Thank you. As a home inspector I see this issue several times a week and it usually leaves my clients bewildered. I’m baking a link to this video into my reports.
I hear you. Even the company I bought my new $5,000 HVAC system gave me some bad information. I was not getting enough air flow upstairs so I asked if they sized my A/C correctly. He said they did. I then said I heard that dampers can be adjusted to move air better. He told me the dampers were set in the optimal positions and that wasn't the issue.. Turns out he was either incompetent or just didn't want to deal with it. I looked it up on TH-cam and then played with the dampers and sure enough, one was only open 50% and when I opened it 100%, the air flow is now stronger upstairs. So much wasted time dealing with it being 68 in the basement and 78 upstairs when all he had to do was adjust them 2 years ago. Shame on me for thinking a professional HVAC guy knew what he was talking about or was giving me the best advice. Just like any other profession, some are just phoning it in, while others go above and beyond.
Where were the dampers? The trunkline in my attic gets air but not enough for 5 rooms. I feels like something was not sized correctly. I didn't see any dampers when I sent the camera down through the main vent from the attic.
@@javimelendez414 My dampers are in my laundry room on the main ducts that are coming out from the HVAC fan that sends the cool / hot air throughout the house. I am not sure about any in the attic. For my design, it makes more sense for them to be right by the fan and before the ducts branch to downstairs and upstairs. The dampers are also easily visible on the ducts.
We added an additional return in our hot room as that helped pull out the heat from the room and added additional circulation. We had to do a calculation to see if this was possible 1st.
The thing here is the fact that EVERY single HVAC tech that comes out to my house only wants to service my outside unit (gas pack ) they do NOT care about my ductwork ,don’t wan’t to see my ductwork and will not give me a straight answer on anything to do with ductwork .It’s like it doesn’t even exist at all !
I thought I was alone on this... 4 companies and not a single one was willing to go into my crawlspace to check the ductwork... (bungalow with registers in the roof so all the ductwork in my house is accessible.)
we had this one room super cold and did the closing the vents to 50% in3 rooms and leaving the other 2 rooms open. it fix the issue. now we have strong blowing air to hotter rooms. thank you
I’ve seen in my ranch home. I have three bedrooms and a bathroom next to my thermostat in the hallway. If I close the bedroom and bathroom doors, the air conditioner runs longer. Should I leave my doors open or shut which would be better to cool and heet the house and dehumidify better with a dehumidifier in the basement, just curious
Most common situation: Hot room in upstairs and HVAC in basement/first floor. Added air return to upstairs is ~35ft long while basement air return is ~3ft long, so the intake pull from upstairs is low. In addition to solutions noted (manual damper, adjust registers, add fan to register), why not add fan to air return as well to help pull the hot air from the upstairs return?
I dont have return upstairs either. The previous owners made a hole on the wall with a register that leads to space between the joists. Not sure how this would help. The entire 2nd floor hardly gets any air.@@ventsyv
I put a 6" inline fan half way down the duct to the room and installed a sail ( Pressure activated ) switch in the main run line. When the system turned on, the line boost fan came on. Although it worked, I had to remove it because it was quite noisy in the floor area of the room. Those type of fans are made to exhaust air from greenhouses, so the steep angle on the blades makes for a lot of loud air movement.
Thanks for the video. What about putting a fan in the foil duct in the attic that would constantly pull the cool air from the other rooms to the hot room? How small do they make those vent fans in your last solution? Possible for a 6x6 vent? Is there a way to tell if I have dampers installed? I have one giant foil duct going into a large foil box with 3 different sized foils ducts coming out of it going to 3 different rooms. Without going up to the attic I’d guess that box is 2’ x 1.5’ x1.5’. I’ve got a 4 ton unit. Thanks.
Are the "dampers" the little flaps inside the duct? My house has round vents with pull chains (like the kind you see on ceiling fans) and metal flaps inside. The hottest room in the house has a flap that is stuck and doesn't seem to want to open all of the way. 2nd hottest room has the same thing but the chain is gone and I don't know how to get it to open back up or how to get it to stay opened properly. I'm sorely tempted to get on a ladder and try to tear the flap out entirely. My house doesn't have floor registers. It's a single story house and I don't know how floor registers would even connect to our central AC.
My "hot room" is located above the garage and experiences significantly higher temperatures compared to the rest of my single-story home (76° versus 82° to 83°). Despite trying various attic-based solutions to alleviate the heat, they have only marginally improved conditions by about 1 degree. Compounding the issue, the room's air conditioning return is inconveniently located at floor level, exacerbating the heat buildup. The furnace directly beneath the room provides a short path for air circulation. Given these challenges, I'm considering two potential solutions: 1. Installing an additional air conditioning return duct in the ceiling of the bonus room, positioned centrally for optimal airflow. Although this may involve complex ductwork through the attic, it could significantly improve air circulation. I currently use a ceiling fan, but I'm willing to turn it off if it enhances the effectiveness of the air conditioning. 2. Exploring the option of installing a quiet ceiling vent fan designed to draw hot air from the room and exhaust it into the attic. While this approach may result in some air conditioning loss to the attic, it seems like a viable option given the current circumstances. I'm seeking advice on which of these approaches would be most effective in addressing the overheating issue in my bonus room.
I think the first option is the best I do hvac work and the return doesn't need to be in the center of the room regardless of where it is it's still gonna pull the same amount of air what matters is how big flex/duct you are gonna use for the return. That's what will matter in how much air gets moved
@@justinfarias7247 Thanks for the reply! Since I wrote this post, I have been installing radient barrier foil on the sides and top of the bonus room. Hopefully that will help some what with the heating issue. I am doing this before I install a new return air duct. Thanks again!
Hello I see you are in 804 Area code. I have a Question , I had a Modular home built and The Builder used All Half Assed Subs. Our HAVC guy did a Half Assed job ! I have the Fkex Duct work that's 80% closed off by Just Hanging in a Single Strap in Long Distances. I am going Replace the Duct work myself. I believe I have enough To figure it out and I do have the Sheet that was Supplied to County for Approvel , I will have to put in Valves - Dampers so the Air Will not Over Power each Room . Basement is Open . But my Question is Our Garage does not have And Heat or A/C in it , Could I Run 1 Metal Duct work in Garage , garage is a 24'x30' Whole house is Super insulted, even the Garage has 6" outside walls and Great Insulted Doors on it. Does the Garage Have to have a Return , Seeing it is a Garage not Living space - I say Not When I do the Duct work in basement I will put in the Dampers and Cover the Duct work so it is Insulted Good and will use the Super Sticky Tape for the Ducts when I do them . I am going to Run a Pipe Metal Duct into Garage and Put a Damper on it to regulate the air so it does not Over Power that Garage , and Make Sure it Has Alot of Bug Screen over it . Even though we have No spiders in house because we have a good exterminator here in Area that come 4x's a Year The Duct in Garage will be on House side of the wall and I will enclose it and insulate it when I pit it in using Boards and Drywall it Whats your thought. I Ended up Firing the Builder and Finished the House myself !! I don't have any $ left to pay to have someone do the work. I had to Hire people to Fix Builders Subs Work , Shingles put on back Roof Sideways , Vent Pipes on Roof Flashing On wrong , the Ridge Vent on Roof looked like a Snake Crawing across the Top. Where the Chimney siding was Not Finished , Eve Flashing was 1/2 on house. Builder Kept having Subs Coming Back ,and Back. No wonder Subs Kinda did not Care !!! Builder I belive He did not Know How to Use his Subs and Had then Do Piece work here and there. Never Finishing There Job. Siding guys shoukd not have even come till house is ready to wrap !!! Even the County Inspector's Did not Catch the Uber Ground Rod Was Not hooked up to Ground of outside Grounding. Breaker's in breaker Box Was Rusted. I hired a company come in Hook up my Standbye Generator and rewire the panel Box !!! Yep Even the sub Electrian was Horrible . I told Builder to Fire him from the Get Go !!! The Electrian was Also the Plumber !!! Tell me it's not crazy
I enclosed a loft now it gets very cold and the thermostat turns the ac off because it’s next to it. The rest of the house is hot can I change the register box to be smaller to make more airflow to the other rooms ?
what do you do about a zoning issue? I don't think they existed when this apartment was built in 2002 cuz I don't think shared heating and cooling is legal they used to call it a universal system
I added a portable air on my room and somehow I notice the floor seeps in heat from the garage and the ceiling corners are hot and front home of househas no insulation. Walls are hot. Can this be something I can sew the homebuilder or just fill in the walls with insulation? How do I insulate a floor?
portable AC units work differently than other types, since they blow the waste heat out of the window, it's sucking in outside air through cracks like you describe. if you switch to a regular window unit it won't suck outside air into the cracks in your house. for that reason the portable AC units aren't a good long term solution and can make other parts of your house hotter.
Way too many variables to answer that question. I would recommend getting different quotes in your market and asking about the technology. They used to clean the ductwork. Some are better than others and you may end up getting what you pay for.
Does adding a return air pattern vent above the door coupled with the vent fan potentially increase cooling of the room? In the desert the SW room seems to be quite hot from the afternoon through setting sun and in a small room where they diverted the HVAC and it’s too small for the room, plus external sun on walls and a wall butted up to a hot garage, it’s pretty brutal. No regular fan does anything and other parts of the house are too cold if you run the a/c just to accommodate that room. I’m trying to find a solution to help, not necessarily correct it, since that probably involves something quite extensive. I was thinking of trying the RAP above the door, but that vent fan would probably help alongside the RAP. If the HVAC vent wasn’t in front of the sunny window, I feel it would help because it seems the hot side of the room just warms that cool air so it can’t move through the room while still cool so any room fan just blows warm air.
Are house in most rooms get so cold that if I turn off the air it's better and the temp throughout the house is so off the bathrooms are usually freezing to where you almost want to plug in a heater until your done showering
We have even cooling in every room as long as the rooms doors are open. Course closing sleeping room doors is common but the room heats up! How do I allow for this. I have closed most registers in the main room of home, helped a little, but suspect air flow is restricted now overall. Single story florida, heatpump.
@@kennethbrown5664 we installed a multistage HVAC inside and out. Also added an additional supply duct in master. Multistage is amazing for keep everything even temp.
@@NewHVACGuide yes is it a bad idea? I got a 5 inches fan and just disconnect the duck work for the one room that is always warm and now pushing hot cold air from the basement in the room.
@@NewHVACGuide well now I am freaked out and put it back the way it was lol. I will have someone come and check the air quality I. The house next week. I always have a dehumidifier running in the basement and the air is around 45% so I hope it was not to humide to push in the duck and created moisture. Thank you
nope, the system is continuing to receive air from the cooled rooms. Shutting the system off will allow the ducts to get hot (if in the attic) then when the system turns back on that hot air (but still not as hot as attic air temperature) must blow out into the rooms. On super hot days it's best to leave the fan in the "on" position. (daytime only!) Then the room temps do not fluctuate but stay even as the system turns on and off as needed.
@me4654 I don't understand what you mean by systems being vented into attic spaces because the whole ac system is a closed system if you leave the fan on it will jus pull the cool air from the rest of the house into the return and back out the registers
Agree, don't leave the thermostat on in cooling; it'll increase humidity and the air will pick up heat as it travel thru the duct and equipment in the attic. Fan mode run at about 35-50% speed, the slower the air travel thru the duct the more heat it pick up. Bad idea.
The problem is that you know your stuff, but you are not what it seems like as a person and character in your videos. It doesn’t matter how great your skills are, and how you perceive yourself, but so much personal experience your character is so flaws from an your EGO - judgmental and what you see it’s not what you get and I’m not talking about your information. How do you do anything is all you do everything so you can talk to talk and it doesn’t matter how many licenses or credentials you have not been humble and making assumptions without knowing the facts there’s a whole lot more than servicing, fixing air condition units. You need to pick up some self-help books of how not just talked to talk, but walk to work when you are in the people business. For those of you who will read this you need to understand that this is not a hate message. This is a huge Favor message. This guy should stick with videos and information, so Griffin here will keep the company reputation …🤬. No, I am not the guy to ever do this type of things as I have much better things to do but just happened that his video popped up as apparently, I still subscribe to his channel so everything that I said is not made up story, and I’m not gonna get to details, especially coming from a veteran special forces ranger🇺🇸
Thank you. As a home inspector I see this issue several times a week and it usually leaves my clients bewildered. I’m baking a link to this video into my reports.
I hear you. Even the company I bought my new $5,000 HVAC system gave me some bad information. I was not getting enough air flow upstairs so I asked if they sized my A/C correctly. He said they did. I then said I heard that dampers can be adjusted to move air better. He told me the dampers were set in the optimal positions and that wasn't the issue.. Turns out he was either incompetent or just didn't want to deal with it.
I looked it up on TH-cam and then played with the dampers and sure enough, one was only open 50% and when I opened it 100%, the air flow is now stronger upstairs. So much wasted time dealing with it being 68 in the basement and 78 upstairs when all he had to do was adjust them 2 years ago.
Shame on me for thinking a professional HVAC guy knew what he was talking about or was giving me the best advice. Just like any other profession, some are just phoning it in, while others go above and beyond.
Where were the dampers? The trunkline in my attic gets air but not enough for 5 rooms. I feels like something was not sized correctly. I didn't see any dampers when I sent the camera down through the main vent from the attic.
@@javimelendez414 My dampers are in my laundry room on the main ducts that are coming out from the HVAC fan that sends the cool / hot air throughout the house. I am not sure about any in the attic. For my design, it makes more sense for them to be right by the fan and before the ducts branch to downstairs and upstairs. The dampers are also easily visible on the ducts.
We added an additional return in our hot room as that helped pull out the heat from the room and added additional circulation. We had to do a calculation to see if this was possible 1st.
The thing here is the fact that EVERY single HVAC tech that comes out to my house only wants to service my outside unit (gas pack ) they do NOT care about my ductwork ,don’t wan’t to see my ductwork and will not give me a straight answer on anything to do with ductwork .It’s like it doesn’t even exist at all !
T Wood is time you find another company. That's a rotten way to do business!
I experienced the same. I have a new system yet my air can’t keep up. It’s like all are too lazy to get in the attic and find out the issue
I thought I was alone on this... 4 companies and not a single one was willing to go into my crawlspace to check the ductwork... (bungalow with registers in the roof so all the ductwork in my house is accessible.)
we had this one room super cold and did the closing the vents to 50% in3 rooms and leaving the other 2 rooms open. it fix the issue. now we have strong blowing air to hotter rooms. thank you
Or it's my sunroom and it's all windows and gets extremely hot because it's in the sun all day
I’ve seen in my ranch home. I have three bedrooms and a bathroom next to my thermostat in the hallway. If I close the bedroom and bathroom doors, the air conditioner runs longer. Should I leave my doors open or shut which would be better to cool and heet the house and dehumidify better with a dehumidifier in the basement, just curious
Most common situation: Hot room in upstairs and HVAC in basement/first floor. Added air return to upstairs is ~35ft long while basement air return is ~3ft long, so the intake pull from upstairs is low. In addition to solutions noted (manual damper, adjust registers, add fan to register), why not add fan to air return as well to help pull the hot air from the upstairs return?
My situation exactly. I had the same idea, that's how I found this video...
I dont have return upstairs either. The previous owners made a hole on the wall with a register that leads to space between the joists. Not sure how this would help. The entire 2nd floor hardly gets any air.@@ventsyv
I put a 6" inline fan half way down the duct to the room and installed a sail ( Pressure activated ) switch in the main run line. When the system turned on, the line boost fan came on. Although it worked, I had to remove it because it was quite noisy in the floor area of the room. Those type of fans are made to exhaust air from greenhouses, so the steep angle on the blades makes for a lot of loud air movement.
Thanks for the video. What about putting a fan in the foil duct in the attic that would constantly pull the cool air from the other rooms to the hot room?
How small do they make those vent fans in your last solution? Possible for a 6x6 vent?
Is there a way to tell if I have dampers installed? I have one giant foil duct going into a large foil box with 3 different sized foils ducts coming out of it going to 3 different rooms. Without going up to the attic I’d guess that box is 2’ x 1.5’ x1.5’. I’ve got a 4 ton unit. Thanks.
You could always frame up a bigger 6 by 6 vent if they didnt make that size vent fan.
Are the "dampers" the little flaps inside the duct? My house has round vents with pull chains (like the kind you see on ceiling fans) and metal flaps inside. The hottest room in the house has a flap that is stuck and doesn't seem to want to open all of the way. 2nd hottest room has the same thing but the chain is gone and I don't know how to get it to open back up or how to get it to stay opened properly. I'm sorely tempted to get on a ladder and try to tear the flap out entirely.
My house doesn't have floor registers. It's a single story house and I don't know how floor registers would even connect to our central AC.
I have a couple of rooms that are hotter than the rest of the house, and our house is a singe story house.
How about inline fan in the duct from main box to 10 inch hose to master bedroom bath closet. My duct hoses has been replaced all new hose.
What is the ideal humidity reange inside the home?
My house has the duct under the house can you make a video towards this type of homes
My "hot room" is located above the garage and experiences significantly higher temperatures compared to the rest of my single-story home (76° versus 82° to 83°). Despite trying various attic-based solutions to alleviate the heat, they have only marginally improved conditions by about 1 degree. Compounding the issue, the room's air conditioning return is inconveniently located at floor level, exacerbating the heat buildup. The furnace directly beneath the room provides a short path for air circulation.
Given these challenges, I'm considering two potential solutions:
1. Installing an additional air conditioning return duct in the ceiling of the bonus room, positioned centrally for optimal airflow. Although this may involve complex ductwork through the attic, it could significantly improve air circulation. I currently use a ceiling fan, but I'm willing to turn it off if it enhances the effectiveness of the air conditioning.
2. Exploring the option of installing a quiet ceiling vent fan designed to draw hot air from the room and exhaust it into the attic. While this approach may result in some air conditioning loss to the attic, it seems like a viable option given the current circumstances.
I'm seeking advice on which of these approaches would be most effective in addressing the overheating issue in my bonus room.
Looks like we might be living in the same house. :)
I think the first option is the best I do hvac work and the return doesn't need to be in the center of the room regardless of where it is it's still gonna pull the same amount of air what matters is how big flex/duct you are gonna use for the return. That's what will matter in how much air gets moved
@@justinfarias7247 Thanks for the reply! Since I wrote this post, I have been installing radient barrier foil on the sides and top of the bonus room. Hopefully that will help some what with the heating issue. I am doing this before I install a new return air duct. Thanks again!
Hello I see you are in 804 Area code. I have a Question , I had a Modular home built and The Builder used All Half Assed Subs. Our HAVC guy did a Half Assed job !
I have the Fkex Duct work that's 80% closed off by Just Hanging in a Single Strap in Long Distances.
I am going Replace the Duct work myself. I believe I have enough To figure it out and I do have the Sheet that was Supplied to County for Approvel , I will have to put in Valves - Dampers so the Air Will not Over Power each Room . Basement is Open .
But my Question is
Our Garage does not have And Heat or A/C in it , Could I Run 1 Metal Duct work in Garage , garage is a 24'x30'
Whole house is Super insulted, even the Garage has 6" outside walls and Great Insulted Doors on it.
Does the Garage Have to have a Return ,
Seeing it is a Garage not Living space - I say Not
When I do the Duct work in basement I will put in the Dampers and Cover the Duct work so it is Insulted Good and will use the Super Sticky Tape for the Ducts when I do them . I am going to Run a Pipe Metal Duct into Garage and Put a Damper on it to regulate the air so it does not Over Power that Garage , and Make Sure it Has Alot of Bug Screen over it . Even though we have No spiders in house because we have a good exterminator here in Area that come 4x's a Year
The Duct in Garage will be on House side of the wall and I will enclose it and insulate it when I pit it in using Boards and Drywall it
Whats your thought.
I Ended up Firing the Builder and Finished the House myself !!
I don't have any $ left to pay to have someone do the work. I had to Hire people to Fix Builders Subs Work , Shingles put on back Roof Sideways , Vent Pipes on Roof Flashing On wrong , the Ridge Vent on Roof looked like a Snake Crawing across the Top. Where the Chimney siding was Not Finished , Eve Flashing was 1/2 on house. Builder Kept having Subs Coming Back ,and Back.
No wonder Subs Kinda did not Care !!!
Builder I belive He did not Know How to Use his Subs and Had then Do Piece work here and there. Never Finishing There Job.
Siding guys shoukd not have even come till house is ready to wrap !!!
Even the County Inspector's Did not Catch the Uber Ground Rod Was Not hooked up to Ground of outside Grounding.
Breaker's in breaker Box Was Rusted. I hired a company come in Hook up my Standbye Generator and rewire the panel Box !!!
Yep Even the sub Electrian was Horrible . I told Builder to Fire him from the Get Go !!!
The Electrian was Also the Plumber !!! Tell me it's not crazy
Only one cold air return vent on one side of house. Adding returns to bedrooms on other side help?
I enclosed a loft now it gets very cold and the thermostat turns the ac off because it’s next to it. The rest of the house is hot can I change the register box to be smaller to make more airflow to the other rooms ?
As long as it's balanced, that might be the fix! Just be careful not to increase the static pressure too high! Join us on Tuesday for our live show!
what do you do about a zoning issue? I don't think they existed when this apartment was built in 2002 cuz I don't think shared heating and cooling is legal they used to call it a universal system
Fix duct, booster fan (inline grow fans are cheaper) been using those here and there blowing peoples minds 😉 zone system,balance duct.
I added a portable air on my room and somehow I notice the floor seeps in heat from the garage and the ceiling corners are hot and front home of househas no insulation. Walls are hot. Can this be something I can sew the homebuilder or just fill in the walls with insulation? How do I insulate a floor?
This is ongoing every summer in Arizona heat
portable AC units work differently than other types, since they blow the waste heat out of the window, it's sucking in outside air through cracks like you describe. if you switch to a regular window unit it won't suck outside air into the cracks in your house. for that reason the portable AC units aren't a good long term solution and can make other parts of your house hotter.
Approximately how much does it cost to clean out the ducts in general sir?
Way too many variables to answer that question. I would recommend getting different quotes in your market and asking about the technology. They used to clean the ductwork. Some are better than others and you may end up getting what you pay for.
Join us live every Tuesday night on our live show!
Join us every Tuesday night on our live show! www.youtube.com/@hvacguideliveshow
Can i take my duct on my basememt ceiling and run it to the floor thru the ceiling and then dropping thru a wall?
what about shared hearing and air conditioning? closing a vent in the hallway causes my unit to run non-stop
Thank you wish you were in Texas
Does adding a return air pattern vent above the door coupled with the vent fan potentially increase cooling of the room? In the desert the SW room seems to be quite hot from the afternoon through setting sun and in a small room where they diverted the HVAC and it’s too small for the room, plus external sun on walls and a wall butted up to a hot garage, it’s pretty brutal. No regular fan does anything and other parts of the house are too cold if you run the a/c just to accommodate that room. I’m trying to find a solution to help, not necessarily correct it, since that probably involves something quite extensive. I was thinking of trying the RAP above the door, but that vent fan would probably help alongside the RAP. If the HVAC vent wasn’t in front of the sunny window, I feel it would help because it seems the hot side of the room just warms that cool air so it can’t move through the room while still cool so any room fan just blows warm air.
Are house in most rooms get so cold that if I turn off the air it's better and the temp throughout the house is so off the bathrooms are usually freezing to where you almost want to plug in a heater until your done showering
We have even cooling in every room as long as the rooms doors are open. Course closing sleeping room doors is common but the room heats up! How do I allow for this. I have closed most registers in the main room of home, helped a little, but suspect air flow is restricted now overall. Single story florida, heatpump.
Sounds like not enough return from the room. Add maybe a jumper duct
Close the vents outside the rooms so it hits inside
Prob central return,no return in each room .cut door bottom so air can be pulled out when door is shut ,if possible add returns to rooms
@@shailenpatel500then coil will freeze
@@kennethbrown5664 we installed a multistage HVAC inside and out. Also added an additional supply duct in master. Multistage is amazing for keep everything even temp.
What is you just put a fan in the basement connected to the duck work and push the cold air from the basement 24/7.
Did you do that?
@@NewHVACGuide yes is it a bad idea? I got a 5 inches fan and just disconnect the duck work for the one room that is always warm and now pushing hot cold air from the basement in the room.
@@L.L I would have the air tested for sure
@@NewHVACGuide what do you mean? The air flow? Or do you think the difference in temperature can cause moisture in the vents?
@@NewHVACGuide well now I am freaked out and put it back the way it was lol. I will have someone come and check the air quality I. The house next week. I always have a dehumidifier running in the basement and the air is around 45% so I hope it was not to humide to push in the duck and created moisture. Thank you
My main bedroom is always hot 🥵 I only have one register there as well help please
Needs a return
Leaving the fan on will just blow hot air. The ducts immediately get hot in the attic.
nope, the system is continuing to receive air from the cooled rooms. Shutting the system off will allow the ducts to get hot (if in the attic) then when the system turns back on that hot air (but still not as hot as attic air temperature) must blow out into the rooms. On super hot days it's best to leave the fan in the "on" position. (daytime only!) Then the room temps do not fluctuate but stay even as the system turns on and off as needed.
@@amtrakusa1so you're okay with systems being vented into the attic space
If you live in two story the ducts are in between floors.
@me4654 I don't understand what you mean by systems being vented into attic spaces because the whole ac system is a closed system if you leave the fan on it will jus pull the cool air from the rest of the house into the return and back out the registers
Agree, don't leave the thermostat on in cooling; it'll increase humidity and the air will pick up heat as it travel thru the duct and equipment in the attic. Fan mode run at about 35-50% speed, the slower the air travel thru the duct the more heat it pick up. Bad idea.
In the summer the basement is colder than the rest of the house.
Good point!
Reduce duct truck right and balancing needed,no your cfm math
I have half a room
Help me , where are the dampers . I know I have them .
Usually on the collars
Why are you yelling?
Sorry 😞
Let him yell it might stick in your brain 🧠 and learn something
This man could've easily lowered it. He's just complaining cuz his manhood hurts
Why is there so many HVAC installers. Is there no inspections for the rated btu per room size...
😂
great info, but my god, you've got a loud shrill screamy voice. what is it with americans and the constant screaming?
I'm first forever
Here have a cookie 🍪
That's impossible. You know Adam was the first man!
@@bobboscarato1313 I'm Adam's twin
@@CCCC-tq8yo No way; you ain't!
The problem is that you know your stuff, but you are not what it seems like as a person and character in your videos.
It doesn’t matter how great your skills are, and how you perceive yourself, but so much personal experience your character is so flaws from an your EGO - judgmental and what you see it’s not what you get and I’m not talking about your information.
How do you do anything is all you do everything so you can talk to talk and it doesn’t matter how many licenses or credentials you have not been humble and making assumptions without knowing the facts there’s a whole lot more than servicing, fixing air condition units.
You need to pick up some self-help books of how not just talked to talk, but walk to work when you are in the people business.
For those of you who will read this you need to understand that this is not a hate message. This is a huge Favor message.
This guy should stick with videos and information, so Griffin here will keep the company reputation …🤬.
No, I am not the guy to ever do this type of things as I have much better things to do but just happened that his video popped up as apparently, I still subscribe to his channel so everything that I said is not made up story, and I’m not gonna get to details, especially coming from a veteran special forces ranger🇺🇸
You sound like a hater 🤦♂️
that is some tough engrish to read
Are you okay? This comment sounds like you're under the influence.
A veteran special forces ranger ….. lol 😂
Sir, this is a Wendy's.
do NOT turn the stat to on. you will regret it especially in the south east with high humidity