I started with film many years ago. I "cut my teeth" with one of my favorite cameras of all time, a Nikon F2. Fully manual. It is so ingrained that manual is second nature to me. I have tried Aperture Priority several times and it just feels awkward to me. Long term habits are very difficult to break.
I use aperture priority 90% of the time. I use manual mode for things like astrophotography. I also capture RAW and jpg which gives me more flexibility, if I need to quickly share a photo I share the jpg.
One of the reason I follow you is because I feel you always try to provide knowledge. I have not seen a single video where you promote a camera or a lens. I love how you show you old nikon and 20mm lens creating astounding images..Thank you for that .
I have been watching a lot of TH-cam tutorial for landscape photography and among all the videos I have been watching, you share the most useful tips in such easy ways to understand!
Love your tone and clarity when you teach/make suggestions! Straight to the point -- no fluff, no bs, no unnecessary info. With that said, I'm excited to learn more from you! Newest Subscriber, Kris
Great tips. My issue is that when I’m out shooting I often times get so excited and lost in what I’m doing that I forget to think about a lot of the do’s! It’s only when I’m back home & viewing images that I realize what I forgot to do/not do, use/not use. I’m seeing that I need to go out and shoot more so that a lot of this becomes second nature.
I love landscape photography, because I love being close to the nature. Landscape images I took makes it possible to feel the nature when I can't actually go out there.
I use AP most of the time, but once I determine an exposure I like, I sometimes switch to Manual. I do it so that the metering doesn’t change the exposure on it’s own between shots (like shooting dark trees and bright skies...changing the aim point can change the entering).
Tip#6 - a sturdy tripod (for sharper long exposure) + geared head (to fine tune compositions). I've just upgraded to manfrotto 190 and fitted a 410 junior and have noticed a significant improvement in my shots.
Have to say your tutorials are the best I've seen on TH-cam. They even swayed my decision from purchasing a Canon R6 to a Nikon Z6II (for reasons like its native support of long exposure, and eyeing for a Z 20mm f/1.8), without any advocation.
Your points of view make a lot of sense, not only to a beginner but also to many "seasoned" photographers. Why do I say so? Because, dear friend, you make people think! I am happy to have discovered your videos. Thank you.
The tip about the wide angle zoom is so true. When I went full frame I needed to replace my awesome DX 10-24 3.5 ED. I didn’t like that it was slow, and that it zoomed. Sure it’s nice to have the 35mm equivalent for the occasional candid portrait, but I just didn’t like the zoom range. 15mm is a difficult focal length anyway, so when I saw the 20mm 1.8G I knew that was the lens for me. It is amazing. Between that lens and the 50mm 1.8G I’m well covered for my landscapes and it’s a very light package.
Great tips at one place ! I normally shoot slightly under-exposed. But your suggestion of keeping the histogram a little to the right does make sense - I would try it out on my next outing. Your photographs always have great composition irrespective of the topics covered. Hope you would do a video on composition soon, as mentioned by you. Thanks for sharing your tips. Keep it up !
I am finding your videos extremely useful in improving my landscape work and my photography in general. By far the very best presenter on this subject on TH-cam. Many, many photographers nail the technical and technique elements. Very, very few nail the artistic and aesthetic elements. You nail all 3 in bucket loads Attilio. Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
Attilio, you are not just a superb photographer, but an excellent teacher as well. Regarding the histogram, I will from now on be moving to the right, and I loved the histogram t-shirt so much, I had to order one.
Expose to the right was a great tip. Thank you. I always slightly underexposed because I thought it was easier to pull detail from shadows than highlights. Adding noise seems so obvious now.
Excellent points, sir! As a landscape and product photographer using the Fuji X-System, I find that I concur with all your points except perhaps one..."Shoot RAW only". At least with the Fujifilm system, I choose to shoot RAW+Fine (jpegs with lowest compression), for several reasons...first, the Fuji Jpeg Film Simulations are quite interesting and good...especially ACROS (black and white film sim). Second, with a dual card system, one can shoot RAWs on one card and Jpegs on the other one, creating a kind of backup file. And third, with the Jpeg file, one can enlarge (zoom into) an image at 100% to check things like focus, DOF and critical composition. Thus, there are valid reasons to shoot BOTH RAW and Jpegs. Also, I use a solid tripod, and always use the 10-second self-timer to eliminate any camera/shutter vibration. Perhaps that last point would make a good "tip" for beginning landscape photographers! Thank you!
Another wonderfully helpful video, Attilio. I find your landscape videos to be some of the best out there. Sharing your learnings and experience is very much appreciated. Thank you.
The amount of life you bring to your pictures in post process without "overdoing" it and ending up with an orange, red and purple colourbomb is nothing short of magic. Really liking it! One question though? What do mean by clipping the histogram?
Gundolf300 clipping means to have tones go to the extreme ends of the histogram - to the right = full white, which shows no detail, or on the left of the histogram, full black, which also shows no detail
your video was a big help, especially exposing to the right. the camera club I belonged to said to slightly underexpose, thank you for setting me straight, it is much clearer.
Some good tips here. RAW is the only way to go. Getting to know/understand the histogram isn't as hard as it seems. I avoided it for years but not anymore, I love it and it's not complicated at all. Developing skills in post-processing is very important. The more you do it the better your skills improve. Processing for printing is a whole new world.
amaaazing! not beacause of the technical issues but for all the inspiration and emotional perspectives that you share about your work...keep in touch attilio, thanks once again!
@Attilio Ruffo, I have just discovered your videos and have been devouring them. I love what I have seen so far and your tips are useful. I have one question about this specific video: the boat photo at 7 minutes 32 seconds. If I was to do a long exposure like that, I am pretty sure the boat would also be smoothed out. So I am curious as to how you get some subjects to be pin sharp while other elements so smooth? I assume there is some sort of stacking involved, or multiple shots, one fast shot, in focus, one smoothed, then some processing in Photoshop? I'd love to see you do a video about this, which I think is one of the more challenging aspects of such a composition. Great work! Good luck for your future work.
Greetings Attilio, the 5 tips you shared to improve landscape photography are great. In my opinion, many landscape photographers are not making the best image they could because they are not willing to get out of bed early enough or have a late dinner. Thanks to you, I discovered one of Nikon greatest prime lens for landscape photography: the AF-S NIKKOR 20 mm, f1,8 AF-D. This being said, I also agree with you that longer lenses (e.g. a NIKKOR 70-200 mm) are great for landscape photography because they allow for more simple compositions. Take care.
I think this is great advice. I don’t yet have a prime lens, but I find myself not using the zoom and keeping a fixed focal length and moving camera and tripod as necessary. I’ve never looked back once I started shooting raw and got over the shock of seeing the initial flat images.
Great tips Attilio. I used to use zoom lenses like crazy. Since I started watching your videos I have bought prime lenses and it has change my pictures drastically. Thanks for all you do and keep up the great job you do at explaining how to make all of us better photographers.
@@AttilioRuffo I have been doing research on what filters to buy. I am still undecided. I see the Lee filters you have and I am leaning towards them but I am also looking at the Nisi filters and I am up in the air about which to select.
Thank you very much very good advice. I even scatch and right what I suppose to do. I always take RAW and JPG. Sometimes I get Ideas of colors from JPG.
As a disabled person TPE is my best friend and I always use satellite mode on the maps. I have to try and work out my composition and how I can get there on my mobility scooter. I also have to add 30 minutes to my time to load and unload said scooter. If I have to crawl anywhere, like into a stream to get a low shot, I have to give it longer. I used to take hundreds of shots without really thinking about one, going back to using some film has made me think more about just one shot and trying to get it right. It can take several trips to go through a roll of 120, or even longer as I often have three backs on the go at once. When using film we expose so far to the left it’s ok to come much closer to blowing the highlights, it’s much more important we get the detail in the shadows and thus a spot meter is a necessity. Where you can’t recover detail in blown highlights in digital, you can’t recover detail in the shadows with film. I know you already know all this and much more than I do, but it’s there if anyone else in interested in giving film a try. When shooting with digital and using fairly standard settings I will often bracket my shots to get both the best detail in the highlights and shadows and will use luminosity masks to blend them. Though I do appreciate the tools, such as luminosity masks, that the digital darkroom gives you I much prefer the real darkroom. To me it’s a place magical things happen. I never ever use anything but RAW for my main card, and I don't understand why some TH-cam channels advocate JPEGs all of a sudden, if the detail in JPEGs has improved so have the details in RAW files. You need your entire data to take into the computer to give you the best possible image. I don’t understand why manual mode is the alleged Holy Grail of landscape photography, we use tripods so we don’t need to set up all the variables to get a 'safe' hand held shot. Set your ISO as low as possible; put your camera in aperture priority mode with the depth of field you want; make sure it's steady on the tripod; then press the shutter, using a cable release or remote trigger if necessary. If you want a longer exposure do the same but use shutter speed priority and possibly a light ND filter. For very long shots we have to use bulb mode, which is a variation of manual, and for panoramas it’s best to use manual mode for consistency. My ultimate favourite lens is my Sigma ef-s 18-35 f1.8 Art, it’s also the reason I take a cropped sensor camera with me, as well as my full frame, which gives it an effective range of roughly 29-56. Which is right on the standard lens range to slightly wide, it is an amazing lens and my second favourite has to be my Canon L 70-200 f4. Strangely I think I use my Samyang 14mm more for wildlife than landscapes, it’s great for images of entire flocks and unusual close ups of insects. In all honesty I do mainly use zoom lenses, but that's because of my disabilities and being limited where I can stand to make my image. However, in an urban environment I tend to use my Zorki 4K as it’s my favourite camera and I only have a Jupiter 8 50mm lens for it and no ambition to buy any more. But there there’s pavements (sidewalks) where it is much easier to dash around on my scooter. Another superb video, it brightens my day when I see you have posted as I know I'll be in for a treat. Have you ever thought of doing a video about your entire journey in photography? I for one know I'll find it fascinating.
Great tips ... especially the pre-planning and arriving early. I do disagree with the contention that a zoom lens makes you lazy. In my personal opinion having a zoom lens gives the photographer so many more possibilities for both portrait and landscape compositions. Thinking about all the possible compositions that are possible, and then creatively, and purposely selecting from among them, adds to your conscious assessment of what you are trying to capture and why. Then, after much thought, go ahead and push the shutter button and enjoy the fruit of your planning.
Mi piace molto il tuo approccio didattico, dove aggiungi anche rimandi filosofico/spirituali accanto alla tecnica, che è si importante ,ma dietro uno scatto c'è anche qualcos' altro di indefinibile. In questo video lo esponi in modo chiaro. Mi piacerebbe che tu trattassi ancora gli aspetti legati alla ''filosofia'' dello scatto. Ciao e grazie.....
Ciao Attilio, grazie per un altro video pieno di informazioni utili. Dopo tanti anni di foto generalistiche mi hai fatto innamorare della Landscape Photograpy. Thanks Attilio for another video full of useful info. After so many years of general photography you made me fall in love with Landscape Photography.
For those who do not do any post-processing of their photos, expose to the right will land you washed out images. It is a great technique to maximize the amount of information recorded in Raw for post development.
Thanks for the great videos. I've been so inspired by them that I've just ordered the nikon 20mm lens you recommended and a Lee 10 stop filter, so hopefully I can go from mediocre to great photos.
Just a point to exposing to the right, though it is true you gain detail range do to flatter exposure, you also loose a bit of natural saturation. You can use the saturation bar, but it’s not quite as rich. A nice thing about Fujifilm LCD display is, when in manual mode, it displays that image as it would be recorded allowing for visual interpretation before shooting. And if you swipe up on the screen on XT3 it displays all four histograms. This helps you protect the reds, as we often loose those first when exposing to the right.
how do you get the nice reflection in the water, especially the one with the red boat?? is it necessary to use a circular polarizer at the same time as an nd filter. i'm shooting on MFT and i don't think there's a way to use both at the same time..
Hi Attilio, thank you for this video. I especially like the advice on fixed lenses, in my kit I have both zoom and fixed lenses and I realize, that the most interesting photos that shot, those that when I review it, the most are taken with a fixed lens. At the beginning you take the zoom even for fear, of losing the prize Pulizer :), in effect with the passage of time you realize that make a choice on a precise lens, use your feet as a zoom and shoot only when it feels right is much better. Thanks again for everything you share.
Great tips and advice.. I'm drawn to landscape photography over portrait photography.. People are so hard. But trying street photography to get some variety. Your pictures are awesome and inspiring and it shows me I need to master LR. Maybe make some of my pictures I hoped to be good better! Thanks again I keep coming back to your videos
Very useful tips and video as usual attilio. I suggest if you can make a dedicated video on the 4th tips of exposure to the right technique in particular, live in the field to know the technicalities as it's very important and it makes a lot of differences in the quality of taken photos
Interesting stuff. I’ve been shooting a couple of stops under exposed and quite like it but I’ll give shooting to the right a try and see what that does. And I’ll also take it off manual when I’ve watched the other video. My biggest problem is taking too many pictures. I’m 73 and very conscious of time and all the things I want to do while I still have the energy so get impatient to keep moving. But as I only do it for my own pleasure I guess it doesn’t matter.
Thank you very informative video as usual. Especially will pick up on your tip to "shoot to the right". I have noticed more noise when I have slightly under exposed but like you had heard that was the way to do it.
I have 2 wide angle prime lenses I bought back in the day of film photograph.. A 20mm and a 24mm. Now with all the issues of "cropping" with digital sensors, those very same lens are not what they really were meaning, now, my 20mm lens view is not that of a 20mm lens becasue of the crop. So, since I also have a digital DX lens 18- 70 zoom I use that. Do I really have to now go out and buy a prime lens now that is less than 18mm to get a view that will be wide and also the shparest?
Great again. Your speed of explaining is very good understandable for people from other countries like me (the Netherlands). Thanks again (another subscribe added 👍)
Wonderful video...just wish I'd watched it ten years ago. Like you I made the mistake of slightly underexposing to increase color saturation...a technique I used back in my film days using Kodachrome. Once I realized that this was introducing noise in the shadow areas and making it all but impossible to maintain decent image quality whenever doing so I began exposing to the right. I would have to say that once I began exposing properly my image quality increased dramatically!
i did some long exposures on waterfalls.......took 4 minute exposure because of my favorite f-11.......then f-16....got it down to 2 minutes------2 minute was alot better....4 minute too washed out......thought this might make a good topic for new video from u.......love your videos.....love your attitude!!!!!!!
Thank You Attilio most informative ..... I learn every time. With your last tip please advise which “prime” lenses you prefer for your landscape captures?
Thanks for the mostly useful suggestions. May I suggest you recommend shooting in both RAW and jpeg? Many of us don't process all our photos, often using a jpeg for a quick share with friends on social media or something. Not every photo will be a fine art capture. You are so right that manual mode is not necessary to take a great photo, and the notion that all pros shoot all manual all the time is not true. But manual does have its place! I always use manual for pano frames, focus-stitching frames, and for astro. I know you do too if you do this sort of work. I suspect you're trying to keep this video simple and cannot cover every possible shooting scenario, but stitching and astro are very common shooting styles. ETTR (Expose to the right) is not as important as it once was, especially with modern Sony and Nikon sensors. I am more concerned with overexposing and blowing out highlights. My camera will recover up to five stops of shadows from ISO 640 without introducing any noise, but if I blow a highlight, that part of the image is not recoverable. So my advice would be "Expose toward the right, but absolutely stay far enough left that you don't blow any highlights." I use a histo to make sure I shoot in the middle, more concerned about highlights than shadows. Excellent advice about composition & lenses! I once read a pro landscape clicker's survey of his own work to see what focal length (or equivalent after cropping) he used most. I was mildly surprised that it was portrait-length/short telephoto! I say mildly surprised because I often tend to shoot too wide then have to crop in post, so I also use this length most. It is better to get great detail in several photos than to get everything without detail in a single shot.
Hello Atillio, I see that you mention Lightroom. I use Capture One and was wondering if you used Capture One at all? or only lightroom. I will watch your videos on Lightroom and see if i can find similar ways of producing works like you. I am going to head to th e Northern Part of Vancouver Island soon . Thanks
Rttilio , Very! good video . Great tips . I also shot JPEG's & exposed to the left.. You give good support to shoot in RAW and expose to the right without blowing out the highlights . Good ! Job. Thanks! Richard
Adding to your comment about RAW... you can always shoot both RAW and JPEG. This way you get the kind-of ok pic straight from the camera for sharing immediately and the digital negative for post processing. With current SD card sizes, there is no reason not to. Unless you are at an event and need to shoot 1000s of pics.
Great tips..!! I've been trying to learn how to improve my landscape photography techniques since I'll be going on a holiday to New Zealand soon.. I've learned a lot from you in this couple of weeks..Thank you very much..!!
Great video again 😃 I would just like to mention that manual mode comes handy when stitching images for panoramas or composites. Maybe you should do a video on that 😉
Great stuff Atillio, I use wide zooms and I’m considering a Nikon 20mm due to your recommendation, will I miss my 16-35 zoom and will I be buying 3or 4 prime wides??
As a newbie I thought I was supposed to shoot in manual mode or risk forever being stuck in the "beginner" zone and looked down upon by the 'real' photographers. BTW How/what/why is your iPhone connected to your d810? Thanks for the tips as always.
Do you use Manual Mode? :-)
Aperture Priority and RAW for a few years, but now i'ts a great fun "develop" a picture. Thanks!
👍
I started with film many years ago. I "cut my teeth" with one of my favorite cameras of all time, a Nikon F2. Fully manual. It is so ingrained that manual is second nature to me. I have tried Aperture Priority several times and it just feels awkward to me. Long term habits are very difficult to break.
It depends, but when the light conditions change very quickly aperture is a must....
I use aperture priority 90% of the time. I use manual mode for things like astrophotography. I also capture RAW and jpg which gives me more flexibility, if I need to quickly share a photo I share the jpg.
One of the reason I follow you is because I feel you always try to provide knowledge. I have not seen a single video where you promote a camera or a lens. I love how you show you old nikon and 20mm lens creating astounding images..Thank you for that .
I have been watching a lot of TH-cam tutorial for landscape photography and among all the videos I have been watching, you share the most useful tips in such easy ways to understand!
thank you very much, I appreciate your feedback :-)
Love your tone and clarity when you teach/make suggestions! Straight to the point -- no fluff, no bs, no unnecessary info. With that said, I'm excited to learn more from you!
Newest Subscriber,
Kris
Thanks Kris! welcome to my channel...
Great tips. My issue is that when I’m out shooting I often times get so excited and lost in what I’m doing that I forget to think about a lot of the do’s! It’s only when I’m back home & viewing images that I realize what I forgot to do/not do, use/not use. I’m seeing that I need to go out and shoot more so that a lot of this becomes second nature.
Exactly: Practice Practice Practice! :-)
I've wondered if I should make myself a to do list...things to check list
Why not? ;-)
Hahaha I giggled reading this one as I’m the exact same way
I love landscape photography, because I love being close to the nature. Landscape images I took makes it possible to feel the nature when I can't actually go out there.
I use AP most of the time, but once I determine an exposure I like, I sometimes switch to Manual. I do it so that the metering doesn’t change the exposure on it’s own between shots (like shooting dark trees and bright skies...changing the aim point can change the entering).
Going to definitely be trying out the expose to the right technique next time I go out and see what differences I can notice in editing.
it is great that there are no advertising insert from youtube in your videos. thanks for this.
Tip#6 - a sturdy tripod (for sharper long exposure) + geared head (to fine tune compositions). I've just upgraded to manfrotto 190 and fitted a 410 junior and have noticed a significant improvement in my shots.
That’s always good to have!
Have to say your tutorials are the best I've seen on TH-cam. They even swayed my decision from purchasing a Canon R6 to a Nikon Z6II (for reasons like its native support of long exposure, and eyeing for a Z 20mm f/1.8), without any advocation.
Thanks mate 🙏
Your points of view make a lot of sense, not only to a beginner but also to many "seasoned" photographers. Why do I say so? Because, dear friend, you make people think! I am happy to have discovered your videos. Thank you.
Thanks mate 🙏
I must have read the same article about exposing to the left. I shall go and hang out to the right and see how it goes 👍🏻. Thank you for another tip.
Try that... ;-) you might like it!
The tip about the wide angle zoom is so true.
When I went full frame I needed to replace my awesome DX 10-24 3.5 ED. I didn’t like that it was slow, and that it zoomed. Sure it’s nice to have the 35mm equivalent for the occasional candid portrait, but I just didn’t like the zoom range. 15mm is a difficult focal length anyway, so when I saw the 20mm 1.8G I knew that was the lens for me. It is amazing. Between that lens and the 50mm 1.8G I’m well covered for my landscapes and it’s a very light package.
Great tips at one place !
I normally shoot slightly under-exposed. But your suggestion of keeping the histogram a little to the right does make sense - I would try it out on my next outing.
Your photographs always have great composition irrespective of the topics covered. Hope you would do a video on composition soon, as mentioned by you.
Thanks for sharing your tips. Keep it up !
Thanks! Composition video will arrive soon!
I am finding your videos extremely useful in improving my landscape work and my photography in general. By far the very best presenter on this subject on TH-cam. Many, many photographers nail the technical and technique elements. Very, very few nail the artistic and aesthetic elements. You nail all 3 in bucket loads Attilio. Thank you so much for sharing this with us.
Thank you 🙏
Attilia, your videos are addictive,,,thank you for sharing.
Attilio, you are not just a superb photographer, but an excellent teacher as well. Regarding the histogram, I will from now on be moving to the right, and I loved the histogram t-shirt so much, I had to order one.
Robert K thank you 🙏
Expose to the right was a great tip. Thank you. I always slightly underexposed because I thought it was easier to pull detail from shadows than highlights. Adding noise seems so obvious now.
Thanks 🙏
Excellent points, sir! As a landscape and product photographer using the Fuji X-System, I find that I concur with all your points except perhaps one..."Shoot RAW only". At least with the Fujifilm system, I choose to shoot RAW+Fine (jpegs with lowest compression), for several reasons...first, the Fuji Jpeg Film Simulations are quite interesting and good...especially ACROS (black and white film sim). Second, with a dual card system, one can shoot RAWs on one card and Jpegs on the other one, creating a kind of backup file. And third, with the Jpeg file, one can enlarge (zoom into) an image at 100% to check things like focus, DOF and critical composition. Thus, there are valid reasons to shoot BOTH RAW and Jpegs. Also, I use a solid tripod, and always use the 10-second self-timer to eliminate any camera/shutter vibration. Perhaps that last point would make a good "tip" for beginning landscape photographers! Thank you!
Thanks Steve!
Another wonderfully helpful video, Attilio. I find your landscape videos to be some of the best out there. Sharing your learnings and experience is very much appreciated. Thank you.
Thank you 🙏
The amount of life you bring to your pictures in post process without "overdoing" it and ending up with an orange, red and purple colourbomb is nothing short of magic. Really liking it!
One question though? What do mean by clipping the histogram?
Gundolf300 clipping means to have tones go to the extreme ends of the histogram - to the right = full white, which shows no detail, or on the left of the histogram, full black, which also shows no detail
@@grantnewton5705 Thx mate!
Wonderful content Attilio, great tips 👌
your video was a big help, especially exposing to the right. the camera club I belonged to said to slightly underexpose, thank you for setting me straight, it is much clearer.
Thanks
Some good tips here. RAW is the only way to go. Getting to know/understand the histogram isn't as hard as it seems. I avoided it for years but not anymore, I love it and it's not complicated at all.
Developing skills in post-processing is very important. The more you do it the better your skills improve. Processing for printing is a whole new world.
Thanks 🙏
amaaazing! not beacause of the technical issues but for all the inspiration and emotional perspectives that you share about your work...keep in touch attilio, thanks once again!
👍
Once again, Attilio, you have nailed it. Great video !
Thanks Mike!
Thank you, Attilio, I have viewed so many of your videos and am learning so much! 🙂
🙏
@Attilio Ruffo, I have just discovered your videos and have been devouring them. I love what I have seen so far and your tips are useful. I have one question about this specific video: the boat photo at 7 minutes 32 seconds. If I was to do a long exposure like that, I am pretty sure the boat would also be smoothed out. So I am curious as to how you get some subjects to be pin sharp while other elements so smooth? I assume there is some sort of stacking involved, or multiple shots, one fast shot, in focus, one smoothed, then some processing in Photoshop? I'd love to see you do a video about this, which I think is one of the more challenging aspects of such a composition.
Great work! Good luck for your future work.
Greetings Attilio, the 5 tips you shared to improve landscape photography are great. In my opinion, many landscape photographers are not making the best image they could because they are not willing to get out of bed early enough or have a late dinner. Thanks to you, I discovered one of Nikon greatest prime lens for landscape photography: the AF-S NIKKOR 20 mm, f1,8 AF-D. This being said, I also agree with you that longer lenses (e.g. a NIKKOR 70-200 mm) are great for landscape photography because they allow for more simple compositions. Take care.
Thanks mate!
I think this is great advice. I don’t yet have a prime lens, but I find myself not using the zoom and keeping a fixed focal length and moving camera and tripod as necessary. I’ve never looked back once I started shooting raw and got over the shock of seeing the initial flat images.
Thanks
Great tips Attilio. I used to use zoom lenses like crazy. Since I started watching your videos I have bought prime lenses and it has change my pictures drastically. Thanks for all you do and keep up the great job you do at explaining how to make all of us better photographers.
Thanks David!
@@AttilioRuffo I have been doing research on what filters to buy. I am still undecided. I see the Lee filters you have and I am leaning towards them but I am also looking at the Nisi filters and I am up in the air about which to select.
You will be ok with either of them...
I use Lee but I saw good reviews on Nisi.
@@AttilioRuffo thanks that helps
Thank you very much very good advice. I even scatch and right what I suppose to do. I always take RAW and JPG. Sometimes I get Ideas of colors from JPG.
Thanks!
As a disabled person TPE is my best friend and I always use satellite mode on the maps. I have to try and work out my composition and how I can get there on my mobility scooter. I also have to add 30 minutes to my time to load and unload said scooter. If I have to crawl anywhere, like into a stream to get a low shot, I have to give it longer. I used to take hundreds of shots without really thinking about one, going back to using some film has made me think more about just one shot and trying to get it right. It can take several trips to go through a roll of 120, or even longer as I often have three backs on the go at once.
When using film we expose so far to the left it’s ok to come much closer to blowing the highlights, it’s much more important we get the detail in the shadows and thus a spot meter is a necessity. Where you can’t recover detail in blown highlights in digital, you can’t recover detail in the shadows with film. I know you already know all this and much more than I do, but it’s there if anyone else in interested in giving film a try. When shooting with digital and using fairly standard settings I will often bracket my shots to get both the best detail in the highlights and shadows and will use luminosity masks to blend them.
Though I do appreciate the tools, such as luminosity masks, that the digital darkroom gives you I much prefer the real darkroom. To me it’s a place magical things happen. I never ever use anything but RAW for my main card, and I don't understand why some TH-cam channels advocate JPEGs all of a sudden, if the detail in JPEGs has improved so have the details in RAW files. You need your entire data to take into the computer to give you the best possible image.
I don’t understand why manual mode is the alleged Holy Grail of landscape photography, we use tripods so we don’t need to set up all the variables to get a 'safe' hand held shot. Set your ISO as low as possible; put your camera in aperture priority mode with the depth of field you want; make sure it's steady on the tripod; then press the shutter, using a cable release or remote trigger if necessary. If you want a longer exposure do the same but use shutter speed priority and possibly a light ND filter. For very long shots we have to use bulb mode, which is a variation of manual, and for panoramas it’s best to use manual mode for consistency.
My ultimate favourite lens is my Sigma ef-s 18-35 f1.8 Art, it’s also the reason I take a cropped sensor camera with me, as well as my full frame, which gives it an effective range of roughly 29-56. Which is right on the standard lens range to slightly wide, it is an amazing lens and my second favourite has to be my Canon L 70-200 f4. Strangely I think I use my Samyang 14mm more for wildlife than landscapes, it’s great for images of entire flocks and unusual close ups of insects. In all honesty I do mainly use zoom lenses, but that's because of my disabilities and being limited where I can stand to make my image. However, in an urban environment I tend to use my Zorki 4K as it’s my favourite camera and I only have a Jupiter 8 50mm lens for it and no ambition to buy any more. But there there’s pavements (sidewalks) where it is much easier to dash around on my scooter.
Another superb video, it brightens my day when I see you have posted as I know I'll be in for a treat. Have you ever thought of doing a video about your entire journey in photography? I for one know I'll find it fascinating.
Always my favourite landscape photography mastering channel ^^
Thanks 🙏
Great tips ... especially the pre-planning and arriving early. I do disagree with the contention that a zoom lens makes you lazy. In my personal opinion having a zoom lens gives the photographer so many more possibilities for both portrait and landscape compositions. Thinking about all the possible compositions that are possible, and then creatively, and purposely selecting from among them, adds to your conscious assessment of what you are trying to capture and why. Then, after much thought, go ahead and push the shutter button and enjoy the fruit of your planning.
I’ve only recently discovered your videos Attilio and find them both inspiring and informative.Thank-you looking forward to more
thanks a lot Stephen!
I'm a portrait photographer, and I'm just starting to get into landscape photography. Thanks for sharing the tips!
Hope you are enjoying the journey!
Mi piace molto il tuo approccio didattico, dove aggiungi anche rimandi filosofico/spirituali accanto alla tecnica, che è si importante ,ma dietro uno scatto c'è anche qualcos' altro di indefinibile. In questo video lo esponi in modo chiaro. Mi piacerebbe che tu trattassi ancora gli aspetti legati alla ''filosofia'' dello scatto.
Ciao e grazie.....
Grazie Cristiano!
Thank you! I have just discovered your channel. Now I will binge watch all your videos! Love landscape photography!!
Thanks Kevin and welcome to my channel!!!
Ciao Attilio, grazie per un altro video pieno di informazioni utili. Dopo tanti anni di foto generalistiche mi hai fatto innamorare della Landscape Photograpy. Thanks Attilio for another video full of useful info. After so many years of general photography you made me fall in love with Landscape Photography.
Grazie Luca!!!
For those who do not do any post-processing of their photos, expose to the right will land you washed out images. It is a great technique to maximize the amount of information recorded in Raw for post development.
Yes. It requires editing...
One more excellent video, Attilio. Many thanks.
Thank you 🙏
Cool video Attilio, I often use manual but will experiment with aperture priority etc, good tips and reminders for us all, thanks Derek
👍
Thanks for the great videos. I've been so inspired by them that I've just ordered the nikon 20mm lens you recommended and a Lee 10 stop filter, so hopefully I can go from mediocre to great photos.
Awesome!
Nice haircut and I really like what you have done with your studio and lighting.
I appreciate it mate! ;-)
You are amazing at explaining your opinions.
Thanks Gary!
Thank you for all the great tips.
Thank you 🙏
Just a point to exposing to the right, though it is true you gain detail range do to flatter exposure, you also loose a bit of natural saturation. You can use the saturation bar, but it’s not quite as rich. A nice thing about Fujifilm LCD display is, when in manual mode, it displays that image as it would be recorded allowing for visual interpretation before shooting. And if you swipe up on the screen on XT3 it displays all four histograms. This helps you protect the reds, as we often loose those first when exposing to the right.
I will need to try the XT3...
Enjoyed the video. Thanks a ton. Waiting for a video on composition.
yes, soon!
Great video as always. Can't wait for your video on composition!
soon!
I learned so much just off of two of your videos... it’s great!!!!
👍
how do you get the nice reflection in the water, especially the one with the red boat?? is it necessary to use a circular polarizer at the same time as an nd filter. i'm shooting on MFT and i don't think there's a way to use both at the same time..
Hi Attilio, thank you for this video. I especially like the advice on fixed lenses, in my kit I have both zoom and fixed lenses and I realize, that the most interesting photos that shot, those that when I review it, the most are taken with a fixed lens. At the beginning you take the zoom even for fear, of losing the prize Pulizer :), in effect with the passage of time you realize that make a choice on a precise lens, use your feet as a zoom and shoot only when it feels right is much better. Thanks again for everything you share.
Thanks Antonio!
Great video, completly agree about about getting to a location early so you can get a feel for th mood of a location.
👍
great tips that should be reminded every then and now. Eagerly looking forward to your composition tutorial video!!!
Thank you!
Thanks again for the tips on shooting landscape photography
Thank you
I love your videos so much. They are great inspiration for me
Thank you 🙏
Great tips and advice.. I'm drawn to landscape photography over portrait photography.. People are so hard. But trying street photography to get some variety. Your pictures are awesome and inspiring and it shows me I need to master LR. Maybe make some of my pictures I hoped to be good better! Thanks again I keep coming back to your videos
Thank you 🙏
Very useful tips and video as usual attilio.
I suggest if you can make a dedicated video on the 4th tips of exposure to the right technique in particular, live in the field to know the technicalities as it's very important and it makes a lot of differences in the quality of taken photos
Its a good idea!
Interesting stuff. I’ve been shooting a couple of stops under exposed and quite like it but I’ll give shooting to the right a try and see what that does. And I’ll also take it off manual when I’ve watched the other video. My biggest problem is taking too many pictures. I’m 73 and very conscious of time and all the things I want to do while I still have the energy so get impatient to keep moving. But as I only do it for my own pleasure I guess it doesn’t matter.
Richard your pleasure does matter! 👍
Excellent tips. Thanks again for sharing.
Thank you
The tip regarding using the right side of histogram is very helpful. I'll definitely keep that in mind. Thank you...
👍
Thank you very informative video as usual. Especially will pick up on your tip to "shoot to the right". I have noticed more noise when I have slightly under exposed but like you had heard that was the way to do it.
You will see! It’s a game changer...
Thanks for sharing your experience! Learnt a couple of new stuff today.
Thanks!
Thank you Attilio for yours precious tips. cheers Vince
Thanks Vince!
A first class video Attilio! I enjoyed it immensely. Thanks!
Thank you 🙏
I have 2 wide angle prime lenses I bought back in the day of film photograph.. A 20mm and a 24mm. Now with all the issues of "cropping" with digital sensors, those very same lens are not what they really were meaning, now, my 20mm lens view is not that of a 20mm lens becasue of the crop. So, since I also have a digital DX lens 18- 70 zoom I use that. Do I really have to now go out and buy a prime lens now that is less than 18mm to get a view that will be wide and also the shparest?
Amazing Video. Thanks for the Sharing
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for tips, need to try
Thank you
Great video Attilio! Your videos have been so helpful in getting back into photography. I always look forward to the next!
Thanks David!
Great again. Your speed of explaining is very good understandable for people from other countries like me (the Netherlands).
Thanks again (another subscribe added 👍)
Thanks a lot and welcome to my channel! :-)
Wonderful video...just wish I'd watched it ten years ago. Like you I made the mistake of slightly underexposing to increase color saturation...a technique I used back in my film days using Kodachrome. Once I realized that this was introducing noise in the shadow areas and making it all but impossible to maintain decent image quality whenever doing so I began exposing to the right. I would have to say that once I began exposing properly my image quality increased dramatically!
It’s never too late ;-)
Very helpful tips Attilio. Thank you.
🙏
Is a pleasure to watch your video with your advices and amazing photos. Thanks !
Thanks a lot Riccardo!
Great Job as usual "The ABC of Landscape photography" its so easy to make this mistakes specially arriving late and expose to the right thank you bro.
Thanks 🙏
i did some long exposures on waterfalls.......took 4 minute exposure because of my favorite f-11.......then f-16....got it down to 2 minutes------2 minute was alot better....4 minute too washed out......thought this might make a good topic for new video from u.......love your videos.....love your attitude!!!!!!!
Thanks Scott!
Good straightforward common sense. All well made points.
Thanks 🙏
Great set of tips, provided in a pleasent and concrete way! Many thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks a lot my friend!
Thank You Attilio most informative ..... I learn every time. With your last tip please advise which “prime” lenses you prefer for your landscape captures?
Thanks! I love the 20mm and the 50mm, you can find links in the video description... and I did make a video about this!
Looking forward to your composition vlog too . This is the area I need to improve the most.
Will do!
Thanks for the mostly useful suggestions. May I suggest you recommend shooting in both RAW and jpeg? Many of us don't process all our photos, often using a jpeg for a quick share with friends on social media or something. Not every photo will be a fine art capture.
You are so right that manual mode is not necessary to take a great photo, and the notion that all pros shoot all manual all the time is not true. But manual does have its place! I always use manual for pano frames, focus-stitching frames, and for astro. I know you do too if you do this sort of work. I suspect you're trying to keep this video simple and cannot cover every possible shooting scenario, but stitching and astro are very common shooting styles.
ETTR (Expose to the right) is not as important as it once was, especially with modern Sony and Nikon sensors. I am more concerned with overexposing and blowing out highlights. My camera will recover up to five stops of shadows from ISO 640 without introducing any noise, but if I blow a highlight, that part of the image is not recoverable. So my advice would be "Expose toward the right, but absolutely stay far enough left that you don't blow any highlights." I use a histo to make sure I shoot in the middle, more concerned about highlights than shadows.
Excellent advice about composition & lenses! I once read a pro landscape clicker's survey of his own work to see what focal length (or equivalent after cropping) he used most. I was mildly surprised that it was portrait-length/short telephoto! I say mildly surprised because I often tend to shoot too wide then have to crop in post, so I also use this length most. It is better to get great detail in several photos than to get everything without detail in a single shot.
Thanks for your feedback Derek! I appreciate it...
Thank you very much for the wonderful tutorial.
Thank you 🙏
Excellent video. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you
Hello Atillio, I see that you mention Lightroom. I use Capture One and was wondering if you used Capture One at all? or only lightroom. I will watch your videos on Lightroom and see if i can find similar ways of producing works like you. I am going to head to th e Northern Part of Vancouver Island soon . Thanks
never used Capture One, but I am sure that you can achieve the same results...
Love all your videos. So easy to follow. One question, where do I find the download links?
cosa intendi? (tutti i link sono nella descrizione...)
Rttilio , Very! good video . Great tips . I also shot JPEG's & exposed to the left.. You give good support to shoot in RAW and expose to the right without blowing out the highlights . Good ! Job. Thanks! Richard
Thanks 🙏
Love, love your videos!! Thank you so much.
Thank you Paloma!
Excellent ! clarified many doubts
Awesome! 👍
Adding to your comment about RAW... you can always shoot both RAW and JPEG. This way you get the kind-of ok pic straight from the camera for sharing immediately and the digital negative for post processing. With current SD card sizes, there is no reason not to. Unless you are at an event and need to shoot 1000s of pics.
Also...
Great tips..!! I've been trying to learn how to improve my landscape photography techniques since I'll be going on a holiday to New Zealand soon.. I've learned a lot from you in this couple of weeks..Thank you very much..!!
Happy to hear!
I'll your techniques on that Wanaka Tree and the Auckland Bridge... That was really great pictures..
@@ikromtamat1681 thanks!
"Expose to the right..." That's a great tip. I've been seeing that in my own shots, for sure.
Thanks 🙏
Great information. Thank you
Thank you 🙏
Great video again 😃 I would just like to mention that manual mode comes handy when stitching images for panoramas or composites. Maybe you should do a video on that 😉
maybe... :-)
Great suggestion PhotoPills!
Very good tips...thank you Attilio!
Thanks 🙏
Great stuff Atillio, I use wide zooms and I’m considering a Nikon 20mm due to your recommendation, will I miss my 16-35 zoom and will I be buying 3or 4 prime wides??
The 16-35 is a good lens, I use to have it too.
If you get the 20 you will not need much more...you might need to move a little more! ;-)
As a newbie I thought I was supposed to shoot in manual mode or risk forever being stuck in the "beginner" zone and looked down upon by the 'real' photographers. BTW How/what/why is your iPhone connected to your d810? Thanks for the tips as always.
Thanks for another really good video. Love the tips. So clear and sensible. I always shoot raw.
great advices, thanks for sharing!
Thank you 🙏