Lack of fruit set can occur, if you have a non-self-pollinating variety. Even self-pollinating fruit trees will increase production with cross-pollination by a different variety. So graft a pollinator on your fruit tree for better yields. Table of contents: 1. Why do you need a pollinator? - 0:08 2. Grafting a Pollinator - 0:53 3. Grafting results - 7:08 4. Pollination Groups - 4:04 Be sure to check my other technique specific grafting videos, like this one: Best Grafting Techniques | WHICH Grafting Technique should I CHOOSE, when grafting fruit trees? - th-cam.com/video/tFWvZzMv2Io/w-d-xo.html **************************************************************** Share the video and subscribe to help the channel grow - th-cam.com/video/j_UBj11KMYQ/w-d-xo.html **************************************************************** Thanks for watching - If you have any questions, be sure to leave me a comment and I will try to reply.
Its not recommended, as the tree is directing is resources to fruit production. Nevertheless, if you don't mind losing the crop, you can bud or patch graft, in most cases. You will have to do some aggressive summer pruning, to give the grafts a chance of developing or they might lose the competition with the other established branches, and the development of the graft might be very poor.
Yes, they are. That's one of the reasons I publish so many videos showing grafting examples on them. People have to train their grafting techniques and they will do better in more difficult varieties, after having a few successes in apples and pears.
My wife wanted an ornamental tree in the front yard, so we planted a double blooming crabapple to go with our two front yard apple trees. I will probably graft more varieties onto the apple trees next spring as this is the first year in the ground (not much branching yet). I'll probably do this for my healthy plum trees next year. The Japanese plums just aren't happy in the neutral pH soil. Debating whether to replace them with more European plums or more apples. Or Asian pears. Diversity is good, right? 😅 We're also planting flowers between the trees to attract more pollinators and predatory insects. Also has the advantage of dressing up the front yard. 🙂
Thanks for the comment. You are right, diversity is very good in an orchard, for several reasons. Regarding European plums, if you have the chill hours, go for it. From the description your yard will look amazing in the flowering season. Good luck with your trees.
Can graft sapota or mango similar to your grafting techniques? Is it alright to graft in rainy seasons can it alright for water pass through grafted area ?thank you. Your all the videos are awesome keep going.
que buenas herramientas, tenes algún video enseñándolas todas? la cartuchera para llevarlas en la cintura parece muy cómoda, es artesanal o donde puedo conseguirla?
A few crabapples *are* good eating, though since they are commonly cooked or pickled, one branch may not be enough for the kitchen. I enjoy Dolgo, and am trying Wickson and Trailman now, based on very positive reviews.
Hi, Erick. You are right. there are a few crabapples that are not bad. But, for the home orchard or garden, I find its best to graft a couple of compatible good eating varieties, that's why I recommended it.
Do you have a recommendation for pruning mastic? I remember you mentioned getting a non-tar based type in another video, but I'm having trouble finding such a product.
Olá, Ludimila. A calda bordalesa é um dos fungicidas que se podem utilizar em cultura biológica (como o enxofre), e deve ser utilizado em conjunto com boas práticas culturais preventivas (e da luta biológica, no caso dos insectos). Apesar de com o passar das décadas o cobre se poder acumular nos solos isso só acontece, de forma significativa, com intensidades de tratamento muito elevadas. Eu utilizo calda bordalesa no meu pomar, como o principal tratamento invernal.
Another great lesson. Thanks Master!👍 Btw You said you're removing parafilm when it is no longer needed. It means when if film is "no bio". Couple leafs, 10-15 cm, 2-3 months?
I usually don't bother with the parafilm as the buds break through it easily and it biodegrades as months go by. But, sometimes, even after a few months, there are some remaining strips and they turn black underneath because of accumulation of moist. In these cases those strips may turn into a breading ground for fungus, so I remove them, if that happens.
Hola, Jeronimo. No es sencillo recomendar variedades resistentes. Hay mucha influencia de las condiciones locales. Algunas variedades son resistentes al moteado y oídio, pero sufren con los pulgones. Otras resisten a los insectos, pero sufren con los hongos. Así, lo ideal es verificar las variedades que son más cultivados en cada zona. Normalmente, esas son las más resistentes y, por eso, se plantan ahí, principalmente las variedades antiguas. Muchas de las variedades modernas, son muy buenas, pero necesitan muchos cuidados y utilización de pesticidas para prevenir las enfermedades.
Hi, Jeremy. I am using a crabapple that was developed by INRA (a French National Institute for Agronomic Research), named Malus "Evereste" - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malus_%27Evereste%27 Its ideal for small gardens and orchards and it gets covered with white flowers in spring, that open from red buds. Its disease resistant and drought tolerant so, it can be left on its own most of the time, with only minimal pruning in the winter. Due to its longer flowering period its quite important to pollinate some triploid self-sterile apple cultivars I have. But there are many others that could be used for the job. Regarding distance... Although bees can travel a couple of miles in search of nectar and pollen, its best to plant your pollinator in less than a 50 feet range from the trees you want to pollinate.
The pollinator groups join varieties that flower at the same time. If you search the web you will find tables with pollination groups A, B, C, D, etc.. with some varieties in each group. The problem is there are hundreds and hundreds of different varieties, so its not so easy to build such a list and include most of them. That's why the option to use crabapple pollinators (that usually have a longer pollination period) is used, in some cases). Some nurseries, in the description of the variety, include the pollination group and that helps a lot. But, its not that difficult to choose two varieties that pollinate each other, as most overlap the flowering periods, so it would be really unlucky to choose a very early and a very late blooming variety- Check this chart for an example of a pollination chart for apples - farmingtongardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Apple-Polination-Chart-2019-01.jpg
To show that, with this technique, you don't need to do it. The bottom angled outside cut in the scion, does most of the job of starting to join the cambium layers, as it always crosses the rootstock cambium at some point.
Gosto de ver os seus filmes... Mas como não sou um águia em inglês, achava muito interessante que falasse em português, visto que passam as legendas em inglês. Agora fala inglês e legendas em inglês, não é muito lógico.
Olá, Rui. Existem legendas disponíveis em Português, Espanhol, Francês e Inglês (há quem tenha problemas de audição). Apenas tem que seleccionar a língua em que quer ver as legendas, nas opções de configuração da linha inferior (segundo ícone, à direita).
always ever ever graft your new budstick on THE THICKEST BRANCH/LATERAL....then the tree will NOT! wean it off.... and it wont lag behind other scaffolds! .... and, I have found 20cm to be an excellent! distance from main stem....thumb and pinky stretched away from each other equals 20cm. thank you.
You are quite right, Celia. And I usually do as you say. Nevertheless, sometimes, there are other reasons to graft on other branches/laterals. In multiple varieties trees, you may want to add another variety and all the other branches are already grafted. In this case, I still wanted some fruits from the original variety and the remaining branches have lots of flower buds I didn't want to lose. With adequate winter and summer pruning of the more vigorous branches its still possible to condition the tree and give a chance to the new grafts, even if they aren't on the best location. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura wish wish you could see my MASSIVE 100% SUCCESS!!! rate grafting avos! with 'approach' grafts///....seedlings in 2 litre coke bottles hung in trees and approached grafted!!!....100%!!! striking rate!...lol....
The thing about all the videos is that they demonstrate grafting in idealised circumstances. On TH-cam the buds are always fat , the root stock is vigorous and the bark is always slipping. This is not what happens Take a common scenario. One of your favourite trees is dying. That’s precisely why you want to graft. You go looking for those fat buds but all you find is new growth the diameter of spaghetti. Then you search for a rootstock , say , a sucker from an established tree. Alas, current seasons growth is 4 ft off the ground, not where you want the new tree to start Instead you bud the anemic little bud on last seasons growth. And it promptly fails. Yes, budding fat buds onto purpose grown , potted root stock is easy but it ain’t reality most of the time
You are right that when we really need to graft (to save a tree variety, for instance) the conditions are far from ideal. And I try to show it in my grafting videos (as in the video "How to save a broken tree - th-cam.com/video/FEt6-rNWtwA/w-d-xo.html). The video about lateral grafting, I also published in the channel (th-cam.com/video/4XZkXh-1dlk/w-d-xo.html), uses the most skinny scions you can find on TH-cam. They are real scions of coveted varieties I received from a friend. That was the whole point of the video. How to use less than ideal scions. And they were grafted to what I had as rootstock at the time. Another example, like grafting a thin branch on an established tree that was grafted the year before is also less than ideal, because of competition with more developed grafts that might cause it to fail - (min 8.30 of this video - th-cam.com/video/ecOwdmi6DIM/w-d-xo.html) Sure, weak buds, grafted into skinny, underdeveloped rootstocks, in the wrong season, have very few changes of succeeding, but if you have more tools in your grafting arsenal and a better understanding of the grafting process, you have a better chance of achieving the desired outcome. That why we check all these videos about grafting, even if most use ideal circumstances that we might no be able to always replicate.
Lack of fruit set can occur, if you have a non-self-pollinating variety. Even self-pollinating fruit trees will increase production with cross-pollination by a different variety. So graft a pollinator on your fruit tree for better yields.
Table of contents:
1. Why do you need a pollinator? - 0:08
2. Grafting a Pollinator - 0:53
3. Grafting results - 7:08
4. Pollination Groups - 4:04
Be sure to check my other technique specific grafting videos, like this one:
Best Grafting Techniques | WHICH Grafting Technique should I CHOOSE, when grafting fruit trees? - th-cam.com/video/tFWvZzMv2Io/w-d-xo.html
****************************************************************
Share the video and subscribe to help the channel grow - th-cam.com/video/j_UBj11KMYQ/w-d-xo.html
****************************************************************
Thanks for watching - If you have any questions, be sure to leave me a comment and I will try to reply.
Can you graft scions in the middle of summer when the trees are producing fruit?
Its not recommended, as the tree is directing is resources to fruit production. Nevertheless, if you don't mind losing the crop, you can bud or patch graft, in most cases. You will have to do some aggressive summer pruning, to give the grafts a chance of developing or they might lose the competition with the other established branches, and the development of the graft might be very poor.
Garden setup, irrigation system and what a lovely apples wow❤️❤️❤️🍎🍎🍎🍎🍎🍎🍎🍏🍏🍏
All of your videos are great. Sending good vibes from the himalayas.
Great video!
Apples are one of the easiest fruit trees to graft because they heal so fast.
Yes, they are. That's one of the reasons I publish so many videos showing grafting examples on them. People have to train their grafting techniques and they will do better in more difficult varieties, after having a few successes in apples and pears.
Clear and instructive and interesting video. Been grafting for over a year but getting varieties has been the problem.
Another great video, thanks. I’m watching every one of them.
Sir I am a Horticulture student from India...your all videos are helpful and knowledgeable....continue this great work...Thanks!
I am glad you find the videos useful. Thanks for the comment.
My wife wanted an ornamental tree in the front yard, so we planted a double blooming crabapple to go with our two front yard apple trees. I will probably graft more varieties onto the apple trees next spring as this is the first year in the ground (not much branching yet). I'll probably do this for my healthy plum trees next year. The Japanese plums just aren't happy in the neutral pH soil. Debating whether to replace them with more European plums or more apples. Or Asian pears. Diversity is good, right? 😅
We're also planting flowers between the trees to attract more pollinators and predatory insects. Also has the advantage of dressing up the front yard. 🙂
Thanks for the comment. You are right, diversity is very good in an orchard, for several reasons. Regarding European plums, if you have the chill hours, go for it. From the description your yard will look amazing in the flowering season. Good luck with your trees.
Wow, I am learning so much watching this channel. I can't wait to start grafting when I get my new property!
Glad you are enjoying the videos. Thanks for the comment.
same here. i learn a lots about cambium contact. i need to apply this garfting method to graft durian tree
I recognized your method of inoculation as the best. Because he's a university 👍🤝🤝🤝
Can graft sapota or mango similar to your grafting techniques? Is it alright to graft in rainy seasons can it alright for water pass through grafted area ?thank you. Your all the videos are awesome keep going.
Gracias por compartir tu sabiduría 👏👏👏👏👏👏 tus vídeos son muy ilustrativos 👍
Wow, another super high quality video. Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comment.
You Sir are a very good teacher...Thanks
Great video, thx
Thanks💖
Thank you very much. It was useful.
que buenas herramientas, tenes algún video enseñándolas todas? la cartuchera para llevarlas en la cintura parece muy cómoda, es artesanal o donde puedo conseguirla?
vc manja demais sacadura!! fenomeno mano!!! to aqui sempre acompanhando tudo kkkk comprei o clonex pra fazer umas estacas!!!
Merci.
Thanks for the information on the video Sir .I do have a question. If you can help me , can we graft Cydonia oblonga on an apple ber tree ?
Me encantan tus videos. un fuerte abrazo.
Muchas gracias, Tino. Un saludo.
A few crabapples *are* good eating, though since they are commonly cooked or pickled, one branch may not be enough for the kitchen. I enjoy Dolgo, and am trying Wickson and Trailman now, based on very positive reviews.
Hi, Erick. You are right. there are a few crabapples that are not bad. But, for the home orchard or garden, I find its best to graft a couple of compatible good eating varieties, that's why I recommended it.
As always an excelent video from the Guru of Grafting 😉
Muito obrigado
Thanks for the nice comment. Don't know about the guru part, though 😊. Just sharing my experiences.
@@JSacadura just kidding 🤗
Was thinking today that you could easily fill up a workshop for grafting or pruning. I'd sign up 👌
Maybe when I retire (in a few years). I might just do something like that, to keep busy and interact with people.
Great information, as always. Thank you!
Thanks for watching!
can you please the equipment requires for grafting - rubber, foil, plastic what type are these to used? thank you
Do you have a recommendation for pruning mastic? I remember you mentioned getting a non-tar based type in another video, but I'm having trouble finding such a product.
Great video as usual!👏👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
👍good job, very nicely explained.
Thank you, 🙂. Thanks for the comment.
Muito interessante. Obrigado.
Great video
I have two apple tree how do i know the variety of each apple tree
👌 Muito Obrigado!
Olá jsacadura queria saber se posso usar calda bordalesa em um cultivo orgânico de maçã.
Olá, Ludimila. A calda bordalesa é um dos fungicidas que se podem utilizar em cultura biológica (como o enxofre), e deve ser utilizado em conjunto com boas práticas culturais preventivas (e da luta biológica, no caso dos insectos). Apesar de com o passar das décadas o cobre se poder acumular nos solos isso só acontece, de forma significativa, com intensidades de tratamento muito elevadas. Eu utilizo calda bordalesa no meu pomar, como o principal tratamento invernal.
Can you do in july and august also
A very good video on grafting can you make a video on grafting or budding Jack fruit plant
Sorry. Jack fruit plants can't grow in my area.
Je vais essayer sur rosier es que ça marche merci
Привет. Для чего нужкн шланг на деревьях?
What is the best pollinators in indian region
Awesome 👏
Thanks for the comment and the support.
Another great lesson. Thanks Master!👍
Btw You said you're removing parafilm when it is no longer needed. It means when if film is "no bio". Couple leafs, 10-15 cm, 2-3 months?
I usually don't bother with the parafilm as the buds break through it easily and it biodegrades as months go by. But, sometimes, even after a few months, there are some remaining strips and they turn black underneath because of accumulation of moist. In these cases those strips may turn into a breading ground for fungus, so I remove them, if that happens.
@@JSacadura
👍
Hi, may you instruct where to get( buy) the fruit tree scions? I live in North ca. Need Apple, cherry, loquat..and more.
OK mais en septembre le greffon doit il être couvert pour l hiver merci
Que variedades de manzanos son mas resistentes a las enfermedades
Gracias.
Saludos
Hola, Jeronimo. No es sencillo recomendar variedades resistentes. Hay mucha influencia de las condiciones locales. Algunas variedades son resistentes al moteado y oídio, pero sufren con los pulgones. Otras resisten a los insectos, pero sufren con los hongos. Así, lo ideal es verificar las variedades que son más cultivados en cada zona. Normalmente, esas son las más resistentes y, por eso, se plantan ahí, principalmente las variedades antiguas. Muchas de las variedades modernas, son muy buenas, pero necesitan muchos cuidados y utilización de pesticidas para prevenir las enfermedades.
@@JSacadura gracias por es cribir en castellano los videos en castellano por favor aprendo muchísimo 👏👏👏👏 gracias
🌳👍
What crabapple varieties are used for pollination and how far away can a crabapple tree be from the eating varieties to successfully cross-pollinate?
Hi, Jeremy. I am using a crabapple that was developed by INRA (a French National Institute for Agronomic Research), named Malus "Evereste" - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Malus_%27Evereste%27
Its ideal for small gardens and orchards and it gets covered with white flowers in spring, that open from red buds. Its disease resistant and drought tolerant so, it can be left on its own most of the time, with only minimal pruning in the winter. Due to its longer flowering period its quite important to pollinate some triploid self-sterile apple cultivars I have. But there are many others that could be used for the job.
Regarding distance... Although bees can travel a couple of miles in search of nectar and pollen, its best to plant your pollinator in less than a 50 feet range from the trees you want to pollinate.
can u give more color on pollinator group n how to choose best polinator for some variety. warm regards from stuttgart.
The pollinator groups join varieties that flower at the same time. If you search the web you will find tables with pollination groups A, B, C, D, etc.. with some varieties in each group. The problem is there are hundreds and hundreds of different varieties, so its not so easy to build such a list and include most of them. That's why the option to use crabapple pollinators (that usually have a longer pollination period) is used, in some cases). Some nurseries, in the description of the variety, include the pollination group and that helps a lot. But, its not that difficult to choose two varieties that pollinate each other, as most overlap the flowering periods, so it would be really unlucky to choose a very early and a very late blooming variety- Check this chart for an example of a pollination chart for apples - farmingtongardens.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Apple-Polination-Chart-2019-01.jpg
@@JSacadura thank u very much.
What is the "mud" you put after you graft the branch? Is that anti fungi or what? Can we use a root hormon mud?
Its a resin based pruning mastic. Just another way of covering and protecting the graft area.
👏👏👏
Why did you not align the cambium layer in the first graft?
To show that, with this technique, you don't need to do it. The bottom angled outside cut in the scion, does most of the job of starting to join the cambium layers, as it always crosses the rootstock cambium at some point.
Gosto de ver os seus filmes...
Mas como não sou um águia em inglês, achava muito interessante que falasse em português, visto que passam as legendas em inglês. Agora fala inglês e legendas em inglês, não é muito lógico.
Olá, Rui. Existem legendas disponíveis em Português, Espanhol, Francês e Inglês (há quem tenha problemas de audição). Apenas tem que seleccionar a língua em que quer ver as legendas, nas opções de configuração da linha inferior (segundo ícone, à direita).
@@JSacadura Obrigado pela atenção. Queria-lhe pedir uma informação (se possível). Onde posso comprar parafilm?
Hi
anyway to restore a dried out graft ?
I am afraid not, Vrinda. When the tissues dry out they are essentially dead.
👏👏👏👏👏👍🇪🇸
الكتابة او الشرح بالفرنسية الذي جعلتموه في الفديو يحجب المشاهدة ولهاذا يجب عليكم في الفديوهات القادمة ان تكون بدون كتابة وشكرا
👍💞🌍👏
always ever ever graft your new budstick on THE THICKEST BRANCH/LATERAL....then the tree will NOT! wean it off.... and it wont lag behind other scaffolds! .... and, I have found 20cm to be an excellent! distance from main stem....thumb and pinky stretched away from each other equals 20cm. thank you.
You are quite right, Celia. And I usually do as you say. Nevertheless, sometimes, there are other reasons to graft on other branches/laterals. In multiple varieties trees, you may want to add another variety and all the other branches are already grafted. In this case, I still wanted some fruits from the original variety and the remaining branches have lots of flower buds I didn't want to lose.
With adequate winter and summer pruning of the more vigorous branches its still possible to condition the tree and give a chance to the new grafts, even if they aren't on the best location. Thanks for the comment.
@@JSacadura wish wish you could see my MASSIVE 100% SUCCESS!!! rate grafting avos! with 'approach' grafts///....seedlings in 2 litre coke bottles hung in trees and approached grafted!!!....100%!!! striking rate!...lol....
Approach grafting is quite useful in some situations. I am glad you are having such an excellent rate with your grafts.
سلام. چه. فصلی است.
انجیر. هم. به همین. طریق شدنیست💐💐💐💐💐💐💐🙏🙏🙏
I want a “…or the graft will fail” T-shirt
The thing about all the videos is that they demonstrate grafting in idealised circumstances. On TH-cam the buds are always fat , the root stock is vigorous and the bark is always slipping.
This is not what happens Take a common scenario. One of your favourite trees is dying. That’s precisely why you want to graft. You go looking for those fat buds but all you find is new growth the diameter of spaghetti. Then you search for a rootstock , say , a sucker from an established tree. Alas, current seasons growth is 4 ft off the ground, not where you want the new tree to start Instead you bud the anemic little bud on last seasons growth. And it promptly fails.
Yes, budding fat buds onto purpose grown , potted root stock is easy but it ain’t reality most of the time
You are right that when we really need to graft (to save a tree variety, for instance) the conditions are far from ideal. And I try to show it in my grafting videos (as in the video "How to save a broken tree - th-cam.com/video/FEt6-rNWtwA/w-d-xo.html). The video about lateral grafting, I also published in the channel (th-cam.com/video/4XZkXh-1dlk/w-d-xo.html), uses the most skinny scions you can find on TH-cam. They are real scions of coveted varieties I received from a friend. That was the whole point of the video. How to use less than ideal scions. And they were grafted to what I had as rootstock at the time.
Another example, like grafting a thin branch on an established tree that was grafted the year before is also less than ideal, because of competition with more developed grafts that might cause it to fail - (min 8.30 of this video - th-cam.com/video/ecOwdmi6DIM/w-d-xo.html)
Sure, weak buds, grafted into skinny, underdeveloped rootstocks, in the wrong season, have very few changes of succeeding, but if you have more tools in your grafting arsenal and a better understanding of the grafting process, you have a better chance of achieving the desired outcome. That why we check all these videos about grafting, even if most use ideal circumstances that we might no be able to always replicate.
@@JSacadura Thank you. I find all your videos of great utility and
don’t wish to impugn them
J