i used to run the foam department for 1/2 million $ sport fishers. the trick is to keep the foam resins around 72 degrees for as long as you can,( store and mix if you can) the cold and speed buy time to flow before the rise, power mix like hell, and pour fast. there are some that snear at cutting closed cell foam, but the way you resealed seamed effective. great job man.n
Polyurethane foam is closed cell and water proof, when you sand it you open the cells but majority os water tight. I foamed filled to provide buoyancy if I punctured the hull and the sound proofing makes for a very nice day on the water. Cheers
@@ADVENTURES_ADRIFT ok - since the PU product are used as "fillers", can those waste be cut into small pieces and placed in the fresh pour solution which while expanding will engulf the waste small piece and both waste and new layer adhere to each other saving you material? Just my suggestion to tackle wastage. Or the waste crushed to a powder and mixed in small quantities with fhe freah solution and poured as filler ?
I’m not sure on that one mate. I think the off cuts would float on the freshly poured mix so I don’t think you’d get the desired outcome. In the big scheme of things that amount of wastage is the least of your concerns if you’re that deep into a rebuild. The other option is to put your floor down first and then pour foam into holes drilled in the floor. The issue there is that you won’t know if you got full coverage of the compartment.
Good video, but I was hoping to get an idea of how much it expands, to determine if it's worth my while for a different project. I would have loved to see an after photo of that first test section!
Wear goggles….that foam stuff in your eyes will irritate. Thx for video, very helpful.
i used to run the foam department for 1/2 million $ sport fishers. the trick is to keep the foam resins around 72 degrees for as long as you can,( store and mix if you can) the cold and speed buy time to flow before the rise, power mix like hell, and pour fast. there are some that snear at cutting closed cell foam, but the way you resealed seamed effective. great job man.n
Thank for the video. Super helpful. Cheers from the Pacific Northwest 🤙🏼
I found an electric drill with a small plaster mixer on did a great job.
I had a bucket of water to spin the mixer in to clean it, it worked well.
Appreciate the resin info mate, big ups
I am restoring my mfg gypsy 15' and am at the stage of installing a pvc drain pipe, pour foam and pvc board stringers any advice for me?
I have one chamber on my dingy Achilles 2 man raft I need to fill with foam can’t find the hole to patch.
Why not a closed cell foam water proof 100% rot proof ,
also if the compartment is air tight it has the same Buoyancy without foam .? Great job 👍
Polyurethane foam is closed cell and water proof, when you sand it you open the cells but majority os water tight. I foamed filled to provide buoyancy if I punctured the hull and the sound proofing makes for a very nice day on the water. Cheers
Cool but why?
The lamination looks nice and clean
Loving this mate 👍👌
good 👍
Thanks for sharing.
What do you do with the waste pieces ?
I just threw them out mate.
@@ADVENTURES_ADRIFT ok - since the PU product are used as "fillers", can those waste be cut into small pieces and placed in the fresh pour solution which while expanding will engulf the waste small piece and both waste and new layer adhere to each other saving you material? Just my suggestion to tackle wastage.
Or the waste crushed to a powder and mixed in small quantities with fhe freah solution and poured as filler ?
I’m not sure on that one mate. I think the off cuts would float on the freshly poured mix so I don’t think you’d get the desired outcome. In the big scheme of things that amount of wastage is the least of your concerns if you’re that deep into a rebuild. The other option is to put your floor down first and then pour foam into holes drilled in the floor. The issue there is that you won’t know if you got full coverage of the compartment.
@@ADVENTURES_ADRIFT Thanks for your time and responses !
Where to buy the foam kit from
Austral Asia Fibreglass supplies in Sydney
I wouldn't recommend 25 seconds of mixing or using a stick, should use a power mixer and mix for minimum 45 seconds
Good video, but I was hoping to get an idea of how much it expands, to determine if it's worth my while for a different project. I would have loved to see an after photo of that first test section!
Hi Graham, 1 litre expands to about 1 square Foot depending on temperatures. It’s it hot it will expand more but less dense. I hope this helps.
@@ADVENTURES_ADRIFT Cubic foot??? S' o.k! I speak bilingual measurements too!