Fabric Cutting | Double Bespoke Commission with Kent & Haste London

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
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    After drafting the patterns for the suits being made for Kirby, the next step in this double bespoke commission from Kent & Haste is to chalk that pattern onto the fabric and then cut it out. Here, master tailor John Kent walks us through this process step by step. Finally, the fabric will be bundled together, to be sent off to the coat maker to create the fitting suit.
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    #tailoring #bespokesuits #kirbyallison
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    Drafting A Bespoke Suit Jacket | With Kent & Haste
    00:00 Introduction
    00:29 blocking the cloth
    01:14 laying the pattern
    05:07 Marking out the front panel
    12:54 the side panel
    16:36 covering the lapels
    18:49 sleeves
    21:53 adjusting the topside of the trouser pattern
    26:00 adjusting the underside trouser pattern
    29:34 marking the trousers
    33:18 jacket backseam
    35:06 finishing the chalking
    35:45 Cutting out
    37:21 the pieces
    38:40 bundling with the trimmings
    41:16 the label
    Get in touch with Kent & Haste:
    www.kenthaste.co.uk/
    @kenthastelachter
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    INSTAGRAM / kirbyallison
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ความคิดเห็น • 122

  • @rcbpiccolo
    @rcbpiccolo ปีที่แล้ว +141

    I can't get enough of everyone in this shop. By far the most enjoyable videos I've watched on this channel. And as someone who has only recently started exploring tailoring at home, I love watching these masters at work!

  • @cactusrandomfred1
    @cactusrandomfred1 ปีที่แล้ว +21

    I love John Kent. He clearly loves what he does and has found a kindred spirit in Kirby

  • @King_Harrold
    @King_Harrold ปีที่แล้ว +8

    A look on Companies House, shows Mr Kent is 75yrs of age.
    In this feature he is constantly using words such as: 'like' and 'love', about his work.
    Inspirational and I hope I am in a similar position in four decades.

  • @samsleight7572
    @samsleight7572 6 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา

    Very good craftmanship! Thanks guys.

  • @noeljordanracca723
    @noeljordanracca723 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    They applied the “ Slash and Spread” method used in Haute Couture or when drafting women’s dresses. So much information that you can learn from these Master Cutters.

  • @lukeadampaulsmith4751
    @lukeadampaulsmith4751 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I love John Kent, so enjoyable to listen and so informative. He really knows his stuff. A proper British tailor, they don't make them like this anymore. One of the best videos I've watched in a long time. 👌

  • @mikewingert5521
    @mikewingert5521 4 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Terry Haste is currently making me a pair of trousers……first fitting next Monday 5th Feb. Poor John has now retired; at 75.

  • @markbarter9717
    @markbarter9717 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    This is my absolute favourite series, Kent and haste. 🧥

  • @nj40100
    @nj40100 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Great to see that John is a great example of measure twice cut once!!

  • @anthonysnook1098
    @anthonysnook1098 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    John's the best cutter in London. QED.

  • @simoncarney9944
    @simoncarney9944 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    I caught your channel by recommendation some months ago and went through your back catalogue! The series of videos on hand made garments and shoes are absolutely riveting. The skill of the artisans you feature are amazing and I wait impatiently for the next videos on everything, such a calming interlude in today’s world. Thank you Kirby for letting us into this world.

    • @wisdomseekertv
      @wisdomseekertv ปีที่แล้ว

      Hear, hear!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Welcome aboard! Thank you for the kind words Simon. I hope you continue to enjoy the videos!

  • @danbee415
    @danbee415 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    This video is truly fantastic for people learning tailoring.

  • @richarddr1234
    @richarddr1234 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    I really love this series as well as the "suit to shoot" series. It's just fascinating to see something you can take for granted get made.

  • @paulunleashed
    @paulunleashed ปีที่แล้ว +19

    Very interesting to see this process. I thought I had a pretty good idea of what is involved from watching my mother make clothing when I was a kid. There are so many nuances and details that I think demonstrate the art that is involved. No disrespect, mom! Thank you for sharing this, Kirby!

  • @wisdomseekertv
    @wisdomseekertv ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Truely enjoyable. As a young, sometimes nagged-at-perfectionist, I see so much of myself in Mr. Kent. A true perfectionist. This is why he's one of the worlds absolute best tailors. He does not settle for "ok", he wants it as close to perfect as can be. Thank you for sharing this with us, Kent & Haste, Mr. Allison with team!

  • @chocolatejellybean2820
    @chocolatejellybean2820 ปีที่แล้ว

    love this cutter can watch him for hours. 10,000 dollar bespoke suits VS 500 dollar bespoke suits.

  • @terrykemp8131
    @terrykemp8131 ปีที่แล้ว

    It's great to see a master at work marking and handling the cloth by the great John Kent, of Kent & Haste .

  • @billkeaveney1526
    @billkeaveney1526 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks Kirby, its wonderful to see how master craftsmen and women do it.

  • @greggani4716
    @greggani4716 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    That man is brilliant and would make an excellent teacher, I could listen to him for hours and it would be a pleasure to learn!

  • @alanporter5056
    @alanporter5056 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great to view these videos especially as I knew John when we were teenagers. He was always particular about the clothes he wore and was destined to be a master tailor.

  • @joshuamccready8385
    @joshuamccready8385 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Thanks Kirby for producing another great video

  • @adambaker9550
    @adambaker9550 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I will be honest i stubbled across the original fitting film with John and Terry and didnt realise what an art tayloring is.
    I love listening to John and Terry as the experience and knowledge of a true master craftsman seaps out.
    Kirby well done on giving us a window into these different worlds.
    I think a good idea for content would be take an average Jo and take him or her on the journey.
    The suit, the shoes, the shave, the styling....finishing in a private club learning the art of the cigar....

  • @Mrockwood08
    @Mrockwood08 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    every video is so educational. I could watch these videos all day!!!

  • @kendavid4386
    @kendavid4386 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Total art form.

  • @moniquewilson4179
    @moniquewilson4179 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    No doubt Mr. John can do this in his sleep! Such a master!

  • @jirichocholaty7358
    @jirichocholaty7358 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    My mother, who is also my sewing mentor, told me as a first thing related to cutting: ,,Always cut in the same direction!"

  • @TimothyEnloe
    @TimothyEnloe ปีที่แล้ว +11

    This series is awesome! The content is amazing. The quality and frequency of your recent videos has soared. When do you and your team have time to sleep? Also, we'd love to meet your production team in an upcoming video!

  • @blazept567
    @blazept567 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    37:44 this might be silly but that's a really fancy way to do a knot.
    I absolutely love it...

  • @HighMaintenancePS
    @HighMaintenancePS ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Kirby. So enjoyable and satisfying to see an artisan of this calibre at work.

  • @noeljordanracca723
    @noeljordanracca723 ปีที่แล้ว

    So much respect to all them for their dedication to the craft of Bespoke Tailoring. I want to be like them someday and by heart be a Master Cutter.

  • @Ukedc259
    @Ukedc259 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Best vid series on the channel

  • @davey2363
    @davey2363 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The type written label is always, but always the most charming aspect of any bespoke item I’ve owned. Lovely in this ghastly day and age.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Recently purchased a vintage suit (to be featured in an upcoming video). Typewritten label marked Oct 1981. Amazing.

  • @rsf5898
    @rsf5898 9 หลายเดือนก่อน

    A wonderful video, also a vital record of the craft of a real cutter.

  • @paulascott5701
    @paulascott5701 ปีที่แล้ว

    Amazing video. Watching craftsman do what they do is so fulfilling. I am an American and they tried to force the metric system on us, they have been trying for about 50 years and we simply refuse to do it. It ain't gonna happen. Good for Mr. Kent for continuing to use inches, etc. 🙂

  • @skipgiblets
    @skipgiblets ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This really does a good job showing the blend between art and science that goes into making these.

  • @pappymcmcmc
    @pappymcmcmc ปีที่แล้ว

    This is the best video you’ve released in years. I’m far more interested in watching him work and talk us through it himself.

  • @keithgoodson9697
    @keithgoodson9697 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I have been waiting on this.......

  • @karldelavigne8134
    @karldelavigne8134 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I'd love to commission a frock coat from Mr. Kent. I think he started his career making them and there is nothing more elegant.

  • @Jayjamie
    @Jayjamie ปีที่แล้ว

    I couldn listen to this chap all day.. .

  • @walterroberts2861
    @walterroberts2861 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I Believe That We Should Be Able To Acquire This From Certain Art Supply Stores!!!!

  • @albriseno2428
    @albriseno2428 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Another great video Kirby. The time Each one took to explain what they were doing from pattern cutting to trousers and suit pattern cutting was exceptional and demonstrated the mastery each one has. Look forward to seeing the final product.

  • @owaina2765
    @owaina2765 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    John, you are the ‘Master’, that was amazing and so interesting, the amount of work and accuracy that goes into a suit. How many times have you copied a pattern onto fabric. Kirby, another amazing vid in this series, thank you.

  • @xscreamsuk
    @xscreamsuk ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Fascinating, clearly an expert.

  • @hamishharper2322
    @hamishharper2322 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you to everyone involved in this project. I love this stuff!

  • @ianwalls4976
    @ianwalls4976 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thankyou kirby for the amazing episode looking forward to the next installment 👏

  • @jtb52
    @jtb52 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Brilliant series. Hopefully you can get the three in the next kingsman film cast I feel they'll fit right in!

  • @Heyitsmestoney
    @Heyitsmestoney ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I really enjoy watching your videos!!! Thank you!!!!

  • @DecemberNames
    @DecemberNames ปีที่แล้ว

    I just watched your video and I absolutely loved it! I found your presentation to be incredibly informative and engaging. You did a great job of breaking down complex concepts into easy-to-understand terms. I also appreciated the humor and personal anecdotes that you sprinkled throughout the video. It made the content more relatable and enjoyable. You're one of the few TH-camrs who I can consistently count on to deliver high-quality content. Keep up the great work! "I outsourced this feedback to AI"

  • @Blake_1
    @Blake_1 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great as always Kirby!

  • @ibdam1
    @ibdam1 ปีที่แล้ว

    They all are true artisans. Thank you for sharing.

  • @franks.1454
    @franks.1454 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Wonderful!

  • @keithgoodson9697
    @keithgoodson9697 ปีที่แล้ว

    I could watch this team everyday. They would make a great TV series...thankyou kirby ...no speeding up lol...

  • @alexbutler1872
    @alexbutler1872 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Whens the next episode dropping wanna see these suits finished

  • @CyberWeez
    @CyberWeez ปีที่แล้ว

    Great insight from great artists! I’d love to see more of these types of vids.

  • @GrumpyYank26
    @GrumpyYank26 ปีที่แล้ว

    36:29 I imagine wanting to have a table that spins here so the cutting would be easier. Of course that would require a larger room... Or just a free standing table that the cutter could move around...

  • @arthurford829
    @arthurford829 ปีที่แล้ว

    Quite the tutorial. Recently watched Mark Rylance in The Outfit and this reminded me a lot of that film. I’ll never cut lots like this but it’s fascinating to see the level of detail associated with the craft.

  • @Reubinv
    @Reubinv ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I finish watching this video, then go and make a perfect bespoke suit

  • @torbjornwiken
    @torbjornwiken ปีที่แล้ว

    You just have to apreciate the experience and craftmanship! If anyone wonders why bespoke suits come with a steep price, just show them this video!

  • @yodin1466
    @yodin1466 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Excellent video! Very informative indeed.

  • @moniquewilson4179
    @moniquewilson4179 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Suyamba! Lol. "We have this very modern device from John and Terry's school days." 😂😂😂

  • @markroberts2378
    @markroberts2378 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Can't wait until the next 'suit to shoot " episode is uploaded!

  • @PeterYacono
    @PeterYacono ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thats one amazing jacket

  • @Azli-ku4qv
    @Azli-ku4qv 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Very good

  • @rezamarzban5562
    @rezamarzban5562 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks.

  • @martymerkler5472
    @martymerkler5472 ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant!

  • @khairt1731
    @khairt1731 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome!

  • @luximaging5624
    @luximaging5624 ปีที่แล้ว

    Suyamba coming to
    NEW YORK in October, lovely..

  • @thombennett_tailoring_66
    @thombennett_tailoring_66 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Birdseye is definitely a marmite fabric. IMHO it is the king of cloth.

  • @scottbrandon6244
    @scottbrandon6244 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Tom Mahon (The English Cut and Savile Row Tales) has a number of videos where he shows the cutting process for a suit. Plus he tells a number of good stories about the Savile Row tailor trade, especially his days at Anderson & Sheppard.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  ปีที่แล้ว

      Tom is the best! We have a great video with him as well!

  • @danp8241
    @danp8241 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Really good channel

  • @cemozd
    @cemozd ปีที่แล้ว

    Man, not related to this video but just wanted to thank you for making me switch to Astra blades for shaving! I've been using the King C. Gilette blades which has been an awful experience for me but I kept shaving with a safety razor even with a bad blade it was still better than a cartridge razor. However when I saw your shaving video I immediately ordered Astra blades and wow what a change! Thanks!

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      All the difference! Thanks for sharing!

  • @allanpennington
    @allanpennington 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    So in incorporating the shoulder 'drop' why isn't the difference made up with the same draft for both sides but a thicker shoulder padding on the dropped side? Wouldn't that then make the wearer look more symetrical?

  • @mrkillman555
    @mrkillman555 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Suits you, Sir!

  • @mikewingert5521
    @mikewingert5521 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Ask yourselves, how many trendy so called ‘designers’ can actually cut and strike a pattern? Ralph Lauren or any of the others…..Valentino or whoever? The real genuine skill is with people like this.

    • @check4v
      @check4v 22 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

      It's well known that Tom Ford basically stole from the Savile Row tailoring house Tommy Nutter and his cutters that worked there, Edward Sexton (he died last year, look him up), and the two guys who ended up opening Chittlesborough and Morgan. Nutter's closed decades ago, but C&M and Edward Sexton shops are still open. They charge the exact same bespoke as a Tom Ford suit costs off the rack + tailoring. Imagine that, the fake sells for the same price as the real thing!

  • @alasdairyoung889
    @alasdairyoung889 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Love the erudition of John and Terry. Does Suyamba only cut trousers though....I sensed a bit more accomplishment?

  • @christianellopm
    @christianellopm ปีที่แล้ว

    This is just nuts,

  • @the_dudeabides
    @the_dudeabides ปีที่แล้ว

    I hope the next video is sewing the suit. Been wondering how the trousers are put together.

  • @Fistful_of_Thimbles
    @Fistful_of_Thimbles ปีที่แล้ว

    such an interesting undersleeve shape that John drafts, I've genuinely never seen any other tailor make it like that, I assume it's so the tailor can determine the correct shape when setting the sleeve into the armhole?

  • @mohammedalmukhtar5428
    @mohammedalmukhtar5428 ปีที่แล้ว

    The Art of Perfection….

  • @MoroccoGamer
    @MoroccoGamer ปีที่แล้ว +1

    nice

  • @omeninodocachecol
    @omeninodocachecol ปีที่แล้ว

    How can i pay attention to what mr. Kent is up to when Terry and Suyamba are fooling around back there? They're so lovely, i'm enjoying every bit of it

    • @roarkwaswright
      @roarkwaswright ปีที่แล้ว +1

      LOL, that is what I've been thinking!

  • @gavindadds4414
    @gavindadds4414 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    John: 'I"ve done this before." - I wonder how many thousands of times over all his decades in the trade. When was the last time you used a typewriter?

  • @SteveRunciman
    @SteveRunciman ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Kirby, have you ever thought of moving to London?

  • @paulascott5701
    @paulascott5701 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I notice that the collars on these men's shirts to straight out to the side, the don't go down at all. I'm afraid I don't notice men's suits very much. Has this been the style for a long time?

  • @johncrasto1195
    @johncrasto1195 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    My name is John I wish to.lern from.john too as my dad was master cutter n I know few lines in grading n crafting n lost in touch

  • @GoldFinchFinancial
    @GoldFinchFinancial ปีที่แล้ว

    Kirby - you must do something on the shirts from Stephen! We are missing him in all these videos.

    • @kirbyallison
      @kirbyallison  ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Unfortunately due to circumstances out of both of our control, we were unable to coordinate schedules in the beginning. Hopefully something we resolve on future trips!

  • @coding7196
    @coding7196 ปีที่แล้ว

    What about the pre-shrinking?

  • @1977ajax
    @1977ajax ปีที่แล้ว

    Good to see a properly made video, and not the truncated, dumbed-down junk so loved by today's TV producers.

  • @SgtMjr
    @SgtMjr ปีที่แล้ว

    What would a bespoke tailor do to accommodate a CCW requirement? Kirby do you carry in TX?

    • @allanpennington
      @allanpennington 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      He wears these clothes in the UK where the style, fit and cloth is appreciated. No need for a wpn.

  • @user-wf2wi5wc2k
    @user-wf2wi5wc2k ปีที่แล้ว

    Suyamba needs an ASMR channel.

  • @iknowthisone6844
    @iknowthisone6844 ปีที่แล้ว

    can u make borat a suit? VERRY NICE

  • @Nickle314
    @Nickle314 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great slow watching. Just like slow food.

  • @williamlewis8741
    @williamlewis8741 ปีที่แล้ว

    i love this !!! but how much does the suit cost ?

    • @allanpennington
      @allanpennington 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      If you have to ask...you can't afford one!

  • @rajanpariyar5736
    @rajanpariyar5736 ปีที่แล้ว

    Plz next time upload pattan draft video

  • @deadpool8340
    @deadpool8340 ปีที่แล้ว

    John defo could have been in Lockstock and 2 smoking barrels

  • @haithamalmuzayan3050
    @haithamalmuzayan3050 ปีที่แล้ว

    👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

  • @assaultonheights8218
    @assaultonheights8218 ปีที่แล้ว

    😮🙂🙂👍🏻

  • @TheDreamtimezzz
    @TheDreamtimezzz ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Be very careful making Kirby’s suit. We all know how “fussy” he is from the previous video. 😮😀

  • @neiabloomfield5416
    @neiabloomfield5416 ปีที่แล้ว

    🌆

  • @esthermacdonald9568
    @esthermacdonald9568 ปีที่แล้ว

    Your Lordhip