⬇️Things used in this video: 1. Anti-Seize Lubrication: amzn.to/2CG2P17 2. Disposable Gloves: amzn.to/2zSRuxO 3. Shop Towels: amzn.to/2jGDfkA 4. Flashlight: amzn.to/2kwtiu3 5. Common Sense 6. Full HD Camera: amzn.to/2AvoEk7 7. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2i2sKYz 8. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 9. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer 👉Follow me on Instagram for the latest news, funnies, and exclusive info / pics: goo.gl/ohy2cA
Scotty Kilmer my experience is that when you take a terminal lead off your battery MAKE SURE IT IS THE NEGATIVE ONE.... If you take the POSITIVE one off and it touches the body or metal it will ARK OUT and you could do some DAMAGE.
The "W" in the API service certification doesn't stand for weight. It stands for winterized. Other than that you've given very sound advice for oil selection.
Scotty Kilmer hi scott, just a quick one I had my car rebuilt 3 years ago. Since then it's only done 3000 ml. On changing oil and filter the garage has done the filter up so tight I can't get it off. The strap wrench just spins round without turning the filter. Please advise. Tried everything I know can't shift it even 1 inch. I need to route this up their arsed. It's an audi a3 1.6 sport 1998 vintage old style.
Tammy McGinnis the easy way is to take it to more than one mechanic for a quote and I don't mean to be an ass but take a man with you who is car savvy. My girlfriend has been ripped off by mechanics in the past because some shady mechanics take advantage of ladies who may not know too much about cars. Failing that ask your friends if they know an honest mechanic and go there for a quote. All the best.
on all modern cars they now suggest to never use anti sieze as the new plugs are all plated with metal to prevent them sticking, just read that last week in motor magazine.
worst case it acts as insulation making the spark weak. and in another scenario, a chemical reaction can happen making the two metals destroy each other with the lube the source.
darthvader4hire I didn't think about the chemical reaction possibilities, I guess I was just thinking of the really old can of International harvester antisieze that I have that has aluminum and copper in it and would therefore be fine with aluminum heads, or cast iron. But you do bring up a great point about the corrosion that could be caused by incompatible types of antisieze. Thanks.
Tip: Some spark plugs specifically (NGK) tell you not to use anti-seize as this can allow you to over-torque your plugs by 20%. Plus they also use a special plating on the threads that inhibit corrosion.
Good tip on installing new spark plugs, especially in overhead cam engines: push a rubber hose (3/8-inch ID fuel hose will work) down over the porcelain portion of the plug, lower the plug down into the plug hole using the hose and twist it to begin threading the plug into place. It's a good way to start tightening the plug without cross-threading it in the head. Pull off the hose once the plug has been twisted into place and finish tightening it with a spark plug socket. Using this method, I've never cross-threaded a plug hole.
Scotty gives good advice. Back in the '80's, I had the oil filter gasket come off and stick to the block, even though I had always rubbed a film of clean oil on the gasket, when new. I saw oil spilling out upon starting the engine, and saw what happened, and learned right then to always look for the old gasket on the old filter! My son saw it happen to him once too! DIY'ers, be alert to this! Anti-seize on plugs is excellent too, especially in aluminum heads! Can't hurt in cast iron heads, either! Don't risk electrical trouble, disconnect the negative battery terminal! And always use the correct oil viscosity, for your oil. Good advice, Scotty!
Great vid Scotty! I've been an amateur wrencher for just about 30 years myself! A few simple things can save you a TON of grief! Some i've been taught; others I learned the hard way... Keep up the great work!
Very good advice I remember the first time I did it about 30 years ago..Also people that buy their oil and filter From Walmart you Gotta make sure you get the right one .people switch oil filters in the box for some reason .I see that all the time with my customers that like to bring their own oil and filter.
Never happened to me in 30 years with the rubber seal coming off. Good tip though. With battery leads there is a right way of taking the leads off and then on again for those that don't know. Take off the negative first then the positive lead when taking the battery off and when putting it back on again its positive first then the negative. Think of it like this,its a negative experience when taking it off because you are starting the job and you don't like work,so negative first. But when you have finished the job its a positive experience and your feeling good,so positive first.
1066gaz You're right. You might also explain why, so people can figure it out when they can't remember the rule, or correct others who don't know what they're taking about. The reason is like this: If you're busy loosening the positive terminal while the negative is still on the battery, and you slip, causing the spanner to contact both the positive terminal and some metal part of the car, you'll short the battery out, potentially making it explode, destroying the thing you touch, welding the spanner to the battery and car, or if your ring forms part of the short circuit, it can burn you very badly because these batteries can provide huge currents. On the other hand, if you're loosening the negative terminal and the spanner slips, you're safe because the metal car is already connected to the terminal, and all the positive side is insulated in plastic or rubber, meaning you can't touch that with the spanner.
i take off whichever side is easiest. if the positive side then i keep my hand between the wrench and any metal that can possibly ground it. i am a contrarian though and for 99.99% of the people removing the negative is best.
It's a good idea to fill the filter with oil to saturate the filter media. you can dump out the excess when filling the crankcase. This lessens the time it takes to build up oil pressure to the bearings and hence less engine wear.
The Disconnect battery issue actually happened to me at a campground in Vermont. I shorted out the actual part you show in the video. This short blew out the Fusible link on the battery. I drove around and around, no luck on a Sunday finding parts. Lol. I ended up pulling the clear plastic cover off the fusible link, unwrapping the metal strips and folding them tightly back together. It got me back to my apartment in Troy ny at that time. So funny to me to see you mention this. People, pay attention, Scotty is warning you of failures that actually happen.
Great stuff Scotty. After all these years of working on my car. I never knew that about changing spark plugs out on a cold engine. But it makes sense. So be it from now on.
Yep, I accidentally double gasketed an oil filter on a Mercury Cougar. Cranked it up and heard a weird noise look under the car and there's the whole jug of oil I just put in it xD
The rubber ring very seldom sticks to the engine block if it's does it's because somebody didn't put oil on the rubber first to the other guys question what is a 302 Windsor there is no windsor it's a 351 Windsor it was made in Windsor Canada versus a 351 Cleveland that was made in Cleveland
Only use a premium filter with a check valve in it that holds the oil pressure up in the engine.!!!!!! Or you will have dry start up every time good oil filters are junk anymore. Always match the rubber o-ring up with the new rubber o-ring make sure their exact a lot of oil filters nowadays have smaller O-rings they don't match up or they're sitting in a new area just barely ceiling with a lot of oxidation
I had the old oil filter gasket come off recently for the first time. I knew something was wrong when the new oil filter didn't seem to be getting tight. One time I couldn't get the spark plugs out. Then I realized I had tighten them when the engine was hot. After starting the car and letting the engine get hot the spark plugs came out with little effort.
Very good advice Scotty. Years ago, I did an oil change on my motorcycle. I didn't spill one drop of oil. When I started the bike, it was like a high pressure spray of oil from between the old ring that stuck to the engine and the new ring on the new oil filter. What a mess! Like you said, in a car you may not notice the problem until its too late. You have a really great channel! Keep up the good work.
So true about that disabling the battery part Scotty! One time I was backyard fixing one of the brake lights on my Lexus, I cut up the wires and wired in a new socket for the bulb from an old Chevy (it was all I had at the time) and I accidentally wired up the new light wrong. Ended up blowing the brake lamp failure sensor.... Luckily I had a spare car to take it off of but it would've have been a costly mistake. None of my lights worked when that blew, and I had to spend a week figuring out that the sensor was the culprit. After I put the new one in, everything is fine. I havnt even switched out the rigged up side with the chevy socket because it's working just fine 😅😂 The lesson im trying to teach is, when you think you know it all....things break. Just disconnect your battery and don't add unneeded stress into your life! Keeping a 24 year old (or any) car running is hard enough as it is 😂
Hi Scotty, you're amazing and I love your tips. These really help me with my car, but I must make one correction about something you said, it's not about your advice, which I'm 100% sure you're right on. It's just that the W in engine oil stands for Winter not Weight.
When I was a kid I owned a 1958MGA. It had a steel can that contained the oil filter. I was changing the oil and filter on the apron of my friends’ garage.(thanks for being there for me White Cross Racing) Four times I fitted the ring gasket and filter and four times I blew oil all over at start-up. My buddy Olson,part owner and Saint eventually took pity. Using a sharp pick he dug five old o-ring gaskets out of where the filter can seated, put in my new one and the job was done. Experience will out! Thank Scotty for helping we amateurs out.
Man, I just started watching this guys 1/2 hr ago. This is my 6th video. Scotty, man, you’re awesome. Keep on inspiring future mechanics. Love your enthusiasm, I agree, “keyless” ignitions are dumb. I got a 88 k5 blazer and someone put a keyless ignition in it, I got rid of that piece of crap not long after I got the truck when the remote got “washed”.
Changed the oil in my mustang today. Glad I saw this video. There was the oil filter gasket right on the engine. I wouldn't have thought to look. Thanks Scotty.
Glad to see that the best cable was removed. Always remove the ground cable, and that is the negative cable usually. Some did have positive ground. If the wrench shorts ground to ground there will not be a spark.
You say (correctly) to put a smidge of oil on a new filter gasket, "so it won't leak". More importantly.....it will help prevent just the kind of failure you're talking about that the gasket "sticks" on the car when you take it off later for the next change-out.
@cupnoodles2 those hondas can run on just about any oil. I use 20/50 castrol year round here in Texas. If it gets cold where you are, go ahead and switch to 10 w 40 or 10/30. Scotty
Honda makes some great engines...their automatic transmissions are junk, but the engines are pretty dang good at least the older ones were. The car will fall apart but the engine will still be fine LOL.
William Todd my 2001 handa accord with automatic transmission still works perfectly fine, just needs a new power steering pump is all and it could do with new body parts. Other then that I haven't had many problems with it.
I have an 08 Honda Ridgeline it has 250,000 miles it runs great I only use synthetic motor oils I got the truck when it had 60,000 on it and the transmission has always had a little Shake right at 45 50 miles an hour but is never gone out Just kind of weird
I watch this channel as a mechanic who surfs TH-cam! With that said, I really would feel comfortable letting Scotty work on my vehicles. He does seem like a good honest person. He does things a little differently than I do but that’s ok. Different mechanics have different methods and angles of approach. Great channel!
I’ve always put oil on the new oil but never knew the reason other than that’s what my dad taught me to do but now thanks to Scotty I now know the reason
Although you took off the right one in your video, sou said: "Take off ONE of the battery cables!" Correct would have been: "Always take off the negative cable off your battery (first)!" Because if you take off the positive one, if it touches a metal part of your car, it would cause a short circuit!! (the metal frame and all metal parts attached to it are attached to the battery's negative pole) Therefore: If removing a battery cable, always start with the negative one!
BenWahBalls44 the thing is it doesnt matter which side you remove first. you can in fact remove the positive battery terminal and touch it to the frame. it still is not completing the circuit, hence no electricity flow, therefore no risk of short circuiting.
BenWahBalls44 may i add if you have more than one battery in your car, for a stereo system and what not, then removing the ground wire first is mandatory. make sure you know which one it is because some cars are in fact positive side grounded.
Ive heard that it can arc and burn you when youre putting it back on if you dont do it right. So I always just do the negative and I never had any problems
please stop that's makes no sense on whichever one he decides to remove due to creating an open circuit. the only vehicle that can do that is diesel which use a 2 battery system which will still have a closed circuit
Alfredo Zertuche Single battery system or not...While your removing the positive cable first, try touching the metal part of the wench or socket drive to one of the thin aluminum a/c lines. I can tell you from experience, the arc melts a hole in the line, and all the refrigerant leaks out. Trust me, remove the negative cable first and when installing a battery, connect the negative cable last. And I don't care if your wrench is insulated or not. It's still a good habit regardless. There are plenty of other items to accidently short out against as well. It's espoecially fun when the wench gets jammed up against something, arching, smoking, and becoming too hot to touch. And then you find yourself hoping and praying nothing sensitive got fried, like the ECM.
Just made a mistake today, I was doing an oil change (at Pep Boys) and noticed the Anti-freeze was low so I filled it up and forgot to closes the cap.(the oil part of the job was fine BTW) Glad the driver decide to call us and not keep driving so we can get the air out of the system. Next time I need to be more careful it could of been bad.
I worked at pep boys for 6 months as a gst and in my first 2 weeks they had me doing clutches and several other things im technically not qualified to do
You can't always do this in some cars, like ones with a sideways mounted filter. Dumbest design ever. But yes I agree put oil in your filter before installing if it allows.
Watching your videos is always very informative, while at the same time validating what I already know. Also makes me extremely glad to have chosen Subaru for my first new car. When I popped the hood of the Impreza and found the oil filter on the top and right in front I was extatic. (I have owned 3 90's era cavaliers which practically requires a contortionist). Still got the 100k service package but I like to know in future that I won't be cursing myself. When I watch your videos I usually end up with a self satisfied "I knew it" smirk. And a whose the fool now attitude. Though every time is still come away having learned something. Thanks again Scott!
As you know, there are exceptions to every rule. And one exception with the spark plugs is on the Ford 5.4 L V-8. Sometimes you have to run the snot out of that engine to get one of those plugs to break loose if you've never changed him before.
That's what I always do. Remember, aluminum expands at almost twice the rate of steel with heat. If the plugs are really stiff and hard to turn cold, warm it up. They always come out easier. I've talked to Ford techs that say the same thing. The 3v 5.4 especially, because the threads aren't the part that gets stuck unfortunately. The lower part gets stuck and will break off inside.
I did that stupid mistake too before! Years ago. With the oil filter gasket! Made massive puddle of oil on the ground, BUT at least I was alert when the oil light came on while running the car.
Your a blessing to the non mechanical folks on youtube. You don't yack and yack on about stuff that doesn't matter. Your to the point and what you list is what you talk about. Thank You for what you do.
I always double check my oil filter after the first drive to make sure it's tight, one time I didn't tighten it enough and oil leaked out but luckily I cought it before it did any damage.
Very good advice! This happened to me… the 3rd party oil filter gasket stuck on the engine. I dropped all the oil in just a few yards and quickly pulled over, saying the Corolla engine. I decided to purchase the more expensive Toyota oil filters instead because the gasket is crimped onto the filter and less likely to come off and stick to the engine.
I kinda figured that part, lol. It's just insane, I've poked around inside these computers and even the most complex ones are a simple series of cascaded logic controllers with inputs and outputs, essentially a specialized PLC.
+ReddmanDGZ Because they have to last 20 years, be completely immune to temperature, humidity, and dirt, besides boot up in less than a second, and never crash. It is a very different engineering problem than any home computer.
guyonearth we have miniature gadget boards the size of a wallet that can also boot up in seconds and perform the same tasks. $40-$70 MSRP. Weather-proofing isn't that hard or expensive either. Much of it really does boil down to money, profit vs expense. That money certainly isn't going to long-term firmware updates for ecu's or satnav/infotainment systems, which tend to start getting buggy after a few years
Just remember the Japanese would have crushed this Toyota long ago, so by the time the oil is diluted with fuel, with tired rings, 30 is probably a bit thin
Rick Simpson I was working on a piece of crap Dodge Ram and it’s a 2016 Cummins 2500. The oil was basically same as the tires and the spark plugs were orange/red with green crud, don’t know how that happened. 😵😄
Colby Liam Walden they didn't change the oil often enough or it's never been changed.!!! Just add some gasoline to the diesel fuel it'll clean up the spark plugs real good.!!! Someone probably put some crayons in the cylinders.?????
On the oil weight thing, yes, W stands for winter, but it is not like a 10W30 oil is weight 10 on winter and 30 at operating temperature. Keeping with the 10W30, the meaning is: It's a multi-viscous oil with cinematic viscosity factor 30, that on winter temperatures (0º Celcius) behaves like a single viscosity oil with factor 10 would do. For any driving above 0º degrees Celsius, the oil is a 30, and behaves like a 30 oil would. The advantage is in cold climate, where it flows like a thinner oil would in winter, but it doesn't mean the oil will have a cinamatic viscosity of 10 on winter.
CCCP Digital Studio in reality it has nothing to do with winter or summer. It has to do with the temperature of the oil itself as to how it reacts. If the vehicle is parked indoors and kept warm, it could be -50 outside and the oil has no clue. If the engine has a block heater, ( frost plug or coolant line heater) or oil pan heater, the oil will perform at the temperature it's at as it was designed to do.
Hello. When you see aW on the label of oil containers, such as 10 W 60, 10W-30, 0W 20, the W means, winter, not weight When you add anti-seize to spark plug threads, you change the way the spark plug cools. The only way a spark plug can cool is by transferring it’s heat through the body of the spark plug that threads into the head. When disconnecting any battery, always always always disconnect the negative post first. If you put a wrench on the positive terminal and accidentally contact metal such as radiator support with air cleaner housing or any metal, you will have a spark. Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen. Especially near dead batteries. Remember the Hindenburg? Been there When changing your oil filter, pour some of your new oil into the filter even if it is horizontally mounted, so your engine won’t starve for oil until the Oil pump can fill the oil filter.
On the first one I actually made the mistake of leaving my old gasket on because I forget to check if it come off with the old oil filter, I was driving and circled a block and right when I got to my house I saw a HUGE oil leak! I was lucky enough to not drain all the oil out and corrected my mistake, LESSON LEARNED!! No damage was done thank god lol
Here’s a little tip for doing electrical work. It’s a pain having to reset the clock and other settings that are stored in RAM (so are lost when power is lost), my auto parts store has an ingenious little thing, I think it’s called an ECU saver or a clock saver or something along those lines. It’s a 9 volt battery that connects to the OBD port in your car. Because the OBD port has a 12v (battery voltage) pin, this pin also being used to power some scan tools, this device feeds a little bit of power back into the ECU to keep the clock going when the vehicle battery is disconnected, it’s a 9v battery so I highly doubt it’ll cause any damage, but I thought it was a neat little device when I saw it.
I did a double gasket on my oil filter years ago! When I started engine new oil poured out all over my garage floor! Got engine stopped before it was out of oil!
Hi from Bulgaria Scotty, I have a question about the engine oil. I have a BMW E46 with M43B19TU engine ( 200 000 km by odometer at the time of purchase) . When I bought the car it was burning oil - something like 2 liters per 10 000 km. I used 5W40 oil as car manual suggest. I searched for help from different people who pretend to has good knowledge of car maintenance. Most of them told me to switch to heavier oil. I tried 10W40 with the same result. Then they told me to use 15W40 - I rejected to do so. Eventually I replaced the valve stem seals by myself (it took me 10 hours :D ) and now with 5W40 the car is not burning any oil at all. But here is the question: all the people who told me to switch to heavier oil like 15W40 to prevent oil burning claimed that the oil must be switched with heavier in accordance with the engine mileage - Is it true ?
Thats really not true. The small number is for the viscosity at low temperatures and the big number ist for the viscosity around 100 degrees celsius. So changing to 10w40 or 15w40 doesnt change a thing because a cold motor is not running so not burning any oil. When its on temperature its nearly the same. What makes a difference is the brand. I have made very good experiences with 0w40 com Mobil 1 New Life. This shit stopped my diesel engine from using oil :D. I love it. And my car too, the first had 290.000km as i sold it and the current one is on 320.000km and running perfect with first set of everything.
I think they meant thicker oil AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE. There is no difference between a 5w40 and a 15w40 at temp. I suspect they meant you to try a 15w50 etc...
As a DIY mechanic I just love it when car manufacturers put the oil filter on the BACK side of the engine where you can only reach it from underneath. On my Kia Rio I have to crawl completely under the car and it almost gives me an anxiety attack being under there. I have it on ramps plus jack stands plus a jack holding it and I still freak out. I considered a filter relocation kit but never got around to it and now the car is so old it's not worth spending the money, and I just realized it's almost due for another oil change... :(
I thought the Kia Reo had the filter in the front. Easy to change. You know what? They could have put the engine in backwards. Do you need to put the car in Drive to back out of a parking space? hahaha
True on all 4 points! I saw a mechanic get so mad for him pulling a Focus off a lift after changing oil and sure enough the old filter was still on it too and it didn't seal so there went around 3 quarts of oil on his shop floor from only driving it like 30 feet without knowing. I also after about 50 oil changes had one come off on me but I caught it before installing new filter, you always have to check (I always wipe off the oil pad boss anyway).
Definitely lube the oilf filter gasket when putting a new filter on...the first time I changed the oil in my Jeep it took me a week to try to cut the oil filter off because the owner before me didn't lube the gasket and must have cranked down on the filter with a wrench. So make sure you lube the gasket and only hand tighten it! Since I started changing me and my wife's oil, I've never had to use our filter wrench to get it off again!
Curious. If filter drains when vehicle is off, why is my oil filter full of oil when I change it. My filter sits vertically so how can it drain upward.
I used rotela 15 40 in a 1994 Nissan hardbody since new. Never a problem.engine had 250k. Transmission went. No help getting one at junk yard because that automatic was gold. Rebuilt was 2k. More than truck was worth love you channel
I "double-gasketed" the oil filter on a '75 C20 (Chevy Truck) decades ago. THANKFULLY, after threading the new oil filter on and refilling the oil, I started up the truck and LOOKED under it while running. "Black gold" cascading out of the block! I initially thought I had overtightened the filter (another common mistake) and warped its face, but after I crawled back under the truck, there it was... The last oil filter gasket glued to the block. I would have never known until backing the truck up and seeing the puddle and by then it could have been too late. =) Great tips (even if you're 101st airborne) =)
Mistake Number 5: making you tube videos giving inaccurate in information. And so someone doesn’t hurt themselves you don’t just take off any one of the battery cables. You’re suppose to hold on to any metal part of the car with one hand and disconnect the the possitve terminal with the other. Make sure it’s bare metal to be really safe.
This is why these videos are such bad information. Do you see a clean work area anywhere in these videos? No, why! Scotty needs to get a grip and quit giving out bad advice! Good catch on the battery cables! Needs to always be the positive side......
This isn't remotely correct; if you were going to worry this much about a specific cable it would be the negative cable because it's the cable tied to the frame, not that it's likely to be an issue either way. You are significantly more likely (though not at all likely overall due to the low voltage v body internal resistance) to cause a short by removing the positive while holding the frame, that is literally shorting it deliberately 😂 On your other point, car batteries can't hurt you under 99% of circumstances. Outside of trivial situations amperage without sufficient voltage is not at all dangerous.
Please note...UNHOOKING THE BATTERY CABLE ON SOME VEHICLES (i.e. vw's) (be it negative or positive) can cause the computer to loose its programming. Been there done that.
i take it you either you know someone who owns one or maybe owned one yourself. :) Have you ever had a sore on your gums, chewed on it a little bit and said to yourself, that pain feels a little bit good? I could be driving a vet, bmw, tundra, etc, but i choose to drive an 08 jetta.....simply cause it has the best factory stereo in my opinion. i know its gonna hurt later but it just feels right. Hate cars... but love God, People, and Music.
Gary Sears Motors Somerset, Ky. Agree it can even reset error codes. BTW - when short circuit is avoided when you remove the cable, what heppens when you put it back and you really mess up snd short circuited something?
On a newer car, get yourself a memory saver that plugs into the data link connector. Losing battery power can cause drivability problems when it erases all the learned parameters for idle, etc. Also, radios can lock up and require the code that everyone loses when they buy their car. We NEVER disconnect the battery without a memory saver unless there's no other option. Also, good call on antiseize on spark plug threads. Just a tiny dab will prevent all sorts of problems down the line.
I'm 45 didn't have a dad to show me these things that seems like every guy already knows where I'm from. its embarrassing to show your lack of knowledge around these guys. watching your stuff has really helped me understand and be able to ask the questions that need asking. thanks
Actually the "W" stands for "Whining". It's a little known fact that this used to stand for "Winter", but recently the standard was changed and this "W" is now on the bottle just for all the "Whining" little arseholes who complain about inconsequential details on youtube channels that provide them with free information they can use to save thousands upon thousands of dollars on their car maintenance. Don't believe me? Google it! ;)
it's inconsequential semantics BUT many people are justified when they "whine" about a factual, educational piece of media getting facts wrong, as it may not matter whether it's winter or weight, but similarly minor details might be very important to get right.
There are some exceptions I think to using the recommended oil. My car recommends 5w-20 but all the newer generations built after 0w-20 was developed all recommend 0w-20 without any major change in tolerances or engine design. The 0w-20 is better at start up and is only 0.3 viscosity less than the 5w-20 at running temperature and gets better gas mileage. I decided to do this after reading through a page on modern oils that I'm seeming to have trouble finding now.
What I know is that Corvette manual says if in a warm climate you can go from 5-30w to 10-30w. Modern engines are at extremely tight tolerances so the thin oil is good for flow at low temps. It is all about flow according to the experts I read.
He's right about the oil filter gasket. It stuck to the block when I was changing the oil in my mother's 1 year old Ford Explorer. The old gasket pinched, and when I cranked it, it puked half the oil on the garage floor. Thankfully I realized it pretty quickly and didn't damage the engine
Three things: 1 - If have never in my life installed a new oil filter without first cleaning the gasket surface on the engine. If you clean that surface, you can't leave an old gasket on it. 2 - Do not remove "one" of the battery cables from the battery. Always ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable from the battery. When you have a tool on the POSITIVE post, touching pretty much anything on the car with the tool will complete a short circuit. With a tool on the NEGATIVE post of the battery, pretty much the only things you can touch that will cause a short are the POSITIVE battery post and the starter motor stud. ALWAYS make the NEGATIVE cable the first thing removed and the last thing reinstalled. 3 - The W in the oil viscosity stands for winter, not weight.
Respectfully Scotty, I know the oil cap will only give one oil weight to be used. However, the owners manual will show different weights for different temperatures. It will recommend heavier in hot climates and, lighter in cold climates.
Having problems getting the old oil filter off my '94 XJS. Thing I can't figure out is that Jaguar very clearly emphasizes that a new one should only be put on by HAND tightening (about 1/2 turn after contact made). So, why is it so damn hard to get them OFF by hand (assuming the PO followed directions)?
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Scotty Kilmer my experience is that when you take a terminal lead off your battery MAKE SURE IT IS THE NEGATIVE ONE.... If you take the POSITIVE one off and it touches the body or metal it will ARK OUT and you could do some DAMAGE.
The "W" in the API service certification doesn't stand for weight. It stands for winterized. Other than that you've given very sound advice for oil selection.
Scotty Kilmer hi scott, just a quick one I had my car rebuilt 3 years ago. Since then it's only done 3000 ml. On changing oil and filter the garage has done the filter up so tight I can't get it off. The strap wrench just spins round without turning the filter. Please advise. Tried everything I know can't shift it even 1 inch. I need to route this up their arsed. It's an audi a3 1.6 sport 1998 vintage old style.
Scotty Kilmer mechanic says that power steering pump is bad but car drives just fine how do I tell if it's right
Tammy McGinnis the easy way is to take it to more than one mechanic for a quote and I don't mean to be an ass but take a man with you who is car savvy. My girlfriend has been ripped off by mechanics in the past because some shady mechanics take advantage of ladies who may not know too much about cars. Failing that ask your friends if they know an honest mechanic and go there for a quote. All the best.
Use the oil, it doesn't go bad, I've used oil sitting in bottles for 5 years and it still worked fine. Gasoline,now that breaks down within a year.
If the oil has been sitting for a while, it might not be a bad idea to shake the bottle before pouring.
on all modern cars they now suggest to never use anti sieze as the new plugs are all plated with metal to prevent them sticking, just read that last week in motor magazine.
What would be the harm in doing so, as long as you don't exceed the torque specs, it should be similar shouldn't it?
worst case it acts as insulation making the spark weak. and in another scenario, a chemical reaction can happen making the two metals destroy each other with the lube the source.
darthvader4hire
I didn't think about the chemical reaction possibilities, I guess I was just thinking of the really old can of International harvester antisieze that I have that has aluminum and copper in it and would therefore be fine with aluminum heads, or cast iron. But you do bring up a great point about the corrosion that could be caused by incompatible types of antisieze. Thanks.
What about dieletric grease? That still recommended?
Josh Isralowitz
Dielectric grease on the sparkplug boots is still recommended.
Tip: Some spark plugs specifically (NGK) tell you not to use anti-seize as this can allow you to over-torque your plugs by 20%. Plus they also use a special plating on the threads that inhibit corrosion.
Have you tried to get a stuck spark plug off? Have you heard of galvanic corrosion?
@@RockerGuy0001 Modern spark plugs are PLATED -- NO ANTI-SEIZE is necessary or required.
Good tip on installing new spark plugs, especially in overhead cam engines: push a rubber hose (3/8-inch ID fuel hose will work) down over the porcelain portion of the plug, lower the plug down into the plug hole using the hose and twist it to begin threading the plug into place. It's a good way to start tightening the plug without cross-threading it in the head. Pull off the hose once the plug has been twisted into place and finish tightening it with a spark plug socket. Using this method, I've never cross-threaded a plug hole.
OR? Buy a spark plug socket with the correct grommet inside!
Scotty gives good advice. Back in the '80's, I had the oil filter gasket come off and stick to the block, even though I had always rubbed a film of clean oil on the gasket, when new. I saw oil spilling out upon starting the engine, and saw what happened, and learned right then to always look for the old gasket on the old filter! My son saw it happen to him once too! DIY'ers, be alert to this! Anti-seize on plugs is excellent too, especially in aluminum heads! Can't hurt in cast iron heads, either! Don't risk electrical trouble, disconnect the negative battery terminal! And always use the correct oil viscosity, for your oil. Good advice, Scotty!
Great vid Scotty! I've been an amateur wrencher for just about 30 years myself! A few simple things can save you a TON of grief! Some i've been taught; others I learned the hard way... Keep up the great work!
Very good advice I remember the first time I did it about 30 years ago..Also people that buy their oil and filter From Walmart you Gotta make sure you get the right one .people switch oil filters in the box for some reason .I see that all the time with my customers that like to bring their own oil and filter.
Never happened to me in 30 years with the rubber seal coming off.
Good tip though.
With battery leads there is a right way of taking the leads off and then on again for those that don't know.
Take off the negative first then the positive lead when taking the battery off and when putting it back on again its positive first then the negative.
Think of it like this,its a negative experience when taking it off because you are starting the job and you don't like work,so negative first.
But when you have finished the job its a positive experience and your feeling good,so positive first.
1066gaz You're right. You might also explain why, so people can figure it out when they can't remember the rule, or correct others who don't know what they're taking about.
The reason is like this:
If you're busy loosening the positive terminal while the negative is still on the battery, and you slip, causing the spanner to contact both the positive terminal and some metal part of the car, you'll short the battery out, potentially making it explode, destroying the thing you touch, welding the spanner to the battery and car, or if your ring forms part of the short circuit, it can burn you very badly because these batteries can provide huge currents.
On the other hand, if you're loosening the negative terminal and the spanner slips, you're safe because the metal car is already connected to the terminal, and all the positive side is insulated in plastic or rubber, meaning you can't touch that with the spanner.
I've had it happen on my car. I think it's probably more common with cheap filters that have those flat rubber washers.
i take off whichever side is easiest. if the positive side then i keep my hand between the wrench and any metal that can possibly ground it.
i am a contrarian though and for 99.99% of the people removing the negative is best.
1066gaz, Just like “righty tighty, lefty loosie. 😂
@@paulk5311 Very interesting -- rarely do we find someone who confesses to their own ignorance.
Keep up the good work !
It's a good idea to fill the filter with oil to saturate the filter media. you can dump out the excess when filling the crankcase. This lessens the time it takes to build up oil pressure to the bearings and hence less engine wear.
The Disconnect battery issue actually happened to me at a campground in Vermont. I shorted out the actual part you show in the video. This short blew out the Fusible link on the battery. I drove around and around, no luck on a Sunday finding parts. Lol. I ended up pulling the clear plastic cover off the fusible link, unwrapping the metal strips and folding them tightly back together. It got me back to my apartment in Troy ny at that time. So funny to me to see you mention this. People, pay attention, Scotty is warning you of failures that actually happen.
Great stuff Scotty. After all these years of working on my car. I never knew that about changing spark plugs out on a cold engine. But it makes sense. So be it from now on.
Yep, I accidentally double gasketed an oil filter on a Mercury Cougar. Cranked it up and heard a weird noise look under the car and there's the whole jug of oil I just put in it xD
happens to us all
Was it a 302 Windsor?
gizzy nc ...i dont think it happens to us all....only retards
The rubber ring very seldom sticks to the engine block if it's does it's because somebody didn't put oil on the rubber first to the other guys question what is a 302 Windsor there is no windsor it's a 351 Windsor it was made in Windsor Canada versus a 351 Cleveland that was made in Cleveland
Only use a premium filter with a check valve in it that holds the oil pressure up in the engine.!!!!!! Or you will have dry start up every time good oil filters are junk anymore. Always match the rubber o-ring up with the new rubber o-ring make sure their exact a lot of oil filters nowadays have smaller O-rings they don't match up or they're sitting in a new area just barely ceiling with a lot of oxidation
I had the old oil filter gasket come off recently for the first time. I knew something was wrong when the new oil filter didn't seem to be getting tight. One time I couldn't get the spark plugs out. Then I realized I had tighten them when the engine was hot. After starting the car and letting the engine get hot the spark plugs came out with little effort.
Very good advice Scotty.
Years ago, I did an oil change on my motorcycle. I didn't spill one drop of oil.
When I started the bike, it was like a high pressure spray of oil from between the old ring that stuck to the engine and the new ring on the new oil filter. What a mess! Like you said, in a car you may not notice the problem until its too late. You have a really great channel! Keep up the good work.
So true about that disabling the battery part Scotty! One time I was backyard fixing one of the brake lights on my Lexus, I cut up the wires and wired in a new socket for the bulb from an old Chevy (it was all I had at the time) and I accidentally wired up the new light wrong. Ended up blowing the brake lamp failure sensor.... Luckily I had a spare car to take it off of but it would've have been a costly mistake. None of my lights worked when that blew, and I had to spend a week figuring out that the sensor was the culprit. After I put the new one in, everything is fine. I havnt even switched out the rigged up side with the chevy socket because it's working just fine 😅😂 The lesson im trying to teach is, when you think you know it all....things break. Just disconnect your battery and don't add unneeded stress into your life! Keeping a 24 year old (or any) car running is hard enough as it is 😂
Lol Scotty makes me laugh how he's always popping in an out of some trunk or some weird camera angle. Love his channel very informative!
Blazze777 we need a Scottys Day here in Houston!
Facts 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
That's why you always look under the car for leaks after you start it following the oil change.
Agree
Hi Scotty, you're amazing and I love your tips. These really help me with my car, but I must make one correction about something you said, it's not about your advice, which I'm 100% sure you're right on. It's just that the W in engine oil stands for Winter not Weight.
When I was a kid I owned a 1958MGA. It had a steel can that contained the oil filter. I was changing the oil and filter on the apron of my friends’ garage.(thanks for being there for me White Cross Racing) Four times I fitted the ring gasket and filter and four times I blew oil all over at start-up. My buddy Olson,part owner and Saint eventually took pity. Using a sharp pick he dug five old o-ring gaskets out of where the filter can seated, put in my new one and the job was done. Experience will out! Thank Scotty for helping we amateurs out.
Man, I just started watching this guys 1/2 hr ago. This is my 6th video. Scotty, man, you’re awesome. Keep on inspiring future mechanics. Love your enthusiasm, I agree, “keyless” ignitions are dumb. I got a 88 k5 blazer and someone put a keyless ignition in it, I got rid of that piece of crap not long after I got the truck when the remote got “washed”.
After watching 10 videos in the early morning I think I m the latest subscriber. Love from India keep on Scotty kilmer
Great advice! I like how your get straight to the point! So many videos do way too much explaining. Thanks for the tips!
Changed the oil in my mustang today. Glad I saw this video. There was the oil filter gasket right on the engine. I wouldn't have thought to look. Thanks Scotty.
Glad to see that the best cable was removed. Always remove the ground cable, and that is the negative cable usually. Some did have positive ground. If the wrench shorts ground to ground there will not be a spark.
Fyi. The w in the 10w -30 stands for winter. It
is afterall a Multi Viscosity oil.
You say (correctly) to put a smidge of oil on a new filter gasket, "so it won't leak". More importantly.....it will help prevent just the kind of failure you're talking about that the gasket "sticks" on the car when you take it off later for the next change-out.
@cupnoodles2 those hondas can run on just about any oil. I use 20/50 castrol year round here in Texas. If it gets cold where you are, go ahead and switch to 10 w 40 or 10/30. Scotty
Honda makes some great engines...their automatic transmissions are junk, but the engines are pretty dang good at least the older ones were. The car will fall apart but the engine will still be fine LOL.
William Todd my 2001 handa accord with automatic transmission still works perfectly fine, just needs a new power steering pump is all and it could do with new body parts. Other then that I haven't had many problems with it.
I have an 08 Honda Ridgeline it has 250,000 miles it runs great
I only use synthetic motor oils
I got the truck when it had 60,000 on it and the transmission has always had a little Shake right at 45 50 miles an hour but is never gone out
Just kind of weird
I watch this channel as a mechanic who surfs TH-cam! With that said, I really would feel comfortable letting Scotty work on my vehicles. He does seem like a good honest person. He does things a little differently than I do but that’s ok. Different mechanics have different methods and angles of approach. Great channel!
I would not let Scotty work on my car. He would get in the trunk and not come out unless there was a bell to ring.
gary miller 😂
I’ve always put oil on the new oil but never knew the reason other than that’s what my dad taught me to do but now thanks to Scotty I now know the reason
everything he advised is true thanks a lot
Dude, your videos are great. Good, down to earth advice is valuable.
Great tips. I have 30 years experience as a mechanic, master certified. These are all common mistakes that people make.
This man's camera angles are legendary
Although you took off the right one in your video, sou said: "Take off ONE of the battery cables!" Correct would have been: "Always take off the negative cable off your battery (first)!" Because if you take off the positive one, if it touches a metal part of your car, it would cause a short circuit!! (the metal frame and all metal parts attached to it are attached to the battery's negative pole) Therefore: If removing a battery cable, always start with the negative one!
BenWahBalls44 the thing is it doesnt matter which side you remove first. you can in fact remove the positive battery terminal and touch it to the frame. it still is not completing the circuit, hence no electricity flow, therefore no risk of short circuiting.
BenWahBalls44 may i add if you have more than one battery in your car, for a stereo system and what not, then removing the ground wire first is mandatory. make sure you know which one it is because some cars are in fact positive side grounded.
Ive heard that it can arc and burn you when youre putting it back on if you dont do it right. So I always just do the negative and I never had any problems
please stop that's makes no sense on whichever one he decides to remove due to creating an open circuit. the only vehicle that can do that is diesel which use a 2 battery system which will still have a closed circuit
Alfredo Zertuche
Single battery system or not...While your removing the positive cable first, try touching the metal part of the wench or socket drive to one of the thin aluminum a/c lines. I can tell you from experience, the arc melts a hole in the line, and all the refrigerant leaks out. Trust me, remove the negative cable first and when installing a battery, connect the negative cable last. And I don't care if your wrench is insulated or not. It's still a good habit regardless. There are plenty of other items to accidently short out against as well. It's espoecially fun when the wench gets jammed up against something, arching, smoking, and becoming too hot to touch. And then you find yourself hoping and praying nothing sensitive got fried, like the ECM.
Just made a mistake today, I was doing an oil change (at Pep Boys) and noticed the Anti-freeze was low so I filled it up and forgot to closes the cap.(the oil part of the job was fine BTW) Glad the driver decide to call us and not keep driving so we can get the air out of the system. Next time I need to be more careful it could of been bad.
And that's why only fools let Pep Boys touch their cars.
I worked at pep boys for 6 months as a gst and in my first 2 weeks they had me doing clutches and several other things im technically not qualified to do
YOUR THE GREATEST SCOTTY!!! BORN TO DO THESE EDUCATIONAL VIDEOS!!!
The reason I've had you put oil on the oil filter seal is to stop it snagging when you tighten it up
I would recommend filling oil filter with oil when you put it in so the first start up isn’t dry.
Always best to fill with oil , if the filter location allows it
You can't always do this in some cars, like ones with a sideways mounted filter. Dumbest design ever. But yes I agree put oil in your filter before installing if it allows.
Good idea but only if the filter mounts upwards. Doesn't work for horizontal mounted filters
Thanks Scotty for all your videos, they help me a lot,
Watching your videos is always very informative, while at the same time validating what I already know. Also makes me extremely glad to have chosen Subaru for my first new car. When I popped the hood of the Impreza and found the oil filter on the top and right in front I was extatic. (I have owned 3 90's era cavaliers which practically requires a contortionist). Still got the 100k service package but I like to know in future that I won't be cursing myself. When I watch your videos I usually end up with a self satisfied "I knew it" smirk. And a whose the fool now attitude. Though every time is still come away having learned something. Thanks again Scott!
As you know, there are exceptions to every rule. And one exception with the spark plugs is on the Ford 5.4 L V-8. Sometimes you have to run the snot out of that engine to get one of those plugs to break loose if you've never changed him before.
That's what I always do. Remember, aluminum expands at almost twice the rate of steel with heat. If the plugs are really stiff and hard to turn cold, warm it up. They always come out easier. I've talked to Ford techs that say the same thing. The 3v 5.4 especially, because the threads aren't the part that gets stuck unfortunately. The lower part gets stuck and will break off inside.
Had a double gasket seal on my truck. You'll only do that once
hi scotty. you should have done the entire video with that dashing helicopter helmet on. :)
First Last that would've been too funny! At first o thought he was going to! Lmao!
Scotty. You have been doing these a long time man. And always good stuff. My other DIY buddies all watch you. It's 2019 now.
I did that stupid mistake too before! Years ago. With the oil filter gasket! Made massive puddle of oil on the ground, BUT at least I was alert when the oil light came on while running the car.
youre a good man Scotty Kilmer! keep up the great videos :)
yep, i'm in the double gasket oil filter club luckily i didnt blow it up
Ford recommends 5w 20, but I've used Amsoil 0w20 for ten years and my 2007 f150 runs great and doesn't burn any oil!
yes amsoil is an excellant oil
Ya I'm done using mobil 1. I'm moving to Pennzoil or amsoil even tho amsoil is expensive.
+Rick Simpson dont matter
scalar weapons are not conventional emf
but are radiant energy and come inside shielding possible
+jquest43 impossible to shield,imo
I like the benefits of using Amsoil products. I just cringe at the price.
Thank you Scotty and continue to speak loud and clear!
Your a blessing to the non mechanical folks on youtube. You don't yack and yack on about stuff that doesn't matter. Your to the point and what you list is what you talk about. Thank You for what you do.
W stands for winter not weight
Scotty how about pouring oil into the oil filter before screwing it on??
I always double check my oil filter after the first drive to make sure it's tight, one time I didn't tighten it enough and oil leaked out but luckily I cought it before it did any damage.
Very good advice! This happened to me… the 3rd party oil filter gasket stuck on the engine. I dropped all the oil in just a few yards and quickly pulled over, saying the Corolla engine. I decided to purchase the more expensive Toyota oil filters instead because the gasket is crimped onto the filter and less likely to come off and stick to the engine.
I have to wonder why a car computer costs $1500, as much as a top-of-the-line gaming rig in some cases.
+ReddmanDGZ cause manufacturers love making money and own the rights to their own computer design.
I kinda figured that part, lol.
It's just insane, I've poked around inside these computers and even the most complex ones are a simple series of cascaded logic controllers with inputs and outputs, essentially a specialized PLC.
+ReddmanDGZ Because they have to last 20 years, be completely immune to temperature, humidity, and dirt, besides boot up in less than a second, and never crash. It is a very different engineering problem than any home computer.
One word.....Capitalism
guyonearth we have miniature gadget boards the size of a wallet that can also boot up in seconds and perform the same tasks. $40-$70 MSRP. Weather-proofing isn't that hard or expensive either. Much of it really does boil down to money, profit vs expense. That money certainly isn't going to long-term firmware updates for ecu's or satnav/infotainment systems, which tend to start getting buggy after a few years
The W in oil numbers does not refer to "weight or wait" it means the oil is approved for "WINTER" use
"" W" stands for WINTER not WEIGHT.
Indeed. Weight is annoying. Like referring to 80W90 gear oil and "rear end dope".
@Evan Miller Agreed. The "W" represents the oil's thickness in cold temperatures, which you still think of as a "weight", so to speak.
Then what is "summer oil"
Just remember the Japanese would have crushed this Toyota long ago, so by the time the oil is diluted with fuel, with tired rings, 30 is probably a bit thin
I asked my instructor and you're correct! I never knew thats what it meant!
best advice, prevention rather than cure. Always have a good servicing plan, get things routinely checked and kept well.
My oil filter was double gasket-ed by a garage... Now I KNOW it's done right, doing it myself.
Daniel Smith
Damn right. That's why you don't let Walmart touch your car.
Don't go by mileage on your oil change go by the color of the oil change it before it turns dark brown
Rick Simpson I was working on a piece of crap Dodge Ram and it’s a 2016 Cummins 2500. The oil was basically same as the tires and the spark plugs were orange/red with green crud, don’t know how that happened. 😵😄
Colby Liam Walden they didn't change the oil often enough or it's never been changed.!!! Just add some gasoline to the diesel fuel it'll clean up the spark plugs real good.!!! Someone probably put some crayons in the cylinders.?????
Colby Liam Walden spark plugs 😂🤣😅😂
If you did that with a diesel engine you'd be changing oil every day.
Spark plugs on a cummins hell yeah
On the oil weight thing, yes, W stands for winter, but it is not like a 10W30 oil is weight 10 on winter and 30 at operating temperature. Keeping with the 10W30, the meaning is: It's a multi-viscous oil with cinematic viscosity factor 30, that on winter temperatures (0º Celcius) behaves like a single viscosity oil with factor 10 would do. For any driving above 0º degrees Celsius, the oil is a 30, and behaves like a 30 oil would. The advantage is in cold climate, where it flows like a thinner oil would in winter, but it doesn't mean the oil will have a cinamatic viscosity of 10 on winter.
CCCP Digital Studio in reality it has nothing to do with winter or summer. It has to do with the temperature of the oil itself as to how it reacts. If the vehicle is parked indoors and kept warm, it could be -50 outside and the oil has no clue. If the engine has a block heater, ( frost plug or coolant line heater) or oil pan heater, the oil will perform at the temperature it's at as it was designed to do.
Nope if it's 10w it means you can only use it in places that are 10 degrees
Wait a minute, cccp. At 32 F oil flows like 10 grade. At 200F oil flows like 30 grade. Or is it 100F?
The "W" in the oil number means "Winter" not "weight" Which means how fast the oil can move from point A to point B in Winter.
Hello. When you see aW on the label of oil containers, such as 10 W 60, 10W-30, 0W 20, the W means, winter, not weight
When you add anti-seize to spark plug threads, you change the way the spark plug cools. The only way a spark plug can cool is by transferring it’s heat through the body of the spark
plug that threads into the head.
When disconnecting any battery, always always always disconnect the negative post first. If you put a wrench on the positive terminal and accidentally contact metal such as radiator support with air cleaner housing or any metal, you will have a spark. Lead acid batteries give off hydrogen. Especially near dead batteries. Remember the Hindenburg? Been there
When changing your oil filter, pour some of your new oil into the filter even if it is horizontally mounted, so your engine won’t starve for oil until the Oil pump can fill the oil filter.
No it means walrus
On the first one I actually made the mistake of leaving my old gasket on because I forget to check if it come off with the old oil filter, I was driving and circled a block and right when I got to my house I saw a HUGE oil leak! I was lucky enough to not drain all the oil out and corrected my mistake, LESSON LEARNED!! No damage was done thank god lol
Here’s a little tip for doing electrical work. It’s a pain having to reset the clock and other settings that are stored in RAM (so are lost when power is lost), my auto parts store has an ingenious little thing, I think it’s called an ECU saver or a clock saver or something along those lines. It’s a 9 volt battery that connects to the OBD port in your car. Because the OBD port has a 12v (battery voltage) pin, this pin also being used to power some scan tools, this device feeds a little bit of power back into the ECU to keep the clock going when the vehicle battery is disconnected, it’s a 9v battery so I highly doubt it’ll cause any damage, but I thought it was a neat little device when I saw it.
How much for the Celica
Only Jay Leno can gets his hands on that puppy.
do the people who's cars you work on know you use them in your videos?
yes, they like it that their cars become famous on youtube
+Scotty Kilmer Cool. I know I would
I did a double gasket on my oil filter years ago! When I started engine new oil poured out all over my garage floor! Got engine stopped before it was out of oil!
This is the most bad ass intro yet! Thanks for your service and all the knowledge!
I swear if I had a dime for every guy who tells me I should use 10w40 when my car oil is recommended 5w30.
Hi from Bulgaria Scotty, I have a question about the engine oil. I have a BMW E46 with M43B19TU engine ( 200 000 km by odometer at the time of purchase) . When I bought the car it was burning oil - something like 2 liters per 10 000 km. I used 5W40 oil as car manual suggest. I searched for help from different people who pretend to has good knowledge of car maintenance. Most of them told me to switch to heavier oil. I tried 10W40 with the same result. Then they told me to use 15W40 - I rejected to do so. Eventually I replaced the valve stem seals by myself (it took me 10 hours :D ) and now with 5W40 the car is not burning any oil at all. But here is the question: all the people who told me to switch to heavier oil like 15W40 to prevent oil burning claimed that the oil must be switched with heavier in accordance with the engine mileage - Is it true ?
+Daniel Genov worn engine often work better with heavier oil, yes
Thats really not true. The small number is for the viscosity at low temperatures and the big number ist for the viscosity around 100 degrees celsius. So changing to 10w40 or 15w40 doesnt change a thing because a cold motor is not running so not burning any oil. When its on temperature its nearly the same. What makes a difference is the brand. I have made very good experiences with 0w40 com Mobil 1 New Life. This shit stopped my diesel engine from using oil :D. I love it. And my car too, the first had 290.000km as i sold it and the current one is on 320.000km and running perfect with first set of everything.
I think they meant thicker oil AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE. There is no difference between a 5w40 and a 15w40 at temp. I suspect they meant you to try a 15w50 etc...
There is nothing wrong. That is completely normal for a BMW. Burns Motoroil Weekly. that is why they named them that.
lol thats the first time i heard that one, nice
As a DIY mechanic I just love it when car manufacturers put the oil filter on the BACK side of the engine where you can only reach it from underneath. On my Kia Rio I have to crawl completely under the car and it almost gives me an anxiety attack being under there. I have it on ramps plus jack stands plus a jack holding it and I still freak out. I considered a filter relocation kit but never got around to it and now the car is so old it's not worth spending the money, and I just realized it's almost due for another oil change... :(
I thought the Kia Reo had the filter in the front. Easy to change. You know what? They could have put the engine in backwards. Do you need to put the car in Drive to back out of a parking space? hahaha
God bless you scotty for your knowledge
Surprised you didn't recommend filling the oil filter with fresh oil before installing.
Thats a great idea if it screws on vertically, not so much if it screws on horizontally.
You don't need to prime passenger vehicle oil filters.
No, the filter holds oil in it's paper pleats and in most cases the way the filter is installed does not allow it to drain.
Depends on the filter. Some are pre-filled, some are dry and requires oil
Never seen a pre-filled filter off the shelf.
True on all 4 points! I saw a mechanic get so mad for him pulling a Focus off a lift after changing oil and sure enough the old filter was still on it too and it didn't seal so there went around 3 quarts of oil on his shop floor from only driving it like 30 feet without knowing. I also after about 50 oil changes had one come off on me but I caught it before installing new filter, you always have to check (I always wipe off the oil pad boss anyway).
Definitely lube the oilf filter gasket when putting a new filter on...the first time I changed the oil in my Jeep it took me a week to try to cut the oil filter off because the owner before me didn't lube the gasket and must have cranked down on the filter with a wrench. So make sure you lube the gasket and only hand tighten it! Since I started changing me and my wife's oil, I've never had to use our filter wrench to get it off again!
The W on oils does not mean weight. Means winter. Depending on the manual and environment you can use different oils too. good vid tho
yes it does
+ss4goku9695 yes it means weight? lol look it up
I know it means weight haha
it most definetely means Winter :')
Byron Hammond Well then how do you determine the weight of the oil?
before you out the oil filter on you should fill it up so the engine doesn't run dry for a few seconds next time you start it
that's an old wive's tale, filters drain when engine is shut off, so if that was the case, you'd have to do that every time before you started the car
scotty is right
you only have to do that for diesel engines or turbo charged. You dont even have to do it though there is enough oil coating the bearings lol.
You don't have to do that for any engine
Curious. If filter drains when vehicle is off, why is my oil filter full of oil when I change it. My filter sits vertically so how can it drain upward.
I used rotela 15 40 in a 1994 Nissan hardbody since new. Never a problem.engine had 250k. Transmission went. No help getting one at junk yard because that automatic was gold. Rebuilt was 2k. More than truck was worth love you channel
I "double-gasketed" the oil filter on a '75 C20 (Chevy Truck) decades ago. THANKFULLY, after threading the new oil filter on and refilling the oil, I started up the truck and LOOKED under it while running. "Black gold" cascading out of the block! I initially thought I had overtightened the filter (another common mistake) and warped its face, but after I crawled back under the truck, there it was... The last oil filter gasket glued to the block. I would have never known until backing the truck up and seeing the puddle and by then it could have been too late. =) Great tips (even if you're 101st airborne) =)
Mistake Number 5: making you tube videos giving inaccurate in information.
And so someone doesn’t hurt themselves you don’t just take off any one of the battery cables. You’re suppose to hold on to any metal part of the car with one hand and disconnect the the possitve terminal with the other. Make sure it’s bare metal to be really safe.
This is why these videos are such bad information. Do you see a clean work area anywhere in these videos? No, why! Scotty needs to get a grip and quit giving out bad advice! Good catch on the battery cables! Needs to always be the positive side......
This isn't remotely correct; if you were going to worry this much about a specific cable it would be the negative cable because it's the cable tied to the frame, not that it's likely to be an issue either way. You are significantly more likely (though not at all likely overall due to the low voltage v body internal resistance) to cause a short by removing the positive while holding the frame, that is literally shorting it deliberately 😂
On your other point, car batteries can't hurt you under 99% of circumstances. Outside of trivial situations amperage without sufficient voltage is not at all dangerous.
Please note...UNHOOKING THE BATTERY CABLE ON SOME VEHICLES (i.e. vw's) (be it negative or positive) can cause the computer to loose its programming. Been there done that.
the computer will reboot and find the best way to run your car
i take it you either you know someone who owns one or maybe owned one yourself. :) Have you ever had a sore on your gums, chewed on it a little bit and said to yourself, that pain feels a little bit good? I could be driving a vet, bmw, tundra, etc, but i choose to drive an 08 jetta.....simply cause it has the best factory stereo in my opinion. i know its gonna hurt later but it just feels right. Hate cars... but love God, People, and Music.
Some people enjoy driving on roads other than straights *grin*
And it will relearn that after a few miles.
Gary Sears Motors Somerset, Ky. Agree it can even reset error codes. BTW - when short circuit is avoided when you remove the cable, what heppens when you put it back and you really mess up snd short circuited something?
On a newer car, get yourself a memory saver that plugs into the data link connector. Losing battery power can cause drivability problems when it erases all the learned parameters for idle, etc. Also, radios can lock up and require the code that everyone loses when they buy their car. We NEVER disconnect the battery without a memory saver unless there's no other option. Also, good call on antiseize on spark plug threads. Just a tiny dab will prevent all sorts of problems down the line.
I'm 45
didn't have a dad to show me these things that seems like every guy already knows where I'm from. its embarrassing to show your lack of knowledge around these guys. watching your stuff has really helped me understand and be able to ask the questions that need asking. thanks
Actually the "W" stands for "Whining". It's a little known fact that this used to stand for "Winter", but recently the standard was changed and this "W" is now on the bottle just for all the "Whining" little arseholes who complain about inconsequential details on youtube channels that provide them with free information they can use to save thousands upon thousands of dollars on their car maintenance. Don't believe me? Google it! ;)
W is for wumbo
I wumbo.. You wumbo.. He she me.... Wuumboo...
it's inconsequential semantics BUT many people are justified when they "whine" about a factual, educational piece of media getting facts wrong, as it may not matter whether it's winter or weight, but similarly minor details might be very important to get right.
i look for the w + c designation because i want cheese with my wine.
This show could beat any rating, for mechanic fans.
There are some exceptions I think to using the recommended oil. My car recommends 5w-20 but all the newer generations built after 0w-20 was developed all recommend 0w-20 without any major change in tolerances or engine design. The 0w-20 is better at start up and is only 0.3 viscosity less than the 5w-20 at running temperature and gets better gas mileage. I decided to do this after reading through a page on modern oils that I'm seeming to have trouble finding now.
Why is this guy yelling at me? Clam down
lol
Love your instructive video!!
What I know is that Corvette manual says if in a warm climate you can go from 5-30w to 10-30w. Modern engines are at extremely tight tolerances so the thin oil is good for flow at low temps. It is all about flow according to the experts I read.
Protect Scotty at all cost we need his knowledge as long as possible.
He's right about the oil filter gasket. It stuck to the block when I was changing the oil in my mother's 1 year old Ford Explorer. The old gasket pinched, and when I cranked it, it puked half the oil on the garage floor. Thankfully I realized it pretty quickly and didn't damage the engine
Three things: 1 - If have never in my life installed a new oil filter without first cleaning the gasket surface on the engine. If you clean that surface, you can't leave an old gasket on it. 2 - Do not remove "one" of the battery cables from the battery. Always ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable from the battery. When you have a tool on the POSITIVE post, touching pretty much anything on the car with the tool will complete a short circuit. With a tool on the NEGATIVE post of the battery, pretty much the only things you can touch that will cause a short are the POSITIVE battery post and the starter motor stud. ALWAYS make the NEGATIVE cable the first thing removed and the last thing reinstalled. 3 - The W in the oil viscosity stands for winter, not weight.
generalbarry only ones this does not apply to are the few positive ground vehicles that were made.
Respectfully Scotty, I know the oil cap will only give one oil weight to be used. However, the owners manual will show different weights for different temperatures. It will recommend heavier in hot climates and, lighter in cold climates.
Having problems getting the old oil filter off my '94 XJS. Thing I can't figure out is that Jaguar very clearly emphasizes that a new one should only be put on by HAND tightening (about 1/2 turn after contact made). So, why is it so damn hard to get them OFF by hand (assuming the PO followed directions)?
Improper installation -- no lube on previous gasket.
Love these videos Scotty! Blessings from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷 🙏
Scotty I have been here at work and watching your videos all day!!! Great video's!!! I learned a lot from you.
Damn Scotty, you make the best mechanic videos ever, they are all so positive
Scotty K, probably the best mechanic on the planet for the common man.
One of the best. Str8 to the point and entertaining. Keep going scotty