Sierra Giant Scale offers some excellent equipment! Sweet build! edit: I really liked watching you sheeting the fillets. That is a place where a little extra attention really pays off. Really great series that You and Frank are doing! Thanks :)
thanks mate loving you're build videos , I like to see how you deal with everything that arises on the build , we all have our little ways of dealing with build issues, very enjoyable, I build balsa models also, from Tony from Bedfordshire England
A good 3- unit college course on the little assembly details we have all had to work out over the years, as they are not generally documented else where.
Great Work Bayona! Your attention to detail is amazing, my attention to detail wasn't good I watched your videos and told myself this is embarrassing I have to get it together, I went as far as removing the old wood sheeting on my Top Flight Cessna's wing and re-did it with new wood ofcourse I measured washout before I removed anything, will have a new video of my restored reconditioned Top Flight Cessna up soon.
@@BayonasRCWorld Bayona I've got a question for you there are a couple of low spots in the wings sheeting, I've sanded the spots to try and level them out but they aren't levelling, I know that they will show real bad under monokote, do you have any ideas or suggestions on what to do with these low spots? The first thing that comes to mind is filler, I've had mixed results with filler in the past, I've never used balsa filler, I've used lightweight spackle and it's quite difficult to get good results with it, I've used wood filler and it would feather out good to the naked eye but under monokote it clearly shows, any suggestions would be appreciated.
@@adelaseeri768 low spots especially in the wing sheeting is normally from a sag or bowing in-between the ribs where sheeting has no back support. This is why I use My T bar sanders or something straight to press and lay my sheeting onto the wing during gluing. You will never be able to sand this out without thinning the surrounding sheeting causing more issues. You can try soaking the area with water and then apply heat via sealing iron keeping it flat. This should shrink and or raise the sheeting somewhat slightly or possibly making it straight. For large areas I don't suggest the use of wood filler! Worst case scenario is to cut out the area if really bad and resheet it.
@@BayonasRCWorld I actually went through the effort of raising low spots on the ribs before sheeting by adding balsa to those spots and sanding them out, I went over every rib carefully I think it wasn't enough, it's not real bad it's not swimming pool in those spots however as you know with Monokote it will show ×10, I will try water and an iron, I will cut out that spot if it doesn't work out and add some new wood, thank you again.
Great build. Im in the process of building one and following your video. I have a question. What glue are you using when you full sheet the tops of the wings. I use to use medium ca but it cures to fast.
In this video I used ZAP medium CA to sheet the wing panels. On my Cessna 182 I used titebond III wood glue and held down the sheeting with stacks of Model magazines. When using medium CA you just have to work quickly therefore have everything set like how I performed it in the video with tap holding the sheeting. Hope this gives alittle more insight.
@BayonasRCWorld yes this does help. I have used medium lots before but have had some un glued areas before. Going to give that wood glue a try. Thanks for the advice. And great builds and great channel and build. I will watch them all for sure. Thanks again.
Hi Mike, I’m building the TF P40. I’m sheeting the wing and confused about when to glue the dowel. On page 25, point 3, it says to place the dowel in the hole but don’t glue it yet. Can’t find anymore info. To me, both the wing center and fuse center are fixed points. No mystery. I’d rather epoxy the dowel before fully sheeting. Later Adjustments with the wing saddle can be made with sanding away or building up the saddle. What do you think? Warren
Page 36 is basically when you fit the 5/16" dowel into the wing center secured with 30 min Epoxy just before you mount the wing onto the fuse to align it and drill out the wing bolt holes.
You can install the dowel before sheeting as well as long as your leading edge wing center block is even and straight with the dowel rib opening you will not have any issues installing the dowel after wing is fully sheeted.
This makes me want to restore my old Twist 60. The covering is flaking off. If I took off the old covering would I have to do anything to the balsa to make the monokote stick?
Just a light sanding depending on the removal process or outcome. If leftover residue like covering adhesive, balsa lifting etc.. The main thing is having a smooth surface for the new covering to adhere too.
@@jasonBucao671 all depends! If you have enough gap in between the control surface then you can still apply covering with the use of trim sealing iron and flat spade. As long as you can get the covering off and apply new then hinges can be left on. If not then you can leave the covering at the trailing edge hinge area and just iron the new covering onto it. Provided the covering there is still good and no oil etc.
@@BayonasRCWorld well I just got my first kit to build. I been wanting to tackle this challenge for years. I scored on a new 40 size uproar from year 2000. Gonna use all the tips from your videos
Yes it will work however you will loose the scale look at the cowl because you would have to cut your cowling to clear the side exhaust. The DLE20RA is perfect for the exhaust exits at the bottom rear keeping the sides of the cowl for scale lines
Unfortunately I do not! I figured it was a waste of time since it is just basic. Now you make me wish I did touch on it. Anyway do you have any questions regarding the tray or having issues. Please let me know and I will see if I can explain or give you ideas.
Work of art
Thank you for watching.
Sierra Giant Scale offers some excellent equipment! Sweet build!
edit: I really liked watching you sheeting the fillets. That is a place where a little extra attention really pays off. Really great series that You and Frank are doing! Thanks :)
thanks mate loving you're build videos , I like to see how you deal with everything that arises on the build , we all have our little ways of dealing with build issues, very enjoyable, I build balsa models also, from Tony from Bedfordshire England
So awesome! Thank you for the comment. Happy building my friend
You the man, I wish people would take heart on what you're presenting 🤔
Thanks a bunch for the kind words
Way to go Chelu ! Awesome progression !
I Gotta see this one FLY Man...
Right on Chelu! Once all Is done I will post it in my FB group of the maiden day.
Wow great video you are doing a super job...Looking forward to the next vid.
Thanks brother!
Regardless if one is building the same kit, you’re demonstrating a lot of super useful transferable skills,As always great craftsmanship!
Roger that!
Outstanding video and presentation.
Thank you for your kind words. 🙏 😇
@@BayonasRCWorld I have the P40 Top flite. Thank you for the tips. This will help with my build.
Thanks for another great, informative video. Lots of good information in it to help out the novice builder. Your P-40 is looking awesome! 👍👍🤙🤙
Thanks brother!
AWESOME MON...
Been a long time brother! What projects you got going on today?
Thank you I have one I'm starting to build your help is awesome 👌
A good 3- unit college course on the little assembly details we have all had to work out over the years, as they are not generally documented else where.
Yeah I put in a lot of hours for sure which might be equivalent to a 5 unit course to be honest! hehehehehehehe
Great Work Bayona! Your attention to detail is amazing, my attention to detail wasn't good I watched your videos and told myself this is embarrassing I have to get it together, I went as far as removing the old wood sheeting on my Top Flight Cessna's wing and re-did it with new wood ofcourse I measured washout before I removed anything, will have a new video of my restored reconditioned Top Flight Cessna up soon.
I would love to watch it when it is ready
@@BayonasRCWorld Bayona I've got a question for you there are a couple of low spots in the wings sheeting, I've sanded the spots to try and level them out but they aren't levelling, I know that they will show real bad under monokote, do you have any ideas or suggestions on what to do with these low spots? The first thing that comes to mind is filler, I've had mixed results with filler in the past, I've never used balsa filler, I've used lightweight spackle and it's quite difficult to get good results with it, I've used wood filler and it would feather out good to the naked eye but under monokote it clearly shows, any suggestions would be appreciated.
@@adelaseeri768 low spots especially in the wing sheeting is normally from a sag or bowing in-between the ribs where sheeting has no back support. This is why I use My T bar sanders or something straight to press and lay my sheeting onto the wing during gluing. You will never be able to sand this out without thinning the surrounding sheeting causing more issues. You can try soaking the area with water and then apply heat via sealing iron keeping it flat. This should shrink and or raise the sheeting somewhat slightly or possibly making it straight. For large areas I don't suggest the use of wood filler! Worst case scenario is to cut out the area if really bad and resheet it.
@@BayonasRCWorld I actually went through the effort of raising low spots on the ribs before sheeting by adding balsa to those spots and sanding them out, I went over every rib carefully I think it wasn't enough, it's not real bad it's not swimming pool in those spots however as you know with Monokote it will show ×10, I will try water and an iron, I will cut out that spot if it doesn't work out and add some new wood, thank you again.
@@adelaseeri768 yeah! Sometime it happens and yes with any covering that is glossy will show or expose all low spots and imperfections.
Great build. Im in the process of building one and following your video.
I have a question. What glue are you using when you full sheet the tops of the wings. I use to use medium ca but it cures to fast.
In this video I used ZAP medium CA to sheet the wing panels. On my Cessna 182 I used titebond III wood glue and held down the sheeting with stacks of Model magazines. When using medium CA you just have to work quickly therefore have everything set like how I performed it in the video with tap holding the sheeting. Hope this gives alittle more insight.
@BayonasRCWorld yes this does help. I have used medium lots before but have had some un glued areas before.
Going to give that wood glue a try.
Thanks for the advice. And great builds and great channel and build. I will watch them all for sure. Thanks again.
Hi Mike, I’m building the TF P40. I’m sheeting the wing and confused about when to glue the dowel. On page 25, point 3, it says to place the dowel in the hole but don’t glue it yet. Can’t find anymore info.
To me, both the wing center and fuse center are fixed points. No mystery. I’d rather epoxy the dowel before fully sheeting. Later Adjustments with the wing saddle can be made with sanding away or building up the saddle.
What do you think?
Warren
Page 36 is basically when you fit the 5/16" dowel into the wing center secured with 30 min
Epoxy just before you mount the wing onto the fuse to align it and drill out the wing bolt holes.
You can install the dowel before sheeting as well as long as your leading edge wing center block is even and straight with the dowel rib opening you will not have any issues installing the dowel after wing is fully sheeted.
Thank you. I can figure it out
This makes me want to restore my old Twist 60. The covering is flaking off. If I took off the old covering would I have to do anything to the balsa to make the monokote stick?
Just a light sanding depending on the removal process or outcome. If leftover residue like covering adhesive, balsa lifting etc.. The main thing is having a smooth surface for the new covering to adhere too.
@@BayonasRCWorld would I have to cut the old hinges off to get to the edges? Or can it be done without taking hinges off? thanks
@@jasonBucao671 all depends! If you have enough gap in between the control surface then you can still apply covering with the use of trim sealing iron and flat spade. As long as you can get the covering off and apply new then hinges can be left on. If not then you can leave the covering at the trailing edge hinge area and just iron the new covering onto it. Provided the covering there is still good and no oil etc.
@@BayonasRCWorld well I just got my first kit to build. I been wanting to tackle this challenge for years. I scored on a new 40 size uproar from year 2000. Gonna use all the tips from your videos
Do you think the DLE20 side exhaust version would work in this model ? I have the kit and parts just need the engine now.
Yes it will work however you will loose the scale look at the cowl because you would have to cut your cowling to clear the side exhaust. The DLE20RA is perfect for the exhaust exits at the bottom rear keeping the sides of the cowl for scale lines
Okay thanks. Not going to buy this one then. Saw a good deal on one, but I'm going the distance. Thanks again @Bayona's RC World
What size spinner did you use? Manual says 4" but I feel like that is too big.
A 4" dia spinner is what I used. Tru Turn Ultimate 4" Spinner cut for a 3 blade prop.
@@BayonasRCWorld ok thanks. I have a Miracle three blade 4"! Should be ok then
where do you buy your kits from, it's getting so hard to find balsa airplane kits!!
Most of the kits I get is either from RC airplane build groups, eBay or small businesses like planesgoneby.com/
you got any photos of the gas tank tray and the build of it
Unfortunately I do not! I figured it was a waste of time since it is just basic. Now you make me wish I did touch on it. Anyway do you have any questions regarding the tray or having issues. Please let me know and I will see if I can explain or give you ideas.
@@BayonasRCWorld I thinl I got it figured out. Thanks
Where did you get your spinner from?
I ordered it directly from Tru-Turn
they told me to be careful with the lube i put on the 25MM. except for a third eyeball, i’m good to go!