I love what you do,looking your ride too. Right now i waiting for my sherman L after destroying my V-12 and my T4 caught in fire last week, i try that one.she seem to be great and safe A .Wheeler from Quebec (north Canadian)
Man such a breeze of a tire change. Makes my v11 seem like unfathomable nightmare in comparison. Great video guys! Good tips for tire changing in general. I find the man-handling approach to be pretty effective myself
I have an air bottle and I put about 100 psi in it and it has a ball valve on it, so it releases a ton of air all at once, and then I remove the valve stem and I hit it with a blast of air and the bead seats immediately. Then I run 4 ounces of tubeless tire sealant Inside the tire. I never run a tubeless tire without sealant inside. And I absolutely love the Shinko 244 on my Lynx. Very noticeable difference both on and off-road as compared to the stock Kenda. Love that sherman L!
The extra pin on the negative connection is for anti spark. It has an inline resistor to prevent large sparks when connecting high capacitance circuits. That pin would not be enough to transmit data between BMS and the controller. Great guess though.
A single tiny tiny pin is enough to transmit data. Regarding the extra pin, are you guessing also? How exactly do you know its purpose - honest question.
@@ElectricUnicycles I've used similar connectors in my own builds. The small pin is designed to make connection before the main conductor. In reference to the encoded data being delivered, there would have to be an encoder and decoder on both sides to multiplex and demultiplex the signal. Which is not there. This is the same connector used on the Patton and other leaperkim wheels which do not feature smartbms. The amount of data transmitted by a smart BMS would require more than one pin. To confirm unplug the wheel and let the controller discharge. Plug the battery connector in fast and you'll get a noticeable spark. Plug it in slow and you will get no spark (gives time for the voltages to balance). I'm not talking out of my ass, I've modified and dissembled much more complex EVs.
@@Senioritis012 Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that you were "talking out of your ass" 🙂 Since the Lynx and L have smart BMS's, where do you suppose the data is coming from if not from those pins on the battery connectors? A single pin can easily transmit serialized BMS data. If not from that single pin, I'd love to know where you think the data from the smart BMS is coming from?
@@ElectricUnicycles Not at all! I just didn't want to come off as an armchair expert. My apologies if I came of as confrontational. To set it to rest, I tore apart my Patton to trace the lead back to the board(it's not labeled on the PCB). So I went a head and desoldered it and did a quick power up to see if an error would occur. It did!!! It in fact used that pin to detect the BMS as it showed the absence of the side I desoldered. That was totally my mistake as I hadn't seen a data pin on the positive terminal I discounted the chances of it being bidirectional comms. Guess Ive been jaded by all the different vehicles that I didn't expect such a lean comms connection on EUCs. But can confirm on Leaperkims without a doubt the extra pin is BMS communications.
Dawn had a video about chassis flex in the Lynx and said they had fixed it in the Sherman L, but looking at the disassembled wheel, I don't see any changes that should have fixed the chassis flex? Also I think it might be a good idea to turn the valve backwards, away from the rotation of the tyre, to minimize the risk of the valve getting caught on anything while riding offroad. As long as you can still access it..
We are thinking that the longer battery packs make the L more stiffer. Regarding the valve, it exits the rim perpendicular to the tire rotation (points neither forward or backward)
I have tried two different tire types on my Linx and both times the tire change was as easy as for you maybe they changed the rim from the first productions, the Lynx and L were supposed to have the same rim Another option if it is tight is to heat the tire up to 70 degrees Celsius in an oven, it works
Nice work. Great looking wheel and pedals, tyre looks good. I tried filling my tyre HALF FULL of latex, ha ha, slime much. ! I woke up next day, Whaa, flat tyre, ha. Yeah I don't have any air in my tyres now, yeah mousse. I'm still in testing they have ups and downs. No instant deflations from valve snapping off tube, thats my favorite reason. I'm a week or two from some stats for ya's. Save your brain for other fun stuff to, helmet doods. Wishing you nice success and to be well.
@roghaj Would love to hear how you feel the noise of this tire compares to the identical-looking 244. If the rubber compound is different, I'm sure they could also sound different. I find the 244 really loud (I have it), and I know some of your group rides that tire. Thanks!
You guys oughta use a torque wrench when re-assembling, those clamp screws and the battery to suspension screws are pretty important to torque to spec otherwise you risk them coming loose.
@@ElectricUnicycles it does matter, a lot! They might come loose otherwise. 8Nm for the clamps that go over the suspension, 11Nm for the screws on the side of the battery case that fasten the shock, 8Nm for the screws going from the battery case to the top of the controller, 15Nm for the motor bolts in case you loosen those.
@@RonnieRides Yet myself and "most" others don't use a torque wrench with no bad consequences. Sometimes something will loosen up and we tighten it. I'm not saying it's bad to torque the screws, but IMHO it doesn't matter, in practice. BTW, where did you get these torque values?
@@ElectricUnicycles at the same time riders complain about looseness and flex on LeaperKim wheels after doing tire swaps. The numbers come from LeaperKim, they label their bags with replacement screws sent to customers.
Use 10 or so zip ties to "cinch" the tire so lips touch, slide it on the rim in one motion, cut and pull out zip ties. they actually function like slippery guides. The effort you put at the end is likely to bend the rim.
Look at my V14 playlist. I think you'll see a video that shows the wheel disassembled a bit. It's VERY easy to remove the batteries on one side of the V14 to do the tire change. Should be similar to the L. Unless I have to change the tire on my V14 I doubt that I'll do a tire change. Sorry.
Fully feel Rogers pain with Lynx tire. That damn sealant was a B*TCH to get off. Needed clamps to break the seal so happy they arent using it on the L.
I can say now, much later, that this tire was actually provided by Jason and I think will be offered in batch 2 deliveries and you may be able to buy it separately from him
@@ElectricUnicycles thanks Marty! I'm definitely interested in this route given my woes with tube-types. I'll keep my eye out on the Ewheels's site in the coming months
I have had no trouble with the Shinko 244 tubeless on my Lynx. I absoutly love the 244 on the Lynx, it is super stable.
Thanks Marty and Roger
Badass video. Roger you are a real asset to the euc world.
Testament to the ingenuity and user-friendliness of the L’s design for this task. Great job, on a great wheel. 👍🏻🏴
I love what you do,looking your ride too.
Right now i waiting for my sherman L after destroying my V-12 and my T4 caught in fire last week, i try that one.she seem to be great and safe
A .Wheeler from Quebec (north Canadian)
Thank you Roger‼️for showing us what to do
Man such a breeze of a tire change. Makes my v11 seem like unfathomable nightmare in comparison. Great video guys! Good tips for tire changing in general. I find the man-handling approach to be pretty effective myself
You are clearly a real man.
It's pretty astonishing how euc makers succeeded in making tire changes so unnecessary complicated...
"that's how Jackie Chan would do it"😂 could totally imagine that.
Thanks Marty n Roger!! All the love ❤from Canada 🇨🇦
excellent tire change video, masterful articulation by @roghaj
Exciting stuff 😮😮👍
Marty told me the phase cable is on the left.... don't know why I believed him :)
Hahaha
Always on the right sise.
I have an air bottle and I put about 100 psi in it and it has a ball valve on it, so it releases a ton of air all at once, and then I remove the valve stem and I hit it with a blast of air and the bead seats immediately. Then I run 4 ounces of tubeless tire sealant Inside the tire. I never run a tubeless tire without sealant inside. And I absolutely love the Shinko 244 on my Lynx. Very noticeable difference both on and off-road as compared to the stock Kenda. Love that sherman L!
Testament to the ingenious and user-friendliness of the L’s design for this task. Great job, on a great wheel. 👍🏻🏴
Great video upload. Cheers
Amazed it's so much faster than my Patton.
45:05 "just a little tiny bit" like true addicts 😂.
Nice video!
Great job !
Roger & Marty 🍿🍿🍿
The extra pin on the negative connection is for anti spark. It has an inline resistor to prevent large sparks when connecting high capacitance circuits.
That pin would not be enough to transmit data between BMS and the controller. Great guess though.
A single tiny tiny pin is enough to transmit data. Regarding the extra pin, are you guessing also? How exactly do you know its purpose - honest question.
@@ElectricUnicycles I've used similar connectors in my own builds. The small pin is designed to make connection before the main conductor.
In reference to the encoded data being delivered, there would have to be an encoder and decoder on both sides to multiplex and demultiplex the signal. Which is not there. This is the same connector used on the Patton and other leaperkim wheels which do not feature smartbms. The amount of data transmitted by a smart BMS would require more than one pin.
To confirm unplug the wheel and let the controller discharge. Plug the battery connector in fast and you'll get a noticeable spark. Plug it in slow and you will get no spark (gives time for the voltages to balance).
I'm not talking out of my ass, I've modified and dissembled much more complex EVs.
@@Senioritis012 Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that you were "talking out of your ass" 🙂 Since the Lynx and L have smart BMS's, where do you suppose the data is coming from if not from those pins on the battery connectors? A single pin can easily transmit serialized BMS data. If not from that single pin, I'd love to know where you think the data from the smart BMS is coming from?
@@ElectricUnicycles
Not at all! I just didn't want to come off as an armchair expert. My apologies if I came of as confrontational.
To set it to rest, I tore apart my Patton to trace the lead back to the board(it's not labeled on the PCB).
So I went a head and desoldered it and did a quick power up to see if an error would occur. It did!!!
It in fact used that pin to detect the BMS as it showed the absence of the side I desoldered.
That was totally my mistake as I hadn't seen a data pin on the positive terminal I discounted the chances of it being bidirectional comms.
Guess Ive been jaded by all the different vehicles that I didn't expect such a lean comms connection on EUCs.
But can confirm on Leaperkims without a doubt the extra pin is BMS communications.
Good vid 👍
I wouldn't call that a true knobby, more of a hybrid.
Cheers
Dawn had a video about chassis flex in the Lynx and said they had fixed it in the Sherman L, but looking at the disassembled wheel, I don't see any changes that should have fixed the chassis flex?
Also I think it might be a good idea to turn the valve backwards, away from the rotation of the tyre, to minimize the risk of the valve getting caught on anything while riding offroad. As long as you can still access it..
We are thinking that the longer battery packs make the L more stiffer. Regarding the valve, it exits the rim perpendicular to the tire rotation (points neither forward or backward)
I have tried two different tire types on my Linx and both times the tire change was as easy as for you
maybe they changed the rim from the first productions, the Lynx and L were supposed to have the same rim
Another option if it is tight is to heat the tire up to 70 degrees Celsius in an oven, it works
Nice work. Great looking wheel and pedals, tyre looks good. I tried filling my tyre HALF FULL of latex, ha ha, slime much. !
I woke up next day, Whaa, flat tyre, ha.
Yeah I don't have any air in my tyres now, yeah mousse.
I'm still in testing they have ups and downs. No instant deflations from valve snapping off tube, thats my favorite reason. I'm a week or two from some stats for ya's.
Save your brain for other fun stuff to, helmet doods.
Wishing you nice success and to be well.
Should the yellow circle be aligned with the valve stem? Probably doesn't make much difference on an EUC for balance.
It's time of the year when everyone disassemble something 🙃
This video reminds me of Tim Allen's TV show, Home Improvement.
@roghaj Would love to hear how you feel the noise of this tire compares to the identical-looking 244. If the rubber compound is different, I'm sure they could also sound different. I find the 244 really loud (I have it), and I know some of your group rides that tire. Thanks!
Is street tire good for rain? Or knobby? Thank you Marty and Roger🙏
I really don't know. Google?
You guys oughta use a torque wrench when re-assembling, those clamp screws and the battery to suspension screws are pretty important to torque to spec otherwise you risk them coming loose.
Give us the "official" torque values :-) I hear you, but in practice I don't think it matters. IMO.
@@ElectricUnicycles it does matter, a lot! They might come loose otherwise. 8Nm for the clamps that go over the suspension, 11Nm for the screws on the side of the battery case that fasten the shock, 8Nm for the screws going from the battery case to the top of the controller, 15Nm for the motor bolts in case you loosen those.
@@RonnieRides Yet myself and "most" others don't use a torque wrench with no bad consequences. Sometimes something will loosen up and we tighten it. I'm not saying it's bad to torque the screws, but IMHO it doesn't matter, in practice.
BTW, where did you get these torque values?
@@ElectricUnicycles at the same time riders complain about looseness and flex on LeaperKim wheels after doing tire swaps. The numbers come from LeaperKim, they label their bags with replacement screws sent to customers.
@@RonnieRides Cool. I didn't realize that Leaperkim was providing this information. Thanks.
Hello, great video!! Could you advice, will the size 90/90-14 of Michelin City Grip 2 suit for SL, or 80/90 only? Thanks in advance
thanks for the video. what's the max load rating of that tnt tire? i'd prefer a knobby but the lynx are only 267lb max load.
hi sir, how much air should i pump to my sherman L? and usaully where i can find those knowledges?
Use 10 or so zip ties to "cinch" the tire so lips touch, slide it on the rim in one motion, cut and pull out zip ties. they actually function like slippery guides. The effort you put at the end is likely to bend the rim.
Bend the rim??? No. Roger has changed dozens of EUC tires.
@@ElectricUnicycles Logic fallacy: I have been driving for 20 years, hence I cannot have an accident.
Over here, 🇬🇭 the tyre guys uses engine oil around the tyre rime before inflating the tyre. Hope that works with the EUC
That's a lot of small inprovements against Sherman S in case of dissasembly. To be able to dissconnect a baterry pack - easy to do DIY in Sherman S
Does the L have the same chassis motor flex as the Lynx? Looks like the interior structure is basically the same...
My unscientific test shows less flex. Maybe because the battery components are larger?
I just got my Inmotion V14, (I think you know where I am going with this) is it possible you can show how to do a tire change on V14❓
Look at my V14 playlist. I think you'll see a video that shows the wheel disassembled a bit. It's VERY easy to remove the batteries on one side of the V14 to do the tire change. Should be similar to the L. Unless I have to change the tire on my V14 I doubt that I'll do a tire change. Sorry.
Fully feel Rogers pain with Lynx tire. That damn sealant was a B*TCH to get off. Needed clamps to break the seal so happy they arent using it on the L.
Could it be in the realm of possibility that Jason could offer this tubeless knobby on future batches of the Blitz?
I can say now, much later, that this tire was actually provided by Jason and I think will be offered in batch 2 deliveries and you may be able to buy it separately from him
@@ElectricUnicycles thanks Marty! I'm definitely interested in this route given my woes with tube-types. I'll keep my eye out on the Ewheels's site in the coming months
@@bondo31 Always reach out to Jason when you want something. Often it's not on the website. He can probably tell you when it's available.
I swear by Armor-Dilloz Blue for fast wheels and red for slow wheels. Euc hub motors get hot and a lot of sealants get NASTY due to the heat.
you guys just need to "Hawk Tua" those tires on there man. Struggling too much 🤪
Was there really a spider in the tire the whole time?😂😂😂
"don't worry they'll clean it in new york" 😂
Why did you put that white liquid in the tire❓
Turn up the volume and watch the video 🤣
Too da doo
Great video but you could have clean the wheel/ dust it out before putting it back 😂
I thought about it, but honestly, in two days it would have been dirty again. This wheel is being used! 🙂
Left and right is taken from driver's point of view.
Which matches what I said in the video
@@ElectricUnicycles "Glad that's settled." That was a line from the movie The Aviator. I had to pause, I've not finished watching yet.
Jesus, my old EX20S tire change WAY easier!
We are comparing this tire change to modern wheels.