I was so confused on how the bottom outlet worked when the neutral from the 14-3 wasn't connected. Then it clicked that they you didn't break the neutral on the outlet. Very informative. Thank you.
Thank you. Breaking off the metal tab, so one outlet provides constant power, and the other is controlled by the switch was "a little detail" overlooked by about a half dozen TH-cam "electricians" I researched until you mentioned it. I appreciate your detailed breakdown and review of the work.👍🏽✌🏾
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I was confused as to why my new plug powering the dishwasher and the garbage disposal connected to on/off switch did not cut off when plugged in. Made my DIY day. 😃
Thank you very much for doing this video. I'm not a professional electrician, but have been replacing bad light switches in a unit on the property. Some of the wall outlets lose power when turning off the actual light. The power line coming into that room is the end of the line for that side of the property and controls the whole room. Then having to piggyback multiple outlets and a closet light switch. Lol This video was very informative and very detailed. Thanks again, now I can get this done without wasting much more time or pulling out my hair! 😂😂
Great video! Is there a video for the following? I want to install a new ceiling fan with light that has black, white, and red wires. The current switch in the wall only has black and white. How would I add/install an additional wire in the wall for this?
Wonderfully useful video. My house is mid 70's build. I found a split receptacle wire with two wire 14 gauge where the white wire must have been hot. It was disconected at the originating box. Totally confusing until I saw this video and the comments.
Very helpful and clear w/one exception: You left the neutral wire over at the switch off the switch as a loner but it looks like you attached the other end of that neutral on the plugs neutral side bottom...how come? Why not leave it off the plug like the other end loner...it seems to serve no purpose connected. What am I missing? Thx for your video!
I’m super late to the party but decided to answer you anyway. You’re right, it serve no purpose right now. But if you eventually tap into that switch to add another outlet or if you decide to add a switch with a timer or a lighted switch you’ll need that neutral. You then have to find where’s that stupid wire is not plugged or if it’s broken. So it’s nice practice to always fully terminate your box. In such a simple setup it’s pretty easy to resolve but add a dozen outlets with split and without, a couple more switches and then come back in 10 years….
2020 nec 404.2(C). No neutral is necessary in the switchbox with the switch that controls a recepticle. Your video could have been done by re-identify the white wire as hot and connecting it to the switch like the red wire was. For the home owners, the old nec phrase was down on white, up on black, sending power (hot) on the white wire to the switch and returning power from the switch to the recepticle on black. Good video though.
Thanks, I was looking for this and questioning myself. Also, why even connect the neutral from the 14/3 (assuming you wanted to use red) , it seems like an unnecessary risk. I mean, I can see why someone might want to use a red wire but the neutral threw me off.
I hate that they don't show the date of the video anymore, but this 3-wire deal is only needed now, if my understanding is correct, because of recent code changes that assume people want smart switches and such. Otherwise, a 14-2 as a carrier would do the job to the switch, but I think code may have changed. Not 100% sure though... it may have only changed for 3-way or something like that.
My garbage disposal is plugged into an outlet controlled by a wall switch. I discovered both outlets seem to be controlled, not just the top where the disposal is plugged in. I need to use one of the outlets for my Reverse Osmosis system (always on). What do I do?? After turning the breaker off...do I open it up and pull that tab off? Or is it much more involved than that? Any insight would be helpful. Thank you for this informative video.
Very helpful. My issue is all 3 hot wires are black so i have no idea which ones to pigtail. The genius that wired this a decade ago backstabbed all 3 black wires into a residential grade outlet. I just pulled it out to find a melted mess!
Very clear explanation. Thank you very much. I have one question that I search around couldn't find the answer. I want to replace the old range hood but the new one is 220V voltage in stead of 110v. As fast as I understand that in the kitchen there is only one 220v outlet for the stove/range applicance. Is that possible I can splite the 220v outlet into 2, so that one for the stove/range and one for the range hood? If so, can you show me how? Or you suggest to me with other solution. Thank you for your help in advance.
Great video. Is it possible to add an additional receptacle from this circuit. I have this circuit in my kitchen island, the switch powers the garbage disposal and the other outlet is for my dishwasher. How can I grab power from this circuit to add a receptacle on the side of my island.
can this be done in reverse? i have the 3 wires coming in with the power that was connected to the switch and the two wires on the other side of the wall connected to the receptical.
First off all thanks for a clear explanation. QQ. Is there a need to use 14/3. The Neutral from the 14/3 that is connected to the lower silver screw in the receptacle does not seem to do anything as the other end is capped anyway. That being the case why can’t we use 14/2 and using the black tape mark it as the hot. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
so you really don't need to connect the white from the 14-3 to the outlet since it does not connect at anything at the switch, correct? If you used 14-2 for both the outlet and the switch, would you connect the white wire in place of the red on both the outlet and the switch, place a piece of red shrink wrap on both ends of the white wire to indicate it is being used in place of the red?
We are replacing all our outlets in a bedroom. Originally the set was the top outlets were on a switch and bottoms were always hot. We didn't break the tab in any accepg the one by the bed so we could control it from the switch in a lamp. But it's not working. Both outlets are still hot. Any advice?
I recently installed a ceiling fan using light switch to power light on fan. On light switch I have one black connected to top for the fan, then at the bottom I have 2 blacks connected together (original one comes the attic, other below assuming is outlet where lamp once lived) to a pigtail connected to the bottom of the light switch. The light works and ceiling fan also. Prior to doing this, I never had a center light in the ceiling, I had to plug a lamp to an outlet on the bottom right which was source of power on/off. Ever since I did this my outlet is not providing power anymore, I tried plugging TV nada, I’m lost and need help because it’s driving me crazy 🤯🤯🤯 am I missing a step? This outlet in question looks like it also powers 2 more outlets. On the light switch box I see RED wire, where the lamp was connected I also noticed another RED wire. Those the red wire need to be used again to power all 3 outlets? need guidance.
what if the switch your dealin with is double throw switch? does this change this concept? i have 3 lights that plug into my ceiling boxes..... i had wired to my double switch so i could only turn one entry light on if i wanted or flip both switches for all the ligths......... I since added a heater to my ceiling and I need of the outlets to be hot all the time for the heater plug. why im watching this vid to learn how to make a receptacle hot permantley and one switched.
Can you use a 14/2 wire for that entire set up instead of the 14/3? I have an outlet that has 3 sets of 14/2 wires. One is going from power to outlet, one set is coming from a switch and one wire going to another outlet down the line. I was going to connect the switch wire to the bottom and the other two sets i was going to combine/pigtail them and put it on top. Please let me know if that's acceptable. thanks
Yes, from the switched receptacle to the switch you can use the white wire as a hot wire (switch leg). Mark the wire with black or red electrical tape at each end to designate hot, not neutral in this case.
is there a video that you have which explains what to do when the power is coming in through a dual gang switch box first and the outlet is at the "end" of the circuit? I cannot for the life of my figure out how to sort what I need. I need the same result you've described here, split outlet.
How do I reverse this? Bought a home with an outlet wired this way, do I just buy a new plug that has the connection still in tact and just wire it in normally? I guess I can disregard the extra red hot wire?
When testing for absence of power on a duplex receptacle with a tester, and you find there is no power to the top receptacle, can you assume that there is also no power to the lower receptacle?
Hey, is it possible to wire a switch outlet combo to control a switch outlet and a constant on one. The switch is for a garbage disposal. If it's possible can you make a video please.
Did you just break the tab????I have the same issues with garbage dispo/dishwash and trying to figure out how to switch a regular outlet to a gfci outlet it’s a 14/3 cable
With this same scenario with a switch powering a split outlet. How can I add a dimmable switch powering a new chandelier I installed? Do I get power from the switch or I just add a dimmable switch replacing the old switch?😅
What happens if before I put a new outlet in the top outlet on all four outlets it’s controlled by the switch. I put one brand new outlet in and now none of them are controlled by the switch and I wired it the same way it was.
This was extremely helpful. I do have a couple of questions: 1. Can you add a light to the switch power source? 2. Can you put a dimmer on the switch? Thank you!
1 are you talking, connecting the light to the switch? Be pacific 2. Yes. You gotta do it from the switch to the dimmer or you can buy a switch that has a dimmer in it
I have a switched outlet that only has a black wire and a white wire. House was built mid-60's. The homeowner claims the bottom was switched and the top always hot. Is that possible? Maybe she is confused and both top and bottom were switched
Curious why I am not getting power to the switch at all, I am getting power to half an outlet but no power to the switch even breaking off center tab, then I have another switch in same room that doesn't work but it has full power in the outlet top & bottom but again switches are not working even after buying new rocker switches & outlets?
I have 4 ceiling lights in a row in my hallway. I am trying to separate them in 2 sets by attaching 2 switches, one to control the first 2 lights and the other switch to control the last 2. I am pulling power from the 3rd light from the ceiling. There are 2 14/2 wires in the ceiling, one is the power source and the other (with no power) I believe is going to the 4th light fixture. Could you help me with the wiring in this scenario.
Hi! I think the double gang switches to end of run fixture is best for this. All you have to do is add 1 extra light after each fixture. Check out the video I made on this. m.th-cam.com/video/mxbaqegYxBU/w-d-xo.html
Well detailed and understandable for us DIY's. I do have a question. If the switch is wired with 14.2 wire, can I use a pig tail from the black wire that would function as the red wire?
Excellent! Question: The N wire you have capped in the switch box -- if you have other neutrals in this box that are all tied together, could you attach this N wire to the bundled other N's?
Can you build a visual scenario, where one is bringing power from a ceiling flat Halo LED light to a new switch to control a different pair of lights. So my story is similar to the mentioned scenario. I am pulling power from this existing ceiling light and extending the wiring to these 2 new switches. There are 4 existing LED lights in the hallway that are being controlled by 2 other switches, one on the top of the stairway and the other at the bottom of the stairway and so the 4 LED lights are being divided by a new wall, where the 2 end lights are now in a room and that's where the 2 switches come in. One to work with the other stairway switches to control the hallway lights and the other to control and room lights. Thank you so much. You are awesome in explaining the different ways to get lights situated.
Your stairway swtiches are 3-way switches... different animal, different connections. You will need to figure out if your new application requires 2 "rooms" each with 3-ways, or just 1x 3-way for the stairway. The basic thing to know is you need a loop from your source black to your source white that has the load (whether 2 lights or 10 lights - you just wire them in parallel). And your switch breaks the loop. That's it. We cook up these connection scenarios to because romex cable always has 2 conductors, or we use 3 conductor because there is a 3-ways, or we have to carry an unswitched black and white into a box to power something like a smart switch that requires power itself.
What would happen if I plugged a 2 plug power splitter into an outlet that's half hot? I ask because I almost did this before I realized it's a half hot outlet
Great explanation. I need to do this in a bath renovation. Would it be acceptable to NOT connect the neutral wire of the 14/3 at the receptacle box and just terminate it as you did in the switch box since it's not used ?
Is there any reason you cant flip the set up and have the top be switch controlled? Watched a Canadian video with that set up but i have 2 middle of the run outlets that are currently switch controlled on the bottom and want the top to be so the wall sconce plug will reach easier.
I removed the metal that makes the connection in the outlet and now one part has no power at all. Following every direction. Any ideas on why there is no power to the top outlet now?
Just did some research on this. Unlike here, I'm using 12/2 for both circuits, so it's important NOT to break away the connecting tab on the neutral side.. as it'll act as a common neutral for both receptacles, since in my configuration, the white wire coming from the switch will be "hot" so the common neutral will carry the power back to the breaker Let me know if that makes sense
My switch seems to control both outlets on/off by the switch does that mean it’s wired differently?I would like to get power from outlet to run led pot lights does that mean my tabs not broken off?
Care must be given here: Always turn off power first and double check you did. Two scenarios just to mind. 1) they sent power to the recepticle box first( like he did) but they connected the hot to the switch wire and bypassed the recepticle in the box. Then they came back from the switch to the recepticle without breaking the tab. This is fixable by following his video. 2) they sent power to the switch first. I cannot see a fix without replacing the cable from the switch to the recepticle with 14/3 or 12/3. Red as constant hot, black as switched hot, white as neutral and bare for ground. Do not be afraid to get a pro involved to help.
Is the neutral at the switch necessary for code? Or can I just use 14/2 and make neutral hot with tape because that's how my teacher taught us here in California? I'm currently in school to become a electrician.
Somehow I think you’re spying on me because every video that you upload is based on my house bcause it’s what I need to repair. Ps. If you need more content, please drop by anytime.
If the white wire in the 3 wire cable is redundant, then it can be marked by red tape to replace the red wire. As long as it is clearly identified, this will save the higher cost of using 3 wire cable. Agree ? The switch will still work independently.
I would like to have the always on outlet on the bottom instead of the top That way you can plug in a power adapter on the lower outlet because it takes up so much space that way you can plug a light in the upper outlet and have room
Good job as usual
Thank you so much of the great video 👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I was so confused on how the bottom outlet worked when the neutral from the 14-3 wasn't connected. Then it clicked that they you didn't break the neutral on the outlet. Very informative. Thank you.
Thank you. Breaking off the metal tab, so one outlet provides constant power, and the other is controlled by the switch was "a little detail" overlooked by about a half dozen TH-cam "electricians" I researched until you mentioned it. I appreciate your detailed breakdown and review of the work.👍🏽✌🏾
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! I was confused as to why my new plug powering the dishwasher and the garbage disposal connected to on/off switch did not cut off when plugged in. Made my DIY day. 😃
This was not what I was looking for but it was so informative, so I watched all the way to the end. 👍🏾
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you very much for doing this video. I'm not a professional electrician, but have been replacing bad light switches in a unit on the property. Some of the wall outlets lose power when turning off the actual light. The power line coming into that room is the end of the line for that side of the property and controls the whole room. Then having to piggyback multiple outlets and a closet light switch. Lol This video was very informative and very detailed. Thanks again, now I can get this done without wasting much more time or pulling out my hair! 😂😂
Thanks!
Great video! Is there a video for the following? I want to install a new ceiling fan with light that has black, white, and red wires. The current switch in the wall only has black and white. How would I add/install an additional wire in the wall for this?
Wonderfully useful video. My house is mid 70's build. I found a split receptacle wire with two wire 14 gauge where the white wire must have been hot. It was disconected at the originating box. Totally confusing until I saw this video and the comments.
Very helpful and clear w/one exception: You left the neutral wire over at the switch off the switch as a loner but it looks like you attached the other end of that neutral on the plugs neutral side bottom...how come? Why not leave it off the plug like the other end loner...it seems to serve no purpose connected. What am I missing? Thx for your video!
I’m super late to the party but decided to answer you anyway.
You’re right, it serve no purpose right now. But if you eventually tap into that switch to add another outlet or if you decide to add a switch with a timer or a lighted switch you’ll need that neutral. You then have to find where’s that stupid wire is not plugged or if it’s broken. So it’s nice practice to always fully terminate your box.
In such a simple setup it’s pretty easy to resolve but add a dozen outlets with split and without, a couple more switches and then come back in 10 years….
Thank you. I wired it perfectly but I didn’t break off that tab, so my switch did nothing. Your vid really helped me. Works great now.
Break it off on the copper side only?
@@michaelbartlebaugh754 yeah just like he did in the video. One side only.
Great video. Saved me from searching for some specialty plug. Easy peasy. Thank you.
this video clearly addresses my needs. thanks for clear explanation. like your mock setup a lot. Thanks.
Beautiful explanation! It’s very clear and easy to understand! Thank you!
Best videos! I’ve been a wago user since I first saw you using them in your videos also a claw user. It is a great tool!
2020 nec 404.2(C). No neutral is necessary in the switchbox with the switch that controls a recepticle. Your video could have been done by re-identify the white wire as hot and connecting it to the switch like the red wire was.
For the home owners, the old nec phrase was down on white, up on black, sending power (hot) on the white wire to the switch and returning power from the switch to the recepticle on black.
Good video though.
Thanks, I was looking for this and questioning myself.
Also, why even connect the neutral from the 14/3 (assuming you wanted to use red) , it seems like an unnecessary risk. I mean, I can see why someone might want to use a red wire but the neutral threw me off.
I hate that they don't show the date of the video anymore, but this 3-wire deal is only needed now, if my understanding is correct, because of recent code changes that assume people want smart switches and such. Otherwise, a 14-2 as a carrier would do the job to the switch, but I think code may have changed. Not 100% sure though... it may have only changed for 3-way or something like that.
This is *exactly* what I was thinking... so, in essence, place red tape on the white wire going tto the switch and at the switch.
Thanks for making this Video, it helped me to understand concept clearly.
A good way to know if u have a 20amp outlet is if the hot is in a T shape. 🤙🏻 hope that’s helpful
…. You prefer waygos over wire nuts!?
U got that backwards it's the natural side of the recptical that has a T slot on 20 amp rated recpticals
My garbage disposal is plugged into an outlet controlled by a wall switch. I discovered both outlets seem to be controlled, not just the top where the disposal is plugged in. I need to use one of the outlets for my Reverse Osmosis system (always on). What do I do?? After turning the breaker off...do I open it up and pull that tab off? Or is it much more involved than that? Any insight would be helpful. Thank you for this informative video.
For neutral wires in outlet box, can we also use pigtail method like the black wires ?
Very helpful. My issue is all 3 hot wires are black so i have no idea which ones to pigtail. The genius that wired this a decade ago backstabbed all 3 black wires into a residential grade outlet. I just pulled it out to find a melted mess!
Very clear explanation. Thank you very much. I have one question that I search around couldn't find the answer. I want to replace the old range hood but the new one is 220V voltage in stead of 110v. As fast as I understand that in the kitchen there is only one 220v outlet for the stove/range applicance. Is that possible I can splite the 220v outlet into 2, so that one for the stove/range and one for the range hood? If so, can you show me how? Or you suggest to me with other solution. Thank you for your help in advance.
Great video. Is it possible to add an additional receptacle from this circuit. I have this circuit in my kitchen island, the switch powers the garbage disposal and the other outlet is for my dishwasher. How can I grab power from this circuit to add a receptacle on the side of my island.
can this be done in reverse? i have the 3 wires coming in with the power that was connected to the switch and the two wires on the other side of the wall connected to the receptical.
First off all thanks for a clear explanation. QQ. Is there a need to use 14/3. The Neutral from the 14/3 that is connected to the lower silver screw in the receptacle does not seem to do anything as the other end is capped anyway. That being the case why can’t we use 14/2 and using the black tape mark it as the hot. Looking forward to your reply. Thanks.
New Code Requirement requires this set up. Before Code change, you were correct.
No hablo ingles !! Pero esta muy bien explicado . muchas gracias amigo Dios lo bendiga.
Thank you so much my friend! 🙏🏽😊
so you really don't need to connect the white from the 14-3 to the outlet since it does not connect at anything at the switch, correct? If you used 14-2 for both the outlet and the switch, would you connect the white wire in place of the red on both the outlet and the switch, place a piece of red shrink wrap on both ends of the white wire to indicate it is being used in place of the red?
We are replacing all our outlets in a bedroom. Originally the set was the top outlets were on a switch and bottoms were always hot. We didn't break the tab in any accepg the one by the bed so we could control it from the switch in a lamp. But it's not working. Both outlets are still hot. Any advice?
I recently installed a ceiling fan using light switch to power light on fan. On light switch I have one black connected to top for the fan, then at the bottom I have 2 blacks connected together (original one comes the attic, other below assuming is outlet where lamp once lived) to a pigtail connected to the bottom of the light switch. The light works and ceiling fan also.
Prior to doing this, I never had a center light in the ceiling, I had to plug a lamp to an outlet on the bottom right which was source of power on/off.
Ever since I did this my outlet is not providing power anymore, I tried plugging TV nada, I’m lost and need help because it’s driving me crazy 🤯🤯🤯 am I missing a step? This outlet in question looks like it also powers 2 more outlets. On the light switch box I see RED wire, where the lamp was connected I also noticed another RED wire. Those the red wire need to be used again to power all 3 outlets? need guidance.
Can I add a dimmer switch to that same wiring configuration?
what if the switch your dealin with is double throw switch? does this change this concept? i have 3 lights that plug into my ceiling boxes..... i had wired to my double switch so i could only turn one entry light on if i wanted or flip both switches for all the ligths......... I since added a heater to my ceiling and I need of the outlets to be hot all the time for the heater plug. why im watching this vid to learn how to make a receptacle hot permantley and one switched.
You are the best thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you 🙏🏽 for your support!
Can you use a 14/2 wire for that entire set up instead of the 14/3? I have an outlet that has 3 sets of 14/2 wires. One is going from power to outlet, one set is coming from a switch and one wire going to another outlet down the line. I was going to connect the switch wire to the bottom and the other two sets i was going to combine/pigtail them and put it on top. Please let me know if that's acceptable. thanks
Yes, from the switched receptacle to the switch you can use the white wire as a hot wire (switch leg). Mark the wire with black or red electrical tape at each end to designate hot, not neutral in this case.
And keep the connecting tap intact on the neutral side as it'll act as a common neutral for both receptacles
is there a video that you have which explains what to do when the power is coming in through a dual gang switch box first and the outlet is at the "end" of the circuit? I cannot for the life of my figure out how to sort what I need. I need the same result you've described here, split outlet.
How do I reverse this? Bought a home with an outlet wired this way, do I just buy a new plug that has the connection still in tact and just wire it in normally? I guess I can disregard the extra red hot wire?
Great video, just a question, how will be the wiring for a second outlet ( meaning, 2 outlets controlled by the on/off switch)
Another great and informative video, thank you again!!!
Thank you Ricky!🙏🏽😊
When testing for absence of power on a duplex receptacle with a tester, and you find there is no power to the top receptacle, can you assume that there is also no power to the lower receptacle?
Is there a way to do this just using 14-2?
Hey, is it possible to wire a switch outlet combo to control a switch outlet and a constant on one. The switch is for a garbage disposal. If it's possible can you make a video please.
Did you just break the tab????I have the same issues with garbage dispo/dishwash and trying to figure out how to switch a regular outlet to a gfci outlet it’s a 14/3 cable
With this same scenario with a switch powering a split outlet. How can I add a dimmable switch powering a new chandelier I installed? Do I get power from the switch or I just add a dimmable switch replacing the old switch?😅
What happens if before I put a new outlet in the top outlet on all four outlets it’s controlled by the switch. I put one brand new outlet in and now none of them are controlled by the switch and I wired it the same way it was.
I’m having the same issue. Did you get it resolved?
You teach me a lot thank you sir
This was extremely helpful. I do have a couple of questions:
1. Can you add a light to the switch power source?
2. Can you put a dimmer on the switch?
Thank you!
1 are you talking, connecting the light to the switch? Be pacific
2. Yes. You gotta do it from the switch to the dimmer or you can buy a switch that has a dimmer in it
I have a switched outlet that only has a black wire and a white wire. House was built mid-60's. The homeowner claims the bottom was switched and the top always hot. Is that possible? Maybe she is confused and both top and bottom were switched
Curious why I am not getting power to the switch at all, I am getting power to half an outlet but no power to the switch even breaking off center tab, then I have another switch in same room that doesn't work but it has full power in the outlet top & bottom but again switches are not working even after buying new rocker switches & outlets?
What about if I want to reverse it have 2 hots on all the time
If I want top and bottom outlets to be hot just don’t break the metal tabs right?
Thanks for making it a simple install
It was my pleasure Danny! Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Outstanding explanation. Thank you
I have 4 ceiling lights in a row in my hallway. I am trying to separate them in 2 sets by attaching 2 switches, one to control the first 2 lights and the other switch to control the last 2. I am pulling power from the 3rd light from the ceiling. There are 2 14/2 wires in the ceiling, one is the power source and the other (with no power) I believe is going to the 4th light fixture. Could you help me with the wiring in this scenario.
Hi! I think the double gang switches to end of run fixture is best for this. All you have to do is add 1 extra light after each fixture. Check out the video I made on this. m.th-cam.com/video/mxbaqegYxBU/w-d-xo.html
Well detailed and understandable for us DIY's. I do have a question. If the switch is wired with 14.2 wire, can I use a pig tail from the black wire that would function as the red wire?
Excellent! Question: The N wire you have capped in the switch box -- if you have other neutrals in this box that are all tied together, could you attach this N wire to the bundled other N's?
Can you build a visual scenario, where one is bringing power from a ceiling flat Halo LED light to a new switch to control a different pair of lights. So my story is similar to the mentioned scenario. I am pulling power from this existing ceiling light and extending the wiring to these 2 new switches. There are 4 existing LED lights in the hallway that are being controlled by 2 other switches, one on the top of the stairway and the other at the bottom of the stairway and so the 4 LED lights are being divided by a new wall, where the 2 end lights are now in a room and that's where the 2 switches come in. One to work with the other stairway switches to control the hallway lights and the other to control and room lights. Thank you so much. You are awesome in explaining the different ways to get lights situated.
Thank you so much! From your explanation I will need to try to figure out a diagram, I’m getting kinda confused 😅. Please give me time 🙏🏽
@@FixThisHouse Sure, take your time....
Your stairway swtiches are 3-way switches... different animal, different connections. You will need to figure out if your new application requires 2 "rooms" each with 3-ways, or just 1x 3-way for the stairway. The basic thing to know is you need a loop from your source black to your source white that has the load (whether 2 lights or 10 lights - you just wire them in parallel). And your switch breaks the loop. That's it. We cook up these connection scenarios to because romex cable always has 2 conductors, or we use 3 conductor because there is a 3-ways, or we have to carry an unswitched black and white into a box to power something like a smart switch that requires power itself.
Thanks, Pare!
Where can I find a split outlet with bottom controlled by switch that has a built-in USB port?
Can you show how to continue with multiple outlets after the first
What if the plug has two switches that control it, would that make any difference?
Have any videos on how to fish 🎣 wire through finished drywall with no attic access?also another good one would be what not to do to get electrocuted.
Hi! Thank you for giving me topics to cover! I will have them out soon! Stay tuned! 🙏🏽😊
How do I do this with an existing switch? That is already wired in a closed wall
I noticed you broke the tab on the outlet on the right hand side what happens if you break the tab on the left hand side and not the right hand side?
👍Thanks kindly 🤗
So clear & very helpful 🎉
Great job, very informative!
Thank you! This is super helpful
How do you do a split receptacle 3way?
What do you mean by 3 way?
Great video, how would I connect a ceiling fan to this set up? Thanks
Awesome video....great explanations. 👍 Thank you
Really appreciate you for this video! This worked perfectly for our 1960 home renovation! Thoughts on doing the same but split a GFCI?
Cannot split a GFCI.
What would happen if I plugged a 2 plug power splitter into an outlet that's half hot? I ask because I almost did this before I realized it's a half hot outlet
Great explanation. I need to do this in a bath renovation. Would it be acceptable to NOT connect the neutral wire of the 14/3 at the receptacle box and just terminate it as you did in the switch box since it's not used ?
My question as well...
Thanks, super helpful!
Is there any reason you cant flip the set up and have the top be switch controlled? Watched a Canadian video with that set up but i have 2 middle of the run outlets that are currently switch controlled on the bottom and want the top to be so the wall sconce plug will reach easier.
No reason, your choice.
Good job brother 👏 👍
You are incredible! Thank you.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I removed the metal that makes the connection in the outlet and now one part has no power at all. Following every direction. Any ideas on why there is no power to the top outlet now?
Did the electric code change so that you can't put a black piece of tape on the white wire?
do you break off the tabs on each side of the electrical receptical or just the brass side?
Just did some research on this. Unlike here, I'm using 12/2 for both circuits, so it's important NOT to break away the connecting tab on the neutral side.. as it'll act as a common neutral for both receptacles, since in my configuration, the white wire coming from the switch will be "hot" so the common neutral will carry the power back to the breaker
Let me know if that makes sense
@@priyanknaik6458 makes sense thank you
My switch controls the top outlet only. The bottom outlet is always live but is not controlled by the switch. Hope that makes sense and helps.
Can you do this, but with the power coming from the switch switch?
Yes I also would like to see the demonstration of that situation.
What happens if you accidently connect the neautral wires backwards?
Super helpful, thank you
My switch seems to control both outlets on/off by the switch does that mean it’s wired differently?I would like to get power from outlet to run led pot lights does that mean my tabs not broken off?
Did you break off the brass side tab?
Care must be given here:
Always turn off power first and double check you did.
Two scenarios just to mind.
1) they sent power to the recepticle box first( like he did) but they connected the hot to the switch wire and bypassed the recepticle in the box. Then they came back from the switch to the recepticle without breaking the tab. This is fixable by following his video.
2) they sent power to the switch first. I cannot see a fix without replacing the cable from the switch to the recepticle with 14/3 or 12/3. Red as constant hot, black as switched hot, white as neutral and bare for ground.
Do not be afraid to get a pro involved to help.
Is the neutral at the switch necessary for code? Or can I just use 14/2 and make neutral hot with tape because that's how my teacher taught us here in California? I'm currently in school to become a electrician.
Another commenter made the same observation. Yes, that is a simpler way.
What happens if you don't take off the tab in the middle of the receptacle?
so helpful! what would I do if I want to have the top controlled by one switch and bottom by another switch?
That’s a great question and how NEC prefers it. Plus he cloud have re-identify the neutral as a hot
Gonna load a video to show you the difference
Great video, do you have a video on how to connect a ceiling fan to a switch that controls an outlet?
Can you do a video demonstrating a 3 way with this system
Very helpful. Thanks!
Ok so where does the white wire go to again? I think I might need to find a video on how to DIY hire an electrician for this little project
Somehow I think you’re spying on me because every video that you upload is based on my house bcause it’s what I need to repair. Ps. If you need more content, please drop by anytime.
Really?! Haha, If I lived close by I would be more that happy to help! 👍🏽😊
Should wirenut neutrals and not use receptacle as the wire nut
Can you do a video with half hot outlet with power to switch ?
If the white wire in the 3 wire cable is redundant, then it can be marked by red tape to replace the red wire.
As long as it is clearly identified, this will save the higher cost of using 3 wire cable.
Agree ?
The switch will still work independently.
GERAT JOB
Thank you 🙏🏽!
What if the power source is going through the switch first?
Why don’t you remove the other silver tab?
Why wasn’t the white wire used?
Thank you
I would like to have the always on outlet on the bottom instead of the top That way you can plug in a power adapter on the lower outlet because it takes up so much space that way you can plug a light in the upper outlet and have room