Enjoyed the Vid. I worked with Frank Garrett (God rest his soul) when he used the original Sharps to create his repros. He spent a lot of time going to the manufacturer and making them do it right as they consistently tried to take short cuts. We had a friend make up a few pellet primers And YES, the Lawrence Pellet Primer System actually works! I found my 1859 loves the really hot Spanish caps. (Frank never made any 1859 Rifles. The ones you find were made from leftover Garrett Arms locks and parts after his contract expired with the manufacturer.) Good info, Thanks!
It's like Christmas for me lately! All the questions I've had about the 1859 Sharp's rifle and it's ammunition are getting answered in your videos. I don't even have any questions for this one, you guys rock!
I was at Sagamore Hill last month and they have some of Teddy Roosevelt's firearms there and one of them is a 1859 "Berdan's" Sharps that was re-chambered for a 45-70 Metallic cartridge. The docent didn't know if it is really a Berdan's but it has the double set triggers.
1863 Shiloh Sporting Rifle 30 in. barrel. Using 2 in. Hahn tubes, 475 gr ringtail bullets sized to .544. Trying to get the consistent accuracy of .45 70, .45 90 etc. at up to 1000 yards. Has anyone achieved this? Combination of BP size, amount, wad, lube used? Heard/read somewhere that 64 gr and 2f was good. Seems light to me as I was told by a Shiloh rep I could fill up the chamber at 120 gr + which makes sense as there is the .45 110 to .45 140. Any experience/suggestions would be great!!! Thank You!
Two things first I have a Shilo rifle and they are the best I installed an original lock plate with all the pellet primer and an original wax cast copy hammer so the primer would work if I had primers. Also installed original double set triggers on a repro bar. When I was with Company B from NY( before moving to GA) it worked flawlessly firring blanks could easily fire over 80 rounds with out a problem. I have lived fired it a few times. I think Shilodid a better job with their blocks then the Garrett's I have seen. Also it is not hard at all to to make a Springfield bayonne work on a Shilo just hone out the inside a bit and modify the sight groove a bit. I would not trade if for any other rifle but again I have had it for 30 years. Thanks for your videos. I miss doing a Sharpshooter now when I go out I go just as a bugler. You can hear me play taps in the movie "Sweethome. Alabama "
Lots of useful info. A camera operator who could zoom in on specific components while you pointed to them would be an improvement to consider on your nexxt one. I'm not a reenactor but collectively you guys shoot this model more than anybody else.
I recently bought an Army Sport, un-fired but with issues. The trigger plate had broken and been welded, the double set trigger would not work. I found a complete trigger assembly from Dixie but it is for another brand and adapting it is not without issues. The other thing is the fore-aft gap of the breech block, I measure 0.008", is this a normal thing? I paid $500 for the rifle and have $200 into parts, I'm hoping it isn't just a pretty wall hanger. But everyone needs a project, right?
The CCI Reenactor caps work best for blank charges IF you use a nipple configured for blanks. Those nipples have a larger flash hole than a live fire nipple standard nipple. Learned this many years ago the hard way.
A well cared for Sharps regardless of brand should work fine. We have certainly seen great examples of even lesser quality brands. Keep in touch if you have more questions. The Captain's email is on our homepage.
I had a Armisport 1859 sharps carbine and a Armisport Springfield 1861 musket and I never had any problems with it all I did was drill the hole out to make it a little bit bigger and when I wanted to add more flash to the gunpowder all I did was made a extra round with cream of wheat cleaning the carbine was a lot more easier then the musket because I could break it down including the breechblock can be remove and took apart and clean hot water and very good cleaning kit and with brushes and the tools I had in my cleaning box with extra parts and stuff in it as a ordinance Sgt. I was in control of fixing guns in the field and inspected them and repair them I never had a chance to really be apart of the event because I was fixing guns and revolvers for people that did not want to take the to clean and repair I can not tell you how any civil war reactors never took part in the event because of their weapons not working right or would not past inspection like to get back in to as cavalry or as a sharpshooter but I can not get over the price of the guns and equipment
I'm glad stumbled on this video. Those CCI's are the only thing you can find in my local gun shops and large online stores. Which now explains why I get soo many hang fires. Where do you guys usually find caps at?
They're surprisingly not that hard for us to find in Washington state. It seems most of the big sporting good chains don't carry them but local shops and even old school hardware/sporting good stores tend to carry them. If you called around or even reached out to a local black powder group you should be able to track some down. The best deal I get is actually from a farm supply store that sells sporting goods.
Ok, risking being excommunicated, I have seen hunters put a musket nipple on a traditional side lock for better ignition. Is there something similar to be done for the Sharps? Also on removing metal from the inside of the bayonet evenly to make it fit, we would in the industrial maintenance field would buy a pneumatic die grinder with a 1/4 inch chuck, get a piece of drill rod 1/4 " and cut it the length needed, we would then slot the end for1 inch emery cloth and wind it counter clockwise (opposite the direction of rotation) load it first with 60 grit and go to town.(we called it our frappy tool) As the emery cloth gets worn cut it off. It will not take very long to open up your bayonet. Then use finer grits in succession to get the finish you want. Also the locking collars can be stretched to avoid altering the sights on the rifle. As you get better with the tool you will even be able to put an taper on your efforts. Hope this is of some help. Great video, lots of good information. Much needed I'm guessing. Have a great day fellas.
my mis-ires were caused by a too small flash hole in the nipple. After being opened up bit at a time complete reliability was achieved. I am using Hahn tubes instead of hand rolled paper cartridges but still fun.
I always used two different nipples. One for live fire which has a smaller diameter flash opening and the blank nipple had a larger flash opening which helps ignite blank charges better. Using the blank nipple for live fire gives more blowback into the hammer, and for face, due to the higher pressure of shooting a projectile.
From what has been found or researched, swords were carried by staff officers of the 1st and 2nd USSS. However, most of the staff officers by a certain part of the war came from company officer positions or from the ranks into officer and then staff positions so they were all still "crack shots". Only example we have found or is know as of now was the chaplain of the 2nd Larenzo Barber who carried a target rifle in the field... stacking bodies in the name of the Lord!
Have you experianced "lock ups" as a result of powder fouling after extended firing? I have heard of some creative historic, "natural" remedies but realistically, how do you contend with it in the field?
When a rifle locks up... at least for me and what I do when I see one happen on the line is a few drops of water on the block/receiver. Covering the cone with my thumb to prevent water from getting into the flash channel. I'll then work the breach 10 times or so with a little water to knock the "crud" lose. Hope this helps some! Capt.
Both. They essentially needed to shoot 10 shots in a 5 inch group at 100 yards standing and the same 200 yards from a bench. The group would usually be measured with a string 50" long. If the shot spread did not exceed the length of the string, they passed.
James Soderling , I'm still confused, lol If all the shots have to be in a 5" circle why is there a 50" string ? What would they measure ? This might be a good video for you guys to explain, lol
wade cates sorry for the confusion. The target was 10 inches. Each shot fired the measured with a string to the next shot and so on. If the string ran out before the tenth shot they also did not qualify. If they had string still left they were good to go.
They are events that are very similar. Private events are ones for reenactors held by reenactors, which typically have a specific battle or scenario in mind. Tacticals are private events with no specific scenario and are unplanned. They can also be a 24/7 on the move battle that are really quite a lot of fun to be apart of.
1st Sgt, at the end y'all were talking about that little sleeve in the chamber and it sounded like you rattled it. Are they supposed to be loose? I have a brand new rifle and have never fired it and the chamber sleeve is not loose, it is in there tight. I stuck my finger in it and tried to move or wiggle it and it did nothing. Any ideas?
They should move. Is it the end of the world if it doesn't? No. Because after a few shots, fouling holds it into place anyway. It's a primitive gas mitigation system. If it's new, it could be held in because the lubricant dried or created a vacuum seal. Some bore cleaner could break it free. There is a special tool that allows you to free it. It's expensive and sometimes difficult to get, but worth it to stay on top of it. It's called the sharps chamber sleeve tool, or something similar. Keep in touch you need some more brainstorming.
Thank you. I have sent the rifle back to DGW because the rear sight is messed up. Someone at the factory put the yardage increments on the wrong side of the ladder sight and then mounted it upside down so it would look right. But the sight notch for short range is against the barrel. I should get a new one in a week or so. I should have listened to y'all and gotten a pedersoli rather than an Armi Sport/Chiappa. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful rifle. Wood finish and color cse hardening are beautiful. Wood to Metal fit is fine. But the rear sight is ass backwards and mounted up side down. Some one in the factory did that and probably did a whole lot of them before he or someone realized the mistake. The gunsmith at DG said he would inspect the replacement before they sent it out. @@CompanyD2ndUSSS
Would need work to be done on the internals of the lock by a gunsmith unfortunately. Personally have seen some pretty bad DIY jobs to lessen trigger pull on black powder lock plates and they would make you want to cry or make others cry due to the unsafe nature.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS Thanks for your reply, I think I order another tumbler that will fit it, and see if that helps, if not I can try working on one and if it turns out bad I still have one to put back in it. As for a gunsmith the last one around here died last year ,he was a really good one. I believe there is one that come to Perrysville every year to the reenactment on sutler row,might see if he's there this year. Like to have it fixed before hunting season, planning on deer hunting with it. There is one other problem the lever lock want stay locked ,any ideas on it?
If it's brand new, yes but not dramatically. If it's used, check for burrs on all the edges of your block. That was a problem on one of our rifles in the past. The other thing is to make sure it's well lubricated. Lastly, your lever spring screw may be too tight. It's located under the fore stock. Some people tighten the life out of the lever spring screw and backing it off just a bit can make a huge difference. Start tight then back a 1/4 turn and check to see if it improves each time. Running it too loose will transfer strain to the screw and cause to shear after extended use. Keep in touch if you're still having issues. You can also reach out directly to Cpt. Whitehall for more info. His email is on our homepage and he can help you trouble shoot some more if you need it.
I did what you suggested and backed out the screw 3/4 of a turn and it is much better now. I will leave it where it is and see how it goes after a bit of use.
I must complement you on your scene set-up. This video imagery was Perfect. Better than Hollywood...it was like looking into a time machine. :) You should sell this image as a poster.
Pedersolis are fine rifles, as reflected by the cost. Worth it though. Looking at one for Xmas this year. EDIT: Will scope it though. Mine will be for targets and hunting.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS They sure do. There's even a shootoff every year at Boonesboro (Daniel' Boone's old place) with long rifles between KY and PA. The 1st match was to determine the name of the famous long rifle. Kentucky won, thus we have the Kentucky rifle. A bit of useless trivia for you there...
@@DarthMercanto I have my boyfriend's IAB, it shoots fine is accurate, looks good too. Action works smooth, but he may have reworked it, as he is always rebuild guns.
I appreciate your video, it is informative, perhaps your experience with IAB is not so good, BUT the one that I have is as good as any rifle could be. Fit and finish is good, workmanship is great, No problems ( I've been shooting black powder rifles for 50+ years ) I have not seen all IAB rifles for sure. Mine is not the military model, it is the 1859 target model with 29" tapered round barrel target tang sights. Anyone who is going to spend any serious amount of money ($500+ ) should have that rifle/ hand gun looked at by an experienced and knowing gun person ( not biased ) Yes there is junk out there, and fellows like you who are active re-enactors come across guns with problems. It is well that you caution watchers of videos like this one of guns with problems. But watching your video, I had to go to my gun room to look at first hand any problems that I have with my IAB.............and I could find none.
I suppose the quality control varied with the iab guns. The wood on mine is very nice. The blueing is good. I haven't had it long enough to work up a load so I don't know how it's going to shoot. Fit and finish is good. I paid $400 for mine. No complaints yet. This is a good video. Lots of good info.
Enjoyed the Vid. I worked with Frank Garrett (God rest his soul) when he used the original Sharps to create his repros. He spent a lot of time going to the manufacturer and making them do it right as they consistently tried to take short cuts. We had a friend make up a few pellet primers And YES, the Lawrence Pellet Primer System actually works! I found my 1859 loves the really hot Spanish caps. (Frank never made any 1859 Rifles. The ones you find were made from leftover Garrett Arms locks and parts after his contract expired with the manufacturer.) Good info, Thanks!
It's like Christmas for me lately! All the questions I've had about the 1859 Sharp's rifle and it's ammunition are getting answered in your videos. I don't even have any questions for this one, you guys rock!
Y’all do a great job with your videos! Excellent quality and very informative wish I found them sooner. Great hobby, thanks again!
Hello. I am an old reenactor and I enjoyed this video very much. It was almost as if i was sitting there with you chatting shop. Thanks.
I was at Sagamore Hill last month and they have some of Teddy Roosevelt's firearms there and one of them is a 1859 "Berdan's" Sharps that was re-chambered for a 45-70 Metallic cartridge. The docent didn't know if it is really a Berdan's but it has the double set triggers.
Maine Powder house has Goex 18.00 and free shipping for 25lbs currently.and they also have Swiss and Schuetzen
Love the 1859 sharps.
Fantastic. Love it. I enjoy my Pedersoli Berdan Sharps rifle. Its a great, and accurate, rifle. I just wish that there was a USSS group near.
1863 Shiloh Sporting Rifle 30 in. barrel. Using 2 in. Hahn tubes, 475 gr ringtail bullets sized to .544. Trying to get the consistent accuracy of .45 70, .45 90 etc. at up to 1000 yards. Has anyone achieved this? Combination of BP size, amount, wad, lube used? Heard/read somewhere that 64 gr and 2f was good. Seems light to me as I was told by a Shiloh rep I could fill up the chamber at 120 gr + which makes sense as there is the .45 110 to .45 140. Any experience/suggestions would be great!!! Thank You!
Two things first I have a Shilo rifle and they are the best I installed an original lock plate with all the pellet primer and an original wax cast copy hammer so the primer would work if I had primers. Also installed original double set triggers on a repro bar. When I was with Company B from NY( before moving to GA) it worked flawlessly firring blanks could easily fire over 80 rounds with out a problem. I have lived fired it a few times. I think Shilodid a better job with their blocks then the Garrett's I have seen. Also it is not hard at all to to make a Springfield bayonne work on a Shilo just hone out the inside a bit and modify the sight groove a bit. I would not trade if for any other rifle but again I have had it for 30 years. Thanks for your videos. I miss doing a Sharpshooter now when I go out I go just as a bugler. You can hear me play taps in the movie "Sweethome. Alabama "
Lots of useful info. A camera operator who could zoom in on specific components while you pointed to them would be an improvement to consider on your nexxt one. I'm not a reenactor but collectively you guys shoot this model more than anybody else.
I recently bought an Army Sport, un-fired but with issues. The trigger plate had broken and been welded, the double set trigger would not work. I found a complete trigger assembly from Dixie but it is for another brand and adapting it is not without issues. The other thing is the fore-aft gap of the breech block, I measure 0.008", is this a normal thing? I paid $500 for the rifle and have $200 into parts, I'm hoping it isn't just a pretty wall hanger. But everyone needs a project, right?
The CCI Reenactor caps work best for blank charges IF you use a nipple configured for blanks. Those nipples have a larger flash hole than a live fire nipple standard nipple. Learned this many years ago the hard way.
Does this Sharps 1859 model use both Combustible Paper Cartridges and Metallic Cartridges?
Paper cartridge only. The 72' sharps was when metallic cartridge sharps were coming out in large numbers.
I bought an IAB over 20 years back...no issues ...but i kind of want to cry now.
Just bought an 1863 IAB. Haven’t picked it up yet. Hmm, you’ve given me a few concerns. First gun of this style. Fingers crossed.
A well cared for Sharps regardless of brand should work fine. We have certainly seen great examples of even lesser quality brands. Keep in touch if you have more questions. The Captain's email is on our homepage.
Great vid guys, thanks!
I had a Armisport 1859 sharps carbine and a Armisport Springfield 1861 musket and I never had any problems with it all I did was drill the hole out to make it a little bit bigger and when I wanted to add more flash to the gunpowder all I did was made a extra round with cream of wheat cleaning the carbine was a lot more easier then the musket because I could break it down including the breechblock can be remove and took apart and clean hot water and very good cleaning kit and with brushes and the tools I had in my cleaning box with extra parts and stuff in it as a ordinance Sgt. I was in control of fixing guns in the field and inspected them and repair them I never had a chance to really be apart of the event because I was fixing guns and revolvers for people that did not want to take the to clean and repair I can not tell you how any civil war reactors never took part in the event because of their weapons not working right or would not past inspection like to get back in to as cavalry or as a sharpshooter but I can not get over the price of the guns and equipment
Is a single or double trigger model more authentic for the 1859?
Depends on who is using it. 1st and 2nd Sharpshooters were issued double triggers.
This is a very good video. I have a Pedersoli Infantry Rifle and really like it.
very nice ! I have much more knowledge now .
My Smith & Wesson 2.0 Shield has the sweetest trigger & shoots like a dream.
Nice informative talk ! what is your opinion on Chiappa Sharps ?
You got rid of the stash noooooo...lol great video guys keep it up
I'm glad stumbled on this video. Those CCI's are the only thing you can find in my local gun shops and large online stores. Which now explains why I get soo many hang fires. Where do you guys usually find caps at?
They're surprisingly not that hard for us to find in Washington state. It seems most of the big sporting good chains don't carry them but local shops and even old school hardware/sporting good stores tend to carry them. If you called around or even reached out to a local black powder group you should be able to track some down. The best deal I get is actually from a farm supply store that sells sporting goods.
Ok, risking being excommunicated, I have seen hunters put a musket nipple on a traditional side lock for better ignition. Is there something similar to be done for the Sharps? Also on removing metal from the inside of the bayonet evenly to make it fit, we would in the industrial maintenance field would buy a pneumatic die grinder with a 1/4 inch chuck, get a piece of drill rod 1/4 " and cut it the length needed, we would then slot the end for1 inch emery cloth and wind it counter clockwise (opposite the direction of rotation) load it first with 60 grit and go to town.(we called it our frappy tool) As the emery cloth gets worn cut it off. It will not take very long to open up your bayonet. Then use finer grits in succession to get the finish you want. Also the locking collars can be stretched to avoid altering the sights on the rifle. As you get better with the tool you will even be able to put an taper on your efforts. Hope this is of some help. Great video, lots of good information. Much needed I'm guessing. Have a great day fellas.
Please put a list of the places you mention in film for ordering parts ! Thanks Frank
They're listed on our website. Let us know if you need help finding something.
my mis-ires were caused by a too small flash hole in the nipple. After being opened up bit at a time complete reliability was achieved. I am using Hahn tubes instead of hand rolled paper cartridges but still fun.
I always used two different nipples. One for live fire which has a smaller diameter flash opening and the blank nipple had a larger flash opening which helps ignite blank charges better.
Using the blank nipple for live fire gives more blowback into the hammer, and for face, due to the higher pressure of shooting a projectile.
Did field grade officers use the Sharps rifle in battle or did they carry swords only?
From what has been found or researched, swords were carried by staff officers of the 1st and 2nd USSS. However, most of the staff officers by a certain part of the war came from company officer positions or from the ranks into officer and then staff positions so they were all still "crack shots". Only example we have found or is know as of now was the chaplain of the 2nd Larenzo Barber who carried a target rifle in the field... stacking bodies in the name of the Lord!
Have you experianced "lock ups" as a result of powder fouling after extended firing? I have heard of some creative historic, "natural" remedies but realistically, how do you contend with it in the field?
When a rifle locks up... at least for me and what I do when I see one happen on the line is a few drops of water on the block/receiver. Covering the cone with my thumb to prevent water from getting into the flash channel. I'll then work the breach 10 times or so with a little water to knock the "crud" lose. Hope this helps some!
Capt.
Originally when men were shooting to qualify as a sharpshooter did they shoot from a bench or standing without a support
Both. They essentially needed to shoot 10 shots in a 5 inch group at 100 yards standing and the same 200 yards from a bench. The group would usually be measured with a string 50" long. If the shot spread did not exceed the length of the string, they passed.
Company D 2nd USSS thanks for the fast reply.
So help me understand , a man had to put ten shots in a 50" circle standing at 100 yards ?
James Soderling , I'm still confused, lol
If all the shots have to be in a 5" circle why is there a 50" string ?
What would they measure ?
This might be a good video for you guys to explain, lol
wade cates sorry for the confusion. The target was 10 inches. Each shot fired the measured with a string to the next shot and so on. If the string ran out before the tenth shot they also did not qualify. If they had string still left they were good to go.
Company D 2nd USSS ,ah ok I gotcha now.
Thanks, totally understand now and cool to learn that fun fact
What is the difference between a private event and a tactical event?
They are events that are very similar. Private events are ones for reenactors held by reenactors, which typically have a specific battle or scenario in mind. Tacticals are private events with no specific scenario and are unplanned. They can also be a 24/7 on the move battle that are really quite a lot of fun to be apart of.
1st Sgt, at the end y'all were talking about that little sleeve in the chamber and it sounded like you rattled it. Are they supposed to be loose? I have a brand new rifle and have never fired it and the chamber sleeve is not loose, it is in there tight. I stuck my finger in it and tried to move or wiggle it and it did nothing. Any ideas?
They should move. Is it the end of the world if it doesn't? No. Because after a few shots, fouling holds it into place anyway. It's a primitive gas mitigation system. If it's new, it could be held in because the lubricant dried or created a vacuum seal. Some bore cleaner could break it free. There is a special tool that allows you to free it. It's expensive and sometimes difficult to get, but worth it to stay on top of it. It's called the sharps chamber sleeve tool, or something similar. Keep in touch you need some more brainstorming.
Thank you. I have sent the rifle back to DGW because the rear sight is messed up. Someone at the factory put the yardage increments on the wrong side of the ladder sight and then mounted it upside down so it would look right. But the sight notch for short range is against the barrel. I should get a new one in a week or so. I should have listened to y'all and gotten a pedersoli rather than an Armi Sport/Chiappa. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful rifle. Wood finish and color cse hardening are beautiful. Wood to Metal fit is fine. But the rear sight is ass backwards and mounted up side down. Some one in the factory did that and probably did a whole lot of them before he or someone realized the mistake. The gunsmith at DG said he would inspect the replacement before they sent it out. @@CompanyD2ndUSSS
I have a IAB 1863 Sharps Carbine 54 caliber,and it has a really stiff trigger,how do I fix that? It a single trigger.
Would need work to be done on the internals of the lock by a gunsmith unfortunately.
Personally have seen some pretty bad DIY jobs to lessen trigger pull on black powder lock plates and they would make you want to cry or make others cry due to the unsafe nature.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS Thanks for your reply, I think I order another tumbler that will fit it, and see if that helps, if not I can try working on one and if it turns out bad I still have one to put back in it. As for a gunsmith the last one around here died last year ,he was a really good one. I believe there is one that come to Perrysville every year to the reenactment on sutler row,might see if he's there this year. Like to have it fixed before hunting season, planning on deer hunting with it. There is one other problem the lever lock want stay locked ,any ideas on it?
I have a question on my 1859 Pedersoli. The block is really tight and I assume it will loosen up as I use it more. Am I correct?
If it's brand new, yes but not dramatically. If it's used, check for burrs on all the edges of your block. That was a problem on one of our rifles in the past. The other thing is to make sure it's well lubricated. Lastly, your lever spring screw may be too tight. It's located under the fore stock. Some people tighten the life out of the lever spring screw and backing it off just a bit can make a huge difference. Start tight then back a 1/4 turn and check to see if it improves each time. Running it too loose will transfer strain to the screw and cause to shear after extended use. Keep in touch if you're still having issues. You can also reach out directly to Cpt. Whitehall for more info. His email is on our homepage and he can help you trouble shoot some more if you need it.
Thanks for the reply I will check out the lever spring screw and see how that works. Appreciate the help.
I did what you suggested and backed out the screw 3/4 of a turn and it is much better now. I will leave it where it is and see how it goes after a bit of use.
I must complement you on your scene set-up. This video imagery was Perfect. Better than Hollywood...it was like looking into a time machine. :) You should sell this image as a poster.
Thank you very much for the kind words!
Its it possible to mount a modern day nikon on a sharps
No. Not unless you want to drill it.
Where are you guys doing that from, the top of a mountain?
legoboy 300001 yes we were!
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS How and why in heavens name did you do that, I hope you had to hike up there and that the camp is close by
Now this is Soldering!
Pedersolis are fine rifles, as reflected by the cost. Worth it though. Looking at one for Xmas this year.
EDIT: Will scope it though. Mine will be for targets and hunting.
Oh, that would be awesome! Quite a few people still competition shoot with Sharps rifles.
@@CompanyD2ndUSSS They sure do. There's even a shootoff every year at Boonesboro (Daniel' Boone's old place) with long rifles between KY and PA. The 1st match was to determine the name of the famous long rifle. Kentucky won, thus we have the Kentucky rifle. A bit of useless trivia for you there...
@@TheGunrunn3r what rifle do you have exactly? ive been looking at the pedersoli rifles as well and cant decide!
@@jakegetz6636 I have a Kentucky rifle, but maybe for laterz I'll get the Sharps. Couldn't swing it this year.
My IAB Sharps works well and has a nice stock :'(...
Awesome!
Company D 2nd USSS it's not very accurate though, I think the bore might be oversized :(.
Either way, I really want a Ped Bredan lol
@@DarthMercanto I have my boyfriend's IAB, it shoots fine is accurate, looks good too. Action works smooth, but he may have reworked it, as he is always rebuild guns.
I appreciate your video, it is informative, perhaps your experience with IAB is not so good, BUT the one that I have is as good as any rifle could be. Fit and finish is good, workmanship is great, No problems ( I've been shooting black powder rifles for 50+ years )
I have not seen all IAB rifles for sure. Mine is not the military model, it is the 1859 target model with 29" tapered round barrel target tang sights.
Anyone who is going to spend any serious amount of money ($500+ ) should have that rifle/ hand gun looked at by an experienced and knowing gun person ( not biased )
Yes there is junk out there, and fellows like you who are active re-enactors come across guns with problems. It is well that you caution watchers of videos like this one of guns with problems.
But watching your video, I had to go to my gun room to look at first hand any problems that I have with my IAB.............and I could find none.
I suppose the quality control varied with the iab guns. The wood on mine is very nice. The blueing is good.
I haven't had it long enough to work up a load so I don't know how it's going to shoot. Fit and finish is good.
I paid $400 for mine. No complaints yet. This is a good video. Lots of good info.
PLEASE COMMENT ON CHIEAPPA RIFLES !!
Ya'll make quite a scene there in yo' purdy blue uniforms. Hold still whilst I take a pitchurr fo' my scrap book! Steady... click...click...
Damn yanks
#musketmasterrace