NIce build. You'll have better results on the compound curves (curves that curve in two directions at the same time, like on the nose area) if you use "strip planking". If you aren't familiar, it's where you use long, narrow strips to sheet a surface. The strips are only bent in one direction, but since they are narrow the gap between the bulkheads and the inside surface of the strips is less. There will be an angle change between each strip, but it's less of an angle. After the strip planking is done, you can sand the outside smooth to get a nice compound curve. This would require removing the paper from both sides of the foam, otherwise it won't bend as easily, and there's lots more glue joints. Since you'll want sand the joints after you're done sheeting (assuming you do, I guess you could leave the paper on the outside and not worry about sanding but the surface will conform better the the contours of the bulkheads), use a sandable glue like white or brown aliphatic resin. Elmer's brown Carpenter Glue is sandable, while the white School Glue isn't sandable as much. Yes it takes longer to dry and you almost need to use pins to align the foam strips as they drive, but you can get a fairly smooth surface with some sanding. You'll need to use filler paste to get a nicer surface, and in the end you'll need to cover the foam with something if you're after a nice surface finish (I recall you said you were going to cover it with carbon fiber). Good luck!
Thank you very much for the input! I am familiar with the strip method, I use my own method of cutting in certain areas to follow the curve a filler will be applied to smooth out the finish before the carbon fiber is applied so this isn't the final foam finish, I haven't used the strip method cause it takes more time and you might not have noticed but this garage is extremely hot to work in right now and is very exhausting I can only be there in small amounts at a time, I might get some kind of fan to cool me down, I get what your saying though and thank you for the tips I'll definitely take them into consideration.🙂🙂🙂💯
@@adelaseeri768 that's a nice price. What are you going to do for structure inside of it once you use carbon fiber to make the shell? Will that be strong enough on it's own to hold itself up, or will you need to have some kind of rigid structural runner going the length? Once they get that big things are different from what I'm used to building. I've seen ramyrc with his big c17 and it is just carbon fiber, but he did it with a mold that he made I think, then put ply ribs in it.
@@dentonator2010 The carbon fiber shell on its own isn't enough, I'm going to use big diameter carbon fiber tubes that I make myself, I started making them and they are very strong and lightweight, might use ply doublers in some spots but they are heavy so we'll see when we get there.
@@adelaseeri768 are you doing rolled prepreg for the tubes or wound tow? How will you connect the tubes to the skin? Will you take out the foam board ribs and longerons and put in some ply bulkhead with place for the tubes?
@@dentonator2010 not doing prepreg yet just experimenting with wrapping cardboard tubes with great results, I will most probably go the prepreg route, as for the foam ribs they are very very lightweight, I can lift the longest section with one finger and hold it no issues I'm most likely going to leave it all in place cause I'll have 2 carbon fiber tubes that will be right in the center, the most rear and forward center pieces will be covered in carbon fiber, the support tubes will join to the most rear board run along the middle and will join with the forward board and shell, the way I'm building it I'll likely not need ply doublers and they are heavy.
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NIce build. You'll have better results on the compound curves (curves that curve in two directions at the same time, like on the nose area) if you use "strip planking". If you aren't familiar, it's where you use long, narrow strips to sheet a surface. The strips are only bent in one direction, but since they are narrow the gap between the bulkheads and the inside surface of the strips is less. There will be an angle change between each strip, but it's less of an angle. After the strip planking is done, you can sand the outside smooth to get a nice compound curve. This would require removing the paper from both sides of the foam, otherwise it won't bend as easily, and there's lots more glue joints. Since you'll want sand the joints after you're done sheeting (assuming you do, I guess you could leave the paper on the outside and not worry about sanding but the surface will conform better the the contours of the bulkheads), use a sandable glue like white or brown aliphatic resin. Elmer's brown Carpenter Glue is sandable, while the white School Glue isn't sandable as much. Yes it takes longer to dry and you almost need to use pins to align the foam strips as they drive, but you can get a fairly smooth surface with some sanding. You'll need to use filler paste to get a nicer surface, and in the end you'll need to cover the foam with something if you're after a nice surface finish (I recall you said you were going to cover it with carbon fiber).
Good luck!
Thank you very much for the input! I am familiar with the strip method, I use my own method of cutting in certain areas to follow the curve a filler will be applied to smooth out the finish before the carbon fiber is applied so this isn't the final foam finish, I haven't used the strip method cause it takes more time and you might not have noticed but this garage is extremely hot to work in right now and is very exhausting I can only be there in small amounts at a time, I might get some kind of fan to cool me down, I get what your saying though and thank you for the tips I'll definitely take them into consideration.🙂🙂🙂💯
👌👌👌👌
Are you using hot glue to put the skin on there? What kind of material is the skin?
@@dentonator2010 yes it's foam board from the dollar tree store, 1.25 dollars per board.
@@adelaseeri768 that's a nice price. What are you going to do for structure inside of it once you use carbon fiber to make the shell? Will that be strong enough on it's own to hold itself up, or will you need to have some kind of rigid structural runner going the length? Once they get that big things are different from what I'm used to building. I've seen ramyrc with his big c17 and it is just carbon fiber, but he did it with a mold that he made I think, then put ply ribs in it.
@@dentonator2010 The carbon fiber shell on its own isn't enough, I'm going to use big diameter carbon fiber tubes that I make myself, I started making them and they are very strong and lightweight, might use ply doublers in some spots but they are heavy so we'll see when we get there.
@@adelaseeri768 are you doing rolled prepreg for the tubes or wound tow?
How will you connect the tubes to the skin? Will you take out the foam board ribs and longerons and put in some ply bulkhead with place for the tubes?
@@dentonator2010 not doing prepreg yet just experimenting with wrapping cardboard tubes with great results, I will most probably go the prepreg route, as for the foam ribs they are very very lightweight, I can lift the longest section with one finger and hold it no issues I'm most likely going to leave it all in place cause I'll have 2 carbon fiber tubes that will be right in the center, the most rear and forward center pieces will be covered in carbon fiber, the support tubes will join to the most rear board run along the middle and will join with the forward board and shell, the way I'm building it I'll likely not need ply doublers and they are heavy.