2:58 Your boring bar is in backwards, you are turning the dial the wrong way(out), regardless of what the dial increments are labeled. That's why you have to run the machine in REVERSE!? The proof of that is at 1:26 where we see the second boring bar position OPPOSITE the adjusting dial. That is so if the center hole runs out of travel you retract and switch to the outside hole. You can't do that the way you have it. Your boring bar is in the head backwards.
Excellent primer. I bought two Criterion boring heads and don’t want to damage them in any way. What about RPMs? What’s a good starting and is there a max? Thanks for the video.
I enjoy all your videos- However, this one is lacking important info. Since you already drilled the hole, your spindle is centered with the hole. If you are going to bore an existing hole in a plate for example, you MUST first center the work with the spindle before boring.
I guess partly because its Aluminum but you spun it faster than I thought you would. Good to see as I've just been looking at them on ebay. Though I don't want to purchase a shoddy item so some more research is needed. Thanks for posting.
With a properly tuned boring operation, you should be able to achieve better hole accuracy over circular interpolation with an endmill. This is because you are not moving the machine in either X or Y which will introduce backlash/lost motion in the operation and will negatively effect diameter tolerance / hole roundness.
Why is there no mention of the direction of the rotation of the quill? I have a grizzly bench top mill with no reverse. When I setup the boring head ,with the bits I have the rotation should be counterclockwise. I am confused!!
Because he doesn't know what he's doing. He has the boring bar in BACKWARDS and is feeding it out BACKWARDS and has to use the machine in REVERSE. Don't worry about it. Put your boring bar in the head properly and run it in forward. The numbers on the dial mean nothing, its CHYNESE.
I have a hard time replacing insert and finding the sweet spot when taking backlash out. Fucked up today and made my bore way big. Don’t get it maybe I’m too dumb for machining
Not a fan of those eastern model boring heads. They do come loose even when they don’t chatter. Watch the rpm the centrifugal force can cause them to open up. Using commercial cnc’s the holes are suitably round as is by roughing first then finishing with a spring pass or two. Besides machining the hole you can choose any size you want and have a fixed radius that is repetitive part after part. Perhaps for one off parts on a less rigid machine or where you need a very deep hole these are ok. I always envisioned boring heads for manual mills or a pro quality tool for cylinder wall cleanup.
To add to that, on an older VMC I was using to circle mill a hole, it actually came out with a little chunk cut out of it (probably 1/8' wide) from the end mill because the ball screw on the mill was worn in that exact spot (motors moving on both X and Y but for a brief moment, the table stopped moving on one of the axis but not the other--when neither motor ever stopped during the cycle), causing a serious backlash and the hole obviously was no good (no where near good).
Mark Kotyk It should not matter as long as the adjustment screw is preloaded against the direction of cutting pressure. Boring heads like the one shown in this video have to be adjustable both ways to be capable of overturning.
Video is lacking a lot of info. You don't teach how to ensure boring bar is lined up properly among other things. I say this because a newcomer to boring that just got his shiny new boring head and bars from UPS is going to jump on TH-cam, see this video and only have part of what he needs. He'll likely chip the edge of his new import c6 boring bars using your "rocking" method of adjustment for first cut locating. Most people that watch your videos have no experience milling at all, have never worked in a machine shop etc, and don't have the rest of the knowledge you have. You set your boring bar angle perfectly, because you know where and how and most importantly why it needs to be set at that angle. The noob does not. Just add a little more info on the fine points that are lacking. Other than that great video.
With the amount of relief on the inserts of these tools a beginner machinist can line the tool up by eye with no major ill effects. But, indicating it would be the best way to ensure it is parallel to the adjustable boring head's dovetail. With the spindle centered on the hole, the rocking or sweeping method is the easiest way to ensure the backside of the tool isn't going to rub and that you aren't going to take too heavy of a cut.
Please excuse the possibly silly question, but I am actually curious. Why would you want to use a boring head with a CNC machine? Wouldn't a pocketing process work as well with inner diameter holes and a contour with outer diameter holes? Or should I assume the boring head offers considerably better tolerances?
@@Icutmetal Would roller burnishing be the most? Or is that mostly for surface finish? (Could argue that that is the smallest form of precision for extreme cases)
in theory, on a new machine, a boring head can give 4 times better accuracy than a circular interpolation move. the circle is more circular with a boring head.
We made bets on when someone would comment, so I lost. That employee doesn't work here anymore so I probably won't pay it off, since it was eight years ago.
Thanks, as an added bonus you showed me I've been using telescoping gages all wrong!
2:58 Your boring bar is in backwards, you are turning the dial the wrong way(out), regardless of what the dial increments are labeled. That's why you have to run the machine in REVERSE!?
The proof of that is at 1:26 where we see the second boring bar position OPPOSITE the adjusting dial. That is so if the center hole runs out of travel you retract and switch to the outside hole. You can't do that the way you have it. Your boring bar is in the head backwards.
Excellent primer. I bought two Criterion boring heads and don’t want to damage them in any way. What about RPMs? What’s a good starting and is there a max? Thanks for the video.
Does it go 20 thous for a full rotation? What does each line represent?
I enjoy all your videos- However, this one is lacking important info. Since you already drilled the hole, your spindle is centered with the hole. If you are going to bore an existing hole in a plate for example, you MUST first center the work with the spindle before boring.
Thanks for the tutorial. Well done! very informative.Thanks for the contribution. Thumbs up!!!!
I guess partly because its Aluminum but you spun it faster than I thought you would. Good to see as I've just been looking at them on ebay. Though I don't want to purchase a shoddy item so some more research is needed. Thanks for posting.
You can easily run aluminum at 1000+ surface feet. Many machines will run out of RPM before reaching an optimal RPM.
With a properly tuned boring operation, you should be able to achieve better hole accuracy over circular interpolation with an endmill. This is because you are not moving the machine in either X or Y which will introduce backlash/lost motion in the operation and will negatively effect diameter tolerance / hole roundness.
Why is there no mention of the direction of the rotation of the quill? I have a grizzly bench top mill with no reverse. When I setup the boring head ,with the bits I have the rotation should be counterclockwise. I am confused!!
Because he doesn't know what he's doing. He has the boring bar in BACKWARDS and is feeding it out BACKWARDS and has to use the machine in REVERSE. Don't worry about it. Put your boring bar in the head properly and run it in forward. The numbers on the dial mean nothing, its CHYNESE.
I like to know how adjust the roundness. If the bored hole is running out of round, how do you or can you adjust it?
Can’t adjust roundness using a boring head.
Nice. I learned something here today
I have a hard time replacing insert and finding the sweet spot when taking backlash out. Fucked up today and made my bore way big. Don’t get it maybe I’m too dumb for machining
Not a fan of those eastern model boring heads. They do come loose even when they don’t chatter. Watch the rpm the centrifugal force can cause them to open up. Using commercial cnc’s the holes are suitably round as is by roughing first then finishing with a spring pass or two. Besides machining the hole you can choose any size you want and have a fixed radius that is repetitive part after part. Perhaps for one off parts on a less rigid machine or where you need a very deep hole these are ok. I always envisioned boring heads for manual mills or a pro quality tool for cylinder wall cleanup.
Could you do a video on boring something hard... forgerd 4340 or stainless steel.
include feeds and speeds...
Thanks for the suggestion, we will add this to our list of future projects.
Sent this video to my wife because of the title.
To add to that, on an older VMC I was using to circle mill a hole, it actually came out with a little chunk cut out of it (probably 1/8' wide) from the end mill because the ball screw on the mill was worn in that exact spot (motors moving on both X and Y but for a brief moment, the table stopped moving on one of the axis but not the other--when neither motor ever stopped during the cycle), causing a serious backlash and the hole obviously was no good (no where near good).
I may be wrong, but I always dial my boring head *in*, not out. I think you get longer travel of the boring head, and less vibration.
Mark Kotyk It should not matter as long as the adjustment screw is preloaded against the direction of cutting pressure. Boring heads like the one shown in this video have to be adjustable both ways to be capable of overturning.
Nice job, very helpful.
+Carlos Cratic Glad you found it useful!
Great video
Video is lacking a lot of info. You don't teach how to ensure boring bar is lined up properly among other things. I say this because a newcomer to boring that just got his shiny new boring head and bars from UPS is going to jump on TH-cam, see this video and only have part of what he needs. He'll likely chip the edge of his new import c6 boring bars using your "rocking" method of adjustment for first cut locating. Most people that watch your videos have no experience milling at all, have never worked in a machine shop etc, and don't have the rest of the knowledge you have. You set your boring bar angle perfectly, because you know where and how and most importantly why it needs to be set at that angle. The noob does not. Just add a little more info on the fine points that are lacking. Other than that great video.
With the amount of relief on the inserts of these tools a beginner machinist can line the tool up by eye with no major ill effects. But, indicating it would be the best way to ensure it is parallel to the adjustable boring head's dovetail.
With the spindle centered on the hole, the rocking or sweeping method is the easiest way to ensure the backside of the tool isn't going to rub and that you aren't going to take too heavy of a cut.
Very good, and informative
Please excuse the possibly silly question, but I am actually curious. Why would you want to use a boring head with a CNC machine? Wouldn't a pocketing process work as well with inner diameter holes and a contour with outer diameter holes? Or should I assume the boring head offers considerably better tolerances?
The most precise way to finish a hole is single point boring, but this comment is 5 years old, so perhaps you've figured this out by now.
CNC Dude Do you think the cylinders in your car are pocket milled?
grinchyface That is incorrect; it can be very precise way to finish a hole, but not necessarily the most.
@@Icutmetal Would roller burnishing be the most? Or is that mostly for surface finish? (Could argue that that is the smallest form of precision for extreme cases)
@@Muny Or jig grinding…
@rsthoodiez I would not be thoroughly confused.
But you are obviously not the average woman.
in theory, on a new machine, a boring head can give 4 times better accuracy than a circular interpolation move. the circle is more circular with a boring head.
Is this the only reason to use a boring head?
They call it boring for a reason
u great sir
good
G85 is not boring cycle.Plz use G76 for finish boring cycle and G86 for rough boring cycle.
G76 is not a Tormach gcode. What are you talking about?
i can tell you're from WeesCAWNsin
Mike is the most Wisconsin of them all!
Why do you have loud crap music at intro ? It is to loud and you don't need it. As soon as hear it I switch off.
We made bets on when someone would comment, so I lost. That employee doesn't work here anymore so I probably won't pay it off, since it was eight years ago.
this is so boring
Then dont watch it
>the joke
>you
+Ando Larousse people who speak another language may not understand your sense of humour, so you are indeed the joke
...as boring.....as the tool he uses....a boring head!
We are from Poland and we understand your joke ;)
it amazes me how americans always say .0001
one thousands
we always say "one thou"
Actually, everyone at Tormach says one thou. We just call it out in the video for clarity for newer machinists.
Calm down Shakespeare.
Actually that is one tenth of one thou LOL's😕