21:43 with great difficulty 😅7810 did one this summer. To take out the sump wasn't actually too bad either on the 7810, 8240 wouldn't be too different I'd say. I rested my bellhousing on a solid stack of concrete blocks and wooden shims to get the height just perfect. I had most of the weight taken off the front wheels but they were still on the ground. I had the radiator away getting recored at the time as well so it was easy to get to the bolts holding the front end on. Take out 2 of the bolts and stick extra long ones in instead. Take out the rest of the bolts and the front tombstone will walk out and the two extra long bolts will guide it out and keep it from falling over in any way. It only needs to go out a few inches like.
You can access bolts on firewall plate from inside cab when you remove lower dash panels you should be able to see a steel panel on both sides that you remove
seen a same explorer being done here one time had to drop the sump ...... he loosened the bolts on the axle and took out the bottom 2 and was just able to slide down the oil pan .......the front axle stayed on the whole time ...... was a long time ago but thats how i remember it .......tractor was parked in the hay shed oil pump failed ......
Enjoying the mechanical videos, definitely educational for people like me with an interest but not a lot of practical experience ripping something to that extent 👍 Hope it works out well and you don't have to go in again. It'll be a peach when it's all sorted.
Hello there Mr CVX, Have a 8340 our self's, just wondering what rpm is she reving out to as, I was always told if you rev them out any further than 2450rpms they will drop a valve.
Great Video Tom, nice to see you noting the sequence of the push rods and it looks like the worn cylinder liners can have stemmed from two issues at the last rebuild, the liners were not bored out correctly, original worn pistons were used with new rings or cheap new pistons….. I’ve heard engines with the same knock after rebuilt and on examination the liners were incorrectly bored for the pistons fitted…. Better to remove the front axel completely after putting stands under the bell housing, it might be better to remove engine completely and put new liners and pistons, might be worth checking if there’s a return oil restrictor fitted to prevent turbocharger ware. Looking forward to part 2, great to see you taking on this project keep up the good work.
You can get those back plate bolts out from inside the cab through the side panels at the clutch. Wee plate behind it lets you in. 5/8 socket fits them. Changed pipes and orbital unit that way without splitting tractor. Loosen all the bolts into head and lift that panel out. I drive to wooden wedge's into the the stoppers on the axle ! Jack at bellhousing and wheel out front and set on axle stand.
It's all a bit strange how cooking her caused the middle two liners to wear and the others seem fine? Would it normally tighten up first from overheating? Never done a ford before but removing the front axle to get the sump off seems an arse, but bolting the bulkhead to the head is no better! Best of luck 👍
You can reach the hydraulic steering pipes by removing the floor under the floor mat and by removing the cowling around the lower dash. It is possible to access all the pipes but it is a tight fit.
Jack up gearbox disconnect anything that crosses the front part of the engine like wires hoses etc then get a teleworkers or tractor and loader to pull front away we used a bar put through the linkage and chained tight to teleporter then was able to wheel the front away out to the yard and also using 2 wedge type blocks in both sides of axle to stop it from falling to one side and as for head we usually do as little striping as possible till kits on the bench the bulk head we leave on til. We get to bench so just tied up brake bottle and anything else connected and then lifted off with engine hoist or tele porter there simple engine to work on once ya do it once
Has the engine been rebuilt recently I wonder if they didn't gap the rings and it nipped up if so I would have all the pistons out and check the piston ring gaps but that's only my opinion
Rather you than me on this job 🤦♂️. Gotta long it when pipes are hidden for that lovely day they let go Ava you’re stuck somewhere stupid🤦♂️. Be interested to know how you do have those pipes! I’m looking forward to the next instalment👍
There's a lot to be said for the john deeres of the same era. At least the engineers thought of the man needing to pull spanner's on the thing everything is easy got at on them
Rip out the block and send it to an engine-re place get it rebuilt. Hardly two faulty liners in the middle of the engine. Are them two rods bent ? Their on the same stroke .. more than likely. Peace of mind after all the hard work taken it apart. Is their liners in it ??
If those liners need replacing You’ve to take out your engine get those liners machined out and have new ones pressed in , so get ready to split it in 3 , steering pipes are an absolute pain but they can be got from the inside of the cab through the small inspection plate
Jack below the sump wheel the front out with a bar and a pin in it through the front towing eye on the weight block and set on stand below 4wd drop box
There isn't many fellas have had to touch the engine of a 40 series ford, lad near me has a 7840 and the cab, bonnet etc is all stunk rotten from salt water, she has been around the clock 3 times on the one engine and it wasn't for the tlc she got from him 😂
Hard to believe that we’ve a 7840 an 8340 from new an both engines went round 15 thousand hours. An they where always looked after, ect oil an filters….. there great tractors tho👌
we used threaded bar , take out the bolts holding the engine block to the front tombstone and put inn two (as long as possible) pieces of thick threaded bar with a nut on each end then roll the front axle forward till allow you to get at the sump bolts, we also used a trolley jack to support
To change the hydraulic hoses is painful but manageable you take up the floor of the tractor and take off the pannel around the steering wheel and take the pipes off. Takes awhile to get the pipes on and off but we managed
Enjoyable video, nice to listen to you simplifying your technical knowledge so we can understand it.
At least your a brave man facing into the unknown. The added humour is always a benefit!!
21:43 with great difficulty 😅7810 did one this summer. To take out the sump wasn't actually too bad either on the 7810, 8240 wouldn't be too different I'd say. I rested my bellhousing on a solid stack of concrete blocks and wooden shims to get the height just perfect. I had most of the weight taken off the front wheels but they were still on the ground. I had the radiator away getting recored at the time as well so it was easy to get to the bolts holding the front end on. Take out 2 of the bolts and stick extra long ones in instead. Take out the rest of the bolts and the front tombstone will walk out and the two extra long bolts will guide it out and keep it from falling over in any way. It only needs to go out a few inches like.
You can access bolts on firewall plate from inside cab when you remove lower dash panels you should be able to see a steel panel on both sides that you remove
seen a same explorer being done here one time had to drop the sump ...... he loosened the bolts on the axle and took out the bottom 2 and was just able to slide down the oil pan .......the front axle stayed on the whole time ......
was a long time ago but thats how i remember it .......tractor was parked in the hay shed oil pump failed ......
Enjoying the mechanical videos, definitely educational for people like me with an interest but not a lot of practical experience ripping something to that extent 👍 Hope it works out well and you don't have to go in again. It'll be a peach when it's all sorted.
Great video looking forward part 2 Mr. Cvx 👍👍
Great video, looking forward to following the progress of this job
Fair play best of luck getting it sorted 👍
Hello there Mr CVX, Have a 8340 our self's, just wondering what rpm is she reving out to as, I was always told if you rev them out any further than 2450rpms they will drop a valve.
Great Video Tom, nice to see you noting the sequence of the push rods and it looks like the worn cylinder liners can have stemmed from two issues at the last rebuild, the liners were not bored out correctly, original worn pistons were used with new rings or cheap new pistons….. I’ve heard engines with the same knock after rebuilt and on examination the liners were incorrectly bored for the pistons fitted…. Better to remove the front axel completely after putting stands under the bell housing, it might be better to remove engine completely and put new liners and pistons, might be worth checking if there’s a return oil restrictor fitted to prevent turbocharger ware. Looking forward to part 2, great to see you taking on this project keep up the good work.
Lovely bull to go with your lovely herd
You can get those back plate bolts out from inside the cab through the side panels at the clutch. Wee plate behind it lets you in. 5/8 socket fits them. Changed pipes and orbital unit that way without splitting tractor. Loosen all the bolts into head and lift that panel out. I drive to wooden wedge's into the the stoppers on the axle ! Jack at bellhousing and wheel out front and set on axle stand.
Fair play to you there is a lot work into doing that. Very interesting watching you.
It's all a bit strange how cooking her caused the middle two liners to wear and the others seem fine? Would it normally tighten up first from overheating? Never done a ford before but removing the front axle to get the sump off seems an arse, but bolting the bulkhead to the head is no better! Best of luck 👍
You can reach the hydraulic steering pipes by removing the floor under the floor mat and by removing the cowling around the lower dash. It is possible to access all the pipes but it is a tight fit.
Jack up gearbox disconnect anything that crosses the front part of the engine like wires hoses etc then get a teleworkers or tractor and loader to pull front away we used a bar put through the linkage and chained tight to teleporter then was able to wheel the front away out to the yard and also using 2 wedge type blocks in both sides of axle to stop it from falling to one side and as for head we usually do as little striping as possible till kits on the bench the bulk head we leave on til. We get to bench so just tied up brake bottle and anything else connected and then lifted off with engine hoist or tele porter there simple engine to work on once ya do it once
Great video a lot of work involved I really enjoyed the video very interesting can’t wait for part 2
Has the engine been rebuilt recently I wonder if they didn't gap the rings and it nipped up if so I would have all the pistons out and check the piston ring gaps but that's only my opinion
Rather you than me on this job 🤦♂️. Gotta long it when pipes are hidden for that lovely day they let go Ava you’re stuck somewhere stupid🤦♂️. Be interested to know how you do have those pipes! I’m looking forward to the next instalment👍
There's a lot to be said for the john deeres of the same era. At least the engineers thought of the man needing to pull spanner's on the thing everything is easy got at on them
Rip out the block and send it to an engine-re place get it rebuilt. Hardly two faulty liners in the middle of the engine. Are them two rods bent ? Their on the same stroke .. more than likely. Peace of mind after all the hard work taken it apart. Is their liners in it ??
If those liners need replacing You’ve to take out your engine get those liners machined out and have new ones pressed in , so get ready to split it in 3 , steering pipes are an absolute pain but they can be got from the inside of the cab through the small inspection plate
Some crazy people working in ford
You might have a problem with the gudgeon pins on those 2 pistons.
Jack below the sump wheel the front out with a bar and a pin in it through the front towing eye on the weight block and set on stand below 4wd drop box
There isn't many fellas have had to touch the engine of a 40 series ford, lad near me has a 7840 and the cab, bonnet etc is all stunk rotten from salt water, she has been around the clock 3 times on the one engine and it wasn't for the tlc she got from him 😂
I have a 7840
What bullshit 😆
Hard to believe that we’ve a 7840 an 8340 from new an both engines went round 15 thousand hours. An they where always looked after, ect oil an filters….. there great tractors tho👌
U have no fear heading straight for the deapend
When the heads off be sure to check the valve guides they're known to wear bad
A pipe for them tractors are very expensive what we did I was put in a new piece why the hole was
That looks like torcher.😩😩😩
Did he know about the engine problem when he bought the tractor?
we used threaded bar , take out the bolts holding the engine block to the front tombstone and put inn two (as long as possible) pieces of thick threaded bar with a nut on each end then roll the front axle forward till allow you to get at the sump bolts, we also used a trolley jack to support
Think you need to split the tractor to rebuild an engine..
No
To change the hydraulic hoses is painful but manageable you take up the floor of the tractor and take off the pannel around the steering wheel and take the pipes off. Takes awhile to get the pipes on and off but we managed
Was she the tractor that went on the ferry
No that was the 8340
@@conorfox6303 not too bad
👍👍🙏🙏🇮🇪🇮🇪