Thank You Terry. You saved me at least a $100 for replacing a kitchen outlet. I replaced the outlet with no problem at all, it was easy enough, but the breaker kept tripping. I did NOT realize the two outlets are actually connected with a flat metal clip. After I watched your video, I broke the connection between the upper and lower outlet, now both outlets work like a charm. I have liked your video, and also subscribed. Thank you very much. Tom
Thank you so much. We live in a house built in the 70’s and we had no idea we were dealing with an old-school split receptacle. We looked everywhere to find a video with ‘red wire’ - then we found you. Thanks again 😊
It's not that rare! At least in Canada that is! I'm still a fan of them myself, but I'm "old school" :-) Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment. I hope that you 'like' it, and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the bell?
Terry explained this so simply, and saved me the frustration when I saw red, black and white wires on a damaged receptacle. I also now know what the little hole on my wire stripper is for. I used to use my stripper, then my needle nose plier for the hook.
Happy to help out! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this excellent video. I recently replaced all the outlets in my house and couldn’t understand why the kitchen ones would trip immediately. I can’t thank you enough for the clear and concise explanation!
Not an electrician, but I've played one on TV. But! seriously... thank you for this demonstration of The Olde Wayes of doing things. It remains! a useful bit o' information to have stored on a shelf in the ol' cranial warehouse. I did have to laugh for a second when we witness your unsafe pliers handling. Yes, you know and I know you had the breaker switched off, but... Kids, don't try that at home! This man's a professional, and all that. Cheers.
Thanks for watching! I had to watch it here myself to see what was you reference to unsafe plier handling? I assume using it as a pointer? Or did it appear that my hand was on the metal and not the insulated handles? Anyhow, regardless of that, with the power off as it should be, not a problem there that I saw! Incidentally, I am an electrician, and I have also been on network TV!
@@theinternetelectrician You're a good sport! my good man. At one point it appears as if you almost jamb the needlenose pliers' tips into the hot and neutral slots. lmao. "Unsafe pliers handling" - that's a riff on, you know... stuff we dare not speak of in this Utopia of ours. Cheers. Best to you!
HUGE THANKS! saved me tons of money. My breaker kept tripping. That tiny little bit of copper tab hint was priceless! It should tell you that on the package
Thanks Terry. Our kitchen microwave receptacle and one additional receptacle were on a 2 pole 15a circuit. When I went to update the plugs, I was scratching my head why they used 14/3 instead of 14/2, and why the breaker kept tripping. Mystery solved!!! You've got a new subscriber!
Can’t thank you enough for the precise and practical instructions. This was exactly what I needed to replace my dishwasher/garbage disposal outlet. SO grateful for your expertise!
Thanks, Terry. After watching your video, it became clear to me for the first time after so long time of not understanding how a 3-wire split receptacle circuit works. I'll look at your other videos for more knowledge on home electrical wiring.
Thanks for the kind words Egor. Please like and subscribe as I’m releasing a 6-part series of videos soon on the subject of helping out the DIY’er, and I’m working on a new course that will launch in August called “weekend wiring warrior”. Stay tuned!
OMG thank you so much! after replacing all my outlets in the kitchen and blowing the main power several times I am so glad you made this video! Excellent sharing of knowledge!
Terry, you've solved my problem with my son's condo ... thank you so much. Why this video did not ranked higher behoves me ... it was the only video (out of 20) to provide a solution ... keep up the great work.
After spending so much time trying figure out why my breaker was blowing.Thank you VERY much for your tutorial.Helped me big time.It was the tab! Imagine that.Great help.
Thank you so much!! This was exactly the step I did not know I needed to do! I replaced an old receptacle and it kept shorting under load. Thank you again
AH! Thanks, I forgot to remove the tab to split it. Thanks! I thought the breaker needed replacing, and I do not touch the breaker box stuff, so this saved me a service call and probably a couple hundred bucks. Thanks again sir!
Absolutely clear easy to follow explanation. Sure appreciate how you covered All aspects of Installation and function. Removing the tab was the part I was missing
Buddy you just saved my day I thought I did everything right and sure enough the breaker popped I had no idea about the tabs ,very helpful video thank you🍻
Hi Mark. Yes, pigtailing is the way to go. Even though you have only 2 white wires and those terminals look tempting, I've had an inspector flag that and make me do pigtails even on the neutrals. The blacks and reds obviously need to be pig-tailed as there is only one terminal each for them to go on. Unless you use the terminal screw and the quick connects, but I never recommend using the push-in connections. So short answer, you are correct. Pigtails it is!
I assume you are referring to the ruby? That was my adopted Grandfather's, and then passed on to my Father, and on to me after my Dad passed away in 2016. Hasn't left my finger since then. Happy to have helped you out! Thanks for watching!
So, as you mentioned, I made this exact mistake. I now understand exactly how the circuit works. Unfortunately for me, my breaker was defective and didn’t pop and the main to the apartment triggered. Needed an electrician to come re reset it. Good lesson. A mistake I will never make again.
All breakers are designed to trip on a short circuit condition, no matter if the branch circuit breaker is a 15A or 100A or 200A main. The main breaker was just quicker on the draw! The older FPE stab-lok breakers were notorious for not tripping when they should. I once accidentally cut through a live 14/2 cable on a 15A breaker, and the arcing and sparking that occurred behind the truss (where I couldn't see it) took a big bite out of my reciprocating saw blade and cut the cable right through, yet the breaker didn't trip! Thanks for watching!
This video just explained everything I needed to know. Could not figure out why my kitchen outlet was connected to a two pole 15 amp breaker. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video! This is exactly what I have in my older kitchen (no GFI) and this is exactly what happened to me! I was unaware I needed to break the tab, wired up a new outlet, turned on the bridge circuit and tripped my entire power panel. I put the old receptacles back and was going to leave well enough alone, but now I feel confident about trying it again.
Very clear installation., but what happens in the white neutral white line when both receptacles are used at 15 amps each which then equals 30 amps for the single neutral line, when each line is only rated at 15 amps?
That explanation is in the video, but here it is. The neutral in this correctly connected circuit (a properly installed 2-pole breaker) ensures that the neutral only carries the unbalanced load. So if there is 10A being drawn on one half of an outlet, and 8A on the other, then the neutral only has 2A on it. So the maximum is whatever one half may draw, even with nothing on the other. With AC power, and the sine wave structure of current / voltage, when one leg of the power is on the top side of the curve, the other leg is 180 degrees opposite. Thus 240V between them, but each referenced to neutral is 120V each
@@theinternetelectrician Hi Terry. Thank you for your written reply. Getting old I always do better reading instructions rather than listening to them. Much appreciated!
Thank you so much terry I can’t believe how much anxiety u saved me I am a new apprentice and was changing my house kitchen receptacle and wasn’t aware of this when I went to turn it on I tripped the breaker and the main breaker after work I’m going to go and fix this. 🎉🎉🎉
You're referring to a switched receptacle here? And yes, if you pig-tail off the constant hot and the neutral, what you are asking is possible. And you could come off of either hot in a kitchen split receptacle arrangement, but then you are not compliant with code due to the number of split kitchen receptacles allowed on one 2-15A circuit is that makes more than 2.
@@theinternetelectrician it’s in a bedroom. Just trying to add a receptacle behind a wall mounted tv, but the outlet is a half-hot and I wasn’t quite sure how to do it
@@theinternetelectrician That’s what I’m thinking! Just adding the new one like 4 or 5 feet above the existing outlet. I just don’t wanna end up with a TV that I can only watch when the light is turned on 😂
Best advice would be to leave it as is. Personally I like the split kitchen receptacle method, and no need (code wise) to change it as it's grandfathered in to the code of the day. But if you would feel better with GFCI protection, I would change the supply breaker to a 2P 15A GFCI breaker and then leave the splits as they are.
Thanks Terry. I shorted out a plug in my kitchen and ran into this problem when I replaced it. Could not figure out why the breaker wouldn’t go back on. I disagree that it’s a good wiring style. I feel like it’s one of those little bombs that tradespeople use to obfuscate their, for the most part, simple and mundane work. In an attempt to keep the normals away from DIY. Sure appreciate people such as yourself making information freely available.
Once you understand though, it is a good system in my humble opinion. You have 2 full, 15A circuits in one outlet split top and bottom. Another over-looked benefit of this type of an outlet, is if you should move to North America from the European grid and bring some of your 220V appliances, change the receptacle to the 15A/250V, and put on the proper plug on the appliance, all set!
I agree its good idea the wiring but people they don’t know its a puzzle like me when i change mine the orange and yellow wire ire connected to the gold but here you sir you told us to cut the small thing si that it come out only 120v coz if they together it will be 240v… anyway thank you so much for your video 😂
Thanks for this video! I learned something new by watching it. Didn’t know I had to cut the metal between the red and black wire to make two separate circuits. I changed a plug that the top plug was controlled by a switch and when it stayed hot I looked for your video and solved the problem.
If I have this running in my kitchen for the outlets, red white and black wire, can I put a GFCI in? And what would that look like in terms of the wiring?
It's not that easy, because these circuits share a neutral. This makes things more complicated, and you actually lose by doing so. Right now you have 2 circuits at 15A each. To go to GFCI outlets, you have to use just one of the hot wires, and you can't size up the breaker size to 20A because you have #14 wire. So basically you are cutting your supply to kitchen appliances in half. I would ask why? I get this question a lot so you're not alone. I will do a video on this subject, so thanks for the trigger! GFCI is great protection if you plan on touching the prongs of an appliance plug while soaking wet, in your bare feet, on a tile or concrete floor, but otherwise I'd just stay with the 3-wire split circuits you have. Others may disagree with me vehemently, but this is just my opinion. Thanks for watching, commenting, and I hope that you have "liked" and subscribed to my channel? I'm on a push for the 100K sub milestone. Not sure why that's important, but I think TH-cam sends me a plaque to hang on the wall!
@@theinternetelectrician awesome thank you very much for the reply. The reason why is just for safety for the 1.5 m distance from the sink. I was just putting them in as per code in Canada here. I did some research as well previous to your reply, and found out that I could add a GFI breaker to the panel. How to do that? I guess I will have to figure that out. But I really appreciate you replying. And looking forward to the next video and congratulations on the road to 100 K.
@@TheFlowshizle you are correct. I am also Canadian, my training in Alberta Canada. The new code requires the GFCI protection, but any installation prior to new and revised codes are grandfathered in and aren't required to be changed to adhere to the current ones unless you do a remodel or alter the electrical system. If you are concerned about safety then yes, the 15A 2-pole GFCI breaker(s) is another way to go that I neglected to mention and is by far the best option if you want to have that extra protection on those outlets. Thanks for the reminder of that!
Yeah, there are so many different types of boxes out there! In my day,.... (walking uphill to school in 6 ft of snow, etc) We only had about 2 or 3 different styles of metal boxes. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
How do you wire this if you are continuing on to another receptacle? Also, we have a stablok panel, does it matter where the double breaker is located on the busbar to get the different phases?
Great comment! You have to pig-tail your conductors to continue the circuit to another outlet, and yes, good ol' FPE Sta-blok. The only panel that will enable the installation of a 2-pole wafer breaker on the same hot buss. So yes, you must ensure that it is installed across the barrier, otherwise the neutral current compounds instead of cancels out. Thanks for watching! I hope you have subscribed? And gave the video a 'like'!
Thank you very much.. That is an awesome video, clearly explain the problem i ran into, that little tab that needed to be broken. Terry, you just saved me lots of money and frustration. Thanks again.
Hi Terry, My Kitchen is wired that way ... but with all the new outlets that have USB connection for charging device, I would like too had one of those outlet, do I just condemn the red wire with a marrette and hook up my outlet with the black and white like usual ? Thanks
Yeah, that would work. However I've found those combination outlets to be way too expensive for the value added. Consider getting a plug in unit that has multiple outlets along with usb ports. Not as aesthetically pleasing, but usually have more ports, etc. Just make sure the one you use in the split receptacles has just one actual 'plug' that taps into the receiving outlet. I'm not sure if they make one that grabs both halves of the receptacle, but if they do, and aren't split inside the combo device you'd have a short circuit condition that would trip the breaker (at best) and likely destroy the device.
thank you very much for the useful video. can I change this split outlet from 120 volt to 240 volt? I have a European made device that requires 240 volt line that i like to use. I was told that it is possible by using a dual volt outlet? please advice and if possible how to wire the new outlet..thank you in advance
Yes, absolutely! You just need to use the correct receptacle, and the matching cord cap on the appliances. 15A/240V and connect red,black, and ground. Just cap off the white wire. That’s another bonus with these split receptacle method of kitchen wiring.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you so much for your kind and prompt reply. I thought I had s split outlet in my kitchen but i dont. What is have is that there are two outlet about 3 feet apart from each other and these outlets are out of phase. When I connect one lead of my volt meter to one outlet and the other lead to the second outlet I read 240 volt. Can I run wire from these outlets to a new outlet to provide me with 240 volt? I was thinking to take.two new wires connect each wire to the existing outlets so that I have two black wire along with my ground coming from the outlets into my new outlet and leave the neutral wire disconnect In the new outlet. This configuration will give me a 240 volt outlet that I can use. It is possible? And if it is then if I am using the 240 outlet can I use the existing outlet that I borrowed the power from at the same time? Hopefully my explanation is clear enough and make sense to you...thank you
@@saboorsaboor704 No, you can't do it this way. However there is a way to safely do this. You need to show me where your outlets in the kitchen are, what breakers controls them, and where you would like to place your 240V appliance(s). Draw me a rough sketch and then just take a photo of it and send to terry@electrical-online.com I will explain what can be done, and if it's out of your comfort level, you can hire it done, an easy and quick job for a good electrical contractor. There should be no more than 2 outlets on one circuit. If there is an odd number of receptacles, then one would be on a circuit by itself. That one will be the best candidate for the conversion. If not, then you will have to have 2 of your existing outlets changed over to 240V
damn this is close to what i'm looking for what if you want to wire a 12/3 from 20amp double pole breaker to power two areas i recently got a deck and by the door i want a sconce an outdoor outlet and indoor outlet on one side of the patio doors and then wire an outlet on the opposite side for a beverage fridge. What would that look like?
Run the 12/3 to the first outlet (receptacle), and use a deep box there. Run a 2-wire to the other receptacle, then to switch, then to the sconce light. From the first box, also run a 2-wire over to the beverage fridge (saving at least 12 beer for me). Connect the convenience outlets to the black hot wire and shared neutral. Connect the red wire and shared neutral to the 2-wire going over to the fridge.
On mine I have two cables (must be the first receptacle - what's the right proper name for that situation where it splits off to continue the circuit?) one has the red/ black/neutral/gr and one just the black/neutral/gr. There will also be two neutrals: Now do I also break the tabs for the neutrals? And How do I connect that extra black that continues on with the circuit: pig tail? What is the proper name for that situation? Great to the point video- just not my exact situation- Thanks
@@johngaspar4425 OK, The neutrals can go on the terminals of the receptacle and DO NOT split that tab. (or you could splice them together with a pig-tail), and yes, on the hot side put red on one terminal, splice the black wires and pig-tail to the other terminal. DO split this tab.
@@theinternetelectrician Ok thanks. I will do it that way. Don't want to press you too much, but could you elaborate as to why the neutral is combined even though they are seperate circuits? Thanks!
Thanks. I shared this video with my sister and her husband to help them understand how their kitchen was wired and why the 2 pole 20 amp GFCI breaker wouldn't reset after he changed out a countertop outlet that was worn and the plugs seemed loose and fell out easily. Their home was built 1995 and the kitchen was wired with one 12/3 w/ground NM cable to power the 20 amp kitchen small appliance circuits. I'm guessing that when the house was built it was cheaper in terms of labor and materials to pull one 12/3 on a two pole GFCI instead of two 12/2 cables on two single pole AFCI/GFCI breakers like we are required to in modern times.
Thanks for explaining the split wire receptacle. If I wanted to add a 2nd receptacle, do I need to pigtail the red & pigtail the black & pigtail the white to allow for a 2nd line to the new receptacle?
Yes. Some will cheat and use the push-in and the screw terminals to do this, but do as you suggest. The code of the day allowed 2 receptacles on each 2-pole, 15A circuit. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
Glad to help out! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Some living room outlets are wired for the top outlet to be controlled by a wall switch and the bottom one to be hot all the time. This setup also requires that tab to be removed.
correcto! And when someone replaces one of those and forgets to split the tab, then suddenly the switch no longer works to control the 1/2 outlet, and all the receptacles are hot all the time! And ask any residential electrician if they've had a trouble call to a home because half the outlets in the living room don't work. Walk in, flip a switch, hand them a minimum call-out invoice, and walk away!
@@JulianneWeinmann -- th-cam.com/video/l1EHYfD_nww/w-d-xo.html Check this video out. Also, unlike his application, you normally only remove the tab on the Hot side and not the neutral side.
@@victormendoza6306 With this circuit you have 2 hot wires sharing a neutral, and that gives you 2 full circuits on one duplex receptacle. Does that help?
Nice idea for shop outlets. I'm installing a new one and this will come in handy (the circuit will start as a split 120V 20A duplex 5-20R receptacle with the option to change to 220V 6-20R down the road and no need to change the wiring or breaker). I always wondered about how much current the single neutral carried for those two hots. Technically, this is considered a single circuit and not a dual.
Can I wire a multiwire branch circuit to 2 separate GFCI's using the same neutral. I have a kitchen that did not originally require GFCI's, but my receptacles are one separate 20 amp circuit breakers? I have already tried it and it seems to be working, but my concern is will it eventually, possibly give me problems in the future? It also raises the question, what if the incoming power shows 120 volts only not 240? Will that stress the neutral. The circuit breakers are not duplex, they are individual. I have wired it up, and the GFCI's are not tripping. I'm confused. Could this possibly cause my neutral to carry too much of a load?
With what you are describing, the breakers are coming from the same hot leg of the panel, and your concerns are quite valid. Your shared neutral is carrying the compounded load of both circuits instead of the unbalanced load. So depending on how this is wired, it may be possible to make it work but you would need to juggle your breakers and put in a 2-pole breaker to safely feed this circuit. That ensures that you aren't compounding the neutral current. To have the shared neutral situation work now, you cannot have any feed-through the GFCI's The neutral would have to be pig-tailed and connected to the 'line' side terminals, and the hot wire from each breaker pole to the 'line' terminals only of each of the GFCI receptacles.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you for your immediate response. From what I have learned so far, what you said is %100 in line with what I have watched on multiple channels. It confirms the circuit I currently have. I will make the necessary changes as needed, 2 seperate 120v circuit, on a set of breakers that are tied together. Mine are currently spaced apart from each other, they do however produce 240V when measured, that is a good thing at least. Thank you again for your time, and posting the videos, they're are much appreciated, I learned a ton in a very short time.
@@ronnor58h One caveat on the 2-pole breaker. The old FPE stab-lok wafer breakers are the only brand that will allow them to be plugged into the same hot leg of the panel. You need to put them in so that the straddle the barrier. So see if that applies to your situation. Also the reason for the 2-pole breaker is safety. It ensures that both hots are de-energized when working on the circuit.
@@theinternetelectrician great point, thank you. I just checked the old system out, and both 110v did not give me 240V. I switched them to achieve my 240v, and it brought my amp draw from 20+ to 3 on the neutral. I was thrilled. Thank you for your awesome content it saved my bacon! Definitely liked and subbed! Have an awesome day!
Terry, If i were replacing a outlet wired just as you've shown us in your video with a new USB type recepticle which only has one stake for a hot wire would I just leave one wire not connected?? I certainly do not want both hooked in as that would be 240!
eherring77 Ya so I determined that in lots of kitchens they run 2 hot wires to one outlet(one per plug in). This is so you can use typically heavy drawing appliances in each outlet, with that in mind if you cap off one of the hots the outlet will only draw off one circuit. You can also confirm which configuration you have depending on weather the bridge is still on. Cheers
@@bonaminhrasmey42 In the wiring method described here, you have 2 separate 15A, 120V circuits so unless an appliance (s) draws more than the rated current current, you can use that kettle. I hope that answers your question?
That tab has caused many a good men problems throughout the years, self included! When I've forgot, I usually remember the instant the breaker kicks back! Thanks for watching! And thanks for taking the time to comment!
I bought GFCI plugs for the kitchen before realizing it has split receptacles. Would it be against code now if I just replace new plugs in the kitchen and split them or do I have to eliminate the red wire and wire in the GFCI's? I am in Canada so depending on where you are you may not know the code. Thanks.
Just replace with new receptacles. You aren't changing anything and the code is grandfathered so all good! Don't forget to split that tab! Oh, and the price of the new receptacles just dropped from $25 to $2! (estimated)
Yes, That is quite common as to meet the code of the day for a kitchen, you could have 2 split receptacles on one 2-pole 15A breaker. To do this you should pig-tail the conductors for the connection to the receptacle at the first outlet although some will "cheat" and use the push-in terminals and the screw terminals.
love the video! i do have a question, i removed a light in my garage and i place a 15 amp outlet thinking that my light switch would work, to turn off and on my two shop lights however when i remove the light fixture it had 7 wires 2 black 2 whites 2 grounds and 1 red wire. so test the line, one of the blacks was hot. i connect 1 back 1 white and ground to the outlet all work find , however light switch didn't turn on or off the lights also looks like the other 4 wires that i did not use are connected to my kitchen so had no lights there. grr. could you please give me any ideas how to make this work...
The red wire is the switched conductor. It should be connected to any lights that you want to control with the switch, along with a neutral. The splices should be all the grounds together (and pig-tails to the outlet box and receptacle green terminal), all the whites together with a pig-tail to the silver terminal (s) of the receptacle (I assume to plug shop lights into?), the red wire to the brass terminal (s) of the receptacle, and the black wires spliced together to restore power to your kitchen.
Just curious, is it fine if neutral goes to either of the silver terminal 3:51? I notice my kitchen one has neutral attached to the silver terminal close to the ground.
No, it doesn't matter. those 2 terminals are connected by a breakable tab just like there is on the hot terminal side, but with the tab intact, they are electrically joined.
Thanks. I have a follow up question or suggestion. Maybe you can also post the receptacle you use and see they can pay you the advertisement. I like this video. My kitchen receptacle under the sink stops working. I consider to replace one. I am curious if any receptacle will work, or just the one you use. I also have 3 wires but not 4 wires.
@@KaiWang-f4m Thanks for the suggestion. Paid promotions or reviews are usually agreed upon and paid in advance. I get approached by many products looking for both paid and reviews in exchange for the products. To answer your question, if the receptacle you are referring to is under the sink, it is likely that one half is hot all the time (to plug in a built-in dishwasher) and the other is on a switch (for a kitchen garbage disposal or garbuerator (Canadian term). Check if you have a switch above the countertop and near the sink that if you turn on, the receptacle then works!
I have a split receptacle within 3 feet of the kitchen sink, so need to replace with a GFCI. I know to split a regular receptacle by breaking the tab on the hot side, but how do I split top from bottom outlets on a GFCI? It is the only outlet in both circuits, so no ‘line’ requirement.
My advice, why change it to a GFCI? It's complicated because the shared neutral can mess you up, and you don't need to go with GFCI as your installation is grandfathered to the code rules of the day. I personally like the splits better. But in answer to the question, you can't split a GFCI receptacle.
Terry, the wire I’m dealing with has to be the thinnest, finest ever. It’s for my wall Mount garage opener. It’s black/green (previously hooked up to the red screw) then yellow/red (was on screw labeled white). Of course I go to put up new Chamberlain wall opener, wires too short. I have no idea what I’m doing. The had both wires combined on red side under the screw, and both under white screw touching. I bought push-in connectors to extend all four but wondering if a better way
Thank you just solved a problem. My daughter husband replaced old kitchen plugs with newer ones. There was no power to one of the split plugs. I noticed a red wire and black wire on the gold screws and a white wire on the silver screw. The breaker wont reset because he didn't remove the tab between the 2 gold screws. He said he wired it the exact same way as the previous plug but didn't break the tab. Does it make sense that the breaker wont reset because its 220 instead of 110 because the tab has not being removed.
@@theinternetelectrician Just removed the tab on the gold screws and the breaker reset. The breaker panel was the exact panel in your video, Don't know why the had neutral wire marred and 2 jumper wires going to both silver screws, the tab was still intact on the silver screw terminal.
@@JimMcLaren1950 Yeah, that is weird they pig-tailed the neutral, and to both terminals with the tab intact. Clearly did not understand what they were doing. Glad you have it all worked out!
Thanks, This is great for New Work how about existing Old work - Do I have to snake a 12-3 wire to the outlet in order for one plug to always be Hot and the other controlled by a Switch..
I'd need more detail here Frank. Not sure what you're asking, but if you just leave the existing 3-wire kitchen circuit as it is, no need to change as code rules are grandfathered to the day the work was done.
@@theinternetelectrician Hi and thank you: Some Dummy used the dedicated garbage disposal switch to an outlet to also connect the dishwasher to the same outlet under the sink. Everyone thought the dishwasher didn't work but when I ran the garbage disposal the dishwasher powered on and was running.... Too late I already ordered a new dishwasher and am using an extension cord to a live outlet when I want to run it.... The switch for the garbage disposal box also has a switch to an overhead light and an outlet in the same box. HELP!
I have the exact same question. I've got on these split circuits in the kitchen and would like to replace it with GFCI. What should the wiring be. presumably the black/white goes to the line. Where does the red wire go to - presumably the load - but on the white/black side?
Someone had to show me that too! Can't remember who, but it's good to know! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Don't forget to break the tab! I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
@@theinternetelectrician thanks ! I broke the tab and used a pig tail to go all around the others. I subscribed and hit the bell too :) have a good one !
This is great. Explains what I did wrong. Thank you. Have a question though. One of the split recepticals I am replacing, I want to use an outlet that also has usb plugs. It doesn't have terminals, just three wires (ground, hot, neutral) so there is nothing to split. Any suggestion one what I should do?
You would have to cap off and not use one of the hot wires in this case. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
This has been around for 40 Years, electrical code required this in all kitchens, unfortunately elecrticians did not wire the receptacles corectly. this video should have been shown to them in the 70's. Good job.
To meet the new code it would require re-wiring the kitchen with #12 wire and 20A circuits. To add GFCI protection to your existing is complicated by the shared neutrals and you'd have to have an electrician look at your particular installation to advise on how best to go about that. My advise would be to leave it as is. It is grandfathered as it was the code of the day, and unless you feel that you really would like the added protection that GFCI provides?
Thank u so much! U saved me from constantly tripping the breaker and spark fire the house down! On a more serious note, may i ask if its possible to add another receptacle from this set up on the same circuit of course. Basically, we need to add a receptacle in an area where the close by receptacle is a split receptacle... Can i do pigtails to create extra set of new wires from the original split receptacle circuit before it enters into the original split receptacle. Then connect to the 2 (old and new)split receptacles? Or is there a simple way to go about this since the new receptacle doesn't have to be a split receptacle. It could be a regular receptacle since very little power will be drawn from it. Maybe 30 watts at most. Thank you so much in advance for ur answer ☺️
The code rule (to ensure you have lots of circuit capacity in the kitchen) was to have no more than 2 split receptacles on one 2-pole circuit, and to alternate them so adjacent receptacles aren't on the same circuit. Having said that, there would be no concerns adding to these normally under-utilized circuits. You could make the additional one a split, or just pick one of the 2 hots to feed the duplex receptacle that you add. Just do it safely and correctly and you should be fine!
Thank you so much for ur quick answer. May i ask if u have a video showing how to convert a split receptacle with (red,black and white wires) to a regular receptacle without pulling a new line? And using the extra hot wire to make an additional outlet? Thank you so very much 🥰
Thank You Terry. You saved me at least a $100 for replacing a kitchen outlet. I replaced the outlet with no problem at all, it was easy enough, but the breaker kept tripping. I did NOT realize the two outlets are actually connected with a flat metal clip. After I watched your video, I broke the connection between the upper and lower outlet, now both outlets work like a charm. I have liked your video, and also subscribed. Thank you very much. Tom
Thank you so much! Comments like these make it so worth the effort! Happy New Year to you and yours!
What you break one side what about other side?
IBEW Local 11 Los Angeles chapter here. Great video, fellow sparky!
Thank-you so much for taking the time to comment! And it's nice to get accolades from such a credible source as the IBEW!
Thank you so much. We live in a house built in the 70’s and we had no idea we were dealing with an old-school split receptacle. We looked everywhere to find a video with ‘red wire’ - then we found you.
Thanks again 😊
It's not that rare! At least in Canada that is! I'm still a fan of them myself, but I'm "old school" :-) Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment. I hope that you 'like' it, and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the bell?
Terry explained this so simply, and saved me the frustration when I saw red, black and white wires on a damaged receptacle. I also now know what the little hole on my wire stripper is for. I used to use my stripper, then my needle nose plier for the hook.
Happy to help out! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Thank you so much for this excellent video. I recently replaced all the outlets in my house and couldn’t understand why the kitchen ones would trip immediately. I can’t thank you enough for the clear and concise explanation!
Happy to help out, and thanks for watching and for taking the time to comment! Appreciated.
Thank you Terry, this was helpful and it really saved up $150+ cost of calling electrician.
Amazing and clear explanation.
Thanks a lot!
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment!
Thank you, Terry,
You saved the day for me. I had two blacks, two whites, one red and ground. I used your method worked like a charm.
Hello! I have the same. Did you connect both of your white on the left side?
Not an electrician, but I've played one on TV. But! seriously... thank you for this demonstration of The Olde Wayes of doing things. It remains! a useful bit o' information to have stored on a shelf in the ol' cranial warehouse. I did have to laugh for a second when we witness your unsafe pliers handling. Yes, you know and I know you had the breaker switched off, but... Kids, don't try that at home! This man's a professional, and all that. Cheers.
Thanks for watching! I had to watch it here myself to see what was you reference to unsafe plier handling? I assume using it as a pointer? Or did it appear that my hand was on the metal and not the insulated handles? Anyhow, regardless of that, with the power off as it should be, not a problem there that I saw! Incidentally, I am an electrician, and I have also been on network TV!
@@theinternetelectrician You're a good sport! my good man. At one point it appears as if you almost jamb the needlenose pliers' tips into the hot and neutral slots. lmao. "Unsafe pliers handling" - that's a riff on, you know... stuff we dare not speak of in this Utopia of ours. Cheers. Best to you!
HUGE THANKS! saved me tons of money. My breaker kept tripping. That tiny little bit of copper tab hint was priceless! It should tell you that on the package
Happy to have helped! That's what I'm here for!
Thanks Terry. Our kitchen microwave receptacle and one additional receptacle were on a 2 pole 15a circuit. When I went to update the plugs, I was scratching my head why they used 14/3 instead of 14/2, and why the breaker kept tripping. Mystery solved!!! You've got a new subscriber!
Happy to help out! My goal here on this channel is to help you do it right, do it safely, and save you money!
Can’t thank you enough for the precise and practical instructions. This was exactly what I needed to replace my dishwasher/garbage disposal outlet. SO grateful for your expertise!
Great to hear!
Thanks, Terry. After watching your video, it became clear to me for the first time after so long time of not understanding how a 3-wire split receptacle circuit works. I'll look at your other videos for more knowledge on home electrical wiring.
Thanks for the kind words Egor. Please like and subscribe as I’m releasing a 6-part series of videos soon on the subject of helping out the DIY’er, and I’m working on a new course that will launch in August called “weekend wiring warrior”. Stay tuned!
OMG thank you so much! after replacing all my outlets in the kitchen and blowing the main power several times I am so glad you made this video! Excellent sharing of knowledge!
Terry, you've solved my problem with my son's condo ... thank you so much. Why this video did not ranked higher behoves me ... it was the only video (out of 20) to provide a solution ... keep up the great work.
Thank you - this was very useful and easy to follow. Clear concise instructions with steady camera work. Good job! Thank you again!
Thanks for the comment Charlie! Usually only the critics take the time to share their opinion! I appreciate it!
All that I needed was how to remove the tab between the terminals on the receptacle at 4:45. Thanks for the good explanation.
Thank you for explaining what an "unbalanced" load is. Much appreciated.
Happy to help out Peter! Thanks for watching, commenting, and I hope you 'liked', subscribed, and clicked the notification bell?
Thank you! I hooked up an outlet and the lights would not turn off. The bridge snap worked and your explanation was great.
After spending so much time trying figure out why my breaker was blowing.Thank you VERY much for your tutorial.Helped me big time.It was the tab! Imagine that.Great help.
Barry Andrews, happy to help out!
Had no idea there was a tab.. Blew my mind. Thought I miswired the outlet
Thank you so much!! This was exactly the step I did not know I needed to do! I replaced an old receptacle and it kept shorting under load. Thank you again
same
Thank you! You saved me an electrician visit. I was struggling with the outlet for hours
AH! Thanks, I forgot to remove the tab to split it. Thanks!
I thought the breaker needed replacing, and I do not touch the breaker box stuff, so this saved me a service call and probably a couple hundred bucks. Thanks again sir!
This was incredibly helpful, saved me a lot of frustration and a call to an electrician. I never would have figured this out on my own.
Thanks Benjamin!
Absolutely clear easy to follow explanation. Sure appreciate how you covered All aspects of Installation and function. Removing the tab was the part I was missing
Thanks for watching! Happy to help out!
Buddy you just saved my day I thought I did everything right and sure enough the breaker popped I had no idea about the tabs ,very helpful video thank you🍻
Happy to help out! I hope that you gave it a 'like', and that you subscribed to my channel? That your be much appreciated!
Great presentation! How do you use this method for multiple outlets, just use pigtails?
Hi Mark. Yes, pigtailing is the way to go. Even though you have only 2 white wires and those terminals look tempting, I've had an inspector flag that and make me do pigtails even on the neutrals. The blacks and reds obviously need to be pig-tailed as there is only one terminal each for them to go on. Unless you use the terminal screw and the quick connects, but I never recommend using the push-in connections. So short answer, you are correct. Pigtails it is!
I can tell by that ring that ring that this man is a wizard... worked magic on my issue anyway that's for sure !
I assume you are referring to the ruby? That was my adopted Grandfather's, and then passed on to my Father, and on to me after my Dad passed away in 2016. Hasn't left my finger since then. Happy to have helped you out! Thanks for watching!
Just the video I was looking for! From watching to doing and completing the job in 10 minutes! You rock!
So, as you mentioned, I made this exact mistake. I now understand exactly how the circuit works. Unfortunately for me, my breaker was defective and didn’t pop and the main to the apartment triggered. Needed an electrician to come re reset it. Good lesson. A mistake I will never make again.
All breakers are designed to trip on a short circuit condition, no matter if the branch circuit breaker is a 15A or 100A or 200A main. The main breaker was just quicker on the draw! The older FPE stab-lok breakers were notorious for not tripping when they should. I once accidentally cut through a live 14/2 cable on a 15A breaker, and the arcing and sparking that occurred behind the truss (where I couldn't see it) took a big bite out of my reciprocating saw blade and cut the cable right through, yet the breaker didn't trip! Thanks for watching!
This video just explained everything I needed to know. Could not figure out why my kitchen outlet was connected to a two pole 15 amp breaker. Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video! This is exactly what I have in my older kitchen (no GFI) and this is exactly what happened to me! I was unaware I needed to break the tab, wired up a new outlet, turned on the bridge circuit and tripped my entire power panel. I put the old receptacles back and was going to leave well enough alone, but now I feel confident about trying it again.
Same for me. The explanation and walkthrough is great.
Very clear installation., but what happens in the white neutral white line when both receptacles are used at 15 amps each which then equals 30 amps for the single neutral line, when each line is only rated at 15 amps?
That explanation is in the video, but here it is. The neutral in this correctly connected circuit (a properly installed 2-pole breaker) ensures that the neutral only carries the unbalanced load. So if there is 10A being drawn on one half of an outlet, and 8A on the other, then the neutral only has 2A on it. So the maximum is whatever one half may draw, even with nothing on the other. With AC power, and the sine wave structure of current / voltage, when one leg of the power is on the top side of the curve, the other leg is 180 degrees opposite. Thus 240V between them, but each referenced to neutral is 120V each
@@theinternetelectrician Hi Terry. Thank you for your written reply. Getting old I always do better reading instructions rather than listening to them. Much appreciated!
@@heliandme My wife says I don't listen to, read, or follow instructions very well!
Nice informative video. Thank you for not feeling the need to play annoying music like most others have.
Thank you so much! I also was caught by that little tab between two hot hires. This video saved me $200-300 electrician service call. Thanks again!
Very helpful! We put in a new kitchen but not new wiring and when I got to hooking up my last receptacle I was like why is there 4 wires in here? LOL
This has confused many people, and has been the subject of many questions I've answered over the years! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much terry I can’t believe how much anxiety u saved me I am a new apprentice and was changing my house kitchen receptacle and wasn’t aware of this when I went to turn it on I tripped the breaker and the main breaker after work I’m going to go and fix this. 🎉🎉🎉
Update it worked it didn’t trip
Would it still be possible to piggyback a new outlet off of the constant or would the new outlet be controlled by the switch too?
You're referring to a switched receptacle here? And yes, if you pig-tail off the constant hot and the neutral, what you are asking is possible. And you could come off of either hot in a kitchen split receptacle arrangement, but then you are not compliant with code due to the number of split kitchen receptacles allowed on one 2-15A circuit is that makes more than 2.
@@theinternetelectrician it’s in a bedroom. Just trying to add a receptacle behind a wall mounted tv, but the outlet is a half-hot and I wasn’t quite sure how to do it
@@bpatriquin123 Then yes, for sure you can do this. Same stud space makes it even easier!
@@theinternetelectrician That’s what I’m thinking! Just adding the new one like 4 or 5 feet above the existing outlet. I just don’t wanna end up with a TV that I can only watch when the light is turned on 😂
Thank you for the Video. Any advice on how to change the split rec. to a GFI?
Best advice would be to leave it as is. Personally I like the split kitchen receptacle method, and no need (code wise) to change it as it's grandfathered in to the code of the day. But if you would feel better with GFCI protection, I would change the supply breaker to a 2P 15A GFCI breaker and then leave the splits as they are.
Thankkkk youuuu sooo muchhhh. My husband was doing that mistake and thx to this video i found we could solved the problem. Amazing thanks a lot
Thanks Terry. I shorted out a plug in my kitchen and ran into this problem when I replaced it. Could not figure out why the breaker wouldn’t go back on. I disagree that it’s a good wiring style. I feel like it’s one of those little bombs that tradespeople use to obfuscate their, for the most part, simple and mundane work. In an attempt to keep the normals away from DIY. Sure appreciate people such as yourself making information freely available.
Once you understand though, it is a good system in my humble opinion. You have 2 full, 15A circuits in one outlet split top and bottom. Another over-looked benefit of this type of an outlet, is if you should move to North America from the European grid and bring some of your 220V appliances, change the receptacle to the 15A/250V, and put on the proper plug on the appliance, all set!
@@theinternetelectrician hi Terry can I use 20,30 or 40 amps too
I agree its good idea the wiring but people they don’t know its a puzzle like me when i change mine the orange and yellow wire ire connected to the gold but here you sir you told us to cut the small thing si that it come out only 120v coz if they together it will be 240v… anyway thank you so much for your video 😂
A way to save money
Microwave in one, kettle (or toaster) in the other, without tripping the breaker
You saved my sanity with this video!! Keep up the good work!
Another sanity saved up in Montreal
Thanks for this video! I learned something new by watching it. Didn’t know I had to cut the metal between the red and black wire to make two separate circuits. I changed a plug that the top plug was controlled by a switch and when it stayed hot I looked for your video and solved the problem.
If I have this running in my kitchen for the outlets, red white and black wire, can I put a GFCI in? And what would that look like in terms of the wiring?
It's not that easy, because these circuits share a neutral. This makes things more complicated, and you actually lose by doing so. Right now you have 2 circuits at 15A each. To go to GFCI outlets, you have to use just one of the hot wires, and you can't size up the breaker size to 20A because you have #14 wire. So basically you are cutting your supply to kitchen appliances in half. I would ask why? I get this question a lot so you're not alone. I will do a video on this subject, so thanks for the trigger! GFCI is great protection if you plan on touching the prongs of an appliance plug while soaking wet, in your bare feet, on a tile or concrete floor, but otherwise I'd just stay with the 3-wire split circuits you have. Others may disagree with me vehemently, but this is just my opinion. Thanks for watching, commenting, and I hope that you have "liked" and subscribed to my channel? I'm on a push for the 100K sub milestone. Not sure why that's important, but I think TH-cam sends me a plaque to hang on the wall!
@@theinternetelectrician awesome thank you very much for the reply. The reason why is just for safety for the 1.5 m distance from the sink. I was just putting them in as per code in Canada here. I did some research as well previous to your reply, and found out that I could add a GFI breaker to the panel. How to do that? I guess I will have to figure that out. But I really appreciate you replying. And looking forward to the next video and congratulations on the road to 100 K.
@@TheFlowshizle you are correct. I am also Canadian, my training in Alberta Canada. The new code requires the GFCI protection, but any installation prior to new and revised codes are grandfathered in and aren't required to be changed to adhere to the current ones unless you do a remodel or alter the electrical system. If you are concerned about safety then yes, the 15A 2-pole GFCI breaker(s) is another way to go that I neglected to mention and is by far the best option if you want to have that extra protection on those outlets. Thanks for the reminder of that!
@@theinternetelectrician thank you sir
Nice video. I've used plastic boxes before, but never saw one with that metal strip in the back. Interesting design.
Yeah, there are so many different types of boxes out there! In my day,.... (walking uphill to school in 6 ft of snow, etc) We only had about 2 or 3 different styles of metal boxes. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
Thanks for sharing it. I was able to finish replacing the receptacles in my kitchen with your explanation. 😊
Thank you sir, you just solved my problem. Very clear and simple explanation, so easy to understand.
Once again thank you very much
You are most welcome
How do you wire this if you are continuing on to another receptacle? Also, we have a stablok panel, does it matter where the double breaker is located on the busbar to get the different phases?
Great comment! You have to pig-tail your conductors to continue the circuit to another outlet, and yes, good ol' FPE Sta-blok. The only panel that will enable the installation of a 2-pole wafer breaker on the same hot buss. So yes, you must ensure that it is installed across the barrier, otherwise the neutral current compounds instead of cancels out. Thanks for watching! I hope you have subscribed? And gave the video a 'like'!
Thank you very much.. That is an awesome video, clearly explain the problem i ran into, that little tab that needed to be broken. Terry, you just saved me lots of money and frustration. Thanks again.
That's what I'm here for! Thanks for watching!
Hi Terry, My Kitchen is wired that way ... but with all the new outlets that have USB connection for charging device, I would like too had one of those outlet, do I just condemn the red wire with a marrette and hook up my outlet with the black and white like usual ? Thanks
Yeah, that would work. However I've found those combination outlets to be way too expensive for the value added. Consider getting a plug in unit that has multiple outlets along with usb ports. Not as aesthetically pleasing, but usually have more ports, etc. Just make sure the one you use in the split receptacles has just one actual 'plug' that taps into the receiving outlet. I'm not sure if they make one that grabs both halves of the receptacle, but if they do, and aren't split inside the combo device you'd have a short circuit condition that would trip the breaker (at best) and likely destroy the device.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank’s for the response … very nice !
thank you very much for the useful video. can I change this split outlet from 120 volt to 240 volt? I have a European made device that requires 240 volt line that i like to use. I was told that it is possible by using a dual volt outlet? please advice and if possible how to wire the new outlet..thank you in advance
Yes, absolutely! You just need to use the correct receptacle, and the matching cord cap on the appliances. 15A/240V and connect red,black, and ground. Just cap off the white wire. That’s another bonus with these split receptacle method of kitchen wiring.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you so much for your kind and prompt reply. I thought I had s split outlet in my kitchen but i dont. What is have is that there are two outlet about 3 feet apart from each other and these outlets are out of phase. When I connect one lead of my volt meter to one outlet and the other lead to the second outlet I read 240 volt. Can I run wire from these outlets to a new outlet to provide me with 240 volt? I was thinking to take.two new wires connect each wire to the existing outlets so that I have two black wire along with my ground coming from the outlets into my new outlet and leave the neutral wire disconnect In the new outlet. This configuration will give me a 240 volt outlet that I can use. It is possible? And if it is then if I am using the 240 outlet can I use the existing outlet that I borrowed the power from at the same time? Hopefully my explanation is clear enough and make sense to you...thank you
@@saboorsaboor704 No, you can't do it this way. However there is a way to safely do this. You need to show me where your outlets in the kitchen are, what breakers controls them, and where you would like to place your 240V appliance(s). Draw me a rough sketch and then just take a photo of it and send to terry@electrical-online.com I will explain what can be done, and if it's out of your comfort level, you can hire it done, an easy and quick job for a good electrical contractor. There should be no more than 2 outlets on one circuit. If there is an odd number of receptacles, then one would be on a circuit by itself. That one will be the best candidate for the conversion. If not, then you will have to have 2 of your existing outlets changed over to 240V
damn this is close to what i'm looking for what if you want to wire a 12/3 from 20amp double pole breaker to power two areas i recently got a deck and by the door i want a sconce an outdoor outlet and indoor outlet on one side of the patio doors and then wire an outlet on the opposite side for a beverage fridge. What would that look like?
Run the 12/3 to the first outlet (receptacle), and use a deep box there. Run a 2-wire to the other receptacle, then to switch, then to the sconce light. From the first box, also run a 2-wire over to the beverage fridge (saving at least 12 beer for me). Connect the convenience outlets to the black hot wire and shared neutral. Connect the red wire and shared neutral to the 2-wire going over to the fridge.
On mine I have two cables (must be the first receptacle - what's the right proper name for that situation where it splits off to continue the circuit?) one has the red/ black/neutral/gr and one just the black/neutral/gr. There will also be two neutrals: Now do I also break the tabs for the neutrals? And How do I connect that extra black that continues on with the circuit: pig tail? What is the proper name for that situation?
Great to the point video- just not my exact situation- Thanks
Is this a kitchen receptacle? Sounds to me like a switched receptacle in a family room, living room, or bedroom?
@@theinternetelectrician KItchen. The red has power too- traced it to the box, right beside the black wire breaker. Thanks
@@johngaspar4425 OK, The neutrals can go on the terminals of the receptacle and DO NOT split that tab. (or you could splice them together with a pig-tail), and yes, on the hot side put red on one terminal, splice the black wires and pig-tail to the other terminal. DO split this tab.
@@theinternetelectrician Ok thanks. I will do it that way. Don't want to press you too much, but could you elaborate as to why the neutral is combined even though they are seperate circuits? Thanks!
@@johngaspar4425 Go watch the video again, and at about the 5:30 mark I start to explain the theory behind the 3-wire circuit and the unbalanced load.
Thanks. I shared this video with my sister and her husband to help them understand how their kitchen was wired and why the 2 pole 20 amp GFCI breaker wouldn't reset after he changed out a countertop outlet that was worn and the plugs seemed loose and fell out easily. Their home was built 1995 and the kitchen was wired with one 12/3 w/ground NM cable to power the 20 amp kitchen small appliance circuits. I'm guessing that when the house was built it was cheaper in terms of labor and materials to pull one 12/3 on a two pole GFCI instead of two 12/2 cables on two single pole AFCI/GFCI breakers like we are required to in modern times.
Thanks for explaining the split wire receptacle. If I wanted to add a 2nd receptacle, do I need to pigtail the red & pigtail the black & pigtail the white to allow for a 2nd line to the new receptacle?
Yes. Some will cheat and use the push-in and the screw terminals to do this, but do as you suggest. The code of the day allowed 2 receptacles on each 2-pole, 15A circuit. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
No fluff, right to the point!!!! Many many thanks
Thanks!
That friggin split thing... man you’re a lifesaver 😂
Glad to help out! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Some living room outlets are wired for the top outlet to be controlled by a wall switch and the bottom one to be hot all the time. This setup also requires that tab to be removed.
correcto! And when someone replaces one of those and forgets to split the tab, then suddenly the switch no longer works to control the 1/2 outlet, and all the receptacles are hot all the time! And ask any residential electrician if they've had a trouble call to a home because half the outlets in the living room don't work. Walk in, flip a switch, hand them a minimum call-out invoice, and walk away!
I can't remove the tab. There is metal under the tab that keeps the two connected! Impossible to separate! I don't get it.
@@JulianneWeinmann -- th-cam.com/video/l1EHYfD_nww/w-d-xo.html
Check this video out. Also, unlike his application, you normally only remove the tab on the Hot side and not the neutral side.
Wow! You have solved my problem. I didn't know why the breaker keeps tripping. That piece needed to be broken. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. It is a good example of 3 wires Edison circuit right there.
Yes it is! Thanks for watching!
Thanks Terry. Very helpful and your guidance is greatly appreciated.
Thanks for watching!
Good video I have a question, why have to be two wires in one outlet?
I'm not sure I understand the question? Could you please elaborate?
@@theinternetelectrician Two prong outlet should carries 2 hot wires? Why?
@@victormendoza6306 With this circuit you have 2 hot wires sharing a neutral, and that gives you 2 full circuits on one duplex receptacle. Does that help?
@@theinternetelectrician yes thank you very much
Thank you. I was having an issue while changing the outlet. All thanks to you, I was able to resolve it.
Nice idea for shop outlets. I'm installing a new one and this will come in handy (the circuit will start as a split 120V 20A duplex 5-20R receptacle with the option to change to 220V 6-20R down the road and no need to change the wiring or breaker). I always wondered about how much current the single neutral carried for those two hots. Technically, this is considered a single circuit and not a dual.
In a kitchen you could make an adapter for European countertop appliances it would just take up both receptacles.
Can I wire a multiwire branch circuit to 2 separate GFCI's using the same neutral. I have a kitchen that did not originally require GFCI's, but my receptacles are one separate 20 amp circuit breakers? I have already tried it and it seems to be working, but my concern is will it eventually, possibly give me problems in the future? It also raises the question, what if the incoming power shows 120 volts only not 240? Will that stress the neutral. The circuit breakers are not duplex, they are individual. I have wired it up, and the GFCI's are not tripping. I'm confused. Could this possibly cause my neutral to carry too much of a load?
With what you are describing, the breakers are coming from the same hot leg of the panel, and your concerns are quite valid. Your shared neutral is carrying the compounded load of both circuits instead of the unbalanced load. So depending on how this is wired, it may be possible to make it work but you would need to juggle your breakers and put in a 2-pole breaker to safely feed this circuit. That ensures that you aren't compounding the neutral current. To have the shared neutral situation work now, you cannot have any feed-through the GFCI's The neutral would have to be pig-tailed and connected to the 'line' side terminals, and the hot wire from each breaker pole to the 'line' terminals only of each of the GFCI receptacles.
@@theinternetelectrician Thank you for your immediate response. From what I have learned so far, what you said is %100 in line with what I have watched on multiple channels. It confirms the circuit I currently have. I will make the necessary changes as needed, 2 seperate 120v circuit, on a set of breakers that are tied together. Mine are currently spaced apart from each other, they do however produce 240V when measured, that is a good thing at least. Thank you again for your time, and posting the videos, they're are much appreciated, I learned a ton in a very short time.
@@ronnor58h One caveat on the 2-pole breaker. The old FPE stab-lok wafer breakers are the only brand that will allow them to be plugged into the same hot leg of the panel. You need to put them in so that the straddle the barrier. So see if that applies to your situation. Also the reason for the 2-pole breaker is safety. It ensures that both hots are de-energized when working on the circuit.
@@theinternetelectrician great point, thank you. I just checked the old system out, and both 110v did not give me 240V. I switched them to achieve my 240v, and it brought my amp draw from 20+ to 3 on the neutral. I was thrilled. Thank you for your awesome content it saved my bacon! Definitely liked and subbed! Have an awesome day!
Quite brilliant. Terry, you're an excellent teacher. I enjoy your course. Thanks
Thanks Winston. Much appreciated!
great video and explanation. I forgot to break the tab, once it was broken everything works properly. thanks very useful
Brilliant! Thanks so much as I never would have thought to break the tab. Thanks so much!
Terry, If i were replacing a outlet wired just as you've shown us in your video with a new USB type recepticle which only has one stake for a hot wire would I just leave one wire not connected?? I certainly do not want both hooked in as that would be 240!
So I am doing this right now. Did you find out?
eherring77
Ya so I determined that in lots of kitchens they run 2 hot wires to one outlet(one per plug in). This is so you can use typically heavy drawing appliances in each outlet, with that in mind if you cap off one of the hots the outlet will only draw off one circuit. You can also confirm which configuration you have depending on weather the bridge is still on.
Cheers
@@chases1083 thanks. Now hopefully the box is deep enough.
On separate plug 120v can you still use kettle on 120v??😊
I'm not sure that I understand the question. Can you elaborate please?
@theinternetelectrician at 120v separated circuit can still be used kettle without tripping the MCB ???
@@bonaminhrasmey42 In the wiring method described here, you have 2 separate 15A, 120V circuits so unless an appliance (s) draws more than the rated current current, you can use that kettle. I hope that answers your question?
Thank you! Got everything myself, just didn't know I had to break the tab off.
That tab has caused many a good men problems throughout the years, self included! When I've forgot, I usually remember the instant the breaker kicks back! Thanks for watching! And thanks for taking the time to comment!
Thank you for the reminder to split the tab, saved me an electrician call out.
I bought GFCI plugs for the kitchen before realizing it has split receptacles. Would it be against code now if I just replace new plugs in the kitchen and split them or do I have to eliminate the red wire and wire in the GFCI's? I am in Canada so depending on where you are you may not know the code. Thanks.
Just replace with new receptacles. You aren't changing anything and the code is grandfathered so all good! Don't forget to split that tab! Oh, and the price of the new receptacles just dropped from $25 to $2! (estimated)
So glad I watched this before I swapped out an old outlet in my kitchen. Spot on! Thanks!
So glad I came across your video! Saved me from having to call an electrician 👌🏻
Do i have to remove tab both sides of the out let or only one side
Just on the hot side, but probably a good idea to watch the video again to gain a good understanding of this type of circuit.
Very informative. Is there a way to add a second outlet where each are split and sharing the neutral?
Yes, That is quite common as to meet the code of the day for a kitchen, you could have 2 split receptacles on one 2-pole 15A breaker. To do this you should pig-tail the conductors for the connection to the receptacle at the first outlet although some will "cheat" and use the push-in terminals and the screw terminals.
love the video! i do have a question, i removed a light in my garage and i place a 15 amp outlet thinking that my light switch would work, to turn off and on my two shop lights however when i remove the light fixture it had 7 wires 2 black 2 whites 2 grounds and 1 red wire. so test the line, one of the blacks was hot. i connect 1 back 1 white and ground to the outlet all work find , however light switch didn't turn on or off the lights also looks like the other 4 wires that i did not use are connected to my kitchen so had no lights there. grr. could you please give me any ideas how to make this work...
The red wire is the switched conductor. It should be connected to any lights that you want to control with the switch, along with a neutral. The splices should be all the grounds together (and pig-tails to the outlet box and receptacle green terminal), all the whites together with a pig-tail to the silver terminal (s) of the receptacle (I assume to plug shop lights into?), the red wire to the brass terminal (s) of the receptacle, and the black wires spliced together to restore power to your kitchen.
Thank you, honestly the breaker switched out and splitting the tab made things work
Just curious, is it fine if neutral goes to either of the silver terminal 3:51?
I notice my kitchen one has neutral attached to the silver terminal close to the ground.
No, it doesn't matter. those 2 terminals are connected by a breakable tab just like there is on the hot terminal side, but with the tab intact, they are electrically joined.
Thanks. I have a follow up question or suggestion.
Maybe you can also post the receptacle you use and see they can pay you the advertisement.
I like this video. My kitchen receptacle under the sink stops working. I consider to replace one. I am curious if any receptacle will work, or just the one you use. I also have 3 wires but not 4 wires.
@@KaiWang-f4m Thanks for the suggestion. Paid promotions or reviews are usually agreed upon and paid in advance. I get approached by many products looking for both paid and reviews in exchange for the products.
To answer your question, if the receptacle you are referring to is under the sink, it is likely that one half is hot all the time (to plug in a built-in dishwasher) and the other is on a switch (for a kitchen garbage disposal or garbuerator (Canadian term). Check if you have a switch above the countertop and near the sink that if you turn on, the receptacle then works!
What part of the tab you break off on a Leviton USB outlet? It doesn't look like the standard outlet you have.
You won't be able to use that on a split circuit.
This was exactly the information I was looking for. Excellent video! Thank you.
You are welcome! Thanks for the nice comment.
Breaking off the tab connector at the 5:45 min mark solved my problem. Subscribed, liked, and shared!
That' excellent! Thanks!
I have a split receptacle within 3 feet of the kitchen sink, so need to replace with a GFCI. I know to split a regular receptacle by breaking the tab on the hot side, but how do I split top from bottom outlets on a GFCI? It is the only outlet in both circuits, so no ‘line’ requirement.
My advice, why change it to a GFCI? It's complicated because the shared neutral can mess you up, and you don't need to go with GFCI as your installation is grandfathered to the code rules of the day. I personally like the splits better. But in answer to the question, you can't split a GFCI receptacle.
Thank you very much. Your explanation was simple to follow and extremely helpful.
Terry, the wire I’m dealing with has to be the thinnest, finest ever. It’s for my wall Mount garage opener. It’s black/green (previously hooked up to the red screw) then yellow/red (was on screw labeled white). Of course I go to put up new Chamberlain wall opener, wires too short. I have no idea what I’m doing. The had both wires combined on red side under the screw, and both under white screw touching. I bought push-in connectors to extend all four but wondering if a better way
Thank you just solved a problem. My daughter husband replaced old kitchen plugs with newer ones. There was no power to one of the split plugs. I noticed a red wire and black wire on the gold screws and a white wire on the silver screw. The breaker wont reset because he didn't remove the tab between the 2 gold screws. He said he wired it the exact same way as the previous plug but didn't break the tab. Does it make sense that the breaker wont reset because its 220 instead of 110 because the tab has not being removed.
Yes, makes total sense. That is what is called a “dead short”, or a short circuit!
@@theinternetelectrician Just removed the tab on the gold screws and the breaker reset. The breaker panel was the exact panel in your video,
Don't know why the had neutral wire marred and 2 jumper wires going to both silver screws, the tab was still intact on the silver screw terminal.
@@JimMcLaren1950 Yeah, that is weird they pig-tailed the neutral, and to both terminals with the tab intact. Clearly did not understand what they were doing. Glad you have it all worked out!
My question is what if you were installing a GFI outlet, can you still split it?
No, that won't work. Watch this one for more detail on why. th-cam.com/video/bLIPMLciKjk/w-d-xo.html
Thanks, This is great for New Work how about existing Old work - Do I have to snake a 12-3 wire to the outlet in order for one plug to always be Hot and the other controlled by a Switch..
I'd need more detail here Frank. Not sure what you're asking, but if you just leave the existing 3-wire kitchen circuit as it is, no need to change as code rules are grandfathered to the day the work was done.
@@theinternetelectrician Hi and thank you: Some Dummy used the dedicated garbage disposal switch to an outlet to also connect the dishwasher to the same outlet under the sink. Everyone thought the dishwasher didn't work but when I ran the garbage disposal the dishwasher powered on and was running.... Too late I already ordered a new dishwasher and am using an extension cord to a live outlet when I want to run it.... The switch for the garbage disposal box also has a switch to an overhead light and an outlet in the same box. HELP!
You didnt show us how to wire the switch.? I understand the 12- 3 runs from the panel to the outlet.
thanks for your explanation. is it possible to change the receptacle to GFCI? how would the wiring be in this case?
I have the exact same question. I've got on these split circuits in the kitchen and would like to replace it with GFCI. What should the wiring be. presumably the black/white goes to the line. Where does the red wire go to - presumably the load - but on the white/black side?
Would it be better to change the split circuit with a GFI outlet in the kitchen? Would this be difficult?
Thanks again!
Personally, I would just leave it as it is.
So if I had this set up and I was looking to install GFCI outlets, how would I go about installing those outlets?
You have to abandon one of the hot wires. But I always ask "why" when people ask me this. I like the splits. Just don't drop the toaster in the sink!
wait, what!? you make the nice loop using that hole? dang...... so smooth!
Someone had to show me that too! Can't remember who, but it's good to know! I hope you gave it a 'like' and that you subscribed to my channel and clicked the notification bell? That way you'll know when I release a new video! Much appreciated!
Does it matter if the red wire goes on the bottom and black on top? Thanks for the useful info.
That’s exactly what I needed, I’ll do it this afternoon thank you very much have a good one !✌️
Don't forget to break the tab! I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
@@theinternetelectrician thanks ! I broke the tab and used a pig tail to go all around the others. I subscribed and hit the bell too :) have a good one !
This is great. Explains what I did wrong. Thank you.
Have a question though. One of the split recepticals I am replacing, I want to use an outlet that also has usb plugs. It doesn't have terminals, just three wires (ground, hot, neutral) so there is nothing to split.
Any suggestion one what I should do?
You would have to cap off and not use one of the hot wires in this case. I would appreciate it if you like, subscribe, and click the bell as well (if you already did, thanks!) It really helps us creators gain traction with TH-cam.
This has been around for 40 Years, electrical code required this in all kitchens, unfortunately elecrticians did not wire the receptacles corectly. this video should have been shown to them in the 70's. Good job.
Thanks Robert!
Thank you so much, I was going to call an electrician but your video was so clear for me to fix this problem myself.
Same with me I was about to call the electrician and your video saved my dollars
My kitchen is wired this way for the outlets and the dishwasher. I have no idea now how to add GFCI protection. Any ideas on how i'd do that?
To meet the new code it would require re-wiring the kitchen with #12 wire and 20A circuits. To add GFCI protection to your existing is complicated by the shared neutrals and you'd have to have an electrician look at your particular installation to advise on how best to go about that. My advise would be to leave it as is. It is grandfathered as it was the code of the day, and unless you feel that you really would like the added protection that GFCI provides?
Thank u so much! U saved me from constantly tripping the breaker and spark fire the house down!
On a more serious note, may i ask if its possible to add another receptacle from this set up on the same circuit of course. Basically, we need to add a receptacle in an area where the close by receptacle is a split receptacle...
Can i do pigtails to create extra set of new wires from the original split receptacle circuit before it enters into the original split receptacle. Then connect to the 2 (old and new)split receptacles?
Or is there a simple way to go about this since the new receptacle doesn't have to be a split receptacle. It could be a regular receptacle since very little power will be drawn from it. Maybe 30 watts at most.
Thank you so much in advance for ur answer ☺️
The code rule (to ensure you have lots of circuit capacity in the kitchen) was to have no more than 2 split receptacles on one 2-pole circuit, and to alternate them so adjacent receptacles aren't on the same circuit. Having said that, there would be no concerns adding to these normally under-utilized circuits. You could make the additional one a split, or just pick one of the 2 hots to feed the duplex receptacle that you add. Just do it safely and correctly and you should be fine!
Thank you so much for ur quick answer. May i ask if u have a video showing how to convert a split receptacle with (red,black and white wires) to a regular receptacle without pulling a new line?
And using the extra hot wire to make an additional outlet?
Thank you so very much 🥰
This video saved my day as I wasnt splitting the live terminal...