You got there Keith, you do stick at it mate you must have a very understanding wife, congratulations on the completion of the welding/fabrication part well done Malcolm
Every time I watch the opening sequence on your videos I look at Project Bruce and it looks nice and shiny. Just goes to show what can be hidden beneath but you’re doing an amazing transformation and on a budget. 👏
Loving seeing it come together so quickly as your able to dedicate full time to it.. its inspired me to crack on with mine.. glad I saw the end of video as I didn't realise boot had tags in for wire loom!. Mine was totally rated out!
Hi Keith, i was thinking myself before you said it yourself how much work has gone into repairing the boot floor area,...a lot of metal work! And so you really have done a grand job! Shame on one hand, that we won't see it in body colour, but understand ya on a budget. It's full steam ahead for Bingley then! Great stuff as always 😊
Incredible work Keith, very time consuming too, glad to see you remembered the wiring harness tabs, you do miss them when they aren't there lol Looking forward to seeing this at Bingley. Have you got yourself a stand?
Hi Keith. Loving these videos. They remind me a lot of my first ever car, a 1975 Mini 1000 with holes in all the same places! Did you weld the boot floor to the rear wing on the near side. At 6:37, if you look through the light cluster hole, there is quite a big gap, and again at 13:34, you see that same gap opening and closing as you manhandle the reinforcement plate into place. It looks to me like there is only seam sealer closing that gap.
It's stitch welded from the inside 1 inch every inch 13:45, you will also see a return lip on the repair panel at 10:45 that folds down which is then spot welded from the outside and seam welded at the bottom of the arch 16:16. The gap at 6:37 was closed up by hitting the arch from the outside to close the gap and then it is welded at the bottom of the return lip
Me too, older than you but my first car was a 1963 mini but we stuck a full MG1100 lump in it. - Cost me £75 from the local breakers which was more than a month’s salary for a youngster in 1970 but was well worth it! 😊 best regards to you.
as a newbie who is about to tackle something similar - why did you use tin snips to cut the new piece down to size rather than using the angle grinder to cut it as you did taking the old section out?
Hi Keith, General panel replacement question, if I'm replacing a panel which has a lip/seam to be spot welded then do I cut the old panel right next to the lip and grind away the remaining lip with some grinding disk? if not pls share the best practice you follow , thanks.
If it's roller welded like it is on this age Mini then the only option it to cut the old panel next to the lip and gently grind back with a flap wheel. If it has spot welds (Later cars I think) then you can usually just carefully drill out the spot welds and pry the panels apart an inch at a time.
BOOM 16th lol. i blame working late 😞 You young ones and H&S. Proper men wouldn't wear goggles, gloves or even a disc shield and their grinders, and don't get me started on using welding masks. Society is just H&S mad 🤣🤣
Never apologize for being awesome!!
You got there Keith, you do stick at it mate you must have a very understanding wife, congratulations on the completion of the welding/fabrication part well done Malcolm
No apology needed, another great video! Really enjoyed watching
Will keep me sane this for half hour while I'm waiting for my ferry 👌
wow that has been a mamouth task looking much better
Keith.. excellent episode.. Great content and for me, the right level of detail..
Knocked that out fast Keith!
Another great video! Thanks, Keith.
God job + explanation, as usual
Top quality work as always. 👍👍👍👍
Keith, another quality video 👌
Lovely job.!
Every time I watch the opening sequence on your videos I look at Project Bruce and it looks nice and shiny. Just goes to show what can be hidden beneath but you’re doing an amazing transformation and on a budget. 👏
I still think it would be great to finish a subscribers Mini, but I wonder who’s ..........................😂😂😂 great content as usual 👍
Very nice.
👍🇺🇸✌️
Great attention to detail Keith, and probably stronger than the original build…👍😊
Loving seeing it come together so quickly as your able to dedicate full time to it.. its inspired me to crack on with mine.. glad I saw the end of video as I didn't realise boot had tags in for wire loom!. Mine was totally rated out!
Awesome work. Incredibly tedious to get right. Great job!
Great video Keith. Every job has the potential to grow into a much bigger one.
(Working from above in the boot is also a lot safer for you too Keith…)🙏stay safe buddy!
Hiya Keith-you're doing a fantastic job there on Bruce. Bet you were glad to put that welder away! Brilliant video. Keep well and thankyou.
Straight in there!!!!!!!
Hi Keith, i was thinking myself before you said it yourself how much work has gone into repairing the boot floor area,...a lot of metal work! And so you really have done a grand job! Shame on one hand, that we won't see it in body colour, but understand ya on a budget. It's full steam ahead for Bingley then! Great stuff as always 😊
Good job man, doing it proper!
Incredible work Keith, very time consuming too, glad to see you remembered the wiring harness tabs, you do miss them when they aren't there lol Looking forward to seeing this at Bingley. Have you got yourself a stand?
I've not got a stand but I asked British Mini Club if the car could be indoors so people can see it. I'm not sure where it will be parked yet.
Hi Keith. Loving these videos. They remind me a lot of my first ever car, a 1975 Mini 1000 with holes in all the same places! Did you weld the boot floor to the rear wing on the near side. At 6:37, if you look through the light cluster hole, there is quite a big gap, and again at 13:34, you see that same gap opening and closing as you manhandle the reinforcement plate into place. It looks to me like there is only seam sealer closing that gap.
It's stitch welded from the inside 1 inch every inch 13:45, you will also see a return lip on the repair panel at 10:45 that folds down which is then spot welded from the outside and seam welded at the bottom of the arch 16:16. The gap at 6:37 was closed up by hitting the arch from the outside to close the gap and then it is welded at the bottom of the return lip
Me too, older than you but my first car was a 1963 mini but we stuck a full MG1100 lump in it. - Cost me £75 from the local breakers which was more than a month’s salary for a youngster in 1970 but was well worth it! 😊 best regards to you.
Great quality work, really impressed with this build, would love to see you take on a BMC or Leyland era car 👍
as a newbie who is about to tackle something similar - why did you use tin snips to cut the new piece down to size rather than using the angle grinder to cut it as you did taking the old section out?
Just convenience, no particular reason.
Hi Keith, General panel replacement question, if I'm replacing a panel which has a lip/seam to be spot welded then do I cut the old panel right next to the lip and grind away the remaining lip with some grinding disk? if not pls share the best practice you follow , thanks.
If it's roller welded like it is on this age Mini then the only option it to cut the old panel next to the lip and gently grind back with a flap wheel. If it has spot welds (Later cars I think) then you can usually just carefully drill out the spot welds and pry the panels apart an inch at a time.
@@classicminiworkshop Cheers Keith much appreciated.
Hi Keith, is the mini sold or is it being raffled at Bingley?
It's being sold at Bingley. I'm meeting the potential buyer there and if he's happy with the car he will buy it there and drive it home.
BOOM 16th lol. i blame working late 😞 You young ones and H&S. Proper men wouldn't wear goggles, gloves or even a disc shield and their grinders, and don't get me started on using welding masks. Society is just H&S mad 🤣🤣