Amazing Simple Trick to Shoot Better Panoramas
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ย. 2015
- Download the source files to follow along this tutorial here: www.photoserge.com/offers/jeN...
In this episode I will show four different ways to shoot a panorama:
1. With a Ninja Nodal 5 a panoramic head.
2. With a regular tripod.
3. By hand.
4. By hand with a magic trick.
Then we will compare the result stitching in Auto pano Giga.
You will see how to get better stitched panoramas with more data and less photoshop work.
- Serge
Get AutoPano here: store.kolor.com/autopano-pro-4...
Buy Photoshop and Lightroom as part of Creative Cloud and save 15% by clicking here adobe.ly/photoserge
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After 7 years now at December, 2022 I came to rewatch this amazing tutorial again.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but nodal point only matters when you have a scene with close and far objects. If you're shooting a pano with everything far away, there is no parallax error. Also, using a L-bracket for panoramas really only comes into play when you're shooting multi-row panoramas. An L-bracket keeps the camera rotated about the nodal point even when tilting up and down.
A single row panorama (with the camera in a vertical position) may only require a nodal rail for scenes with close and far subjects.
The only reason to use a nodal head is if your bracketing exposures for post processing pans later. (High, mid and low exposures). The nodal head will ensure all of the stitched pans at varying exposure will line up and match perfectly for exposure blending later. Also, another piece of advice- focus on the primary feature of the pan then put that thing into manual focus for the remainder of the exposures. I learned this the hard way when one frame is not focused correctly trying to stitch.
Love the thumb technique ! I was surprised you were in Autofocus though.
Fantastic tutorial! I liked to see the "trick" with the thumb, great.
Bonjour Serge, merci pour ce tuto !
thanks for this tuto !
Great tips Serge! Much appreciated!
Never use autofocus when shooting panoramas. Use a small enough aperture to get the depth of field you need and put your lens at its hyperfocal distance for that f-stop. If you are using a fisheye, you can shoot with a very wide aperture, since the d.o.f. is so huge. You may have been able to get away with autofocus in this case, since nothing was very close and it focused at approximately infinity every time, but you will have parallax errors if anything causes it to focus closer.
You should have talked about how parallax error is the real problem with the "bad" shooting methods. I have 15 or so years experience with high-end panoramics, so I am speaking from experience. If you use autofocus on an interior, for instance, you will be in bad trouble, regardless of what panohead you use and whether you are at the proper "no parallax" position (technically different from nodal point, which is not really what you mean, though it is commonly described as such.)
I enjoy your videos, Serge. I would love to meet you in person when I next get to Paris!
Serge, some very useful tips, thank you so much. As a complete beginner at panoramic photography your channel will give me some very good guidance i’m certain of this. 👏📸
love all of your videos, always look forward to them!!
Thank you for this video. It was easy to follow and I was able to produce my own panorama as a result. Cheers!
When ever I add Magenta now .... I always refer to it as ..... 'adding a bit of Serge' lol
for sure
Windows ICE (image composite editor) rocks!!! It has all the pro features and is free. Offers auto-detection, multiple projections, rotation of perspective point and even equivalent of photoshops content-aware fill.
Btw. I Wouldn't measuring for middle exposure as it can result in highlight clipping! Not to mention AF.
I use ICE as well because I refuse to pay Adobe $100/year FOREVER. Luminar and Aurora are not as good as Lr and PS, but good enough for me as I'm not a pro photographer. Serge has a video on hand-held HDRs for daylight work that works very well. Checkout this HDR/Pano at photos.app.goo.gl/27wN2NCq2hSG2VDD8. My workflow is: 1) Use Aurora to batch process (Lr cannot batch process) several bracketed photos that will be used to make one pano; 2) I choose the Aurora output to be JPG, but TIFF would save more data; 3) create pano using ICE; 4) Import completed pano into Aurora; 5) Post-process in either Aurora and/or Luminar, as Aurora has plugin to Luminar; 6) Go back to Luminar in order to save all post-processing info; 7) export a JPEG for show and tell on Google Photos.
I have had dozens of explanations of nodal point, but this was the first that clicked. Thank you. Of course, that wasn’t as big an issue when we all had to actually look through the eyepiece of a camera. Why don't we all have square optical sensors anyway? It would eliminate all of the whistles and bells on camera bodies and tripods, you know, like the old "full frame" 2 1/4 cameras.
I generally exposed each frame independently, but I see the logic of a compromise shutter speed, I think. I'm already biased against Auto Focus. The sky never works right for AF.
These are great tips. Thanks!
Serge, its bin a while. all the best man.
Thanks Serge for rule of thumb!
Thank you for thumb trick! Very useful.
I like Griffith park for shooting also, but after this tutorial I will like it more I think, Thanks Serge!!
Again, Magnificent tutorial! Keep it up Sarge
I enjoyed it ! thanks
there is an evident mistake in the panorama comparison, the projections in autopano are diferent, the 1º, 2º and 4º are cilindrical projections while the 3º is a rectilinear projection (where you always loose corners no matter what), you should set them all in equirectangular (spherical) or cilindrical projection, with this last one you can recover the corners (so you loose less when you crop the panorama)
Great as always
Thanks for making description easy
Very cool thumb technique.
Thanks Serge - I was doing the wrong way for years and over compensating by shooting a lot more photos.
using autofocus is wrong when shooting panorama. You should set the camera at manual focus and select a focus setting with a narrow aperture to get a wide depth of field.
+Henri Witteveen i use autofocus, but i usually go with f10 and above, depends on what i do, usually inside buildings
agreed
Manual or back button focus is the way to go indeed
+Serge Ramelli I use a manual focus lens, 24mm until yesterday, focus about at my feet and shoot at F/13 or so. Focus for landscapes isn't that important.
You have illustrated my point that focus is not very impirtant in landscape photography.
Another great video! Your tutorials are very helpful and from all of us, amateur photographers, thank you! If it is possible (don't know if anyone else asked about it) it would be interesting to make a tutorial about milky way arch panorama, and how to shoot it!! I believe many people (me included) are trying without success..Anyway, thanks again!!!
Hi have learn lots from you. I need to capture a row of shop houses with about 7 to 10 stories height. The challenge is that I only have 3 lane width to shoot from. In short I need to capture in parallel from the opposite side. Thus this can't be a Panorama. How do I do this and what software can I use to merge the photos together? Many Thanks Patrick
Great tutorial as allways. Thank you Serge!
So great job
great info.
Thanks, that same issue has been bugging me on panos, makes perfect sense now.
Excellent
I use a rotating device between head and camera. Sunwayfoto has some, mine's an even cheaper iShoot. And a L bracket on the camera. Keeps the camera centred and balanced on the tripod, and unless something is very close, completely sufficient.
Bottom line, get a good level base, adjust for parallax and use a great indexing pano head like the Manfrotto 300N- then, level on the camera until it's perfect. Only overlap by 30% or slightly less. My pano's come out perfect with very little cropping needed.
One question I have though- if I do more than 10 images in the pano, my result looks long and a bit skinny. Is this normal? Has anyone first stacked each of the images in the pan vertically (2 images up and down), then horizontally? That would essentially be like two layers of a pano stacked on top of each other. I saw one guy do it in YTube. Looked interesting but I never tried it.
Thank you!!!!!!!!
you should have also explained the use of different focal lengths. the widest lens i use is 50mm and the longest is 300mm..i just completed my largest multi row pano with 7 stops of hdr(in camera) it was 294 phots. there is no way you can do that with auto focus
Help me understand- what do you mean 7 stops HDR? Also, you made a pano using 294 images? Wouldn't it be super skinny? For me, any pano with more than 10 images gets stretched and thin.
What head are you using under the Nodal Ninja to set the 20% moves you speak of?
how to make virtual tour for real estates and hotels please teach me how to do that and suggested camera and lens and software needed?
Keep on following my tutorial! I might do a video about this!
what focal length do you use with your lens?
Hey Serge, nice presentation. The pixel size is actually super large in your thumb pano. So are you actually missing a lot of skies or is that actually the correct perspective?
Hello Serge, please could you link that Nodal Ninja 5? I can't find it on web for pricing, not even on B&H, I see only version 3 or 4. Maybe I am not searching well :-) Thanks
About the "thumb" method: Most pro pano shooters hold the camera above the ball of their foot and rotate about that. Alternately, you can use a string tied around the lens and held under your foot, which keeps you centered AND provides stability. Similarly, you can use a small weight at the bottom, similar to a plumb bob, over a feature on the ground. Google "Philopod" for details. This can even be used to shoot multi-row handhelds by a skilled practitioner.
I’ve found that the key to the best pano is to absolutely nail the leveling. I’ve been using a nodal rail and an L bracket on a nice tripod and getting good result. Thanks for the tips - good vid!
I agree, David! I use a nodal rail on a superb FLM CP-26 Travel Tripod, for extremely sharp and detailed panoramic images! It has many unique features, for example, the "Pan" function permits butter-smooth normal panning, but in addition, adds a 15-degree ratchet function that is fantastic for us landscape/panorama photographers! (If interested, see it here: www.flmcanada.com) Also, I would never trip the shutter without using the self timer or a cable release. Doesn't matter what camera one uses, if one depresses the shutter release on the camera body, one induces vibration! Then what's the point of having a good tripod? Thanks!
Hi Serge. I just got the a7 II with the 35mm f2.8 prime like yours! Are you thinking to update your gears and get the a7r II and or the a7s II?
+Serge Ramelli you won't regret! I love the ability to shot on 1/6 or even 1/3 of a second hand held! It's amazing.
Thank you.
Hello Serge. I'm your russian colleague. Love your videos, thx for them!
BTW, did you ever shoot spherical panos? 360° I mean.
I think that I'm quite good at it, but nevertheless I want to see your experience in such photo-type.
P.S. I issued new video on my channel today. It's about ideal verticals and horizontals in panoramas using ptGUI software. So if you interested in this - welcome!
Hi Serge
Great Tutorials, I appreciate the Lightroom tipps!
One thing, I think you should be more clear sometimes about the methods you use.
An example in this video is Anti-ghost. You say that often you get mistakes in Lightroom that you don't have when checking it. Why not just telling us that this tries to remove unsynchronized parts in the image and parallax issues (which btw happen when not shooting panos turning on the Nodal Point)? And yes, in your example shooting with outstretched arms would not make such a big difference if you used the same stitching mode like at the other panos (concerning sky space). It simply can't. It would be a big difference if you have near objects like poles or trees that shift due to parallax, then it is important to turn at the NP.
Just my thoughts. Still awesome work that you are doing here. I learned a lot in your Archinterior tutorials.
vous m'avez fait aimé la photo Mr Ramelli i kiffe you ✌️
I have a Fuji XT2 camera that has auto-manoramic stitching. Are the results just as good using these automated modes, or should this be done manually post process? Thanks.
graphicartdude, IMHO, you will always obtain better, more precise results, by using a manual technique, and good post-processing software.
Wow
Another way for hand holding is to tie a piece of string on the lens, the loose end dangling to the ground. as you turn the camera the camera, keep the string touching the ground in the same place.
The major issue with the third pano should be that the application automatically chose Perspective layout instead of Cylindrical. Choosing Cylindrical manually should deliver a much better result.
+Yongwei Wu Clear. Nodal point becomes important when one takes a foto with elements that are close to the camera. For the landscape as shown in the tutorials it practically does not make any difference.
nice tutorial as always, but if you can talk more about how to shot a single pictures to create panorama, e.g how many parts in common for every single one, that will be better
I keep my viewfinder to my eye, so it is acting like your thumb.
And I also shoot a higher and lower in the direct middle so I have more sky and ground.
I understood physics from high school. :)
So, I'm guessing the curved missing panorama pieces reflects the curve made by your arms?
absolutely terrible advice. the reason you rotate around the nodal point is to prevent foreground objects from shifting relative to the background from one shot to the next, not to get more sky. you should be setting your exposure to preserve the highlights, not splitting the difference. never refocus during a pano. pick your main subject, focus and lock your focus. iso, shutter speed and aperture should all be locked as well. you've been doing panos for years and you still clearly haven't got the software figured out... why did you bother making this vid?
+Maltfalc ok you told that he is doing wrong with software, tell us how to do it right, personally I use lightroom built in feature for stitching, do I loose much? i like my results, maybe your advice will convice me to use something else
Forrest Tanaka correctly describes when rotating around the nodal point is correct. In his video he describes doing so in his dining room, there any misalignment matters a great deal.
Outdoors, level the camera properly, adjust shift *TS-E lenses). Ideally, you do need a panning mechanism atop the tripod head, those built into so many heads below the leveling mechanism are useless). Sunwayfoto has some heads with the panning at the top, I use a cheap iShoot panning thingy. Without that, you have to level the tripod itself and that is a seriously imprecise chore.
Exactly what I came here to say. I was like, "HUH???"
Lol exactly..I was just about to type the same.
I love seeing how photographers respond when they have their ideas challenged, or are presented with new or different information than what they currently accept as the "correct" way to do things.
Hey Serge, I have Lightroom mobile on my chromebook and it doesn't have several features that Lightroom Classic has including a panorama stitcher. What is the best panorama stitcher app android? Thanks
Good question I never do panorama on my phone to be honest but let me know if you find a good one!
@@SergeRamelliPhotography I found this article online and am going to give it a shot: photo.wondershare.com/photo-editor/best-photo-stitching-software.html
Lock your focus, iso, shutter speed, and aperture before shooting.
Absolutely:-)
Q: Is there an advantage to shooting panoramas with the camera at 90 degrees / portrait versus landscape ?
Not really, depends which look you are going for!
Very good information. However, I did notice that I could see a subtle delineation of each of the 6 images within your panorama. That's unfortunate.
I see okay! Thanks for telling me :-)
What is causing that artifacting in the sky? It looks like maybe vignetting or something, are you applying lens corrections before you do the pano?
Wow! I've been doing my hand held shots wrong all the time.
Not working with 29 photos to merge. Please help.
Whenever I try to make a panorama In Photoshop it starts creating the image, but then it just stops with no error message at a blank photoshop client. Its not a computer issue because my computer is PRETTY powerful!
Voila!!
It's a fast solution, but not a good one. This technique gives artefacts in the sky and a non uniform contrast in the panorama. If you ar a dilettant in great haste, this might be a good technique. Everyone eles will probably find a better way.
Manual focus,costant aperture (something like f/8),remote shutter release or self timer,mirror lockup,good sturdy tripod and nodal tripod head. ("Nodal ninja","Really right stuff","Jobu design","Manfrotto" and similar )Multi row panorama,is even better with right kind of nodal head.And,no offence,but there is too much smoke in L.A.Up here,in Vancouver,B.C.,Canada,looks like that,only when we having big forest fires.
windows???
its impossible to delete the "click here to subscribe..." button because of the infobutton in the corner... annoying
+Nakatosh You can turn off annotation. Just go to the settings icon on the TH-cam player.
+Shahaaim you are right. I know that. But i have TH-camrs with really interesting annotations. Not like the most YT: subscribe here ...and sign-up there...over and over again. I would forget that i turned it off and miss some really interesting links or changes. it happened before :)
Nakatosh Hahah! You're exactly right! That is the same reason I don't turn it off. But in this case I would just manually 'close' the annotation by clicking the 'x' button on the top left corner of the annotation.
+Shahaaim this is what i am normaly do. But, for any reason, my "x" button is on the top right corner of the annotation. In the same corner is another icon "i" for info. Everytime i try to click the annotation away, i must pass the "i" button. so the x disapear immediately.
+Nakatosh Agreed...VERY annoying. I tried to do this as well.
i want hircut free softewear for ps
So the best, cheapest option might be to use your thumb, stabilised on a tripod that you already own..?
:-)
what is ninja nodel ??
ninja model tripod check it out on internet it’s a type of tripodb
tu devrais adopter l'exposition à droite pour de meilleurs clichés ;-)
Or Hdr.
I ham ze French photographer oui oui verri sophisitcated :P
It's hard to tell a French accent eh...
Just messing with you Mr. Serge :D
The reason your hand held image is so distorted is because you're not using cylindrical projection as you are with the rest, you appear to be using planar.
boing615 I don't know what he's using, but if he'll swap to cilindrical that pano is going to be as goog as the one shooted with the expensive ninja head!
The only question is: where to buy Nodal Ninja 5? There is no one even in the company's store... Will it be good with NN4 with RD16 rotator?
+Valeriy Shevtsov try this one www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=838676&gclid=Cj0KEQiAtri0BRDLoaCF95e7o_sBEiQA_pgRQ4JhufwLJ3NiCSCGLnpFNYfp7sfnbr4y05vFNfK1a3MaAhci8P8HAQ&Q=&ap=y&m=Y&is=REG&A=details
+charly3091 Thank you, I already bought a NN4 with RD-16 rotator, which is mostly the same.
why not alter the exposure on each picture as you go along then you would have an accurate rendition light to darker or whatever is there , b
Serge, ton point nodal est faux ! A cette distance ta tête panoramique ne te sert strictement à rien, les logiciels actuels nous permettent maintenant de shooter même à main levée, sans tête panoramique. Plus on se trouve loin du sujet, plus les logiciels assemblent sans problème. Par contre, une chose est sûre et certaine, vu comme tu as réglé ton point nodal, dans un endroit exigu comme un salon ou pire comme dans une chambre, je peux t'assurer que le logiciel ne l'assemblera pas du tout car tu n'es pas parallèle au point nodal...
Good tutorials, but PLEASE cut it out with the "bonjour Mesdames et Messieurss"!!! It is really annoying...
Pas de tout
Le français est une langue si fantastique. Serge devrait faire tout un tutoriel en français
Noel Hanigan if Serge does that, he will vastly exceed my recollections of the French I learned half a century ago.
Serge Ramelli I like the intro's to your videos. 👍👍
Come on man..you didn’t even try to balance the shots with your hand……
Poor advises
I didn't learn anything 😂
Sorry, there are so many mistakes in this tutorial that I only can give a thumbs down