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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2013
- One of MANY ways to wire a control system for a single inline duct fan with an air handler or gas furnace. The shown method is intended to minimize stress or reliance on the existing control board by employing it's own transformer, relay and fuse so as to only use very minimal amperage from the 120v EAC control point on a board. Normal alternatives are standard temp sensing duct controls, pressure/flap controls, packaged control modules and the like which are easily researchable.
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Thank you so much for this video ,I put a duct fan in to get some more air flow to the side of the house farthest from the blower and it really fixed the problem but I was using the heat and cool 24volt wires to trigger my relay and the fan came on early.Never knew about this EAC connection but this is great ,now it comes on the same time as the air handler blower.
Probably one of the most informative videos I’ve seen on installing a device to the AC heater unit spot on
As someone named Ryan, thanks for making this video 😉
hey mikie nice job with the video ,glad to see you back
Good to see you back. A simple 120 volt relay mounted in furnace would be much simpler and still isolate board since that seemed to be main concern.
love the FT-8800R in the background...
Thanks Matt! :). I really need to get back on the ait, after my last round of back troubles I dont feel like sitting at the desk much so the HF gear (Icom 737A, Icom 730, Icom 706 (havent put it in the new truck yet)) and the keys have been collecting dust. ...well prolly since a tornado danced with my tower on the *very same day* that I'd put up a newly repaired Force12-5BA, 20 thru 10 plus warc, and a brand new M2 40MLLDD, 4 ele 40m mobobander. Didn't even get to put the 40 on the air! Needless to say I cried, threw things, said stuff that curled the paint in the shack and didnt bother to turn on a radio for six months, lol.
mikie2501 I completely understand...still rocking my SGC-2020, SGC-211 for most of the time. Do mostly QRP.
Matt Maulden sweet! Ive stared at the 2020's enough times, lol. I have a mfj-9020 that I enjoy off and on, need to add the bells to it, but would be nice to get a fancy QRP rig later down the line. I frequently run low power to QRP when I do cw, but the beams make it fun! Just have up a vertical at the moment until I get the beams fixed or replaced. The tower is a longer story! (Maybe I should start an email thread, lol!) I use a clearspeech speaker with the mfj and it helps on weak signal a lot. Have another one I use mobile since I'm on 40m mostly and the vertically polarized noise plus the 706's cruddy DSP make it difficult to copy anyone under 500w without it. Sad when a speaker has better DSP than the rig, lol. They should license it!!
Should I use the 24 volt that came from relay air handler to a contactor out side unit. And wire direct to another contactor or relay to power 124 volt fan.? Need your feed back thx
Nice job
Everyone has their own way of doing things,bottom line if it works then that's all that matters
Jump the existing green wire (common) to a relay (needs to be added). Then the other leg to the 24vac transformer. The fan wire should the go to common of relay switch, then the other goes to hot wire. The neutral goes to neutral in the board.
Hey Mikie, pardon my ignorance but would it be possible to simply wire the relay to the blower fan wire coming from the thermostat? My control board and all the wires attached to it, along with the wires running to the fan have a constant 120 volts running through them no matter if the fan is running or not. I cannot figure out how the fan is switching on when I turn it on at the thermostat, but I read the wires connected directly to the blower and they are sitting at 120. My unit has a capacitor in it, so I'm sure if that has anything to do with it
you are right .I fix it.thanks
Hello, I have updated a new air duct fan, which can be connected to WiFi, you can control all functions on the phone, and set the rules on the phone.
In addition, the device has a recording function, which can record temperature and humidity, and store startup and shutdown history records.
I want to invite you to review it. The product is free. Take a 1-minute short video.
If you need, send me your email, and I will give you the picture and code of the product. You can contact me directly.
Hello,
i dont have access to a board. Can i use a 24volt transformer and a relay to operate a inline fan with a thermostat?
I use 2 contractors one for heat one for cool and a transformer to power the Tstat then the outgoing power from the power wires jumped together going to fan. white from tstat going to 24v on one contactor and yellow from tstat going to other contactor seems like the easiest way for me
Like the info, what about same installation but using a electric furnace, standard air handler doesn't have a board such as the one in your video, can I just use contactor and wiring the common and fan wire to that?
Sure. As a few people have commented below, there are a number of ways to do it, a control board isnt necessary,as long as you have reliable power for the blower, your not overloading your current low voltage transformer, then your fine. Its just a matter of how you want to control it.
hi friend my aircon indoor fan motor working slow . i check ready capacitor . its a ok . so how to check pcb board . galo411gk-12aph1 . plz help me
Hello Mikie2501 my air-condition(electric gas) not working so I look at HAAC control circuit not electricity reach it and the error light not working what , I checked the electricity coming to unit its work non of the fan or the HVAC circuit have electricity , what do you think.
+Esam Alnajjar if you know you have 120 volts making it to the unit but nothing is on, and the breaker/fuse at the unit isnt tripped or burned out, then its possible that either the low voltage transformer is burned out or that a 3 or 5 amp fuse has popped on the control board. (Some boards have fuses, some dont)
If one of these two is the case then you need to find the short that caused the problem. Quite frequently its damaged low voltage wiring outside at the condenser unit, someone could have hit it with a weedeater or a dog got it and chewed it, or if the wiring is really old it could just have exposed wiring that shorted.
...a storm could have fried the control board as well. There are a number of possible problems, but these are the most likely.
I'm trying to figure out to have multiple duct fans hooked up to the same thermostat without having extension cords running everywhere. Upstairs is not cold enough in summer and downstairs is not hot enough in winter. Debating combining ducts and just using high powered fan. So 3 duct get combined upstairs to 1 fan and 3 ducts downstairs get combined to one fan. Any thoughts
That's a fairly common problem with two story houses that only have one ac unit, unfortunately:/
During the summer all the cool air likes to flow down the stairs to the first floor and in winter all the hot air goes straight upstairs with the cold air settling low.
Surprisingly I haven't seen all that many duct fans installed, more often than not I would see inline manually operated duct dampers that would be partially closed to restrict flow to certain areas.
The more expensive route, with one ac, is to have electric dampers that all go to a control board at the unit and a second thermostat placed upstairs. Both stats are wired to the board and it controls the unit.
It also has to have a bypass duct with a weight balanced (typically) damper in it that goes from the supply side of the unit back over to the return side, that way any excess pressure is taken off the blower when, say, the damper for downstairs is closed because the tstat down the is at temp but the upstairs is still running.
Usually inline duct fans are for long runs, possibly with angle changes, and the air pressure drops off too much... or the installer undersized the duct for a long run.
If you want to experiment with it then two larger duct fans wouldn't be too expensive, though I haven't priced them in a while. I think 12 inch ones range from 50-150 depending on brand.
Wiring them is a whole different conversation, heh.
I'm cheap so I'd probably do it the hard way, but the easy way would probably be to go with a couple of ductstats. They mount on the duct near the duct fan with a temp probe that pokes into the duct, you plug the fan into the ductstat, plug it into 120v outlet then set the switch on the box for heat or cool, then set the temp you want it to trigger at. So you would have one set on cool and one on heat.
During summer when the ac kicks on and the temp in the duct reaches the cool level you have the box set at, the fan kicks in. When the ac shuts off the sensor temp should eventually go up enough to turn it off. I've never played with one but you might have to fiddle with them several times so that it cuts off in a timely manner.
Those are about 50 bucks each, I think.
Well hope this has given you some decent stuff to swirl in your head for a while! Hope it makes sense, I'm working on about two hours sleep, hehe.
I have central AC and Heat (gas). Do I need to have a separate relay and wiring for each or will the one relay do both heat and AC? Thanks, Gary
Gary Smith , No you can tap your fan motor wires as long as their 120v, if it’s 220 v then tap one from the motor and one from the neutral wire.
if the inline duct fan has 2 black wires and a green wire how do I wire that up
blks = pwr :120vac and com. and grn = ground
@@dougvanduzen2866 Where can you hook those to wires at, in order to have an extra fan booster running for Heat And Cooling Mode?
I took power off of the main fan control on the board for the inline fan as well as my electronic furnace filter.
Scott (don't know how that got flagged) I don't know why the current sensing relay couldn't work, just have to test it's action at the furnace and make sure you don't have too much of a voltage drop from the 12 volts over the 40 foot run, if it drops too much it may not close the relay on the other end reliably (or at all). M@
obviously you love to hear yourself talk
Circuit board has plug "eac" which puts out 120v everytime blower turns on
Power for Electronic air cleaner would work good to power on a extra fan
Way too complicated. Just use a 24 volt transformer with timer relays and a thermostat.
Yes way to complicated
OMG dude. I was thinking the same thing. Felt like I was in a Chinese Arithmetic class for a fkn hour. Just to find out that
1 + 1 = 2 🤦♂️
holy shit way too much talking
Hello, I have updated a new air duct fan, which can be connected to WiFi, you can control all functions on the phone, and set the rules on the phone.
In addition, the device has a recording function, which can record temperature and humidity, and store startup and shutdown history records.
I want to invite you to review it. The product is free. Take a 1-minute short video.
If you need, send me your email, and I will give you the picture and code of the product. You can contact me directly.
Simple????
Too complicated.....can the explanation be simpler ????
Great video. One quick question. I already have a fan with a 120-24 transformer. Can I skip the 24V transformer and connect it to the HVAC system with a 120V contractor?
Way too much info, not necessary for a simple fan tap
Far too complicated- Airstat in plenum and power to fan. No need to disturb or even touch the circuit board. Airstat can switch up to 15 amps at 120 volts
Do you have both AC and heat? If so, how close to the blower did you mount your Airstat? Have you had any problems with your fan failing to come on when the blower comes on? I am debating whether to go the Airstat way or the relay way. I have read accounts that say where you mount the Airstat makes all the difference. Thanks,
You are very confusing
Hello, I have updated a new air duct fan, which can be connected to WiFi, you can control all functions on the phone, and set the rules on the phone.
In addition, the device has a recording function, which can record temperature and humidity, and store startup and shutdown history records.
I want to invite you to review it. The product is free. Take a 1-minute short video.
If you need, send me your email, and I will give you the picture and code of the product. You can contact me directly.