Hey thanks for the fantastic tutorial! Just did the mod. I’m from the U.K. and couldn’t buy the harness from DIY retro. The solution was to splice the wires together as you suggested. For those thinking about doing the same thing, Pause on Kong’s video and make sure you only connect each directional wire to exactly one (of the two) directional wires from the encoder wires- it must be the correct one. Look carefully at the video and pay attention to the pins on the harness, or just trial and error. Also, I found it difficult to remove the original stick because of the glue. I used a hairdryer to help, worked well.
Hey, without the harness, with the Sanwa stick having 5 wires, 4 directional and 1 ground, each small white clip having 2 directional in each, do you just add the 5th ground wire into one of the empty slots?
@@simonthornton3084 Yes, that’s correct, but the other 4 wires must each go to the correct slot. Look carefully at the harness in the video to identify which ones. Good luck!
Thanks for this video and information. Getting ready to update my A1UP collection with Sanwa joysticks and buttons. It’s worth every penny based on my past experiences.
I am so glad I found your video, I bought the same harness but I guess it was wired for series 1/2 Arcade 1up, Paused your video and reconfigured the wires and then I was all set!!
I added Sanwa joysticks. Super easy with the wire harness from DIY. I got HAPP buttons but I forgot and had to order the new connectors separately then it was easy.
My silent Sanwa sticks and buttons came in today, while my diyretro wire harness will be in tomorrow. I’m going to change out them bottons right away when I get home from work…Nice video btw!👍
Your install is almost exactly how I did it. My sanwa joystick had the connections facing sideways, so I just changed it 90 degrees to make it face upwards like shown in the video. With the pilot holes on the corners, I suggest barely drilling a hole. You really don’t need to drill deep. Once a starter hole is done, I suggest hand screwing it in, since its particle board. You barely need force since particle board is easy to screw into. People who don’t have experience with drill settings might drill pilot holes to big, and this might cause the screws to not hold tightly do to the cheap particle board.
Great tutorial Kong! 👌 Thansk for this. I noticed the volume changing on mine last night lol! It goes down 1 notch on almost every game I play. 1up needs another patch for sure. Great channel my friend! Keep up the great work for the gaming community 👍
@NutzAboutBolts sanwa buttons on Amazon are fine, they have limited color options tho. If you want custom color sanwas, you can order thru arcade renovations.com.
Thanks for posting detailed instructions. I recently bought the MK2 deluxe and opened it up. I'm happy with it, but would like to eventually change out the sticks and buttons. I took a bunch of pics of the controls from the inside and posted it on my instagram if anyone is interested in checking it out. The sticks look to be the same (I hope), so this guide should be useful.
@@KongsRUs I replaced all the parts with Sanwa just now and everything is working! I ordered the "Double 4 Wave 3" adaptor from DIY retro. Thanks again!
At this point I'm starting to think I should have had my own custom cabinet built like Roundhouse's candy cabinet. And my volume also lowers on it's own.
Hey B!!! You mentioned doing the Retro530 Tempest Marquee install soon. Please do so as I’m waiting to move forward with my install until I see your video as I trust your guidance and it seems the Retro530 Marquee when installed at an angle will leave a huge gap above the screen. Thank you!!!
Hi there. Brilliant video. Thanks for that. I am from the UK and getting the harness is impossible but Ian from Monster joysticks UK has made me one and that should be arriving soon. It’s going to be a challenge for me as I am not too DIY minded. So , I have my Sanwa joystick but it feels like it’s 8 directional. I am putting it into the Arcade 1 up Ms Pac-Man which only uses 4 directions. So , my question is please, how do I make my Sanwa joystick just move in the 4 directions ?
Thanks for watching! You'll need a 4 way Restrictor gate for your sanwa joystick. The current gate is a square (8 way) and if needs to be a diamond (4 way). You can get a replacement one like this that rotates to 4 way gate amzn.to/3ztnmJ4
I'm trying to find a wider control panel for the MvC2 cab, it's definitely small for my preferences especially when I'm getting scraped by not only the sides but the acrylic cover on the bottom side as well. I saw the TulsaArcade wider panels but unsure if it'll fit in the slanted control area of the MvC2 cab.
I swapped in a Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK and then what my friends and myself thought was input lag causing missed inputs reduced significantly. Holding both the stock stick and the Sanwa, I can use the same pressure to move the Sanwa joystick all the way to the gate but with the stock stick it feels like higher tension when the microswitch starts to engage. So I think in the heat of game play if I am not focusing on inputs I do not go all the way to the gate sometimes on the stock joystick due to the difference in tension whereas the Sanwa is smooth through the whole range. I am probably also more used the Sanwa from arcades, but didn't think I would notice any difference. Its the difference between being able to do three hadokens in the air (stock) vs five-six in the air (sanwa).
@@sh0cktim3 I would recommend watching a video guide, its not too tricky but Sanwa / Seimitsu / Hap joysticks have differences in the plate used to screw to the mdf. For some joysticks you can just swap the plate from the joysticks that come with the cab, others you may have to drill / screw in new places and be careful of alignment. The other issue is whether you can reuse the wire harness or you need to buy a new one. Its not too expensive, but not all joysticks can plug direct into the original wire harness.
Hello, I am getting the Class of '81 Deluxe cabinet, and I'd like to swap out the joystick during the assembly. Do you know if your instructions will be different for the newer deluxe cabinet? Apparently, the control panel and the monitor are 1 unit, so I'm concerned that the install might be different. Also, do you recommend swapping out the buttons too, or just the joystick? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Should be same process! As for Button replacements, if you want a better feeling button that is easy to replace, highly recommend these buttons from DIY retro for simple install using the same wires: www.diyretroarcade.com/collections/arcade-parts-buttons/products/one-piece-design-28mm-concave-buttons-switch-for-arcade1up
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought the same stuff from DIY retro for the same MvC2 cabinet but the joystick is unresponsive. Could the pins going into the board not be deep enough? Looks like I may be the only one having problems. ugh.
Alright I’m sold. New to Arcade1up but got the MVC2 cab and just got the sanwa buttons about to buy the joystick as well with the harness from diyretro from your link. Just want to confirm you did use the gate that came with the MVC2 arcade1up cab correct ?
Update:installed the sanwa buttons and the sanwa joystick. Followed your video to a “T”. I really think this was a worth it update. Much more smooth and reactive. Thanks again !
Great Video, Just a question regarding the harness...Any idea if the 4 pin wave 3 from the link you posted will work with the Yogaflame cab as I want to order the Sanwa's also but really just want to plug and play as I cant deal with sorting wires out. Thanks
I haven't 100% tested this on Yoga Flame but it should be the same 4pin wave 3 pin out as they've been the same for most cabs. MvC2 came out after yoga flame so pretty sure it's the same
It's something I'm exploring and will have to do some deeper testing to see the effect and impact. If I find a good solution, might do a tutorial for sure
Quick question dude, my mvc2 plexi came with big scratches on it. Arcade1up sent me a new plexi. The new format has the top 3 screws on the plexi hidden behind the speakers. I'm going to have to unscrew the riser from the cab, take the cabinet basically completely apart to remove the speakers, to remove and replace the plexi. My question is, will I be able to reassemble the cabinet just fine and reattach the riser properly knowing that it gets screwed directly into the cab? Will everything go back together smoothly, or be kinda janky and loose because it's being taken apart and reassembled?
I've taken apart my cabs and put them back together no problem. Try to minimize the screws you take out as you might be able to loosen those parts to access to the screws you need. Good luck dude!
Wave 3 cables 12" should be long enough. Octagonal Gates give you notch on all the 8 directions you can register you joystick inputs. Some people prefer it
Another question, I got a couple of sanwa sticks. And the face plates for my NBA Jam cabinet look to be compatible. However I'm having a problem getting the face plate off the sanwa joystick. I've been to Ace Hardware and Home Depot with no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
@@KongsRUs Kongs's that's the thing. The screws won't unscrew/come out. I opened the other side and it looks like some kind of washer/glue combination. Don't know what to do at this point.
Hey kongs r us i just installed 4 new sanw@s on my nba jam arcade 1up cabinet and heres the thing i got cpr cell phone repair to install them and everything was backwards when i took it apart at home... Ughggghh smh, i was so upset with myself when i got home and took it apart along side of that issue i trouble shooted most of there errors and i took the 4 sanwa joysticks and turned them the correct way with the sanwa prongs facing upwards just like in your video and i got to looking at the wiring and how they did that and yeah i see now this thing wont work with the plug n play cords from DIY retro so i purchased 4 of those and they are on the way to me. Well hopefully ev😮erything will plug n play according to everything when i get the cords from DIY retro. Anywho i really appreciate your tutorial and development of how you emphasized on certain points about these sanwa joysticks i also have buttons on the way as well. Thank you and god bless!
@@KongsRUs I just tested it and the wires sold by DIYretro actually don't work anymore with the latest JLF-TP-8YT and the YogaFlame arcade -- the left/right are inversed now on the XHP-4 connector and actually completly tagged the opposite (Up/Down goes into the Right one, Left/Right into the left one) -- It's completly wrong now
@@KongsRUs It cannot have the same orientation - I don't know if Sanwa modified the JLF-TP-8YT recently but it has changed (I bought it from FocusAttack (sry can't post the link, comment gets deleted) , look at their pictures (2nd and 4th), the orientation is not the same as yours) - I will talk to DIYretro in the next days and post an update later
I just played through MVC2 using the headphone jack to an external speaker and it ran near flawlessly. More evidence that this is a power issue. I'm not sure how this can be fixed without a hardware revision.
@@saviorx5615 Correct. As if the power required to run the speakers is taking away from power used to run the game. When using an externally powered speaker and lightening the load on the Arcade1up, performance does improve noticably.
I used a 5/64 drill, but any small drill should work for a pilot hole, as long as it's smaller than the size of the screw. You could use something like this too amzn.to/3z2ZwQT
Does this just pertain to the MvC cabinet? If I wanted to put a sanwa stick into the yoga flame edition would the plate holes line up so I can just swap them? Thanks.
@KongsRUs got my cab in today and trying to replace the buttons and it is extremely extremely hard to remove the terminals from the buttons to the point my fingers are kilin me. Why are they in so hard?
So I am trying to install the new sanwas and looks like none of the holes line up now on the board. Not even the top and bottom. Attempting to make new holes on all 4 corners with the screws from the original stick and the screws won't hold. Do I need different screws?thanks
IL sticks have different microswitch Connectors so it's a different process to connect them to the encoder board. Here's the encoder wires that fit the IL sticks amzn.to/3TxJ2b5
@@KongsRUs Thanks, do you have a video on how to connect ILs to Arcade1up or no? I’m thinking about putting them in an MK30th and I wanted to know if it was difficult or not
I don't have a dedicated video, as you do need to modify the ILs a bit to make it fit. I might upg my MK30th eventually to ILs so will do a video then. Because you have to mod the the stick, it's harder than a sanwa mod, but if you know basic wiring, you can do it!
I just did this over the weekend and had issues getting the directions right...I ended up rotating the joystick 2x before it was right LMAO I wish I saw this video before I started
Hey thanks for the fantastic tutorial! Just did the mod. I’m from the U.K. and couldn’t buy the harness from DIY retro. The solution was to splice the wires together as you suggested.
For those thinking about doing the same thing, Pause on Kong’s video and make sure you only connect each directional wire to exactly one (of the two) directional wires from the encoder wires- it must be the correct one. Look carefully at the video and pay attention to the pins on the harness, or just trial and error.
Also, I found it difficult to remove the original stick because of the glue. I used a hairdryer to help, worked well.
Glad it helped and worked for you!
Hey, without the harness, with the Sanwa stick having 5 wires, 4 directional and 1 ground, each small white clip having 2 directional in each, do you just add the 5th ground wire into one of the empty slots?
@@simonthornton3084 Yes, that’s correct, but the other 4 wires must each go to the correct slot. Look carefully at the harness in the video to identify which ones. Good luck!
Thanks for this video and information. Getting ready to update my A1UP collection with Sanwa joysticks and buttons. It’s worth every penny based on my past experiences.
I just ordered my buttons and joysticks....now gotta wait for my cab! But this is great to see beforehand. Thanks Bee.
Which ones did you get? The stick buttons really suck?
I am so glad I found your video, I bought the same harness but I guess it was wired for series 1/2 Arcade 1up, Paused your video and reconfigured the wires and then I was all set!!
I added Sanwa joysticks. Super easy with the wire harness from DIY. I got HAPP buttons but I forgot and had to order the new connectors separately then it was easy.
Nice tutorial Kong. Really appreciate the info, including about the premade DITRetro wiring harness. That really keeps everything clean.
By the way, do you have a similar tutorial for installing Happ style joysticks?
My silent Sanwa sticks and buttons came in today, while my diyretro wire harness will be in tomorrow. I’m going to change out them bottons right away when I get home from work…Nice video btw!👍
Thanks for watching!
Your install is almost exactly how I did it. My sanwa joystick had the connections facing sideways, so I just changed it 90 degrees to make it face upwards like shown in the video. With the pilot holes on the corners, I suggest barely drilling a hole. You really don’t need to drill deep. Once a starter hole is done, I suggest hand screwing it in, since its particle board. You barely need force since particle board is easy to screw into. People who don’t have experience with drill settings might drill pilot holes to big, and this might cause the screws to not hold tightly do to the cheap particle board.
Good advice! Definitely agree about not drilling too far and using a small drill bit
Great tutorial Kong! 👌 Thansk for this. I noticed the volume changing on mine last night lol! It goes down 1 notch on almost every game I play. 1up needs another patch for sure. Great channel my friend! Keep up the great work for the gaming community 👍
Thank you!
Great tips as always man… I’m getting ready to build mine and hopefully all goes well
Finally got me an MvC 2 cab. But damn those stock buttons and sticks are stiff. Thanks for showing how the upgrade is done.
DIY Retro Arcade does have a lot of teets pieces of Hardware that make things very easy to mod the old Car'aroo'age!
Nice work! Capcom Vs SNK 1 &2 had the better gameplay & character balance 💫
Lmao you never played competition if you say that.
What wire harness do I get from DIY retro for the Sanwa joystick? There’s 3 different types, is it the Wave 1/2 Double 4 Pin (12 Inches)?
Wave 3, link in the description
@@KongsRUs nvm, I saw it lol thank you! Do you recommend the Sanwa buttons on Amazon? Or the HAPP?
@NutzAboutBolts sanwa buttons on Amazon are fine, they have limited color options tho. If you want custom color sanwas, you can order thru arcade renovations.com.
@@KongsRUs oh ok, thanks!
Great video Bee! I'd love to see the installation without the DIY Arcade harness as not available here in the UK :(
Thanks for posting detailed instructions. I recently bought the MK2 deluxe and opened it up. I'm happy with it, but would like to eventually change out the sticks and buttons. I took a bunch of pics of the controls from the inside and posted it on my instagram if anyone is interested in checking it out. The sticks look to be the same (I hope), so this guide should be useful.
Glad it helps! MK2 Deluxe is probably the same as MK30th parts when I compared them
@@KongsRUs I replaced all the parts with Sanwa just now and everything is working! I ordered the "Double 4 Wave 3" adaptor from DIY retro. Thanks again!
Glad to hear it!
At this point I'm starting to think I should have had my own custom cabinet built like Roundhouse's candy cabinet. And my volume also lowers on it's own.
Yes, hope they address the issues
Hey B!!! You mentioned doing the Retro530 Tempest Marquee install soon. Please do so as I’m waiting to move forward with my install until I see your video as I trust your guidance and it seems the Retro530 Marquee when installed at an angle will leave a huge gap above the screen. Thank you!!!
Hi there.
Brilliant video.
Thanks for that.
I am from the UK and getting the harness is impossible but Ian from Monster joysticks UK has made me one and that should be arriving soon.
It’s going to be a challenge for me as I am not too DIY minded.
So , I have my Sanwa joystick but it feels like it’s 8 directional. I am putting it into the Arcade 1 up Ms Pac-Man which only uses 4 directions. So , my question is please, how do I make my Sanwa joystick just move in the 4 directions ?
Thanks for watching! You'll need a 4 way Restrictor gate for your sanwa joystick. The current gate is a square (8 way) and if needs to be a diamond (4 way). You can get a replacement one like this that rotates to 4 way gate amzn.to/3ztnmJ4
I'm trying to find a wider control panel for the MvC2 cab, it's definitely small for my preferences especially when I'm getting scraped by not only the sides but the acrylic cover on the bottom side as well.
I saw the TulsaArcade wider panels but unsure if it'll fit in the slanted control area of the MvC2 cab.
Check out my guy Greg at 99livesarcade.com! He has a wide panel mod for MvC2
I swapped in a Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8BYT-SK and then what my friends and myself thought was input lag causing missed inputs reduced significantly. Holding both the stock stick and the Sanwa, I can use the same pressure to move the Sanwa joystick all the way to the gate but with the stock stick it feels like higher tension when the microswitch starts to engage. So I think in the heat of game play if I am not focusing on inputs I do not go all the way to the gate sometimes on the stock joystick due to the difference in tension whereas the Sanwa is smooth through the whole range. I am probably also more used the Sanwa from arcades, but didn't think I would notice any difference. Its the difference between being able to do three hadokens in the air (stock) vs five-six in the air (sanwa).
Anything special required to install it in the MvsC2 Arcade 1up cabinet?
@@sh0cktim3 I would recommend watching a video guide, its not too tricky but Sanwa / Seimitsu / Hap joysticks have differences in the plate used to screw to the mdf. For some joysticks you can just swap the plate from the joysticks that come with the cab, others you may have to drill / screw in new places and be careful of alignment. The other issue is whether you can reuse the wire harness or you need to buy a new one. Its not too expensive, but not all joysticks can plug direct into the original wire harness.
@@user-pi6cs3ue4s thanks 🙏 alot man really appreciate the reply.
Hello, I am getting the Class of '81 Deluxe cabinet, and I'd like to swap out the joystick during the assembly. Do you know if your instructions will be different for the newer deluxe cabinet? Apparently, the control panel and the monitor are 1 unit, so I'm concerned that the install might be different. Also, do you recommend swapping out the buttons too, or just the joystick? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Should be same process! As for Button replacements, if you want a better feeling button that is easy to replace, highly recommend these buttons from DIY retro for simple install using the same wires: www.diyretroarcade.com/collections/arcade-parts-buttons/products/one-piece-design-28mm-concave-buttons-switch-for-arcade1up
Thanks for the tutorial. I bought the same stuff from DIY retro for the same MvC2 cabinet but the joystick is unresponsive. Could the pins going into the board not be deep enough? Looks like I may be the only one having problems. ugh.
Alright I’m sold. New to Arcade1up but got the MVC2 cab and just got the sanwa buttons about to buy the joystick as well with the harness from diyretro from your link. Just want to confirm you did use the gate that came with the MVC2 arcade1up cab correct ?
yes, i used the stock octo gate that came with the 1up joystick on my sanwa mod
@@KongsRUs awesome already ordered it ! Thank you for sharing !
Update:installed the sanwa buttons and the sanwa joystick. Followed your video to a “T”. I really think this was a worth it update. Much more smooth and reactive. Thanks again !
Great Video, Just a question regarding the harness...Any idea if the 4 pin wave 3 from the link you posted will work with the Yogaflame cab as I want to order the Sanwa's also but really just want to plug and play as I cant deal with sorting wires out. Thanks
I haven't 100% tested this on Yoga Flame but it should be the same 4pin wave 3 pin out as they've been the same for most cabs. MvC2 came out after yoga flame so pretty sure it's the same
Appreciate this tutorial. Will you consider doing a tutorial on how to keep the pcb from potential overheating?
It's something I'm exploring and will have to do some deeper testing to see the effect and impact. If I find a good solution, might do a tutorial for sure
That’s arcade 1 ups job to do that we’re paying them $600 for the arcade 1 ups
Damn straight. We are getting close to paying for full price arcade and they cheap out on everything
Why did they use Sanwa parts in the LE Marvel Superheroes cabinet but never again in anything else? Especially this release?!?!?!?
Quick question dude, my mvc2 plexi came with big scratches on it. Arcade1up sent me a new plexi. The new format has the top 3 screws on the plexi hidden behind the speakers. I'm going to have to unscrew the riser from the cab, take the cabinet basically completely apart to remove the speakers, to remove and replace the plexi. My question is, will I be able to reassemble the cabinet just fine and reattach the riser properly knowing that it gets screwed directly into the cab? Will everything go back together smoothly, or be kinda janky and loose because it's being taken apart and reassembled?
I've taken apart my cabs and put them back together no problem. Try to minimize the screws you take out as you might be able to loosen those parts to access to the screws you need. Good luck dude!
Rock on did this last week been working great! Wish I had this video then lol it all worked out tho
Haha, sorry it took a while to make, but glad you did the mod!
@@KongsRUs no worries still a great vid for everybody!! I did the led buttons from diyretro as well looks great easy to do
For anyone else watching in the UK, Arcade World sell a similar harness here
Legend! Thank you.
At DIY Retro Arcade site for the Sanwa joysticks. Which cable do you select and also what’s the difference in Sanwa Octagonal Restrictor Gates.
Wave 3 cables 12" should be long enough. Octagonal Gates give you notch on all the 8 directions you can register you joystick inputs. Some people prefer it
Does anyone have the updated link for that joystick wire?
I have a hori fightstick. Is it possible to connect it to the cabinet and use that instead?
Unfortunately there's no external USB joystick compatibility.
Another question, I got a couple of sanwa sticks. And the face plates for my NBA Jam cabinet look to be compatible. However I'm having a problem getting the face plate off the sanwa joystick. I've been to Ace Hardware and Home Depot with no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
You just need to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the face plate down. Should pop off easy after that
@@KongsRUs Kongs's that's the thing. The screws won't unscrew/come out. I opened the other side and it looks like some kind of washer/glue combination. Don't know what to do at this point.
Hey kongs r us i just installed 4 new sanw@s on my nba jam arcade 1up cabinet and heres the thing i got cpr cell phone repair to install them and everything was backwards when i took it apart at home... Ughggghh smh, i was so upset with myself when i got home and took it apart along side of that issue i trouble shooted most of there errors and i took the 4 sanwa joysticks and turned them the correct way with the sanwa prongs facing upwards just like in your video and i got to looking at the wiring and how they did that and yeah i see now this thing wont work with the plug n play cords from DIY retro so i purchased 4 of those and they are on the way to me. Well hopefully ev😮erything will plug n play according to everything when i get the cords from DIY retro. Anywho i really appreciate your tutorial and development of how you emphasized on certain points about these sanwa joysticks i also have buttons on the way as well. Thank you and god bless!
Hope everything works for you! Thanks for watching
I can’t find the link for that cable. Could you repost the link please
A wire splicing tutorial would be most welcome please
No one has a mod for the NBA Jam cabinet as far as joysticks. Wouldn't I need the Wave 3 Double 4 Pin (17 Inches)?
Probably, I don't have that cabinet to confirm but that should be the right one
very cool. thank you.
One more thing. Did you reuse the screws from the stock a1up joystick for the sanwa?
Yep
Hello, great tutorial !!
Question: For the Street Fighter Legacy arcade I presume it's also the Wave 3 Double 4 Pin (12 Inches) that I need right?
Yes, most likely. I don't have it, but everything after the early A1up cabs are Wave 3 double 4 pin
@@KongsRUs I just tested it and the wires sold by DIYretro actually don't work anymore with the latest JLF-TP-8YT and the YogaFlame arcade -- the left/right are inversed now on the XHP-4 connector and actually completly tagged the opposite (Up/Down goes into the Right one, Left/Right into the left one) -- It's completly wrong now
Did you orient the joystick the correct way per their website instructions? The pins need to be facing the correct way for it to work
@@KongsRUs It cannot have the same orientation - I don't know if Sanwa modified the JLF-TP-8YT recently but it has changed (I bought it from FocusAttack (sry can't post the link, comment gets deleted) , look at their pictures (2nd and 4th), the orientation is not the same as yours) - I will talk to DIYretro in the next days and post an update later
@@exhile6837 if you need to re-orient the pins, you can unscrew the faceplate on the joystick and remount it till it matches the picture
do i need to upgrade the tension spring as well or can i just do the swap without upgrading the spring? thanks!!
That's up to your preference if you like a tighter spring. Not necessary to change
I just played through MVC2 using the headphone jack to an external speaker and it ran near flawlessly. More evidence that this is a power issue. I'm not sure how this can be fixed without a hardware revision.
I’m not sure I understand this comment. Are you saying that the performance of the game is being affected by the actual speakers that it’s using?
@@saviorx5615 Correct. As if the power required to run the speakers is taking away from power used to run the game. When using an externally powered speaker and lightening the load on the Arcade1up, performance does improve noticably.
What can be done to stop a vibration kind of noise in my new Happ buttons?
hmmm, might be the spring inside. you could try opening the button to check it
Random question, what are the online Ranking systems for MVC2?
Level 1-3: white rank
Level 4-7: green rank
Level 8-11: blue rank
Level 12-15: purple rank
Level 16-19: gold rank
Level 20+: red rank
Hi Bee, I did this mod on Friday but I did not drill new screw holes. Can you tell me what size drill bit you used to make the new pilot holes?
I used a 5/64 drill, but any small drill should work for a pilot hole, as long as it's smaller than the size of the screw. You could use something like this too amzn.to/3z2ZwQT
@@KongsRUs Thank you sir 👍🏻
For the second player, is the orientation of left/right and up/down the same with the second player on the control panel PCB?
For sanwa JLF, 5 pins should be facing up towards the encoder. Same as player 1 demo in this video
Does this just pertain to the MvC cabinet? If I wanted to put a sanwa stick into the yoga flame edition would the plate holes line up so I can just swap them? Thanks.
Should work with any A1up cabinet
@KongsRUs got my cab in today and trying to replace the buttons and it is extremely extremely hard to remove the terminals from the buttons to the point my fingers are kilin me. Why are they in so hard?
@@lewis6720 use a small flag head screw driver to pry the connections loose
Thanks I finally got it. Used the solid ends of my wire stripper to pull the terminals off. Alot easier.
So I am trying to install the new sanwas and looks like none of the holes line up now on the board. Not even the top and bottom. Attempting to make new holes on all 4 corners with the screws from the original stick and the screws won't hold. Do I need different screws?thanks
do you have a tutorial for MvC1? tried with these same resources… didn’t work😢
What didn't work? Button/joystick mods should work the same for most Arcade1Up cabinets
did the connection with the proper harness but all sides of the stick will only go left
Are the Industria Lorenzo joysticks the same process as this one? Can I use the same wire harness that you used?
IL sticks have different microswitch Connectors so it's a different process to connect them to the encoder board. Here's the encoder wires that fit the IL sticks amzn.to/3TxJ2b5
@@KongsRUs Thanks, do you have a video on how to connect ILs to Arcade1up or no? I’m thinking about putting them in an MK30th and I wanted to know if it was difficult or not
I don't have a dedicated video, as you do need to modify the ILs a bit to make it fit. I might upg my MK30th eventually to ILs so will do a video then. Because you have to mod the the stick, it's harder than a sanwa mod, but if you know basic wiring, you can do it!
Can you use controllers on it? Does it have plugin or anything?
I don't think a standard controller works with these PCBs, there's a USB port, but it's not configured to work with external controller devices
I just brought a wrong joystick with 2 pin as my wire is 6 pin😢
What specific drill bit size did you use?
I used a 5/64" dewalt. Here's a link amzn.to/3N0pTwG
I'll add that into my description too!
That's Nice VIdeo
Need help the harness connection isn’t in the correct position
board frome computer anyway used fan cool it down that way no overheat
I hate the glue and misalignment. I put JLFs in my MvC 1up.
if it overheating used fan to cool down pcb lol
as much as Arcade1up Taxes their cabs you should not have to replace anything
Arcade1up hates you and their customers, but they loves the monies
🕹🕹🕹
Does this fix the Online Play Capability?
No, this is just a hardware mod to improve your joystick performance
Whooosh
arcade 1 up never test it out befor they sell it lol that why i feel like it an scam 600 for arcade lol
I just did this over the weekend and had issues getting the directions right...I ended up rotating the joystick 2x before it was right LMAO I wish I saw this video before I started
Lol, at least you got it right eventually!!
also this kind arcade never last over 6 houre anyway
I bought 50 bucks worth of sanwa parts and they don't fit my stick... CURSE YOU PXN