Valve Tappet Clearance Adjustment Suzuki V-Strom 1000 (Part 2)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024
- Part 2 of 3. The Urban Monk takes a necessary break from work on his cafe racer project to do some routine maintenance on his 2012 Suzuki V-Strom 1000 - a valve clearance inspection and adjustment.
The procedures and steps detailed here will useful to anyone doing a valve/tappet clearance adjustment on a DL1000, SV1000 or TL1000. It would also translate well to owners of DL650, SV650, SFV650. Finally, it contains helpful information for doing a valve clearance check on any overhead cam motorcycle engine.
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Great content. I have to adjust the same exh valve and this video helped immensely. I have to say that camera and lighting improvements would help though :)
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for posting these really well made and instructional videos on servicing the SV1000 motor. I have a 2006 Cagiva Raptor that uses the SV1000 engine, and are attempting my first valve clearance check at 18000 miles, a job I would not have considered without your videos. Currently, the bike almost seems to stall at 3000 rpm, before carrying on up the rev range, so I'm hoping a valve adjustment may go some way to sort this issue.
Paul Davies Thanks. My V-Strom likes to misfire and "cough" around 3000 rpm too. I think it's a fueling issue that is a fault of factory mapping. I just try to manage my gear position and stay at 4000 plus. It's very happy at that speed. Power commander would solve it too, but I'm too cheap. ☺
Glad you hear you got in there in time. I'm surprised the clearances are that tight after only 18K. No matter, you can open them up now and ride on. :)
Good point about the mileage, the bike is over ten years old and I'm the sixth owner.Having now checked the front cylinder, the clearances are just as tight , only one inlet valve was just on 0.10mm. Black, smelly liquid (with bits !) came out of the radiator. So far, I'm finding the process very rewarding, knowing that a major service will do a great deal of good.Cheers.
I've got 32,000 miles on mine and running like a champ. I've read accounts on Stromtroopers.com of these engines going 100K, even over 200K! Keep up the good work and enjoy!
Me too, if I ride at 3000 rpm it is likely to start caughing. I have sv1000S. Mine was worse with the power commander, the previous owner had installed. I don't have the cord to make adjustments to Power commander, so I removed it and the bike runs alot better without it. But I generally try to keep the rpms above 3000 to avoid the caughing issue.
Very good and detailed. I feel way more comfortable doing it myself.
Great! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing, very helpful. I found your video while researching valve adjustments for my TL1000R. These look like the same heads design and procedure and helped clear up some things when looking at my manual.
Glad I could help! Yes, the DL (and SV) engine is the offspring of the TL. Should be very similar. Thanks for watching!
Really good presentation. Tips are good. Very professional thanks.
David Syratt Thanks for watching!
Cool. I'm getting ready to do a 15k check on new-to-me 2014 VEE. Get the baseline. Curious about your decision on the rear exhaust valves. Do I read that correctly? 0.279 mm on both? Which is to say really close to 0.28 mm which is closer to the limit of 0.3 mm than to the middle 0.25 mm. Yet, the decision wasn't mentioned (15:29). Not sure if after getting all of those bits off, that I'd make the same choice.
This was so long ago I had to watch the video again myself to recall those decisions. What I can say is that particular exhaust valve stayed within spec for the next 40,000 miles without needing additional changes to the shim. At 71,000 I adjusted that shim again before my cross country trip (th-cam.com/video/OT5poLui1J8/w-d-xo.html). I'm now at about 83,500 miles and am planning to do another check soon and review of the bike. It's been a wonderful machine to own and I think you will be happy with your 2014. Thanks for watching!
great stuff thanks urban monk!
Dr Nobody Thanks for watching!
Great effort, thanks 👌
Thanks for watching!
wow great video.ty.new subbed
Thanks for watching! I've been taking a little break but have some more video in the can that will be coming soon.
Very goos job! Congratulations!
hi. is it a necessity to change the gasket rubber ? are there any other rubber parts i.e. o_rings or so required to be changed ? what is the diameter for the original shims please?
I dont believe it is necessary to change the rubber seals and o rings every time. I'm still working with my original at 60K miles and 7 years of age. There is the cover gasket, another round one around the spark plug hole and a third o-ring. Again I've changed none yet. May change the O-ring next time at 75K. The stock shims are 9.48mm diameter. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV Thank you Sir
Is this a rocker arm set up? Im just trying to work out how a thinner shim would open up the valve
Thanks for watching! It is not a rocker rocker system. A thinner shim doesn't open the valve more...it opens the valve clearance more (gap between cam lobe and the valve shim bucket.) As the valve wears it seats further into the head and closes that gap, thus necessitating thinner shims to maintain proper gap.
@@UrbanMonkTV Thanks for the help, starting to work it out
@@doctorhelicopter You're more than welcome. It was a great question. One I'm sure others would like to ask also.
I'm confused as to why you are saying that the valve is wearing when the measurement is at the bottom end of where it should be. The gap would get larger as it wears would it not?
No, as the valve "wears" it sits further into the valve seat, thus raising the valve stem and narrowing the gap. Therefore progressively thinner shims must be installed to maintain the proper gap.
@@UrbanMonkTV I see what saying, I've just never seen valves tighten over mileage... only loosen. I would see why you would be concerned that you keep having this issue on the one valve..
I just checked mine with 26,000 miles and all exhaust were between .008 and.010 and all Intake were right between .004 and .006.
Thanks for the videos, definitely gave me the courage to dive in!
Good video. Well don’t. You needed shim 2.35mm not 2.75mm. Your shim was 2.85mm minus 0.5mm is 2.35mm should bring your clearance to 2.5mm
Thanks for watching. The shim sizes are manufactured in 5 hundredths increments (0.05, not 0.5). I did make the correct adjustment to mine in this video.
16:20, that's what she said.