I really appreciate this video, i like how you just filmed your process of figuring it all out. Also, the surprise that the physical deconstruction was harder than the electronics. I'm about to replace the cfls on a monitor myself, this is a real confidence booster.
@@ericpierard8351 I know but it's not clear. It should be "the remaining end (FROM power board)" By the way, how can I check if the inverter is disabled? I don't know how to measure it.
Great job. I plan on doing something similar to my monitor as I had the same issue for years, but I just lower the brightness and after an hour I just crank it back up. I have to make sure to crank it back down so I don't have to use a flashlight to decrease it again. Also the bluish tint can be fixed by lowering the blue leaves on the monitor menu or with an PC app or color profile
Wow,you got a very nice designed and highly costing of money monitor for repairing to save some money also saving a lot these repairable stuffs out of those landfills..
I bought 12 of these from a business auction for 10 dollars a piece. Low number of hours on most of them too. Gave away most to friends and family over time.
Just wanted to say well done, I admire your patience. I changed the backlight on a 25 inch screen a few years ago, and the CCFLs of a 40 inch TV a few month ago (this was the most challenging fix I ever did). I know the struggle. Everytime you disassemble a LCD Panel you never know if you're going to break eveything. And now I've got to do it all over again with 19inch Acer screen. I'm not looking forward to this
Oh boy.... And I am using 2 really old 1080p monitors from 2006. One of them is at Max brightness and the other is half. I think one of the CFLs in there will die soon. I won't be looking forward for that.. but if it comes I have to do it because these 2 old monitors I have, they are amazing for what they are
@@aleksandersats9577 I have similar concerns with my 1440p IPS Apple Cinema Display from the same era. Better looking than a brand new 200 dollar screen today, but its time is limited due to the CCFL lifespan.
@@awesomeferret They can be replaced if there is another monitor like that that has another issue entirely. But considering it's apple not gonna be easy getting even a broken one for cheap
@@aleksandersats9577 although, since it's LG it's possible (the 30 inch panels used in the aluminum CCFL 1440p Cinema Displays that were used in other products). Apple unusually uses off the shelf displays in their monitors, remember (I wouldn't be surprised if this has changed in the past few years though).
Congratulations and thank you, Sir! Your video helped me somehow to have encouragement to try this on one of my CCFL monitors I got from junkshop, if ever their CCFL soon fail. Greetings from Philippines! ^_^
@@sophiestabilitron3771 Dear Sophie, of course high CRI are recommended, but they are more expensive. I think you should consider how much money saving this monitor is really worth, and go for expensive of cheap LEDs. Anyway, work calmly and patiently, because it's very easy to break the LCD panel.
@@Racov Thank you for the advice about LEDs and handling panels with care. This will be my first time dealing with panels. I also think of the economic implications too, since some Chinese LEDs starting to sell here like hot cakes due to economic issues within the country of manufacturing. I hope great success in LCD and LED repair service and also help some customers and friends in my community who asked me if I can repair their humble LCD and LED units.
You should use double sided thermal conductive tape or at least superglue. These leds run way too hot and don't have aluminium pcb. Shimming the COF can reduce the lines. Just put some paper under the metal frame where the lines are.
The craftmanship is excellent, yet I would not do this in any circumstance. Most quality CCFL displays from 2008-2012 are wide gamut, with often up to 100% AdobeRGB coverage. The peaks in the CCFL spectrum align nicely with the filters of the subpixels. With white LED not so much. A generic blue-with-yellow-phosphor LED has a crappy color rendition index, and if the yellow peak will be bad at illuminating the red and green subpixel filters. Hence the bluish image, as only the blue peak will align with the blue subpixels, and red and green are probably only delivering 50% of their previous brightness.
Those green stripes on one of the monitors are probably from missing contact in data ribbon. This ribbon is going from T-Con to the screen. 12:59 T-Con is that green PCB.
When I first saw the title I thought, wow that's a huge screen, 24 feet? LOL but you meant 24". So just a heads up ' = foot and " = inches. Great video, and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I recommend getting a set of cheap camera flash gels and gluing strips of orange film to the backlight diffuser. UV glue might work. That way the LED's will become naturally white, preserving the colors. But I don't know if it makes a difference or not compared to software color calibration. Intuitively, it should make a difference. The orange can't be too white or too dark.
My first ccfl to led conversion was on an HP HDX18 and while the result was awesome, the tint on the screen was blueish. Gonna do the same on a Dell Ultrasharp this week, do you thing that Kapton tape which is orange might do the trick, or should i look into flash gels? I thought about Kapton since it's orange and it can stand the heat, plus it's easy to install over the leds.
Hello. I don't know the answer, but if you have a bit of this tape at hand, it would be good to do a test prior to installing. Place the tape over the LED, power up and see how it works.
Great vid! If my monitor working fine - can I just change it to LED with the Aliexpress LEDs? is better CRI affecting the blueyish/yellowish problems? Thanks
Sure you can switch to LED lighting. It is a delicate process, to disassembly the screen, you know. If you can find a better CRI LED strip, you should get the right colors on the monitor, of course. You see, mine is a little bluish...
I have a VA Eizo monitor with 54,795 hours of use, that has a LED backlight. I didn't know modern electronics could last this long. It had a 3y warranty for the panel, and 5y or 30,000h for everything else. I believe the backlight will fail at some point, but who knows, it may last for eternity.
@@sophiestabilitron3771 65468 at the moment. Sometimes there are some analog looking waves in deep shadows. It is currently connected using VGA connector at 1080p in an old embedded system. A light tap on the frame fixes the waves for the day. This monitor is usually on 15h a day, sometimes 24. Let's see how they fail. The backlight is at 20%. This monitor actually looks identical in VGA and DVI. Excellent design. Still free from acoustical noises. I remember the LGs my friend got for the same application. They cost half as much, lasted less than half the hours and were buzzing in less than 80% brightness. The power consumption was 2x or something like that at similar brightness, so they probably cost twice as much in total.
@@aristotle_4532 I do experience it on the Mitsubishi Diamondcrysta Square Monitor that I have... When I connect VGA, there are some "static" analogue waves flowing from down to up the screen. But when I use DVI-D, this waves were not present, a solid picture straight from video card without interference. I just wonder why some VGA connectors had that strange behaviour. Sadly, on electronics, there will be a time when it will fail, just like us humans who need maintenance for self. LG is also good brand, reminded me of Flatron LCDs. Maybe the LG that you mentioned, were using CCFL?
@@sophiestabilitron3771 The vga did not show the problem in the first 63k hours or so. The lg units my friend got were ccfl I think and the power supply was not very good. EIZO are a very good brand. I had two of their 17 inch CRTs that quite after 12 years and an ancient 15 inch somewhere that was working when I replaced it . In any case, my monitor is like a 95yo complaining about getting tired after long walks😁
Yeah, I need to do something like this to an old Dell 19' 1280x1024 LCD monitor. Works fine as a secondary monitor for my online classes documents but the CFL is obviously failing.
Yay you have the same problem as my monitor Stupid dell put wrong capacitor value and use very very cheap capacitor, after 15 years of use the capacitor blew up and the inverter die too The capacitor value should be 2.2 uF but dell put 22uF capcitor Thanks for thw video
I have been for a long time trying to do this to an Acer but mine must be special. I did the connections as in 10:53 but the enable signal (from the video board) rises and lowers two times and then stays low, like if the video board was expecting some kind of response from the power board that doesn't get, maybe some current consumption, tried to fake some consumption in the enable wire (from the video board), doesn't seem to work. The wires that connect the video board with the power board are: Vcc(x2) Gnd(x2) Enable(cut) Brightness Volume Mute. Does somebody know why this might happen?
Im going to change my Viewsonic VG1921WM lamps, they are still functional, but I want to have better contrasts because in dark images it isn't well displayed, I read that changing the CCFL lamps to LED you can have better image Also I saw in your video that the LEDs at the bottom and top you can see every individual led in screen, will that happen with my monitor?
The most important transformation I noticed in my monitors after LED installation, was the change in colour. With cheap LED, the image can get a bit blue-ish. The colour adjustment in the menu didn't solve this. Yes, you could see individual LEDs, but only if you look very close. It doesn't bother me. Remember this is a very tedious work, don't lose patience!
@@Racov I'm going to buy this model LED STRIP UNI DRIVER JIAHE-24-A-540MM-96 LED2835 I think that is the one that everyone uses for these type of replacement
Hello Ivan. Looks like the Enable pin of this module is not connected correctly. When the monitor is turned off, the Enable is connected to Gnd and the light is disabled. On the other hand, with monitor off, the power should also go off, so it's odd that lights stay on. Can you provide more information, like monitor type and where you connected each wire.
12:54 This is so true... if you find yourself frustrated, go punch a pillow and scream for a few minutes. Better to do this than ruin all you hard work!! I've ruined a few perfectly good LCD panels by being impatient and angry...
And what about replacing the backlight with some reflective material so the LCD works with the ambient light. Like the Sun Vision Displays ... is that possible? using somekind of reflective sheet like Mylar or paint a sheet with "white 2.0" paint. (Also removing the top filter of the LCD.)
Hey Maisonier, Sadly, it doesn't work like that. You might be able to see something, but impossible to work with. Sure, there are simple LCDs, monochrome and low resolution, like the ones in some watches and multimeters which work very well. In order to use ambient light, it has to be built like that by the manufacturer. For colour and high resolution LCD, right now the technology can't work without back lighting.
It's been almost a year since you posted this so I don't know if you're checking comments, but I got to ask: 10:48 So, it's GND to GND, DIM to DIM, VIN to +15V, and then you cut ENA in half, connect the «video board side» of ENA to the LED module, and you short the «power board side» of ENA to GND to disable the inverter. Is that correct? I'll probably add a buck converter to run the LEDs at a lower voltage, just in case.
Hello Lisandro. You are absolutely right about the connections. I am not sure about the buck converter... the LED driver is self regulated and can work up to 30V. Do you want it to work with less than 15V? The LED strip is controlled so that you can adjust the brightness, contrast with the monitor's controls, and have dynamic contrast, standby etc. Maybe for less brightness a series resistor (tens of ohms) with LED strip can be enough.
I believe the strips are connected in parallel, by the looks of the PCB. The strip can be cut to fit your screen. There are lines/marks where you can cut, usually every 3 LEDs.
Got a disgusting CCFL monitor bought literally in 2020. The thing's have suddenly a purple tint on the right side of the screen. Could get it fixed with warranty but I have to pay shipping. I might just replace it with LED or another CCFL tube if I ever get the right size
Hi iceberg. I'm sorry, I can't do this, because I never opened a Dell 24' monitor. Every model is different. I'm sure you can fix it, you just need to be patient.
Great video! I am in the process of doing this on a Samsung SyncMaster 2494HS. They seem very similar monitors. It will take some time before I get my LED strips though. To which pins do I connect the yellow wires? The power supply board has these pins: 1 B-DIM 15V GND GND GND 5.2V 5.2V DCR ON/OFF 3.3V LED KEY1 KEY2 GND 14 The inverter board has these pins: PWM_DIM +13V_IN GND3 GND4 FUNC_GND1 +5V +5V_IN A_DIM BL_EN +3.3V LED KEY1 KEY2 FUNC_GND I just want to make sure I don't blow things up :)
Hello. This converter module has 2 yellow wires. Try this, at the power supply board: The one marked ‘ENA’ to ‘ON/OFF’ The one marked ‘DIM’ to ‘B-DIM’. Let me know how it goes
@Viorel Racoviteanu Thanks for your reply! -In a different video I saw someone shorted out the high voltage line by soldering a bridge to the GND pin. Is this not necessary?- -I believe he disabled the high voltage and connected the LED driver silmply to +...V and GND. Yellow wires to the other pins as you mention of course.- -I guess it wouldn't hurt to disable the ON/OFF cable and then solder the ENA cable to it, right?- -Maybe it's not really necessary (EDIT: it is necessary! :) )but I also would like to disable the HV as it is no longer needed and eliminates some risk.- Thank you for your help and video! EDIT1: oops... just rewatched your video and you are also disabling the CCFL inverter :) My bad! I should be able to do it based on your video. Your board even has the same pins as mine. EDIT2: Got it now... 1. Cut the black wire ON/OFF (power board) 2. Black cut wire (power board side) -> GND (pin 14 power board) (this disables the CCFL high voltage converter) 3. Black cut wire (inverter board side) -> ENA (yellow wire LED module) 4. B-DIM (pin 1 power board) -> DIM (yellow wire LED module) 5. 15V (pin 2 power board) -> VIN VCC + (red wire LED module) 6. GND (pin 4 power board) -> VIN VCC - (black wire LED module) I'll give it a try when my LED module arrives... in about a month or so :(
@@I_DONT_SUPPORT_TERRORISTS Yes, it’s a good thing to disable the HV inverter. You save a bit of power at least, and might protect other things. You noticed the picture about what wire to cut and solder, in order to do this.
@@Racov I paused the video to take a good look and see the connections :) Do you have the link from where you've bought the LED strips? I'm looking on Ali but many shops sell strips with small LEDs (i.e. 2835) which is not as bright and durable I believe. Yours look like 5630 or similar LEDs which is good. Yesterday I found these strips for about 5 EUR but forgot to order and today they have gone up in price to 15 EUR! :(
can i will to short the (power board side) of ENA to GND to disable the inverter in any GND of the board?? my board is different (samsung-220m) Is that correct? thanks for your video
Hi mate, great job with that old monitor. I have 2 old HP ZR24W monitors, very low hours, around 6000. Both have developed a dark grey stripe on the left hand side of the screem that only shows up when the monitors heat up. Can I send some pictures with the defect, hope you can point me to the right direction?
Forget about replacing with white LED. The ZR24W has an insane gamut with CCFL, you will ruin it and turn it into a crappy calibrated sRGB display at best.
Hello, after you replaced the capacitors, you connected the cable video, and on the screen there was the message "check signal cable - digital" but you have put the VGA or DVI cable? if the lamps were bad you can't see clearly that OSD message, the message was: no signal from DVI, IMO you did something wrong. To me were just the capacitors bad. At the end of the video, those vertical lines on the right of the screen are caused by problems with those flat cables connected to the screen.
Hey Roby. Believe me, I tried everything before this video. You are right, at first I didn't connect any input signal. I just wanted to show that the screen lights up. It did, but only for few seconds, then it turned off. I measured and replaced all the capacitors, and it performed exactly the same. I wish it was that easy and I didn't have to take the LCD apart, but I am sure the CCFL lamps were as good as dead. For the vertical lines you are also right. Sadly, the heating and everything I tried didn't work.
@@Racov i guess you know there are those kind of tester for lamps, i haven't one, but are useful. unfortunately same symptoms but different components that can break. Watch this video about lines issue th-cam.com/video/S4ccg-Cw6-o/w-d-xo.html and this one about the lamps problem and not simple fix. th-cam.com/video/hU218Frv6sA/w-d-xo.html
In my 2004 HP laptop there are five wires running to the original ccfl inverter board, plainly there is power and ground, and two wires for control of bright to dim, but what is the fith wire? Also the connection to the led board will not fit ?
Hello Christopher. So I understand that the CCFLs of your laptop screen are dead, and you want to replace them with LEDs. This implies, of course, replacing the CCFL inverter with LED driver board. In order to identify which wire is which, I did this: finding power and ground is relatively simple (power should be between 10-30V). For DIM and ENA (control of brightness and ON/OFF), with the inverter removed, I measured each wire and write down the values, both with screen ON (of course, like if there was a screen), and OFF. in ON, DIM should be around 3V, ENA = 0V, in OFF DIM aprox. 5V, ENA > 2V. That's all you need. As for the positioning of the module, I know the laptop is a tight place... You can extend the wires, if that helps. Be prepared to have a hard time taking the screen apart and back . Please let me know how it worked out.
@@Racov It seems I will have to remove the connector from the invertor board Curent IN side . Then some how solder to it the wires from the 4 wires from the lcd
10:46 What's going on in there? After thinking about it for 10 minutea *I think* I get it. Was the enable wire cut in the middle? Then one half (from the video board) was connected to the LED driver and the other half (from the power board) was connected to GND. Am I correct?
@@Racov Thanks. I'll see if it works when I get the remaining parts tomorrow. My monitor only has up to 5.2V on the power board (unknown current rating so I can't boost it either) and I'll have to power the backlight externally. I'm still undecided whether I should power the LED strips with a PCIE/Molex cable connected to my PC's PSU or from an external power brick. Either one gives me 12V and enough Watts. If anyone's wondering how much wattage you need to power the backlight externally and you don't have a decent CC CV power supply, you can measure it on a cut piece of the LED strip (if you have it). Remember that the current increases with temperature and that they're in series and in parallel at the same time. Mine (with Chinese 5630 LED's) uses up to 50mA per each LED triplet at the LED driver's max voltage (9.6V). Weird considering the fact that they're normally rated for 150mA. I powered a cut piece with my cheapo lab power supply: a 15W CC/CV boost/buck module connected to a powerbank and an ammeter. An average monitor would require about 20W at max brightness. Some observations: those LED's light up slightly even if you just connect a cable to them (acting as an RF antenna). While they're super bright at 100mA, they're starting to be bright at as low as 8mA.
@@Krzeszny95 I'd go with a separate power brick. It takes up an extra outlet, but gives you some independence. I can't measure the current anymore, but at the end of the video I made a power comparison with another original monitor. The one with LED replacement takes about 18W, so, in total, at 12V, 2A should be enough.
@@Racov Yup, in my case it's about 18W but there's one problem. Power bricks can have efficiency as low as 60%. Also, the power board has SENSE+ and SENSE- pins. Maybe you know if that's useful?
Salut Catalin. Ma feresc sa dau vreun sfat, fiindcă nu am desfăcut niciun ecran de televizor pana acum. Nu cred ca e mai complicat si gasesti tutoriale bune. Pot sa spun sa ai grijă sa alegi LED-uri cu un CRI bun, altfel albul bate ușor in albastru. Categoric trebuie încercat. Succes.
Hi Saul. In order to identify which wire is which, I did this: finding power and ground is relatively simple (power should be between 10-30V). For DIM and ENA (control of brightness and ON/OFF), with the inverter removed, I measured each wire and write down the values, both with screen ON (of course, like if there was a screen), and OFF. in ON, DIM should be around 3V, ENA = 0V, in OFF DIM aprox. 5V, ENA > 2V. That's all you need.
EN should be connected to the respective (ENABLE) pin of the power supply/inverter. If you can't find this pin, you can apply 5 - 12V to turn on the LED strip, but the monitor will never be able to enter SLEEP mode.
Yes, I tried to fix the capacitors first, but this didn't fix the back-light. If you go at minute 8, you'll see part 2, changing the lamps with LEDs, and installing the driver.
Salut Dragos. Sunt convins ca e posibil. Nu am facut inlocuire de CCFL la televizoare, dar am văzut multe tutoriale pe youtube. Incearcă, nu ai e pirede. Așa cum am spus la final, în cazul acestor LEDuri, culoarea s-a dus putin spre albastru. Cauta ceva numit High CRI LED Strip. Anunță-ma cum a ieșit.
@@Racov am văzut că se leagă serii de 7-8 leduri de 3v pe tensiunea de 24 de la sursă , și mai multe serii in paralel , dar reglajul luminozității nu am idee cum se poate face
Televizorul tău are tuburi CCFL si vrei sa le înlocuiești cu LED? Dacă da, atunci îți trebuie, ca în filmul meu, o sursa specială care se conectează în circuitul televizorului. Nu am idee cum, depinde de fiecare model. Și baghete LED compatibile. Dacă televizorul are iluminare LED, atunci trebuie doar sa cauți baghetele LED specifice lui. De obicei ele se alimentează undeva la 60V. Ce spui tu cu serie - paralel, nu mi se pare în regulă.
I really appreciate this video, i like how you just filmed your process of figuring it all out. Also, the surprise that the physical deconstruction was harder than the electronics. I'm about to replace the cfls on a monitor myself, this is a real confidence booster.
Congratulations ! You make things very clear as it is not obvious to disable the onboard inverter. Thank you !
It's a good idea but the explanation isn't great. I still can't figure out how to disable the onboard inverter.
@@Krzeszny95 the answer at 10'49'' th-cam.com/video/jMh-PCfehQI/w-d-xo.html
@@ericpierard8351 I know but it's not clear.
It should be "the remaining end (FROM power board)"
By the way, how can I check if the inverter is disabled? I don't know how to measure it.
i managed to recover my tv / monitor samsung t220m with your help, thank you very much.
Hi Andre.
I am very glad to hear this.
Congratulations man!
Great job. I plan on doing something similar to my monitor as I had the same issue for years, but I just lower the brightness and after an hour I just crank it back up. I have to make sure to crank it back down so I don't have to use a flashlight to decrease it again. Also the bluish tint can be fixed by lowering the blue leaves on the monitor menu or with an PC app or color profile
Cool. A job well done, Sir.
Wow,you got a very nice designed and highly costing of money monitor for repairing to save some money also saving a lot these repairable stuffs out of those landfills..
I bought 12 of these from a business auction for 10 dollars a piece. Low number of hours on most of them too.
Gave away most to friends and family over time.
Great! Informative with testing capacitors too!
Hi !
Fantastic video, really, congratulations.
Just wanted to say well done, I admire your patience. I changed the backlight on a 25 inch screen a few years ago, and the CCFLs of a 40 inch TV a few month ago (this was the most challenging fix I ever did). I know the struggle. Everytime you disassemble a LCD Panel you never know if you're going to break eveything. And now I've got to do it all over again with 19inch Acer screen. I'm not looking forward to this
Oh boy.... And I am using 2 really old 1080p monitors from 2006. One of them is at Max brightness and the other is half. I think one of the CFLs in there will die soon. I won't be looking forward for that.. but if it comes I have to do it because these 2 old monitors I have, they are amazing for what they are
@@aleksandersats9577 I have similar concerns with my 1440p IPS Apple Cinema Display from the same era. Better looking than a brand new 200 dollar screen today, but its time is limited due to the CCFL lifespan.
@@awesomeferret They can be replaced if there is another monitor like that that has another issue entirely. But considering it's apple not gonna be easy getting even a broken one for cheap
@@aleksandersats9577 although, since it's LG it's possible (the 30 inch panels used in the aluminum CCFL 1440p Cinema Displays that were used in other products). Apple unusually uses off the shelf displays in their monitors, remember (I wouldn't be surprised if this has changed in the past few years though).
@@aleksandersats9577 What company is your monitor and what is its model number?
thanks for the detailed fix, helped me did mine
Congratulations and thank you, Sir! Your video helped me somehow to have encouragement to try this on one of my CCFL monitors I got from junkshop, if ever their CCFL soon fail. Greetings from Philippines! ^_^
Thank you very much
@@Racov Multumesc! ^_^ I want also to ask, Sir. Why best LED for replacement was, High CRI type?
@@sophiestabilitron3771 Dear Sophie, of course high CRI are recommended, but they are more expensive. I think you should consider how much money saving this monitor is really worth, and go for expensive of cheap LEDs. Anyway, work calmly and patiently, because it's very easy to break the LCD panel.
@@Racov Thank you for the advice about LEDs and handling panels with care. This will be my first time dealing with panels. I also think of the economic implications too, since some Chinese LEDs starting to sell here like hot cakes due to economic issues within the country of manufacturing. I hope great success in LCD and LED repair service and also help some customers and friends in my community who asked me if I can repair their humble LCD and LED units.
Great video.
Reallyyyyy nice video bro! Congratsss
"YES! YOU BASTARD!" I think that sentiment resonates with every tech and engineer around the world 😂. Great video
Love ur work ethic bro keep it up
Well done. Graphics software can adjust the colour hue should you wish to warm the image slightly.
Change the color temperature to get near true color.
You should use double sided thermal conductive tape or at least superglue. These leds run way too hot and don't have aluminium pcb.
Shimming the COF can reduce the lines. Just put some paper under the metal frame where the lines are.
The craftmanship is excellent, yet I would not do this in any circumstance. Most quality CCFL displays from 2008-2012 are wide gamut, with often up to 100% AdobeRGB coverage. The peaks in the CCFL spectrum align nicely with the filters of the subpixels. With white LED not so much. A generic blue-with-yellow-phosphor LED has a crappy color rendition index, and if the yellow peak will be bad at illuminating the red and green subpixel filters. Hence the bluish image, as only the blue peak will align with the blue subpixels, and red and green are probably only delivering 50% of their previous brightness.
You are a hero!
Those green stripes on one of the monitors are probably from missing contact in data ribbon.
This ribbon is going from T-Con to the screen. 12:59 T-Con is that green PCB.
Parabéns pelo vídeo, explicativo.👏👏👏✍✍✍👍👍👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
When I first saw the title I thought, wow that's a huge screen, 24 feet? LOL but you meant 24". So just a heads up ' = foot and " = inches. Great video, and thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Thank you Dan.
I appreciate your input.
I've corrected the title and the video thumbnail.
...that would have been a really big screen indeed :D
Nice!
I recommend getting a set of cheap camera flash gels and gluing strips of orange film to the backlight diffuser. UV glue might work. That way the LED's will become naturally white, preserving the colors. But I don't know if it makes a difference or not compared to software color calibration. Intuitively, it should make a difference. The orange can't be too white or too dark.
My first ccfl to led conversion was on an HP HDX18 and while the result was awesome, the tint on the screen was blueish. Gonna do the same on a Dell Ultrasharp this week, do you thing that Kapton tape which is orange might do the trick, or should i look into flash gels? I thought about Kapton since it's orange and it can stand the heat, plus it's easy to install over the leds.
Hello.
I don't know the answer, but if you have a bit of this tape at hand, it would be good to do a test prior to installing. Place the tape over the LED, power up and see how it works.
@@AmbassadorKoshNaranek what model ultrasharp? interested in doing the same to a u2711 i got for cheap.
Great vid! If my monitor working fine - can I just change it to LED with the Aliexpress LEDs? is better CRI affecting the blueyish/yellowish problems? Thanks
Sure you can switch to LED lighting. It is a delicate process, to disassembly the screen, you know. If you can find a better CRI LED strip, you should get the right colors on the monitor, of course. You see, mine is a little bluish...
I have a VA Eizo monitor with 54,795 hours of use, that has a LED backlight. I didn't know modern electronics could last this long. It had a 3y warranty for the panel, and 5y or 30,000h for everything else. I believe the backlight will fail at some point, but who knows, it may last for eternity.
Operating it at 50% brightness or lower would help extend life of LEDs...
@@sophiestabilitron3771 65468 at the moment. Sometimes there are some analog looking waves in deep shadows. It is currently connected using VGA connector at 1080p in an old embedded system. A light tap on the frame fixes the waves for the day. This monitor is usually on 15h a day, sometimes 24. Let's see how they fail. The backlight is at 20%. This monitor actually looks identical in VGA and DVI. Excellent design. Still free from acoustical noises. I remember the LGs my friend got for the same application. They cost half as much, lasted less than half the hours and were buzzing in less than 80% brightness. The power consumption was 2x or something like that at similar brightness, so they probably cost twice as much in total.
@@aristotle_4532 I do experience it on the Mitsubishi Diamondcrysta Square Monitor that I have... When I connect VGA, there are some "static" analogue waves flowing from down to up the screen. But when I use DVI-D, this waves were not present, a solid picture straight from video card without interference. I just wonder why some VGA connectors had that strange behaviour. Sadly, on electronics, there will be a time when it will fail, just like us humans who need maintenance for self. LG is also good brand, reminded me of Flatron LCDs. Maybe the LG that you mentioned, were using CCFL?
@@sophiestabilitron3771 The vga did not show the problem in the first 63k hours or so. The lg units my friend got were ccfl I think and the power supply was not very good. EIZO are a very good brand. I had two of their 17 inch CRTs that quite after 12 years and an ancient 15 inch somewhere that was working when I replaced it . In any case, my monitor is like a 95yo complaining about getting tired after long walks😁
Yeah, I need to do something like this to an old Dell 19' 1280x1024 LCD monitor. Works fine as a secondary monitor for my online classes documents but the CFL is obviously failing.
Yay you have the same problem as my monitor
Stupid dell put wrong capacitor value and use very very cheap capacitor, after 15 years of use the capacitor blew up and the inverter die too
The capacitor value should be 2.2 uF but dell put 22uF capcitor
Thanks for thw video
It looks like I need to clean my room before I try to repair my monitor :)
I have been for a long time trying to do this to an Acer but mine must be special. I did the connections as in 10:53 but the enable signal (from the video board) rises and lowers two times and then stays low, like if the video board was expecting some kind of response from the power board that doesn't get, maybe some current consumption, tried to fake some consumption in the enable wire (from the video board), doesn't seem to work. The wires that connect the video board with the power board are: Vcc(x2) Gnd(x2) Enable(cut) Brightness Volume Mute. Does somebody know why this might happen?
Im going to change my Viewsonic VG1921WM lamps, they are still functional, but I want to have better contrasts because in dark images it isn't well displayed, I read that changing the CCFL lamps to LED you can have better image
Also I saw in your video that the LEDs at the bottom and top you can see every individual led in screen, will that happen with my monitor?
The most important transformation I noticed in my monitors after LED installation, was the change in colour. With cheap LED, the image can get a bit blue-ish. The colour adjustment in the menu didn't solve this.
Yes, you could see individual LEDs, but only if you look very close. It doesn't bother me.
Remember this is a very tedious work, don't lose patience!
@@Racov I'm going to buy this model
LED STRIP UNI DRIVER JIAHE-24-A-540MM-96 LED2835
I think that is the one that everyone uses for these type of replacement
thanks! I did it yesterday, worked good but the problem is, when i turn the display off the leds are burning.
What error did i make?
Hello Ivan.
Looks like the Enable pin of this module is not connected correctly. When the monitor is turned off, the Enable is connected to Gnd and the light is disabled. On the other hand, with monitor off, the power should also go off, so it's odd that lights stay on.
Can you provide more information, like monitor type and where you connected each wire.
12:54 This is so true... if you find yourself frustrated, go punch a pillow and scream for a few minutes.
Better to do this than ruin all you hard work!! I've ruined a few perfectly good LCD panels by being impatient and angry...
And what about replacing the backlight with some reflective material so the LCD works with the ambient light. Like the Sun Vision Displays ... is that possible? using somekind of reflective sheet like Mylar or paint a sheet with "white 2.0" paint. (Also removing the top filter of the LCD.)
Hey Maisonier,
Sadly, it doesn't work like that. You might be able to see something, but impossible to work with.
Sure, there are simple LCDs, monochrome and low resolution, like the ones in some watches and multimeters which work very well. In order to use ambient light, it has to be built like that by the manufacturer.
For colour and high resolution LCD, right now the technology can't work without back lighting.
It's been almost a year since you posted this so I don't know if you're checking comments, but I got to ask:
10:48
So, it's GND to GND, DIM to DIM, VIN to +15V, and then you cut ENA in half, connect the «video board side» of ENA to the LED module, and you short the «power board side» of ENA to GND to disable the inverter. Is that correct?
I'll probably add a buck converter to run the LEDs at a lower voltage, just in case.
Hello Lisandro.
You are absolutely right about the connections.
I am not sure about the buck converter... the LED driver is self regulated and can work up to 30V. Do you want it to work with less than 15V? The LED strip is controlled so that you can adjust the brightness, contrast with the monitor's controls, and have dynamic contrast, standby etc.
Maybe for less brightness a series resistor (tens of ohms) with LED strip can be enough.
Are led strip replacement connected in series or parallel, will it work when excess length was cut ? Thanks for a helpful video anyway!
I believe the strips are connected in parallel, by the looks of the PCB. The strip can be cut to fit your screen. There are lines/marks where you can cut, usually every 3 LEDs.
Thank you very much, God Bless!
Hi, i need backlight 7720, 64leds , 6pin, 527mm. Where Can i get it?
Got a disgusting CCFL monitor bought literally in 2020. The thing's have suddenly a purple tint on the right side of the screen. Could get it fixed with warranty but I have to pay shipping. I might just replace it with LED or another CCFL tube if I ever get the right size
my dell 24" led monitor has some backlight leds not glowing. can you please post a tutorial, on how to open the panel safely and replace those ?
Hi iceberg.
I'm sorry, I can't do this, because I never opened a Dell 24' monitor.
Every model is different. I'm sure you can fix it, you just need to be patient.
Great video!
I am in the process of doing this on a Samsung SyncMaster 2494HS. They seem very similar monitors.
It will take some time before I get my LED strips though.
To which pins do I connect the yellow wires?
The power supply board has these pins:
1
B-DIM
15V
GND
GND
GND
5.2V
5.2V
DCR
ON/OFF
3.3V
LED
KEY1
KEY2
GND
14
The inverter board has these pins:
PWM_DIM
+13V_IN
GND3
GND4
FUNC_GND1
+5V
+5V_IN
A_DIM
BL_EN
+3.3V
LED
KEY1
KEY2
FUNC_GND
I just want to make sure I don't blow things up :)
Hello.
This converter module has 2 yellow wires.
Try this, at the power supply board:
The one marked ‘ENA’ to ‘ON/OFF’
The one marked ‘DIM’ to ‘B-DIM’.
Let me know how it goes
@Viorel Racoviteanu Thanks for your reply!
-In a different video I saw someone shorted out the high voltage line by soldering a bridge to the GND pin. Is this not necessary?-
-I believe he disabled the high voltage and connected the LED driver silmply to +...V and GND. Yellow wires to the other pins as you mention of course.-
-I guess it wouldn't hurt to disable the ON/OFF cable and then solder the ENA cable to it, right?-
-Maybe it's not really necessary (EDIT: it is necessary! :) )but I also would like to disable the HV as it is no longer needed and eliminates some risk.-
Thank you for your help and video!
EDIT1: oops... just rewatched your video and you are also disabling the CCFL inverter :) My bad!
I should be able to do it based on your video. Your board even has the same pins as mine.
EDIT2: Got it now...
1. Cut the black wire ON/OFF (power board)
2. Black cut wire (power board side) -> GND (pin 14 power board) (this disables the CCFL high voltage converter)
3. Black cut wire (inverter board side) -> ENA (yellow wire LED module)
4. B-DIM (pin 1 power board) -> DIM (yellow wire LED module)
5. 15V (pin 2 power board) -> VIN VCC + (red wire LED module)
6. GND (pin 4 power board) -> VIN VCC - (black wire LED module)
I'll give it a try when my LED module arrives... in about a month or so :(
@@I_DONT_SUPPORT_TERRORISTS Yes, it’s a good thing to disable the HV inverter. You save a bit of power at least, and might protect other things. You noticed the picture about what wire to cut and solder, in order to do this.
@@Racov I paused the video to take a good look and see the connections :)
Do you have the link from where you've bought the LED strips?
I'm looking on Ali but many shops sell strips with small LEDs (i.e. 2835) which is not as bright and durable I believe. Yours look like 5630 or similar LEDs which is good.
Yesterday I found these strips for about 5 EUR but forgot to order and today they have gone up in price to 15 EUR! :(
@@I_DONT_SUPPORT_TERRORISTS this the store where I bought the item from.
a.aliexpress.com/_m0hqoIA
Sadly, it’s not on sale anymore.
can i will to short the (power board side) of ENA to GND to disable the inverter in any GND of the board?? my board is different (samsung-220m) Is that correct? thanks for your video
Hello Andre
Yes, you can use any GND.
Hi mate, great job with that old monitor. I have 2 old HP ZR24W monitors, very low hours, around 6000. Both have developed a dark grey stripe on the left hand side of the screem that only shows up when the monitors heat up. Can I send some pictures with the defect, hope you can point me to the right direction?
sure.
yo3rak@gmail.com
Forget about replacing with white LED. The ZR24W has an insane gamut with CCFL, you will ruin it and turn it into a crappy calibrated sRGB display at best.
Hello, after you replaced the capacitors, you connected the cable video, and on the screen there was the message "check signal cable - digital" but you have put the VGA or DVI cable? if the lamps were bad you can't see clearly that OSD message, the message was: no signal from DVI, IMO you did something wrong. To me were just the capacitors bad. At the end of the video, those vertical lines on the right of the screen are caused by problems with those flat cables connected to the screen.
Hey Roby.
Believe me, I tried everything before this video. You are right, at first I didn't connect any input signal. I just wanted to show that the screen lights up. It did, but only for few seconds, then it turned off. I measured and replaced all the capacitors, and it performed exactly the same. I wish it was that easy and I didn't have to take the LCD apart, but I am sure the CCFL lamps were as good as dead.
For the vertical lines you are also right. Sadly, the heating and everything I tried didn't work.
@@Racov i guess you know there are those kind of tester for lamps, i haven't one, but are useful.
unfortunately same symptoms but different components that can break. Watch this video about lines issue th-cam.com/video/S4ccg-Cw6-o/w-d-xo.html and this one about the lamps problem and not simple fix. th-cam.com/video/hU218Frv6sA/w-d-xo.html
In my 2004 HP laptop there are five wires running to the original ccfl inverter board, plainly there is power and ground, and two wires for control of bright to dim, but what is the fith wire? Also the connection to the led board will not fit ?
Hello Christopher.
So I understand that the CCFLs of your laptop screen are dead, and you want to replace them with LEDs. This implies, of course, replacing the CCFL inverter with LED driver board. In order to identify which wire is which, I did this: finding power and ground is relatively simple (power should be between 10-30V). For DIM and ENA (control of brightness and ON/OFF), with the inverter removed, I measured each wire and write down the values, both with screen ON (of course, like if there was a screen), and OFF. in ON, DIM should be around 3V, ENA = 0V, in OFF DIM aprox. 5V, ENA > 2V. That's all you need.
As for the positioning of the module, I know the laptop is a tight place... You can extend the wires, if that helps.
Be prepared to have a hard time taking the screen apart and back .
Please let me know how it worked out.
@@Racov It seems I will have to remove the connector from the invertor board Curent IN side . Then some how solder to it the wires from the 4 wires from the lcd
@@TheShamwari Yes. I guess there is no way around this.
Are those led driver uses PWM for control brightness? Or not?
It has a separate wire which controls the brightness with different voltage levels.
10:46 What's going on in there?
After thinking about it for 10 minutea *I think* I get it. Was the enable wire cut in the middle?
Then one half (from the video board) was connected to the LED driver and the other half (from the power board) was connected to GND. Am I correct?
Yes. This disables the inverter on the board, to save some power.
@@Racov Thanks. I'll see if it works when I get the remaining parts tomorrow. My monitor only has up to 5.2V on the power board (unknown current rating so I can't boost it either) and I'll have to power the backlight externally.
I'm still undecided whether I should power the LED strips with a PCIE/Molex cable connected to my PC's PSU or from an external power brick. Either one gives me 12V and enough Watts.
If anyone's wondering how much wattage you need to power the backlight externally and you don't have a decent CC CV power supply, you can measure it on a cut piece of the LED strip (if you have it). Remember that the current increases with temperature and that they're in series and in parallel at the same time.
Mine (with Chinese 5630 LED's) uses up to 50mA per each LED triplet at the LED driver's max voltage (9.6V). Weird considering the fact that they're normally rated for 150mA.
I powered a cut piece with my cheapo lab power supply: a 15W CC/CV boost/buck module connected to a powerbank and an ammeter. An average monitor would require about 20W at max brightness.
Some observations: those LED's light up slightly even if you just connect a cable to them (acting as an RF antenna). While they're super bright at 100mA, they're starting to be bright at as low as 8mA.
@@Krzeszny95 I'd go with a separate power brick. It takes up an extra outlet, but gives you some independence. I can't measure the current anymore, but at the end of the video I made a power comparison with another original monitor. The one with LED replacement takes about 18W, so, in total, at 12V, 2A should be enough.
@@Racov Yup, in my case it's about 18W but there's one problem. Power bricks can have efficiency as low as 60%.
Also, the power board has SENSE+ and SENSE- pins. Maybe you know if that's useful?
@@Krzeszny95 I don't know, but don't worry about it. All you need is Enable and Dim (brightness)
Salut foarte bun video pt un tv de 40 de inchi ce varianta mă sfătuiești?
Salut Catalin.
Ma feresc sa dau vreun sfat, fiindcă nu am desfăcut niciun ecran de televizor pana acum. Nu cred ca e mai complicat si gasesti tutoriale bune. Pot sa spun sa ai grijă sa alegi LED-uri cu un CRI bun, altfel albul bate ușor in albastru. Categoric trebuie încercat.
Succes.
@@Racov ok mersi frumos de răspuns seara frumoasa
My board has 14 pins between the power supply and the other motherboard. How do I measure the values for each pin with a multimeter?
Hi Saul.
In order to identify which wire is which, I did this: finding power and ground is relatively simple (power should be between 10-30V). For DIM and ENA (control of brightness and ON/OFF), with the inverter removed, I measured each wire and write down the values, both with screen ON (of course, like if there was a screen), and OFF. in ON, DIM should be around 3V, ENA = 0V, in OFF DIM aprox. 5V, ENA > 2V. That's all you need.
@@Racov thank you very much for your reply and explanation. hopefully i'm able to figure everything out :)
can anybody say if i can shorten them, for a smaller lcd??
Do you need LCD TV backlight belt?Our manufacturer can provide you with a large number of products.
estoy instlando a una ALL IN ONE ACER DE 24", donde conecto el EN?
EN should be connected to the respective (ENABLE) pin of the power supply/inverter. If you can't find this pin, you can apply 5 - 12V to turn on the LED strip, but the monitor will never be able to enter SLEEP mode.
Same power output for fluorescent lamps and leds? Doesn't it burn the LED's? Can I just pull them out and put LED's?
Hey zeus.
You can't do this.
You have to use the LED driver.
@@Racov Sorry for being a dumb but I need to ask: You replaced the capacitors because they were dead? I couldn't find driver thing in the video.
Yes, I tried to fix the capacitors first, but this didn't fix the back-light.
If you go at minute 8, you'll see part 2, changing the lamps with LEDs, and installing the driver.
@@Racov After 7:46 you show the driver to purchase my mistake.
pentru tv akay LTA216AT01 e posibil? multam pt video. m-am abonat
Salut Dragos. Sunt convins ca e posibil. Nu am facut inlocuire de CCFL la televizoare, dar am văzut multe tutoriale pe youtube. Incearcă, nu ai e pirede. Așa cum am spus la final, în cazul acestor LEDuri, culoarea s-a dus putin spre albastru. Cauta ceva numit High CRI LED Strip. Anunță-ma cum a ieșit.
@@Racov ok. Multumesc pt raspuns
What voltage on dimming and on/off?
The Dimming works from 0 to around 5V. More voltaje, more dimmnig.
Enable - also 5V.
That is scary. I don't want to touch those CCFL, apparently they contain mercury
The bluish is caused due to non uv filter diffuser
This makes perfect sense.
Buying a replacement monitor would be my choice. What a lot of work on a broken monitor. Good job though 👍🏻
great job.
vy73
de dh0nat
Procedura e aceeași și pentru un tv ?
Salutare.
Nu as putea sa spun.
Sfatul meu e sa cauți un tutorial pentru televizorul tău, sau ceva asemănător. Principiul e același.
@@Racov am văzut că se leagă serii de 7-8 leduri de 3v pe tensiunea de 24 de la sursă , și mai multe serii in paralel , dar reglajul luminozității nu am idee cum se poate face
Televizorul tău are tuburi CCFL si vrei sa le înlocuiești cu LED?
Dacă da, atunci îți trebuie, ca în filmul meu, o sursa specială care se conectează în circuitul televizorului. Nu am idee cum, depinde de fiecare model. Și baghete LED compatibile.
Dacă televizorul are iluminare LED, atunci trebuie doar sa cauți baghetele LED specifice lui. De obicei ele se alimentează undeva la 60V.
Ce spui tu cu serie - paralel, nu mi se pare în regulă.
repiar price
Why in the world would you down grade to nasty blue light LEDs that look horrible and destroy your eyes?
Good Sum Yung joke.
fez merda, kkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkk