Stud Walls Made Easy. Framing Trade Tricks ~ Orangery 6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Makita DHS661ZU 18V Li-Ion LXT Brushless 165mm Circular Saw
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Festool sliding compound mitre saw KAPEX KS 120 REB 230V
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Roger and Dan assemble a stud pre-wall in the latest episode of The Orangery.
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#StudWork #DanCox #TradeTricks
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Like Dan's way of working fixing all the 120mm studs first, then fixing the rest after. Always used to use this method especially on long walls so that the plasterboard fitted.👍👍👍
Thanks Kevin. 🙌🏻
Assuming the plasterboards ARE 1200. Remember studding a wall once 35metres long, 600 centres, perfect. Boards show up 1197mm. 3mm that long across adds up to 100mm at the end
I've got a variation on fitting the noggins - instead of a batten I use a block of the stud timber and trigger clamp - clamp the block to the stud, position the noggin - nail it in (with prepared nails or a gun) - remove clamp. No need for different lengths of batten
yeah I do that too
I’ve been using the clamped block trick to avoid “wasting” batten offcuts. But then I have to measure on each stud, get the block level. All told a real false economy even with a story stick. Thanks for exposing common sense. (And great sound. )
About time you started detailing how compliance with the Building Regulations is achieved!!
I could have done with Dans noggin trick last year, excellent 👍
Usually just left hand a sledge to backup a whackin, but that works too.
Great minds think alike Dan; I give the same tip (batten supporting the noggin whilst nailing) to my carpenter students at college.
Excellent as always and a great tip from Dan👌👍
I find your videos very therapeutic!!
6:00, Great tip. Never saw that. Wish I had. Damn, I'm stupid.
Great video guys, and its clear that you have a good energy when you are all working together, which, as far as I'm concerned, gives the videos an extra dimension🤗That Hilti must be good for Dan to like it, as I know how much he adores his Makita🤣Cheers fellas
Me and my makita Del…
Thanks for watching. 👊🏻
Think I’ve seen the noggin stick before recently.. 😂
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. You don't even need to bring one out Dan, just sell the plans to people so they can make their own😜
@@thetallcarpenter now that’s a good idea ..💡we can go in 50-50..
😆
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. DEAL👊
Nice one Dan. Always good to hear opinions on a bit of kit
Brilliant job, need longer vids please 👍🏼
The Tall Carpenter does the same thing to get the height of the noggings
Sometimes when making a framed wall we need to use our noggin….
Yoy also need to keep a level head
Yep, sometimes we can't see the wood for the trees.
Brilliant 🥳🥳🥳
Copyright infringement on the noggin stick tall carpenter has the TH-cam rights on that 1 ! Great video Dan is the man 👍🏻
I’m going into partnership with TC.
Thanks for watching 👊🏻
Can you copyright a stick?
@@richardcapey-wade8191 oh yes. We can copy right anything.. 😬
Saw that little trick with the noggin staff on the Tall Carpenters channel fist chaps 🤔
Hi Mark, yes you did! However this was filmed last year! I did comment on TC’s channel at the time.
Thanks for watching it, again 🙌
Love them noggin tips very good
Everyone has their own methods but I always build my stud walls on the floor, it’s way quicker, stronger, it’s also much easier to level a frame than individual studs, no laser needed.
Measure the lowest point on the floor/ceiling and make the frame to that, wedge any sections that don’t touch once in place.
I agree and suggested it to Dan but he likes to put them up as he goes. Both methods have their merits.
Same here if the space allows it. Except I measure from the highest point on the floor not the lowest.
Else you'll have one tight frame 😆
Kevin Moore I probably didn’t explain myself well, you’re looking for the smallest measurement between the floor and ceiling.
MAMS I knew what you meant friend. I was just being facetious 🤓
Simple but brilliant tip.
very informative thanks .And good tricks
Love the channel and certainly the videos with Dan he is legit. I wonder though is all the lumber over there treated?
I purchased a senco sgt90i nail gun at the beginning of the year, it looks very similar to the hilti from looking at the video. Be interesting to see them side by side as the senco can be had for around £290 when on offer
That tip with the piece of timber holding the noggins in place I've done that from my very early days in carpentry, must of been shown that by one of the other carpenters I worked with
Great work can’t wait to see the end result. Tom from Matrix resin
Dan is such a legend I'd say a gentleman to work with.
Rodger do you mind me asking are you still working full time or is skill builder your job now
Thank Fergal
I know we all have different methods but I would of(space allowed) made it down on the deck then put it in position with allowing for spacers and packers and it makes the dwangs(noggings) easier to put in position plus it’s a more stronger frame,and more important it’s quicker😉😉😉
Nice job Dan, that hilti looks a nice weight too. Let’s hope it’s more reliable than the Paslode.
Thanks Mark. That’s not hard to be more reliable…
I second on both points
Dan the man back on the job with his no nonsense get on with it approach 👌🏼. A mutual pal of ours likes his Hilti gear 😍🧱👍🏽
😉🙌🏻
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. 😁🤜🏽🤛🏽🧱👍🏽
you gotta love a bit of site talk
I wonder if Hilti will do a product placement video on different lengths of timber to help with noggins?
I ping a line through for noggins and stagger them top an bottom of the line so I can screw through the upright into noggin
Yeah I thought that was standard
I never stagger nogs. Makes it too hard to find them later if you need fixing for anything. And there is no need for it.
@@kiwigrunt330 we prefer the fixing to go in straight and never nail studwork, also noggin usually at 1200 and not much hangs at that height
Not knocking what you’ve done roger, by in my view you’ve added a vapour barrier to the back of the studs so warm air will now condensate on the inside face of that dpm, causing problems later on. Still watching the video at the point of writing this so fingers crossed you add another to the face of the studs before you plasterboard to stop the warm moist air travelling though..
You beat me to it.
@@kiwigrunt330 Me too. We use a breathable membrane now to protect the studwork. You can't have too much thickness of insulation on the inside of situations like this. It's better on the outside, but most often difficult to achieve.
Assuming there will be insulation and barrier on internal side as well
Great video Guys, thanks !!!!
Joins in gibboard are less likely to crack if gib is fixed horizontally, and NOT over nogs.
The tall carpenter does the noggins that way. Ur too late boys lol
I always ping a line 1245 to the top of my noggins. That way the electrician can put his switch boxes in so the top is at 1200.
They are low switches.
@@SBIGDTSM 'new' regs, been a while now tho'. All to comply with access regs.
handycrowd I know mate, still ridiculously low.
@@SBIGDTSM Yeah, it does look stooopid when combined with the power points at 600mm off the floor.
Sometimes wonder if they'll end up all at the same height one day lol!
Gypline the wall. It doesn't rot, easy to install and cheaper than wood. Also, it's much quicker
I’ve seen rusted gypliner and stud. It the right thing if your DPMing the back wall as you’ll penetrate the waterproof sheeting
The price you builders are changing at the moment they are almost throwaway 🤪
We may be expensive, but at least we are slow and rough.
Every building video now has goggles and ear defenders as mandatory. I totally agree that safety is paramount but we go seem to go over the top. Poor old Roger’s ears.
I think the poly could be a mistake based on some recent Build Show building science. I know it's a big mistake between the rock and studs, as it makes the walls sweat and mold grow. The amount of vapor water is more trivial leeching out in zones 4 through 9. A Vapor permeable Air barrier is key, which you can get from the outside with a coating.
You are right but putting a permeable membrane on the wall leaves a dew point behind the membrane. The vapour is on the warm side of the poly and will evaporate. I am undecided about this wall/ We may cut the poly and staple it to the sides of the studs.
When you say it's a big mistake to put a barrier between the "rock & the studs" I'm guessing thats American for don't put a barrier between the plasterboards & studs? In the UK that is exactly where we do put it (on the warm side) due to the warm indoor air wanting to move outdoors to the cold. There are VERY few homes with aircon over here due to our lovely weather!
I was just thinking the same things and about to ask what that was going up behind.
Roger maybe you could figure this damp question out, we live in and old bungalow, from what i was told the house was knocked down rebuilt with a grant, 30 years ago, they for whatever reason left one gable end wall standing at the end, that wall lets in a lot of damp no insulation in the wall ( which i think is single skin) and the room is freezing its the big bedroom, damp travels from there half way across the house so it comes across half the building, do you think nocking up a stud wall with insulation would help cure the damp or have we got bigger problems??? My uncle reckons it needs to he propped up half way across the house and one full end rebuilt walls including the gable.. I know you wouldnt be able to tell without being here but whats your thoughts when you read this
It would help to see some pictures. My immediate thought is that external wall insulation is the best bet. If not that then a rain screen on the outside
Curious to know why be hammered nails in and not screws when showing manual noggin work
Perfect
Regards
Faruk
6:10 Used his noggin there
What is that small tool belt pouch Dan has?
Hi Marco, it’s a occidental one.
I bought it from TF tools but it’s also on Amazon.
@@Ultimate-roofing-square. 👍 Occidental Leather tool belts are superb, 👍 😁🔨 🇮🇪
@@TheToolnut 😉🙌🏻
I believe they track HILTI tools with chips, so stolen ones wont have that much resale value, couse you can't get them fixed after brokedown. Atleast mostly thieves leaves them and grap those Makitas, couse theres a market for those.
Hilti keeps a records of the serial number of all the tools they sell so if they go in for service or repairs they will be re-united with the rightful owner if they are stolen. But this unfortunately makes no difference to thieves as they know the value of the Hilti tools and will target it. It did not stop them nicking all my hilti tools when my van got broken into😩😩
Great video Roger but if you look at 3:25 your pal has his knee on the timber right in line with the circular saw, that is a highly risky practice and could result in a very serious injury.
Why put dpc down then drill though it, putting a hole in it rendering it useless.
One hole every 600mm is not total contact so I argue with the word 'useless'. How long would it take for moisture coming through the screw thread to rot the plate?
I'm socked we still use wood studs run parallel closely spaced for walls.
Hi, Do you not have to tape the joints of the plastic membrane?
???!
@@carforumwanker ????!!
There shouldn't be a plastic membrane vapour barrier there to begin with. Wrong side of the studs.
@@kiwigrunt330 we like to fuck up in the Uk !!
Infomercial?
No money
Don't put the fucking noggins in at 1200mm! As an electrician put switches have to go in no higher than 1200mm to the top (regulations) and having to dig out half a nogging is a right fucking pain in the arse. Also, noggins in the way you have them means if we go to add in sockets for clients down the line you've just guaranteed that we've to smash the wall to bits instead of nicely getting a cable slid down the back
We put noggins at 1200 to catch the top and bottom of plasterboard sheets. We've always (for normal ceiling height) put the noggins in at 4', or 1200. The plasterboard makers make the sheets 1200.
Why don't you just put the switches at 4'6" like you used to? If its disabled accessible, regs say max 1200mm. You know theres a noggin there, so put them in at 1150 top- this isn't rocket science, is it?
BTW, how are you going to slide a cable down the back when the wall is stuffed with kingspan?
Usually cellotex insulation is applied which comes as 1200mm width, noggins are put in to 1200mm to efficiently make the most out of a board and have minimal waste
@@milotobin-storer3943 No, sorry. Noggins are there to carry the plasterboard. Before plasterboard, they were called fire-checks, and were put between studs to prevent fire spreading inside the walls- much more of a risk with lath and plaster.
If the noggins were put at a height to minimise waste of PIR board, they would be at 1246 centres
@@rossbuchanan7632 Kingspan is able to be slid behind, as is fibreglass/rock wool. That spray crap isn't. Not sure what celotex is?
Sheets also come in 10x5s, so fit them instead of 8x4s and move you noggins to suit or move them to face side flush instead of the way they're fitted here. Yea it's 1200 max for disabled access, doesn't mean I wana put them lower, thing of all the poor tall people breaking their backs bending down too
@@darylsavage119celotex is PIR sheet, same as kingspan, different manufacturer.
The 10x5 plasterboards are twice the cost per sq/m, so it is very difficult to get the customer to spring for them.
The spark I work with does 1st fix before we insulate, and its no bother at that point to put extra noggins in for sockets etc. It just helps if we all work to the same hymn sheet, which often isn't the case.
If someone had never built a stud wall or done joinery before wanted to build a stud wall, would you suggest they rent a nail gun or do it all by hand ?
Use screws if limited on tools it can be removed easier If not in the correct location, nail guns are more time efficient nether the less
Agreed I would screw it if I was only doing 1 not huge wall and didn't have a nail gun.
Hello Roger....you sexy beast!
What the hell is going to be hung off that wall “Big Ben” why skimp on 4x2 you could have really wasted more money and used 6x2s oh and let’s use 4 nails when 3 will do.
Let’s hope for no water ingress or your going to get a soggy bottom.
Ever consider Insulation?
@@milotobin-storer3943 your point being ?
Hilti is awful I've gone through 3 hilti saws in 2 months
Roger, your top says 'professional builder' if this is the case why are you making heating and plumbing videos ? and indeed, talking about things that you clearly don't understand ! - stick to building buddy.
Jeremy
I really don't understand that 'Stick to this or that' attitude, it is so limiting. I trained as a plumber and wrote for the plumbing trade press for over 35 years as well as writing books, and training at evening classes to become a teacher. I was then asked to write for the building trade press, hence the Professional Builder shirt, because I gained a broad knowledge of the industry and that lead me to attend countless training courses. I was then approached by LBC radio and went on to have a Saturday morning radio show for 15 years. During this time I worked on Watchdog, Rogue Traders and several other television programmes. Then I moved onto videos and TH-cam.
If I had 'stuck to plumbing' I may well have died of boredom, certainly my life would have been a lot less interesting (for me) and I would have been a lot poorer. So, my well meaning friend, thank you for your advice but forgive me if I decline it.
🙄
horizontal, actually, for gypsum board...