'm not a scooter technician or a seller of parts - just a curious Dad.
I don't have a fix for you offhand but things I might do if I were in your situation:
1 - does it show an error code on the screen as it shuts off 'error 22' 'err 43' or something like that ... Or does it make a series of long or short beeps when it shuts down?
Sometimes it will give you a hint about what's wrong. Look up Ninebot error codes if you do get one.
2 - if the screen turns on at all it seems to me your battery is probably reasonably ok. If you can access the battery output leads (to motor) check voltage (carefully)... should be 36-40v.
3- agree - recheck all electrical connections. They can shake loose especially after fall.
Sorry I can't be of more assistance. Best wishes on your fix.
@@fixitdad899
THANKS for what you could do.
After your reply, I realized that maybe it's the fuse because I had an error 15 when it fell and damaged the brake throttle as it was rotated too far.
Last year, I replaced the brake throttle. That made the code go away. I'm not sure if I rode it in-between incidents but since then it was having the current issue of shutting off when using any throttle while over 1 mph.
If I didn't ride it, I think, maybe I incorrectly reinstalled the throttle system.
A different video suggested that the bumpy streets or hard landings from high city curbs might've broken it. However, I am hoping a small tweak to throttle system is the answer.
I would check the battery if I could remove it from the neck: th-cam.com/video/hf_KrEb76ZY/w-d-xo.html ... maybe I'd have to ship it to the guys in that video.
I have a ES2 and I think the battery is dead, do you think will comeback to life if I buy an external battery? I think installing an external will be cheaper and less work. Thank you in advance
Hi AZ...just want to preface my comment with fact that I'm just a Dad and not a scooter technician. Here's my opinion though. I could be wrong but I dont think you will be able to just put an external battery on as a straight replacement/alternate for internal one.
The logic in the 'brain boards' is going to check that the voltages of internal battery and external battery are the same or very close to it. When the voltages are not in tandem between the two the logic will throw an error code.
Pretty sure its Code 19.
Not sure if scooter will scooch if it is showing a code error. Never know ... it might but not so sure. Good luck!
@@fixitdad899 thank you for taking some time to answer me
Did the board change get it working?
Sorry for slow response. I actually haven't gotten around to trying it. A bit nervous because I have no guarantees that any of my scavenged boards are any good and no good way to test them. Will let you know when I attempt!
Okay... I hate to admit this but I miscalculated and accidentally punctured my internal battery by mounting a cup holder I was custom mounting. It was obvious what happened cuz smoke stink and hissing started flying out so I knew I messed up. Havent opened it up yet to see all of the damage I did but is it possible to just replace 1 of those vells if thats all I destroyed??
Hey RobYn
Ouch ... that must have given you a jolt. I have miscalculated on asst projects more than once myself! Note to self...turn off breaker...doh!
In theory yes I guess you could replace individual cell or cells.
I want to preface that I am not a technician and Li-Ion batts can be very dangerous. Yadda ya... do not try this at home. Disclaimer done.
If you were drilling into case chances are you did only hit one cell. But the whole hissing and smell thing...do you think fire was involved?
Here's why I ask: physical damage to one single cell is one thing but if that cell heated up significantly when it was doing it's 'not so happy dance' it could have damaged cells or circuitry around it. Cells don't like to be prodded punctured or cooked.
You may find when you open up that a chain reaction could have happened involving many cells.
Or..you may have drilled through circuit board if unlucky. Hard to tell until you open pack up.
Not gonna lie... would not be a fun project to replace one cell. Not like popping off back of remote control and replacing AAA battery. Everything in there is spot welded together. You'd need to disassemble/reassemble pack ... lots of soldering or spotwelding.
I'd probably be looking for new or reconditioned pack and advertising your current 'project pack' on Kijiji for a scavenger like me. Chalk up the loss to experience.
The time involved to replace individual cells probably not worth dollar/hr effort unless you have all the equipment to manage.
But hey... would certainly be a great learning opportunity if you were to SAFELY attempt.
Just be careful OK!
Please do let us know how it all goes! Tha is for watching. Good luck
Thank u so much for your advice and yes I know theres no way to tell until I open things up but yeah it was just the point tip of a short screw that right as it went in it was a tad bit too far so that whole gases spewing and hissing out the top of the main stem of the scooter as well as out the bottom (mind u both ends attatched with scooter fully assembled) when this happened which Im guessing is a good thing more then not as I dont know how or where that would have sprayed had it been open. I moved it outside carefully after the hissing calmed down a bit because of the gas and the smell I thought could very well be toxic. Plus in the case it did catch fire inside. Ive been afraid to open it up to see the full extent of the damage Ive done and I was so mad at myself. I had just ate some THC infised edibles I had made myself about an hour or more before this so Im thinking that may have caused my poor judgement in this mistake. All I know is that I love my scooter and to take it out and ride makes me feel like a kid or even better as Ive got it at 30mph with the upgrad I did and Ive put so much money into this thing cuz I hate not being able to ride. Its like land surfing literally. Ive learned so much about this thing and Ive replaced the controller in the main stem 3 times myself already ...the hand brake lever and the dash to a flashed dash so I hate spending more but I think youre right. I actually do have the soldering tools and wire cuz I usually do do these projects myself simply for the learning of it. Knowledge is power and I love learning new things. The internet makes it so easy to learn things these days if we are proactive to go seek it out. I did see a used one for pretty cheap on Ebay but that wasnt specific enough for me. I dont want to get a used 1 and find out its ben used up and has dead cells. I dunno but I gotta fix this soon lol. Thanks so much for your help. 😊
@@fixitdad899 Thats funny I just noticed your name on here...Ive always gone by "Mom the Builder" singing the "can she fix it ? Yes I can!!" To my daughter all her life lol
Hey there its me again...so I went with your advice and purchased a new internal battery and I have installed it but do I need to reset it somehow ?? Cuz Ive got it all back together again and turned it on only to still get the error code 19. The blue light is fllashing on this replacement even so what should I do. Plz help
Hey RobYn ... nice to hear from you again. To be honest I sadly don't know the answer.
I've tried to find the 'Rosetta Stone' for decoding error codes for trouble shooting but alas haven't yet found.
Am not sure what Code 19 actually is.
Can anyone reading this who might have the answer jump in and advise RobYn on this one?! Many thanks gang.
m.gearbest.com/blog/how-to/ninebot-segway-es2-scooter-error-code-7369
Says "19: Battery voltage is abnormal, check battery, control card, cable connected."
Is there a loose cable somewhere? What is voltage on new battery if you check with voltmeter? Should be 35ish V or better if it has reasonable charge on it.
I wonder if you have to pre-charge before you install replacements? Did you buy replacement 'new' or could it be a used dud sold by some scoundrel?
Damn my es4 won't turn on. I jus got a new dashboard im gonna install today and hope it works. But after watching this I hope its not the battery lol. U said I can get shocked Nd that jus about did it foe me. Lol
Hey Luis - hopefully your new dash will be the cure. Re: accidental shock... hope I didn't freak too many people out but it is true that you do need to be careful. However..I deliberately said "40v applied the right way..." (I guess that would actually be the wrong way)
Chances of a fatal shock are actually probably not huge. Would have to be a combination of factors:
Dry skin is not a great conductor..but maybe someone has been messing with dielectric grease or is sweating profusely? Never know.
Duration of shock another consideration.
Path of current is one of the biggest ones. If your heart is in the path of current flow ie. you are grounded via one hand and are 'hot' via the other..not good for heart health.
BTW - One of the easiest things to do to reduce shock risk in general is to tie one hand behind your back. Sounds crazy right? But hear me out. (You don't actually have to tie it) If you are poking around in live electricals and are doing it with just one hand there is no direct path across your heart if you short yourself. But...If you are poking around with two hands and accidentally do that thang then.... well not so good. Good luck and stay safe! Thanks for watching.
Hey my ES4 shows error 19 and isn’t working, do you fix other people’s scooters too? Because if you do, I wouldn’t mind paying you to do so.
th-cam.com/video/jQBWluBf_qk/w-d-xo.html
Where are you located?
My es2 is not switching on anymore do I need a new battery also wen It does on it turns of mid ride help plz
Hi Adnan - thanks for reach out. I'm not a trained technician I'm just a DIY Dad and not a lot of information to go on here. But... you say it doesn't switch on but then you say when it does switch on it turns off mid ride.
Just guessing but sounds to me like a loose connection between battery or the control board on top of handle bars.
If the thing turns on and rides at all ever then my guess probably not your battery.
When you say 'it doesn't switch on anymore'..do you get any LEDs lighting up on panel and it just won't move or is it just totally dead?
You might want to check that the external battery is connecting correctly. I've heard that the contacts can get corroded or can shake free over time.
Means internal and external batts will not be in synch voltage wise. Recommend removing external battery and fully charging it on its own...fully charge the internal battery as if it was a standalone ES1. Check contacts and reassemble. Worth a try.
@@fixitdad899 thanks my scooter has completely shut off nothing is coming on so al try wat u have said
What is the exact type of battery are those blue rechargeable cells inside??
The size is 18650
The Chemistry is Li-Ion
I don't have one near me but there are markings that indicate the discharge rates on these cells. They are either made by LG or Panasonic
Operatibg Voltage range 3.7-4.2v
@@fixitdad899 Perfect thank you!!
My isn't finishing blue it run donw immediately and when am charging it it get full immediately
Hey Mike ... just curious ...How do you know its 'immediately full' when charging? If you are looking at charger and seeing green light it does not mean battery is full. It means charger does not want to supply current to battery anymore. A battery that has gone below minimum charge will also do this. Are you checking with voltmeter / multimeter?
I have the blue light but it is not flashing, it is constant. I measured between 18V and 19V on the main connector. (Is it below the cut-off Voltage?)
I don't know if I can measure interesting info on smaller 4-wire connector.
Context: I hadn't used my ES1 for several months because of the lockdown. One day, I took it out and it began at somepoint driving quite slow and then much too slow. I got home and charged it. After, when I switched it on, I got error code 21. I've had error 21 since then.
So maybe I need to do some individual cell charging. I don't know yet.
Maybe it's cheaper to buy a new battery than a specialised charger. However, it's probably not very eco-friendly to just dump all these cells.
Moreover, I don't have a certainty of what the issue is. Since I didn't use it for a long time, chances are it's the battery.
"This error is thrown when the ESC is unable to receive any data from the BMS/Battery. This may be because the 4 pin BMS data line has come unplugged or is not firmly plugged into the ESC. It can also happen when the battery is fully dead or something has killed the BMS board inside" (credit to Joey Babcock)
Hey Tanguy - thx for reach out. The context you give does sound like super dead battery to me. You just put it away for a few months and it wasn't happy...its not like it fell down multiple sets of stairs and suffered an impact or two. If it had suffered a trauma maybe a loose connection to BMS? But 18-19V seems way low to me. Not sure what actual cut off is on this machine but cells usually dont like to go any lower than 3V if I recall correctly.
So you should be getting a reading of no lower than 30V on the pack I would think.
Agree that it would be a waste to totally dump the pack and cells. You can get some 2 or 4 slot chargers pretty inexpensively from Wish or other retailers. BUT ...My only caution is that cheap chargers aren't smart enough to know a good cell from a bad cell. With cheap chargers I actually use a thermometer with a magnet on the probe and click onto cells I'm not sure about. Monitor them when they start charging to check for odd temperature rise. I recently had one get very very hot. If I'd walked away and left it without monitoring who knows what might have happened. My next iteration will be an arduino with an alert so I dont have to watch! Project for next winter.
A bummer that your pack discharged so quickly. Best wishes on your fix. Let us know how it goes.
@@fixitdad899 Thanks for feedback FIXiT. Yes, the connectors were plugged wel. I'm considering buying a charger so I can charge each 18650 cell individually.
I'm guessing the BMS refuses to charge batteries with a voltage that is too low, for security. I don't know what's the technical reason.
Though I've seen videos that say a good charger will allow lower voltage but you need to oversee.
Also, as you show in your video, I probably need to be very careful that the thermosensors are still measuring the temperature correctly.
A new battery pack costs like 200eur while a Li-ion charger costs between 10 to 30eur. Seems worth a try.
Are you proposing to disassemble the pack entirely ... charge cells individually and reassemble the pack or are you proposing to charge the whole sleeve of 20cells at 40v?
I have a question. my battery blinks red. I opened the pack and on one side is around 3.7V /cell and the other side shows 0V. what could be the cause? thx
My battery blinks red too is that normal?
@@stefanverhoef7193 no, it is not
@@synhro do you know how to fix it?
@@stefanverhoef7193 the battery controller is probaby dead, m gonna buy a new battery.
@@synhro wasnt connected to the controller
Yeah dad yer a lil l8 , I have already tore mine apart!!
I tried beating it out w/ hammer & pry bar 😮 it stopped moving about 60% of the way 😢
So... Cut the rest of the way with my Dremel & cut thru 2 of the cells 😢
In the immortal words of Scooby-Doo "Ruh-ro!" Hopefully Puff the Magic Dragon didn't getcha. Sorry for tardiness - endeavor to do better next time! 😯
There a reset button to turn on battery
Thx Octavio. That link you'd provided re: alternate method of reviving was great too. Appreciated.
Amigo tengo falla 45. Sabes la solución?
www.google.com/search?q=error+45+ninebot+es2&oq=fault.45+ninebot&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0i22i30l4j0i390l4.8616j0j7&client=ms-android-samsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8
Pls Follow the link for a few ideas from others who have had fault. Best wishes!
I just got hold of a scooter that's broken from my friend, an ES4. It's completely dead, the internal battery is just flashing red, dissasembled it as you did and it reads 3.7v on all packs, do you think this could be an issue of a fried BMS?
Hi U - I've been searching for a decent reference online that explains the light flash codes but unfortunately can't find a good one. I wish I could give you a for sure 'yep - that's what it is' but I just don't know enough about the electronicals to say for sure.
When power tool packs go into "dead" mode its often because they've been sitting idle too long and cells have lost charge dipping them below what charge circuitry deems safe. Often closer to 3.2v from what I've seen. I've been able to bump charge packs and get them going again by bypassing the BMS and charging cells directly (be careful doing this!) You just need to bump charge up past minimum and then BMS circuitry happy again. What I don't know is what cutoff voltage is for these ninebot packs. 3.7v seems high to me for that to be the cause so yep it could be the BMS.
The other thing you might want to try because you do have some life (lights flashing) is to long press the brass reset button on the BMS board. Just a guess but maybe this will do enough of a reboot to wake your battery - can't hurt if you haven't tried already. Good luck .. let me know how it goes.
@@fixitdad899 Thank you for the response! Did try the reset button, no luck there i’m afraid. Ordered a new BMS but will have to wait a couple of weeks until it gets to Sweden from china. Will update asap!
Guess it wasn’t the BMS, swapped it out and the new one flashes in blue, switches to red while charging, and the scooter still doesn’t start
Hey U. Thx for getting back on swapping the BMS board out. That sucks. Hmmm... Only so many things in there... do wish I knew the flash codes.
One other thing that comes to mind is the thermistor/thermosensors. Total reach here but on my 3D printers if the little glass bulbs or wires leading to them fail then that makes things 'not go well'. Or maybe somehow the main board closer to speed controller not happy?
You said ES4 right? Are you making sure to charge internal batt directly and not via the external battery? Need to ensure the two batteries are at near the same voltage before reassembling. (If you can see flashing lights assume you are charging internal directly). All I can think of my friend. Best wishes on the continued search for solution. Gotta be just around the corner!
@@fixitdad899 Right after my comment i saw that both leads to the big condensator on the controller board had snapped for some reason, though it didn't make any difference if i connected them back. I just went ahead and ordered a new controller board and the main / displayboard and hopefully it will get running. And yes, i was only using the internal battery at that time, external wasn't plugged in. :)
It's not just a scooter it's a nightmare!
anyone haveing issues with throttle getting stuck
Physically stuck or speed control logic stuck?
One thing that can surprise newer riders is cruise control locking speed in after I think 6 seconds if engaged.
Not a physical issue ... more a preference/ programming issue.
My brother in law had a M360 clone unit where brake cable switch was not working. He would engage brake which should disengage cruise control ... it didn't. Only way to disengage cruise control was to flick accelerator which is very counterintuitive especially in a panic situation!
He enjoyed some road rash from that malfunction.
@@fixitdad899 Thank you so much that fixed it ^5
Excellent... glad I could help
Trazim dodatnu bateriju za sigvey ninibot
Looks like you are looking for an extra battery. I think you'll need to be more specific on internal vs external and also where in the world you are located for people to help you. It's very challenging/often costly to ship Lithium batteries. Best wishes!
Thanx 4 nothing
Ok, I spoke 2 soon
... You're opening it up now...lol
Thx for 2nd comment. Wish these batteries weren't so troublesome. Hope you at least got a glimpse of what's inside them that you might not have before. Hope you have a great day.
@@fixitdad899 yo, I just found it in the street and know next to nothing about this cell except that defibrillation isn't my cup o tea...so I'ma be careful...thanx n g'day to you too.
Yeppir ... zap no good.
Tip I saw somewhere if you poking around electronics you shouldn't be ... keep one hand behind your back. When you have two hands in current can go from one hand to the other via your arms ... heart in the middle of the path. One hand = no path thru heart. Maybe no good for big toe tho!
@@fixitdad899 sound advice, I'll try to follow it...not sure how to remove case with one hand though...lol
Don't think it has a charge though as I took a meter to the leads and didn't get any reading but that's worrisome too...I'll treat it like a loaded gun.
I'ma harvest those sweet 18650s for my flashlights.
..lol