Thanks for sharing your video and posting the safety concerns when operating such a device. Safety can never be overdone on DIY projects such as yours. Looking forward to your other videos.
BRAVO......I have a 50 x 100 "Barndominium" and need a lift like you have built to access and store stuff on the second story. Now I know just how I'm going to do it. Thx, TBoone
There are many very similar video's out there on this subject. Most of them use the Harbor Freight hoist. I personally am planning on doing the same thing but I have little or no trust in anything Harbor Freight sells. Many people claim these hoists have a lifting capacity lbs. but that likely isn't true. It has a pulling capacity which is doubled if the snatch block is used. This arraignment does not double the lifting capacity of the cable itself. I have used one of these hoists a few times for very light lifting jobs and the cables are already frayed. I may use it for this application but the cable will be changed out to aircraft grade prior to the project. For those contemplating doing this, I would search out the video where an arresting life line is included just in case something like the cheap Chinese cable should fail.
Awesome lift...cozy shop. I wish I have the skills to build a lift...but I am no handyman... Maybe someday I will gather the energy and do one...thanks for sharing
I actually made and shared a diagram of how I did this before. Here's a link to the image file! www.blastworks.net/uploads/cutting_and_supporting_trusses.png
Question for you, or anyone who's done something similar. I've never seen those rails + wheels in person. How stable is the "floor" surface. In my case I'm looking to build a custom, height adjustable desk, that will have 4+ large monitors hanging off of it (200lbs of monitors and arms). If you raised your platform to desk height does it feel stable ? Or do you notice "play" in the rail + wheel areas that would cause everything to move around everytime you go to rest your arms on the desktop (aka your elevator floor). Thanks for taking the time to show us this! I also plan to install one in this same manner in my garage space and your details here helped answer some questions I had for that project!
Hey Brandon! Not sure what kind of arms and monitors you plan on using but 200lbs is crazy heavy in my experience for that type of gear! That being said... When I load my lift up with 400 - 500 lbs, I try to keep things centered and as near the back as possible. It's been solid to this point and I'm 6 years on at this point. If your lift would be more shallow, then the rotational moment would be even less (monitors and arms aren't that deep, right?) so I'd think it would be fine. Ultimately, I'm not a mechanical engineer, so take anything I say with a grain of salt!
wrap a chain, or a towing strap around around the cross beam where your U bolt is then hook it to the lift for redundancy. If your U bolt breaks the chain has it. I have a 3000 pound strap around mine... I feel a lot better because welds to break. : ) Nice build my friend.
You are apparently a professional builder if you got 1 of those fancy ass plywood cutters that you have to enter the cuts!! Holy crap man lol, but I’m implementing the basic structure that you built & totally red necking the rest lol
Perfect. Thanks for directing me here from previous video. I'll definitely would be building one. I too have a motorcycle lift, shop press and other tools I can put up in the attic and out of my way when not in use.
Hey thanks bro you did a great job and explaining it very thorough so God can continue to bless you and your loved ones and remember no more roof adventures haha
Regarding fall hazard, possibly place reachable bolts through each track above head height to catch the platform in the event of failure then just remove them when in use.
Thanks a lot Jack! It definitely helps to have the space up top! When I drew up the plans for my garage I had the trusses built specifically to give me the space I needed up top for storage, so that was a huge help!
It would be really cool if you could install a limit switch, similar to what can be found on a CNC machine, to automatically stop the lift when it gets to your desired height.
Hey Pagan! Things like this are in the works for an upgrade in the near future! I actually plan on upgrading the hoist and some frame elements, and I may even give away the current hoist to one of my subscribers for a 2000 sub giveaway. Stay tuned!
Because it has to fit through the ceiling, why did you not make a fence around the three sides of the lift? It wouldn't have to be there for strength but in case something wanted to tip over on the way up that you couldn't see. 1/4-inch plywood would work or aluminum sheet with hinges on the front side for loading. Where do you put the control switch when you don't go up with the lift?
What if the thing that tipped over was taller than the fence? It'd still get caught on the way up. The control switch just hangs down though the gap on the left side when the lift is up and I'm down bottom.
Good day sir, well done on the project and video. I am in the process of making one very similar. Would you be able to share which track dollies your are using and how they have been working and how long. I found mixed reviews when researching this item. Thank you for any assistance you can provide.
@@blastworks Thank you very much for the prompt reply, very much appreciated! I found that you originally used two-wheel dollies and noted you were considering changing but they work fine. I could not find the link to the trolley and parts. Did you change up the dollies and would you be able to share the link to parts, please? My apologies for being unable to find the link.
@@garylindow9755 You can find the links to the channel and trolleys in the video description on this video linked here: th-cam.com/video/kjlZHgo2w-Q/w-d-xo.html
I wonder if two hoists can be used in parallel. Only putting 50% strain on each, having a redundant hoist and having two cables. Probably very hard to keep these hoists running in sync.
Love this!! Any difficulty in aligning the trolley wheels in the struts - you know parallel to each other after attaching trolley wheels to the platform? Tips to do that part right the first time?
Hey Deste! No issues at all! I measured center to center at the top of the rails, and also at the bottom of the rails to make sure they were the same distance apart, and then I just made sure my trolleys were installed on the lift frame that same distance apart!
So, if you're downstairs and lift it to ceiling height, the remote cable is just wedged between the lift and ceiling? I'm guessing there's enough gap, and the weather stripping makes up the difference.
That's correct NS Gearhead! There's about a half inch around the entire platform when it is up in the hole, so there is plenty of room for the cable to not get pinched there. On a side note, does the NS in your name mean Nova Scotia?
Unfortunately I'm not a civil/mechanical engineer so I would not be able to give you an accurate answer on this. All I know is that in my application, most of the load is downward on the cable/hoist and supporting beams, and not pulling outward on the unistrut.
The fall arrest system is a simple thing to do, just take inspiration from the old Otis system. The cost is negligible, you can do it in various ways. On the uphill slopes, make some gear-like steps also of wood, in the central fulcrum where the hook pulls the elevator, you will put your hook system. Practically when the cable pulls, thanks to the weight of the elevator, it releases your system that compresses the springs, and the two blocks are deactivated, sliding on the gears created, in case the elevator should suddenly go down the springs will release the hooks which will get stuck in the gears. It is difficult to put into words. Here is an example th-cam.com/video/sSjJjKcoNRk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Miguel! I ground the the heads of the bolts a little bit and the trolleys clear just fine! Check out my latest video as I am running a giveaway on a cable hoist!
This looks like it might be the answer to my prayers! Just need some info, a bit of help. I am recently disabled, can no longer climb or descend stairs, without a great deal of pain and a LOT of danger. Having just turned 66, fining myself unable to get to the 2nd floor where my bedroom and the full bath are, is a real life threatening and life altering situation. I really need to know, can this be adapted to life me approximately 9 feet straight up? From the floor of the family room to the floor of the open loft overlooking the family room? Once in the loft, I can get to the bedroom and full bath using my wheelchair. The problem is getting up that 9 feet. A chair lift, to go up stairs is really not an option for me. I need one of these. What do I need to do to make this safe for an old 66 year old disabled man to use abut 3 times a day to go up and down from the first floor the 2nd floor and back down? thanks in advance for any assistance you or your subscribers can offer!
JM NM I honestly wouldn’t recommend something like this for someone in your situation. There are much safer alternatives commercially available that would come with appropriate installation, service intervals, and warranty. This type of lift is more suited to lifting things like snowblowers and tires for storage. My lift probably only gets used a couple times a week max. Your frequency of usage would warrant a system built to handle just that as well.
@@blastworks Thanks for the response. Thing is, money always rules. While there may be more suitable options for a handicapped person, we do what we can with what we have. If I had the money, I would be looking at those other options. Things being what they are, here I am.
@@jmnm4894 I hear what you are saying JM. I'm going to assume that you are based in the US, as where I am located in Canada, and in a lot of 1st world countries, a good portion of such a mobility system would be covered under government provided medicare programs. There are also organizations designed to give financial assistance to people in your situation as well when it comes to mobility solutions for disabled persons. If you are able to get something put together like what I have done here, just be sure you have redundant safety measures in place. It may add to the cost of a project like this, but as you mention, it would be much more inexpensive than commercially available systems! Good luck, and be safe!
Hey! I can remove the chains and get something much longer on the platform if I wanted to raise it up to work on it but not lift it up into the attic. If there were pieces of tube steel welded in there, I would be restricted to the width between them.
HSS is defined as Hollow Structural Sections by the AISC (American Institute of Steel Construction), the authoritative resource for engineers and fabricators in the US. www.aisc.org/technical-resources/hss/
I did! It worked out such that I only had to cut one the width of the hole, which was then properly shored up against the other surrounding trusses with joist hangers and the like.
@@blastworks I'm currently looking at the same thing, but I'm hesitant to cut on a truss. I need to figure out the most secure way to brace it and keep the tension there.
@@BellyUpFishGarage Here's a rough image I just drew up, four different phases that are numbered. Note that the view is of three trusses from top down/bottom up. The following is how I did it. I am hosting it from my SSL secured website so it is safe for you to click. www.blastworks.net/uploads/cutting_and_supporting_trusses.png 1) The original 3 trusses after initial installation. 2) Supports installed between the trusses that will remain and the one I have to cut. 3) The piece of the truss that needs to be removed is cut out. 4) Two final support pieces spanning the entire depth of the hole linking the surrounding trusses and then pieces of the truss leftover after cutting directly together. This is what worked for me, and depending on how your trusses are, it may work for you. Ultimately, keep in mind that I am not a professional carpentry or structural engineer by any means, this is just how I did it in my case!
@@blastworks That’s basically what I’m going to do, with some small variations. Just got back a drawing from a structural engineer and it’s very similar to what you’ve done. Major difference I can see is that he suggested blocking up the joist prior to cutting, and then I’ll be tripling the sisters on either end of the cut. Thanks for the reply! Your elevator is the best I’ve seen and I’m planning on copying it pretty heavily. 😆
@@blastworks i Will try it like you make simple elevator, electric hoist ready but on my country so difficult to find canal C for roller track, thankyou so much for your inspiration...
With the right hoist, what are your thoughts on lifting a zero turn mower up to the attic? It's about 1100lbs. I am considering storing my mower out of the way during the wintertime. Most likely, to avoid stressing the joists, I'd keep the mower on the actual hoist platform. Thoughts?
Hey Ashlin. I think if you have some kind of pin system to keep the platform in place, similar to how 2 post car lifts do it, it may be possible. You'll likely want 3 or more rails as well. You're going to need to build a far more robust platform than the one I have, and you'll probably also want to go with a 1000kg cable hoist. Check out my latest video on my channel, I'm actually giving a hoist away next month!
Were any floor joists cut to make the hole big enough for the platform? Ive seen other styles that are 22 1/2' platform to fit between joists/rafters/whatever
The floor joists in this case are the bottom spans on the barn style trusses up above. I purposefully chopped out what was required to make the hole the size I wanted it to be!
Fantastic video and great work! Hoping you can help with a question as looking to utilize the same strut / trolleys but can’t figure out how you mounted the strut so that the Trollys still clear? Any info is much appreciated!
The cable fits between the lift and the hole. The gap on the left side of the lift is about a half inch, more than enough for the cable to hang down through.
It'd be easy enough to attach something to the cable at the right point, for sure. It's something I can look into for upgrade round 2! If you haven't see it, I have done an upgrade video to this lift already, and I'm also giving away a cable hoist. Feel free to check it out on my channel!
Seit dem Upgrade (siehe Upgrade-Video auf meinem Kanal) habe ich jetzt ein viel schwereres Kabel und einen schwereren Lift. Trotzdem ein Risiko, das ich bereit bin einzugehen!
@@blastworks Wenn ich den Lift nachbauen will, brauche ich mehr Sicherheit! ich denke an 2x Dachdecker Automatik - Gurte ?? denn wenn dein Seil reißt, gehts ab im freien Fall?
Just found your video. Awesome... gonna try and duplicate your setup. quick question on the dimensions... i got the 59" wide and 31" deep, what is the height ? Thanks man....
I believe it's roughly as tall as it is deep. The taller it is, the more spread out the moment of rotation will be on the rails as well. I think you'd be safe to make it as tall as it is deep, or maybe a little taller.
cool...thats what I figured as well. The elevator is in fabrication. I'll post a pic. “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.”- Oscar Wilde
It all starts somewhere Paul! My first build was a welder cart after I bought my welder, then a couple other smalls things, and once I felt I was putting down good enough welds, I took the plunge! Dive in!
You verbalize that your struts are Unistrut 1 5/8” channel, but when I click on the link it’s 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 channel. I’m just curious as to which is correct so that I can get the right stuff. I imagine it matters with the height of the trolleys. Can you clarify?
@@blastworks Yes, I’m sorry. I meant the picture of the strut that comes up inset into the video. That describes it as 1 3/8 x 1 5/8. I assume from your message, though, I need to order the product at the link. Thank you!!
Hey Blast... lift is just about complete. I just need to install the hoist. I have a question... I am concerned that the hoist cable isn't exactly centered horizontally over the lift. I'm offset about 3 inches. Is that a real problem? I'm concerned the hoist will be pulling the lift up at a slight angle putting some stress on the super-strut channels. thoughts? thanks brother
I tried to make sure mine was as centered as possible. If it just means loosening up the mounts for the hoist and adjusting, then I'd recommend it. Keep in mind, as the cable is wound up, it will move back and forth a few inches for sure as well, so if you are off center by a few inches, that could add up to 5-6 inches when the cable is winding back and forth on the reel!
@@blastworks Thanks brother... however I didn't explain it correctly. Im centered left/right over the lift, but I'm off a couple of inches fore / aft. I can't get the cross beam close enough to the back wall to be directly overtop the lifting point on the lift.
@@fasteddie4802 Now I'm picking up what you're laying down! I haven't experienced that specific case, but since you won't be pulling directly up, some of the force will pull outward on the channels, and this will increase the higher you go up on the lift as the angle between the cable and the plane of lift increases. I'd try to make sure that 1) the channels are anchored to the wall as well as you can anchor them, and 2) you don't exceed the maximum force the runners inside the channel are rated for. I know that you can get heavy duty ones from ebay (or even make yourself a set), and that the stock ones are only rated for something like 50lbs or some such. I'm sure it will work fine, but I'd recommend testing things out in a safe manner to confirm.
You might be able to add a pulley, or something like a roller, to pull the cable closer to the wall. It should be installed right above the attic's floor level. Unlike the hoist mount in your case, it can be installed much closer to the wall, or even in the wall cavity between two studs, if needed.
I did! There's really no other way to get up into the attic with enough space to move larger items, no? Maybe check out some carpentry/framing videos if you are looking for information on how to do that!
Nice lift but this definitely was not a detailed build video. Detailed would include measurements and exact dimensions of all materials and exact materials used in this build.
My apologies dickie, but this was never intended to be a detailed build video. It was recorded on a whim. If you'd like to see a really nice build, check out Wesley treats lift build video. It is absolutely amazing.
The platform itself is about 100lbs, so 880 - 100 would be the max it can lift. As mentioned in the video, the most I put on it is about half of that capacity.
That trolly you are using only has a 50 pound load rating. It’s going to break one day. I know of someone that fell 6 feet and is in a wheelchair the rest of their life now.
@@paulschaffner5796 the load is not on the trolleys, it's on the cable. The trolleys are just there to guide the lift and the lateral loads on them are negligible.
Hey Fred! I purchased the rails locally from an Acklands-Grainger type place. You can order it online as well, just do a quick google search for unistrut channel and you should get a ton of hits!
Lift was $149, steel for the frame was roughly $60, the unistrut channel and dollies ran me around $150, and the large 2x4 steel beam was about 100$. Toss on 50$ for odds and ends and you're in for around $500.
![Homemade Shop Attic Elevator [MAKES ME JEALOUS!] DIY Garage Elevator How To](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ltpFF-dPEzw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Homemade Shop Attic Elevator [MAKES ME JEALOUS!] DIY Garage Elevator How To](/img/tr.png)
It's giveaway time! Check the following link for the upgrade of this lift system and cable hoist giveaway!
th-cam.com/video/xWR-4qMtec0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for sharing your video and posting the safety concerns when operating such a device. Safety can never be overdone on DIY projects such as yours. Looking forward to your other videos.
Thanks Ted! I hope you enjoy them!
BRAVO......I have a 50 x 100 "Barndominium" and need a lift like you have built to access and store stuff on the second story. Now I know just how I'm going to do it.
Thx,
TBoone
That's awesome! I'm happy you've been inspired! Be sure to share when you start in on your project!
There are many very similar video's out there on this subject. Most of them use the Harbor Freight hoist. I personally am planning on doing the same thing but I have little or no trust in anything Harbor Freight sells. Many people claim these hoists have a lifting capacity lbs. but that likely isn't true. It has a pulling capacity which is doubled if the snatch block is used. This arraignment does not double the lifting capacity of the cable itself. I have used one of these hoists a few times for very light lifting jobs and the cables are already frayed. I may use it for this application but the cable will be changed out to aircraft grade prior to the project.
For those contemplating doing this, I would search out the video where an arresting life line is included just in case something like the cheap Chinese cable should fail.
Hey Joe, I hear your concerns! Like any type of DIY lifting system, there are inherent risks, and it is ultimately upon the user to accept those!
Absolutely brilliant young man. I’m looking at your Honda C70 and it brings back memories as it was my first motorcycle. Great job.
Hey Robert! Thanks a ton for your compliments and words of encouragement! It is greatly appreciated! I'm happy that you are enjoying the videos!
Awesome lift...cozy shop.
I wish I have the skills to build a lift...but I am no handyman...
Maybe someday I will gather the energy and do one...thanks for sharing
Thanks a bunch Tony!
Great project. I haven't seen any discussion on cutting through the joist in the garage ceiling and how that was accomplished.
I actually made and shared a diagram of how I did this before. Here's a link to the image file!
www.blastworks.net/uploads/cutting_and_supporting_trusses.png
Thank you so much for the detailed construction tutorial….very helpful
Hey Steve! I'm glad my video was useful to you Steve. Cheers!
Thanks for the video,very informative,especially helpful in regards to the downward load considerations.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice job. I'm going to copy your design! Plagerism is the best form of flattery!
Thanks for sharing.
I'm glad I could help!
Question for you, or anyone who's done something similar. I've never seen those rails + wheels in person. How stable is the "floor" surface. In my case I'm looking to build a custom, height adjustable desk, that will have 4+ large monitors hanging off of it (200lbs of monitors and arms). If you raised your platform to desk height does it feel stable ? Or do you notice "play" in the rail + wheel areas that would cause everything to move around everytime you go to rest your arms on the desktop (aka your elevator floor). Thanks for taking the time to show us this! I also plan to install one in this same manner in my garage space and your details here helped answer some questions I had for that project!
Hey Brandon! Not sure what kind of arms and monitors you plan on using but 200lbs is crazy heavy in my experience for that type of gear! That being said...
When I load my lift up with 400 - 500 lbs, I try to keep things centered and as near the back as possible. It's been solid to this point and I'm 6 years on at this point. If your lift would be more shallow, then the rotational moment would be even less (monitors and arms aren't that deep, right?) so I'd think it would be fine.
Ultimately, I'm not a mechanical engineer, so take anything I say with a grain of salt!
@@blastworks good to know thanks for the info !
wrap a chain, or a towing strap around around the cross beam where your U bolt is then hook it to the lift for redundancy. If your U bolt breaks the chain has it. I have a 3000 pound strap around mine... I feel a lot better because welds to break. : ) Nice build my friend.
Thanks Hip!
Great project very well explained. Merci
You are apparently a professional builder if you got 1 of those fancy ass plywood cutters that you have to enter the cuts!! Holy crap man lol, but I’m implementing the basic structure that you built & totally red necking the rest lol
Fuck yeah baby! That's the only way to do it brother!
Perfect. Thanks for directing me here from previous video. I'll definitely would be building one. I too have a motorcycle lift, shop press and other tools I can put up in the attic and out of my way when not in use.
Hey Art! I'm glad this helped you out!
Excellent lift.
Thanks!
Hey thanks bro you did a great job and explaining it very thorough so God can continue to bless you and your loved ones and remember no more roof adventures haha
Thanks for the kind works Rich!
Great build, you should draw a caution line on the first floor wall behind the lift to indicate a maximum height for loading..
That's a good idea!
Now I just gotta put an attic on my garage and I'm all set.
I've had a Honda 50 which is basically the earlier Passport for over 40 years now.
I love old Hondas!
VERY NICE!!! im thinking about adding one to my new shop
That sounds great Mark! Good luck with the project!
This is a neat and functional design, thanks for adding the part specs. I’m glad you added the notes for addressing the safety concerns.
@@thomaswmartin1266 Thanks for the great feedback Thomas. I appreciate it!
Thanks for sharing your build. Great job!
Thanks for the comment J!
Regarding fall hazard, possibly place reachable bolts through each track above head height to catch the platform in the event of failure then just remove them when in use.
Great idea Paul!
Love that motorcycle lift
Thanks a bunch!
Very Well Done. Great Video, very detailed. Thnx
Thanks Hoss!
nice job on explanation
Thanks Ted!
I want to do this but my attic is filled with trusses and I am not sure I can do it. Great instructions and video!
Thanks a lot Jack! It definitely helps to have the space up top! When I drew up the plans for my garage I had the trusses built specifically to give me the space I needed up top for storage, so that was a huge help!
Great project video.
Thanks Roy!
Great video! I am impressed!
Thanks Bob!
It would be really cool if you could install a limit switch, similar to what can be found on a CNC machine, to automatically stop the lift when it gets to your desired height.
Hey Pagan! Things like this are in the works for an upgrade in the near future! I actually plan on upgrading the hoist and some frame elements, and I may even give away the current hoist to one of my subscribers for a 2000 sub giveaway. Stay tuned!
And a adjustable workbench at the same time!👍 /Kanobels Förgasarservice
You got it!
Because it has to fit through the ceiling, why did you not make a fence around the three sides of the lift? It wouldn't have to be there for strength but in case something wanted to tip over on the way up that you couldn't see. 1/4-inch plywood would work or aluminum sheet with hinges on the front side for loading. Where do you put the control switch when you don't go up with the lift?
What if the thing that tipped over was taller than the fence? It'd still get caught on the way up. The control switch just hangs down though the gap on the left side when the lift is up and I'm down bottom.
top Job brother, well done. Cheers from Michael. Australia
Thank you, Mike!
Good day sir, well done on the project and video. I am in the process of making one very similar. Would you be able to share which track dollies your are using and how they have been working and how long. I found mixed reviews when researching this item. Thank you for any assistance you can provide.
Hey Gary, I provide a link to the channel and trolleys in one of my previous videos about my lift. You can find it on my channel under Videos!
@@blastworks Thank you very much for the prompt reply, very much appreciated! I found that you originally used two-wheel dollies and noted you were considering changing but they work fine. I could not find the link to the trolley and parts. Did you change up the dollies and would you be able to share the link to parts, please? My apologies for being unable to find the link.
@@garylindow9755 You can find the links to the channel and trolleys in the video description on this video linked here: th-cam.com/video/kjlZHgo2w-Q/w-d-xo.html
Good video
Thanks Tom!
I wonder if two hoists can be used in parallel. Only putting 50% strain on each, having a redundant hoist and having two cables. Probably very hard to keep these hoists running in sync.
Yeah, I like the idea 100%. I think the execution could be a bit tricky, but it is definitely doable!
Great job.
Thanks a lot Darrell! Glad you enjoyed it!
I love this, Thanks
Thanks a bunch Carl. Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video
Thanks Tim!
Gracias por la explicación ¡👌
ICOELTEX, Muchas gracias mi amigo!
Love this!! Any difficulty in aligning the trolley wheels in the struts - you know parallel to each other after attaching trolley wheels to the platform? Tips to do that part right the first time?
Hey Deste! No issues at all! I measured center to center at the top of the rails, and also at the bottom of the rails to make sure they were the same distance apart, and then I just made sure my trolleys were installed on the lift frame that same distance apart!
thank you .. really very useful, thank you .. if the intermittent rope breaks, will it fall? any anticipation for that? thank you
I don't have a safety catch built in, but it is something one could add if they wanted!
So, if you're downstairs and lift it to ceiling height, the remote cable is just wedged between the lift and ceiling? I'm guessing there's enough gap, and the weather stripping makes up the difference.
That's correct NS Gearhead! There's about a half inch around the entire platform when it is up in the hole, so there is plenty of room for the cable to not get pinched there.
On a side note, does the NS in your name mean Nova Scotia?
@@blastworks Certainly does! I'll be hopefully building a garage this year and this has become my favorite detail I hope to include.
@@wannabejeeper That's awesome, greetings from even further east in NL :)
i can not obtain 12 gauge unistrut here, only 14 gauge, for a 400 lbs 9 foot stuff elevator, would this be a risk versus 12 gauge?
Unfortunately I'm not a civil/mechanical engineer so I would not be able to give you an accurate answer on this. All I know is that in my application, most of the load is downward on the cable/hoist and supporting beams, and not pulling outward on the unistrut.
The fall arrest system is a simple thing to do, just take inspiration from the old Otis system.
The cost is negligible, you can do it in various ways.
On the uphill slopes, make some gear-like steps also of wood, in the central fulcrum where the hook pulls the elevator, you will put your hook system.
Practically when the cable pulls, thanks to the weight of the elevator, it releases your system that compresses the springs, and the two blocks are deactivated, sliding on the gears created, in case the elevator should suddenly go down the springs will release the hooks which will get stuck in the gears. It is difficult to put into words.
Here is an example th-cam.com/video/sSjJjKcoNRk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for your recommendation Jack!
Just what I needed. Do the metal trolleys clear bolts in unitstrut channels?
Hey Miguel! I ground the the heads of the bolts a little bit and the trolleys clear just fine! Check out my latest video as I am running a giveaway on a cable hoist!
This looks like it might be the answer to my prayers! Just need some info, a bit of help. I am recently disabled, can no longer climb or descend stairs, without a great deal of pain and a LOT of danger. Having just turned 66, fining myself unable to get to the 2nd floor where my bedroom and the full bath are, is a real life threatening and life altering situation. I really need to know, can this be adapted to life me approximately 9 feet straight up? From the floor of the family room to the floor of the open loft overlooking the family room?
Once in the loft, I can get to the bedroom and full bath using my wheelchair. The problem is getting up that 9 feet. A chair lift, to go up stairs is really not an option for me. I need one of these.
What do I need to do to make this safe for an old 66 year old disabled man to use abut 3 times a day to go up and down from the first floor the 2nd floor and back down?
thanks in advance for any assistance you or your subscribers can offer!
JM NM I honestly wouldn’t recommend something like this for someone in your situation. There are much safer alternatives commercially available that would come with appropriate installation, service intervals, and warranty.
This type of lift is more suited to lifting things like snowblowers and tires for storage. My lift probably only gets used a couple times a week max. Your frequency of usage would warrant a system built to handle just that as well.
@@blastworks Thanks for the response. Thing is, money always rules. While there may be more suitable options for a handicapped person, we do what we can with what we have. If I had the money, I would be looking at those other options. Things being what they are, here I am.
@@jmnm4894 I hear what you are saying JM. I'm going to assume that you are based in the US, as where I am located in Canada, and in a lot of 1st world countries, a good portion of such a mobility system would be covered under government provided medicare programs. There are also organizations designed to give financial assistance to people in your situation as well when it comes to mobility solutions for disabled persons.
If you are able to get something put together like what I have done here, just be sure you have redundant safety measures in place. It may add to the cost of a project like this, but as you mention, it would be much more inexpensive than commercially available systems!
Good luck, and be safe!
Thank you for your video. Question: As you are clearly good at welding, why did you chose to use the two chains instead of extra steel beams welded?
Hey! I can remove the chains and get something much longer on the platform if I wanted to raise it up to work on it but not lift it up into the attic. If there were pieces of tube steel welded in there, I would be restricted to the width between them.
@@blastworks Ah yes I understand. Thank you for the quick answer.
Nit picking a bit, but HSS is high speed steel, as are used in drills and machining. You mean hot-rolled steel.
Last time I checked, there wasn't a monopoly on acronyms! It also means hollow square stock or hollown structural steel where I come from!
@@blastworks I didn't realize that was what they call it in Canada
HSS is defined as Hollow Structural Sections by the AISC (American Institute of Steel Construction), the authoritative resource for engineers and fabricators in the US. www.aisc.org/technical-resources/hss/
@@lukemartin9209 My man!
Excellent build bro! However Your actual lifting capacity would be hoist total lifting strength minus the weight of the platform.
Hey Cavell, although I don't explicitly state that, I figure it is implied since, physics, ya know? :)
Very nice work and creative, is that an atc 70 👍 yest it is posted before the end
It is an ATC70. It's a 1983 with a Piranha YX140 motor! There are a few videos on my channel of me working on it, feel free to check them out!
Looks like attic trusses - did you have to cut a truss to get the depth out of the carriage?
I did! It worked out such that I only had to cut one the width of the hole, which was then properly shored up against the other surrounding trusses with joist hangers and the like.
@@blastworks I'm currently looking at the same thing, but I'm hesitant to cut on a truss.
I need to figure out the most secure way to brace it and keep the tension there.
@@BellyUpFishGarage Here's a rough image I just drew up, four different phases that are numbered. Note that the view is of three trusses from top down/bottom up. The following is how I did it. I am hosting it from my SSL secured website so it is safe for you to click.
www.blastworks.net/uploads/cutting_and_supporting_trusses.png
1) The original 3 trusses after initial installation.
2) Supports installed between the trusses that will remain and the one I have to cut.
3) The piece of the truss that needs to be removed is cut out.
4) Two final support pieces spanning the entire depth of the hole linking the surrounding trusses and then pieces of the truss leftover after cutting directly together.
This is what worked for me, and depending on how your trusses are, it may work for you. Ultimately, keep in mind that I am not a professional carpentry or structural engineer by any means, this is just how I did it in my case!
@@blastworks That’s basically what I’m going to do, with some small variations. Just got back a drawing from a structural engineer and it’s very similar to what you’ve done.
Major difference I can see is that he suggested blocking up the joist prior to cutting, and then I’ll be tripling the sisters on either end of the cut.
Thanks for the reply!
Your elevator is the best I’ve seen and I’m planning on copying it pretty heavily. 😆
@@BellyUpFishGarage That's awesome! I'm glad my example has been inspiring!
awesome, elevator...
Thanks a lot Bikinbasa!
@@blastworks i Will try it like you make simple elevator, electric hoist ready but on my country so difficult to find canal C for roller track, thankyou so much for your inspiration...
With the right hoist, what are your thoughts on lifting a zero turn mower up to the attic? It's about 1100lbs. I am considering storing my mower out of the way during the wintertime. Most likely, to avoid stressing the joists, I'd keep the mower on the actual hoist platform. Thoughts?
Hey Ashlin. I think if you have some kind of pin system to keep the platform in place, similar to how 2 post car lifts do it, it may be possible. You'll likely want 3 or more rails as well. You're going to need to build a far more robust platform than the one I have, and you'll probably also want to go with a 1000kg cable hoist. Check out my latest video on my channel, I'm actually giving a hoist away next month!
@@blastworks thank you!!
Why did you use chains instead of tubes? Would angle tubes work all the same? Any disadvantages?
It's just what I preferred using. I don't think there would be any major advantages or disadvantages either way.
Were any floor joists cut to make the hole big enough for the platform? Ive seen other styles that are 22 1/2' platform to fit between joists/rafters/whatever
The floor joists in this case are the bottom spans on the barn style trusses up above. I purposefully chopped out what was required to make the hole the size I wanted it to be!
Fantastic video and great work! Hoping you can help with a question as looking to utilize the same strut / trolleys but can’t figure out how you mounted the strut so that the Trollys still clear? Any info is much appreciated!
Hey Joe! I had to grind the heads of the lag bolts down a little bit, then trolleys cleared them no sweat!
Are you still available to answer questions regarding garage lift?
For sure Robert!
How does the controller hang down while the lift is up top? Is there just a little hole to dangle it through?
The cable fits between the lift and the hole. The gap on the left side of the lift is about a half inch, more than enough for the cable to hang down through.
It would be a lot smarter if the motor was cordless with remotes.
I look forward to you sharing your build with cordless remotes so everyone can enjoy it!
Should be able to install an automatic stop on it.
It'd be easy enough to attach something to the cable at the right point, for sure. It's something I can look into for upgrade round 2! If you haven't see it, I have done an upgrade video to this lift already, and I'm also giving away a cable hoist. Feel free to check it out on my channel!
Gute Arbeit , aber leider kein Zweites (2.) Sicherungs-Seil Band oder was auch immer, bitte Nachbessern und neues Video !!
Seit dem Upgrade (siehe Upgrade-Video auf meinem Kanal) habe ich jetzt ein viel schwereres Kabel und einen schwereren Lift. Trotzdem ein Risiko, das ich bereit bin einzugehen!
@@blastworks Wenn ich den Lift nachbauen will, brauche ich mehr Sicherheit! ich denke an 2x Dachdecker Automatik - Gurte ?? denn wenn dein Seil reißt, gehts ab im freien Fall?
very good, is that possible to show us how to make double lines, thank you very much
www.safetyliftingear.com/news/post/what-is-a-snatch-block
Thank you very much
Just found your video. Awesome... gonna try and duplicate your setup. quick question on the dimensions... i got the 59" wide and 31" deep, what is the height ? Thanks man....
I believe it's roughly as tall as it is deep. The taller it is, the more spread out the moment of rotation will be on the rails as well. I think you'd be safe to make it as tall as it is deep, or maybe a little taller.
cool...thats what I figured as well. The elevator is in fabrication. I'll post a pic. “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.”- Oscar Wilde
@@fasteddie4802 Thanks again Eddy! Nothing but the best of luck with your version!
Wish I had the skills for this.
It all starts somewhere Paul! My first build was a welder cart after I bought my welder, then a couple other smalls things, and once I felt I was putting down good enough welds, I took the plunge! Dive in!
You verbalize that your struts are Unistrut 1 5/8” channel, but when I click on the link it’s 1 5/8 x 1 3/8 channel. I’m just curious as to which is correct so that I can get the right stuff. I imagine it matters with the height of the trolleys. Can you clarify?
The channel linked in the video description is 1 5/8 x 1 5/8: www.fastenal.com/products/details/48424
@@blastworks Yes, I’m sorry. I meant the picture of the strut that comes up inset into the video. That describes it as 1 3/8 x 1 5/8.
I assume from your message, though, I need to order the product at the link.
Thank you!!
Nice grage! ;)
Thanks glm777 :D
Cost of constitution please
Including the lift and materials, it cost me roughly $600 to build.
Hey Blast... lift is just about complete. I just need to install the hoist. I have a question... I am concerned that the hoist cable isn't exactly centered horizontally over the lift. I'm offset about 3 inches. Is that a real problem? I'm concerned the hoist will be pulling the lift up at a slight angle putting some stress on the super-strut channels. thoughts? thanks brother
I tried to make sure mine was as centered as possible. If it just means loosening up the mounts for the hoist and adjusting, then I'd recommend it. Keep in mind, as the cable is wound up, it will move back and forth a few inches for sure as well, so if you are off center by a few inches, that could add up to 5-6 inches when the cable is winding back and forth on the reel!
@@blastworks Thanks brother... however I didn't explain it correctly. Im centered left/right over the lift, but I'm off a couple of inches fore / aft. I can't get the cross beam close enough to the back wall to be directly overtop the lifting point on the lift.
@@fasteddie4802 Now I'm picking up what you're laying down! I haven't experienced that specific case, but since you won't be pulling directly up, some of the force will pull outward on the channels, and this will increase the higher you go up on the lift as the angle between the cable and the plane of lift increases. I'd try to make sure that 1) the channels are anchored to the wall as well as you can anchor them, and 2) you don't exceed the maximum force the runners inside the channel are rated for. I know that you can get heavy duty ones from ebay (or even make yourself a set), and that the stock ones are only rated for something like 50lbs or some such. I'm sure it will work fine, but I'd recommend testing things out in a safe manner to confirm.
You might be able to add a pulley, or something like a roller, to pull the cable closer to the wall. It should be installed right above the attic's floor level. Unlike the hoist mount in your case, it can be installed much closer to the wall, or even in the wall cavity between two studs, if needed.
We really need to have one of these built. Can we contract you to build one of these for us? We can not find anybody here willing to do it.
I wish I could help, but I don't believe it would be cost effective. I am likely located a long distance away from you.
I have been looking for 1 x 2 tube with 3/16" wall. Everyone has 1/8" wall but I cannot find 3/16". Do you think 1/8" would be ok?
For sure!
You cut the bottom of one of the trusses to get 31” width didn’t you? No mention of framing mods to garage ceiling
I did! There's really no other way to get up into the attic with enough space to move larger items, no? Maybe check out some carpentry/framing videos if you are looking for information on how to do that!
Nice lift but this definitely was not a detailed build video. Detailed would include measurements and exact dimensions of all materials and exact materials used in this build.
My apologies dickie, but this was never intended to be a detailed build video. It was recorded on a whim. If you'd like to see a really nice build, check out Wesley treats lift build video. It is absolutely amazing.
I dont think you mentioned the actual weight of your platform. And in turn the max weight your load can be.
The platform itself is about 100lbs, so 880 - 100 would be the max it can lift. As mentioned in the video, the most I put on it is about half of that capacity.
Hmmm..I'm thinking of installing one of these for my basement to bring down heavy shop equipment like bandsaw, cabinet saw, etc. Thanks for sharing
That trolly you are using only has a 50 pound load rating. It’s going to break one day. I know of someone that fell 6 feet and is in a wheelchair the rest of their life now.
@@paulschaffner5796 the load is not on the trolleys, it's on the cable. The trolleys are just there to guide the lift and the lateral loads on them are negligible.
Were did you purchase rails from?
Hey Fred! I purchased the rails locally from an Acklands-Grainger type place. You can order it online as well, just do a quick google search for unistrut channel and you should get a ton of hits!
What was the overall cost?
Thanks
Lift was $149, steel for the frame was roughly $60, the unistrut channel and dollies ran me around $150, and the large 2x4 steel beam was about 100$. Toss on 50$ for odds and ends and you're in for around $500.
start building cafe racers!
i like your content thank you!
Thanks Michal! Hoping to get back into the C70 restoration and finish up the rebuild soon!
be carefull-looks like your u-bolt may be the weak point.
Check out my upgrade video!
Electrician? Where is the face plate?
I told the electrician I would install one and never did. I actually have a 10 pack of faceplates sitting in a cabinet. I should put one on it!
Nice build, you lost most of them when you said common sense
Sometimes it ain't so common!
J