Scott your ability to explain things clearly and in an interesting way is brilliant. I'm so looking forward to building this and adapting for a project for my son. Thanks so much for posting your Arduino videos on TH-cam.
Working on the first try is something to be proud of - and not something that usually happens to me! I hope your class produces a bunch of great stuff.
This is a really great video! I'm using your info here to build an LED lantern/bluetooth speaker with VU meter effects. One minor correction: You need to download the FastLED library too, before you can compile this sketch.
Thank you very much Scott, I found this video full of useful information. I am hoping for making good product out of it on my channel, will definitely give credit to you.
Very informative- Thank you. I am looking to build similar with 20watt ws2811 spotlight operating at 12vdc- How does this change schematic with arduinio at 5vdc ?
Thanks for all this information you've shared Scott, it's extremely helpful. I'm looking to modify this for my use. My setup is 14 columns made from a single LED string in a serpentine arrangement. Any hints on modifying this code for my situation?
Thanks! I'm not completely sure what you're after, but if you have multiple strips you might be better looking at my video on how to do a vu meter on a matrix th-cam.com/video/Mgh2WblO5_c/w-d-xo.html is this more what you're after? Remember a matrix is literally just strips joined in a serpentine pattern :)
Hello, Thank you very much for that wonderful guide to make the ws2112b sound reactive. It was very easy to understand. I am very excited. But I have a question. I am currently rebuilding your great instructions and have already had success with the function. I'm not familiar with C++, but programming logic makes sense to me. I would now like to expand your program to include additional points (two more buttons). For this purpose, a second and later also a third button should be integrated into the program. When the Arduino starts, only the bottom pixels should light up red (like standby). If button 1 is pressed, the stripes should be a subtle ambient lighting (without reacting to music or noise), ideally different scenes by pressing button 1 again. I want to do this with different shades of white. If button 1 is pressed for a long time, the program jumps back to standby (only lower pixels red). If button 2 is pressed, then different lights with different colors should be selectable (similar to the functions/presets of a Stripe remote control) Button 3 should do everything, as usual, with sound (your program). Is it complicated to create this skeleton of the program? Is there possibly something that works according to this principle? I would do the pixel programming and ambient lighting myself later. But it would be cool if I could build on an existing concept. Do you have any tip for me? I would be very grateful
now I made it for myself. But without a second button. It starts into subtle ambient lighting. By buttonpush it switches like before. By long press it starts into the automatic mode but it ignores the cases 0 to 2 where the non sound reactive patterns are placed. Not a perfect solution, but it works for me.
Question: other similar projects rely on a Graphic Equalizer Display Filter (like Msgeq7). Is there any disadvantage to not using this additional chip?
The MSGEQ7 allows you to display the power in 7 different frequency bands meaning you can make a spectrum analyser VU meter. This version just displays the power level across the whole signal. So it depends what you're trying to achieve.
If I wanted ro use more LEDs, do I have to change the condensators? Sorry for bad english and not knowing this, but Im pretty new to this electronics stuff. Thanks!
Your probably better using this version th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html, I think this is fine for 60 LEDs per channel although I haven't tested it. For the audio jack into a breadboard you could use something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout-Module-Red-Arduino-Breadboard-Audio-4-Pin-Flux-Workshop/112166736596
Scott Marley Many thanks for the quick answer :-) Which connectors (Audio Jack) of the ones from "Ebay" do I have to use which are not identical with your Wiring Diagram ? 🙂
Rather than using a hard coded value for centering as you have (and I used to use): n = abs(n - 512 - DC_OFFSET); // Center on zero I've since started using an auto-leveling function at github.com/atuline/WLED/blob/master/wled00/audio_reactive.h on line 104 That micLev variable needs to be a float or you'll have some nasty rounding errors. This allows you to support multiple types of microphones/inputs without having to worry about the signal center. As for the Nano, I was able to get the Open Music Labs FFT/FHT library running on that back in the day, so you could get a LOT more than the 7 frequency bins what the MSGEQ7 provides. . . and no extra hardware required. These days, I'm using the ESP32 with WLED and support INMP411, INMP441 (digital), MAX4466, MAX9814 and line-input.
Hi Andrew, great to hear from you! I've moved on a fair bit since this stuff, and learning a lot as I'm going along. Thanks for all your guidance there, I'll definitely take a look at your recommendations. I'm currently working (slowly!) on an LED infinity cube which I plan to run from your sound reactive WLED fork - thanks so much for creating and maintaining it and making it much easier for us mere mortals to create some wonderful stuff. All the best!
@@AndrewTuline that's very much appreciated, but I don't think I'm there quite yet - some TH-cam channels are incredible quality these days. Still a long way to go!
Hello, such a valuable and inspirational project. I made some changes and reslised it ,then I combined your project with esp01. I can control the modes via my phone wirelessly. Can I share the project in my social media.
@@ScottMarley I use scarlett usb audio interface thats mean my output gain is higher than expected 3.5mm phone output.Even though when I set the max value from the usb card, the peak dots reaches last pixel barely. when I use phone output, peaks dont reach the last led pixels.What kind of changes should I do in order to implement the animation while use phone output?Which mean increases the sensitivity I am using the version that isnot included aref pins.
Did this voltage shift also Work with 3.3 volt instead of 5V? Because I Plan to use this project on an esp8266. I read that the Max output volt from the head Phone Jack is around 2 volt...
Very nice 👍 and well described.. Compared to other build videos like this.. As they tend to skip through the video in fast forward (No descriptions along the way) assuming that I know what I am doing. (With no schematic available) .. Thanks 😊.. I'll tryout your build with a a Bluetooth module.
I am using a 16x16 led sheet, total 256 pixels. if I set the pixels to 256 nothing happens, if I set it to 255 everything works great apart from that last pixel. Is there something else apart from N_PIXELS that I need to change to get that last pixel to work? Thanks
Hi Scott, great info. My question is do you have a tutorial or TH-cam on how to use the arduino fht? I don't know how you got the audio into frequency's. I am working on a project to fix an old incandescent color organ upgrading to neopixels. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Question..using an adruino is there latency? I'm not sure if it's lag in video/sound, but the few VU meters i have looked at a few, and all seem to be delayed a bit compared to the video.. Is it me or is there a bit of latency ?
There will be latency as to prevent the strips flickering madly, most vu meters average a number of readings. This smooths things out somewhat, but also introduces latency. So it's a trade off. There might be a clever way of not doing this, but I don't know what it is!
@@ScottMarley >> Thanks for the reply.. I been asking this question to many out there, and you're the only one who has answered my question.. The LM39xx series leds do seem to work better, but they can't do what the Arduino does. so I guess it's a trade off. I'm wanting to build this. It's hard to see all that you point out in the video, because things are smaller on youtube than you're screen. but you did explain it good enough that i can figure it out.. Thanks again...
Thank you very much for sharing this example! I am trying to use your circuit to detect if music is playing and flick a relay accordingly. Unfortunately when I try to determine this, from the analogRead() of one of the channels I receive only unsteady changing values between 400-600, even though the music is stopped. Do you have an idea on how to approach this or where my mistake is? 🤞
Mr Marley, a while ago I tried this project on a breadboard. It worked fine! But a couple of weeks ago i discovered that you also added a pcb on your github page with the code. So I ordered the pcb from jlcpcb. Tonight I tested it. The switch doesn't work. I think there's a fault in the pcb. The d3 pin should be pulled down to the ground with a resistor. But on the pcb the d3 is connected on the ground with a resistor permantley. And if you push the button the ground and d3 get connected to 5 volts. If I power the pcb, the vu's work and autopatterns. But no reaction on the switch. If I remove the 10k resistor from the pcb and I put a cable on d3 via an resistor and switch to ground it works perfectly. Could you check? Or is there something I have to change in the sketch? Greetz from holland
Hi Scott! I tried your project but unfortunately I discovered too late that you have the connections to the LEDs reversed and fried my stuff. Maybe you can fix that so no one else has the problem. I'm looking forward to trying it again when my new parts arrive.
Mr Manley, do you have a way to set this up using a 3.3v mic board instead of line input? been trying just about every sketch i can fine with no real luck your is beautiful just wanting mine portable 2x 30 led strip vertical on tv stand for effect
Thanks a lot!! very good job. it worked fine on an arduino uno, but still got some bugs with the mega2560. if you have advise that would be cool. thanks again.
If I were to just use one LED strip (300 LEDs), could I go for the stereo false alternative? Do I need to any other modifications to the circuit or code?
Great video, I would like to know where I change the duration time code in order to hold the peak time and also if possible to make the audio input more linear because the adjustment in the audio potentiometer is logarithmic and non-linear, a little stirring in the potentiometer already increases or decreases the sensitivity. I would like to have more control over the input range. thanks.
Hey man, thanks for the great vid, I'm new to arduino and am wondering if it's possible to adjust the sensitivity of the individual patterns? Most of them work well but 2 seem to be too sensitive and just max out. Thanks man
Great upload Scott. Well explained and thank you for sharing. Another project to put together during Covid-19 isolation. I have also been following the Cine-Lights projects over the years and did notice one of the codes you helped to edit (Second edition I think). Both of you have been doing great work I do have a question - how difficult would it be to edit this code to include a seperate brightness and volume sensitivity pot? Thanks again
Hi, thank you for your comments. Brightness would straightforward to do with basic Arduino knowledge. Wire up a pot as normal to an unused ADC pin, in the loop read the pot and map the reading to FastLED.setBrightness(). Sensitivity is more difficult. The issue is that aux level output is in the region of around 1 volt at high volumes, so you don't get a lot of dynamic range. The code here does scale automatically for lower volumes, but it becomes more difficult the lower the input voltage is. You could alter the NOISE value using a pot, but that's not entirely what you want. The proper way of doing it would be to have the input signal run through an opamp before it gets to the Arduino and use a pot to change the gain of the opamp. I didn't do this as I was trying to keep it simple. If I get around to it, I might make a futire video on how to add this.
Hi, I now have a video showing brightness and sensitivity controls, you can find it here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html Be aware that the circuit is a bit different than this one. Let me know how you get on if you decide to have a go!
@@ScottMarley Thank you Scott. I now have the parts and will make an attempt tomorrow. I will let you know how it went on the page linked above. Thanks again for posting this one.
When I try upload the code I am getting "serial was not declared in this scope" in each case. case 0: if (modeBtn.wasReleased()) { Serial.print("Short press, pattern "); Serial.println(buttonPushCounter); incrementButtonPushCounter(); autoChangeVisuals = false;
@@ScottMarley It's OK. I am working with ATTINY85's and tried loading it on one of those. The code is fine uploading to a Nano. I have managed to get a few patterns loaded and a brightness knob and a button for pattern selection onto an ATTINY85 µC. Makes project circuit board small.
I are you sure you need to send the MAX4466 output through cap and voltage divider? It seems to oscillate around 512 (511?) when I do an analogRead directly.
@@ScottMarley The reason I came across your video was because I'm trying to make a VU meter using MAX4466, but I want it to be adjustable as it will be used in different environments. I'm wondering if it would be possible to just connect the AREF pin through a pot. In quieter environments, the pot could be adjusted to lower the reference voltage which I'm thinking would scale up the output of the MAX4466... but not sure if that would work.
@@davepost7675 I don't see why that wouldn't work, sounds like a neat solution! These days I tend to go for digital mics such as the inmp441 which have a much cleaner output than the analog stuff, but they are more of a pain to set up and can only work with more advanced controllers which support i2s such as the ESP32.
Hi Scott - thank you for publishing this project, it's been a lot of fun to build. I've added a 1602 LCD panel to display the current pattern and sensitivity setting. I do notice some noise in the audio when the volume is turned up, especially when all the lights are activated. I do have a single 1000uf 16v capacitor spanning the power supply's +5v and ground, so maybe that's as good as it gets. Fortunately the audio volume covers up most of the noise! I'm planning on releasing an Instructable article showing the case and diffuser I've designed, I'll send you a link here when it's done.
Amazing, thank you for the comment! I've found the more capacitance the lower the noise goes, but I've never been able to get rid of it completely. Maybe an LC filter or something would work but I've never got round to looking at that.
The code for this will work on a mega the same as on a nano or uno. If you're using the other version of this found here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html check the comments on that video for a change you have to make to the code to have it run on a mega.
Yes. Might have to mess about with the I out level though as the ADC behaves differently. I haven't tried it so can't give you better advice I'm afraid!
Dear Scott! I Build the vu meter and works fine but I have a question: the c1 and c2 capacitor polarity in the build picture is c1 negative towards to jack and c2 rotated 180 degrees my question is why? And the connection is right or not? I build with vubeardboard.png but in the schematics picture does not indicate the c1 and c2 polarity. Please answer to me the right connections. Many thanks
The capacitor polarity here doesn't actually matter, they are seeing an AC signal so whichever way around you put it, it's 'wrong' half the time. As the voltages on a line signal are so low, it doesn't matter and it won't hurt the caps.
In the picture with the breadboard are the capacitors at the Audio Jack one of these is turned.The minus pole is once down and once up is this right? Sorry for bad english
Dear Sir, Thank you for the video and editable codes.. I made one with UNO, and is working fine.. Only issue is that the VU meter seems to be reacting upside down..! With every hike in bass/high input the number of led's glowing comes DOWN..! Is it not supposed to be the other way around..? clearly visible with VU4 & 40 led's per line Plz guide..
It's very hard to tell what might be happening without seeing your hardware. It sounds like it could be a grounding issue. Make sure you have good grounds between everything.
It doesn't matter which way they go, they are exposed to positive and negative voltages equally due to the sinusoidal nature of the audio input. The voltages are so small that it's not a problem.
If you're using an amplified mic like the max4466 or whatever, you don't need any of that circuit. Just wire the output from the mic directly to the analog pin and you're done!
@@ScottMarley ahh thats good to know, i knocked up a strip board layout with the nano onboard, so that will save me a few components....cheers man. i will breadboard it all up to test anyway first. nice one.
Hey Scott.. great job, hope your well during these rough times. Thanks for the comments and also the links.. much appreciated. one of the comments was volume and brightness control, which is quite spooky as it is the second most request on my channel, so its my next video. its vu meters only, again part of the request. code is done, 80% of the video is done - i just need to find the time to video it working.
Ah shoot, I'm currently doing a video on that too - I have it built on a breadboard next to me here! Mine will be different to yours anyhow, so hope you don't mind?! As per usual, I'll link back to you as the inspiration.
@@ScottMarleyHey no worries... i have been so busy, all i have to do is video it and i still haven't the time. i will gladly throw a link to your site for your hard work your doing too...
I put the video up last night here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html with some notes about how I got much more resolution by changing the analogReference to internal. It works well 😊
That's quite a project! You should be able to run 300 LEDs from a single Uno if you don't have too many patterns. If you want it to be stereo, you will need 2 unos as they won't have enough ram individually, and have each one run a separate channel. You will need to be careful with power, I would use a 10A 5V supply, 15A+ if your planning on having it quite bright and or fully lit. For 5m of LED tape you will need to inject power at least at both ends, I would consider doing it in the middle too although that's not essential. Good luck and I advise you to start my making a small one first to get used to it.
PS if you run some of the patterns I have on mine over 5m of LEDs, it will look completely insane and probably not what you're after. So you could probably write some patterns that work better on long strips.
Nice job. CineLights projects have inspired lots of people myself included. ;) Using the EEprom to store the button state is a good idea even given the limited write cycles available ..I think the '100k' write cycles should be enough for many years ...and the nano's are soooo cheap. nice github repo. very nice explanation in the video. The mic I prefer and use is the ADMP 401 mems mic's as they have a much much lower noise floor. I see you 'found' the answer to using a nano was to reduce the samples from the original 60 to a lower amount ....I found there is a limit though the lower you go the more 'twitchy' the resulting vu visuals are....have you seen this ???..just wondering if it my cheapo nano's have you thought of mapping the multiplier of the lvlRight/ lvlLeft variables using a pot attached to an analog pin for crude 'sensitivity' adjustment without editing the code each time...(using a mapped variable instead of the 7 multiplier) I know this works on Cinelights original code as I've done it. every so often I come back to making a vu meter for fun. you're link to Cinelights doesn't seem to work so try this th-cam.com/channels/OG6Bi2kvpDa1c8gHWZI5CQ.htmlvideos
Hi, thank you for your kind words and the heads up on the cinelights link, I've fixed it. You are correct, with samples set to 16 it does get twitchy. If I set the samples to 60, I can still run about 100 LEDs (50 per channel) with no problem. Wouldn't want to go much higher than that though! I think I'll update the code on GitHub for a higher sample number, it does definitely look better the higher that number is, but I didn't want people running out of ram using longer LED strings. I could definietly add pots to control various parameters, but I wanted to keep this as simple as possible, and I originally built this to use in the suitcase boombox you can see on the thumbnail image. I didn't want any external controls so I just left it at something that seemed to work ok. Thanks again!
nice job . but it didn't work . " rename it Uno_vu_line. I also forgot to mention in the video that you will need the FastLED library, along with JC_Button library." it's done There is this error massage; " In file included from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\Uno_vu_line.ino:5:0: C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/FastLED.h:14:21: note: #pragma message: FastLED version 3.003.003 # pragma message "FastLED version 3.003.003" ^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ In file included from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/controller.h:9:0, from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/FastLED.h:47, from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\Uno_vu_line.ino:5: C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu9.ino: In function 'soundtun()': C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/pixeltypes.h:169:17: warning: iteration 17 invokes undefined behavior [-Waggressive-loop-optimizations] r = rhs.r; ~~~~^ C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu10.ino:43:23: note: within this loop for (int i = 0; i < N_PIXELS; i++) { C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.39.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino\main.cpp: In function 'main': C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/pixeltypes.h:169:17: warning: iteration 17 invokes undefined behavior [-Waggressive-loop-optimizations] r = rhs.r; ^ C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu10.ino:43:23: note: within this loop for (int i = 0; i < N_PIXELS; i++) { ^
Hi, I've fixed that compiler warning, sorry about that. In vu10.ino, change line 43 to "for (int i = N_PIXELS - 1; i > 0; i--) {" (no quotes). I've also updated the code on github. Really, it's probably better if you use the followup video here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html and the code in the description to that video, it's a bit better.
Dear Sir, Thank you for the video and editable codes.. I made one with UNO, and is working fine.. Only issue is that the VU meter seems to be reacting upside down..! With every hike in bass/high input the number of let's glowing comes DOWN..! Is it not supposed to be the other way around..? Plz guide..
The right way to do it: Go through all the code deleting everything you don't need and reducing the code size massively. The wrong way to do it (but will work fine): Change line 87 to buttonPushCounter = 4; Done.
Thanks for this video , it is very detailed and explained well . Am sure this is pretty easy for anyone to remake. Do you think this would work with an attiny85
I'm pretty sure it won't work, even with a dramatic reduction in both the code size and the number of LEDs. As it compiles at the moment, its uses 20K of flash memory (the attiny85 only has 8K) and global variables take up 1220 bytes of SRAM (the attiny only has 512 bytes). You then need more SRAM available for the LEDS (3 bytes per LED) and any dynamic variables that are created during operation. So I'd say it's a no I'm afraid.
sir scott, can this circuit and program (codes) applies to different audio frequencies to achieve a spectrum analyzer. if possible please inform how to do it. thanks
i try today but i have a problem with nano: Sketch uses 20248 bytes (65%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes. Global variables use 2308 bytes (112%) of dynamic memory, leaving -260 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes. data section exceeds available space in board .....bla, bla. Some help please? (i want to left only vu4, 5, 6 for extra memory and stability). thanks for help. i use 2x66 leds
You’re fantastic Scott! I was able to create this during lockdown, thanks for so simplified steps and explanation. However I was trying to hook up 144 LED strip for each channel; it works but looks bit sluggish because of slow reaction speed and also almost 50 LEDs remain ON if there is no sound. I tried to tweak values but no luck:( It will much appreciates if you guide me to rectify these problems. Many Thanks!
What microcontroller are you running it on? If it's the nano, I'm not sure if it has enough ram to run that many LEDs, although I've never tried it so can't be sure. I haven't looked at the code for this in a while, could you try using the code and info in the follow up video here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html and see how you get in with that.
Thanks for reply, Scott. I am using nano but using only couple of patterns, so didn’t face any RAM issues, I hope it is not causing sluggish performance. Then I merged few changes from code of your other video, its better now. I will try to see if some more changes can improve the performance. Other thing is, I am using KY 037 microphone module, which is not good, will get MAX4466 in few days and will give it a try.
Quick question, Scott. I can't figure out the polarity of the 10uF capacitors. The fritziing diagram seems to have each oriented different but I assume they should be the same and I'm not sure which way.
It doesn't matter. The audio signal is alternating, so whichever way around you put it, it's 'wrong' half the time! As the signal is such low voltage, it won't cause any issues.
@@ScottMarley the polarity should be + to Arduino and - to the Audio Source ! because the higher Level is between the 2 10K Resistors ! The Software is great ! Thanks to Scott
It's a line in before the amplifier. If you wanted to use a speaker output, you would have to greatly attenuate the signal before passing it to the Arduino. I wouldn't recommend this unless you know what your doing!
Do you have the ability in code to split it into more channels? I am having a hard time piecing code together for a nano. I know memory is an issue but if i limit it to say 7 bands and 10 leds per band(70) , should still have plenty of memory i think
It's possible yes, but if your trying to split it into more channels, this project isn't the best starting point. Look up some of my more recent videos where I've created multichannel VU meters.
@@ScottMarley thanks for the direction. I have a good amount of LED projects with a mic and sound reactive (can check my channel). Just splitting a vu meter up on a nano has been the challenge
@@ScottMarley looked your videos and with help from some of Andrews new simple FFT, i have been able to add some new animations. Learned a bit too. Thanks for the recommendation. Sent me down a rabbit hole :D
Hey Scott. Im trying to build this in my Arduino UNO but it isnt working. Im new to this so i dont even know what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated!
Happy to help, but I need a bit more to go on I'm afraid! In what way isn't it working? Does it compile? Does anything happen / light up? Are you using a microphone or line in? Do you get any error messages? Give me as much information as you can.
@@MuhammadAhmedMuqtadir1 None of the code variants compile in Arduino Uno. The message is: "Compilation error for Arduino Uno board". Please can you help me. Thank you.
I'm making something similar and I am struggling with getting an audio signal to the analog pins. What did you use as your signal source? A mic or a speaker?
I'm using a line-in on this (aux cable). If you want to increase the sensitivity / dynamic range, see this verison th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html
@@ScottMarley thanks for the reply Scott. I'm asking because im making a similar project. Are you using a speaker or a laptop line out or something else?
@@ScottMarley I've got a phone that has a USB C connector, do you reckon it would still work when paired with a USB C to 3.5mm cable? In any case thank you so much man, you have dug me out of a hole.
That will work also in 3.3 v boards? Esp32 is very powerful and also have Bluetooth and wifi. I think you can get extra options for control. I guess I have to change that voltage devider resistors? You have any suggestions? Thx.
This will work fine with the ESP32. You will have to be careful with the power though. I'm assuming you're using a dev board with a 3.3v regulator on it. Give 5V to the ESP board Vin, and use the 3V3 pin go to the resistor divider. The LEDs will need 5V to power them. The data out pins from the ESP32 will be 3.3V logic level, but in my experience WS2812B LEDs work fine with 3.3V on the data pin even though they are specified to use 5V (see my LED matrix video to see that this works).
@@ScottMarley yes, i want to use one board with 3.3v regulator. Driving Led part i do not think will be a problem. I will use level shifter if i will have to, only problem i see will be at analog signal level input from microphone. Esp can read 3.3 v max. Your arduino 5 v. So, i guess, if analog signal level is higher than 3.3 v will not work as i expected. Any idea how high will be analog output voltage level after voltage dividers? Exceed 3.3 v?
@@petrepetercristi are you using a preamplified microphone? Like this one www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electret-Microphone-Amplifier-MAX4466-with-Adjustable-Gain/273149609781?hash=item3f98fc4735:g:JDMAAOSwxfdaywKx if so, just power the microphone with 3.3V then you won't exceed the analog input voltage of the esp
@@burapat4100 are you sure you have a 10k resistor and not a 10 ohm resistor? If wired correctly, these resistors will not get warm. Check your resistor values with a multimeter and check all of your connections.
@@burapat4100 then you definitely have a fault in your circuit. I can't really diagnose it much further than that without seeing what you've done I'm afraid.
No problem, if you have the RAM available I would increase SAMPLES to 60 or so, that way you get smoother operation. I'd love to see a video once you're done!
System all tested and working OK. Fitting mic's each end of main box and clipping a set of stereo headphones to isolate everything from our broadcasting equipment for electrically isolating safety reasons.Have ordered these hopefully do the job. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MROLRJN/ref=twister_B08221VDT1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi, I'd like to know if you made some modification in the main code. I tried on an UNO it worked fine. but no response on a MEGA2560. the code get stuck i the begining of the loop. Any advice? thanks you.
@@mehdihajsassi1499 Hi Medhi, Mine runs on a MEGA2560 did'nt need to modify code except for MAX_MILLIAMPS 1000 current draw. I have also added 3 new buttons and a tri-colour LED and modified the code to change the RGB set-up on boot up, to give different patterns. Otherwise the code is as Scott wrote it.
Scott your ability to explain things clearly and in an interesting way is brilliant. I'm so looking forward to building this and adapting for a project for my son. Thanks so much for posting your Arduino videos on TH-cam.
Thanks for all the work you did on this video. Worked on the first try. Great project for my electronics class. Thanks.
Working on the first try is something to be proud of - and not something that usually happens to me! I hope your class produces a bunch of great stuff.
This is a really great video! I'm using your info here to build an LED lantern/bluetooth speaker with VU meter effects. One minor correction: You need to download the FastLED library too, before you can compile this sketch.
Glad you found it useful!
Thank you very much Scott, I found this video full of useful information. I am hoping for making good product out of it on my channel, will definitely give credit to you.
Hello engineer, this is what I am looking for, I thank you for sharing the code and circuit diagram, I wish you all the best and a happy life👍
mee too thx
Thanks for the great video. Very well explained!
Very informative- Thank you. I am looking to build similar with 20watt ws2811 spotlight operating at 12vdc- How does this change schematic with arduinio at 5vdc ?
input audio is simplistic enough. wonder if this would also work with just 1 channel only and shrinkified ☺
Tank you for this great project. I just built it and its awsome.
Glad to hear it's worked for you!
Thanks for all this information you've shared Scott, it's extremely helpful. I'm looking to modify this for my use. My setup is 14 columns made from a single LED string in a serpentine arrangement. Any hints on modifying this code for my situation?
Thanks! I'm not completely sure what you're after, but if you have multiple strips you might be better looking at my video on how to do a vu meter on a matrix th-cam.com/video/Mgh2WblO5_c/w-d-xo.html is this more what you're after? Remember a matrix is literally just strips joined in a serpentine pattern :)
Great tutorial, Very clearly explained. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Hey Scott,
Would you help me to remove that EProm section from the code?
It would be so much helpful
Hoping for a reply
Great tutorial. Does this code work with the mic input too?
Hello,
Thank you very much for that wonderful guide to make the ws2112b sound reactive. It was very easy to understand. I am very excited. But I have a question. I am currently rebuilding your great instructions and have already had success with the function.
I'm not familiar with C++, but programming logic makes sense to me.
I would now like to expand your program to include additional points (two more buttons).
For this purpose, a second and later also a third button should be integrated into the program.
When the Arduino starts, only the bottom pixels should light up red (like standby).
If button 1 is pressed, the stripes should be a subtle ambient lighting (without reacting to music or noise), ideally different scenes
by pressing button 1 again. I want to do this with different shades of white.
If button 1 is pressed for a long time, the program jumps back to standby (only lower pixels red).
If button 2 is pressed, then different lights with different colors should be selectable (similar to the functions/presets of a Stripe remote control)
Button 3 should do everything, as usual, with sound (your program).
Is it complicated to create this skeleton of the program? Is there possibly something that works according to this principle?
I would do the pixel programming and ambient lighting myself later.
But it would be cool if I could build on an existing concept. Do you have any tip for me? I would be very grateful
now I made it for myself. But without a second button. It starts into subtle ambient lighting. By buttonpush it switches like before. By long press it starts into the automatic mode but it ignores the cases 0 to 2 where the non sound reactive patterns are placed. Not a perfect solution, but it works for me.
Hello, great project.
What type of audio jack did you use? Thank you
It's not really important, I used a standard 3.5mm jack
Please make a video about the code walkthrough of the vu meter
Sir, this is very helpful.
what library are you using?
Question: other similar projects rely on a Graphic Equalizer Display Filter (like Msgeq7). Is there any disadvantage to not using this additional chip?
The MSGEQ7 allows you to display the power in 7 different frequency bands meaning you can make a spectrum analyser VU meter. This version just displays the power level across the whole signal. So it depends what you're trying to achieve.
我想用麦克风接收音频信号可以吗？Can I install a microphone on this to receive audio signals?
If I wanted ro use more LEDs, do I have to change the condensators? Sorry for bad english and not knowing this, but Im pretty new to this electronics stuff. Thanks!
No, the capacitor values are fine with more LEDs.
@@ScottMarley thanks! Looking forward to install this in my pool
can you make it work on esp8266 also?
i did it
Super project :-) is the code also available for 60 Led's ? How to buy the "Audi Jack" - I can't find it in the internet ?
Your probably better using this version th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html, I think this is fine for 60 LEDs per channel although I haven't tested it. For the audio jack into a breadboard you could use something like this www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Breakout-Module-Red-Arduino-Breadboard-Audio-4-Pin-Flux-Workshop/112166736596
Scott Marley Many thanks for the quick answer :-) Which connectors (Audio Jack) of the ones from "Ebay" do I have to use which are not identical with your Wiring Diagram ? 🙂
Can I use the project with Line In or Microphone ?
Rather than using a hard coded value for centering as you have (and I used to use): n = abs(n - 512 - DC_OFFSET); // Center on zero
I've since started using an auto-leveling function at github.com/atuline/WLED/blob/master/wled00/audio_reactive.h on line 104
That micLev variable needs to be a float or you'll have some nasty rounding errors. This allows you to support multiple types of microphones/inputs without having to worry about the signal center.
As for the Nano, I was able to get the Open Music Labs FFT/FHT library running on that back in the day, so you could get a LOT more than the 7 frequency bins what the MSGEQ7 provides. . . and no extra hardware required. These days, I'm using the ESP32 with WLED and support INMP411, INMP441 (digital), MAX4466, MAX9814 and line-input.
Hi Andrew, great to hear from you! I've moved on a fair bit since this stuff, and learning a lot as I'm going along. Thanks for all your guidance there, I'll definitely take a look at your recommendations. I'm currently working (slowly!) on an LED infinity cube which I plan to run from your sound reactive WLED fork - thanks so much for creating and maintaining it and making it much easier for us mere mortals to create some wonderful stuff. All the best!
@@ScottMarley - My pleasuire to help. Oh, and your TH-cam video here is extremely well done. My stuff is potato quality in comparison. :D
@@AndrewTuline that's very much appreciated, but I don't think I'm there quite yet - some TH-cam channels are incredible quality these days. Still a long way to go!
Hello, such a valuable and inspirational project. I made some changes and reslised it ,then I combined your project with esp01. I can control the modes via my phone wirelessly. Can I share the project in my social media.
You can do whatever you like - these projects are all open source for people to hack on and play with! Thank you for your comments :)
@@ScottMarley I use scarlett usb audio interface thats mean my output gain is higher than expected 3.5mm phone output.Even though when I set the max value from the usb card, the peak dots reaches last pixel barely. when I use phone output, peaks dont reach the last led pixels.What kind of changes should I do in order to implement the animation while use phone output?Which mean increases the sensitivity I am using the version that isnot included aref pins.
Hello sir, its saying error compiling for board arduino uno, please help me
I recommend you try the code linked from this updated video and see if that helps th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html
@@ScottMarley 👍🏻
yes
Sir Vu meter coding android phone
You Do plz
Can you please make these controllers in china for cheap lol
Great video! I’m new to arduino and have been looking to take on a fun project like this. Thanks for including so many details.
No problem, this can take a bit of fiddling to get right, but best of luck!
soo cool
Creators like you is what youtube is for. So helpful and informative 👏 many thanks and much love!
Thank you!
Did this voltage shift also Work with 3.3 volt instead of 5V? Because I Plan to use this project on an esp8266. I read that the Max output volt from the head Phone Jack is around 2 volt...
Fantastic video & information.
I've tried a few different sound projects and this is by far the best, thank you for posting.
Glad it was useful to you!
Very nice 👍 and well described.. Compared to other build videos like this.. As they tend to skip through the video in fast forward (No descriptions along the way) assuming that I know what I am doing. (With no schematic available) .. Thanks 😊.. I'll tryout your build with a a Bluetooth module.
what is the voltage of the capacitors?
Anything greater than the power supply which in this case is 5V. I'd go with 16V caps, but 10V would be fine.
I am using a 16x16 led sheet, total 256 pixels. if I set the pixels to 256 nothing happens, if I set it to 255 everything works great apart from that last pixel. Is there something else apart from N_PIXELS that I need to change to get that last pixel to work? Thanks
YES! FINALLY! A project with an actual line in jack, and not a microphone.
Yes man
You are a hero 🥺😭🔥🇩🇪
how change effects with buton ?
Hi Scott. Can u please show us how to adapt your code for esp32?
Please. Thanks in advance
I'd be interested in this too
@@matthewhicks8362 it won't be possible to make it work on esp32
@@IlIDINOIlI do you know why?
@@matthewhicks8362 not really. Take a look on WLED sound reactive
Hello, can you also use Arduino mega and a micro for this project. Greetings Lutz
Nice Effects
explained very well 😍😍👌🏼👌🏼
how to edit code if i just use 1 stripe led and 1 chanel left or right ? , im so bad at code
How could it be modified to use the computer's audio via USB connection Thanks
Processing the digital usb audio directly would be difficult. An easy solution would be to buy a usb audio to 3.5mm adapter and use that.
hello can i do this with an arduino uno
Hi Scott, great info. My question is do you have a tutorial or TH-cam on how to use the arduino fht? I don't know how you got the audio into frequency's. I am working on a project to fix an old incandescent color organ upgrading to neopixels. Thank you for any help you can provide.
This might help m.th-cam.com/video/Mgh2WblO5_c/w-d-xo.html
Hey, quick question, which kind of Audio jack did you use?
Just a normal 3.5mm jack
Great video, but unfortunately it doesn’t work for me. Works only with mic . Audio jack does not work. What could be wrong ?
Thanks.
Ok ,it works now.
Question..using an adruino is there latency? I'm not sure if it's lag in video/sound, but the few VU meters i have looked at a few, and all seem to be delayed a bit compared to the video.. Is it me or is there a bit of latency ?
There will be latency as to prevent the strips flickering madly, most vu meters average a number of readings. This smooths things out somewhat, but also introduces latency. So it's a trade off. There might be a clever way of not doing this, but I don't know what it is!
@@ScottMarley >> Thanks for the reply.. I been asking this question to many out there, and you're the only one who has answered my question.. The LM39xx series leds do seem to work better, but they can't do what the Arduino does. so I guess it's a trade off. I'm wanting to build this. It's hard to see all that you point out in the video, because things are smaller on youtube than you're screen. but you did explain it good enough that i can figure it out..
Thanks again...
Thank you very much for sharing this example!
I am trying to use your circuit to detect if music is playing and flick a relay accordingly.
Unfortunately when I try to determine this, from the analogRead() of one of the channels I receive only unsteady changing values between 400-600, even though the music is stopped.
Do you have an idea on how to approach this or where my mistake is? 🤞
Mr Marley, a while ago I tried this project on a breadboard. It worked fine! But a couple of weeks ago i discovered that you also added a pcb on your github page with the code. So I ordered the pcb from jlcpcb. Tonight I tested it. The switch doesn't work. I think there's a fault in the pcb. The d3 pin should be pulled down to the ground with a resistor. But on the pcb the d3 is connected on the ground with a resistor permantley. And if you push the button the ground and d3 get connected to 5 volts. If I power the pcb, the vu's work and autopatterns. But no reaction on the switch. If I remove the 10k resistor from the pcb and I put a cable on d3 via an resistor and switch to ground it works perfectly.
Could you check? Or is there something I have to change in the sketch? Greetz from holland
Hi Scott! I tried your project but unfortunately I discovered too late that you have the connections to the LEDs reversed and fried my stuff. Maybe you can fix that so no one else has the problem. I'm looking forward to trying it again when my new parts arrive.
Mr Manley,
do you have a way to set this up using a 3.3v mic board instead of line input?
been trying just about every sketch i can fine with no real luck
your is beautiful just wanting mine portable 2x 30 led strip vertical
on tv stand for effect
Thanks a lot!! very good job. it worked fine on an arduino uno, but still got some bugs with the mega2560. if you have advise that would be cool. thanks again.
If I were to just use one LED strip (300 LEDs), could I go for the stereo false alternative? Do I need to any other modifications to the circuit or code?
thanks for this very helpful can you also upload the actual photos to follow for people like who cant read schematics thank you GOD Bless
Great video, I would like to know where I change the duration time code in order to hold the peak time and also if possible to make the audio input more linear because the adjustment in the audio potentiometer is logarithmic and non-linear, a little stirring in the potentiometer already increases or decreases the sensitivity. I would like to have more control over the input range. thanks.
Excellent video, really changed my understanding and the project looks great. Thanks and enjoy the coffee
Hey man, thanks for the great vid, I'm new to arduino and am wondering if it's possible to adjust the sensitivity of the individual patterns? Most of them work well but 2 seem to be too sensitive and just max out. Thanks man
Great upload Scott. Well explained and thank you for sharing. Another project to put together during Covid-19 isolation. I have also been following the Cine-Lights projects over the years and did notice one of the codes you helped to edit (Second edition I think). Both of you have been doing great work
I do have a question - how difficult would it be to edit this code to include a seperate brightness and volume sensitivity pot?
Thanks again
Hi, thank you for your comments. Brightness would straightforward to do with basic Arduino knowledge. Wire up a pot as normal to an unused ADC pin, in the loop read the pot and map the reading to FastLED.setBrightness(). Sensitivity is more difficult. The issue is that aux level output is in the region of around 1 volt at high volumes, so you don't get a lot of dynamic range. The code here does scale automatically for lower volumes, but it becomes more difficult the lower the input voltage is. You could alter the NOISE value using a pot, but that's not entirely what you want. The proper way of doing it would be to have the input signal run through an opamp before it gets to the Arduino and use a pot to change the gain of the opamp. I didn't do this as I was trying to keep it simple. If I get around to it, I might make a futire video on how to add this.
Thank you for the reply Scott.
Hi, I now have a video showing brightness and sensitivity controls, you can find it here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html Be aware that the circuit is a bit different than this one. Let me know how you get on if you decide to have a go!
@@ScottMarley Thank you Scott. I now have the parts and will make an attempt tomorrow. I will let you know how it went on the page linked above. Thanks again for posting this one.
When I try upload the code I am getting "serial was not declared in this scope" in each case.
case 0:
if (modeBtn.wasReleased()) {
Serial.print("Short press, pattern ");
Serial.println(buttonPushCounter);
incrementButtonPushCounter();
autoChangeVisuals = false;
That's odd. Serial.begin(57600); is declared in the setup function. Make sure your code has that in place.
@@ScottMarley It has. I used your code without changing anything. I don't get it.
@@ScottMarley It's OK. I am working with ATTINY85's and tried loading it on one of those. The code is fine uploading to a Nano.
I have managed to get a few patterns loaded and a brightness knob and a button for pattern selection onto an ATTINY85 µC. Makes project circuit board small.
I are you sure you need to send the MAX4466 output through cap and voltage divider? It seems to oscillate around 512 (511?) when I do an analogRead directly.
You are correct, you don't need to do this, as the MAX board has these built in.
@@ScottMarley The reason I came across your video was because I'm trying to make a VU meter using MAX4466, but I want it to be adjustable as it will be used in different environments. I'm wondering if it would be possible to just connect the AREF pin through a pot. In quieter environments, the pot could be adjusted to lower the reference voltage which I'm thinking would scale up the output of the MAX4466... but not sure if that would work.
@@davepost7675 I don't see why that wouldn't work, sounds like a neat solution! These days I tend to go for digital mics such as the inmp441 which have a much cleaner output than the analog stuff, but they are more of a pain to set up and can only work with more advanced controllers which support i2s such as the ESP32.
Hi Scott - thank you for publishing this project, it's been a lot of fun to build. I've added a 1602 LCD panel to display the current pattern and sensitivity setting. I do notice some noise in the audio when the volume is turned up, especially when all the lights are activated. I do have a single 1000uf 16v capacitor spanning the power supply's +5v and ground, so maybe that's as good as it gets. Fortunately the audio volume covers up most of the noise! I'm planning on releasing an Instructable article showing the case and diffuser I've designed, I'll send you a link here when it's done.
Amazing, thank you for the comment! I've found the more capacitance the lower the noise goes, but I've never been able to get rid of it completely. Maybe an LC filter or something would work but I've never got round to looking at that.
how can i use this code mega 2560 ?
The code for this will work on a mega the same as on a nano or uno. If you're using the other version of this found here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html check the comments on that video for a change you have to make to the code to have it run on a mega.
@@ScottMarley ok thanks
Is it possible to use it on a ESP32? Great work!
Yes. Might have to mess about with the I out level though as the ADC behaves differently. I haven't tried it so can't give you better advice I'm afraid!
@@ScottMarley Thank you, i will try and see if works properly
Most excellent! Very well done.
Dear Scott! I Build the vu meter and works fine but I have a question: the c1 and c2 capacitor polarity in the build picture is c1 negative towards to jack and c2 rotated 180 degrees my question is why? And the connection is right or not? I build with vubeardboard.png but in the schematics picture does not indicate the c1 and c2 polarity. Please answer to me the right connections. Many thanks
The capacitor polarity here doesn't actually matter, they are seeing an AC signal so whichever way around you put it, it's 'wrong' half the time. As the voltages on a line signal are so low, it doesn't matter and it won't hurt the caps.
In the picture with the breadboard are the capacitors at the Audio Jack one of these is turned.The minus pole is once down and once up is this right? Sorry for bad english
It doesn't matter in this case. The voltages are so small, and it's an ac signal so whichever way you put them it will be ok.
I have a couple of Nanos with ATMega168PA and unfortunately your code is too big for it :-\ However, great tutorial.
Yeah, only 1k of RAM on those things. Just get a normal nano. They're only like 3 bucks :)
Dear Sir,
Thank you for the video and editable codes..
I made one with UNO, and is working fine..
Only issue is that the VU meter seems to be reacting upside down..! With every hike in bass/high input the number of led's glowing comes DOWN..! Is it not supposed to be the other way around..? clearly visible with VU4 & 40 led's per line
Plz guide..
It's very hard to tell what might be happening without seeing your hardware. It sounds like it could be a grounding issue. Make sure you have good grounds between everything.
cool, im guessing the C1/C2 are electrolytics with the + towards the audio jack?......thanks .
It doesn't matter which way they go, they are exposed to positive and negative voltages equally due to the sinusoidal nature of the audio input. The voltages are so small that it's not a problem.
@@ScottMarley ahh gotya...excellent, thanks, im going to use just the mic so i will mono the input.
If you're using an amplified mic like the max4466 or whatever, you don't need any of that circuit. Just wire the output from the mic directly to the analog pin and you're done!
@@ScottMarley ahh thats good to know, i knocked up a strip board layout with the nano onboard, so that will save me a few components....cheers man. i will breadboard it all up to test anyway first. nice one.
Hey Scott.. great job, hope your well during these rough times. Thanks for the comments and also the links.. much appreciated. one of the comments was volume and brightness control, which is quite spooky as it is the second most request on my channel, so its my next video. its vu meters only, again part of the request. code is done, 80% of the video is done - i just need to find the time to video it working.
Ah shoot, I'm currently doing a video on that too - I have it built on a breadboard next to me here! Mine will be different to yours anyhow, so hope you don't mind?! As per usual, I'll link back to you as the inspiration.
@@ScottMarleyHey no worries... i have been so busy, all i have to do is video it and i still haven't the time. i will gladly throw a link to your site for your hard work your doing too...
I put the video up last night here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html with some notes about how I got much more resolution by changing the analogReference to internal. It works well 😊
Hi. Is it possible to use KY-037 on place of MAX4466?
In theory you could, but I don't know what it's noise characteristics are like. These cheap analog microphones are very variable.
I want to make a VU meter with 5meters of 60 led per meter I have ws2812b addressable and 3 Arduino uno
That's quite a project! You should be able to run 300 LEDs from a single Uno if you don't have too many patterns. If you want it to be stereo, you will need 2 unos as they won't have enough ram individually, and have each one run a separate channel. You will need to be careful with power, I would use a 10A 5V supply, 15A+ if your planning on having it quite bright and or fully lit. For 5m of LED tape you will need to inject power at least at both ends, I would consider doing it in the middle too although that's not essential. Good luck and I advise you to start my making a small one first to get used to it.
PS if you run some of the patterns I have on mine over 5m of LEDs, it will look completely insane and probably not what you're after. So you could probably write some patterns that work better on long strips.
Hey could you write some code for me I only want 3 patterns thnx
Nice job.
CineLights projects have inspired lots of people myself included. ;)
Using the EEprom to store the button state is a good idea even given the limited write cycles available ..I think the '100k' write cycles should be enough for many years ...and the nano's are soooo cheap.
nice github repo.
very nice explanation in the video.
The mic I prefer and use is the ADMP 401 mems mic's as they have a much much lower noise floor.
I see you 'found' the answer to using a nano was to reduce the samples from the original 60 to a lower amount ....I found there is a limit though the lower you go the more 'twitchy' the resulting vu visuals are....have you seen this ???..just wondering if it my cheapo nano's
have you thought of mapping the multiplier of the lvlRight/ lvlLeft variables using a pot attached to an analog pin for crude 'sensitivity' adjustment without editing the code each time...(using a mapped variable instead of the 7 multiplier)
I know this works on Cinelights original code as I've done it.
every so often I come back to making a vu meter for fun.
you're link to Cinelights doesn't seem to work so try this
th-cam.com/channels/OG6Bi2kvpDa1c8gHWZI5CQ.htmlvideos
Hi, thank you for your kind words and the heads up on the cinelights link, I've fixed it. You are correct, with samples set to 16 it does get twitchy. If I set the samples to 60, I can still run about 100 LEDs (50 per channel) with no problem. Wouldn't want to go much higher than that though! I think I'll update the code on GitHub for a higher sample number, it does definitely look better the higher that number is, but I didn't want people running out of ram using longer LED strings.
I could definietly add pots to control various parameters, but I wanted to keep this as simple as possible, and I originally built this to use in the suitcase boombox you can see on the thumbnail image. I didn't want any external controls so I just left it at something that seemed to work ok.
Thanks again!
nice job .
but it didn't work .
" rename it Uno_vu_line. I also forgot to mention in the video that you will need the FastLED library, along with JC_Button library." it's done
There is this error massage;
"
In file included from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\Uno_vu_line.ino:5:0:
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/FastLED.h:14:21: note: #pragma message: FastLED version 3.003.003
# pragma message "FastLED version 3.003.003"
^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In file included from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/controller.h:9:0,
from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/FastLED.h:47,
from C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\Uno_vu_line.ino:5:
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu9.ino: In function 'soundtun()':
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/pixeltypes.h:169:17: warning: iteration 17 invokes undefined behavior [-Waggressive-loop-optimizations]
r = rhs.r;
~~~~^
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu10.ino:43:23: note: within this loop
for (int i = 0; i < N_PIXELS; i++) {
C:\Program Files\WindowsApps\ArduinoLLC.ArduinoIDE_1.8.39.0_x86__mdqgnx93n4wtt\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino\main.cpp: In function 'main':
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Documents\Arduino\libraries\FastLED/pixeltypes.h:169:17: warning: iteration 17 invokes undefined behavior [-Waggressive-loop-optimizations]
r = rhs.r;
^
C:\Users\Umit-PC\Desktop\vu\Uno_vu_line\vu10.ino:43:23: note: within this loop
for (int i = 0; i < N_PIXELS; i++) {
^
Let me look into this later today, I haven't seen that error before.
Hi, I've fixed that compiler warning, sorry about that. In vu10.ino, change line 43 to "for (int i = N_PIXELS - 1; i > 0; i--) {" (no quotes). I've also updated the code on github. Really, it's probably better if you use the followup video here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html and the code in the description to that video, it's a bit better.
Dear Sir,
Thank you for the video and editable codes..
I made one with UNO, and is working fine..
Only issue is that the VU meter seems to be reacting upside down..! With every hike in bass/high input the number of let's glowing comes DOWN..! Is it not supposed to be the other way around..?
Plz guide..
hi, really good job really.
I wanted to know how to eliminate the other modes to only use vu 6 would you help me a lot
The right way to do it: Go through all the code deleting everything you don't need and reducing the code size massively. The wrong way to do it (but will work fine): Change line 87 to buttonPushCounter = 4; Done.
Thanks for this video , it is very detailed and explained well . Am sure this is pretty easy for anyone to remake. Do you think this would work with an attiny85
I'm pretty sure it won't work, even with a dramatic reduction in both the code size and the number of LEDs. As it compiles at the moment, its uses 20K of flash memory (the attiny85 only has 8K) and global variables take up 1220 bytes of SRAM (the attiny only has 512 bytes). You then need more SRAM available for the LEDS (3 bytes per LED) and any dynamic variables that are created during operation. So I'd say it's a no I'm afraid.
sir scott, can this circuit and program (codes) applies to different audio frequencies to achieve a spectrum analyzer. if possible please inform how to do it. thanks
I've done something similar with my VU meter th-cam.com/video/Mgh2WblO5_c/w-d-xo.html
@@ScottMarley thanks
great job! please specify, with type are the capacitrors? electrolitics? it is unclear...sorry for my english...
I used ceramics for the audio input but it doesn't really matter. Use electrolytics for bulk storage cap.
@@ScottMarley thank you!
Next week i will try
i try today but i have a problem with nano: Sketch uses 20248 bytes (65%) of program storage space. Maximum is 30720 bytes.
Global variables use 2308 bytes (112%) of dynamic memory, leaving -260 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes.
data section exceeds available space in board
.....bla, bla. Some help please? (i want to left only vu4, 5, 6 for extra memory and stability). thanks for help. i use 2x66 leds
You’re fantastic Scott! I was able to create this during lockdown, thanks for so simplified steps and explanation. However I was trying to hook up 144 LED strip for each channel; it works but looks bit sluggish because of slow reaction speed and also almost 50 LEDs remain ON if there is no sound. I tried to tweak values but no luck:( It will much appreciates if you guide me to rectify these problems.
Many Thanks!
What microcontroller are you running it on? If it's the nano, I'm not sure if it has enough ram to run that many LEDs, although I've never tried it so can't be sure. I haven't looked at the code for this in a while, could you try using the code and info in the follow up video here th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html and see how you get in with that.
Thanks for reply, Scott. I am using nano but using only couple of patterns, so didn’t face any RAM issues, I hope it is not causing sluggish performance. Then I merged few changes from code of your other video, its better now. I will try to see if some more changes can improve the performance. Other thing is, I am using KY 037 microphone module, which is not good, will get MAX4466 in few days and will give it a try.
Quick question, Scott. I can't figure out the polarity of the 10uF capacitors. The fritziing diagram seems to have each oriented different but I assume they should be the same and I'm not sure which way.
It doesn't matter. The audio signal is alternating, so whichever way around you put it, it's 'wrong' half the time! As the signal is such low voltage, it won't cause any issues.
Ahh yes, of course. That makes perfect sense. Thanks.
@@ScottMarley the polarity should be + to Arduino and - to the Audio Source ! because the higher Level is between the 2 10K Resistors !
The Software is great ! Thanks to Scott
Sent over to you by Cine-lights. Subbed. Great work on this and your other projects!
Thanks, I'm really grateful to him for linking to me! Working on an LED mask at the moment, there will be a video on it at some point
verry nice, how much is the maximum watts of audio in ? or is it a line signal before the amplifier?
It's a line in before the amplifier. If you wanted to use a speaker output, you would have to greatly attenuate the signal before passing it to the Arduino. I wouldn't recommend this unless you know what your doing!
@@ScottMarley I am okay with that line in signal, verry nice thank you
Do you have the ability in code to split it into more channels? I am having a hard time piecing code together for a nano. I know memory is an issue but if i limit it to say 7 bands and 10 leds per band(70) , should still have plenty of memory i think
It's possible yes, but if your trying to split it into more channels, this project isn't the best starting point. Look up some of my more recent videos where I've created multichannel VU meters.
@@ScottMarley thanks for the direction. I have a good amount of LED projects with a mic and sound reactive (can check my channel). Just splitting a vu meter up on a nano has been the challenge
@@ScottMarley looked your videos and with help from some of Andrews new simple FFT, i have been able to add some new animations. Learned a bit too. Thanks for the recommendation. Sent me down a rabbit hole :D
@@WillHartley brilliant, thanks for letting me know!
Hey Scott. Im trying to build this in my Arduino UNO but it isnt working. Im new to this so i dont even know what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated!
Happy to help, but I need a bit more to go on I'm afraid! In what way isn't it working? Does it compile? Does anything happen / light up? Are you using a microphone or line in? Do you get any error messages? Give me as much information as you can.
PS you might be better using this version of you have the parts, its more responsive. th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html
@@ScottMarley ok I'll try that. Thanks
@@MuhammadAhmedMuqtadir1 None of the code variants compile in Arduino Uno. The message is: "Compilation error for Arduino Uno board". Please can you help me. Thank you.
I'm making something similar and I am struggling with getting an audio signal to the analog pins. What did you use as your signal source? A mic or a speaker?
I'm using a line-in on this (aux cable). If you want to increase the sensitivity / dynamic range, see this verison th-cam.com/video/Nhc9MvOH0Gs/w-d-xo.html
@@ScottMarley thanks for the reply Scott. I'm asking because im making a similar project. Are you using a speaker or a laptop line out or something else?
@@gooncaveenthusiast doesn't matter too much, I have used my phone, and my laptop as output devices.
@@ScottMarley I've got a phone that has a USB C connector, do you reckon it would still work when paired with a USB C to 3.5mm cable?
In any case thank you so much man, you have dug me out of a hole.
your setup is single channel?
It can be either. In the code there is a define called STEREO if this is set to true, it is two channel, if set to false, there is one channel.
@@ScottMarley ok. thanks
That will work also in 3.3 v boards? Esp32 is very powerful and also have Bluetooth and wifi. I think you can get extra options for control. I guess I have to change that voltage devider resistors? You have any suggestions? Thx.
This will work fine with the ESP32. You will have to be careful with the power though. I'm assuming you're using a dev board with a 3.3v regulator on it. Give 5V to the ESP board Vin, and use the 3V3 pin go to the resistor divider. The LEDs will need 5V to power them. The data out pins from the ESP32 will be 3.3V logic level, but in my experience WS2812B LEDs work fine with 3.3V on the data pin even though they are specified to use 5V (see my LED matrix video to see that this works).
@@ScottMarley yes, i want to use one board with 3.3v regulator. Driving Led part i do not think will be a problem. I will use level shifter if i will have to, only problem i see will be at analog signal level input from microphone. Esp can read 3.3 v max. Your arduino 5 v. So, i guess, if analog signal level is higher than 3.3 v will not work as i expected. Any idea how high will be analog output voltage level after voltage dividers? Exceed 3.3 v?
I think i got it, so in your schematics, R1 and R3 should be at 3.3 v for esp32.
@@petrepetercristi are you using a preamplified microphone? Like this one www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electret-Microphone-Amplifier-MAX4466-with-Adjustable-Gain/273149609781?hash=item3f98fc4735:g:JDMAAOSwxfdaywKx if so, just power the microphone with 3.3V then you won't exceed the analog input voltage of the esp
@@petrepetercristi yes, that is correct, R1 and R3 should be at 3.3v
Hi. I tried to compile the code it is showing error. Not compiled
Hi, I'm afraid that's not helpful enough for me to diagnose. What is the error, what board are you using, have you made any changes to the code etc?
@@ScottMarley I m using Arduino nano
@@ScottMarley I didn't change any code I only follow your code
@@ronaldfernandes5697 hey Ronald, you have to answer the questions I have asked you. I'll give you one more try.
And the most important part, what is the FULL error you are getting? All of it.
hallo sir...pls share detail component list in description....thnk
The schematic with all componenets is in the GitHub link. What componenent are you struggling with?
@@ScottMarley , resistor 10kohm konekting to arduino bord A4, A5 the component gets hot(short)....thnks
@@burapat4100 are you sure you have a 10k resistor and not a 10 ohm resistor? If wired correctly, these resistors will not get warm. Check your resistor values with a multimeter and check all of your connections.
@@ScottMarley, my resistor 10k ohm 1/4 watt
@@burapat4100 then you definitely have a fault in your circuit. I can't really diagnose it much further than that without seeing what you've done I'm afraid.
Just what I wanted Scott loaded to my Mega 2560 no problem, building a couple of towers for our outside broadcasts on Hospital Radio. Thanks.
No problem, if you have the RAM available I would increase SAMPLES to 60 or so, that way you get smoother operation. I'd love to see a video once you're done!
Will do, once this virus is out of the way. Probably have it in the studio for my Soul Show to get me in the mood!
System all tested and working OK. Fitting mic's each end of main box and clipping a set of stereo headphones to isolate everything from our broadcasting equipment for electrically isolating safety reasons.Have ordered these hopefully do the job. www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MROLRJN/ref=twister_B08221VDT1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hi, I'd like to know if you made some modification in the main code. I tried on an UNO it worked fine. but no response on a MEGA2560. the code get stuck i the begining of the loop. Any advice? thanks you.
@@mehdihajsassi1499 Hi Medhi, Mine runs on a MEGA2560 did'nt need to modify code except for MAX_MILLIAMPS 1000 current draw. I have also added 3 new buttons and a tri-colour LED and modified the code to change the RGB set-up on boot up, to give different patterns. Otherwise the code is as Scott wrote it.
ITS NOT WORKING FAKE VIDEO
I don't make fake videos dude.
4:20
". . the whole of this repository . ." sounded a lot like ". . the whole of the suppository . ."
I had to rewind to check! 😄 😁