The build wasn't hard, just long and tedious. I use these for commercial purposes so time is money and that small dollar amount is WAY worth it. I love all my other printers but that Prusa is just a chef's kiss. I just wish they made a larger one with the same quality. BTW, thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
I have been using mine for half year now. The only upgrade I am considering is adding a Revo for the quickswap nozzles and I have printed a backplate for the LCD screen (as it's just a bare PCB there.) It's been running so well.
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. The Prusa is my go to printer, I just wish they made one with a REALLY big build plate. I printed all my parts for a life size BD-1 (from Star Wars) on it. The only thing that wouldn't fit was the head. I'll have to use Kobra Max for that.
I ordered one recently and can’t wait, I can’t afford to buy their prusament filament because it’s £15 delivery on top of the price of the filament. Currently using Esun PLA+ for most things. What filament do you use that you find to be of good quality and readily available online?
I use, almost exclusively, Overture PETG from Amazon. I like PETG because I print parts that I sell online and for my animatronic/robotics projects, I like the strength it offers. I just used the Prusa Mini+ to print all the parts of my life sized BD-1 droid from Star Wars, I couldn't ask for better prints!
Absolutely! This is now my go to printer for small parts. The quality of the prints is perfect. I just wish Prusa made a large bed version with type of quality. I believe that the results they get is a healthy combination of a quality machine along with an excellent slicing program.
I had never hear of that brand and did a quick search. Very interesting since the price is way lower than Prusa's. I may have to order one in and see what it's like. You are not helping with my 3D printer addiction problem :)
@@TheMakersCave I have 6.. Anycubic Kossel Linear, Prusa MK3S+, Fysetc Mini Clone, Voxlab Resin and a Voron 2.4 350mm.. oh, and a Makerfarm I3 (woody) and just ordered a ratrig Vcore 400. If you find a cure.. share it please ;)
@@TheMakersCave Be carefull with the Fysetc clones (or any clones). I have 4 of them (and one original). The clones came with a PTFE lined heatbreak. But the firmware is the one for the original Prusa mini - using all metal heatbreak. So the temperatures allowed can actually degrade the PTFE into toxic fumes, if you for example do a wrong click and preheat for nylon instead for PETG. So I upgraded my clones to the bondtech heatbreak. No big deal, but there are other downsides, like the quality of the chineese bearings. It is a bit more tinkering to use the clones, do not only look for the price. On the other hand if you like to tinker and change parts on the printer anyways, a clone is a good base. For example I upgraded to dual-z, Revo Micro, direct drive (Trianglelabs Big Gears Extruder) and to diferent bushings (bed: 2 Igus and one Ruthex, printhead: 1 sintered bronce + 1 self designed bushing printed in iglidur i150). Actually quite some improvements and I realy lowe it (I definitly will convert my original prusa mini also). Still, part cooling could be better - have not found the optimal solution now. Still, all the updates do not effect the eco system: all profiles still work well. Of course, having direct extruder I can reduce retraction length. But original profiles still work.
So you assembled this whole thing from scratch and did a great job! And the first print you make it goes wrong 😅. I am sorry butt you shouldn’t use the smooth sheet that comes along with your mini for PETG you will eventually ruin your sheet. PETG sticks to well on a smooth sheet. You either use a glue stick or better get yourself the textured or satin sheet from Prusa.
Actually the whistle and the PIR box came out perfect, and then, off camera the next day things went left. I didn’t read that the plate wasn’t for PETG and as you said I ruined the plate. Bought a textured flex plate from Amazon and my prints are stunning. Love this printer.
Semi-assembled also means that you aren't familiar with the machine to disassemble and repair or maintain it. If you want to understand the machine, the kit is actually the only option that makes sense. The build is very easy and WELL worth the knowledge of the machine that is imparted by the build process. Add the money saved on top of that and the kit is simply a no brainer. Anyone who doesn't have the mechanical ability to follow the extremely simple instructions and put this printer together is probably getting in over their head with 3d printing in the first place.
Thank you for watching. I agree with many of your points which I stated in the video. I said if you want to know exactly how a machine works and why the kit will help. The cost to time ratio is an opinion. Right now the difference is even less then when I made the video, it's now only $30 difference between the kit and the semi-assembled. For me, personally, $30 is well worth the shorter unboxing to production time. I also don't like to blanket gatekeep technology, you can certainly buy a printer and have fun without knowing how it was constructed. To a mechanic assembling a car is easy to follow so should he feel that since a person doesn't know how an engine explicitly works they should not be driving the car?
@@TheMakersCave You can have fun with a car without knowing how it operates or how to repair it. When you don't know a thing about the car, you can take it to a mechanic, they are located EVERYWHERE. When you don't know a thing about your 3d printer, you're just left begging for help from strangers on the internet. That's kind of an apples and oranges comparison in reality. Taking some really big leaps into ridiculousness with that one. I never said no one should be allowed to operate a 3d printer unless they build it. I'm not sure where you got that impression at all. You went from agreeing with me in your first sentence, to putting words in my mouth to make my point look ridiculous in your last sentence. How was that logical, necessary, or polite by any stretch of the imagination, my friend?
@@katrinacraftical Capitalizing words is for EMPHAIS, you are free to take it anyway that you want, however. Mechanics carry certifications and ratings with the BBB, online reviews, and have an easy to find reputation, and if you don't know how to work on your own car, odds are that you already have a mechanic that you know and trust. Strangers on the internet, however, are complete unknowns. It's not rocket science, it's simple common sense and the less known critical thinking. I understand, in this day and age, how confusing they can be though.
I can understand where you're coming from, but the build took several days and quite a few hours each day. The video would have been humongous so I opted for what you saw. I've been thinking of just posting the raw footage and if viewers want to sit through all those build hours they can.
Maybe don't title it "assembly" and not show the assembly. We aren't all expecting an exciting dance video. And trust me, fast forward is always an option :)
Half the viewers want a quick and dirty video, and the other half, like yourself, want the time laboring details. I tried to find a good balance with this video. I knew it would take a while but I had no idea it would take THAT LONG! Terrific printer though, worth every penny.
Great video, i'm a total newbie and this was very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
You are not kidding about the $30.00 being a time saver! I didn't comprehend the difference until I got it.
The build wasn't hard, just long and tedious. I use these for commercial purposes so time is money and that small dollar amount is WAY worth it. I love all my other printers but that Prusa is just a chef's kiss. I just wish they made a larger one with the same quality. BTW, thanks for watching, I really appreciate it.
If I could do it again semi-assembled is the way to go. Took me 2-3 full evenings!
That's what I said. Especially if you're buying these for commercial work, time is money.
I have been using mine for half year now. The only upgrade I am considering is adding a Revo for the quickswap nozzles and I have printed a backplate for the LCD screen (as it's just a bare PCB there.) It's been running so well.
Thanks for watching, I really appreciate it. The Prusa is my go to printer, I just wish they made one with a REALLY big build plate. I printed all my parts for a life size BD-1 (from Star Wars) on it. The only thing that wouldn't fit was the head. I'll have to use Kobra Max for that.
Hey enjoyed your review. You’ll love the mk3s and now the mk4.
I'm already looking at the MK4!
wow steve thats was kool nice buddy keep them coming
Thanks 👍
I ordered one recently and can’t wait, I can’t afford to buy their prusament filament because it’s £15 delivery on top of the price of the filament.
Currently using Esun PLA+ for most things. What filament do you use that you find to be of good quality and readily available online?
I use, almost exclusively, Overture PETG from Amazon. I like PETG because I print parts that I sell online and for my animatronic/robotics projects, I like the strength it offers. I just used the Prusa Mini+ to print all the parts of my life sized BD-1 droid from Star Wars, I couldn't ask for better prints!
What you think worth getting one
Absolutely! This is now my go to printer for small parts. The quality of the prints is perfect. I just wish Prusa made a large bed version with type of quality. I believe that the results they get is a healthy combination of a quality machine along with an excellent slicing program.
Your Bed axis looks to be quite skewed, you might want to try to adjust it to prevent any issues further down the line.
Must be how it looks on video, they’re fine and it prints great.
Great review.. now get a FysEtc clone mini and do a side by side.. Apples to Apples
I had never hear of that brand and did a quick search. Very interesting since the price is way lower than Prusa's. I may have to order one in and see what it's like. You are not helping with my 3D printer addiction problem :)
@@TheMakersCave I have 6.. Anycubic Kossel Linear, Prusa MK3S+, Fysetc Mini Clone, Voxlab Resin and a Voron 2.4 350mm.. oh, and a Makerfarm I3 (woody) and just ordered a ratrig Vcore 400. If you find a cure.. share it please ;)
@@TheMakersCave any update on this???? :D
@@TheMakersCave Be carefull with the Fysetc clones (or any clones). I have 4 of them (and one original). The clones came with a PTFE lined heatbreak. But the firmware is the one for the original Prusa mini - using all metal heatbreak. So the temperatures allowed can actually degrade the PTFE into toxic fumes, if you for example do a wrong click and preheat for nylon instead for PETG.
So I upgraded my clones to the bondtech heatbreak. No big deal, but there are other downsides, like the quality of the chineese bearings. It is a bit more tinkering to use the clones, do not only look for the price.
On the other hand if you like to tinker and change parts on the printer anyways, a clone is a good base. For example I upgraded to dual-z, Revo Micro, direct drive (Trianglelabs Big Gears Extruder) and to diferent bushings (bed: 2 Igus and one Ruthex, printhead: 1 sintered bronce + 1 self designed bushing printed in iglidur i150). Actually quite some improvements and I realy lowe it (I definitly will convert my original prusa mini also). Still, part cooling could be better - have not found the optimal solution now.
Still, all the updates do not effect the eco system: all profiles still work well. Of course, having direct extruder I can reduce retraction length. But original profiles still work.
Merci beaucoup !!!!!
Le -1.300 (axe Z) est la valeur parfaite pour mon mini +
So you assembled this whole thing from scratch and did a great job!
And the first print you make it goes wrong 😅. I am sorry butt you shouldn’t use the smooth sheet that comes along with your mini for PETG you will eventually ruin your sheet. PETG sticks to well on a smooth sheet. You either use a glue stick or better get yourself the textured or satin sheet from Prusa.
Actually the whistle and the PIR box came out perfect, and then, off camera the next day things went left. I didn’t read that the plate wasn’t for PETG and as you said I ruined the plate. Bought a textured flex plate from Amazon and my prints are stunning. Love this printer.
Semi-assembled also means that you aren't familiar with the machine to disassemble and repair or maintain it. If you want to understand the machine, the kit is actually the only option that makes sense. The build is very easy and WELL worth the knowledge of the machine that is imparted by the build process. Add the money saved on top of that and the kit is simply a no brainer.
Anyone who doesn't have the mechanical ability to follow the extremely simple instructions and put this printer together is probably getting in over their head with 3d printing in the first place.
Thank you for watching. I agree with many of your points which I stated in the video.
I said if you want to know exactly how a machine works and why the kit will help. The cost to time ratio is an opinion. Right now the difference is even less then when I made the video, it's now only $30 difference between the kit and the semi-assembled. For me, personally, $30 is well worth the shorter unboxing to production time. I also don't like to blanket gatekeep technology, you can certainly buy a printer and have fun without knowing how it was constructed. To a mechanic assembling a car is easy to follow so should he feel that since a person doesn't know how an engine explicitly works they should not be driving the car?
@@TheMakersCave You can have fun with a car without knowing how it operates or how to repair it. When you don't know a thing about the car, you can take it to a mechanic, they are located EVERYWHERE. When you don't know a thing about your 3d printer, you're just left begging for help from strangers on the internet. That's kind of an apples and oranges comparison in reality. Taking some really big leaps into ridiculousness with that one. I never said no one should be allowed to operate a 3d printer unless they build it. I'm not sure where you got that impression at all. You went from agreeing with me in your first sentence, to putting words in my mouth to make my point look ridiculous in your last sentence. How was that logical, necessary, or polite by any stretch of the imagination, my friend?
@@katrinacraftical Capitalizing words is for EMPHAIS, you are free to take it anyway that you want, however. Mechanics carry certifications and ratings with the BBB, online reviews, and have an easy to find reputation, and if you don't know how to work on your own car, odds are that you already have a mechanic that you know and trust. Strangers on the internet, however, are complete unknowns. It's not rocket science, it's simple common sense and the less known critical thinking. I understand, in this day and age, how confusing they can be though.
Assembly? that's why I came here.
Please change the title.
I can understand where you're coming from, but the build took several days and quite a few hours each day. The video would have been humongous so I opted for what you saw. I've been thinking of just posting the raw footage and if viewers want to sit through all those build hours they can.
Maybe don't title it "assembly" and not show the assembly. We aren't all expecting an exciting dance video. And trust me, fast forward is always an option :)
Half the viewers want a quick and dirty video, and the other half, like yourself, want the time laboring details. I tried to find a good balance with this video. I knew it would take a while but I had no idea it would take THAT LONG! Terrific printer though, worth every penny.