Thank you very much for making these videos! I did complete maintenance on a recently purchased V Strom DL1000 including valve shims replacements, brake fluid changes, brake pad replacements, and tire/chain replacements. You saved me a lot of time and money! Appreciated you sharing your product reviews as well. Thank you!!!
Thanks so much for this. Replaced the chain and sprockets on my Strom this morning, and I couldn't have done it without your help. Owe you a beer. Cheers.
Great instructional video! I would recommend installing the used masterlink to one end of the new chain before pulling it off the front sprocket then pulling it off which pulls the new chain onto the fwd sprocket so you don't have fish around with your fingers to install the new chain over the sprocket, Much easier. Thanks, this video will save you around $700 over taking it to the Suzuki shop.
Great video man, I was going to pay someone to put my new chain and sprockets on but after watching this I feel confident I can do it myself. Very detailed and nice camera shots too.
Hey Urban Monk, this is an awesome video. Show step by step of DIY on the chain and sprocket including the torque on the tightening of the bolts. Really awesome!👍 I'm awaiting the delivery of the 1050XT and I'm trying to learn a few things here and there.
As always, a great video. I have the Cymarc rear sprocket spacer mod. It's marketed as a 'gear change enhancer', and definitely lessens the 'clunky-ness'.
Another excellent "how to" video. Would like to make two comments that may be helpful to some. I ride a first generation 650 DL. I went up one tooth on the front sprocket on my last chain and sprockets change. Because I do a lot of long distance touring, the taller front sprocket worked out perfectly. Like adding a 7th gear. Also want to comment on the chain connector. I used a clip type fastener on this change. Turned out to be a really bad idea. About 2,500 miles into the road trip after the chain replacement... I suffered a catastrophic failure. The chain came apart, (at the link) breaking the clutch rod, and seal. Oil dumped all over the rear tire and road..... at 70 mph, I was so fortunate the chain didn't lockup the rear tire or send me slidi g down the hwy on my butt because of the oil. All of the possible (could haves) scares me to death. It's possible that I did something wrong when installing the clip, but will never really know. In the end, I'll never trust the clip again. On a side note.... to the testament of the V-Stroms resiliency, the only damage done was to the clutch rod, and it's seal. $30 and 30 minutes later I was back on the road.
Thanks for sharing your insights Pierre. I have since been using rivet type master links, but I didn't have any troubles with this one (though I only ran this particular chain for 7k miles as it was stretched beyond service limit at that point. )
why didn't you buy a chain with 112 links? what is the difference between first and second chain? i see you only put a clip on the second one and the first one was riveted. otherwise great video.
Chain was much less expensive in the length I bought it. Clip vs rivet, just two different ways to do the same thing. Many people don't trust the clips, but I've never had one come off and never heard of anyone losing one.
ronzoni62 Thanks for watching! This chain came with clip style. I've since done a follow up review on the shortcomings of this chain, but the clip gave me no troubles. Now my bike has a different chain on it (with a rivet master link) because this WPS stretched fast (6200 miles). Based on my experience I'm not ready to vilify clip-style master links. Just working off the facts of my experience.
OK I’m sorry I don’t like to comment negative you got a great video until the point where you put the clip type master link on there that should always be a riveting master on a street bike chain Why take the risk. So dangerous. Manual even states only a endless chain on that motorcycle Video was great that’s the only problem I have with the video. sorry for all this comment
How has the new chain and sprockets held up? I have had bad luck with some chains and sprockets I've got on my V Strom. Getting ready to put a new set on already after 7000 miles
Very well. I got over 22k out of the chain and more than that for the sprockets. 7k seems quite low, but there many factors. I can only speak to my own situation. I tend to clean every 600 miles or so and spray chain lube more frequently than that. Say every 300-400 on average. Thanks for watching!
Hello, the video is very good. Is it advisable to use a chain with a clip for a motorcycle of that displacement? How about your experience? Regards for Spain.
Hola desde Los Angeles! I've never had any trouble with the clips personally and I've not ever met another person who has, but I still tend to prefer a rivet style master link. This particular chain just didn't come with one. I wasn't very happy with the longevity of that Western Powersports chain. Been liking BikeMaster more, but not sure if those are sold in Europe.
@@UrbanMonkTV Thank you very much for your words, they are very helpful. That chain brand is not sold in Europe, that's why my doubts. Good video and greetings!!
Thanks for watching. Do you believe you got the chain aligned well with the rear sprocket? Put another way, is the rear axle perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the chain? That's about the only thing that comes to mind from my chair here. I'd have to have your bike in front of me to do any better I think.
@@masonstruckadventure9368 I use JT front sprockets also since removing the original damped sprocket years ago. I can't say that I notice a sound like you are describing, but it is entirely possible that I've grown used to it sounding that way. I don't recall a noticeable difference when I made the first switch.
I have used both in the past, though I prefer rivet for piece of mind. I've never had a clip come off of my chain and I've never heard of it happening to anyone I know. If one is riding off road (where objects may come in contact with the chain) I might see the strict prohibition on clips, but for on-road I wouldn't be concerned. Personal preference. Thanks for watching!
Getting ready to change sprockets & chain on my '07 DL1000 and I ran across an interesting new design of master link on Amazon made by EK called a "screw type". This is my my first liter bike and after using spring type master links on dirt bikes for decades (with nary a failure for me or anyone I know), I think might try this new screw type link. Seems like a good compromise of strength between a rivet type master link (of which I've admittedly never actually installed one) and a spring type link with the bonus of what appears to be a much easier installation process than either of the aforementioned industry standard links.
@@vinced2514 I can't speak to the screw type as I've never used, but the theory sounds good. As for "strength" of clip style, there's no difference in lateral tensile strength between a rivet-style link and a clip-style, all else being equal. The clip adds nothing to lateral strength - it only keeps the link in place.
@@UrbanMonkTV I tend to agree with you, but I think the prevailing opinion, at least on internet forums, is that the spring clip style is not as bullet proof (as evidenced by Brent's comment above). "My" piece of mind comes from feeling that clip snap into place in the grooves on the link pins on the spring type link. Seeing a little bit of metal peened over on the ends of the pins by deforming them doesn't seem like would vive me quite as much of a warm fuzzy. Like you say, there's almost no lateral movement in the chain, so it really shouldn't matter. Thanks for the great vids!
Thanks for the videos. Have you ever heard of the clutch not disengaging after all this is put back together. I've looked up many links and can't find out how to fix this issue.
I have not, sorry. After sprockets and a chain? Is the clutch hydraulic system leaking anywhere? Was the clutch pushrod removed and left out? Thanks for watching.
@@UrbanMonkTV Yeah, I installed new sprocket and chain. Afterwards, the clutch felt a little weak, so I bled it until it was clear fluid and no bubbles. Still bad. Then I took the slave off and tried to clean the area again and after reinstalling the slave, it did not work. Master works, Slave works, no leaks, I cleaned the push rod, I can see the clutch plate moving (through the oil filler cap) when I pull the lever. But (with the bike off) the bike won't move in gear with the lever pulled. And it won't even start (as if the safety switch is tripped) when it is in 1st and I press the ignition while I pull the lever. Anyways, sorry for the long description. I have used your videos many times to help me with this bike. Keep up the good work. Thank you very much.
@@JD-de4fk If you're seeing the clutch plate move then you've most likely got everything sorted properly there. It shouldn't turn over when in gear, even with the clutch pulled in. Hope I'm reading your comment right.
Thanks for watching. I've since removed this WPS chain. It stretched beyond service limit in only 7200 miles. I now have a Bikemaster chain on and it is holding up really well. Pacing to be comparable with the original chain. Enjoy the project!
Love your videos, very detailed and complete. Do you have one for front wheel removal, don't think I saw it in your library of videos. Did you buy the chain and sprockets as a kit, if so what was your source?
Wayne Howarth Thanks! I haven't done a front wheel removal video yet b/c I haven't had the wheel off in a very long time. My Shinko 705 has lasted over 35,000 miles! Will do one soon though.
Thanks for watching! The swingarm has a notch formed into it that rides inside a channel on the rear brake caliper mounting plate. The brake assembly can slide forward and back on that notch as needed to adjust chain tension but it also locks the assembly from rotating with the brake disk in either direction. The only travel allowed is forward or backward as the rear axle is adjusted forward or back. Hope that makes sense.
Learned a very good tip: When removing and installing the front sprocket, apply torque with the chain ON. That way, you can use the rear brake to keep it from spinning. No need to bend screwdrivers or lock the chain with some gizmo.
Thanks for watching! Rear nut 24mm. Front is 19mm inverse. You'll want to order one of these... www.amazon.com/Ease2U-Motorcycles-Hex-Axle-Tool/dp/B07S8SHT3Q/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=19mm+axle+nut+tool&qid=1612287931&sr=8-2
Thanks for watching! Hmm. I don't recall any play, but there could be the slightest amount. Very slight I'd think. If it is pronounced. Then new rubbers might be in order. How much play do you have? You could draw a line across the gap between the two parts an then rotate to give it a value, though I don't know if there's a spec to compare to.
Yes not much play. I will measure it. I wondered if that rear wheel spacer is a good idea. Also starting to shift hard 1st to second ? I just don't know enough about the issue !
@@craigwesson1788 I haven't bothered with the rear wheel spacer. The slight offset is clearly there, but it's never been an issue in terms of wear on chain or sprockets for me. As for shifting hard from 1 to 2, I have similar issue when chain is loose and I realized after a while I was shifting too late. These bikes have low gearing in 1st - presumably for riding offroad. I shift sooner now and it's smooth.
Thank you. I will check the chain slack. The bike has 50,000 km on it. The last owner said he followed the service manual for what needed to be done. Service manual doesn't go past 24,000 km so I imagine you just double numbers and do it at that mileage.. Great vstrom videos, thanks. Helped me greatly. Wish I lived in a place I could ride all year ! Thanks from north of the border, Craig.
@@craigwesson1788 I'd agree with your approach beyond the service manual's 24,000 km limitation. I've got 80,500 km on mine and that's pretty much what I've done. As for chain tension, the service manual calls for 20-30mm. I tend to run toward 20. Having lived 46 years in North Dakota and Minnesota, I understand your desire to live in a year round riding climate. Funny thing is, I've been dreaming of riding all around Canada for the past couple years. Maybe there's a lesson in that. 😄
Thank you very much for making these videos! I did complete maintenance on a recently purchased V Strom DL1000 including valve shims replacements, brake fluid changes, brake pad replacements, and tire/chain replacements. You saved me a lot of time and money! Appreciated you sharing your product reviews as well. Thank you!!!
Thanks for watching! Enjoy your Strom! Great machines.
Thanks so much for this. Replaced the chain and sprockets on my Strom this morning, and I couldn't have done it without your help. Owe you a beer. Cheers.
Thank you for watching. I'm very happy my video was helpful.
Great instructional video! I would recommend installing the used masterlink to one end of the new chain before pulling it off the front sprocket then pulling it off which pulls the new chain onto the fwd sprocket so you don't have fish around with your fingers to install the new chain over the sprocket, Much easier. Thanks, this video will save you around $700 over taking it to the Suzuki shop.
Thanks for watching! I accept Venmo. 😄
I wanted to thank you, this video helped me alot :) I felt like a had a buddy teaching and cracking jokes along the way, very enjoyable
Oh thank you so much! I really appreciate that. Hopefully my jokes weren't too terrible. 😄
@@UrbanMonkTV it was great, I appreciate the time and effort you took to make part 1 and 2 :)
It's not often that I literally take notes from a youtube video. Thank you so much!
That's great! Thanks for watching!
Great video man, I was going to pay someone to put my new chain and sprockets on but after watching this I feel confident I can do it myself. Very detailed and nice camera shots too.
The Only Road Forward Thanks for watching!
Hey Urban Monk, this is an awesome video. Show step by step of DIY on the chain and sprocket including the torque on the tightening of the bolts. Really awesome!👍
I'm awaiting the delivery of the 1050XT and I'm trying to learn a few things here and there.
Thank you for watching!
Well Done!! Very smooth contiguous video!!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you, great camera work and good step by step video, and thx for sharing the torques.
Thanks for watching!
The screwdriver trick to hold the chain,very good tip👍🇮🇲cheers
Thanks. Not my intellectual offspring - had read of someone else doing it many years ago.
@@UrbanMonkTV thanks 👍🇮🇲
thanks so much for this great video,,just did the front and rear sprockets and chain on my VStrom...youre the best
As always, a great video. I have the Cymarc rear sprocket spacer mod. It's marketed as a 'gear change enhancer', and definitely lessens the 'clunky-ness'.
Thank you!
this looks like a great motorcycle to learn maintenance on? thanks
Thanks for watching!
Another excellent "how to" video. Would like to make two comments that may be helpful to some. I ride a first generation 650 DL. I went up one tooth on the front sprocket on my last chain and sprockets change. Because I do a lot of long distance touring, the taller front sprocket worked out perfectly. Like adding a 7th gear. Also want to comment on the chain connector. I used a clip type fastener on this change. Turned out to be a really bad idea. About 2,500 miles into the road trip after the chain replacement... I suffered a catastrophic failure. The chain came apart, (at the link) breaking the clutch rod, and seal. Oil dumped all over the rear tire and road..... at 70 mph, I was so fortunate the chain didn't lockup the rear tire or send me slidi g down the hwy on my butt because of the oil. All of the possible (could haves) scares me to death. It's possible that I did something wrong when installing the clip, but will never really know. In the end, I'll never trust the clip again. On a side note.... to the testament of the V-Stroms resiliency, the only damage done was to the clutch rod, and it's seal. $30 and 30 minutes later I was back on the road.
Thanks for sharing your insights Pierre. I have since been using rivet type master links, but I didn't have any troubles with this one (though I only ran this particular chain for 7k miles as it was stretched beyond service limit at that point. )
Do I have to take chain off to replace front sprocket. Adding a tooth as well
Thanks, I'll be doing this as soon as I get parts.
Thanks for watching! If you prefer a rivet master link. I've got a video on that too on a different bike, but they're all pretty much the same.
Here's the rivet link video if you need it. th-cam.com/video/Sl9sbENnR7Y/w-d-xo.html
why didn't you buy a chain with 112 links? what is the difference between first and second chain? i see you only put a clip on the second one and the first one was riveted. otherwise great video.
Chain was much less expensive in the length I bought it. Clip vs rivet, just two different ways to do the same thing. Many people don't trust the clips, but I've never had one come off and never heard of anyone losing one.
Great detailed video. Thank you
Nice video, BUT why do you use clip master link instead rivetting master link ?
ronzoni62 Thanks for watching! This chain came with clip style. I've since done a follow up review on the shortcomings of this chain, but the clip gave me no troubles. Now my bike has a different chain on it (with a rivet master link) because this WPS stretched fast (6200 miles). Based on my experience I'm not ready to vilify clip-style master links. Just working off the facts of my experience.
Thanks so much for these videos! Very helpful!
Thank you for watching!
OK I’m sorry I don’t like to comment negative you got a great video until the point where you put the clip type master link on there that should always be a riveting master on a street bike chain
Why take the risk. So dangerous. Manual even states only a endless chain on that motorcycle Video was great that’s the only problem I have with the video. sorry for all this comment
Great video! We can refeel the liquid for the clutck??
Thanks for watching. Yes, I have a video on changing/flushing the clutch fluid. Can be found here th-cam.com/video/Dt6m2Cwtywk/w-d-xo.html
How has the new chain and sprockets held up? I have had bad luck with some chains and sprockets I've got on my V Strom. Getting ready to put a new set on already after 7000 miles
Very well. I got over 22k out of the chain and more than that for the sprockets. 7k seems quite low, but there many factors. I can only speak to my own situation. I tend to clean every 600 miles or so and spray chain lube more frequently than that. Say every 300-400 on average. Thanks for watching!
Thanks man. I have the same bike. Same miles. Hollar at me sometime. We can swap story.
Thanks for watching!
Hello, the video is very good.
Is it advisable to use a chain with a clip for a motorcycle of that displacement?
How about your experience?
Regards for Spain.
Hola desde Los Angeles! I've never had any trouble with the clips personally and I've not ever met another person who has, but I still tend to prefer a rivet style master link. This particular chain just didn't come with one. I wasn't very happy with the longevity of that Western Powersports chain. Been liking BikeMaster more, but not sure if those are sold in Europe.
@@UrbanMonkTV Thank you very much for your words, they are very helpful.
That chain brand is not sold in Europe, that's why my doubts.
Good video and greetings!!
I recently replaced sprockets and Chain on my 15 vstrom, noticed whistling humming sound at high speed. I'm open to suggestions
Thanks for watching. Do you believe you got the chain aligned well with the rear sprocket? Put another way, is the rear axle perfectly perpendicular to the axis of the chain? That's about the only thing that comes to mind from my chair here. I'd have to have your bike in front of me to do any better I think.
@@UrbanMonkTV front sprocket for jt has no dampers like the original could that be it, it's the only thing i see rules out
@@masonstruckadventure9368 I use JT front sprockets also since removing the original damped sprocket years ago. I can't say that I notice a sound like you are describing, but it is entirely possible that I've grown used to it sounding that way. I don't recall a noticeable difference when I made the first switch.
@@UrbanMonkTV Thanks for responding, I'll keep an eye and ear on it.
Is it OK to use a clip type joint for an MC the size of a Vstrom? I've been recommended to use a rivet type joint.
I have used both in the past, though I prefer rivet for piece of mind. I've never had a clip come off of my chain and I've never heard of it happening to anyone I know. If one is riding off road (where objects may come in contact with the chain) I might see the strict prohibition on clips, but for on-road I wouldn't be concerned. Personal preference. Thanks for watching!
No
Getting ready to change sprockets & chain on my '07 DL1000 and I ran across an interesting new design of master link on Amazon made by EK called a "screw type". This is my my first liter bike and after using spring type master links on dirt bikes for decades (with nary a failure for me or anyone I know), I think might try this new screw type link. Seems like a good compromise of strength between a rivet type master link (of which I've admittedly never actually installed one) and a spring type link with the bonus of what appears to be a much easier installation process than either of the aforementioned industry standard links.
@@vinced2514 I can't speak to the screw type as I've never used, but the theory sounds good. As for "strength" of clip style, there's no difference in lateral tensile strength between a rivet-style link and a clip-style, all else being equal. The clip adds nothing to lateral strength - it only keeps the link in place.
@@UrbanMonkTV I tend to agree with you, but I think the prevailing opinion, at least on internet forums, is that the spring clip style is not as bullet proof (as evidenced by Brent's comment above). "My" piece of mind comes from feeling that clip snap into place in the grooves on the link pins on the spring type link. Seeing a little bit of metal peened over on the ends of the pins by deforming them doesn't seem like would vive me quite as much of a warm fuzzy. Like you say, there's almost no lateral movement in the chain, so it really shouldn't matter. Thanks for the great vids!
top stuff thanks for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the videos. Have you ever heard of the clutch not disengaging after all this is put back together. I've looked up many links and can't find out how to fix this issue.
I have not, sorry. After sprockets and a chain? Is the clutch hydraulic system leaking anywhere? Was the clutch pushrod removed and left out? Thanks for watching.
@@UrbanMonkTV Yeah, I installed new sprocket and chain. Afterwards, the clutch felt a little weak, so I bled it until it was clear fluid and no bubbles. Still bad. Then I took the slave off and tried to clean the area again and after reinstalling the slave, it did not work. Master works, Slave works, no leaks, I cleaned the push rod, I can see the clutch plate moving (through the oil filler cap) when I pull the lever. But (with the bike off) the bike won't move in gear with the lever pulled. And it won't even start (as if the safety switch is tripped) when it is in 1st and I press the ignition while I pull the lever. Anyways, sorry for the long description. I have used your videos many times to help me with this bike. Keep up the good work. Thank you very much.
@@JD-de4fk If you're seeing the clutch plate move then you've most likely got everything sorted properly there. It shouldn't turn over when in gear, even with the clutch pulled in. Hope I'm reading your comment right.
I have around 35k on mine also. I ordered the Suzuki kit, price wise it is comparable. Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for watching. I've since removed this WPS chain. It stretched beyond service limit in only 7200 miles. I now have a Bikemaster chain on and it is holding up really well. Pacing to be comparable with the original chain. Enjoy the project!
Love your videos, very detailed and complete. Do you have one for front wheel removal, don't think I saw it in your library of videos. Did you buy the chain and sprockets as a kit, if so what was your source?
Wayne Howarth Thanks! I haven't done a front wheel removal video yet b/c I haven't had the wheel off in a very long time. My Shinko 705 has lasted over 35,000 miles! Will do one soon though.
Wayne Howarth and chain and sprockets came from eBay, purchased separately.
Always love the videos, i watch them quite often. I was wondering however how you measure chain slack. by eye or do you measure it somehow ?
Thanks! By this point in my life I measure by eye now.
@@UrbanMonkTV lol. With your experience I’m sure it’s bang on. I hope your wife is still doing well 😊
@@craigwesson1788 Thank you! Yes, she's doing great and we are grateful every day for it.
AFAICT, that rear break did not go correctly into the swing arm pivot. Wouldn't it move when you break while you role backward?
Thanks for watching! The swingarm has a notch formed into it that rides inside a channel on the rear brake caliper mounting plate. The brake assembly can slide forward and back on that notch as needed to adjust chain tension but it also locks the assembly from rotating with the brake disk in either direction. The only travel allowed is forward or backward as the rear axle is adjusted forward or back. Hope that makes sense.
why would you use thread locker on the front sprocket nut, its a self locking nut torqued to spec????
Peace of mind. Thanks for watching!
@@UrbanMonkTV OK,
Learned a very good tip: When removing and installing the front sprocket, apply torque with the chain ON. That way, you can use the rear brake to keep it from spinning. No need to bend screwdrivers or lock the chain with some gizmo.
What are the socket sizes for the front and rear wheel nuts? I just bought a 2006 DL 1000.
Thanks for watching! Rear nut 24mm. Front is 19mm inverse. You'll want to order one of these... www.amazon.com/Ease2U-Motorcycles-Hex-Axle-Tool/dp/B07S8SHT3Q/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=19mm+axle+nut+tool&qid=1612287931&sr=8-2
@@UrbanMonkTV thank you. I enjoy your videos because they are very detailed. I just ordered the inverse socket from the link.
@@duncang01 Torque spec on both is 72.5 lb/ft
Loved the video and your narrative. It's been a great help. One thing I missed, was there any play with the Cush drive and rear sprocket?
Thanks for watching! Hmm. I don't recall any play, but there could be the slightest amount. Very slight I'd think. If it is pronounced. Then new rubbers might be in order. How much play do you have? You could draw a line across the gap between the two parts an then rotate to give it a value, though I don't know if there's a spec to compare to.
Yes not much play. I will measure it. I wondered if that rear wheel spacer is a good idea. Also starting to shift hard 1st to second ? I just don't know enough about the issue !
@@craigwesson1788 I haven't bothered with the rear wheel spacer. The slight offset is clearly there, but it's never been an issue in terms of wear on chain or sprockets for me. As for shifting hard from 1 to 2, I have similar issue when chain is loose and I realized after a while I was shifting too late. These bikes have low gearing in 1st - presumably for riding offroad. I shift sooner now and it's smooth.
Thank you. I will check the chain slack. The bike has 50,000 km on it. The last owner said he followed the service manual for what needed to be done. Service manual doesn't go past 24,000 km so I imagine you just double numbers and do it at that mileage..
Great vstrom videos, thanks. Helped me greatly. Wish I lived in a place I could ride all year !
Thanks from north of the border, Craig.
@@craigwesson1788 I'd agree with your approach beyond the service manual's 24,000 km limitation. I've got 80,500 km on mine and that's pretty much what I've done. As for chain tension, the service manual calls for 20-30mm. I tend to run toward 20. Having lived 46 years in North Dakota and Minnesota, I understand your desire to live in a year round riding climate. Funny thing is, I've been dreaming of riding all around Canada for the past couple years. Maybe there's a lesson in that. 😄
What year is your VStrom? Looks like the 2002-2012, just want to know if I can use your torque values on my 2012. Thanks for the video!
Dan Koerner It's a 2012. Torque away!