All I got from the F-stopper's review was: "Sure, a Camry will do everything you need, but a BMW is so much nicer". Thank you for a more realistic comparison.
Robert Hall's review's = I drive a Camry (Godox) because I have no real appreciation for design principles, or user interface/ user EXPERIENCE... I'm cheap as well, so I hate on all the BMW drivers 🤣 This was actually a perfect metaphor I see a lot from Godox fanboys like Robert here. Profoto's brand principles: Design, fit and finish. Attention to quality and consistency, so the user can focus on what the PHOTOGRAPHER's overall intention is, which is taking amazing photo's. Just like BMW brand principles: Design, quality and user interface, attention on the DRIVER's experience, that's why they call it "The Ultimate Driving Machine."
@@orion2250 Apparently you never owned a BMW. I've never had one electrical issue with a BMW. And I've had 5 of them throughout my life. There a driver's car. Not a commuter. A driver isn't too lazy or uneducated to change their own oil, hence the reason the oil filters are on top of the motor. Change your oil regularly, fluids, and at 100,000 your timing chain, and head gasket (if necessary.) I guarantee you'll get another 100k.
Glad I watched your video before making a purchase. I saw the f-stoppers video and had started doubting my choice of the Godox. Nice job calling out the bad information!
Fun story from last year International Photography Fair in Paris. I had a long and fun conversation with a random group of photographers, and a question came up from one of them: Him - How often do you shoot with strobes? Me - Oh, I don't know, maybe 80-90% of my work are with strobes. Him - What brand do you use? Me - Year ago I switched everything for godox. Him - Well, let me introduce you the president of Profoto at your left Followed by a moment of akward silence, this is where the conversation ended.
Lol. I had a pretty awkward exchange with a Profoto rep at Photokina, where I was able to thwart her marketing talk with real world performance differences. She didn't last long.
To be honest: I would have told him that Profoto has to step up its game in order to compete with Godox. Because if a Brand can do the same for half the price, there is no need to buy the expensive stuff. This has happened so many times already. Just look what Sony did to Canon and Nikon.
As a Profoto user the modelling lamp has been a game changer for me in fact I use it more then the flash for weddings with a magnum reflector it is very powerful. Being able to match the ambient colour and work with continuous light has been amazing.
I think dual purpose LED / flash are the future for sure. I don't think LED is quite there yet though. I can't find many instances where the modeling lamp is bright enough, but I also typically use heavily diffused / large modifiers.
It's like comparing a Ferrari to a Ford Fusion. Sure the Ferrari is the faster, the cooler but where should i put the family?! Thank you for the practical perspective! That's the difference between a sales man and an actual end-user. Subscribed!
I know this is an older video, but want to weigh in on build quality. I recently switched from Elinchrom. My Elinchrom Quadra’s have been in service (and still work) after 9 years of heavy use. Everyone told me to not think twice and pick up some Godox lights. Well, I did just that and am disappointed in the plastic and build. They feel like the old disposable photogenic lights I use to use. I just got my hands on a Profoto B10. The build quality between Godox and Profoto isn’t comparable in the least. As a working professional using lights daily, there’s no way I’d rely on Godox over Profoto.... price aside.
Hm, I guess I have a hard time understanding what difference it makes considering I'm not using my lights to pound nails in. My lights hardly make contact with anything. I've flown with Godox lights in unpadded checked cases, no problems. I had my (again, unpadded) lighting case fall from the back of an uber to concrete, when he opened his trunk while parked on a hill, no problem. I dropped an AD600bm from 6 feet, bulb broke, light still works today. So even in rare accidents, it's been my experience that the plastic isn't a significant weakness. In the last instance (in which any light's bulb would have broke), repair would have cost more with a Profoto then it costs to fully replace an AD600bm, so I'm not even sure how said build quality creates an advantage. And, I'm always reminded of my friends Profoto B2 that spontaneously caught on fire inside, destroying the light, and Profoto didn't offer a solution outside of "You can order a new one because this costs too much to repair" lol. All in all my kit goes on location almost daily, slides around in my trunk when it's not being used, and gets exposed more outdoor time than most spend holding their cameras. And I've never had a light break down from use. If I was on planes frequently, I'd have full confidence with them in hard cases.
@@robhallphoto I know you use your equipment as I enjoy your many videos. I’m also sure your equipment has been beat up from use. My Elinchrom lights received lots of abuse over the past 9 years, my Photogenic over past 19. I’d have stuck with Elinchrom but it seems they’ve become somewhat obsolete in the past few years. I’ve been a professional commercial photographer the past 12 years and portrait photographer for past 19 years. I can’t speak to the durability of the Godox... they seem to be working really well for a lot of people. However, I’ve had equipment with the same feel to the buttons, sub-menus, and plastics that haven’t stood up to much abuse. Perhaps I’m being unwarrantedly discriminative but I just couldn’t keep the lights. Profoto’s have a seamless menu coupled with a durable feel. I carry extra lights on every shoot. I’d gladly mix Godox in with another system, but I’m hesitant to rely on Godox alone. The feel of the Profoto is more in line with Elinchrom. They feel more durable and I know how much abuse Elinchrom lights take.
I have to say thank to Godox for making wireless stroke affordable to amateur like me. Nikon optical trigger are flaky outside and Godox make it so affordable, not everybody can dose out thousands of dollars for Profoto. Godox gave me a sense of what is like to "overpower the sun"
Since many of the comparisons are very similar for the average user, I think its really going to come down to cost, as the B10 is about 3x as much as the AD400 Pro. Sure, the Profoto will last a lot longer (from a lifespan standpoint) than the Godox but that's something to consider too when buying. If you're the type that doesn't mind having to replace your light every 3-5 years or likes to upgrade frequently, then getting the Godox may be a more cost effective route. If you want a system you can keep for a long time, then the Profoto might be a better, but more expensive, option. If you're shooting professionally, you may want to consider the Profoto because still, you do get what you pay for here. Not to say that the Godox gear is bad, but reliability and longevity may become factors. With the Godox, you may for example, have to replace the bulb more often or the battery may not last as long as the Profot,o but at the same time, these replacement parts for Godox are probably cheaper (like was mentioned, if you break the bulb on the Godox, you can just get another one, whereas with the Profoto you have to send it in, which can be a hassle if you damage the bulb while on location or traveling...). (I've just made it a habbit to always have a spare flash tube/bulb with me, for my Godox AD200 and other flashes that use flash tubes).
I think the utility in lights lasting 10+ years is waning, because technology is moving so much faster than previous decades. It made sense for a head to last 30 years, when there was little to no improvement in lighting over that same period. Now, we're faced with a reality where sync speeds are increasing, fps has increased a ton, and the global shutter is near - all of which require changes to lighting technology to fully realize the potential. Additionally there's really nothing out there to suggest modern Godox lights won't last as long as comparable Profoto products. Any info that we do have is anecdotal. I know people cranking away on the original AD360 (launched in 2012), and I know people who have had their Profoto B2's catch on fire. Not trying to draw a conclusion here, there's people out there with the opposite experience as well.
Thanks Robert. Awesome video as usual. The Godox AD400 Pro is the obvious choice. Pity about its modelling light but it works flawlessly with my other Godox lights/triggers which is more important to me. Godox should update their displays for readability and increase their acessory line-up. but overall, they are awesome products and great value for money. If you need a dedicated modelling light you can buy one with the money you saved by not buying ProPhoto. Yes, the ProPhoto is a awesome light although out of my price range especially when I conmpare my total Godox gear cost with the high quality imaging results I get with the help of my Sony A7R3 (love it), Adorama's Glow Ez softboxes and MagMod products.
I actually wouldn't say the modeling lamp is useless. It was one of the main factors for me getting the AD400Pro. I have 2 AD360s and not having the model lamp slows me down sometimes. I shoot a lot of food and being able to get an approximation of where the light is and what it is doing is very helpful. Now in bright sun yes it is useless but indoors and studio it works great.
Fabulous quality info. Thanks for all the hard work. I’m surprised at the hate/rant on the modelling lights. For me, using a Sony A7R3 and typical studio settings (SS250, ISO100, F5.6-F11 and live view off) the bright modelling light of the Godox PRO series (400 or 600) means very good focusing vs struggling focus compared to the non-Pro AD600. It’s been a game changer especially with some of the older Sony GM lens like the GM 85 or the FE50 1.4. But I understand that based on your measurements that they make for terrible hot-lights. So, I would have appreciated a comment on light output of the two strobe’s modelling lights. Cheers, and once again thank you.
I still find the modeling lamps to be too weak when in a modifier, and typically not worth the lost battery. I do sometimes use the modeling lamp on my AD600 Pro in studio that's connected to an AC adapter, but for everything that I keep mobile I tend not to use it.
Can you do a temperature test, I live in Flagstaff and shooting in the winter can get crazy. Last week I was using an Orlit RT 300 from Adorama in under 30 degrees and it locked up. I also had the same issue with the Orlit 610. I was set up to take a picture of a football team and nothing I quickly reached into my bag and grabbed an EX 600 RT and got my shoot! How does the godox do on the cold I have also heard nightmare stories about there customer service
In studio flash gear history, Bron (of broncolor trademark) has always been the inventor of consistency in color temperature and speed plus short flash duration. The name Profoto sounds very professional, but insiders with sufficient budget (business case) would avoid it and go broncolor (way back). With Nikon (and Canon) having developed speedlights that can deliver these qualities from a small package in a small scale, and other Asian manufacturers having copied the design principles, Profoto now has to catch up. I love Profoto's expensive RFi softboxes - that's it.
With Bron and Profoto at similar price, I had always go for Bron lights and their Para. For playing around I am starting to use godox, which is less reliable in all sort of ways(on way or the other is do not work from time to time or trigger everytime), While the Bron or Profoto( I have the A1) I still have not notice any mis-firing or non-firing. Only problem is I can get an full set of godox 3-4 lights and modifiers for a medium studio at the price of a single Profoto light.
@@4KLive- @@4KLive- I concur. I invested in the Joe McNally (Nikon speedlights and PocketWizard FlexTT radios). With the higher usable ISO of digital cameras, we need to wonder how often we need more than 75 Ws (about the power of a Speedlight FWIW). Two of these buggers in a 3' x 4' softbox no problem. Yes, the Para series are incredibly good. I tried to copy it with a Westcott Zeppelin, my own DIY speedring and focusing. At 1/3 the cost, by far not as good. If only bron did a battery-powered 200 Ws mono with PW & Sekonic compatible radio and TTL at a diameter that could hold Profoto RFi softboxes. My biggest flash dependability problem is that my camera does not reliably do TTL under 60% battery capacity. (So I have 4.) As to recycle time, the SD-9 external battery pack makes those extremely consistent, thermally protected, speedlights very fast. And clumsy, but with 10 of them, I can evenly light vrry deep/large spaces and they are small enough to hide them. Expensive? Yes. And then you need to recharge 10 x 12 AA cells (take them out, put in charger, charge, take out and put back in flash + SD-9. (I was lucky to find a reliable Chinese SD-9 rip-off at 25% of the price.) Portable, flexible modularity and backstage a lot of hassle.
@@jpdj2715 I have also tried the other dead cheap giant para similar to the Zeppelin, honestly they are more difficult and timely to setup and the effect is not as good. On the other hand, you will find some $50 adaptors for bowens/Profoto/hotshoe mount. The effect of the Ad200 using barebulb with the para is not bad at all. Only problem is not TTL for the Bron, TTL is a bit quicker in quick changing environment.
@@4KLive- True that. I had an additional PW for a remote camera, but never used that and now use it as a parallel trigger on a separate radio channel giving me another A, B and C group (but only manual). I use that for background lighting, background effects and contour lights. Then the main PW transmitter can do TTL so my subject(s) have more freedom to move towards the camera without getting over-exposed. Yes, the Zeppelin is best left set up and never taken apart. The Bron Para is at another level. With a Para 220 (over 7 ft dia that probably needs a pack based studio flash) you can get more distance and the inverse square law will bite your exposure less. BTW, have you ever checked to see if a focused deep parabolic that throws a cylindrical beam of light does not follow the inverse square law anymore? It has been on my to-do list for a long time, but no priority.
@@jpdj2715 it still follow the inverse square law, is just like the Fresnel will follow inverse square law. For the Para 220/222 unless if you are shooting out door or you have a very large studio you will not need a very powerful 1600W light, even the 400W Siros will not need to be on full power. Just think, we can usually shoot group photo in a big hall with a couple of 400W lights, no studio are that big. Usually 3 hotshoe speed light is adequate( just recharging time and others are the issue). I can even use 300W LED as constant light for shooting.
Question: I have been using Flashpoint for years and love it. The one negative I have experienced is that every so often the trigger seems to time out. By this I mean, it will not trigger the flash and then I realize (by looking through the EVF - I use Nikon BTW) that it has reverted to 'live view' so I switch he camera off and on again and it is back up and running. Switching the camera off and on always fixes the problem until the next time it happens - leading me to believe that this is a setting and not a bug - do you have any insight on this and what setting I need to change so that I do not miss shots inadvertently anymore. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you. -PD
Profoto addressed not displaying the colour of the modelling lamp in one of their live videos. They said that there was too much variance in the colour output of LED's and it would make the unit cost more if they had to make the colour consistent with a temperature readout. I don't know enough about it to know if that sounds reasonable or not.
That makes sense. Since getting the colorimeter I'm realizing how much some of these Bi-color LEDs are completely off. Either the temp isn't accurate, the temperature (Kelvin) shifts as the panel changes temperature ( F/C ), or the range isn't right. It's amazing how reliant we all are on color, yet our gels, our cameras, and our lighting are all off in their proprietary adaptation of color.
I thought it was kinda BS when I saw that explanation but usually they are on point with everything else on the profoto videos. So it is true then. the color temps just arent accurate on LEDs in general?
@@RayValdezPhotography in my experience so far, no. First thing I did when I got my colorimeter was check out the temps and CRI on pretty much everything I have in studio. Some are extremely close, like within 100k. But I have cheaper panels that are off by as much as 400-500k. Also in Bi-color panels I saw a lot of "3200k-5600k" panels being more like 3600k-5500k, with accuracy in between being off by a lot. I'm not sure where the fault is. Are these brands just getting LEDs that aren't accurate to what they market? Are they using a different tool to "calibrate"? Maybe their ratios are just sloppy? I think a lot of it boils down to a lack of standardization. Just like 5600k is different on Canon, Nikon, Sony, these brands may be trying their best to have accurate numbers but are all using different methods and measurement to get there.
@@robhallphoto Robert is very much to do with which generation LED your gear was using. I had the C700 since it came out and now changed to C800. I always test my gear and do at test at the shop before I put my money in. The quality of these LED chips/beads have improved significantly in the last year, I guess they do not make those lower quality LED chip/beads any more. At the same time, most of the variable LED are inaccurate, it will be best to use constant daylight LED and get the color temp you want by applying them. LED filter are very reasonable priced these days.
A benefit of the AD200 and AD400 here is that at 1/220", they both have the potential to hypersync on a modern camera with a shutter sync speed of 1/250" or faster. I've had a chance to test Hypersync on an AD200 and Sony A7RIII, and it works. The Profoto B10 simply wouldn't work.
@@Innovate-pq9ci: I mean hypersync. It's a bit of a hack, but it's possible to hypersync the AD200 with the Sony A7III using optical slave mode or the XTR16. I'm sure the B10 supports HSS, so there's probably not a significant difference between the two in that regard.
Makes good sense, Robert. However (and there's always a however)., I would have thought that a comparison with the AD400Pro with the Profoto adapter and the OCF Magnum would have quieted some of the objections. The AD-P + round head + OCF Magnum would be interesting when you compare it to the B10.
That's not a bad solution, however I think since the AD400 Pro head is not natively designed to work with Profoto it represents a very small niche of how people would use it.
I'm curious as to a comparison of using the Profoto adapter on the AD400Pro. That would be more realistic comparison overall more of an apples to apples. That being said i think that having basically 3 mount options possibly four (Elinchrom) makes the Godox a tremendous value when you add everything up.
I don't think adapting is apples to apples at all. Most photographers choosing one system or another would use the native mount. Adapting the Godox just bottlenecks it's design which isn't relative to how most buyers would use it. I do agree the mount flexibility is nice to apply to photographers coming from different systems.
@@robhallphoto well for me anyway the Profoto mount was the clincher. I bought the AD400Pro based on that and it's modeling lamp. I have a pretty extensive Profoto Acute system already. Being able to adapt the Godox to it is huge. So for Profoto users it is apples to apples. I don't see how adapting it bottlenecks it's design in fact the opposite. It gives you many options to be able to use a vast array of light modifiers. The Broncolor and Profoto modifiers produce some unique light. The Bowens modifiers are ok but are limited in range. Though if you are just using a softbox or umbrella none of it really matters then.
Joedy Barnes correct , but if you have an important, multi day shoot outside the USA you will not have anyone to support you. That is why the reviews say : buy from a reputable dealer, I will go further and say : but then from Adorama (safe) and possible B&H
Hey Robert, I'm a Profoto user and a very disappointed one. I'm considering switching to Godox but one of the things that concern me is not being able to use it plugged in the outlet because often I shoot products too and would like that ability. That's pretty much the only reason I'm still considering switching and haven't done it yet. What would be the solution for that since you mentioned apparently the ac adapter is not available? Thank you so much!
Just bought 3 units of the 600pro non ttl from adorama, got them today, none of the batteries are charging =/ Hope them can exchange them quickly. I was really excited about moving from profoto to godox but that was a very bad start. Hope it works out alright at the end.
I've covered their power/size difference, but given their feature set and light quality is so similar I don't see a reason to go more in depth. Any questions you think are unanswered?
just wondering... I know this isn't about the AD600 Pro, but you mentioned that the AD400 Pro's modeling lamp isn't good, but what about the AD600 Pro? I currently have the base model AD600BM and I've been happy with it, but my only gripe would be the useless modeling lamp, if the AD600 Pro's lamp is usable, then I'm seriously considering it. (I know it'll be useless outdoors, but I still do a lot of indoor studio portraits and it's nice to be able to see how the light is going to land BEFORE taking the shot)
Well, im saying good as in quality of light. That wouldn't matter for portraits where you're still using the flash to light the portrait. And I say they are useless because they aren't bright enough for the location work that they are designed for. In a dark studio they'll both have enough light for focusing at close distances though.
Ken Cheng it’s good for working in a studio and see where the light fall. The Profoto is an hybrid solution: you can use it for thanking a short video for example.
Absolutely looks great and I think the "canister" shape is great for packing up in smaller kits. But, definitely hard to justify when the performance is so close.
It looks much better but the issue is profoto is ridiculously overpriced. Well, I guess they are priced ok for their target market but we will see if they are going to try and expand since godox is becoming so prominent
@@robhallphoto this is an iphone vs a mid-range android device. Both do similar things, bit Profoto is just more user friendly. I just shot 2 weeks of solid back to back location shoots in all kinds of weather and conditions. All I can say is that this small form factor of B10s ( I had 3 with me ) was a life savior. The ease of use and the bluetooth capability was almost like cheating. It was an amazing experience. Yes - these are expensive. But I can absolutely justify the price because of these reasons above
Would love to see you compare the Godox gear vs Broncolor to venture away from the Profoto comparison. Your reviews and comparisons are great, but how about a bit more variety?
Since Broncolor use HS instead of HSS, the Broncolor will remain at full power up to 1/8000 shutter speed. Godox will lose badly in these similar test.
@@4KLive Thanks for that info. Definitely wasn't aware. That would be a great comparison. Splitting hairs with reviews of similar products is great, but going from one level, to a whole different level to compare the why products like this differ.
I have the B10 and love it. I think the ease of use, reliability, and support of this system make it worth the price. They also have a lot more specialist modifiers than Godox with a greater ability to rent additional lights and modifiers should you need them. I also find that Profoto doesn’t misfire as much. But the B10 for me is great as a hybrid shooter because I can use it for on the go location work for video or photo. The bi-color LED is one of my favorite things about it because I can match to the ambient light at venues. I’ve tried both systems and think they are both compelling for different reasons.
I haven't experienced it myself and have 3 600 Pros (haven't heard it at all regarding 400 Pro). I know my friend had it happen when he ordered 4. 1 of the 4 batteries was faulty right out of the box and he had it quickly replaced with Adorama.
Thanks Robert I love your work and your channel. I must say Adorama has the best customer service. They offered me a store credit or exchange. I'm still a flashpoint fan for life. Keep up the good work.
Sory before becoz i dont mean for being rude..do you have a problem with a certain brand(in this case profoto)?i dont own both product but i think althought they have their own plus minus..they are both great product..it depends on how the photographer use them..sory again and great review btw 😁
I have a problem with Profoto's marketing. But as equipment, no. I just provide reviews that focus on scientific differences so people can look past all the marketing nonsense.
They definitely need to clean that up, even if it means dropping the recycle speed. I'd like it to be user choice. A menu option where your recycle is slower but no counter, or an "overcharged" option where you can shoot faster recycles for a limited amount of time.
There is that saying that tech-journalists went to journalism because they lack the skills and knowledge to go into the industry or into research. I mean, the difference between amps and watts? FStoppers, really?
Why in the earth would anyone go for the Profoto B10 while it costs 4 times the Godox AD400 pro ?! I don’t see anything that could make the photographs you take better with the Profoto B10. Am I missing something here ?
My review of the Godox was that we used for a couple weeks and it wasn’t reliable at all so switched to b10 and no problems... and can use my mods since use D1’s in studio
I've shot Godox with Canon for years. Very reliable, I switched to Sony, and I had a high misfire rate. I turned off the EFCS, and my issues went away. Very satisfied with the system.
I used Godox Xpro trigger and AD600 flawlwssly with my Canon 5DII, but got a lot of misfires once I changed to Sony. In the end, I changed the setting in the trigger to short range and I haven't had a misfire since.
Just a month after you made this video, the B10 plus was announced, with more power and from what I can tell a much more similar size. I enjoy your videos, but they seem to be pretty outdated. Now even the "X" variants of the B10 exist. So does Godox have anything that compares these days except for the fact that they're cheaper? Would love your thoughts.
Godox really wasn’t doing much until the past 3 years. Profoto has been around a long time, so you can rent modifiers and lights at almost any rental house. The support is also a lot better. I also think they are much easier to use and have more modifiers to choose from. There are a lot of reasons, but they may not be enough for some people. Either way, I think these are the only two lighting brands in the game right now doing anything interesting.
What about long term, heavy use reliability? Read my other comment. Profoto has a long term reputation off reliable service in difficult situations. Godox does NOT!
@@cavebeastdemon3631 Correct - if you genuinely make money and use equipment week in week out you need reliability more than everything. I work with people who use Profoto this is a major reason they use it. If your a casual or part time photographer who doesn't move his or her equipment around a lot Id buy Godox.
@@cavebeastdemon3631 Here's one for you. Local photographer had his Profoto B2 kit start smoking because of a small internal fire on the head during outdoor use. Idk the warranty length on Profoto gear but "spontaneous fire" should probably be covered for a while. Profoto offered no resolution to repair nor offer any deal on a replacement. His only option was to buy another at full price. He switched lighting brands at that point. Additionally, one need only look at the Profoto groups for a long list of QA issues on their new A1 to see Profoto is far from infallible when it comes to durability.
Let's stop talking about F-Stoppers. I have seen a couple things from them that photographically were nice, but the moment they start teaching, try to get nerdy, they remind me of Laurel and Hardy. Always bumbling around.
@@RayValdezPhotography- your feeling is yours, I respect that. I just see a lot of ignorance. People can be consciously competent or incompetent, or not be aware of either. In their case my feeling is of incompetence they for the most part are not aware of.
@@jpdj2715 They and a lot of others online dont come off as scientific and factual when it comes to photography. I see a lot of opinion and guessing. I been checking out the robert hall dude. he seems legit using documentation and numbers. Also the best in terms of science , photography, and using examples is on the profoto page. The guys Anders and David Bicho. Even though they are on profoto page, they dont come off as salesmen. they simply tell you how things work factually and in depth.
@@RayValdezPhotography- Agreed. And, yes, Robert does a good job. True, the Profoto content by real commercial pros is very good. That said, look for broncolor content too. Their in-house photographers and collaborations create really good work.
What about long term, heavy use reliability. This is much more important than most people think (for instance, if you do multiple $10,000+ photo shoots) and maybe account for the much higher price of Profoto. I don't know if Profoto uses better materials and or construction because no one ever tests that (that I know of). A Chinese wrench and a Snap-On wrench will both turn bolts but if the Chinese wrench breaks in the middle of a job (the Snap-On won't) you are getting paid a lot of money to do, it is not worth the cheaper price! I say this because usually (not always) *you get what you pay for*. It would take several scientifically designed torture tests and /or disassembly and material / construction identification of both lights to determine this. Proclaiming the Godox a better deal just based on performance is NOT a true statement! That being said; I will probably be buying some Godox lights because I can afford them and they are good enough for me right now! That still doesn't mean they are just as good or better than Profoto!
First, like you said it takes scientific stress tests and the destruction of expensive light to come to a conclusion. So, who exactly is going to be able to afford that type of test? I'm certainly not able. Second, using a scientific test to quantify the anecdotal situations that occur causing people to damage lights? Even if you determine one is stronger materials with percentages, does that even translate to real world experience? Regardless if you were able to come to a conclusion you get no information as to how that translates to a specific photographer. Ultimately, we're left with what I said. The Profoto feels denser and they have global support should an issue arise, both pros in terms of long term durability (at least we think). Also, I myself am not worried about long term durability due to the speed of technology advancing. How many years are we from cameras incorporating the global shutter, at which point you would need a new light with new systems on board to sync at all shutter speeds without HSS. How many years are we away from LED brightness efficiency quadrupling and actually being able to use LED flash for balancing outdoors? How long before HS timing makes HSS irrelevant? All those things are possible in our near future and will require new equipment to utilize. I feel like the days of needing a light to last 20 years are gone. Lastly, I've used AD200s for some 400+ shoots since getting less than 2 years ago. They have sat in the soft exterior pouch of light stand bag, completely unprotected from daily bumps and bruises. They have blown over onto grass, slipped out of my hand, rattled around in a car daily, smacked doorways, etc. And still, they all work. While I constantly give Profoto build quality points in my videos, I've yet to have an AD200 die on me despite an extremely high volume of use. The one time one broke after it was slammed into the ground from 10 feet high directly onto the display. Repair was $80. If the Profoto B10 were to have survived that unscathed (which I doubt, and which would have cost more money to repair), we're talking more than 15 examples of that before I'd "break even" on the additional investment of the Profoto.
Good point to raise concerning the battery reliability issues found in the AD600Pro line at least. Several users (including myself) have had to return the battery (~$180!) for replacement to Adorama after minimal use - it just stopped charging!?! I presume that may happen to any battery, but this seems to be a QC issue with Godox - hence it’s important to have a support system from the vendor (Profoto) or retailer (eg Adorama) as Rob mentioned. 12:40 customer support service 14:00 PSA for Godox batteries, perhaps that is the issue for the batteries
All I can say as a user of profoto. My B1s are still good. I got them when they came out like in 2014. I used them for hundreds of shoots. The only issue I have is that the battery life on at least one has less charge but that is a known issue with physics rechargeable batteries. They have good customer service though. You can call them and ask questions and they know their shit. Kinda like canon.
Fully agree the B10 is super compelling because of its size, support and “good power” not because it Max power is equivalent to other bigger solutions. The light quality is far better than a speed light and forward enough to compensate for the lack of power. There is no reason to exaggerate.
the B10 is a 250ws light and the AD400 is a 400ws light. of course the Godox is going to be more powerful. why wouldn't you compare it to the B10 plus which is closer in power at 500ws?
This video contains some good information, but your technical explanation of the battery capacity is not correct. It is correct to measure a battery capacity in terms of amp-hrs. A battery stores a charge separation, and amp-hrs is a measure of charge. Voltage is a measure of a potential energy difference. However, this is not a good indicator of the capacity of the battery. In fact, you can change the configuration of a set of batteries to give high or low voltages without changing the capacity of the batteries. For example, batteries wired in series versus parallel. Thus voltage is not a measure of the capacity of a battery. I think you are misinterpreting the total energy output in the form of light, with the capacity of the battery. This may be a useful way of looking at the performance of the light as a whole, but it is certainly not a good way to measure the capacity of the battery. The efficiency of the strobe (i.e. the fraction of stored potential energy that is converted into light) is a big and important factor in such an evaluation.
In the end it all boils down to - do you really want to use something as ugly, as Godox is? AD200 anyone? Oh my, how could anyone "design" something like that? So far, we are with Elinchroms. Looking at Profotos, using some Godox stuff, but really - I need to like the stuff I am using, hence don't want to base my decision upon the specsheets and price only.
In the end, that's the worst justification I've ever read for choosing a light. The AD200's design is incredible, for its performance / size, modularity, versatility. To write all that off for how it looks (which, I feel like isn't even ugly) is terrible judgement.
@@robhallphoto I base my judgements on multiple factors and the design is as much important to me, as the product stability and the whole product range ecosystem and interoperability. I have built our studio bottom-up, used even Godox before general public started to preach to them many years ago. Then I have settled up on Elinchrom ecosystem to start with. The only mantra I can hear nowadays mostly is - I can buy xy of this, for the price of that, most of the time irrespective of other factors. If you don't find AD200 being a terrible design, then whatever :-)
im gonna go out on a limb here..... i havent even watched the video yet but im gonna bet RHP recommends the godox... because he's sponsored by godox. nothing that comes from his mouth is unbiased in anyway shape and form.
All I got from the F-stopper's review was: "Sure, a Camry will do everything you need, but a BMW is so much nicer".
Thank you for a more realistic comparison.
You're welcome!
Bmw is shit cars can’t be compared to a Toyota on reliability
BMWs electrical systems suck among other issues. Good looking but will leave you walking.Toyota’s are ride or die..I’ll take godox
Robert Hall's review's = I drive a Camry (Godox) because I have no real appreciation for design principles, or user interface/ user EXPERIENCE... I'm cheap as well, so I hate on all the BMW drivers 🤣
This was actually a perfect metaphor I see a lot from Godox fanboys like Robert here. Profoto's brand principles: Design, fit and finish. Attention to quality and consistency, so the user can focus on what the PHOTOGRAPHER's overall intention is, which is taking amazing photo's. Just like BMW brand principles: Design, quality and user interface, attention on the DRIVER's experience, that's why they call it "The Ultimate Driving Machine."
@@orion2250 Apparently you never owned a BMW. I've never had one electrical issue with a BMW. And I've had 5 of them throughout my life. There a driver's car. Not a commuter. A driver isn't too lazy or uneducated to change their own oil, hence the reason the oil filters are on top of the motor. Change your oil regularly, fluids, and at 100,000 your timing chain, and head gasket (if necessary.) I guarantee you'll get another 100k.
Glad I watched your video before making a purchase. I saw the f-stoppers video and had started doubting my choice of the Godox. Nice job calling out the bad information!
Your unbiased and objective review between the two flashes is amazing. FStoppers is always biased with the profoto brand. Good on you!
Fun story from last year International Photography Fair in Paris. I had a long and fun conversation with a random group of photographers, and a question came up from one of them:
Him - How often do you shoot with strobes?
Me - Oh, I don't know, maybe 80-90% of my work are with strobes.
Him - What brand do you use?
Me - Year ago I switched everything for godox.
Him - Well, let me introduce you the president of Profoto at your left
Followed by a moment of akward silence, this is where the conversation ended.
Lol.
I had a pretty awkward exchange with a Profoto rep at Photokina, where I was able to thwart her marketing talk with real world performance differences. She didn't last long.
That is an awesome story 😁😊
To be honest: I would have told him that Profoto has to step up its game in order to compete with Godox. Because if a Brand can do the same for half the price, there is no need to buy the expensive stuff. This has happened so many times already. Just look what Sony did to Canon and Nikon.
@@markr3926 but it's cheaper than half the price with better performance and features in some cases. Where is Profotos answer to the AD200?
@@markr3926 How many Profoto units have you had repaired to be able to claim to know about their reliability and customer service?
As a Profoto user the modelling lamp has been a game changer for me in fact I use it more then the flash for weddings with a magnum reflector it is very powerful. Being able to match the ambient colour and work with continuous light has been amazing.
I think dual purpose LED / flash are the future for sure. I don't think LED is quite there yet though. I can't find many instances where the modeling lamp is bright enough, but I also typically use heavily diffused / large modifiers.
Your attention to detail is top notch!. Thanks for sharing awesome content!
Seriously thought the Profoto connect was an April fools joke when it came out... Then I kept seeing the ads on social media LOL
Me too. That thing is so silly, especially from a brand that is supposed to take light control seriously.
It's like comparing a Ferrari to a Ford Fusion. Sure the Ferrari is the faster, the cooler but where should i put the family?! Thank you for the practical perspective! That's the difference between a sales man and an actual end-user. Subscribed!
I know this is an older video, but want to weigh in on build quality.
I recently switched from Elinchrom. My Elinchrom Quadra’s have been in service (and still work) after 9 years of heavy use. Everyone told me to not think twice and pick up some Godox lights. Well, I did just that and am disappointed in the plastic and build. They feel like the old disposable photogenic lights I use to use. I just got my hands on a Profoto B10. The build quality between Godox and Profoto isn’t comparable in the least. As a working professional using lights daily, there’s no way I’d rely on Godox over Profoto.... price aside.
Hm, I guess I have a hard time understanding what difference it makes considering I'm not using my lights to pound nails in. My lights hardly make contact with anything. I've flown with Godox lights in unpadded checked cases, no problems. I had my (again, unpadded) lighting case fall from the back of an uber to concrete, when he opened his trunk while parked on a hill, no problem. I dropped an AD600bm from 6 feet, bulb broke, light still works today. So even in rare accidents, it's been my experience that the plastic isn't a significant weakness. In the last instance (in which any light's bulb would have broke), repair would have cost more with a Profoto then it costs to fully replace an AD600bm, so I'm not even sure how said build quality creates an advantage. And, I'm always reminded of my friends Profoto B2 that spontaneously caught on fire inside, destroying the light, and Profoto didn't offer a solution outside of "You can order a new one because this costs too much to repair" lol.
All in all my kit goes on location almost daily, slides around in my trunk when it's not being used, and gets exposed more outdoor time than most spend holding their cameras. And I've never had a light break down from use. If I was on planes frequently, I'd have full confidence with them in hard cases.
@@robhallphoto I know you use your equipment as I enjoy your many videos. I’m also sure your equipment has been beat up from use. My Elinchrom lights received lots of abuse over the past 9 years, my Photogenic over past 19. I’d have stuck with Elinchrom but it seems they’ve become somewhat obsolete in the past few years.
I’ve been a professional commercial photographer the past 12 years and portrait photographer for past 19 years. I can’t speak to the durability of the Godox... they seem to be working really well for a lot of people. However, I’ve had equipment with the same feel to the buttons, sub-menus, and plastics that haven’t stood up to much abuse. Perhaps I’m being unwarrantedly discriminative but I just couldn’t keep the lights. Profoto’s have a seamless menu coupled with a durable feel. I carry extra lights on every shoot. I’d gladly mix Godox in with another system, but I’m hesitant to rely on Godox alone. The feel of the Profoto is more in line with Elinchrom. They feel more durable and I know how much abuse Elinchrom lights take.
I have to say thank to Godox for making wireless stroke affordable to amateur like me. Nikon optical trigger are flaky outside and Godox make it so affordable, not everybody can dose out thousands of dollars for Profoto. Godox gave me a sense of what is like to "overpower the sun"
Robert, that was a real good piece of work. Excellent. People should also look at your data in the community tab of your YT channel.
Thank you very much!
Great Video!!
Since many of the comparisons are very similar for the average user, I think its really going to come down to cost, as the B10 is about 3x as much as the AD400 Pro. Sure, the Profoto will last a lot longer (from a lifespan standpoint) than the Godox but that's something to consider too when buying. If you're the type that doesn't mind having to replace your light every 3-5 years or likes to upgrade frequently, then getting the Godox may be a more cost effective route. If you want a system you can keep for a long time, then the Profoto might be a better, but more expensive, option. If you're shooting professionally, you may want to consider the Profoto because still, you do get what you pay for here. Not to say that the Godox gear is bad, but reliability and longevity may become factors. With the Godox, you may for example, have to replace the bulb more often or the battery may not last as long as the Profot,o but at the same time, these replacement parts for Godox are probably cheaper (like was mentioned, if you break the bulb on the Godox, you can just get another one, whereas with the Profoto you have to send it in, which can be a hassle if you damage the bulb while on location or traveling...). (I've just made it a habbit to always have a spare flash tube/bulb with me, for my Godox AD200 and other flashes that use flash tubes).
I think the utility in lights lasting 10+ years is waning, because technology is moving so much faster than previous decades. It made sense for a head to last 30 years, when there was little to no improvement in lighting over that same period. Now, we're faced with a reality where sync speeds are increasing, fps has increased a ton, and the global shutter is near - all of which require changes to lighting technology to fully realize the potential.
Additionally there's really nothing out there to suggest modern Godox lights won't last as long as comparable Profoto products. Any info that we do have is anecdotal. I know people cranking away on the original AD360 (launched in 2012), and I know people who have had their Profoto B2's catch on fire. Not trying to draw a conclusion here, there's people out there with the opposite experience as well.
thanks for your video dear robert . you just did measure the cri of the modeling lamp ?
i want a ad400pro cri
thanks bro
Yeah, it's somewhat irrelevant to measure CRI of flash tubes as they are all 97+
Thanks Robert. Awesome video as usual. The Godox AD400 Pro is the obvious choice. Pity about its modelling light but it works flawlessly with my other Godox lights/triggers which is more important to me. Godox should update their displays for readability and increase their acessory line-up. but overall, they are awesome products and great value for money. If you need a dedicated modelling light you can buy one with the money you saved by not buying ProPhoto. Yes, the ProPhoto is a awesome light although out of my price range especially when I conmpare my total Godox gear cost with the high quality imaging results I get with the help of my Sony A7R3 (love it), Adorama's Glow Ez softboxes and MagMod products.
I actually wouldn't say the modeling lamp is useless. It was one of the main factors for me getting the AD400Pro. I have 2 AD360s and not having the model lamp slows me down sometimes. I shoot a lot of food and being able to get an approximation of where the light is and what it is doing is very helpful. Now in bright sun yes it is useless but indoors and studio it works great.
I agree Jason now after learning how to properly use it. Awesome power and adjustability.
Great work!
Fabulous quality info. Thanks for all the hard work. I’m surprised at the hate/rant on the modelling lights. For me, using a Sony A7R3 and typical studio settings (SS250, ISO100, F5.6-F11 and live view off) the bright modelling light of the Godox PRO series (400 or 600) means very good focusing vs struggling focus compared to the non-Pro AD600. It’s been a game changer especially with some of the older Sony GM lens like the GM 85 or the FE50 1.4. But I understand that based on your measurements that they make for terrible hot-lights. So, I would have appreciated a comment on light output of the two strobe’s modelling lights. Cheers, and once again thank you.
I still find the modeling lamps to be too weak when in a modifier, and typically not worth the lost battery. I do sometimes use the modeling lamp on my AD600 Pro in studio that's connected to an AC adapter, but for everything that I keep mobile I tend not to use it.
Robert Hall Photography I do see a dramatic difference in focusing with the 400Pro vs ad 600 non pro. And like you said .... where’s my AC adaptor ??!
Can you do a temperature test, I live in Flagstaff and shooting in the winter can get crazy. Last week I was using an Orlit RT 300 from Adorama in under 30 degrees and it locked up. I also had the same issue with the Orlit 610.
I was set up to take a picture of a football team and nothing
I quickly reached into my bag and grabbed an EX 600 RT and got my shoot!
How does the godox do on the cold
I have also heard nightmare stories about there customer service
In studio flash gear history, Bron (of broncolor trademark) has always been the inventor of consistency in color temperature and speed plus short flash duration. The name Profoto sounds very professional, but insiders with sufficient budget (business case) would avoid it and go broncolor (way back). With Nikon (and Canon) having developed speedlights that can deliver these qualities from a small package in a small scale, and other Asian manufacturers having copied the design principles, Profoto now has to catch up. I love Profoto's expensive RFi softboxes - that's it.
With Bron and Profoto at similar price, I had always go for Bron lights and their Para. For playing around I am starting to use godox, which is less reliable in all sort of ways(on way or the other is do not work from time to time or trigger everytime), While the Bron or Profoto( I have the A1) I still have not notice any mis-firing or non-firing. Only problem is I can get an full set of godox 3-4 lights and modifiers for a medium studio at the price of a single Profoto light.
@@4KLive- @@4KLive- I concur. I invested in the Joe McNally (Nikon speedlights and PocketWizard FlexTT radios). With the higher usable ISO of digital cameras, we need to wonder how often we need more than 75 Ws (about the power of a Speedlight FWIW). Two of these buggers in a 3' x 4' softbox no problem. Yes, the Para series are incredibly good. I tried to copy it with a Westcott Zeppelin, my own DIY speedring and focusing. At 1/3 the cost, by far not as good. If only bron did a battery-powered 200 Ws mono with PW & Sekonic compatible radio and TTL at a diameter that could hold Profoto RFi softboxes. My biggest flash dependability problem is that my camera does not reliably do TTL under 60% battery capacity. (So I have 4.) As to recycle time, the SD-9 external battery pack makes those extremely consistent, thermally protected, speedlights very fast. And clumsy, but with 10 of them, I can evenly light vrry deep/large spaces and they are small enough to hide them. Expensive? Yes. And then you need to recharge 10 x 12 AA cells (take them out, put in charger, charge, take out and put back in flash + SD-9. (I was lucky to find a reliable Chinese SD-9 rip-off at 25% of the price.) Portable, flexible modularity and backstage a lot of hassle.
@@jpdj2715 I have also tried the other dead cheap giant para similar to the Zeppelin, honestly they are more difficult and timely to setup and the effect is not as good.
On the other hand, you will find some $50 adaptors for bowens/Profoto/hotshoe mount. The effect of the Ad200 using barebulb with the para is not bad at all.
Only problem is not TTL for the Bron, TTL is a bit quicker in quick changing environment.
@@4KLive- True that. I had an additional PW for a remote camera, but never used that and now use it as a parallel trigger on a separate radio channel giving me another A, B and C group (but only manual). I use that for background lighting, background effects and contour lights. Then the main PW transmitter can do TTL so my subject(s) have more freedom to move towards the camera without getting over-exposed. Yes, the Zeppelin is best left set up and never taken apart. The Bron Para is at another level. With a Para 220 (over 7 ft dia that probably needs a pack based studio flash) you can get more distance and the inverse square law will bite your exposure less. BTW, have you ever checked to see if a focused deep parabolic that throws a cylindrical beam of light does not follow the inverse square law anymore? It has been on my to-do list for a long time, but no priority.
@@jpdj2715 it still follow the inverse square law, is just like the Fresnel will follow inverse square law. For the Para 220/222 unless if you are shooting out door or you have a very large studio you will not need a very powerful 1600W light, even the 400W Siros will not need to be on full power. Just think, we can usually shoot group photo in a big hall with a couple of 400W lights, no studio are that big. Usually 3 hotshoe speed light is adequate( just recharging time and others are the issue). I can even use 300W LED as constant light for shooting.
Question: I have been using Flashpoint for years and love it. The one negative I have experienced is that every so often the trigger seems to time out. By this I mean, it will not trigger the flash and then I realize (by looking through the EVF - I use Nikon BTW) that it has reverted to 'live view' so I switch he camera off and on again and it is back up and running. Switching the camera off and on always fixes the problem until the next time it happens - leading me to believe that this is a setting and not a bug - do you have any insight on this and what setting I need to change so that I do not miss shots inadvertently anymore. Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you.
-PD
Profoto addressed not displaying the colour of the modelling lamp in one of their live videos. They said that there was too much variance in the colour output of LED's and it would make the unit cost more if they had to make the colour consistent with a temperature readout. I don't know enough about it to know if that sounds reasonable or not.
That makes sense. Since getting the colorimeter I'm realizing how much some of these Bi-color LEDs are completely off. Either the temp isn't accurate, the temperature (Kelvin) shifts as the panel changes temperature ( F/C ), or the range isn't right.
It's amazing how reliant we all are on color, yet our gels, our cameras, and our lighting are all off in their proprietary adaptation of color.
I thought it was kinda BS when I saw that explanation but usually they are on point with everything else on the profoto videos. So it is true then. the color temps just arent accurate on LEDs in general?
@@RayValdezPhotography in my experience so far, no. First thing I did when I got my colorimeter was check out the temps and CRI on pretty much everything I have in studio. Some are extremely close, like within 100k. But I have cheaper panels that are off by as much as 400-500k. Also in Bi-color panels I saw a lot of "3200k-5600k" panels being more like 3600k-5500k, with accuracy in between being off by a lot.
I'm not sure where the fault is. Are these brands just getting LEDs that aren't accurate to what they market? Are they using a different tool to "calibrate"? Maybe their ratios are just sloppy?
I think a lot of it boils down to a lack of standardization. Just like 5600k is different on Canon, Nikon, Sony, these brands may be trying their best to have accurate numbers but are all using different methods and measurement to get there.
@@robhallphoto Robert is very much to do with which generation LED your gear was using.
I had the C700 since it came out and now changed to C800. I always test my gear and do at test at the shop before I put my money in. The quality of these LED chips/beads have improved significantly in the last year, I guess they do not make those lower quality LED chip/beads any more.
At the same time, most of the variable LED are inaccurate, it will be best to use constant daylight LED and get the color temp you want by applying them. LED filter are very reasonable priced these days.
The Carl Sagan of Studio Strobes...
Is it fair to say the AD200PRO with the bare bulb is a better comparison to the B10?
Well now I think it's obviously the AD300 Pro
@@robhallphoto facts.. I forgot that fast about the new ad300...lol
A benefit of the AD200 and AD400 here is that at 1/220", they both have the potential to hypersync on a modern camera with a shutter sync speed of 1/250" or faster. I've had a chance to test Hypersync on an AD200 and Sony A7RIII, and it works. The Profoto B10 simply wouldn't work.
Do you mean HSS? Hypersync is different.
@@Innovate-pq9ci: I mean hypersync. It's a bit of a hack, but it's possible to hypersync the AD200 with the Sony A7III using optical slave mode or the XTR16. I'm sure the B10 supports HSS, so there's probably not a significant difference between the two in that regard.
@@burning1rr why is there need to use HSS or HS at 1/220. it can sync normally to 1/250.
Good stuff bro!
thank you!
A bit off topic... but, are there any products to gel the ad400?
Looking to warm it up to balance afternoon sun
I just bought gel sheets and tape them to my modifier. I do think there are some gels made specifically for the ad600 pro and ad400 pro online.
Makes good sense, Robert. However (and there's always a however)., I would have thought that a comparison with the AD400Pro with the Profoto adapter and the OCF Magnum would have quieted some of the objections. The AD-P + round head + OCF Magnum would be interesting when you compare it to the B10.
That's not a bad solution, however I think since the AD400 Pro head is not natively designed to work with Profoto it represents a very small niche of how people would use it.
I'm curious as to a comparison of using the Profoto adapter on the AD400Pro. That would be more realistic comparison overall more of an apples to apples. That being said i think that having basically 3 mount options possibly four (Elinchrom) makes the Godox a tremendous value when you add everything up.
I don't think adapting is apples to apples at all. Most photographers choosing one system or another would use the native mount. Adapting the Godox just bottlenecks it's design which isn't relative to how most buyers would use it. I do agree the mount flexibility is nice to apply to photographers coming from different systems.
@@robhallphoto well for me anyway the Profoto mount was the clincher. I bought the AD400Pro based on that and it's modeling lamp. I have a pretty extensive Profoto Acute system already. Being able to adapt the Godox to it is huge. So for Profoto users it is apples to apples. I don't see how adapting it bottlenecks it's design in fact the opposite. It gives you many options to be able to use a vast array of light modifiers. The Broncolor and Profoto modifiers produce some unique light. The Bowens modifiers are ok but are limited in range. Though if you are just using a softbox or umbrella none of it really matters then.
I just saw you are from Michigan. I started out there assisting in car studios back in 97.
Hi Rob, awesome video. Do you know if an AD 400 Pro manual (non-ttl) flash is coming out soon? Have you heard anything?
I haven't heard anything. It would likely be an Adorama move, not a Godox move, just like the Xplor 600 Pro Manual.
$700 vs $1700 That's the most dramatic difference.... I can buy 2 ad400 and a set of modifiers for the same price as one b10
Joedy Barnes correct , but if you have an important, multi day shoot outside the USA you will not have anyone to support you. That is why the reviews say : buy from a reputable dealer, I will go further and say : but then from Adorama (safe) and possible B&H
@@jaimeduncan6167 ....... ??
Hey Robert, I'm a Profoto user and a very disappointed one. I'm considering switching to Godox but one of the things that concern me is not being able to use it plugged in the outlet because often I shoot products too and would like that ability. That's pretty much the only reason I'm still considering switching and haven't done it yet. What would be the solution for that since you mentioned apparently the ac adapter is not available?
Thank you so much!
Ad600 pro instead? Extra batteries?
Those would really be the only solutions as of now, until the AC adapter is released.
@@robhallphoto Can you shoot the Ad600 plugged in with the batteries or would you have to have an adapter too?
Just bought 3 units of the 600pro non ttl from adorama, got them today, none of the batteries are charging =/ Hope them can exchange them quickly. I was really excited about moving from profoto to godox but that was a very bad start. Hope it works out alright at the end.
Would be fun to see with the OCF Magnum reflector on the B10
Nice video... Now will we get a real and true godox ad600 pro vs the ad400 pro?
I've covered their power/size difference, but given their feature set and light quality is so similar I don't see a reason to go more in depth. Any questions you think are unanswered?
just wondering... I know this isn't about the AD600 Pro, but you mentioned that the AD400 Pro's modeling lamp isn't good, but what about the AD600 Pro? I currently have the base model AD600BM and I've been happy with it, but my only gripe would be the useless modeling lamp, if the AD600 Pro's lamp is usable, then I'm seriously considering it. (I know it'll be useless outdoors, but I still do a lot of indoor studio portraits and it's nice to be able to see how the light is going to land BEFORE taking the shot)
Well, im saying good as in quality of light. That wouldn't matter for portraits where you're still using the flash to light the portrait. And I say they are useless because they aren't bright enough for the location work that they are designed for. In a dark studio they'll both have enough light for focusing at close distances though.
Ken Cheng it’s good for working in a studio and see where the light fall. The Profoto is an hybrid solution: you can use it for thanking a short video for example.
Thanks Rob............
You're welcome!
Can the godox be used as a continuous videolight as well?
Yes
Better to buy a special light for dhooting video (led lights)
I love the clean design of the B10, but the value of the Godox cannot be denied.
Absolutely looks great and I think the "canister" shape is great for packing up in smaller kits. But, definitely hard to justify when the performance is so close.
It looks much better but the issue is profoto is ridiculously overpriced. Well, I guess they are priced ok for their target market but we will see if they are going to try and expand since godox is becoming so prominent
@@robhallphoto this is an iphone vs a mid-range android device. Both do similar things, bit Profoto is just more user friendly. I just shot 2 weeks of solid back to back location shoots in all kinds of weather and conditions. All I can say is that this small form factor of B10s ( I had 3 with me ) was a life savior. The ease of use and the bluetooth capability was almost like cheating. It was an amazing experience. Yes - these are expensive. But I can absolutely justify the price because of these reasons above
My favorite part of this review 11:17.
XD. The proud nod.
Would love to see you compare the Godox gear vs Broncolor to venture away from the Profoto comparison. Your reviews and comparisons are great, but how about a bit more variety?
Done the Siros 800L already and they don't have any other battery-powered lines, or anything "in class" with the smaller Godox strobes.
Since Broncolor use HS instead of HSS, the Broncolor will remain at full power up to 1/8000 shutter speed. Godox will lose badly in these similar test.
@@4KLive Thanks for that info. Definitely wasn't aware. That would be a great comparison. Splitting hairs with reviews of similar products is great, but going from one level, to a whole different level to compare the why products like this differ.
I have the B10 and love it. I think the ease of use, reliability, and support of this system make it worth the price. They also have a lot more specialist modifiers than Godox with a greater ability to rent additional lights and modifiers should you need them. I also find that Profoto doesn’t misfire as much. But the B10 for me is great as a hybrid shooter because I can use it for on the go location work for video or photo. The bi-color LED is one of my favorite things about it because I can match to the ambient light at venues. I’ve tried both systems and think they are both compelling for different reasons.
Has any one experience issues with the batteries of the ad400pro or 600 line? They stop charging. I had to return 3 units and return to older units.
Yes that happened to one of my batteries for AD600pro...
Sent an AD600Pro battery back to Adorama as well, had minimal use in less than a month!
Adorama confirm that there is a serious problem with the 600pro Funny none of the vloggers are reporting this issue.
I haven't experienced it myself and have 3 600 Pros (haven't heard it at all regarding 400 Pro). I know my friend had it happen when he ordered 4. 1 of the 4 batteries was faulty right out of the box and he had it quickly replaced with Adorama.
Thanks Robert I love your work and your channel. I must say Adorama has the best customer service. They offered me a store credit or exchange. I'm still a flashpoint fan for life. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for comparing watt hours and not amp hours.
Sory before becoz i dont mean for being rude..do you have a problem with a certain brand(in this case profoto)?i dont own both product but i think althought they have their own plus minus..they are both great product..it depends on how the photographer use them..sory again and great review btw 😁
I have a problem with Profoto's marketing. But as equipment, no.
I just provide reviews that focus on scientific differences so people can look past all the marketing nonsense.
Robert Hall smashes into the scene droppin truth bombs
💯💯💯
I will say this again, since this issue is a deal breaker for me, Thermal Protection. That's it.
Awesome video Rob, thank you for all the information.
They definitely need to clean that up, even if it means dropping the recycle speed. I'd like it to be user choice. A menu option where your recycle is slower but no counter, or an "overcharged" option where you can shoot faster recycles for a limited amount of time.
@@robhallphoto I agree man. Is an amazing light (godox) . Thanks for all the effort to put this together.
Vince Arredondo which one is affected ? Thanks.
@@jaimeduncan6167 all Godox line has the thermal protection feature.
@@vincearredondo thanks
Finally the truth...the b1x is about 50% more powerful than the B10. Making the AD400 very competitive.
Thanks for putting those clowns at F-Stoppers in their place. I'm no expert but watching their videos is like watching fanboy videos.
There is that saying that tech-journalists went to journalism because they lack the skills and knowledge to go into the industry or into research. I mean, the difference between amps and watts? FStoppers, really?
Why in the earth would anyone go for the Profoto B10 while it costs 4 times the Godox AD400 pro ?! I don’t see anything that could make the photographs you take better with the Profoto B10. Am I missing something here ?
My head is spinning with all of these stats. I need to watch it again. Great work as always Rob.
Thank you Brian!
The AC adapter is due mid May (allegedly).
My review of the Godox was that we used for a couple weeks and it wasn’t reliable at all so switched to b10 and no problems... and can use my mods since use D1’s in studio
What issues did you have?
I've shot Godox with Canon for years. Very reliable, I switched to Sony, and I had a high misfire rate. I turned off the EFCS, and my issues went away. Very satisfied with the system.
I used Godox Xpro trigger and AD600 flawlwssly with my Canon 5DII, but got a lot of misfires once I changed to Sony. In the end, I changed the setting in the trigger to short range and I haven't had a misfire since.
Just a month after you made this video, the B10 plus was announced, with more power and from what I can tell a much more similar size. I enjoy your videos, but they seem to be pretty outdated. Now even the "X" variants of the B10 exist. So does Godox have anything that compares these days except for the fact that they're cheaper? Would love your thoughts.
The Profoto Defence Force are here I see
Why was the B10 compared to the AD400 Pro instead of the B10 Plus? 🤔
Cause the B10 plus didn't exist yet.🤔
Ahh okay. Got it. 👍
Of course I was one of the people you were debating with about the reflector....
That's perfectly fine! Debates get us answers.
I seriously do not know why anybody would buy Profoto. It’s a good thing for Profoto that people do, but...
I would just because most of the studios I now have them.
Godox really wasn’t doing much until the past 3 years. Profoto has been around a long time, so you can rent modifiers and lights at almost any rental house. The support is also a lot better. I also think they are much easier to use and have more modifiers to choose from. There are a lot of reasons, but they may not be enough for some people. Either way, I think these are the only two lighting brands in the game right now doing anything interesting.
What about long term, heavy use reliability? Read my other comment. Profoto has a long term reputation off reliable service in difficult situations. Godox does NOT!
@@cavebeastdemon3631 Correct - if you genuinely make money and use equipment week in week out you need reliability more than everything. I work with people who use Profoto this is a major reason they use it. If your a casual or part time photographer who doesn't move his or her equipment around a lot Id buy Godox.
@@cavebeastdemon3631 Here's one for you. Local photographer had his Profoto B2 kit start smoking because of a small internal fire on the head during outdoor use. Idk the warranty length on Profoto gear but "spontaneous fire" should probably be covered for a while. Profoto offered no resolution to repair nor offer any deal on a replacement. His only option was to buy another at full price. He switched lighting brands at that point. Additionally, one need only look at the Profoto groups for a long list of QA issues on their new A1 to see Profoto is far from infallible when it comes to durability.
Let's stop talking about F-Stoppers. I have seen a couple things from them that photographically were nice, but the moment they start teaching, try to get nerdy, they remind me of Laurel and Hardy. Always bumbling around.
i feel like they are trying to sell something when it comes to products.
@@RayValdezPhotography- your feeling is yours, I respect that. I just see a lot of ignorance. People can be consciously competent or incompetent, or not be aware of either. In their case my feeling is of incompetence they for the most part are not aware of.
@@jpdj2715 They and a lot of others online dont come off as scientific and factual when it comes to photography. I see a lot of opinion and guessing. I been checking out the robert hall dude. he seems legit using documentation and numbers. Also the best in terms of science , photography, and using examples is on the profoto page. The guys Anders and David Bicho. Even though they are on profoto page, they dont come off as salesmen. they simply tell you how things work factually and in depth.
@@RayValdezPhotography- Agreed. And, yes, Robert does a good job. True, the Profoto content by real commercial pros is very good. That said, look for broncolor content too. Their in-house photographers and collaborations create really good work.
If you ever rent a Broncolor Siros L400, would love to see a video compared to a ad400 PRO
I was wondering this same thing
What about long term, heavy use reliability. This is much more important than most people think (for instance, if you do multiple $10,000+ photo shoots) and maybe account for the much higher price of Profoto. I don't know if Profoto uses better materials and or construction because no one ever tests that (that I know of). A Chinese wrench and a Snap-On wrench will both turn bolts but if the Chinese wrench breaks in the middle of a job (the Snap-On won't) you are getting paid a lot of money to do, it is not worth the cheaper price! I say this because usually (not always) *you get what you pay for*.
It would take several scientifically designed torture tests and /or disassembly and material / construction identification of both lights to determine this. Proclaiming the Godox a better deal just based on performance is NOT a true statement!
That being said; I will probably be buying some Godox lights because I can afford them and they are good enough for me right now! That still doesn't mean they are just as good or better than Profoto!
First, like you said it takes scientific stress tests and the destruction of expensive light to come to a conclusion. So, who exactly is going to be able to afford that type of test? I'm certainly not able.
Second, using a scientific test to quantify the anecdotal situations that occur causing people to damage lights? Even if you determine one is stronger materials with percentages, does that even translate to real world experience?
Regardless if you were able to come to a conclusion you get no information as to how that translates to a specific photographer.
Ultimately, we're left with what I said. The Profoto feels denser and they have global support should an issue arise, both pros in terms of long term durability (at least we think).
Also, I myself am not worried about long term durability due to the speed of technology advancing. How many years are we from cameras incorporating the global shutter, at which point you would need a new light with new systems on board to sync at all shutter speeds without HSS.
How many years are we away from LED brightness efficiency quadrupling and actually being able to use LED flash for balancing outdoors?
How long before HS timing makes HSS irrelevant?
All those things are possible in our near future and will require new equipment to utilize. I feel like the days of needing a light to last 20 years are gone.
Lastly, I've used AD200s for some 400+ shoots since getting less than 2 years ago. They have sat in the soft exterior pouch of light stand bag, completely unprotected from daily bumps and bruises. They have blown over onto grass, slipped out of my hand, rattled around in a car daily, smacked doorways, etc. And still, they all work. While I constantly give Profoto build quality points in my videos, I've yet to have an AD200 die on me despite an extremely high volume of use. The one time one broke after it was slammed into the ground from 10 feet high directly onto the display. Repair was $80. If the Profoto B10 were to have survived that unscathed (which I doubt, and which would have cost more money to repair), we're talking more than 15 examples of that before I'd "break even" on the additional investment of the Profoto.
Good point to raise concerning the battery reliability issues found in the AD600Pro line at least. Several users (including myself) have had to return the battery (~$180!) for replacement to Adorama after minimal use - it just stopped charging!?! I presume that may happen to any battery, but this seems to be a QC issue with Godox - hence it’s important to have a support system from the vendor (Profoto) or retailer (eg Adorama) as Rob mentioned.
12:40 customer support service
14:00 PSA for Godox batteries, perhaps that is the issue for the batteries
All I can say as a user of profoto. My B1s are still good. I got them when they came out like in 2014. I used them for hundreds of shoots. The only issue I have is that the battery life on at least one has less charge but that is a known issue with physics rechargeable batteries. They have good customer service though. You can call them and ask questions and they know their shit. Kinda like canon.
Fully agree the B10 is super compelling because of its size, support and “good power” not because it Max power is equivalent to other bigger solutions. The light quality is far better than a speed light and forward enough to compensate for the lack of power. There is no reason to exaggerate.
the B10 is a 250ws light and the AD400 is a 400ws light. of course the Godox is going to be more powerful. why wouldn't you compare it to the B10 plus which is closer in power at 500ws?
I couldn't compare the B10 Plus to the AD400 Pro in this video because the B10 plus didn't exist yet.
Maybe the profoto is a lot more Sustainable. Also regarding the people who Worked for it. Cheap cheap is not always good for our world.
Godox light system is much better than so expensive Profoto. The batteries on the Profotos are very faulty.
I'm am furst
@zazismrx you're fun at parties. I can tell.
This video contains some good information, but your technical explanation of the battery capacity is not correct.
It is correct to measure a battery capacity in terms of amp-hrs. A battery stores a charge separation, and amp-hrs is a measure of charge. Voltage is a measure of a potential energy difference. However, this is not a good indicator of the capacity of the battery. In fact, you can change the configuration of a set of batteries to give high or low voltages without changing the capacity of the batteries. For example, batteries wired in series versus parallel. Thus voltage is not a measure of the capacity of a battery.
I think you are misinterpreting the total energy output in the form of light, with the capacity of the battery. This may be a useful way of looking at the performance of the light as a whole, but it is certainly not a good way to measure the capacity of the battery. The efficiency of the strobe (i.e. the fraction of stored potential energy that is converted into light) is a big and important factor in such an evaluation.
In the end it all boils down to - do you really want to use something as ugly, as Godox is? AD200 anyone? Oh my, how could anyone "design" something like that? So far, we are with Elinchroms. Looking at Profotos, using some Godox stuff, but really - I need to like the stuff I am using, hence don't want to base my decision upon the specsheets and price only.
In the end, that's the worst justification I've ever read for choosing a light. The AD200's design is incredible, for its performance / size, modularity, versatility. To write all that off for how it looks (which, I feel like isn't even ugly) is terrible judgement.
@@robhallphoto I base my judgements on multiple factors and the design is as much important to me, as the product stability and the whole product range ecosystem and interoperability. I have built our studio bottom-up, used even Godox before general public started to preach to them many years ago. Then I have settled up on Elinchrom ecosystem to start with. The only mantra I can hear nowadays mostly is - I can buy xy of this, for the price of that, most of the time irrespective of other factors. If you don't find AD200 being a terrible design, then whatever :-)
im gonna go out on a limb here..... i havent even watched the video yet but im gonna bet RHP recommends the godox... because he's sponsored by godox. nothing that comes from his mouth is unbiased in anyway shape and form.
Dang, wrong 3 times in one comment, that's impressive!