THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SUCH DETAILED VIDEOS! Using them, I was able to do absolutely all the work that was necessary without unnecessary errors and problems!
Hi would like to ask do you know how to align the gear connector? when I installing the rs660 Rearset, I didn’t mark it and accidentally removed the gear connector.
Does the spider rearsets come with two different shift rod lengths because Aprilia does sell Aprilia Racing branded spider rearsets and they do?and do they come with any instructions for installation or oem placement,for example gillies tooling rearsets have specific numbers for each position including oem position?
@@ALFAVITAGA and do they come with any instructions for installation or oem placement,for example gillies tooling rearsets have specific numbers for each position including oem position?
@@ALFAVITAGA awesome thank you im definitely installing themes on my rs 660 and thanks for your amazing instructional style vlog content you were one of the people that actually inspired me to get my rs 660 and I don’t regret it it’s smooth and responsive and precise it loves to lean like a race bike fricking arrow o and of course cruiiise control yeah baby 😂👍🏻hope to see more videos soon I wonder if you’re taking a break or it’s getting exhausting or expensive or maybe California is to coold to ride for now without needing to winterize your motorcycle
@@Chandlerd17 Thank you I appreciate that! The RS660 is a breeze to ride. It’s been crazy in Los Angeles the last 4 months. Cold weather and rain like never before. But riding season is about to start and more videos are coming ✌️
Not looking to change my rear sets but looking to change the rear brake lever as mine is bent do I have follow the same process of taking the whole rear set off? Thanks
No. You should be able to remove the brake lever without removing the whole rear set. Worst case scenario, if you need some space between the exhaust and brake lever to wrench, you can always push the swingarm axle out, just enough to have the right rear set loose. But I’m sure you wont need to do all that. You should be fine. ✌️
I was told I could just use a piece of rebar to keep the swing arm aligned ( as you take the bolt out you slide the rebar in and vise versa ) what do you think about that
There are a few reasons for using aftermarket reasets. Adjustability is one. You can position the foot pegs to your preference, to give you the best knee grip position on the tank when cornering. Another big reason is that if you lowside and the stock rearsets break, you must replace the entire set as a whole which makes it time consuming or it can even increase the cost of labor if you are not replacing them yourself. Also stock rearset availability can be limited and can leave you without a bike for a while. With the Spider rearsets, if you go down all you need to do is order the spare part that broke and replace it in minutes. Some track riders even purchase spare parts to keep on hand, to be able to return on track the same day. The reason is that they just look so much better ✌️
9 out of 10 RS660’s have squeaky rear brakes. After enough usage of the rear brake the squeaking should go away. Mine went away but sometimes it still squeaks. Use it more than you do for a while. Most people think they use the rear brake but in reality they barely use it. Brake earlier so that you can come to a full stop, using almost only rear brake. In other words overuse the rear brake for a while and the squeaking should go away. If not, then the obvious solution is new brake pads and/or rotor.
I am looking to follow your method to install Extreme Components rearsets on mine. I was wondering if you remember how tall that step ladder that you used was? I am looking at renting a step ladder and was wondering if a 6ft. one would suffice?
The height of the ladder does not matter as much as the height of the center connecting chain does. In theory a 5ft ladder with no connecting chain would work. But there is no ladder without a connecting chain so a 6ft minimum height ladder is required. I believe the one I used is 6ft.
@@ALFAVITAGA thank you so much for replying! Also want to say that your videos are super helpful, man. Thank you for making such wonderful and helpful videos for all.
Im not sure what you mean by maintenance stand, but if you mean a rear stand then the answer is no. Anything that is used to hold the bike up, it has to leave the swingarm free moving.
Hi , I have question that your spider rearset is much more towards the back wheel. At the 29:52 mark of the video, it even blocks the black section on the rear swingarm . but at this video th-cam.com/video/oyLiQR4KN-A/w-d-xo.html it looks not that backward is there different version spider rearset?
hi there, i tried the stock rs660 and found it too comfortable and the suspensions feel too soft. with race rearsets, triple clamp and OEM suspension on sport setting, is it better?
For me the number one upgrade that I need on an RS660 is to lower the triple clamp and clip ons. The stock handlebars are too tall for my style of riding. When I changed the stock rearsets with racing rearsets it didn’t make much difference to be honest and I struggled to ride it at first as the Spider rearsets that I chose have short pegs and I couldn’t get a good foot grip. Now depending on your weight and skill the stock suspension might be just fine if set properly. But even with all the adjustments the RS660 will always be a more “comfortable” bike compared to the other 600 options.
I’m currently running standard shift but at some point I will switch to GP as I’ve been told that if I switch to GP I won’t want to go back to standard. I know one big reason that I want to change to GP. On a left turn while leaning, I cannot place my foot under the shifter to upshift, as it will scrape on the road. I find myself sometimes in a position where I want to shift up, but I can’t as Im in a left lean. Its also faster to up shift while pushing down. Fast up shifts are more important than fast downshifts in racing. But on the street this is not very common. If anything I believe that its better to have standard shift on a street bike for a few reasons. One is that at a traffic light its faster to go into first gear by pushing down rather than lifting up. Also I believe that fast downshifts are more important on the street for emergency braking slowing down faster. But I also believe in consistency. So if you track your bike on GP shift it would be better to stick to GP shift on the road too. Only for muscle memory. But if you never track and you never push the bike hard enough on the street where you would need to up shift on a turn, then standard would be best for the street. I will do a review of the two once I change.
Thanks for the reply, I'm going to try GP shift this week. I tested it this weekend for a few laps around the neighborhood and it felt more natural. I'm also one of the weirdos that has to invert settings for gameplay up is down for example. Playing first person shooters for example, I have to push up to look down. So the GP shift makes more sense in my mental gymnastics. I will say though, the emergency braking on the street is the only concern I've had even thinking through it, it was even best into our group during my last motorcycle class. Smashing down to avoid rear ending someone will always be faster. I guess both modes have their pros and cons. I look forward to seeing your review after you test. As always, thanks and ride safe 🤜🤛
Hey Mike, been following you for a couple months. I live in Istanbul and thinking about buying the RS660 Stars and Stripe edition tomorrow. There are several topics on oil leak problem. I am concerned about it. Have you ever faced it on your or your friends' bikes? Ride safe buddy.
Thanks for following! I have no issues with mine. No oil leaks. But I know of cases where some people got oil seepage. The solution to that was to tighten the engine bolts to the correct torque specs. 9/10 times the screws were loose and tightening them resolved the issues. I wouldn’t stress too much about it. The bike is under warranty. What I would do is ask the dealer if they can inspect the torque on the engine bolts. If they can’t, and I’m guessing they wont, and you have the ability to do so, do it yourself. If you don’t have a torque wrench and you don’t feel comfortable checking the screws yourself, don’t do it as those screws need to be tightened in a specific pattern and at a very specific low torque. A slight mistake can over tighten a screw and you can either strip it or even cause an oil seepage from an uneven torque pattern. At that point its best to leave it as is and rely on your warranty if needed. But you have to understand that there are very few cases with oil leaks and issues. The problem is that no one talks about the positive things about the bike, they only talk about the negatives and that makes it seem as if everyone is getting leaks. You should be fine! Enjoy your purchase and ride safe!
My top speed is restricted to 235km/h due to the gearing I have. I have a rear 47 tooth sprocket and regardless of any power increases the speed can never go higher than 235km/h. But it reaches 235km/h faster than it did before. Top speed doesn’t really matter to me as much as how fast I can get to that speed. Most tracks don’t have long enough straights to even exceed 200km/h. And for the street there are really not many places that you would need to go over 200km/h. Therefore, in most cases, acceleration is more important than top speed.
@@ALFAVITAGA i understand i feel the same i just wanted to see if those improvements affected the maximum speed directly or if it was just a "power delivery" thing. its a big improvement either way!
@@emesrs It definitely affected the power delivery regardless of the sprocket change. It increased horsepower throughout the rev range but it also increased torque. The velocity stacks also improved torque on low and mid range, which is what they are meant to do. I dynoed the bike before I installed the velocity stacks, and I will dyno it again now with the stacks to see the numbers.
You don’t “really” need that specific rod, but you do need something to keep the swingarm aligned due to the rear shock pressure. Ideally if the bike is in the air and the rear shock is removed, you don’t need any rod. But I wouldn’t remove the shock just to replace the rearsets. Easier to just use a rod. ✌️
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR SUCH DETAILED VIDEOS! Using them, I was able to do absolutely all the work that was necessary without unnecessary errors and problems!
I’m glad my videos helped you brother! ✌️
btw i love your videos your english is very clear and your explanations super easy to follow!
Thank you I appreciate that! Considering that English is not my first language. ✌️
Great explanation !! Thanks
You are welcome! ✌️
Hi would like to ask do you know how to align the gear connector? when I installing the rs660 Rearset, I didn’t mark it and accidentally removed the gear connector.
I wouldn’t worry too much about it. Eyeball it and you should be fine ✌️
Does the spider rearsets come with two different shift rod lengths because Aprilia does sell Aprilia Racing branded spider rearsets and they do?and do they come with any instructions for installation or oem placement,for example gillies tooling rearsets have specific numbers for each position including oem position?
The Spider rearsets I received had only one shift rod not two.
@@ALFAVITAGA and do they come with any instructions for installation or oem placement,for example gillies tooling rearsets have specific numbers for each position including oem position?
@@Chandlerd17 They do.
@@ALFAVITAGA awesome thank you im definitely installing themes on my rs 660 and thanks for your amazing instructional style vlog content you were one of the people that actually inspired me to get my rs 660 and I don’t regret it it’s smooth and responsive and precise it loves to lean like a race bike fricking arrow o and of course cruiiise control yeah baby 😂👍🏻hope to see more videos soon I wonder if you’re taking a break or it’s getting exhausting or expensive or maybe California is to coold to ride for now without needing to winterize your motorcycle
@@Chandlerd17 Thank you I appreciate that! The RS660 is a breeze to ride. It’s been crazy in Los Angeles the last 4 months. Cold weather and rain like never before. But riding season is about to start and more videos are coming ✌️
Not looking to change my rear sets but looking to change the rear brake lever as mine is bent do I have follow the same process of taking the whole rear set off? Thanks
No. You should be able to remove the brake lever without removing the whole rear set. Worst case scenario, if you need some space between the exhaust and brake lever to wrench, you can always push the swingarm axle out, just enough to have the right rear set loose. But I’m sure you wont need to do all that. You should be fine. ✌️
I was told I could just use a piece of rebar to keep the swing arm aligned ( as you take the bolt out you slide the rebar in and vise versa ) what do you think about that
I guess skipping threw the video doesn't help, lol you literally did this lol. Good video
@@noiceb5655 Lol all good 👌 Thank you!
What is the advantage of using an aftermarket rearset vs stock ones?
There are a few reasons for using aftermarket reasets. Adjustability is one. You can position the foot pegs to your preference, to give you the best knee grip position on the tank when cornering. Another big reason is that if you lowside and the stock rearsets break, you must replace the entire set as a whole which makes it time consuming or it can even increase the cost of labor if you are not replacing them yourself. Also stock rearset availability can be limited and can leave you without a bike for a while. With the Spider rearsets, if you go down all you need to do is order the spare part that broke and replace it in minutes. Some track riders even purchase spare parts to keep on hand, to be able to return on track the same day. The reason is that they just look so much better ✌️
Awesome video…Love the detail ✊🏽. Question I have a squeaky rear break…any ideas outside of changing the rear brakes? Thx 👍🏽
9 out of 10 RS660’s have squeaky rear brakes. After enough usage of the rear brake the squeaking should go away. Mine went away but sometimes it still squeaks. Use it more than you do for a while. Most people think they use the rear brake but in reality they barely use it. Brake earlier so that you can come to a full stop, using almost only rear brake. In other words overuse the rear brake for a while and the squeaking should go away. If not, then the obvious solution is new brake pads and/or rotor.
Thank you.
I am looking to follow your method to install Extreme Components rearsets on mine. I was wondering if you remember how tall that step ladder that you used was? I am looking at renting a step ladder and was wondering if a 6ft. one would suffice?
The height of the ladder does not matter as much as the height of the center connecting chain does. In theory a 5ft ladder with no connecting chain would work. But there is no ladder without a connecting chain so a 6ft minimum height ladder is required. I believe the one I used is 6ft.
@@ALFAVITAGA thank you so much for replying! Also want to say that your videos are super helpful, man. Thank you for making such wonderful and helpful videos for all.
@@ekolteenarp Thank you I really appreciate it! ✌️
Can it be installed with a maintenance stand instead of a stepladder?
Im not sure what you mean by maintenance stand, but if you mean a rear stand then the answer is no. Anything that is used to hold the bike up, it has to leave the swingarm free moving.
Hi , I have question that your spider rearset is much more towards the back wheel.
At the 29:52 mark of the video, it even blocks the black section on the rear swingarm .
but at this video th-cam.com/video/oyLiQR4KN-A/w-d-xo.html it looks not that backward
is there different version spider rearset?
@@cleverblue26 I watched both videos and they look the same to me. But to answer your question, there is only one version of these rear sets. ✌️
hi there, i tried the stock rs660 and found it too comfortable and the suspensions feel too soft. with race rearsets, triple clamp and OEM suspension on sport setting, is it better?
For me the number one upgrade that I need on an RS660 is to lower the triple clamp and clip ons. The stock handlebars are too tall for my style of riding. When I changed the stock rearsets with racing rearsets it didn’t make much difference to be honest and I struggled to ride it at first as the Spider rearsets that I chose have short pegs and I couldn’t get a good foot grip. Now depending on your weight and skill the stock suspension might be just fine if set properly. But even with all the adjustments the RS660 will always be a more “comfortable” bike compared to the other 600 options.
Love it 👌
Thank you!! Well overdue install.. ✌️
Are you running GP shift or standard? Any reason why one vs. the other?
I’m currently running standard shift but at some point I will switch to GP as I’ve been told that if I switch to GP I won’t want to go back to standard. I know one big reason that I want to change to GP. On a left turn while leaning, I cannot place my foot under the shifter to upshift, as it will scrape on the road. I find myself sometimes in a position where I want to shift up, but I can’t as Im in a left lean. Its also faster to up shift while pushing down. Fast up shifts are more important than fast downshifts in racing. But on the street this is not very common. If anything I believe that its better to have standard shift on a street bike for a few reasons. One is that at a traffic light its faster to go into first gear by pushing down rather than lifting up. Also I believe that fast downshifts are more important on the street for emergency braking slowing down faster. But I also believe in consistency. So if you track your bike on GP shift it would be better to stick to GP shift on the road too. Only for muscle memory. But if you never track and you never push the bike hard enough on the street where you would need to up shift on a turn, then standard would be best for the street. I will do a review of the two once I change.
Thanks for the reply, I'm going to try GP shift this week. I tested it this weekend for a few laps around the neighborhood and it felt more natural. I'm also one of the weirdos that has to invert settings for gameplay up is down for example. Playing first person shooters for example, I have to push up to look down. So the GP shift makes more sense in my mental gymnastics. I will say though, the emergency braking on the street is the only concern I've had even thinking through it, it was even best into our group during my last motorcycle class. Smashing down to avoid rear ending someone will always be faster. I guess both modes have their pros and cons. I look forward to seeing your review after you test. As always, thanks and ride safe 🤜🤛
What’s your rear seat cowl ? I don’t find…
m.aliexpress.us/item/3256804950912167.html?ug_edm_item_id=1005005137226919&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21EUR%21€%2055%2C57%21€%2049%2C46%21%21%21%21%21%400b89a67e16763426042303163efa03%2112000031811098493%21edm&tracelog=rowan&rowan_id1=waiting_to_leave_feedback_20220522_1_en_US_2023-02-13&rowan_msg_id=4510816189046108%24538987bf2fa94e039e20e025d558dc24&ck=in_edm_other&gatewayAdapt=gloPc2usaMsite4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
why dont just use an liftarm for the rear so the tire is in the air?
@@igorboyka4757 You want the tire to touch the ground a little bit, so the weight is removed from the swingarm pivot axle.
Hey Mike, been following you for a couple months. I live in Istanbul and thinking about buying the RS660 Stars and Stripe edition tomorrow. There are several topics on oil leak problem. I am concerned about it. Have you ever faced it on your or your friends' bikes? Ride safe buddy.
Thanks for following! I have no issues with mine. No oil leaks. But I know of cases where some people got oil seepage. The solution to that was to tighten the engine bolts to the correct torque specs. 9/10 times the screws were loose and tightening them resolved the issues. I wouldn’t stress too much about it. The bike is under warranty. What I would do is ask the dealer if they can inspect the torque on the engine bolts. If they can’t, and I’m guessing they wont, and you have the ability to do so, do it yourself. If you don’t have a torque wrench and you don’t feel comfortable checking the screws yourself, don’t do it as those screws need to be tightened in a specific pattern and at a very specific low torque. A slight mistake can over tighten a screw and you can either strip it or even cause an oil seepage from an uneven torque pattern. At that point its best to leave it as is and rely on your warranty if needed. But you have to understand that there are very few cases with oil leaks and issues. The problem is that no one talks about the positive things about the bike, they only talk about the negatives and that makes it seem as if everyone is getting leaks. You should be fine! Enjoy your purchase and ride safe!
@@ALFAVITAGAI appreciate the feedback. Thank you buddy. I will try to take care of it. Cheers🍀
bro just asking, where'd you get that aftermarket seat from?
I got it from Luimoto. Here is the link for it. www.luimoto.com/?my=654&p=1253
@@ALFAVITAGA thx man. Love your riding vids
@@asifarif_ Thanks man! The weather is about to get better, I will upload more riding vids. ✌️
@@ALFAVITAGA looking forward to it💪🏻
what is the top speed now after the v stacks and all the improvementsyou’ve made? sorry for my english im spanish hahahah
My top speed is restricted to 235km/h due to the gearing I have. I have a rear 47 tooth sprocket and regardless of any power increases the speed can never go higher than 235km/h. But it reaches 235km/h faster than it did before. Top speed doesn’t really matter to me as much as how fast I can get to that speed. Most tracks don’t have long enough straights to even exceed 200km/h. And for the street there are really not many places that you would need to go over 200km/h. Therefore, in most cases, acceleration is more important than top speed.
@@ALFAVITAGA i understand i feel the same i just wanted to see if those improvements affected the maximum speed directly or if it was just a "power delivery" thing. its a big improvement either way!
@@emesrs It definitely affected the power delivery regardless of the sprocket change. It increased horsepower throughout the rev range but it also increased torque. The velocity stacks also improved torque on low and mid range, which is what they are meant to do. I dynoed the bike before I installed the velocity stacks, and I will dyno it again now with the stacks to see the numbers.
👌👌👌
✌️
Do you really need that steel rod?
You don’t “really” need that specific rod, but you do need something to keep the swingarm aligned due to the rear shock pressure. Ideally if the bike is in the air and the rear shock is removed, you don’t need any rod. But I wouldn’t remove the shock just to replace the rearsets. Easier to just use a rod. ✌️
🕷🕷🕷♥
💪🕷️✌️