How to Restore a Gun, Part 3 ~ Arisaka 7.7 x 58 Type 99 Japanese Rifle
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- In this final Part 3 of the series, I demonstrate the process of non-destructive rust removal, and the restoration of the metal, without any rebluing or change to the original, after which the rifle is fully reassembled to full and safe working condition, requiring only two simple parts to make it functional.
This generation needs such practical, knowledgeable teaching....thanks so much for sharing with us.
"When the screw stops turning, stop turning..." I love this man.
Once again you've outdone yourself with a great straight forward tutorial. Can't thank you enough for the time you spend with these videos! As a Japanese rifle collector I can't tell you how many of these rifles seem to fall prey to careful neglect, thanks for keeping it as original as possible.
AWESOME SIR THANKS LEARNED NO ONE TEACHES WITH THIS AMOUNT OF DETAIL THANKS AGAIN SIR GOD BLESS YOU FAMILY & USA
Another great presentation. You remind me of a favorite school teacher back in the day. Thanks so much.
Great video! A few days after I watched this video. I saw a sporterized Schmidt-Rubin 1889 in an antique store I otherwise wouldn’t have purchased. Picked it up cheap. Followed this video. Gun looks great. Didn’t realize at the time it couldn’t shoot 7.5x55. Found some info online in regards to reloading trimmed down 7.5x55 to 7.5x53.5 at 30-30 or 30-40 crag pressures. Gun is in great shape mechanically. Really starting to enjoy these older pieces of history. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.(priceless info).
Beautiful restoration job. I have a few WW2 Rifles Myself. I left Mine in their original configuration. I love the way these rifles are made. God Bless
Recently I acquired a M38 Swedish Mauser. Cleaned it up just like you show here and it looks amazing.
Thanks for your wonderful channel and sharing your knowledge built up over many years in the field and trade. I've made so many changes to how I do things, and have saved so much on consumables by switching to mineral oil (paraffin oil in Australia) and also made my own Ed's Red.
God bless you and thanks again!
Andrew Leembruggen
I appreciate that very much.
tis a beautiful thing to watch a labor of love such as this, thanks so much for sharing your passion and love for all things gun related with the rest of the world.
Just found. Thank you!! Inherited a sporterized similar rifle, bored to 300 savage though
Wonderful video! Always glad to see an excellent job of restoration involving firearms and this one was excellent!
It turned out beautiful Captain. Outstanding!
Thank you!
Awesome job. Thanks for teaching us some restoration tip and tricks.
Thank you so much for this video, i was passes down an Arisaka type 99 that my great grandfather took from the pacific islands somewhere and im very excited to take it apart and restore it or atleast make it shine again. The detail in these videos was helpful I've taken apart the rifle before and i had misses some parts i didn't know could detatch. Mine even still has the barrel cleaner I'll have to see how that works somewhere else but it was very helpful thank you!
I wish I had seen this video 30 years ago when I did an bad job of repairing my fathers Remington 742. I foolishly glued in a wooden dowel and drill through it to make my repair of the buttstock. At least its still holding together and works flawlessly. Or should I say as well as it ever has. Wonderful series. Thanks.
Denis LeBlanc If it still shoots you did it correctly for its designed function, aesthetics are for collectors. As a tool using man I have a lot of ugly, repaired tools that work better than the pretty ones !
Thank you for the very useful tips on how to restore an old gun. And it didn't cost an arm and a leg!
Excellent series on the Arisaka.
Excellent job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I really like your simple common since approach to this. Looking forward to a range report.
It is gorgeous rifle. Great work!
Awesome video series on this! Our family has one of these rifles from WWII. Your knowledge and experience is so valuable as I start to work on ours. Thank you and all our military veterans and active duty for service to our country.
Another great video! Thank you so much for taking your time to share your knowledge of firearms. You are appreciated. God bless.
nice restoration project. i learned a lot. thank you!
Necromancer! You really brought that rifle back to life!
Thanks for the in depth series. I have to say though i have a very late last ditch type 99 and its heat treated properly and shoots very,very well. The machining looks terrible but its built right where it counts. No way the japanese sent out rifles to their people that would explode on use. Your thinking of the training rifles. Often times they were confused with useable rifles which they were not. They would explode when a live round was fired from them. Easy to tell them apart. All that said verify all your old battle rifles for useability. Pay a gunsmith if you dont know!
awesome series of videos
Thanks so much for this series. Just picked up a rough T38 carbine and this was a godsend. Thanks for cutting through the marketing bs as well, as collectors we're vulnerable to any angle that says it will help our "babies". I'd like your opinion on using electrolysis on particularly rusty pieces. Thanks!
Watching in 2023 Very useful info I’m “desportarizing” the 99 my dad brought back I was young and wanted a deer rifle that looked like my buddies l regretted it later on and I’m trying to make it right
Thanks for series. Lots of techniques and tips in this.
Great series, learned a lot. Now I just have to find an old one to fix up myself.
Great job...Looking forward to seeing it fire...
Thank you Sir, much appreciated.
I appreciate all your videos, I always learn a lot, thanks
Great job. The gun turned out great. Thanks for sharing your gun knowledge.
Great series! Keep up the great work 😊
This was a great series and as always very instructive. Looking forward to seeing a video firing it on the range.
Hopefully, after you get the last of the lost parts, you will video when you take it out for some range time. Thanks for a great trio of videos!
Jim Allen
I located the parts and hope to do just that, soon. Thanks for watching!
i just did this to mine a year ago some one at work had given it to me thinking it was worthless it turns out to be a 42' early war chromed barrel monopod and aircraft sights! My stock was great though no repairs to wood needed just slight surface rust let it soak with repeated applications of Hoppes #9 and some 0000 ought brass wool it seems to have over 90% bluing left came-out beautiful.
You could see it not had been cleaned since WWII as I found Unburnt long grain cordite left in the action!The Bore was nice and shinny and sharp rifling. cleaned the stock with acetone and used 50/50 BLO mixed with mineral spirits came out great saw some 7.7 Norma ammo the other day I might try it out this weekend?jim
Can`wait to see you shoot it :) You are an inspiration (at least to me)
Thank you for the video sir! So frog lube is not the first company that came up with heating the metal before application! That’s great, can go back to using cheaper oil‘s. Love the video and thank you for all the information!
Blacksmiths were oiling heated metal for centuries before God invented frogs.
Thank you
Got a Type 38 on the way that will need a little TLC.
Going to be referring to this great little mini-series for its cleanup! :)
I commend you sir beautiful work.
Very good job sir. I like the way it turned out. Sorry for my premature comment.
Charlie Ford
That's quite alright. Thanks for watching.
I have a type 99 that is bright orange, bolt is completely rusted shut. I’ve always wanted to restore is since my grandfather was the one who picked it up in battle.
Wow, great job. Looks really nice. A piece of (sad) history.
very nice result, and some good info along the process
Well done! I really would have liked to have seen a video on your Savage Model 99 because that thing is a beauty!
I'm going to have to use the heated oil on my Type 38's bolt at some point. I just cleaned a huge amount of cosmoline out of it, never knew anyone did that to Japanese firearms, and my bolt in particular is looking dry even after an oiling. I'll try it with my Berthier and Mosin as well.
Great job - great video !
Nice work. Looking at the markings that I see, it looks to be a very late 1944 made rifle.
Ken McD
That's about what I believe, an early transition rifle with lower grade segmented stock, but still with the strong action. Thanks for the confirmation, and for your input.
Just finished all three parts and was hanging on every word! I can't thank you enough for what i've learned in the last few days watching this one and a few others. I'm treating this channel like an online course and plan on watching everything i can. One question about this..... Did you do anything else to the stock after cleaning with mineral spirits? Would you leave it alone or rub with BLO? I am about to finally clean the cosmoline off of my 1903 and i'm trying to figure out the best way to go about it since i want to maintain the history of the rifle. I don't want to sand it or anything like that. I'm guessing mineral spirits will get the cosmoline and grime off and then i would just oil it. Thanks!
Wooden parts can be easily renewed by new one. Isn't it not so easy? But still a good job, thanks a lot.
GREAT VIDEO !!!
I really wanted to say thank you for posting this. It is easily the best piece I have ever seen on practical firearms restoration. I love picking up a ratty looking surplus rifle at an auction and bringing it back to life. I just finished up a quick job on an older Czech VZ-24 Mauser. It shoots well, and looks good but I'm going to have to pull it apart again and try your heated metal mineral-oil dip. I'll bet that really brings it together.
Please post some tips on stock finish. The VZ-24 had about half a dozen coats of what looked like floor wax.(thankfully it hadn't been polyurethaned). I give it a couple light cleanings with Dawn and a plastic scrubby, and it looks better without the wax but still sort of flat and dry now. I am thinking of a light coat of castor oil. Any thoughts?
I know you probably know this but if you use those copper sink cleaners for a couple dollars they're perfect for removing rust and not hurting the bluing
Love the video. The CLP data sheet says it is made of polyalphaolefin oil, rust inhibitors, dibasic ester #1, petrolium distillates. How does CLP clean if it doesn't contain a solvent like mineral spirits? Wouldn't that make your mixture superior? Is there any merit to using synthetic oils? I really appreciate you being so patient and helpful with newbies like myself. Thank you for all that you do.
grog3514
I am not a chemist, but I do know that the end result of many such compounds are very frequently nearly identical, whereby, broken down, they contain either the same ingredients, or ingredients that are virtually the same but with different names. Manufacturers are required to list chemicals by their classification, but may use broad generic terms. Names such as petrolium distilates are such generic terms. Any ingredient with the word poly means literally, many. CLP can indeed contain, or even be entirely Stoddard solvent and mineral oil, as Stoddard solvent has been made with a fairly loose variety of accepted formulations since its invention, and even mineral oil is engineered for different viscocities. In short, makers do not wish to reveal trade secrets, and they are not required to; only that they state classifications of substances, such as olefins, acids, and such. The data sheets are not, in other words, recipes, and can leave a fellow chemist just as curious as to the actual ingredients used by the company next door.
Hello, I apologize if this was covered in the video, but how do you remove the excess glue without damaging the finish on the stock?
TheCheesyBanana
This glue is easily peeled off varnished surfaces with a dull knife.
The only thing to improve what you did here would be to convert the rust Like Mark Novak does. Other than that AA1+ job.
the "last ditch" arisakas are perfectly safe to shoot (provided they arent damaged or falling apart, which would make any gun unsafe). no matter how desperate, no one would use a weapon that would be more likely to kill the user than the target. if that were the case they would have just issued clubs and spears (which they kinda did). no the myth of the suicidal exploding arisaka comes from people trying to use live ammo in training rifles, that were made to shoot blanks to teach the use of the rifle, not to fight with. they didnt have rifling, locking lugs and were make of soft material, not proper steel. those are 100% unsafe to shoot with real ammo. luckily theyre very easy to distinguish. just look down the bore, if it has no rifling, its not a "real" arisaka and is not safe to shoot
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but I'm always still learning. What kind of torch were you using? I couldn't hear because the torch was too loud. It looked different than a regular propane torch because of the two tubes, so I didn't know if it was a mixture of gases, or just propane and oxygen. Or is that second tube just the igniter? Fantastic series btw, I love all your videos, they're just so straight forward and cut through a lot of bull! Thanks for all you do!
It's not a dumb question. The torch is simply a propane torch with a self contained igniter, which is the lower tube. For what I was doing, only mild heat is required.
@@GunBlue490 awesome, and thanks for the quick response. I've been working on guns for years, and I still learn stuff from all your videos. Since I've become disabled after a car accident I've really been thinking about going into gunsmithing as a career because it's something I can still do with my disability. I think another reason I really love your videos is because you remind me of my dad. He was one of the smartest people I ever knew, a mechanical engineer/machine designer w/many patents. You both just tell it like it is, no BS. I just today found a local gunsmith looking for an apprentice, so with all my experience in wood & metalworking, mechanics, restoration, engineering, drafting/autoCAD, machining, and repairing & building firearms it'll be a job I would really enjoy. Watching your videos has been an extra wealth of knowledge, so thanks again for doing what you do, and please keep it up! God bless you and Benny! (I hope he's still around, if not I'm truly sorry!)
Very nice refurbishment and video work! FYI: The artist tool is called a palette knife.What was your method for making the wood look good, without removing the patina?
Mike McIlhenny
I knew the tool's name, but my old brain came up with missing parts, as is often the case lately. Mineral spirits will clean wood finishes nicely and safely. My grandmother's old furniture formula was 50/50 turpentine and raw linseed oil. Don't use boiled linseed oil, which hardens, and is sold for an utterly fantastic profit in tiny little bottles and jars in gun stores as so-called stock finishes, which is simple old boiled linseed oil.
Great job GunBlue, going to tear down my 1911, serial # shows that it was manafactured in 1913, cant wait to see it improved from its current condition, will take before and after pic's. what are your thoughts on parkerizing ?
Nice job, did you ever get it to fire? I started watching gun restoration videos because I'm about to start a restoration on an 1862 Bridesburg rifled musket that had been sporterized at some point. Some four or more inches were cut off the barrel and the wood cut back to the first barrel ring and the stock stripped. The butt plate was missing and the recess in the top of the butt was shaved off. I plan on restoring missing parts and fitting some new parts of both the wood stock and the metal. I came accross a two band Springfield in a museum that was listed as "a seargents musket" which is what I'm using as a model for this resto/mod because it's about the same lenth and solves a few problems configuring the weapon. The weapon is already so ireversably altered from it's original state that there's nothing I can do to it to devalue it further. In fact the gun was given to me by a friend who was just going to have it disposed of. Should be fun.
Have fun with your project. Yes, the rifle shoots great.
Thanks so much for detailed instructions. Enjoyed every minute.
Ever consider a toaster oven for heating small parts?
Circular File
It's a very, very, seldom done process that warrants nothing more than the inexpensive torch that does a very nice job for me. If I were doing this frequently, I would consider one, but they take up real estate, too.
I wonder if those notches were actually done by a Japanese soldier... the reason I say this is due to the fact that soldiers were not allowed to modify or change any imperial equipment being it was all the property of the emperor. A common myth is that Japanese soldiers would remove the dust covers and mono-pods, this would actually result in severe punishment and was most likely done by servicemen who took them off and either didnt know how to put them back or didnt care to. This type of standard practice is why I question the notches.
No, those notches were actually on the rifle when it was taken from the Japanese soldier's body. It's what they are. Rules are broken by people all the time.
@@GunBlue490 I was just stating that an IJA soldier would be punished severely if he modified or defaced any equipment with the imperial chrysanthemum on it being it was marked as the emperors property. The Japanese were not known to deviate from these traditions whatsoever, so I always question when I see "field modified" Japanese equipment.
Gunblue490, you are a wealth of info sir, thank you. I have acquired a type 99 rifle chambered in 7.7 do you have any info about these? This gun is in nice shape, but unfortunately someone sporterised the barrel. Thank you for any info you may have.
One might keep in mind that the Japanese used poison oak or ivy in their shellacs causing some people to break out when sanding the stocks
Known as Urishi oil. Hirohito may get the last laugh after all.
What was the procedure of cleaning the stock, and bringing the wood back to life? Where any chemicals used?
I simply soaked it in acetone, outdoors of course. I followed that with boiled linseed oil, as per military rifles of that era.
In the other videos wasn't the bolt handle a barrel configuration now it's a plumb configuration? Different bolts?
It's the exact same bolt.
Hey GunBlue, huge fan of your videos. I was wondering, have you/could do a video on your thoughts on straight-walled cartridges for hunting? I know that many states in the Midwest allow a rifle season for deer but only for straight-walled cartridges (I think some New England states do this also). The topic has a lot to it especially since there's some very different cartridges grouped together in the category. I've been pondering the merits or .357, .44, 45-70, and especially the .450 Bushmaster, the new(er) kid on the block. Ruger has the American and Gunsite Scout in the .450 Bushmaster now.
D L
I will put that suggestion on my list. Thank you. The Bushmaster is a fine, powerful round for such conditions. The 357 is a bit light for deer, the 44 Magnum well proven for short ranges under 65 or so yards, the 45-70 is ample for any hunting for those who are able to handle its hefty recoil (I recommend lighter bullets which are not so lusty for deer). The 444 Marlin is a gem, too, and perhaps better suited for deer than the 45-70. Any of the old black powder cowboy rounds of greater than 35 caliber are quite suitable for intermediate ranges. All cartridges are nothing more than a propellant load behind a bullet, so it's easy to open a ballistic chart and start comparing. Don't be lurred by cartridge names and popularity, which are of no concern. Just be guided by trajectories and effective working energy comparisons down range, within expected striking distances.
Thank you for the response and suggestions, keep up the good work!
Would love to see it shot on video. This has given me inspiration to do my 7.7 type 99 with the mum still fully attached. It has a very dark rough bore do you have any suggestions on how to clean and smooth it???
dowdawg
You can only clean it thoroughly. I suggest using Hoppe's #9 or mineral spirits, following my video on how to clean a rifle professionally, until no more dirt or rust comes out. Don't be surprised if it takes lots of solvent, patches and scrubbing, with a close fitting brush, and lots of elbow grease. Be sure to use a high quality plastic coated steel rod, and never use an aluminum rod, which will damage the bore (those should be illegal!). Use an 8mm bore brush and jag, as it's considerably bigger than a 30 caliber. It's acceptable to cork the bore and fill it with solvent, allowing it to soak a few hours at a time, followed by cleaning. Whatever roughness remains after cleaning is pitting that you can do nothing about, and any efforts to smooth it will further degrade the remaining steel. After it's clean, give the bore a single patch lightly wetted with regular clear mineral oil to protect it. I do hope to shoot it soon.
Thank you for the advice!!!
Nice set of videos, sir! Are you considering duplicating your channel on another platform, in case TH-cam pulls all the firearm related videos?
Chris Cox
I will consider it if I come to that bridge. Thanks for your support!
Could these cracks come apart again under firing?
ShoulderRollJason
No. Longitudinal repairs along the grain are stronger than the original wood. Many laboratory tests have been done over the years that have proved that beyond question. As for the cross grain breaks, I assessed those in the video, and there is no risk involved.
Could I heat parts in an oven at low temp (180-200f) rather than torching?
Cory Calogero yes
Might I ask how you removed that dowel and epoxy from the barrel? I have the same case with my Airisaka?
Brass rod and dead blow hammer, more than likely
do you need bolt parts for this to make it a shooter ? I have them
I have a very old FIE single shot 20 gauge that needs to be reblued. It is very rusty. Bagged my first rabbit with it 47 years ago. Any suggestions? Thanks.
If you desire it to be reblued, there is nothing you need to do, except give it to a competent gunsmith who is experienced in the practice of rebluing. He will remove all rust, polish and refinish the steel to a luster, then hot blue it. Any serious, deep pitting or scratches will remain, but will be beautifully blued. Cold home bluing techniques are very superficial, and are not worth the effort.
@@GunBlue490
Thanks. I haven't had time to hunt in a long time. So , a lot of my firearms are in disrepair due to my neglect. I want to pass these on to the kids one day. Slowly getting them into shape.
how long did the glue need to completely dry?
Carpenters glues generally cure after 24 hours in room temperatures.
16:22 Late issued Arisaka’s can’t be safely what?? I can’t hear you over the blow torch.
I think he was talking about the "Last Ditch" Arisaka's and he said they were not safe to use because they were not heat treated. But those unsafe Arisakas were trainer rifles. There was no rifling in the barrel.
You could have done this in one third the time, but you repeated things over and over. I can not hear what you are saying over the sound of your propane torch.
I think you did a good job in repairing the damage to the wood. However, your process on the metal leaves a lot to have a conversation about. Why didn't you repair the dovetail lower part of the stock?
Why didn't you show us what you did as far as removing the dowels. As far as I can tell, you have not RESTORED this, because it apparently does not have a firing pin and cocking piece.
i understand what you are doing and respect that but why just heat the metal and oil it honestly that does nothing and yes i to have some say experience in refinishing .you could have simply boiled all the metal in distilled water and rubbed it down with0000 steel wool and called it a day or continued to rust blue it and you can make your own rust blue very easy after that soak it down in boiled linseed let it stand over night and wipe it down and call it quits but that being said the gun does look ok
nice restoration project. i learned a lot. thank you!