Just FYI...this ring's design is a little too flat, and it does not print well. In a second version of this, I really pump up the raised design so it will print and cast well.
Kat Adair sorry, it's almost exactly at the start 0:46 . After you draw the mask (which seems to be on a half cylinder, but later turns into a full cylinder, which I'm also not sure how to do?) I'm not sure how you then turn it into the two parts and come away with the rough ring shape? Thank you for your quick reply! (I'm sorry that I'm so bad at explaining things but hopefully you got the idea)
I think I know what part you're asking about...this is an old video, and I do them differently now. But you make a cylinder, then DynaMesh the cylinder with a resolution of maybe 256 to get a nice, clean "grid" to design on. Use the masking brush (command on a Mac, ctrl on a PC) to draw your design. There is a command under the Subtool palette, near the bottom, for "Extract." Set the thickness at about 0.12, turn off "Double" and "TBorder," click the Extract button, then IMMEDIATELY click the "Accept" button. On that last part, if you click on the background and move, you'll lose the extracted part. Simply click "Extract" and "Accept" again. This will create a NEW subtool. Go back to the Subtool palette, and click on the extracted subtool to make it active, then turn visibility of the previous subtool off by clicking on the "eye." If you just click on the eye, your extracted subtool should remain the active one. The light gray on Subtools indicates that this is the active tool. You could also click on the cylinder Subtool and click on the "Delete" button below it to get rid of the cylinder...you won't need it anymore. At this point, select the extracted subtool in the Subtool palette...you need to convert the ring into a DynaMesh so you can sculpt on it. If your XYZ size is still about 2-3 units, then DynaMesh resolution could be somewhere between 150-256. I'll do a revised version of this sometime this afternoon that goes a little more into depth. I think on this one I was testing tutorial techniques, so I recorded the video and did a voiceover. I need to do this one as a regular video with more detail. Please feel free to ask questions, and I'll hopefully get you what you need. It was hard to get my head around ZBrush in the beginning...so I'm happy to help!
Yikes! I didn't explain that well. When I created my cylinder, I used the DynaMesh function under the Geometry palette to give it a good, clean mesh that I could draw on. Then I used "SelectRect," which is accessed by holding down Cmd-Shift on a Mac or Ctrl-Shift on a PC. You should see a dotted rectangle at the top left in the brush area when you do this. Draw a box around the cylinder that cuts halfway through, and this hides it temporary so you can work on the rest. To bring the rest of the ring back, you hold down Cmd-Shift or Ctrl-Shift and click on the background. I use that technique a lot to hide part of a model while I work on it. That's also what I use when I'm trying to put my logo on the inside of a ring shank. Based on your questions, I'm going to update this video...I'm at a restaurant right now that's pretty noisy, but let me see if I can find a quiet place to record a quickie video. Are you here in the US? If you go to my website, there is a "contact" link at the top. Actually, we're heading back to the house...I'll do a quick-and-dirty video to explain better. Give me a couple hours...check back!
Beulah, here is an updated version of the video that explains it in more detail. I didn't edit this one like I do for my more current videos because I was trying to get the information to you sooner than later. Let me know if you have any questions on the new one...I get alerts on my Apple Watch when anyone comments, so I should see them come through. Enjoy! th-cam.com/video/mk_0K0inpkw/w-d-xo.html
Hey Steph! I did see this until now. My Facebook is facebook.com/glasskatz, although you'll see more about my adventures in 3D printing and casting on my web page at www.katkramer.com or www.katadair.com (same site)...look for the blog. I've also learned some newer techniques to make the designs more smooth. This one was a quick and dirty video to show my Facebook friends what ZBrush was all about, but without the details...I'm working on some other tutorials for jewelry in the new ZBrush Core, which is less expensive. :-)
Hey Thomas! I just saw your message. It took me a year of struggling through it. I'd taken an online course that was a re-broadcast of a webinar, but I found it frustrating. I have a lot of standard CAD experience, and a jewelry background (more fabrication than casting, although I do print and cast my own pieces). I got a Formlabs Form 2 printer almost two years ago, and I've been printing and casting for about a year. I'm working on some updated videos and a full-length course. I found ZBrush overwhelming in the beginning...in fact, I even called their tech support once in tears because I was having such a hard time understanding the program and didn't even know the questions to ask. Eventually, it started making sense. Since then, I've also realized that you don't have to work at super-high resolutions to get good results. I was literally working on a 2012 MacBook Pro with ZBrush, and the way I learned to work with it was to be smart about the DynaMesh resolutions. I usually don't work in any model with an ActivePoint count more than about 1.5 million. Most of my models are in the 600,000 AP count, which means that I don't spend time waiting for the computer to process. My desktop is a 2014 iMac, and I recently upgraded to a newer MacBook Pro. I'll also use something called Astropad Studio to turn my iPad Pro with an Apple Pencil into a graphic input pad...some ZBrush artists are using expensive Cintiq hardware to be able to draw directly, but my setup with the iPad Pro means I can sit on the couch and "tether" to one of my other machines to draw. If you get this message, I'm curious how you've fared with ZBrush...and what types of things you're trying to do. Check out my other videos, too.
@@KatAdair I know Matrix and seeking some basic tutorials for Zbrush Jewellery. I am seeking a tutorial from you to make an Eagle head Ring in Zbrush. Can you please help me out please please!!!
Just FYI...this ring's design is a little too flat, and it does not print well. In a second version of this, I really pump up the raised design so it will print and cast well.
Thanks for all
Wow kat
You are working dynamic
Your skills would be greatly appreciated
Wonderful Kat
nice tutorial , thanks
Do you use graphics tablet?
Great Work!
Please can you do this video step-by-step from beginning to end thank you.
Madam How to smooth in obj file
love it. how do you create a group for the shank cylinder? then to separate them?
after masking, click on ctrl + W, it'll separate the masked and unmasked areas into separate polygroups
How did you "isolate the ring and get rid of the background" sorry I couldn't follow that part
Beulah Royds, can you tell me what the time stamp is on the video? I’ll be happy to clarify!
Kat Adair sorry, it's almost exactly at the start 0:46 . After you draw the mask (which seems to be on a half cylinder, but later turns into a full cylinder, which I'm also not sure how to do?) I'm not sure how you then turn it into the two parts and come away with the rough ring shape? Thank you for your quick reply! (I'm sorry that I'm so bad at explaining things but hopefully you got the idea)
I think I know what part you're asking about...this is an old video, and I do them differently now. But you make a cylinder, then DynaMesh the cylinder with a resolution of maybe 256 to get a nice, clean "grid" to design on. Use the masking brush (command on a Mac, ctrl on a PC) to draw your design. There is a command under the Subtool palette, near the bottom, for "Extract." Set the thickness at about 0.12, turn off "Double" and "TBorder," click the Extract button, then IMMEDIATELY click the "Accept" button. On that last part, if you click on the background and move, you'll lose the extracted part. Simply click "Extract" and "Accept" again.
This will create a NEW subtool. Go back to the Subtool palette, and click on the extracted subtool to make it active, then turn visibility of the previous subtool off by clicking on the "eye." If you just click on the eye, your extracted subtool should remain the active one. The light gray on Subtools indicates that this is the active tool. You could also click on the cylinder Subtool and click on the "Delete" button below it to get rid of the cylinder...you won't need it anymore.
At this point, select the extracted subtool in the Subtool palette...you need to convert the ring into a DynaMesh so you can sculpt on it. If your XYZ size is still about 2-3 units, then DynaMesh resolution could be somewhere between 150-256.
I'll do a revised version of this sometime this afternoon that goes a little more into depth. I think on this one I was testing tutorial techniques, so I recorded the video and did a voiceover. I need to do this one as a regular video with more detail. Please feel free to ask questions, and I'll hopefully get you what you need.
It was hard to get my head around ZBrush in the beginning...so I'm happy to help!
Yikes! I didn't explain that well. When I created my cylinder, I used the DynaMesh function under the Geometry palette to give it a good, clean mesh that I could draw on. Then I used "SelectRect," which is accessed by holding down Cmd-Shift on a Mac or Ctrl-Shift on a PC. You should see a dotted rectangle at the top left in the brush area when you do this. Draw a box around the cylinder that cuts halfway through, and this hides it temporary so you can work on the rest. To bring the rest of the ring back, you hold down Cmd-Shift or Ctrl-Shift and click on the background.
I use that technique a lot to hide part of a model while I work on it. That's also what I use when I'm trying to put my logo on the inside of a ring shank.
Based on your questions, I'm going to update this video...I'm at a restaurant right now that's pretty noisy, but let me see if I can find a quiet place to record a quickie video. Are you here in the US? If you go to my website, there is a "contact" link at the top. Actually, we're heading back to the house...I'll do a quick-and-dirty video to explain better. Give me a couple hours...check back!
Beulah, here is an updated version of the video that explains it in more detail. I didn't edit this one like I do for my more current videos because I was trying to get the information to you sooner than later. Let me know if you have any questions on the new one...I get alerts on my Apple Watch when anyone comments, so I should see them come through. Enjoy! th-cam.com/video/mk_0K0inpkw/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a link to your facebook
Hey Steph! I did see this until now. My Facebook is facebook.com/glasskatz, although you'll see more about my adventures in 3D printing and casting on my web page at www.katkramer.com or www.katadair.com (same site)...look for the blog. I've also learned some newer techniques to make the designs more smooth. This one was a quick and dirty video to show my Facebook friends what ZBrush was all about, but without the details...I'm working on some other tutorials for jewelry in the new ZBrush Core, which is less expensive. :-)
Please make more videos :)
Hi
this is amazing
thank you
Thank you! I'm finally getting around to making some new ones...and I've been casting some of the designs successfully...so cool to design this way!
Nice understanding i like
where did you learn all this?
Hey Thomas! I just saw your message. It took me a year of struggling through it. I'd taken an online course that was a re-broadcast of a webinar, but I found it frustrating. I have a lot of standard CAD experience, and a jewelry background (more fabrication than casting, although I do print and cast my own pieces). I got a Formlabs Form 2 printer almost two years ago, and I've been printing and casting for about a year.
I'm working on some updated videos and a full-length course. I found ZBrush overwhelming in the beginning...in fact, I even called their tech support once in tears because I was having such a hard time understanding the program and didn't even know the questions to ask. Eventually, it started making sense.
Since then, I've also realized that you don't have to work at super-high resolutions to get good results. I was literally working on a 2012 MacBook Pro with ZBrush, and the way I learned to work with it was to be smart about the DynaMesh resolutions. I usually don't work in any model with an ActivePoint count more than about 1.5 million. Most of my models are in the 600,000 AP count, which means that I don't spend time waiting for the computer to process. My desktop is a 2014 iMac, and I recently upgraded to a newer MacBook Pro. I'll also use something called Astropad Studio to turn my iPad Pro with an Apple Pencil into a graphic input pad...some ZBrush artists are using expensive Cintiq hardware to be able to draw directly, but my setup with the iPad Pro means I can sit on the couch and "tether" to one of my other machines to draw.
If you get this message, I'm curious how you've fared with ZBrush...and what types of things you're trying to do. Check out my other videos, too.
You are the Best!!!
Rana Mujeeb Alam thank you! I’m about to update this one...stay tuned.
@@KatAdair I know Matrix and seeking some basic tutorials for Zbrush Jewellery. I am seeking a tutorial from you to make an Eagle head Ring in Zbrush. Can you please help me out please please!!!
Please advise me, I want to use wacom. Which is best and economical?
Great Work!