TASCAM Teardown and USB Repair - LFC
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.พ. 2024
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I would suggest the owner use a magnetic usb connector and cable. Once the magnetic plug is in device the user can just magnetically connect the usb to the computer or charger.
Make sure to get the magnetic connector/cable set that also does data as some only do power.
I have them on many of my devices and they work great.
Thanks! I have the DR-100MkII, which is a slightly later version with a removable SDCard for storage. Battery life driving the phantom power is not great so I normally use a power supply.
I am in awe. My Bluetooth headphones have died and I bought a replacement battery with leads attached. Rather than mess about with the board I cut the old one out and have tried soldering the leads together, my hand shakes live I've got bloody Parkinson's 😂
Hahaha I know the feeling back in the day. Just keep soldering and before you know it your hands will become a lot more steady. Take a deep breath, have some confidence and do it. As soon as you worry your confidence drops and your hands will be a mess. Then your heart rate starts pounding and boom you’re done for the day lol.
@@shiftctrlhackYep - If you have not soldered anything for a while, your hands will become less steady. Aging adds to it of course. I am almost 69 and had to do some "rehearsal" to get my soldering tip rock steady again. The good news is that you will get your steady hand again in a relatively short time. I must admit I was a bit shocked that being "out of the loop" for a period can lead to such unsteady hands tough. Well - It's a indication that you have to practice every now and then to keep your abilities up to snuff...🙂
Those ports can be a pain. Next time hit it with 250-275 c low air speed while using your soldering iron. That extra heat will make the solder flow without an issue from your soldering iron without increasing your tip temp too high. You can always dab a hot glue stick around the port for support. It will really make huge difference supporting that port.
Good job and great video ! Thank you.
i would have changed the thermal paste
Connecting a Mac or PC using the USB port can enable this device to be used as an audio interface, which can be a big blessing while in the move 😊 I guess that could be one of the reasons why your friend may want the port repaired.
Nice work on a battle scarred veteran! Looks as if this was one of the 2016 releases.
Sir, sunteți adorabil, mă uit cu deosebită placere la videoclipurile dumneavoastră. Vă admir foarte mult pentru tot ceea ce faceți și pentru calmitatea de care dispuneți. Sunteți un maestru! Vă urmaresc videoclipurile din România. Cu stimă deosebită! Mulțumesc pentru tot ceea ce faceți pentru noi amatorii de rând! RESPECT deosebit!
This TASCAM look like from Blade Runner. 😎✌🏻
Tuscan's are great devices, my DR05 still works great, even better with a Rode mic.
Nice work, well done.
6:26 I think that's just input coupling capacitors / resistors for the two inputs (2 per input each). There'll be a boost converter elsewhere, which are a very common thing nowadays as any USB audio interface needs one. And yes, it's 48 V at a fairly modest maximum of 10 mA, with most mics being well short of that (maybe 4 mA).
Great to see your skills applied outside just PCs.
A satisfying repair to watch and enjoy. Thank you for sharing! Loved it.
Those SMD micro-USB ports were just a plague weren't they, wonder how much e-waste was created by them. Found in everything from the cheapest tat to the very high end...
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
With only front anchor points, the usb port will rock and rip off the rear pins from the pads, seen it happen and it will happen. You always need rears as well or they just don't have enough support with just fronts and the pins.
Brilliant, great repair
That thing literally can tell stories
I bought one of these for my younger brother when he started doing filming jobs, easy backup audio feed if you ever lose your main mic signal.
"if this thing could tell stories" - isnt that exacly what it does?! ;)
What a cool recorder. Time flies while watching these videos, many thanks.
Quality electronics are beautiful, and so much better than cheap consumer stuff.
That is Usb shield. Mostly 0.1 uf to shield to gnd and signal gnd connects to usb shield on 2 points with 0 ohm jumper
I hope you found that little silver plastic piece that flew off when getting the back cover off 😁
Nice repair
It's even more interesting when it has sentimental value. What about hot/UV glue to fix the port even better? Any downsides? Tricky but marvelous job there, thanks for sharing
A glue stick with some hot air makes a huge difference on port replacements. Any and all I work on I make sure to use on them. Some of the USB C / HDMI ports really don’t have much holding them in and using a glue stick really cements them in. Also hot glue is super easy and quick to remove. No mess at all.
@@shiftctrlhack That's what I wanted to read, thanks for your confirmation
Not a problem :) Spread the knownledge to everyone you know. The only way stuff will get fixed and fixec correct.@@deedeelabricolade
I would have soldered all 4 anchor points.
That capacitor looks a little iffy between D16 and 5v USB pin.
I probably would have put a drop of glue on the back of the USB port, Just because I would want it to be a strong as possible.
Some hot air and a glue stick really does work well. It can be the difference for a job that would come back in 6 months due to poor design vs never seeing the device again.
Excellent.
18:00: Not that I know stuff but I think the "ground-to-ground" cap is there because it's 2 different grounds. The one on the pin is signal ground (reference point for the circuit and return path for the current). The other one is chassis ground which is only for shielding. From what I've read, in theory, you should keep those grounds separate and never have current flowing through the chassis ground. Which seems to be what Tascam is doing here. In practice, they're almost always tied together anyway, so I wonder how much it actually matters. But I guess when you're making professional audio equipment and charge a premium for it, you want to eliminate any potential interference. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
you did it!
Huh. Looking at the case and not knowing anything about this kind of device I wouldn't have expected there to be that much circuitry inside.
Did a similar repair myself recently. Managed to accidentally rip the USB port off of my soldering microscope, and had to replace it. I don't use USB data very much with my microscope (the picture is VERY laggy) but it is required to power it and to charge its built-in battery. Of course this presented a bit of a problem, how am I supposed to solder when my soldering microscope is unavailable? Somehow I was able to manage though. Not my best soldering, but it got the job done. You can buy really nice kits that have an assortment of different shapes/styles of USB ports, and they are pretty inexpensive. I was able to find an exact match for the port that I broke off my microscope.
pre-tinning the 4 usb body points would have been a good idea. The user had broken the original with 5 anchor points - you are hoping 2 will work!
Factory soldering on anchors like that is pretty worthless for mechanical strength, the four outer anchors would have basically been tacked on, not properly solder-blobbed, and they probably let go as soon as the middle anchor ripped off the board.
I was nervous for some of the repair, but you did an amazing job!
@somewaresim: At times I felt that same sensation... Or maybe worse, that is, similar to when I go up to the top floor of a skyscraper, I look down and the next second all I want to do is go back... and YEAH, Graham was great .
y no soldaste el pin en los 2 puntos de atras a la placa, no lo puedo creer, tampoco reparaste abajo del pin en el frente la plaqueta
The cap on the left top side above the usb port looked shot and with almost missing one side, I was almost sure you're gonna test it to see if it needs replacing
Yea corner was chipped, but if it was absolutely dead I'd expect it to have failed short.
that looks well used Graham
I understand that you are used to that microscope, but, try a binocular / simul focal microscope, please! You will find another world!!!!
A very nice repair, but easy access? The last time i had a expensive thingy too repair i had too cut through layers off silicon crap.
Should've called the video "how not to solder" 🤣 Just kidding
My Ozone repair video part 1 has just been uploaded.
Ich habe so ein Gerät noch nie gesehen
Keep trying that's all I can say... I still love you!
flux bro!flux!
there is no enough heat in the pad
Graham could not also use that glue that goes hard under a lamp to make it more secure?
That doesn't really add a lot of strength. The main utility of it is just to protect a repair job, especially if that repair leaves signal traces very exposed.
Damn never use metal tools when removing batteries
That was an awkward job
It doesn't seem like this bent t210 tip is the proper one for this work don't you think?
Flux is your Friend
It looks... solid.... but, will it play Doom?
Thats a very poor solder job there..
You know it, i know it.. and you can and have done better..
Also i only use C tips. they come in multiple sizes you dont need anything else only the correct sized one.
If you would just invest in a proper soldering station like the Metcal MX500 or MX5200 and a variety of tips you would not have so many problems soldering. Watching you and so many others struggle at this is because you and so many others are using those cheap Chinese pencils and stations!
You didn't replace the micro USB with an USB-C, which would be better."
That would require very detailed re-wiring of the pins, making the job significantly more expensive. Type-C is not pin to pin compatible with Micro B.
comprate un cautin c210 amigo, y deja de sufrir
"These things are meant to be serviceable". Then proceeds to spend 20 mins taking it apart. lol
I hate those kind of repairs. Seems like it will be a 5 minute easy job. Actually needs a degree in mechanical engineering and 3 weeks! lol
a bad workman always blames his tool/tools ?
its weird when ppl have fuzz instead of hair.