I've watched many of your videos over the years and enjoy the candid "realness" of your demeanor. It's fun to see the smiles and joking around. Thanks for the help!
Love your tips. I did a job at a guys house and he wanted me to drill chuck holes in his wainscoting to run low voltage transformers to each outlet a and run wires to each window for powers shades. It was a million dollar house and had that factory paint job on the trim. I convinced the homeowner to hire a specialist to run low voltage wiring to each window and have everything powered at one source alleviating the need to drill holes all over the wainscoting. As much as I wanted the job I wanted the best for the customer. Some handyman services don't care.
Thank you so much Chris, I've been painting for 22 years now and I use the same process, I carry my spring loaded nail set also or just a punch and a hammer, I prefer to add a small amount of tint to spackling paste if I use it so you can see every nail hole, especially if you've got several people helping, I use Elmer's wood filler myself, it is a tan color and dries tan and is in-between Bondo and spackle hardness. I usually take my putty knife and go over the nail hole to knock down the volcano from the nail gun creating this volcano, I swipe left and right with my filler so my nail holes are over filled, when I sand I either use a finish Sander with#220 or I'll use a rubber sanding block, that way the nail holes will be completely flat, if it's high end I'll use lacquer putty for a second coat filler on my nail holes, never use lacquer putty for filling deep holes, it'll crack and shrink, it's for fine details only. I feel every nail hole as I go to be certain every one cannot be felt, always remember, you feel it you'll see it. Thank you so much for your professional tips and techniques.sincerely Lorenzo gig harbor WA.
Wish I’d seen this video before I started my home renovation. Using the sponge is a huge help. I actually took it a step further. Started using a wet rag to wipe the caulk on, then used the sponge to smooth out the caulk line and remove the excess caulk. The sponge is soft and conforms just enough to pull away the excess without taking out too much caulk.
I cut the tip off the index finger of my latex gloves and roll it back. It keeps my hands clean while getting a precision caulk line. It's easier to clean one or two fingers than both hands.
also in between filling holes and caulking we blow out the trim with a compressor then vaccum everything super clean then caulk it and paint after. never seen the bondo before ive used that on steel door jams for dents but never somthing like this great idea
@@Idahopainter yeah cant be havin dust in the paint when you spray lol. also i hate getting dust in the caulk it turns into little balls when your trying to lay it down with your finger its annoying lol. love your videos though man ive learned alot from them over the years.
This is really helpful. Carpenter is installing battens (that I already primed and spray painted) in my bathroom. I will be doing the caulking and painting. On a previous video, I mentioned that my must have as a DIY painter are diaper wipes. I wrap it around my finger to remove excess caulk, use it to wipe my hands, wipe drips, etc.
A few comments: All of that MDF and finger jointed pine should be primed with a sandable, non-grain raising primer first. The reason is, that as soon as you hit that filled substrate with a product that will swell it (or the wrong filler), you just made a little bump at every hole filled. In addition, priming first allows you to see every crack to caulk and hole to fill with greater vision and clarity because everything is white. After priming, then you fill and allow filler to dry. Then you go back and sand everything with 3M contour sponges. After dusting and vacuuming every surface sanded, then you go back a caulk with a clean wet cotton cloth rag and a Nitrile gloved hand (saves you from becoming a member of the bloody fingertip club and going home with funky hands if your are using any caulking worth it's salt). This process will give you a far superior end result on all your mil work.
Great insight, thank you! Couple of noob questions if you dont mind...if the ceiling and walls have finish coat on them but door frames are still unprimed wood would you spray frames still or roll with a foam roller/brush/other roller? What spackle and caulking do you recommend? Thanks
@@treystills I suppose it depends on the finished look desired. I would likely mask off the wall with some 2" Frog tape and brush out the trim work(BIN primer with a natural bristle followed by a semi-gloss latex with good flow and leveling properties) if you can live with a non-sprayed finished look. Going back to spray trim after walls & ceiling are done is completely backward from my preferred process. Caulking brand is subjective. Try a few brands and see what you like working with. They vary greatly in viscosity, tack and shrink. Polycell Polyfilla has some of my favorite fillers. I have to order them from the UK however. sorry for late reply
the key to painting well is the prep, particularly sanding. yet there is virtually nothing about sanding here in most of the painting videos on youtube. we need more of that.
Sand with paper then take a kinda worn out sanding sponge to "buff" out the sand teeth marks in the dry spackiling. Prime the spackiling area with a latex primer. Note every nail hole has a rim or lip. Knock it off with a 5in1 or scraper. I don't caulk and sand drywall mud or spackiling the same day. I want the dust gone before it sticks to wet or uncured caulk
Sand 80 to 120 to 150 for poor surfaces, and 120 to 150 for average surfaces. For clear coats sand through the grits up to 600 to achieve visual near perfection, and for physical sensation you can go to 6,000. Do not go beyond 150 on raw lumber to avoid penetration flaws (Particularly important with stain) 120 is a practical stopping point. Go no more than 2 grit variations per coat, and after 220 go in increments of about 100. As stated earlier, 600 is the point of non return visually.
I like the idea of leaving the corners filled when caulking on cabinets and door frames. I usually try to use a putty knife and it makes things go longer. Will try this on my current project. Right at that stage.
Just found your channel yesterday I just recently bought a graco sprayer.l have lerned a lot from your videos. Never new what the spray tip numbers stood for till I watched your video on the different tips.no doubt you are very professional. Love your videos. Love to see your work up close. You are really impressive but live in north Carolina but keep the videos coming. Thank you!
78835 I’d recommend filling holes prior to caulking. If you have caulked and wind up needing to set a nail it will squish out your caulk bead. Additionally the process of filling the nail holes might have you inadvertently marring your caulk job with debris or fat fingering
I usually try to get the spackling and sanding out of the way first and then caulk. That way you can sand all the area without worrying about ripping the caulking. Also when you apply the caulking is sliding into a lovely smooooooth surface baby!!
Great technique ! Doesn't everybody wish they had watched Chris and Paint Life TV's videos BEFORE they struggled with their projects...? Haha ! Thanks for the great tips !
Chris another great video! Friendly tip. Did you know, caulking when dry will shrink a certain percentage.On new trim I always double caulk. The reason why is the first bead of caulk will shrink. The second pass does the trick! Also if you paint over caulk that is not completely dry you will end up what we call beading fish eye! The paint will separate from the bead. Cheers! The gooseneck guy! Don
we in the uk call spackle filler. our primer will cover the filler without seeing it once the gloss is applied. we dont get enough time to do really nice jobs. we always brush our woodwork because our gloss is still oil based and flattens out really well.
Thank you for the video. DIY'd three exterior doors, frame and trim. Your spackle and caulk w/ sponge methods were exactly what I needed to do it well.
I like to use wood filler on nail holes in trim and wipe it clean with a damp rag. I always recheck it after it dries to make sure it didn't recess & cause a indention. 9 times out 10 I don't need to sand over the nail holes. The caulking with a sponge is a great method I use as well.
Great lesson... I thought MDF was a horrible material because it wasnt doing what I wanted... Turns out I was using it wrong lol. David Marks (Master Craftsman) spoke so highly of MDF and I had to learn the right way to use it. Now I love MDF cause i use it right. I have hated spackle for so long as a cabinet maker because it doesnt finish perfectly.... I love glazing putty but hate how much it shrinks. Turns out spackle is good for a base coat super quick of nail holes and then the glazing putty comes afterward best of both worlds.... Genius lol.
Thanks so much great video !!!! Am paining the interior of my house (it's old) and loving these tips :-) Have an airless prayer am a newbie but wow am loving it.
I'm a long time painter who works by myself and does mainly repaints. However, I just had a family member build a home and they hired me to do all the painting. It took me like 2 weeks to prep all the trim the way you did here and 4 hours total (2 per coat) to spray everything. I knew most of the work was in prep, but the scale of the job took me a bit by surprise. I got lots of compliments on how it turned out. If I'm being honest though there were a few "sandy" spots. I should have been more careful with the dust cleanup afterwards. Just saying it too is an important step that seems to be glossed over, not just in this video but others I've watched too.
I like the wet sponge idea. I have always used a wet terry towel to keep my finger wet and clean which is basically the same premise. I'll give the sponge a try next time. Maybe it will be cleaner.
I carry around a five gal pail with some water in the bottom to clean my hands the sponge and to rest my caulking gun on the inside so it dosnt drip, it works great .
A 2 gallon bucket with water in it with a couple of rags near by is also helpful change the rag as it gets loaded up especially for baseboards n stuff, might want to use something to put your spackle on so it doesn't dry out with the lid off all the time you are spackling A good painter always primes his own stuff after prep
Cut a minimal size hole abut an 1/8th of inch, wrap the tip with a piece of duct tape to prevent wear, and to tool and apply in one motion wrap a WET rag around your finger and drag along the bead directly on the tip. For exteriors apply the caulk, THEN tool with a WET brush.
Chris, awesome videos! I agree a spray finish gives the best appearance on trim. Do you have any videos or advice on brushing and type of paint when spraying is not applicable? Thanks again!
Chris, Great tips. Wow, I've never seen spread caulk that fast. Can you show how to handle dry wall nail pops? I have an old house that has reoccurring nail pops. I hit the nail pop in and then put a dry wall screw in but, sometimes they return. Any suggestions?
Chris, you've taught this DIY lady so much. I'd hire you if you lived in Northern Idaho. Darn. So I am painting my primed and pre installed baseboards. I'm using M-1 so I don't have brush strokes. Unfortunately, I still have brush strokes. Before applying a second coat, should I sand with 220 or sand with steel wool or not sand at all? I'm not happy with the first coat showing brush strokes. These are 16 ft baseboards, prior to installer cutting. I just want to finish these up and be satisfied with my job. Help pls. Thx.
In other videos on painting the trim first, you paint the trim, tape it off, then caulk up to the mask and cut in for the walls. Am i to understand from this video you fill, sand, and caulk the trim before you spray, then proceed to caulk again in the above described step for the wall cut in? Thanks. Love the vids. Great advice
Traditionally Crawford putty. Spackle is like using a type of wall mud with the powdery texture to it. Have you ever wiped down a drywall patch with a sponge? It cleans it up, so can you imagine sackling nail holes and then caulking jams after with a sponge to wipe off excess off. Maybe all the sparkle will be wiped off by the end of caulking process.
Here is something that works for me. I put water in a 5 gallon bucket so when I am between using the caulking gun or have to let it sit for a while I hang it up in the bucket. The caulk won't dry out under water and your ready to go when you need it again. No need to mess with putting on caps, a screw in the end or tape it closed as I have seen some others do.
Just wondering if you have outdoor tips for spackling and caulking around door and windows before painting? Or is it the same process as indoors? Appreciate your videos!
Love your videos....I have a couple questions. I have some bare wood that I’ve put on the wall for a board and batten entry way. I spackled all my nail holes. Should I spray on the primer first and then Caulk? Or caulk first then prime? I have an airless sprayer. Also, do I fill the seams where the boards meet with caulk or spackle? Where the boards meet the wall most of the seams appear to be really tight, do I still need to caulk all of them even if they appear to be tight? thanks
Any other sprayer you'd suggest or that you use sometimes when you only need to spray one door and trim rather than setting up and having to clean an airless sprayer up taking more time for setup and cleanup than it does to spray? I currently use a Titan 440. Btw...so many people don't realize proper prep work is absolutely key and just want to learn how to paint. I say prep is a good 70-80% of the job. Thanks and good to see some of your tips making it easier for some things I've been doing it the hard way and other videos just confirming what I've learned on my own that someone else is doing it that way too and probably the best way and is the way I've taught other people how too (like cutting in and trusting the brush edge). I recently made an in-house video cutting in on a 40deg wall-ceiling edge and maintaining a straight line. Mark @ Minton Property Management and Services Company
I heard pro and cons of caulking, spackling yes. if you caulk both sides of door trim, how do you then paint the wall a different color, painters tape or do you make the bead of caulk so small you don't worry about the concave of the caulk?
I have a lot of wainscot I did with primed finger-joint Pine. Sanded, spackled and caulked. Want to prime and sand again prior to spraying. What's the best way to remove sanded residue from trim? Thanks, Bill.
I like your logic and teaching style, can I use the bondo glazing and sanding without any shrink free spackling? I just upgraded my door trims and I want to fill in the nail holes
Top skills as always, give calkin a go with no angle cut ,work with the line of the gun its a lot faster when you adapt to it ,it saves looking for the angle on the gun all the time budy
Wood filler can potentially be a nightmare to sand and has a rather gritty or lumpy finish. Spackling is the exact opposite,very smooth and easy to sand. The problem with spackling ( even shrink free) is the shrinkage. Some people mix a (small) bit of water based lightweight woodfiller into their spackling mix. to prevent shrinkage and therefore save time and make more money. Stay safe bro!! Just a tip. Works for me.
Hi Chris, quick question. GC here... How would you prep and prime a cut end piece of mdf where the "grain" was exposed? What is your favorite mdf primer coat for a latex top coat?
wet mutton /cheese cloth is awesome for gapping Chris I gap everything lol prep prep prep I find undercoat or pigmented sealer first shows up all gaps that's just me though love ur videos
Hi Chris I have a question for ya. Whats your opinion on masonite doors ? Do you like painting masonite doors ? So I'm not a big fan on masonite doors. I don't like that on humid days sometimes the paint likes to run because the paint doesn't adhere like it does on wood. I do like the way it looks when sprayed though. Here in Massachusetts the carpentry contractors love using masonite doors instead of wood doors. I would rather paint wood doors rather than masonite doors. Just want to get another painter's opinion on painting masonite, especially from a different state. Thank you and happy painting.
I've watched many of your videos over the years and enjoy the candid "realness" of your demeanor. It's fun to see the smiles and joking around. Thanks for the help!
Love your tips. I did a job at a guys house and he wanted me to drill chuck holes in his wainscoting to run low voltage transformers to each outlet a and run wires to each window for powers shades. It was a million dollar house and had that factory paint job on the trim. I convinced the homeowner to hire a specialist to run low voltage wiring to each window and have everything powered at one source alleviating the need to drill holes all over the wainscoting. As much as I wanted the job I wanted the best for the customer. Some handyman services don't care.
Thank you so much Chris, I've been painting for 22 years now and I use the same process, I carry my spring loaded nail set also or just a punch and a hammer, I prefer to add a small amount of tint to spackling paste if I use it so you can see every nail hole, especially if you've got several people helping, I use Elmer's wood filler myself, it is a tan color and dries tan and is in-between Bondo and spackle hardness. I usually take my putty knife and go over the nail hole to knock down the volcano from the nail gun creating this volcano, I swipe left and right with my filler so my nail holes are over filled, when I sand I either use a finish Sander with#220 or I'll use a rubber sanding block, that way the nail holes will be completely flat, if it's high end I'll use lacquer putty for a second coat filler on my nail holes, never use lacquer putty for filling deep holes, it'll crack and shrink, it's for fine details only. I feel every nail hole as I go to be certain every one cannot be felt, always remember, you feel it you'll see it. Thank you so much for your professional tips and techniques.sincerely Lorenzo gig harbor WA.
thanks for your support
Your video answered my questions and demonstrated perfectly: HOW to caulk interior wood trim and WHERE to caulk trim. Thank you!
She brought you caulk and sanding block - so cute :)! Thank you Sir.
Great tips. I always enjoy watching someone that is very good at what they do, and takes pride in their work.
just spent 6 weeks redecorating.i wish i'd found this 20 years ago!!! have been watching quite a few of your tutorials. really helpful. thanks :-)
I love your videos. They are good because you are the one doing them. You are very good at teaching.
Thanks brother , you taught me to enjoy the work instead of just bustin ass to complete all the projects ... Thanks again bro ...
Enjoy your videos. Worked with a sign painter in Baltimore I was15 years old in 1963. I only paint new work that I do. Learning new tips from you.
Thank you for watching & supporting!
Wish I’d seen this video before I started my home renovation. Using the sponge is a huge help. I actually took it a step further. Started using a wet rag to wipe the caulk on, then used the sponge to smooth out the caulk line and remove the excess caulk. The sponge is soft and conforms just enough to pull away the excess without taking out too much caulk.
My dad and I did it your way back in the late 1970s. Works very good.
What kind of sponge did you use? I've always got better results using finger then wet rag. I've made such huge messes trying to use sponges
I started my own paint in business because of you guys help. Thank u
Good luck with your business, and thank you for watching & supporting!
I cut the tip off the index finger of my latex gloves and roll it back. It keeps my hands clean while getting a precision caulk line. It's easier to clean one or two fingers than both hands.
What the reason for caulking?
I have to tell you...your frog tape and clear caulk method for no bleed lines is GREAT!!!! TYVM!
Thanks Chris. Appreciate your videos. Love my new Door Stackers too.
Glad you like them!
also in between filling holes and caulking we blow out the trim with a compressor then vaccum everything super clean then caulk it and paint after. never seen the bondo before ive used that on steel door jams for dents but never somthing like this great idea
Great tip!
@@Idahopainter yeah cant be havin dust in the paint when you spray lol. also i hate getting dust in the caulk it turns into little balls when your trying to lay it down with your finger its annoying lol. love your videos though man ive learned alot from them over the years.
This is really helpful. Carpenter is installing battens (that I already primed and spray painted) in my bathroom. I will be doing the caulking and painting. On a previous video, I mentioned that my must have as a DIY painter are diaper wipes. I wrap it around my finger to remove excess caulk, use it to wipe my hands, wipe drips, etc.
A few comments: All of that MDF and finger jointed pine should be primed with a sandable, non-grain raising primer first. The reason is, that as soon as you hit that filled substrate with a product that will swell it (or the wrong filler), you just made a little bump at every hole filled. In addition, priming first allows you to see every crack to caulk and hole to fill with greater vision and clarity because everything is white. After priming, then you fill and allow filler to dry. Then you go back and sand everything with 3M contour sponges. After dusting and vacuuming every surface sanded, then you go back a caulk with a clean wet cotton cloth rag and a Nitrile gloved hand (saves you from becoming a member of the bloody fingertip club and going home with funky hands if your are using any caulking worth it's salt). This process will give you a far superior end result on all your mil work.
Thanks for sharing Brad!
Lol bloody fingertip club
Great insight, thank you! Couple of noob questions if you dont mind...if the ceiling and walls have finish coat on them but door frames are still unprimed wood would you spray frames still or roll with a foam roller/brush/other roller? What spackle and caulking do you recommend? Thanks
@@treystills I suppose it depends on the finished look desired. I would likely mask off the wall with some 2" Frog tape and brush out the trim work(BIN primer with a natural bristle followed by a semi-gloss latex with good flow and leveling properties) if you can live with a non-sprayed finished look. Going back to spray trim after walls & ceiling are done is completely backward from my preferred process. Caulking brand is subjective. Try a few brands and see what you like working with. They vary greatly in viscosity, tack and shrink. Polycell Polyfilla has some of my favorite fillers. I have to order them from the UK however.
sorry for late reply
the key to painting well is the prep, particularly sanding. yet there is virtually nothing about sanding here in most of the painting videos on youtube. we need more of that.
Sand with paper then take a kinda worn out sanding sponge to "buff" out the sand teeth marks in the dry spackiling. Prime the spackiling area with a latex primer. Note every nail hole has a rim or lip. Knock it off with a 5in1 or scraper. I don't caulk and sand drywall mud or spackiling the same day. I want the dust gone before it sticks to wet or uncured caulk
Sand 80 to 120 to 150 for poor surfaces, and 120 to 150 for average surfaces. For clear coats sand through the grits up to 600 to achieve visual near perfection, and for physical sensation you can go to 6,000. Do not go beyond 150 on raw lumber to avoid penetration flaws (Particularly important with stain) 120 is a practical stopping point. Go no more than 2 grit variations per coat, and after 220 go in increments of about 100. As stated earlier, 600 is the point of non return visually.
@@c.b.-11 what's the reason for caulking?
Thank you for the time you took to make this video it really helped me a lot God bless you brother
I'm amazed by how fast you can lay down those caulking lines!
You’re my favorite painter
Your tips are awesome. Most I know but it’s good to hear another pro’s methods. I always learn something new... thanks
I find all your videos so helpful and the explanations couldn't be more clear 😇
Thank you
Great tutorial. Thanks Dude. I'm a cabinet maker but suck at painting
love your videos mate. It's good to see a professionally trained and experienced painter give such tips. My house is looking amazing. Thank you
He sure is a pro at what he does...great work !
I like the idea of leaving the corners filled when caulking on cabinets and door frames. I usually try to use a putty knife and it makes things go longer. Will try this on my current project. Right at that stage.
Thank you so much. I'm building a new house and I'm doing the painting myself. This is so helpful.
Just found your channel yesterday I just recently bought a graco sprayer.l have lerned a lot from your videos. Never new what the spray tip numbers stood for till I watched your video on the different tips.no doubt you are very professional. Love your videos. Love to see your work up close. You are really impressive but live in north Carolina but keep the videos coming. Thank you!
So caulk 1st then spackle holes & divoits, finally sand Prime & paint. Thanks Chris I have my state paint & decor exam next week
78835 I’d recommend filling holes prior to caulking. If you have caulked and wind up needing to set a nail it will squish out your caulk bead. Additionally the process of filling the nail holes might have you inadvertently marring your caulk job with debris or fat fingering
I usually try to get the spackling and sanding out of the way first and then caulk. That way you can sand all the area without worrying about ripping the caulking. Also when you apply the caulking is sliding into a lovely smooooooth surface baby!!
Great technique ! Doesn't everybody wish they had watched Chris and Paint Life TV's videos BEFORE they struggled with their projects...? Haha !
Thanks for the great tips !
Thanks for posting.. I am currently sanding and caulking now. 😀
yes but are you spackling? haha
@@Wicked_R ....Yes, I am...When I apply it is pink and dries white.. 😀
@toddstewart1962 haha that's shocking pal.
Chris another great video! Friendly tip. Did you know, caulking when dry will shrink a certain percentage.On new trim I always double caulk. The reason why is the first bead of caulk will shrink. The second pass does the trick! Also if you paint over caulk that is not completely dry you will end up what we call beading fish eye! The paint will separate from the bead. Cheers! The gooseneck guy! Don
Awesome, thanks for sharing!
Do you prime or caulk first new construction
we in the uk call spackle filler. our primer will cover the filler without seeing it once the gloss is applied. we dont get enough time to do really nice jobs. we always brush our woodwork because our gloss is still oil based and flattens out really well.
Excellent video. Very informative for a DIY beginner like me.
Thank you!!
Thanks man, you've really helped me a lot. Local Kuna guy here!
Awesome thank you for sharing!🤙
Thank you for the video. DIY'd three exterior doors, frame and trim. Your spackle and caulk w/ sponge methods were exactly what I needed to do it well.
I needed this help for my new home fixer upper. Thanks.
I like to use wood filler on nail holes in trim and wipe it clean with a damp rag. I always recheck it after it dries to make sure it didn't recess & cause a indention. 9 times out 10 I don't need to sand over the nail holes. The caulking with a sponge is a great method I use as well.
Thanks for sharing Jeremi!
Great lesson... I thought MDF was a horrible material because it wasnt doing what I wanted... Turns out I was using it wrong lol. David Marks (Master Craftsman) spoke so highly of MDF and I had to learn the right way to use it. Now I love MDF cause i use it right.
I have hated spackle for so long as a cabinet maker because it doesnt finish perfectly.... I love glazing putty but hate how much it shrinks. Turns out spackle is good for a base coat super quick of nail holes and then the glazing putty comes afterward best of both worlds.... Genius lol.
Thanks for watching Michael!
Thanks so much great video !!!! Am paining the interior of my house (it's old) and loving these tips :-) Have an airless prayer am a newbie but wow am loving it.
What a pleasant surprise at the end of the video.
Thanks
Your channel is great. Thank you for putting these videos together.
You are welcome, thank you for watching!
Thank you for the awesome tips!
You're so welcome!
I'm a long time painter who works by myself and does mainly repaints. However, I just had a family member build a home and they hired me to do all the painting. It took me like 2 weeks to prep all the trim the way you did here and 4 hours total (2 per coat) to spray everything. I knew most of the work was in prep, but the scale of the job took me a bit by surprise.
I got lots of compliments on how it turned out. If I'm being honest though there were a few "sandy" spots. I should have been more careful with the dust cleanup afterwards. Just saying it too is an important step that seems to be glossed over, not just in this video but others I've watched too.
Thanks for sharing Jamie
Dude. Incredible instruction
Thanks
Great tips here. Always wondered how to rid of noticeable nails after painting.
Never thought a second putty was used!
Thanks
Great job, Chris, anyway you could show closeups of work?
Thanks
Good idea, thanks for sharing Dennis!
2:30 mind blown, this whole time I've been using a hammer and nail punch.
lol right
I like the wet sponge idea. I have always used a wet terry towel to keep my finger wet and clean which is basically the same premise. I'll give the sponge a try next time. Maybe it will be cleaner.
Good job and content as always. Thumbs up to your channel! Cheers from Puerto Rico.
The best videos and tips!!
Glad you think so!
Just letting you know I appreciate your vids! You've helped me make my home look great!
Glad to help, thanks for the support Tom!
Thanks, Bruce Willis!
I carry around a five gal pail with some water in the bottom to clean my hands the sponge and to rest my caulking gun on the inside so it dosnt drip, it works great .
Awesome Videos. Love the humor too!
Thanks for watching Rick!
Thank for making this video and the other ones as well they have helped me alot on how to paint like a pro in my new house 👍🏼🤘🏼
LOVE!! Thank you for posting! I rewatch every time I have to caulk!
Glad it helps, thanks for watching!
You rock! Thanks for the great tips!
Perfectionist!
A 2 gallon bucket with water in it with a couple of rags near by is also helpful change the rag as it gets loaded up especially for baseboards n stuff, might want to use something to put your spackle on so it doesn't dry out with the lid off all the time you are spackling A good painter always primes his own stuff after prep
Good tip Lance, thanks for watching!
Cut a minimal size hole abut an 1/8th of inch, wrap the tip with a piece of duct tape to prevent wear, and to tool and apply in one motion wrap a WET rag around your finger and drag along the bead directly on the tip. For exteriors apply the caulk, THEN tool with a WET brush.
Excellent! Thanks for great tutorial.
You are welcome, thank you for watching!
If John Cena was a painter
Chris, awesome videos! I agree a spray finish gives the best appearance on trim. Do you have any videos or advice on brushing and type of paint when spraying is not applicable? Thanks again!
Thanks Chris another amazing video! So do you use the bindi product in place of the spackle? Thanks again have a blessed weekend. -P
Chris, Great tips. Wow, I've never seen spread caulk that fast. Can you show how to handle dry wall nail pops? I have an old house that has reoccurring nail pops. I hit the nail pop in and then put a dry wall screw in but, sometimes they return. Any suggestions?
Chris, you've taught this DIY lady so much. I'd hire you if you lived in Northern Idaho. Darn. So I am painting my primed and pre installed baseboards. I'm using M-1 so I don't have brush strokes. Unfortunately, I still have brush strokes. Before applying a second coat, should I sand with 220 or sand with steel wool or not sand at all? I'm not happy with the first coat showing brush strokes. These are 16 ft baseboards, prior to installer cutting. I just want to finish these up and be satisfied with my job. Help pls. Thx.
What is your favorite primer to use on bare wood prior to painting?
In other videos on painting the trim first, you paint the trim, tape it off, then caulk up to the mask and cut in for the walls. Am i to understand from this video you fill, sand, and caulk the trim before you spray, then proceed to caulk again in the above described step for the wall cut in? Thanks. Love the vids. Great advice
Only sand if needed
Dope work thank you
Appreciate that
What do you think about Crawford's Putty. I've used this and spackling and I prefer the Putty because of no sanding.
Chris Adams i agree, I feel like spackle takes longer
Traditionally Crawford putty. Spackle is like using a type of wall mud with the powdery texture to it. Have you ever wiped down a drywall patch with a sponge? It cleans it up, so can you imagine sackling nail holes and then caulking jams after with a sponge to wipe off excess off. Maybe all the sparkle will be wiped off by the end of caulking process.
Here is something that works for me. I put water in a 5 gallon bucket so when I am between using the caulking gun or have to let it sit for a while I hang it up in the bucket. The caulk won't dry out under water and your ready to go when you need it again. No need to mess with putting on caps, a screw in the end or tape it closed as I have seen some others do.
How would you prep and prime a cut end piece of mdf where the "grain" was exposed? What is your favorite mdf primer coat for a latex top coat?
Zinser 123
Such a legend, thank you sir!
You're welcome!
Just wondering if you have outdoor tips for spackling and caulking around door and windows before painting? Or is it the same process as indoors? Appreciate your videos!
Fairly the same just use exterior products and we have more videos about exterior prep! 🤙Paint On!
Awesome, thank you! I'm gonna spackle/caulk the heck outta this pocket door trim I just put back together. Appreciate the teaching.
Love your videos....I have a couple questions. I have some bare wood that I’ve put on the wall for a board and batten entry way. I spackled all my nail holes. Should I spray on the primer first and then Caulk? Or caulk first then prime? I have an airless sprayer. Also, do I fill the seams where the boards meet with caulk or spackle? Where the boards meet the wall most of the seams appear to be really tight, do I still need to caulk all of them even if they appear to be tight? thanks
Any other sprayer you'd suggest or that you use sometimes when you only need to spray one door and trim rather than setting up and having to clean an airless sprayer up taking more time for setup and cleanup than it does to spray? I currently use a Titan 440. Btw...so many people don't realize proper prep work is absolutely key and just want to learn how to paint. I say prep is a good 70-80% of the job. Thanks and good to see some of your tips making it easier for some things I've been doing it the hard way and other videos just confirming what I've learned on my own that someone else is doing it that way too and probably the best way and is the way I've taught other people how too (like cutting in and trusting the brush edge). I recently made an in-house video cutting in on a 40deg wall-ceiling edge and maintaining a straight line.
Mark @
Minton Property Management and Services Company
Great vid 👍
Thank you🤙
She got you good at the end😁😁😁
I heard pro and cons of caulking, spackling yes. if you caulk both sides of door trim, how do you then paint the wall a different color, painters tape or do you make the bead of caulk so small you don't worry about the concave of the caulk?
I have a lot of wainscot I did with primed finger-joint Pine. Sanded, spackled and caulked. Want to prime and sand again prior to spraying. What's the best way to remove sanded residue from trim? Thanks, Bill.
Awesome job! He's the Man!
Great video 👍🏻 thanks
I like your logic and teaching style, can I use the bondo glazing and sanding without any shrink free spackling? I just upgraded my door trims and I want to fill in the nail holes
On small holes
Top skills as always, give calkin a go with no angle cut ,work with the line of the gun its a lot faster when you adapt to it ,it saves looking for the angle on the gun all the time budy
Thanks Joel
I am painter in Pakistan like your job
The Idaho Painter u welcome
THNKS FOR UR KNOWLEDGE IT HELPS US DUMMIES DO THIS THE RITE WAY
Thoughts on wood filler over spackle for nail holes?
Wood filler can potentially be a nightmare to sand and has a rather gritty or lumpy finish. Spackling is the exact opposite,very smooth and easy to sand. The problem with spackling ( even shrink free) is the shrinkage. Some people mix a (small) bit of water based lightweight woodfiller into their spackling mix. to prevent shrinkage and therefore save time and make more money. Stay safe bro!! Just a tip. Works for me.
I use puddy grab a lil ball pres it on to the holes with youre thum and scrape /level with stiff puddy knife. Then sand
PVA drywall primers good and fast - and dries quick, I’ve never seen the bondo putty
Thanks for watching Oskar!
Can I use finishing glaze straight over nails without spackle?
Seems like a long process to fill sand fill sand
Hi Chris, quick question. GC here... How would you prep and prime a cut end piece of mdf where the "grain" was exposed? What is your favorite mdf primer coat for a latex top coat?
It would be awesome to see a comparison video of a painted piece of trim with spackle vs one with the bondo compound.
Good idea!
wet mutton /cheese cloth is awesome for gapping Chris I gap everything lol prep prep prep I find undercoat or pigmented sealer first shows up all gaps that's just me though love ur videos
Question: Is there hack or a better way then cutting it out and getting rid of silicone caulking so you can paint?
Why do you use two coats of primer? Also when priming bare wood when do you use oil and when do you use latex primers. Thanks Chris
Spring Nailsets are the shit I got mine at Cloverdale
Hi Chris I have a question for ya. Whats your opinion on masonite doors ? Do you like painting masonite doors ? So I'm not a big fan on masonite doors. I don't like that on humid days sometimes the paint likes to run because the paint doesn't adhere like it does on wood. I do like the way it looks when sprayed though. Here in Massachusetts the carpentry contractors love using masonite doors instead of wood doors. I would rather paint wood doors rather than masonite doors. Just want to get another painter's opinion on painting masonite, especially from a different state. Thank you and happy painting.