Shop regs - bit.ly/2wIox6C So regulators? Which regulator did you end up with? What was the reason you chose that regulator? Let us know in the comments below. _ *Useful Links* Shop - www.simplyscuba.com/ Daily Scuba News - bit.ly/39vFkYX Scuba Advice - bit.ly/2SHYiEN Friday Feature - bit.ly/2SsKGhG Deco Stop Podcast - bit.ly/2whcmh7 Teespring - bit.ly/2uLRoGz
I have had this suunto "teno" set for like two decades... just reacently started to think updating. What would you recommend? Living in northern europe. 😄
I finally made the plunge on an Aqua Lung Len3nd Elite. I loved the adjustability and ease of breathing. I’m not a cold water diver, but I love the option. It has the added bonus of looking awesome!
Years ago, I dove with Scubapro gear. Now getting back into diving, I was in the market for new gear. While I never had any problems with Scubapro, I was open to other brands. Researching until my eyes were bleeding😂, I narrowed my choices down to Scubapro and Aqualung. While I didn't have much hope for scuba sales for this past black friday, I still waiting to see them. What sealed the deal for purchases was Aqualung gear was on sale and Scubapro🙄 was not. I ended up buying the Aqualung Legend MBS setup with Octo. Also ordered the Axiom BC and a few other items. All said and done, I saved around $550./$600US.
I've been using my U.S. Divers - Aqualung Conshelf XIV for years, manufacture date is in 1981, I've always serviced it myself. Think for it being 40 years old and cost me the grand total of £10, it's done me well. It may just be a placebo affect because it's mine, but I've yet to try another regulator that delivers the same silky smooth air delivery. I'd highly recommend it (I believe Aqualung still make it) to anyone. For a bit of a history lesson, the Conshelf 14 was the original regulator used on the early U.S. Divers Bandmasks, and overtime (with little alterations) became the Kirby Morgan 350 Superflow on the commercial hats.
I have a conshelf as well I used for years until I got my Scubapro mk15 D400 in the 90s still using it to this day breaths fantastic, my conshelf is my pony reg , no complaints about either
@@scooterdogg7580 Good to hear man! It was only last year I bought a set of Poseidon Jetstreams for deeper dives. I purchased a set of Poseidon Cyklons for my partner as she is now learning to dive, as we are going to Egypt to do some diving, I'm afraid I'd get turned away or have to borrow the boats regulators if I rocked up with a self-serviced 42 year old Conshelf 14. I still use my Conshelf for shallow dives in a more basic set up. I still regard it as one of the best regulators I've used.
I am diving my first regulators which I've had for over ten years now. A Scubapro MK10 with a G250. Both of these were given to me by a friend who got them from a police auction. (Prescott PD upgraded equipment.) I would upgrade except that every single dive shop I've entered sings praise of the G250. If/when you find a regulator you love, stick with it. You'll save money and have a regulator you love. If you service it regularly, you'll have it for life. Use the money you save for a dive trip.
The only backup gauge that I think matters is pressure, but I don't really feel strongly about that. If my computer dies, my dive is over. Assuming I'm responsible about gas management (which I am), I will have plenty of gas to surface, which I will do immediately. That said, there's not a big downside in having a backup pressure gauge, so why not. But I can base my safety stop depth and time on my buddy's depth gauge/computer.
Apeks XTX200 and Poseidon Cyklon 300 for cold water dives. Apeks because of the canonical devotion of some of my dive buddies, but I must say that the streamlined shape of the Poseidon primary is really growing on me. The Apeks once froze up on me, but these things do happen... One dive store owner once I told me it was idiotic to mix manufacturers, but I figure that having different mechanical designs lowers the chances of encountering a repeated maintenance error...
I picked up a demo model Apeks XTX50 for 1/3 retail cost at my dive shop when they had their annual used and demo sale. I'm knew to diving and had seen in the facebook groups Apeks is a reliable brand that can carry you into tek diving. After talking to several of the shop personnel who happened to be instructors and tek divers I discovered they were all using Apeks gear and highly recommended grabbing that as that was an unbelievable steal of a price. It had been handled but hadn't even seen water. Had it serviced and also bought an Apeks AT20 also for a little under half retail and had the AT20 2nd stage moved to the XTX50 for the alternate 2nd stage... Now that I've been diving with it I love these Apeks regs. The AT20 likes to freeflow a little easy sometimes entering the water but thats a minor nuisance. I'll see if it can be adjusted at all next time I have it serviced
Just few days ago I've had my new reg set delivered. SP Mk25evo with 620ti 2nd stage. It sure looks great and feels mighty powerful... based on garage testing. Have to wait a bit to get in ocean but we have a pool session next tuesday. 😁
I decided to go with a long hose setup from Apeks. First stage: Apeks MTX Primary second stage: Apeks MTX on a 210cm rubber hose Secondary second stage: Apeks MTX-V with a 90° elbow on a 65cm rubber hose SPG: Apeks black dial brass and glass BCD: Stainless steel backplate with an Apeks WTX-D40 PSD wing 'Puter: Shearwater Perdix
I dive Mares Mr22 Abyss, NO KNOBS or valves, Never free flows, gives more air then i need even when breathing fast. I tried scubapro 2nd stages, and i feel it delivers less air than the abyss, and it free flows regularly...
I am new to diving and am taking my open water this coming Sat. My question is should I use their rental Dive Regulator or should I buy one. I did notice that during my 3 pool classes, some Dive Regulator seemed to be easier to breath.
Hey, thanks for the video, but it fell short without actually showing the regulators you were talking about. Your hand gestures didn't quite fill the gap. I still have no idea which is which by sight. Which seems like a no-brainer because all the regulators were right behind you! Otherwise, you make some great videos. I enjoy watching. Thanks!
I bought Apeks Flight regs because most of my diving was overseas. Now I'm diving more in the UK so I'm thinking of buying a DS4 first stage that I can swap out for the Flight first stage when I'm diving over here.
10:15 false my dive instructor gave me an old school aqua lung conch style second stage on. A necklace and I run a scuba pro c350 with a mark11 first I do plan to get a scubapro a700 use that for my primary and then use my c350 as a 2nd
Both nine and a half bar intermediate so they will work together fine. As I said before in this sue everyone world it makes sense for a service center to say fit like to like and then NO comebacks. Just the way it is now days.
I'm pretty sure most second stages will work with most first stages, but since manufacturers aren't going to test every possible combination, they tell you to only put parts together they've tested and confirmed worked. If you really want, you can mix and match whatever you like, but if something goes wrong, you're on your own. Dive insurance won't pay out since you went against manufacturer recommendation. Warranties will be denied because you went against manufacturer recommendation. So you're risking massive expenses by going your own way. Also, why would you? You're buying the 1st and 2nd stage together at the very least, and most likely a Stage 3 kit is available for your preferred reg. And if you're putting together your own regulator set from different parts, you're either using two primary second stages, or you're putting together a twin-set or sidemount set, in which case each second stage has its own first stage. When would there ever be a reason to hook up a ScubaPro A700 to an Atomic Aquatics T3 first stage, or an Apeks MTX-R to a Mares 15X?
"DIN is standard for most places now" - Yeah that isn't my experience. Outside of outfits that support tech diving I find getting a DIN tank as being a special request and in some cases impossible to get. The response I got from one operator in Asia when I asked about DIN was "We have an adapter."
Yeah but thats the thing. You get din almost everywhere (my experience) and the plsces you dont you get an adapter. With Int you cant convert so if they have din tanks youre stuck with renting.
@@simon1234567ful Except outside of Europe, DIN only are almost unheard of. For the traveling diver yoke is the way to go. When I move away from home, and my personal steel tanks, I'll probably convert my recreational rig back to yoke. I'll keep my tech rigs DIN.
@@Teampegleg red sea is all din europe all din south americas are mostly din from my experience. Cuba also had din tanks. A lot of places in asia have din. Ive got a din reg and ill never own anything else. Might get an adapter if needed. So far thats not been the case
@@simon1234567ful That hasn't been my experience in Mexico, Japan, or the Caribbean islands I've visited. DIN tanks are either not available or it requires a special request. The default tank valve is yoke. As much as I also feel that DIN is superior having to use an adapter is worse, as now you've got the worse of both worlds.
Your regulator shouldn't be pressurized when you're flying. It should be in a bag, and not connected to a cylinder. Airlines don't allow pressurized containers on their planes. So, whatever altitude, air can move freely through your regs and won't affect their performance or the seals.
Mares MR22 Abyss. My dive buddy also dive master and one of the instructors dive the same setup. I listened to what everyone said and choose to go with what others who dive with me use. That way if an issue does come I’ll have 3+ people with the same setup as I do and out of them someone will more then likely have what I need and I may have what they need. That way hopefully save a dive. At least that is my thoughts on it. I have used rental gear I do not know what brands but nothing is better then your own gear. No matter the brand name. Excluding the 29.99$ no name kit that only can buy off line from that one site that no one has ever heard of. Just my opinion. Great videos
Thanks for the video, however would have been much more helpful to demonstrate some of the differences with all the regulators behind you so for those of us that don't could see what you are talking about.
You can't put a different brand 2nd stage on the first stage? I never knew that! All of my 1st and 2nd stages are Apeks so not an issue for me, but that was not something I knew.
I think thats more of a cant get sued thing, in the world we live in now. But certainly not all go together. Posidon jetstreams and some Oceanics worked on 10 bar which can make most other octo;s freeflow. When I did a service course at Oceanic, I was told Dont manufacture anything. You are not insured to make things. Fit our bits and if there is a problem , we are insured against it.
@@Graham19951 having rewatched the video following your comment I just don't think he's correct. Remember those awful combined octo and inflator? There's no way that everyone who used them had the same brand 1st stage. Think about it, the 2nd stage has no idea what 1st stage they're attached to. They just get supplied with intermediate pressure gas. That intermediate pressure supplied by the first stage can be varied. So the brand can't matter.
@@clarkeysam Hi They cn all be made to work together, but a posidon jetstream is what is called an upstream reg, most if not all other regs are downstream regs ( I could even have this the wrong way around ive been out of it for ten years) The jetstream relies on air pressure to stop air entering the second stage, other regs rely on a spring.The intermediate pressure of a jetstream is higher to keep it sealed. This has the efect of making most other second stages free flow. As the man said you can adjust a second stage to overcome this , but it will be harder to breathe through. Divers these days want the lightest breathe possible and this is easy to set up , but the down side is the reg will freeflow very easy. Commercial scallop divers that I worked with, hated when I changed their filters as they preffered to have to suck the air out. Differant but hard to argue with guys that have done thirty thousand dives plus, and are still doing it almost every day. I really enjoyed servicing diving gear, I miss it a lot. PS The A P Valves Auto air, in my opinion the best BCD attached octo, Is rugged and dependible , but not as easy to breathe through as your regulator. That makes it able to fit to anything.
i have a question. so i am a training rescue diver but i still use the shops equipment i want to buy my own gear but the guys in shop all say this brand is the best or this is best note: my fellow dive masters all use different brands am confused on what brand to get
Get somthing that fits your style of diving and the enviorment you dive in first, of course considering your budget. Dont fall for that brand fetischsim, its not based on any real evidence. All major brands produce decent gear and the care and proper service is what makes the differnce
My favorite has to be Scuba pro, though I’ve had great experience with Zeagle, and Sherwood. A good friend of mine (also a rescue diver) loves Mares but I have no dives on it. All in all Scubapro is my favorite.
@@dxtrsinned2455 Correction: All major brands produce excellent gear. You can't go wrong with any of the models by any major brand. You can buy the cheapest model, and it will be extremely reliable and perform extremely well. It doesn't matter if it's Apeks, Aqualung, Atomic Aquatics, DiveRite, Mares, Poseidon, ScubaPro, XDeep, or Zeagle. When you pay more, you pay for features. An extra HP port, an extra IP port, a swivel turret, environmental seal, balanced stages, exotic lightweight materials, a certain color/look/finish, a Venturi lever, cracking resistance control, different hoses, a different mouthpiece, reusable zipties, or a swivel joint. The minimum requirement for a 1st stage is 1 HP and 3 IP ports. Most will come with 2 HP and 4 IP ports, which will support a drysuit and air integration. The deluxe versions will add a 5th IP port for flexible hose routing configurations, but if you're only diving single cylinders, you don't need a 5th port. Most second stages come with a Venturi lever, but you don't really need it unless you're out of shape, or expect to be exerting yourself underwater. Cracking resistance control is a gimmick. You set it once, and never touch it again, and you've only set it because it's there. It was working fine before you fiddled with it. Titanium is an extravagance. If you want a lightweight regulator, you can also go for a travel regulator, which will cost you a fraction of what you pay for titanium. If you're ever planning to dive in water under 10°C, you're going to want a chrome plated brass regulator anyway. Balanced regulators are great if you're diving deep, or you plan on breathing your cylinder down to the last 10 bar. Otherwise you don't even need that. Yeah, some regulators breathe a little smoother than others, but if you're only ever breathing from your own regulator, you're not going to know the difference anyway. All that being said, if you've got the cash, and you're moving beyond recreational diving, you can buy all the features you can think of, and enjoy your super deluxe high performing regulator. But if you don't you can rest assured that whatever regulator you bought was an excellent choice.
Lol. Anyone watching a video like this has little idea of the differences you talk about without literally ANY visuals. This could be an audio podcast if it's just a voice.
don't get hung up on warm water cold water nonsense I live and dive in north east Canada ive yet to see a significant difference between so called cold water or ice regulators and standard regs in cold water regardless of gimmicks ( heat syncs, air bleeds,environmental kits etc
Shop regs - bit.ly/2wIox6C
So regulators? Which regulator did you end up with? What was the reason you chose that regulator? Let us know in the comments below.
_
*Useful Links*
Shop - www.simplyscuba.com/
Daily Scuba News - bit.ly/39vFkYX
Scuba Advice - bit.ly/2SHYiEN
Friday Feature - bit.ly/2SsKGhG
Deco Stop Podcast - bit.ly/2whcmh7
Teespring - bit.ly/2uLRoGz
I have had this suunto "teno" set for like two decades... just reacently started to think updating. What would you recommend? Living in northern europe. 😄
it would be more informatrive if you showed us the different types of 1st stages , its all behind you , thank you for the awesome channel
Maybe didn't want to make publicity for any brand, just to stay neutral.
I finally made the plunge on an Aqua Lung Len3nd Elite. I loved the adjustability and ease of breathing. I’m not a cold water diver, but I love the option. It has the added bonus of looking awesome!
I just bought one today. My first reg set.
Years ago, I dove with Scubapro gear. Now getting back into diving, I was in the market for new gear. While I never had any problems with Scubapro, I was open to other brands. Researching until my eyes were bleeding😂, I narrowed my choices down to Scubapro and Aqualung. While I didn't have much hope for scuba sales for this past black friday, I still waiting to see them. What sealed the deal for purchases was Aqualung gear was on sale and Scubapro🙄 was not. I ended up buying the Aqualung Legend MBS setup with Octo. Also ordered the Axiom BC and a few other items. All said and done, I saved around $550./$600US.
I've been using my U.S. Divers - Aqualung Conshelf XIV for years, manufacture date is in 1981, I've always serviced it myself. Think for it being 40 years old and cost me the grand total of £10, it's done me well.
It may just be a placebo affect because it's mine, but I've yet to try another regulator that delivers the same silky smooth air delivery.
I'd highly recommend it (I believe Aqualung still make it) to anyone.
For a bit of a history lesson, the Conshelf 14 was the original regulator used on the early U.S. Divers Bandmasks, and overtime (with little alterations) became the Kirby Morgan 350 Superflow on the commercial hats.
I have a conshelf as well I used for years until I got my Scubapro mk15 D400 in the 90s still using it to this day breaths fantastic, my conshelf is my pony reg , no complaints about either
@@scooterdogg7580 Good to hear man! It was only last year I bought a set of Poseidon Jetstreams for deeper dives. I purchased a set of Poseidon Cyklons for my partner as she is now learning to dive, as we are going to Egypt to do some diving, I'm afraid I'd get turned away or have to borrow the boats regulators if I rocked up with a self-serviced 42 year old Conshelf 14.
I still use my Conshelf for shallow dives in a more basic set up. I still regard it as one of the best regulators I've used.
I am diving my first regulators which I've had for over ten years now. A Scubapro MK10 with a G250. Both of these were given to me by a friend who got them from a police auction. (Prescott PD upgraded equipment.) I would upgrade except that every single dive shop I've entered sings praise of the G250. If/when you find a regulator you love, stick with it. You'll save money and have a regulator you love. If you service it regularly, you'll have it for life. Use the money you save for a dive trip.
I went with the SP Mk25 EVO/A700 Black Tech (DIN)
Boom mate I have same exact bit of kit
The only backup gauge that I think matters is pressure, but I don't really feel strongly about that. If my computer dies, my dive is over. Assuming I'm responsible about gas management (which I am), I will have plenty of gas to surface, which I will do immediately. That said, there's not a big downside in having a backup pressure gauge, so why not. But I can base my safety stop depth and time on my buddy's depth gauge/computer.
Apeks XTX200 and Poseidon Cyklon 300 for cold water dives. Apeks because of the canonical devotion of some of my dive buddies, but I must say that the streamlined shape of the Poseidon primary is really growing on me. The Apeks once froze up on me, but these things do happen...
One dive store owner once I told me it was idiotic to mix manufacturers, but I figure that having different mechanical designs lowers the chances of encountering a repeated maintenance error...
I have 3 xtx50 and my wife has an xtx50 too. Our back mount setup uses the apeks egress.
I picked up a demo model Apeks XTX50 for 1/3 retail cost at my dive shop when they had their annual used and demo sale. I'm knew to diving and had seen in the facebook groups Apeks is a reliable brand that can carry you into tek diving. After talking to several of the shop personnel who happened to be instructors and tek divers I discovered they were all using Apeks gear and highly recommended grabbing that as that was an unbelievable steal of a price. It had been handled but hadn't even seen water. Had it serviced and also bought an Apeks AT20 also for a little under half retail and had the AT20 2nd stage moved to the XTX50 for the alternate 2nd stage... Now that I've been diving with it I love these Apeks regs. The AT20 likes to freeflow a little easy sometimes entering the water but thats a minor nuisance. I'll see if it can be adjusted at all next time I have it serviced
Just few days ago I've had my new reg set delivered. SP Mk25evo with 620ti 2nd stage. It sure looks great and feels mighty powerful... based on garage testing. Have to wait a bit to get in ocean but we have a pool session next tuesday. 😁
I decided to go with a long hose setup from Apeks.
First stage: Apeks MTX
Primary second stage: Apeks MTX on a 210cm rubber hose
Secondary second stage: Apeks MTX-V with a 90° elbow on a 65cm rubber hose
SPG: Apeks black dial brass and glass
BCD: Stainless steel backplate with an Apeks WTX-D40 PSD wing
'Puter: Shearwater Perdix
My current setup is the MTX R for my twins. Iam currently thinking abut xtx 50 for my stages
I dive Mares Mr22 Abyss, NO KNOBS or valves, Never free flows, gives more air then i need even when breathing fast. I tried scubapro 2nd stages, and i feel it delivers less air than the abyss, and it free flows regularly...
I am new to diving and am taking my open water this coming Sat. My question is should I use their rental Dive Regulator or should I buy one. I did notice that during my 3 pool classes, some Dive Regulator seemed to be easier to breath.
Apeks xtx50: was my instructor's recommendation and i have to say, that i absolutely love it! Extremly easy to breath from and super comfortable!
Hey, thanks for the video, but it fell short without actually showing the regulators you were talking about. Your hand gestures didn't quite fill the gap. I still have no idea which is which by sight. Which seems like a no-brainer because all the regulators were right behind you! Otherwise, you make some great videos. I enjoy watching. Thanks!
What is the definition of cold water ? Temperature is there a graph
Scubapro Mk10+R109 and a Poseidon Jetstream kit, i don't think i need anything fancier. :)
My local dive shop sponsors oceanic. I decided on the delta 5. I have used it for 15 dives in one season and I’m very happy
Lol y’all talking about seasons but I live in Florida
I bought Apeks Flight regs because most of my diving was overseas. Now I'm diving more in the UK so I'm thinking of buying a DS4 first stage that I can swap out for the Flight first stage when I'm diving over here.
How do you feel about Tecline regulators?
Brilliant and comprehensive! Thank you
Thankyou, you have solved most of my questions!
10:15 false my dive instructor gave me an old school aqua lung conch style second stage on. A necklace and I run a scuba pro c350 with a mark11 first I do plan to get a scubapro a700 use that for my primary and then use my c350 as a 2nd
Both nine and a half bar intermediate so they will work together fine. As I said before in this sue everyone world it makes sense for a service center to say fit like to like and then NO comebacks. Just the way it is now days.
I'm pretty sure most second stages will work with most first stages, but since manufacturers aren't going to test every possible combination, they tell you to only put parts together they've tested and confirmed worked.
If you really want, you can mix and match whatever you like, but if something goes wrong, you're on your own. Dive insurance won't pay out since you went against manufacturer recommendation. Warranties will be denied because you went against manufacturer recommendation. So you're risking massive expenses by going your own way.
Also, why would you? You're buying the 1st and 2nd stage together at the very least, and most likely a Stage 3 kit is available for your preferred reg. And if you're putting together your own regulator set from different parts, you're either using two primary second stages, or you're putting together a twin-set or sidemount set, in which case each second stage has its own first stage. When would there ever be a reason to hook up a ScubaPro A700 to an Atomic Aquatics T3 first stage, or an Apeks MTX-R to a Mares 15X?
Scubapro mk17 first stage with S620 Ti
"DIN is standard for most places now" - Yeah that isn't my experience. Outside of outfits that support tech diving I find getting a DIN tank as being a special request and in some cases impossible to get. The response I got from one operator in Asia when I asked about DIN was "We have an adapter."
Yeah but thats the thing. You get din almost everywhere (my experience) and the plsces you dont you get an adapter. With Int you cant convert so if they have din tanks youre stuck with renting.
@@simon1234567ful Except outside of Europe, DIN only are almost unheard of. For the traveling diver yoke is the way to go. When I move away from home, and my personal steel tanks, I'll probably convert my recreational rig back to yoke. I'll keep my tech rigs DIN.
@@Teampegleg red sea is all din europe all din south americas are mostly din from my experience. Cuba also had din tanks. A lot of places in asia have din. Ive got a din reg and ill never own anything else. Might get an adapter if needed. So far thats not been the case
I will always get a din reg becouse the adapter to yoke is like 20€ and Most places I dived have din
@@simon1234567ful That hasn't been my experience in Mexico, Japan, or the Caribbean islands I've visited. DIN tanks are either not available or it requires a special request. The default tank valve is yoke. As much as I also feel that DIN is superior having to use an adapter is worse, as now you've got the worse of both worlds.
Apex Tek50 for Doubles , only folks that would talk to me about doubles Oceanic Z3 for recreational ,dive shop recommended it
if you travel often with altitude changes or alot of flying,. Do regs need more often servicing?
Your regulator shouldn't be pressurized when you're flying. It should be in a bag, and not connected to a cylinder. Airlines don't allow pressurized containers on their planes. So, whatever altitude, air can move freely through your regs and won't affect their performance or the seals.
Mares MR22 Abyss. My dive buddy also dive master and one of the instructors dive the same setup. I listened to what everyone said and choose to go with what others who dive with me use. That way if an issue does come I’ll have 3+ people with the same setup as I do and out of them someone will more then likely have what I need and I may have what they need. That way hopefully save a dive. At least that is my thoughts on it. I have used rental gear I do not know what brands but nothing is better then your own gear. No matter the brand name. Excluding the 29.99$ no name kit that only can buy off line from that one site that no one has ever heard of. Just my opinion. Great videos
MR 22 abyss, as good as it gets. Bullet proof.
The Mares Abyss is a gorgeous piece of kit. Well chosen.
I agree with comments below. He should hold the reg and show the levers and other parts.
9 ads 😳😂 ok for you I watch them. I just bought myself an Mk25 with a700 cant go wrong with that or am I wrong ?
Gotta make some money
i got myself an mk17 evo with g260 😁
Can you go wrong with the top of the line from ScubaPro? I can't see how?
Thanks for the video, however would have been much more helpful to demonstrate some of the differences with all the regulators behind you so for those of us that don't could see what you are talking about.
Apeks XL4+ very light weight, very compact, environmentally sealed, cold water rated, and white! What’s not to love.....
interesting but quite abstract without pictures support.
How much does it cost to do a full service on first and second stage on a basic one
$75 USD last time for me ($25 ea for parts and $25 labor)
@@pbillings808 yo thx 😊
You can't put a different brand 2nd stage on the first stage? I never knew that! All of my 1st and 2nd stages are Apeks so not an issue for me, but that was not something I knew.
I think thats more of a cant get sued thing, in the world we live in now. But certainly not all go together. Posidon jetstreams and some Oceanics worked on 10 bar which can make most other octo;s freeflow. When I did a service course at Oceanic, I was told Dont manufacture anything. You are not insured to make things. Fit our bits and if there is a problem , we are insured against it.
@@Graham19951 having rewatched the video following your comment I just don't think he's correct. Remember those awful combined octo and inflator? There's no way that everyone who used them had the same brand 1st stage.
Think about it, the 2nd stage has no idea what 1st stage they're attached to. They just get supplied with intermediate pressure gas. That intermediate pressure supplied by the first stage can be varied. So the brand can't matter.
@@clarkeysam Hi They cn all be made to work together, but a posidon jetstream is what is called an upstream reg, most if not all other regs are downstream regs ( I could even have this the wrong way around ive been out of it for ten years) The jetstream relies on air pressure to stop air entering the second stage, other regs rely on a spring.The intermediate pressure of a jetstream is higher to keep it sealed. This has the efect of making most other second stages free flow. As the man said you can adjust a second stage to overcome this , but it will be harder to breathe through. Divers these days want the lightest breathe possible and this is easy to set up , but the down side is the reg will freeflow very easy. Commercial scallop divers that I worked with, hated when I changed their filters as they preffered to have to suck the air out. Differant but hard to argue with guys that have done thirty thousand dives plus, and are still doing it almost every day. I really enjoyed servicing diving gear, I miss it a lot. PS The A P Valves Auto air, in my opinion the best BCD attached octo, Is rugged and dependible , but not as easy to breathe through as your regulator. That makes it able to fit to anything.
@@Graham19951 yes but then they should say "if you have jetstream regs you can't mix brands, but all the others you can".
Scubapro MK25 EVO/ G260
Scubapro Mk 5
I look for Apex written on it 😏
Where’s the b-roll?
you really should have some examples of the stuff you are talking about. Just to give that new diver an example of it. Otherwise aweosme video
i have a question. so i am a training rescue diver but i still use the shops equipment i want to buy my own gear but the guys in shop all say this brand is the best or this is best note: my fellow dive masters all use different brands am confused on what brand to get
Get somthing that fits your style of diving and the enviorment you dive in first, of course considering your budget. Dont fall for that brand fetischsim, its not based on any real evidence. All major brands produce decent gear and the care and proper service is what makes the differnce
@@dxtrsinned2455 thanks alot
My favorite has to be Scuba pro, though I’ve had great experience with Zeagle, and Sherwood. A good friend of mine (also a rescue diver) loves Mares but I have no dives on it. All in all Scubapro is my favorite.
@@dxtrsinned2455 Correction: All major brands produce excellent gear. You can't go wrong with any of the models by any major brand. You can buy the cheapest model, and it will be extremely reliable and perform extremely well. It doesn't matter if it's Apeks, Aqualung, Atomic Aquatics, DiveRite, Mares, Poseidon, ScubaPro, XDeep, or Zeagle.
When you pay more, you pay for features. An extra HP port, an extra IP port, a swivel turret, environmental seal, balanced stages, exotic lightweight materials, a certain color/look/finish, a Venturi lever, cracking resistance control, different hoses, a different mouthpiece, reusable zipties, or a swivel joint.
The minimum requirement for a 1st stage is 1 HP and 3 IP ports. Most will come with 2 HP and 4 IP ports, which will support a drysuit and air integration.
The deluxe versions will add a 5th IP port for flexible hose routing configurations, but if you're only diving single cylinders, you don't need a 5th port.
Most second stages come with a Venturi lever, but you don't really need it unless you're out of shape, or expect to be exerting yourself underwater. Cracking resistance control is a gimmick. You set it once, and never touch it again, and you've only set it because it's there. It was working fine before you fiddled with it.
Titanium is an extravagance. If you want a lightweight regulator, you can also go for a travel regulator, which will cost you a fraction of what you pay for titanium. If you're ever planning to dive in water under 10°C, you're going to want a chrome plated brass regulator anyway.
Balanced regulators are great if you're diving deep, or you plan on breathing your cylinder down to the last 10 bar. Otherwise you don't even need that.
Yeah, some regulators breathe a little smoother than others, but if you're only ever breathing from your own regulator, you're not going to know the difference anyway.
All that being said, if you've got the cash, and you're moving beyond recreational diving, you can buy all the features you can think of, and enjoy your super deluxe high performing regulator. But if you don't you can rest assured that whatever regulator you bought was an excellent choice.
I wonder if you can get coronavirus through rental regulators...
neomasterc not really
if it's on the rental gear everyone at the shop will have it so you wont have to worry about getting it from the gear...
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Newbies are watching this and we're dumb so pictures would help. Ijs
Lol. Anyone watching a video like this has little idea of the differences you talk about without literally ANY visuals. This could be an audio podcast if it's just a voice.
don't get hung up on warm water cold water nonsense I live and dive in north east Canada ive yet to see a significant difference between so called cold water or ice regulators and standard regs in cold water regardless of gimmicks ( heat syncs, air bleeds,environmental kits etc
Video is too long