For you maverick deck, add 1 veterancy to the pioneer, the pz4 leader, the grille, the marder and the Ju87. Your AT tab is not well balanced. You have light and medium AT in A and heavy and super heavy AT in B. Either complement that with an 88mm AA in A or change your AT tab. I would put a halftrack on the A phase pz gren and put back the one in C without halftrack. I would replace the B phase pz4 with the IS2 or move it to C. I'd rather take the SK18 with 1 vet or the wufhramen instead of the 150 but that is more debatable. Normal (non AT) sutkas are great. They force your opponent to bring an AA piece that is probably more expensive and they can pay off very quickly since they are super cheap for their loadouts.
@@mimile4462 Yeah it isn‘t very good. I didn’t actually take time to build a good mav deck before recording and it was meant to show what kind of changes you are looking for rather than making a complete optimal deck. Which is actually stupid considering that I haven‘t really added that disclaimer. I will pin your comment to the top as it is a very good one. I‘ve had success with the AT so far (assuming your talking about it in general not for mav specifically) because there usually aren‘t that many Panthers and Tigers in A and the Panzer 4 is there to help as well (not against panthers and tigers of course). That being said, I usually use the 88 in my deck and the Gepard here was kind of an idea of the moment. I haven‘t actually needed the 88s for AT very often though. 100% agree on the pz gren. For mav I personally like to put the DP there though. Once again, an issue with what I mentioned above. For the IS2 there is a good reason to not take it in this guide and this is the only point here where I think you‘re actually wrong. Yes the IS2 is good and I personally use it as well. However, this is aimed at newer players who often can‘t use it well. So for the beginning I would not recommend them to use it, I think I also mentioned this as well. For the Ju-87 i 100% agree but so far I have felt like the Go covers that role already so there is no need for the Ju-87 as well. So I‘m very curious to hear your opinion on this! But overall I would say that I brought this guide out a bit too early and it could have profited from some more time being spent on it. I think it is overall still good but with a guide i want it to be as good as possible and this one could be better.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Regarding the AT, you don't have long range AT in A and that can be a significant weakness on some maps (it is not going to be an issue all the time). Yeah I also like having the pzgren DP in C with maverick. It is a tough choice. Having them in A gives more versalitily early on which is also good. Yeah you gave good reasons for the IS2. I think people who want to learn have to make mistakes to learn. If they don't take the IS2, they should still move the PZ4 to C. There is enough stuff in B + what will remain from A to not need that card then. Yeah the Go already does that a bit but the Go can't do damage like the Ju87 can, and can be forced back by 50cals on sherman, M10 and halftracks. I think that Ju87 are too good to pass, especially since you don't have a good alternative (the Bf109 is too lightly armed to be useful). Your guide is good overall, I am just adding a few things.
@@mimile4462 Yeah it makes sense, I probably should change it. Fair this is a very good point, maybe it's better not to recommend new players not to use the IS2. Yeah, you're right with the PZ4. Good point there, I didn't factor the .50cals in so it makes sense that you might want to take the Go and the Ju87. So you would just ditch the Bf109 entirely and replace it with the Ju87? Thanks for the comments, I appreciate discussions like this.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Yeah the bf109 is not really useful. A single 250kg bomb will fail to kill support guns with many men (aka, the juicy targets you want to use your bombers for). I general, I think that bombers with less than 300kg of bombs do not have enough killing power to be used (except recon bombers).
Oh boy, i finished that late in the evening and now realized that it has so many spelling errors😂 Sorry for this. I probably rushed these guides a bit too much😬
Something that many people miss is that you can bring the aufklarer with the kubel MG, wich is the best spotting vehicle in the game, so basically for 5 extra points one the one vet aufklarer card you get 6 good recon units instead of 3. Just put the kubel in yellow forest and on return fire, or it can also company your tanks to spot for them.
@@SVP-uy9qb This is a very good point and something that I usualy do as well. I actually talked about it in the long version, no idea why I forgot it here.
@@marcuscarman1854 Happy to hear this. Unfortunatly I have no plans for a tier list at the moment but who knows what the future will bring. It‘s not that I don‘t think it would be fun but for a lot of dividions I lack the experience with them.
My initial thought was to swap the Panzer variants: with 65mm frontal, even lighter AT could get some lucky pens in whereas 75mm can bounce it more safely. Later you will encounter more proper AT which - as you said - don't care about the armor difference. Or am I off the books here? Other than that interesting talk for me as a player who is not new but not good and newer players (I will send this to a friend who just got the game).
@@malteschaper3782 This is a valid argument as well. Imo you can argue for both phases. The reason for this is that if you use the PZ4 for the ranges where you cannot use the PZ3 the light AT should not be an issue anyway. At the same time if the PZ3 struggles in a closer range area i’d rather send a PZ4G than a PZ4H thete. For the simple reason that compaired to allied medium tanks PZ4 tend to do not as good in towns and closer areas in generall, so at least pying less for the G is nice there. Now you might encounter light AT but most likely it will be another tank because that‘s why you bring the PZ4G over the PZ3 in the first place. And with the PZ3 this will more likely be the case than with the T-34. Lastly I prefer to have cheaper units in the phases where my income is lowest. But as I said, your argument is totally valid here as well and you could very well take the PZ4G in B phase instead. Another advantage of doing so is that you actually save more points overall due the higher numbers you get in B compared to A.
@@LeprechauninmyBoxorz It depends. In my opinion often not because you have very limited numbers. But Mimile sees this differently so you should probably listen to him. For me this depends on the income and how many you get. A stuh 42 (2 units) in A phase I wouldn‘t vet. A grille in A (4 units) for balanced not, for mav I think you can because 3 should be enough. Also very important is this, a top player like mimile is generally very good at keeping these essential units alive. A newer player is in most cases not and should therefore, at least in my opinion, rather take them without vet. I wouldn‘t say that this is true for every unit type though but I feel like 2k assets do their job good enough without vet. So this is why I disagree with mimile here while I also think he is 100% correct, because for some decisions the skill of the player is a factor as well.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Yeah it heavily depends on the map, income, skill level and if you are playing in a tournament or not. For what I am used to (50min time limit, maverick) 3 grille is enough. That is probably not the case for a player who is playing quickplay/ranked
@@CommanderOwlFtunk I've been playing a lot of 9th Panzer lately in the queue, which only gets one card of Grille's --- 4 counts unvetted in A, 2 counts with one vet, but if you bring them in B you can get 6 with one vet. I play Balanced in the quick play. Is 2k HE that important in A to skip on the vet and still have spare Grille's for the rest of the game?
@@LeprechauninmyBoxorz I would say yes. Of course the real answer is it depends. On some maps and in some matchups it won't be an issue, in other cases it might. But when you play in the queue you newer know which one it's going to be. In my opinion, as long as something performs well enough without vet, taking it earlier is more important than adding vet if that role can not be filled otherwise. You have to remember that A phase, especially the first few minutes, can have a big influence on the rest of the game. And sometimes it is also not about there being issues with you not having it but rather you missing out on an advantage that you could have.
For you maverick deck, add 1 veterancy to the pioneer, the pz4 leader, the grille, the marder and the Ju87.
Your AT tab is not well balanced. You have light and medium AT in A and heavy and super heavy AT in B. Either complement that with an 88mm AA in A or change your AT tab.
I would put a halftrack on the A phase pz gren and put back the one in C without halftrack.
I would replace the B phase pz4 with the IS2 or move it to C.
I'd rather take the SK18 with 1 vet or the wufhramen instead of the 150 but that is more debatable.
Normal (non AT) sutkas are great. They force your opponent to bring an AA piece that is probably more expensive and they can pay off very quickly since they are super cheap for their loadouts.
@@mimile4462 Yeah it isn‘t very good. I didn’t actually take time to build a good mav deck before recording and it was meant to show what kind of changes you are looking for rather than making a complete optimal deck. Which is actually stupid considering that I haven‘t really added that disclaimer. I will pin your comment to the top as it is a very good one.
I‘ve had success with the AT so far (assuming your talking about it in general not for mav specifically) because there usually aren‘t that many Panthers and Tigers in A and the Panzer 4 is there to help as well (not against panthers and tigers of course). That being said, I usually use the 88 in my deck and the Gepard here was kind of an idea of the moment. I haven‘t actually needed the 88s for AT very often though.
100% agree on the pz gren. For mav I personally like to put the DP there though. Once again, an issue with what I mentioned above.
For the IS2 there is a good reason to not take it in this guide and this is the only point here where I think you‘re actually wrong. Yes the IS2 is good and I personally use it as well. However, this is aimed at newer players who often can‘t use it well. So for the beginning I would not recommend them to use it, I think I also mentioned this as well.
For the Ju-87 i 100% agree but so far I have felt like the Go covers that role already so there is no need for the Ju-87 as well. So I‘m very curious to hear your opinion on this!
But overall I would say that I brought this guide out a bit too early and it could have profited from some
more time being spent on it. I think it is overall still good but with a guide i want it to be as good as possible and this one could be better.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Regarding the AT, you don't have long range AT in A and that can be a significant weakness on some maps (it is not going to be an issue all the time).
Yeah I also like having the pzgren DP in C with maverick. It is a tough choice. Having them in A gives more versalitily early on which is also good.
Yeah you gave good reasons for the IS2. I think people who want to learn have to make mistakes to learn. If they don't take the IS2, they should still move the PZ4 to C. There is enough stuff in B + what will remain from A to not need that card then.
Yeah the Go already does that a bit but the Go can't do damage like the Ju87 can, and can be forced back by 50cals on sherman, M10 and halftracks. I think that Ju87 are too good to pass, especially since you don't have a good alternative (the Bf109 is too lightly armed to be useful).
Your guide is good overall, I am just adding a few things.
@@mimile4462 Yeah it makes sense, I probably should change it.
Fair this is a very good point, maybe it's better not to recommend new players not to use the IS2. Yeah, you're right with the PZ4.
Good point there, I didn't factor the .50cals in so it makes sense that you might want to take the Go and the Ju87. So you would just ditch the Bf109 entirely and replace it with the Ju87?
Thanks for the comments, I appreciate discussions like this.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Yeah the bf109 is not really useful. A single 250kg bomb will fail to kill support guns with many men (aka, the juicy targets you want to use your bombers for). I general, I think that bombers with less than 300kg of bombs do not have enough killing power to be used (except recon bombers).
Oh boy, i finished that late in the evening and now realized that it has so many spelling errors😂 Sorry for this. I probably rushed these guides a bit too much😬
Commenting for the Algorithm. We need all the good SD2 content we can get.
@@BlitkriegsAndCoffee Thanks, it is very much appreciated :)
Something that many people miss is that you can bring the aufklarer with the kubel MG, wich is the best spotting vehicle in the game, so basically for 5 extra points one the one vet aufklarer card you get 6 good recon units instead of 3. Just put the kubel in yellow forest and on return fire, or it can also company your tanks to spot for them.
@@SVP-uy9qb This is a very good point and something that I usualy do as well. I actually talked about it in the long version, no idea why I forgot it here.
I love guides like this, you should also do a tier list on the best divisions
@@marcuscarman1854 Happy to hear this. Unfortunatly I have no plans for a tier list at the moment but who knows what the future will bring.
It‘s not that I don‘t think it would be fun but for a lot of dividions I lack the experience with them.
My initial thought was to swap the Panzer variants: with 65mm frontal, even lighter AT could get some lucky pens in whereas 75mm can bounce it more safely. Later you will encounter more proper AT which - as you said - don't care about the armor difference. Or am I off the books here?
Other than that interesting talk for me as a player who is not new but not good and newer players (I will send this to a friend who just got the game).
@@malteschaper3782 This is a valid argument as well. Imo you can argue for both phases.
The reason for this is that if you use the PZ4 for the ranges where you cannot use the PZ3 the light AT should not be an issue anyway. At the same time if the PZ3 struggles in a closer range area i’d rather send a PZ4G than a PZ4H thete. For the simple reason that compaired to allied medium tanks PZ4 tend to do not as good in towns and closer areas in generall, so at least pying less for the G is nice there.
Now you might encounter light AT but most likely it will be another tank because that‘s why you bring the PZ4G over the PZ3 in the first place. And with the PZ3 this will more likely be the case than with the T-34.
Lastly I prefer to have cheaper units in the phases where my income is lowest.
But as I said, your argument is totally valid here as well and you could very well take the PZ4G in B phase instead.
Another advantage of doing so is that you actually save more points overall due the higher numbers you get in B compared to A.
Do you think vetting 2k HE units like the Grille to be worth it?
In most cases yes
@@LeprechauninmyBoxorz It depends. In my opinion often not because you have very limited numbers. But Mimile sees this differently so you should probably listen to him.
For me this depends on the income and how many you get. A stuh 42 (2 units) in A phase I wouldn‘t vet. A grille in A (4 units) for balanced not, for mav I think you can because 3 should be enough.
Also very important is this, a top player like mimile is generally very good at keeping these essential units alive. A newer player is in most cases not and should therefore, at least in my opinion, rather take them without vet. I wouldn‘t say that this is true for every unit type though but I feel like 2k assets do their job good enough without vet. So this is why I disagree with mimile here while I also think he is 100% correct, because for some decisions the skill of the player is a factor as well.
@@CommanderOwlFtunk Yeah it heavily depends on the map, income, skill level and if you are playing in a tournament or not. For what I am used to (50min time limit, maverick) 3 grille is enough. That is probably not the case for a player who is playing quickplay/ranked
@@CommanderOwlFtunk I've been playing a lot of 9th Panzer lately in the queue, which only gets one card of Grille's --- 4 counts unvetted in A, 2 counts with one vet, but if you bring them in B you can get 6 with one vet. I play Balanced in the quick play. Is 2k HE that important in A to skip on the vet and still have spare Grille's for the rest of the game?
@@LeprechauninmyBoxorz I would say yes. Of course the real answer is it depends. On some maps and in some matchups it won't be an issue, in other cases it might. But when you play in the queue you newer know which one it's going to be.
In my opinion, as long as something performs well enough without vet, taking it earlier is more important than adding vet if that role can not be filled otherwise. You have to remember that A phase, especially the first few minutes, can have a big influence on the rest of the game.
And sometimes it is also not about there being issues with you not having it but rather you missing out on an advantage that you could have.