A/C Leak Testing and Repair part 1 - 95 Jeep
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ย. 2024
- Soap and Water, an air compressor and manifold gauges are all you will need to find 95% of the leaks in an A/C system. The vehicle being used for this video is a 1995 Jeep Cherokee but the tests shown can be applied to any AC system.
Symptoms
A/C blows warm air
A/C compressor does not engage
Tests Shown
how to determine the cause of in-op A/C compressor
how to use a set of A/C manifold gauges
how to locate an A/C system leak with soap and water
how to use compressed air to find an A/C leak
A/C line identification
Tools used
ATD Tools 3695 Deluxe Dual Aluminum A/C Manifold Gauge Set
www.jbtoolsale...
FJC 6909 3.0 CFM Vacuum Pump
www.jbtoolsale...
FJC 9281 Vacuum Pump & Gauge Set Assortment
www.jbtoolsale...
Bostitch BTFP02012 6 Gallon Air Compressor 150PSI
www.jbtoolsale...
Meguiars M9911 Spray Bottle W/Sprayer
www.jbtoolsale...
Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash 64 oz
www.jbtoolsale...
Bayco NSR-2166R Multipurpose 66 Led Rechargeable Work Light - Red
www.jbtoolsale...
Playlist
HVAC and Cooling systems troubleshooting
• A/C and Cooling System...
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
That's me brother, I drive older vehicles and with your help, keep them running. Nice set of gauges. Poor Eric and flip flops. I like the air check. If we weren't here you could have found that leak in 5 minutes. Your going to be busy. Two channels, the forum and now the RV and jeep stuff. Hey, I'm all for it, but pace yourself. :) Great information Paul, thank you.
My Cherokee cracked the clutch also. I made a low clearance puller and pulled it off, installed a used one from the junkyard. That was 100,000 miles ago. The jeep has 380,000 miles on it
Salvage yards are like Christmas time. Looking forward to seeing you & James together...somehow you get him to do most of the work. Family is fun & spending time together is priceless!
Watching your videos have become addictive. As a retired ASE mechanic who changed profession in 1979 and became a general and electrical contractor, I need to learn to about the new technology in the automotive industry. If for nothing else to repair my own cars. When I started learning about auto mechanics in 1967, there were breather tube on engines to dump the bypass fumes to atmosphere!
Your videos have been very informational for me. To a point that I looked into going back to school at Rosedale. However, it is not practical due to where I live (Los Angeles) and associated cost of Rosedale college.
Thanks again for taking the time to teach us.
I FOUND the leak on a 1999 mercury villager and 2003 ford mustang using my little tire compressor that only put up 100 psi. I glue a tire Schrader valve to the yellow filler hose, it works great . THANK YOU SO MUCH for your idea ScannerDanner...
Dear. Mr. Danner “we” give you grief because we love you and want you to be safe.
More importantly, you set an example for people who mostly are learning automotive repair from your videos. I would guess that most have not been introduced to the safety instructions and procedures sessions in a school setting. I saw in the Rosedale shop video that every student was wearing safety glasses. I bet school and their insurance company is enforcing that.
In this video, the hoses on the asphalt is a no-no. A very small amount of dirt can damage you’re newly repaired A/C system. You are better than doing it under a “shade tree”. Thank you for your teaching. It is a win, win situation. We learn from you while TH-cam helps you make more videos.
really glad your doing A/c videos man..I'm in Texas and do at least 4 A/c jobs a week.i just started my own shop and your videos help sooooo much..thanks agian..
Thanks so much. Very encouraging to hear these types of comments.
Tech teacher as well, mobile plant though. I mostly use nitrogen for leak testing A/C because we have it but I like the use of air under the circumstances you were under. As long as a new drier goes on, no harm done.
I really respect the fact you cover your thought process as the job unfolds. There are a number of ways to skin a cat and as long as the customer gets what they pay for no harm is done. I really like your work.
Thanks man!
Brilliant! Brilliant! Deduction plus reason is always the sum for problem solving! Most a/c systems are quite scary to the average shade tree mechanic. I know some pros scared to tackle what they do not understand. You have a gift PAUL! Thanks for sharing it with an old shade tree mechanic.
Thanks so much Larry!
Fantastic video Sir. Because of you I've become proficient at fuel pressure testing to the point where I recently diagnosed, replaced, and verified a fuel pump. Add to that evap testing and now A/C. Thank you so much for all of your efforts to share your valuable knowledge with us.
Had a chuckle when you had your little dig regarding you previous AC Video as you know I was one of those that commented on checking the power at the pump. But I think I also mentioned checking for power both sides of the pressure switch.
I think the essence for your inexperienced viewers is that there is more than one way to do things and different techs will take different approaches to find a problem. A jumper wire on the pressure switch wires will tell you if your clutch is working.
At the end of the day the same conclusion will be found regardless of which procedure you take first.
Concede that in this video the guages needed to be connected.
In finishing. I have stayed in this trade for 36 yrs and still enjoy fault finding and the thrill of trying different ways to find a problem.
Keep them coming Paul. You know I will be watching and look forward to making an argument in your coming videos.
Great Work
Just went out and pressurized my empty AC found the leak right away. Just replced the O-ring at the condensor coupler and it seems to be holding. Great video.
Just started my own Automotive Repair business and these cool tricks for AC in Texas are awesome thanks Paul
I totally get the nostalgia of the old heaps we used to drive as young techs but the first thing I thought when you opened that door was hope you're shots are up to date looks like the kinda car that " comes alive" when the heater comes on!
Hahahaha
Paul thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. You and SMA are my favorite YT channels. Thank you again sir, Jim
If I was a bettin' man, I'd say that nut on the discharge line to the condenser is going to take all the threads with it. Maybe not, since it spent most of it's life down south, and you are "down south" from me here in MA (lol), but up here, it's pretty much a given that you're going to be replacing a condenser whenever a vehicle is that age, or if there is that kind of rust on the nut.
Got a good story for you on wasting refrigerant ...
So, I redid the system in our '93 Volvo just a couple months ago. New compressor, suction line, custom made liquid line, accumulator, & orifice tube. R12 and mineral oil. :) Get the system charged up and running - blows 37° out the vents rolling down the road on recirc with the fan on high, at 80° or so ambient. System is GREAT! Well one muggy morning I go out and fire up the system to take some humidity out of the air, when I hear, PSSSSSSSSSSSSS! Ahh shit! A cloud of fog and oil is coming out of the cowl on the passenger side. My $30 a pound R12 going to the A/C gods in the sky. 3 pounds of it too! :( . By the time I started to run towards the house for my recovery pump, I realized I hadn't yet vacuumed my brand new recovery cylinder! Shit ... shit!! What an awful feeling watching all my money vaporize before my eyes.
My next thought was, WTF just happened??? Saw it was blasting out of the accumulator connection to the suction hose. I took the fitting apart expecting to see a mangled o-ring. Thing was mint - still covered with liquid snot (Nylog). So as I'm installing a new o-ring, just because, I just knew I was missing something. As soon as I got the nut tight, I found the problem - the hose was able to move in and out of the accumulator with the nut cranked down as far as I could without yanking the threads off, about 1/4"! WRONG ACCUMULATOR!!! Boy was I cursing up a storm after that one!
My windshield, underside of the hood, and firewall was all fluorescent yellow from the leak finder oil, lol! Still is!
What amazed me the most is, this system ran without a problem for 3 straight days! Even my Bacharach leak tester didn't pick up a single molecule leaking out of the joint! I figured something like that would leak out the instant I leak-tested the system with 134a (compressor not running, of course). That right there is a testament to Nylog. Stuff is AWESOME. Put that on all your threads and o-rings, and that system will be happy for a long, long time.
I may win TH-cam's "longest comment section post in history" award now ... :D
EDIT: forgot to mention my favorite leak solution. WINDEX. It sucks as a glass cleaner, but makes a great leak finder in A/C systems and tires. :)
Thanks! I enjoyed that long comment and appreciate 2 things to do...use Nylog and grab the windex when I go try find this leak Im sure I got!
Paul Danner is the best. This is my second year subscription. I am ready to join again in a few weeks.
Why have I not seen this video till now? It's a must watch.. Thanks Paul!
Great to see this low tech & great tips type of video. Looking forward to some more and also looking forward to a few RV videos (great idea). Thanks for all the effort that goes into these productions - your followers appreciate it.
Thanks Corky C!
The a/c system in my '87 Ranger is very simple to operate and maintain. There is an individual climate control system. Both passenger and driver side doors have a window crank. Turn counterclockwise to turn cooling on, clockwise to turn off. LOL Keep the vids coming Paul, always enjoy them!
I've got the compressed air tip from you. Never looked back since. From then on, empty system --> compressed air. Saved a lot of head aches and gas. Awesome! Thanks. ;-)
This was very informative. Being that I work in the Auto parts industry and we sell a lot of refrigerant to customers who just want a quick fix to their A/C problem. The information in this video will help me to help my customers not to waste money on refrigerant, and use the information above to find out why their A/C isn't working first.
I been wasting money on Freon to find leaks for years! Totally didn’t know you could use air good video wish I found this channel earlier!
Great video. Stuff like this is some of what many of us face in our home based DIY situations: while we are fixing one problem..... something else turns up bad. Looking forward to more fine "Jeep" videos. Plus, seeing what you end up with for a cordless ratchet.
I sold my snap on 3/8 14.4V and bought a Milwaukee 18v 3/8 impact with 2x 5Ah batteries, great tool and the batteries last forever! Easily a month and I work in a busy Toyota dealership. Can't recommend Milwaukee enough, got the battery ratchet on order, my colleague has one and it is worth its salt. I hate hand tools! Lazy I guess! Nice video Paul. Looking forward to some Jeep/RV stuff. Have a great weekend.
I have used my Milwaukee 1/4 ratchet for 3 yrs plus with 0 issues, love it! got another tech in my shop to get one, 0 battery issues with m12, I have 4 batteries as I have a 3/8 ratchet and fuel impact m12 love milwaukee tools, power in on parts with a 1/4 air ratchet, the fuel impact is awesome it will take off most caliper bolts!
Your video was exactly what I need it to diagnose 2001 ford Taurus with no gas in the system. Hope the compressor will run after discovering the leek and repairing. You are very practical and helpful.. Thanks.
Scanner Danner just want to say thanks for a down to earth video on a/c.
Was done with the back yard mechanic in mind.
You have help so much threw the years with your knowledge.
look forward to more videos like this.
Never thought of using compressed air and soap method.
try it on my neighbors car and Voila it work found the leak without using freon.
Again thanks.
Yep the milwaukee 2457 is awesome. Loving it. I have the 3/8" version but it's basically identical to the 1/4". It doesn't have the most torque in the world, but I like it because it knows when a bolt is too tight and it can't break it free so it won't jerk out of your hand but instead it'll flash its light to tell you. And at that point you just break the bolt free like a hand ratchet and spin it off. The reason I went for it is it's simply the fastest one out there at 500 rpms. I also considered the acdelco one--same price--because it has twice as much torque but it was half as fast. I choose speed because I can get things out so quick and it means a little less editing in my videos. (The milwaukee 200 lb-ft 3/8" impact driver is also the best as well--can't beat it)
Paul, i've been using soapy water for years as well as dye and a leak detector. I also use Shellite (white spirits) to flush the systems, found that it removes all the oil without leaving a residue.
I really like the Milwaukee battery ratchet, batteries seem to last a reasonable amount of time for the size (1.5ah).
Great video, looking forward to seeing more.
Nice video Paul. The leak testing methodology in context of the situation (vehicle age/condition, budget constraints, available tooling etc.) makes perfect sense to me. Practical approach based instruction......very nice indeed. Thanks again.
Hey, nice one here! And a series too! Can't wait. I know a little about AC work, just enough To get me in trouble. Can't wait to see if this set answers some of my questions. About the power ratchet question. I don't use those things. I got used to using a Milwaukee drill impact driver. I got a set of quarter inch adaptors to quarter inch, half inch, and three eighths inch square driver (just a few bucks for the set at the parts store, maybe a bit more off of a truck, for high impact use) for the impact driver, and can use it for almost anything. If a fastener is too tight, I just use a ratchet to loosen, then zip it off with the impact driver. I can also use it for a impact screw driver, like for deck building, and with the drill bites that have the quarter inch hex drive ends, it can be a great drill. It's an 18v battery, and recharges in less than an hour (maybe 15-20 mins)! It's versatile enough to justify. Drill, power screw driver, impact screw driver, power ratchet, all in one.
Oops! DRILL BITS, not drill bites! My bad.
first time I saw one of your a/c videos I thought air testing was a hack; now think its ingenious thanx / Im a disabled mechanic and do my thing vicariously thr u you . thanx for ingenious diagnosis and keeping me afloat
Awesome! Let me know how your system is 5 years from now too please? That would be great!
Good stuff Danner, that old girl needs some love! I have a Milwaukee 1/4 electronic ratchet that is awesome, I rarely use my air ratchet any more. The battery often lasts for 3-4 days of work
really well-done video. Just the right amount of talking , and very informative. I know a LOT more about A/C systems than I did before! Thanks!
I just had my house switched over to a new R-410a system; the difference is astonishing! I'm curious to see what the automotive industry has in store for refrigerants. It's a much more challenging environment, since simply raising system pressure isn't an efficient option. CO2 seems like a good choice, if you've ever "hacked" an A/C system with canned air dusters. ;)
Great video! Looking forward to the rest of the series!
Very good. Every direction correct. I never used air for leak detect, because of all the official rules. You sure got this correct. Thank you.
I just got a project to fix. I wanna say thanks. Your info will save me many bucks. Love your down home method.
Great series!
It's a Dewalt XR 18v I've got, Paul. Powerful impact. Rips crank pulley bolts off no problem.
I was gonna make a comment about the broken clutch spring. Glad you caught it.
Great video Paul, I've got a 2003 corolla with a non working A/C system. Hope to pick up some useful information over the preceding weeks and look forward to your next video.
danner pipefitter bob my every day driver 1991 cherokee limited . never fail drive buggy. little work every year body repairs.35 years driving cherokee love mine never problems with engine/drivetrain.basic maintenance
great vehicle .work many cars trucks hobby. your vids great help .thank you all you do. nh bob
I love you Paul, you are incredible. I love the style you are using, very simple logic. More wisdom and understanding
a lot of people hate my air test, I don't care, I've made my arguments as to why I use it and why I continue to use it. Thank you!
Yep..I caught that crack on the clutch, but since you didn't say anything about it..I thought my eyes must have been playing tricks on me. Great Vid Bud..I look forward to seeing more of this ol jeep "project" haha
Awesome test. I use it all the time in Arizona, we do a.c. all year. I never thought to engage the compressor to see if it works. great idea! Our shop just recently purchased a four channel temperature transducer for charging to the proper level. that's a whole new thing to learn. were seeing a lot of aftermarket parts don't hold anywhere close to the same amount of refrigerant. sometimes 75% of manufacturers recomended charge. I was surprised to see that the first time. just as much damage can happen from over charging
That's awesome Cody. So where do you place the four temp.sensors?
EVAP inlet and outlet and where else?
ScannerDanner evap inlet-outlet. Your looking for almost zero difference in the two temps. Condenser outlet-inlet 35-45 degree drop across the condenser. Also ambient temp, vent temp and compressor case temp. Usually over charging increases compressor case temp, as the flow of oil slows down. Its kinda new to me. I'm still learning. The crazy thing is just changing a condenser, even a oem unit, changes the charge level. We did a whole system in a honda. The original charge was 1.1lbs. After replacing the compressor and condenser the new charge was .75 lbs. We had a few come backs because of these system changes until we got this machine. Now our vent temps are in the 36-42 range.
Evap inlet and outlet should be almost zero difference. With in + or - 5 degrees is acceptable
awesome tips man. Can you post the link to this machine you are using? Or the temp transducer kit?
It may not post from the link but I'll unlock it when I see it.
Thank you Cody!
I noticed this charge discrepancy on our '93 Volvo 940 I just restored the A/C in. Thought it may have been from the custom line I had made, but that's a great point with all the chinese parts that are out there these days.
I was told a long time ago that if the outlet of the evap is slightly colder than the inlet, you're good to go. That means the evap is completely flooded, and you've got a little reserve refrigerant in the accumulator to account for normal leakage over the years. I've always done it by feel - been doing it this way for about 15 years, and it's working for me.
Probably safer to do this with R12, but it works with 134a too. I've overcharged an R12 system by a half pound once, and the system still cooled amazingly! Shocked it didn't slug the compressor. Got sidetracked and wasn't watching the scale ...
Certainly would be nice to have a unit that told me exactly what the line temps were. My fingertips aren't getting any younger. Probably out of my price range, I'd imagine.
I love your advice on the air pressure test... I developed the same methods on my own to resolve leaks before charging. the system is already open, and it needs to be tested so air is just fine. if I specialized in a.c. I'd use nitrogen, but mainly just because it's more professional. as you know from experience the air isn't doing any meaningful harm.
Milwaukee over everything. Used DeWalt, Makita, and others but Milwaukee is hands down the best for torque and battery life and hold up a long time, very resilient tools.
Great videos, I use and like the Milwaukee m12 - ratchet 2456‑20.
The compressed air is good method compare to charging the system 1 pound of freon to check for leaks. So compressed air if customer declines work you don't have recover your freon back. Here in California EPA is very strict on that.
The jeep/rv series will be a cool change on your channel. Look forward to it!
I was going to say I thought that clutch was broken. By the way you cant go wrong with the milwaukee kits they are awesome.
Battery operated ratchets and impacts are awesome. They are really great for doing under dash work and you don't have to worry about dragging nasty air hoses across a customers seat or carpet. The biggest plus is they might help reduce the chance of getting wore out wrist or carpal tunnel.
THANKS for shearing your knowledge, you are greatly appreciated.
Assuming you're doing just fine with your carrier, the moment you want to be a REAL electrician, give me a damn call! I WILL be hiring at that moment...
I'm quite impressed with the way you are thorough. Your ability to explain the things you are doing reminds me of me while explaining electricity.
Thank you for posting your videos for someone like me.. ignorant of the things you are knowledgeable
Don't be surprised if the evap core has pinhole leaks: common problem with early-mid nineties XJ's. Learned the compressed air trick helping in a garage as a teen in the seventies (empty system only!). Changing those cores is a bummer. I have a 2001 that needs replacement. Great video - I'll be watching! Thanks.
Also recommend replacing the heater core at the same time while you're in the air box.
Good man...your one of the only people I've heard say that the refrigerant should last forever....i do hvac residential and light commercial and i tell people all the time that i can charge it but its just going leak again maybe even before summer is over...maybe in a week....a day....auto shops advertise charging your ac but dont actually tell you there is a leak....until you go there 2-3 times and finally mention it and then they say must be a leak n charge you n arm n a leg after they already made unnecessary money off you....
Great video. We use nitrogen for finding leaks in AC systems. The Milwaukee m12 ratchet is a great tool worth getting.
Another great video Paul. Thanks for going the extra mile in what you present.
do more videos on ac please 🙏 great watch my friend love all your videos on how to with basic tools and the scanner but must say the basic ones are my favourite 👍💪keep up the great work Paul 👍
I think the Milwaukee electric ratchets are the best bang for your buck...Love your videos down here in Mississippi keep up the good work brother...
Great video. At 15:45, your neighbors must like you. On the ratchet, I like my 1/4 Milwaukee. It is durable, gets in tight places, and saves time delivering about 30 ft/lbs of torque. Battery life is outstanding as I have done several transmission pans without recharging. May be on back order as it is very popular. Combine it with the Grey Pneumatic 1/4 inch socket set.
I always wondered if using shop air to find a leak was something doable, especially if I already plan on changing the drier and vacuuming the system at the end. I will use this method on my next ac job that fits the criteria.
Thank you for your videos. I learn how to repair my old car. I don't have much money to go to the local mechanic. Thanks again sir.
I enjoyed the video,I'm getting ready to do a ac check on my mom's 97 Chevy blazer that has a leak I believe it to be the condenser cause everything else is checking out on it..so I'm going to learn a lot from this lil series..
Fantastic vid. Thanks. By the way I witnessed a guy get back his money after emptying a 20 oz bottle of AC Pro in his truck. The mechanic told him it should work. It didn't. The guy made such a fuss the manager of the store gave him back the money.
On the soap mix, for folks who might need to store the mix in an un-heated area, instead of water use windshield washer fluid.
That adapter fitting is to allow you to connect to a 1/2" ACME fitting. That can be found on 30 pound 134A tanks sold for auto use and many vacuum pumps.
thank you, I found out how much I needed it. Just finished filming part 2
Paul I apologize for the name screw up just had a brain fart. So use to hearing danner. Your videos are very informative. Aircraft mechanic for years but enjoy tinkering with cars and learning all the new electronics. Keep them coming. Thanks
It's totally cool man. I get "Dan" all the time!
Great video I like the use of compressed air. I use Rigid battery tools from Home Depot they have a lifetime warranty on the tool and battery. And are 18 volt.
I have the milwaukee electric ratchet in the 3/8" drive. I love it. Battery life is very good. I have completed multiple jobs on just one charge with the 2.0 m12 battery. highly recommend it.
U-activate is my a/c friend check compressor and find big leaks I bought one a couple years ago just quick on/ off pump air with compressor check clutch load side of circuit all good but I like the compressed air trick awesome. thanks for the vids my friend.
i just traded my snap-on 1/4 electric ratchet for a 3/8 ratchet. the 1/4 stripped the gears internally in the head, and for the cost to replace the head it made more sense to upgrade to the stronger tool. battery life is great, 3/8" ratchet has 40 ft-lbs of torque too. pricey but very convenient
Awesome Danner, Flip Flops and compressed air. been doin it for years.
Go with the Milwaukee..i got the 3/8 one a few weeks ago and love it..I use it more now than the air ratchet.
The Milwaukee M12 has a coiled wire drive system and it can break. When I was researching them the Ingersoll Rand 3/8 was the one I finally decided on. Its a much more robust drive system so you can use it to crack them loose as well as zip them out.
Really looking forward to parts 2 and 3. You're a great teacher
I like these videos when you get your hands dirty and not just plug in a cable :)... keep those videos coming
Always the best feeling, hooking up the adaptor to the air compressor and you dump 120psi out of a AC hose. Gravy diagnosis!
Thanks for more videos ? I like your Jeep. You enjoy your ride better when you fix it yourself.I learn a lot from your videos,Thanks for sharing
I'm kinda enjoying the not so technical side of your videos, Paul. Myself i'm not learning a lot but i'm sure these video's are helping many others. Sometimes they do clear out a few cob webs though. Try using Dawn dish washing soap as it makes real good bubbles. I guess i should have cleaned my glasses because i didn't see the cracks in the drive plate either.
get the Milwaukee m12 ratchet with the 2 amp hour batteries there compact and still have food capacity. 150$ for the combo or 100$ at home depot for the tool only
Setting up tools to do air. I’m going to have to try setting up a center hose for hooking up compressed air to it for checking major leaks. I saw another vid where he did that and found a compressor with super leak through shaft seal. No wasting refrigerant. Good idea.
Michael Szczys
- For what it's worth. If you don't have the triple hose/valve set. You can use the simple single hose kit with an empty can! Remove the tap with pin that pierce the can. Trough that hole you can easily pump compressed air into the system.
Cheap and fast. ;-)
Makita is the one I always use more than my Milwaukee impact driver. And about the air pressure trick, you could also use a resistor on the pressure sensor (unplugged), till it reads around 1-1.5 volts, and see if your compressor works or not.
Great explanation and tutorial! You rock buddy! Keep up with the videos. You and Eric the Car Guy are the best!
few tips dan
checking compressor for some easy tests prior to pulling stuff apart.
hand crank the front of the compressor this will as least tell you if its seized.
if it cranks okay then power up the electromagnetic clutch to see if it pulls the clutch in.
2 easy checks that should give a good idea wether its okay
Thank you for all your video, I’m learning a lot from you about auto a/c system.
Hi Sir! You are a wealth knowledge! your ability to clearly teach in methodical ways is amazing!!! Your troubleshooting skills/processes and attention to details is by far the best!!!
LOVE the compressed air test and water/soap test!!!! Makes sense and very effective!!!
I have a 98 jeep TJ that you recently helped me with not starting due to after market bypass security relay. I was beating my head for days trying to figure out why my Jeep will not crank. Replaced starter, ignition switch. Anyway sorry for long story. BUT want thank you again!
I know this is a AC topic. But here is my dilemma sir. Again I have a 98 jeep TJ 4.0.
I fully evacuated the system for 30 mins (-29PSI) and vacuum held at -29psi = hi and low side for an hour.
This is a BRAND NEW ENTIRE KIT AC I installed and purchased from JeepAir.com. Great product but pricey!
Current Issue:
Inside vent temp will not go below 60 degrees L
Outside or ambient temperature tested today with outside temp of 85-90 degrees. 40% humidity
I also tested this last night with ambient temp of 70 degrees F.
For whatever reason I cannot get down below 60 degrees on the vent temp.
Ran car for more than an hour, on the driveway and freeway. No change in vent temp.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is the quick rundown of my troubleshooting results:
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
With 24oz of R314a (no additives, dye, etc..)
With 5-6oz PAG oil (Fresh fil)
***Vent temp no colder than 60 degrees L***
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
******Fan on = LOW setting******
***Vent temp no colder than 60 degrees :(
-Ambient 80-90 degrees
--Low side=96 and High side=101 (Compressor OFF)
-Low side=32 and High side=202 (Compressor ON)
-Condenser temp = 126 degrees (with Auxiliary Fan running and Clutch fan running, good air flow, with no more than 1 inch gap between radiator and condenser)
-Out of curiosity I also measure temperature hose coming into evaporator (please see pic below)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
****Fan on = HIGH settings*****
***Vent temp no colder than 60 degrees L***
-Ambient 80-90 degrees
-Low side=55 and High side=249
Was
-Condenser temp = 126 degrees (with Auxiliary Fan running and Clutch fan running, good air flow, with no more than 1 inch gap between radiator and condenser)
-Out of curiosity I also measure temperature hose coming into evaporator (please see pic below)
What I am doing wrong?
I cannot get the vent temp to drop lower than 60 degrees F..
Thanks again for all your help!
And for all that you do sir!
Have a great weekend.
24 oz of oil? Or did you put in 5? Got to know this first.
Your low side psi is too high with the blower on high.
Also pinch off your heater hose please. Just want to know. I don't think based on your numbers that will help us.
ScannerDanner thank you so much mr scannerdanner!! I put in 1.5 lbs 134a 24oz two cans for sure. 5oz. Of PAG46. I’ll have the shop evac and recover r134a again. And I’ll pull vacuum at home. Pinching heater hose great idea!!!! Thank you!!
You know what sir I’ve thinking about this all day. I think I made I mistake! Actually, now I know I did. Rookie mistake. Sorry I’m not AC guy but I try to do everything myself and learn as i go, not quite careless but mistake for sure. Here’s my mistake that may have led to this issue.
I charged my low side while having r134a can upside down and introduced liquid form. My comprssor seem to be working still lol. But I since stopped using it to prevent more issues.
Do you think this was the culprit (charging while 134 can was up side down)?
Either way sir thank you! And will keep you posted.
ScannerDanner man oh man!!
Update:
Shop evacuated Refilled 24oz of r13a but this time filling AC system properly . Low and high pressure at correct levels. Vent temp still too warm.
Guess what scannerdanner! You are correct again! After 1 week of troubleshooting. I did what you recommended, I pinched the heater hoses to isolate heater core. BOOM! Ice cold! Holy sh**!!!!! Jumping for joy thanks to you buddy! Again you came through...
CULPRIT????!!!
0.05 inches (penny thickness) gap on my hot and cold blend door caused SO MUCH damn grief!!! Readjusted blend door cable. And that’s it. I was cussing at this cable for a good 5 mins. Lol
Penny inch thick gap was the difference between 60-80 degree vent Temperature to 30-50 degree of awesome coldness!!!
Thanks again sir!!
iv been loving your recent AC related videos. I real would love to see you start a AC series, like some theory and operation, regasing etc. it would take you to the next level
I'm going to try to teach that class again at the college and record it there.
Milwaukee is the 90 degree one I want to get for $150. And reviews say they are top performers for that tool type.
I love my AC Deco 1/4 inch drive electric ratchet. I use it for everything. I work on ambulances mostly so it's everything from aftermarket electrical systems to changing injectors and turbos on powerstrokes. I bet 80% of my ratcheting is with the 1/4 inch tool. Comes with two batteries and I rarely change it out more than once a day, if that. I think any of the major brands are pretty equal so you really can't go wrong.
AC DELCO LOL
great to see you work in A/C
I have the Milwaukee I absolutely love it the light on the side to remind you that it needs charged is nice however you run a very long time between charges for example we were able to strip a 1990 Land Rover front accessories off and valve covers intake manifold on One battery pack we also have this 3/8 impact and we love it too go M12 you won't regret it
Aye Paul, i love your videos. I was changing my oil pump gasket chevy sonic 1.8l.. engine moved towards the firewall pushed on the ac lines connected to the expansion valve and cracked the evaoorator coils. Will be ripping out the dash. I have no installments and when it was brand new, the dealer hated me because i did all the repairs myself 😂 😂😂
Ac videos are awesome !! Thank you. Thank for all your videos.
Excellent video and a good explanation of the AC system,
well done.
This series is going to be awesome!
ohh BTW the compressed air method for checking leaks is brilliant. I will be sure to use that one.
You're a life saver. Thank you for all your videos!
Awesome job on using the air test😁👍. Good call man
I bought a MILWAUKEE M12CIW38-202C 12V Cordless Impact Driver 2Ah nearly a year ago. The reason I`ve chosen this is the size/battery lifetime/price made it a best deal. It is the smallest so you can work on a places are very hard to reach.
Im new to ur videos I resently started doing a/c work and I learned watching ur videos Thank you so so much
Paul as far as the cordless ratchets go i have both the snap on and Milwaukee. I use the snap on at work and am very impressed that thing holds a charge forever and is a beast it literally "suffers" from the same "problem" as there air ratchet it'll rap up and smash your hand if you're not watching it. also the rundown tourqe is very impressive. that said i use the Milwaukee a lot at home doing side work, alot of side work and it works great. I would and did myself get the 3/8 as the body of the tool is the same just the head is different so there is no real size advantage I just use an adapter for 1/4 and really haven't found the extra length to be an issue. just my 2 cents