Dude! This fixed my washer totally! I had tried so many different fixes from the Internet. But this one addressed the issue completely and it was so easy to do. Thank you for posting this!
This Kenmore and the Whirlpool Cabrios and the like are a headache, their biggest problem is the tub seal that gets damaged very quickly, leaks water and damages the bearing and everything rusts.
If anyone's curious, this also works on Fisher and Paykel machines (which these models are based off of). Also, the basket does not raise during acceleration, only when the basket has water in it. The basket floats when water fills the tub and moves freely (not attached to the shaft) whilst the agitator/washplate remains permanantly attached at all times. During spin cycles the basket seats itself to the shaft via a gear cutout in the bottom of the basket. That is why the basket doesn't raise up during acceleration.
For anyone that is searching for a violent shaking, you replaced the shaft, bearings seal and suspension rods, you even tried to stifling up the rods, nope it still UL bad. Check that first drive gear on the upper shaft beneath the agitator, mine was smoothed out whitch caused a wrap in the that bear so when the water drained and engaged that gear to go into spin it could never self dampen just go crazy. The basket is designed to float up and disengage the basket 6 bolt first gear from the second shaft gear, hence agitation while the basket remains relatively still . My shaft was even worn at the lower spline which created a permanent wobble especially when I replaced the bearings and shaft . I replaced those because of load grinding nosed that are now gone, I never really noticed the lower gear wear. So when this things goes out of whack determine by inspection the basket two gears, the rods, tps stator , bearings shaft , seal , machine level, everything that effects the spin. Mine was , it never looked wable free or smooth even when just doing a hand generated free spin, hence permanent vice induced by the spin and not able to correct because the rods are worn, I believe this would be when it spins and the faster it attempts the less it can dampen with worn rods
But how do you get the middle part off - in your video it was already off. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I can’t seem to figure out how to get it off
Yeah I did this, it didn't work.mine was coding a f51(rotation position sensor) after that a code 70( not disengaging like yours.The shaft on mine wasn't rusted. My bearing seem to be good, my basket was free sliding. Good info though.
Dude! This fixed my washer totally! I had tried so many different fixes from the Internet. But this one addressed the issue completely and it was so easy to do. Thank you for posting this!
This Kenmore and the Whirlpool Cabrios and the like are a headache, their biggest problem is the tub seal that gets damaged very quickly, leaks water and damages the bearing and everything rusts.
If anyone's curious, this also works on Fisher and Paykel machines (which these models are based off of). Also, the basket does not raise during acceleration, only when the basket has water in it. The basket floats when water fills the tub and moves freely (not attached to the shaft) whilst the agitator/washplate remains permanantly attached at all times. During spin cycles the basket seats itself to the shaft via a gear cutout in the bottom of the basket. That is why the basket doesn't raise up during acceleration.
For anyone that is searching for a violent shaking, you replaced the shaft, bearings seal and suspension rods, you even tried to stifling up the rods, nope it still UL bad. Check that first drive gear on the upper shaft beneath the agitator, mine was smoothed out whitch caused a wrap in the that bear so when the water drained and engaged that gear to go into spin it could never self dampen just go crazy. The basket is designed to float up and disengage the basket 6 bolt first gear from the second shaft gear, hence agitation while the basket remains relatively still . My shaft was even worn at the lower spline which created a permanent wobble especially when I replaced the bearings and shaft . I replaced those because of load grinding nosed that are now gone, I never really noticed the lower gear wear. So when this things goes out of whack determine by inspection the basket two gears, the rods, tps stator , bearings shaft , seal , machine level, everything that effects the spin. Mine was , it never looked wable free or smooth even when just doing a hand generated free spin, hence permanent vice induced by the spin and not able to correct because the rods are worn, I believe this would be when it spins and the faster it attempts the less it can dampen with worn rods
How did you remove the top of the washer? I need to clean the tub, wax and lint build up which is leaving residue on the clothes.
But how do you get the middle part off - in your video it was already off. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I can’t seem to figure out how to get it off
what about code f5 code3
Yeah I did this, it didn't work.mine was coding a f51(rotation position sensor) after that a code 70( not disengaging like yours.The shaft on mine wasn't rusted. My bearing seem to be good, my basket was free sliding. Good info though.
I hear water sloshing around in My inner basket is that a counter weight thing or is it a problem.
It's normal - it helps to keep the basket stable during acceleration
I've read this issues of disengaging basket.
Hey, I know this is an old video, but I’m having difficulty taking the basket out, wonder if u have any tip or idea
Trying to do the same. Find the lid lock first.
We need a socket and socket wrench to remove the bolt holding the basket.
Appreciate you taking your time out to help, I tried everything and I was able to take it out with a jack lol😂
Did this solve the problem
It worked for a few days, but later the problem got worse.
Great information - horrible camera work