omg. I remember watching your videos when I first took an interest in sewing. I was young and easily discouraged so it didn't last long. 7 years later I want to learn again and you came up during my search. so thankful for you and glad to see you still post often♥ fingers crossed I dont give up😅
Please show us how to prep the muslin. Please show us how to drape the cups. I have a dress form made from my (approximately taken) measures and I would try do do this. Thank you very much!
Can't wait for part 2!! I've always wanted to make a corset and there are a lot of "follow along" videos out there, but I'd like to make my own pattern. If you start doing a lot of draping videos like this, I think one suggestion I'd have for when you want to skip doing part of it for timing is just letting us know if you're draping the grainline vertically or if it needs to be adjusted as it was in the back-side piece, and why. Seeing it actually draped is nice, but not the point. Personally, what I'm hoping to learn from your videos is the knowledge to judge those considerations when I'm making my own pieces. But also, do whatever you want forever, it's your channel!! Thank you so much for everything!!
I understand the confusion. I changed my mind about that grainline while draping another panel but I didn't change it. (I shouldn't have said anything.) I'm thinking about changing it when I transfer to paper and make a toile. I'll address it when I'm doing the pattern. The reason I want to change is because the direction of tension is across the width of the corset, as it's pulled tight and laced, so the strength should be vertical and horizontal (the grain and the cross grain) to support that. Draping the way I did makes it pull across like a bias, which is stretchier.
Fantastic, Ms. Zoe!! Thank you so much for sharing your great knowledge. You inspire me to trying my hand at Couture!! You are such a beautiful, kind, and funny lady!! I enjoy so much watching your videos! Thank you!! 🌺🤗🌺
Can you show draping the bust please … the cup is the hardest part for me . I always end up with darts or pleats soooo seeing it done correctly will help me allot
Hey! What mannequins are best to buy? Are there any cheap options. And in future videos can you show how to drape a simple corset as well just with side seams and centre front and back? Like the ones in bridal dresses
Thank you for this great video. Just a question: is there such a thing as a hard-shell mannequin that you could use for making clothes, please? See, I make handsewn, lasted shoes (but interested in making my own corsets as well)- and the first thing that came to my mind was: why not use a resin mannequin, use masking tape and then just cut out the shapes I need (the same way a shoe upper is designed on a last)? Much easier that draping muslin.
I don't know much about shoemaking but generally speaking, shoes are typically built to retain its shape when unworn. Clothes are not built like that, the materials we use for clothes are much thinner, softer, made to fold and put away, made to drape. We need our clothes to move a lot more than the basic hinge of a shoe, even a corset. Garment weight leathers are tanned to be much softer than leathers used for shoes and many accessories. We do not mold fabric to fit the shapes of a body, we cut flat shapes and use seams to curve around the body. This allows for alterations and tailoring also. "Easier" is subjective.
@@zoehongteaches, thank you for your response, Zoe. I appreciate your viewpoint. It keeps reminding me how others see shoes: as stiff objects with hinges. It's something that for me sounds quite alien. For a well-made pair of (handsewn) shoes is closer to a masterpiece in kinetics rather than a a medical cast. Our feet- with 33 joints, 26 bones, and more than a hundred muscles, tendons, and ligaments that all work together- are the most articulated part of the human body. And our shoes should reflect that. That's why I more often than not work with the finest goatskin nappa, brain-tanned buckskin, even kangaroo hides (which happen to be finer and more pliable than most fabrics on the market). Commercial, stiff and unsightly, aka regular shoes are made to fit the machines (that created them) rather than human needs. The factory makes its profit...and the people hobble around the streets in their rigid casts and dream about "the perfect pair" of shoes that is 100% comfortable and does not give them bunions/ plantar fasciitis/ hip and back problems. I strongly believe that shoes can be made without man-made counters, metal shanks and 3 layers of the heaviest veg tan soling. Shoes are- by the very nature of the human anatomy- supposed to be more flexible than any other piece of clothing. More flexible than corsets even. Hence lasting (on a custom last) seems preferable to draping muslin.
Hello, zoe your videos are absolute best I just love how clear and informative videos you share, I have a question I want to start fashion sketching but I'm confuse where to start like should I do fiqure drawing and what about later and what will be the end of it at what point should I stop and just do practice everyday can you reply me please 🥺 and lots of love from my side keep going!🤗.
If you want to really become a good fashion illustrator, yes, start with figure drawing. I have a figure drawing class on my patreon, or you can take a model drawing class local to you. Then learn how to draw clothes on figures. If you only want to learn some basic sketching so you can communicate your fashion designs, just buy some figure templates and jump to drawing clothes. I also have a drawing clothes on bodies class on Patreon and I have assorted videos here on the channel.
I have a question for you about variations. How would you alter the pattern to make, let’s say, a peplum along the bottom? Would you go into the draping process with the intention of leaving extra fabric to make the peplum or would you add the peplum after you’ve done your initial draping?
I would drape the peplum after I finished draping the corset pieces. If I was doing a shirred ruffle, I would probably make the ruffle out of muslin, pin it to the rest of the corset drape. If I want the corset to be long and skirt-like towards the bottom, without a horizontal seam, I could drape the whole piece or add length and fullness to the pattern.
@zoehongteaches Cool, I don't like modesty panels either! If a client wants it, I will make one. I have antique corsets in my collection. They don't have them either. 😄
Would love to see the draping of the cup and also the preparation of the muslin sheets prior to draping:)
I totally agree @dpcaw!! Can we have a video, Zoe? Also, thank you for these amazing videos @zoehongteaches!
Wonderful! Thank you for continuously sharing your knowledge with us!
You’re welcome!
omg. I remember watching your videos when I first took an interest in sewing. I was young and easily discouraged so it didn't last long. 7 years later I want to learn again and you came up during my search. so thankful for you and glad to see you still post often♥ fingers crossed I dont give up😅
Please show us how to prep the muslin. Please show us how to drape the cups. I have a dress form made from my (approximately taken) measures and I would try do do this. Thank you very much!
Thanks for doing this! I know a bit about historical corsetry, but I'm very interested in how a modern day professional approaches the patterning!
Can't wait for part 2!! I've always wanted to make a corset and there are a lot of "follow along" videos out there, but I'd like to make my own pattern.
If you start doing a lot of draping videos like this, I think one suggestion I'd have for when you want to skip doing part of it for timing is just letting us know if you're draping the grainline vertically or if it needs to be adjusted as it was in the back-side piece, and why. Seeing it actually draped is nice, but not the point.
Personally, what I'm hoping to learn from your videos is the knowledge to judge those considerations when I'm making my own pieces.
But also, do whatever you want forever, it's your channel!!
Thank you so much for everything!!
I understand the confusion. I changed my mind about that grainline while draping another panel but I didn't change it. (I shouldn't have said anything.) I'm thinking about changing it when I transfer to paper and make a toile. I'll address it when I'm doing the pattern.
The reason I want to change is because the direction of tension is across the width of the corset, as it's pulled tight and laced, so the strength should be vertical and horizontal (the grain and the cross grain) to support that. Draping the way I did makes it pull across like a bias, which is stretchier.
Gotcha!! Thank you!
Fantastic, Ms. Zoe!!
Thank you so much for sharing your great knowledge. You inspire me to trying my hand at Couture!!
You are such a beautiful, kind, and funny lady!! I enjoy so much watching your videos!
Thank you!! 🌺🤗🌺
Thank you and you're welcome!
This came at the perfect time! I’m currently draping a corset and I’ve done the bustier so I will definitely be following this video
Zoe-ception I'm here for it!! ❤❤❤
hahahahaha Zoe-ception
❤❤❤ Thanks Zoe for sharing and guidance, looking forward for more in thiese series 😊
You're welcome!
Can you show draping the bust please … the cup is the hardest part for me . I always end up with darts or pleats soooo seeing it done correctly will help me allot
Love your lipstick color😊
Hey! What mannequins are best to buy? Are there any cheap options.
And in future videos can you show how to drape a simple corset as well just with side seams and centre front and back? Like the ones in bridal dresses
Zoe… I LOVE YOU
Fun course. Thank you for sharing
You're welcome!
Good knowledge. I am from Punjab in India 👍👍👍👍👍 I am your subscriber
Thanks!
Luv the idea of the twill tape! You’re sharing just in time before Amazon, send my next subscription, ha!!
Thanks zoe! 😊😊
You're welcome!
pls can you drape the cup can we get the whole zoe experience just for assurance pls cant wait for part 2
I love that you take into account the body structure of a human and how to create around it.
So so Helpful to keep in mind 🥹🙌🏽✨
Great tutorial.
Thank you!
Yes, cup, please!
Thank you for this great video. Just a question: is there such a thing as a hard-shell mannequin that you could use for making clothes, please? See, I make handsewn, lasted shoes (but interested in making my own corsets as well)- and the first thing that came to my mind was: why not use a resin mannequin, use masking tape and then just cut out the shapes I need (the same way a shoe upper is designed on a last)? Much easier that draping muslin.
I don't know much about shoemaking but generally speaking, shoes are typically built to retain its shape when unworn. Clothes are not built like that, the materials we use for clothes are much thinner, softer, made to fold and put away, made to drape. We need our clothes to move a lot more than the basic hinge of a shoe, even a corset. Garment weight leathers are tanned to be much softer than leathers used for shoes and many accessories. We do not mold fabric to fit the shapes of a body, we cut flat shapes and use seams to curve around the body. This allows for alterations and tailoring also. "Easier" is subjective.
@@zoehongteaches, thank you for your response, Zoe. I appreciate your viewpoint. It keeps reminding me how others see shoes: as stiff objects with hinges. It's something that for me sounds quite alien. For a well-made pair of (handsewn) shoes is closer to a masterpiece in kinetics rather than a a medical cast. Our feet- with 33 joints, 26 bones, and more than a hundred muscles, tendons, and ligaments that all work together- are the most articulated part of the human body. And our shoes should reflect that. That's why I more often than not work with the finest goatskin nappa, brain-tanned buckskin, even kangaroo hides (which happen to be finer and more pliable than most fabrics on the market). Commercial, stiff and unsightly, aka regular shoes are made to fit the machines (that created them) rather than human needs. The factory makes its profit...and the people hobble around the streets in their rigid casts and dream about "the perfect pair" of shoes that is 100% comfortable and does not give them bunions/ plantar fasciitis/ hip and back problems. I strongly believe that shoes can be made without man-made counters, metal shanks and 3 layers of the heaviest veg tan soling. Shoes are- by the very nature of the human anatomy- supposed to be more flexible than any other piece of clothing. More flexible than corsets even. Hence lasting (on a custom last) seems preferable to draping muslin.
Thankyou zoe, loveeeeee you 🇳🇵
You're welcome!
WE NEED THE CUP
Thank you ❤
You’re welcome!
Definitely feel like I need to see the bust draped, this is the area I struggle with the most especially on larger breasted woman x
❤❤ thank u for sharing how to make corset❤❤❤ also i wanna know the size of the dress form? please
Hello, zoe your videos are absolute best I just love how clear and informative videos you share, I have a question I want to start fashion sketching but I'm confuse where to start like should I do fiqure drawing and what about later and what will be the end of it at what point should I stop and just do practice everyday can you reply me please 🥺 and lots of love from my side keep going!🤗.
If you want to really become a good fashion illustrator, yes, start with figure drawing. I have a figure drawing class on my patreon, or you can take a model drawing class local to you. Then learn how to draw clothes on figures. If you only want to learn some basic sketching so you can communicate your fashion designs, just buy some figure templates and jump to drawing clothes. I also have a drawing clothes on bodies class on Patreon and I have assorted videos here on the channel.
@@zoehongteaches thank you so much ♥️ I was so confuse 🥺 lots of love ♥️♥️✨.
I have a question for you about variations. How would you alter the pattern to make, let’s say, a peplum along the bottom? Would you go into the draping process with the intention of leaving extra fabric to make the peplum or would you add the peplum after you’ve done your initial draping?
I would drape the peplum after I finished draping the corset pieces. If I was doing a shirred ruffle, I would probably make the ruffle out of muslin, pin it to the rest of the corset drape. If I want the corset to be long and skirt-like towards the bottom, without a horizontal seam, I could drape the whole piece or add length and fullness to the pattern.
@@zoehongteaches That makes sense. Thank you!
11:14 obviously... get filming lady... I mean yes please auntie, that would be wonderful 😅
Watch your tone *smacks desk with my ruler (hahaha~)
Thank you for sharing.i would like to ask if I can use this same method for a lower back corset
Yes!
@@zoehongteaches thank you
Hi Zoe! Do you offer one on one meetings? I would love your input on some career decisions. Thank you!
Yes. calendly.com/zoe-hong
Are you putting in a 2-3 inch lacing gap on the back panel?
Including modesty panel. too?
Thanks
I like the sliver of skin in the back. Lacing gap, yes. Modesty panel, no.
@zoehongteaches Cool, I don't like modesty panels either! If a client wants it, I will make one. I have antique corsets in my collection. They don't have them either.
😄
Can you please turn on visiting other sites so that we can watch with Farsi subtitles
6:51 🤣
❤❤❤❤
Ma please i want know how to sew after draping please 🥺🥺😢
Yes to bra cup draping
Posted today!
😅...all those good things...
Would you make a corset for a guy?
Why not?