Nice tutorial! A couple of additions that might be helpful: --When gluing down the shim, I insert a pencil or rod and clamp it down overnight. This helps ensure that the entire surface of the shim adheres to the koiguchi. I use a small clamp that I lined with adhesive-backed cork so that the metal won't scratch the saya, but you can simply put a folded paper towel under the outer side of the clamp --When the glue is dry, I file a slight ramp or bevel into shim at the koiguchi. This helps the habaki to slide in without hitting a blunt shim end that can cause splintering or cracking (even more likely if you've stacked two shims). --Sometimes one shim is too loose and two are too tight. It's okay to go with two shims and then shave it down with a needle file. --When filing or sanding, be sure to angle the saya so that the koiguchi is the lowest point. Otherwise sawdust falls into the saya, which can adhere to or even scratch a blade. If you have a compressor, it's a good idea to blow air into the saya after the shim is finished.
Thanks for the video Josh , so am I right in thinking you don’t really want the saya touching the sides of the Habaki and to only shim the mune and edge side?
You're welcome and you're correct. as mentioned in the video, too much pressure on the sides of the saya koiguchi can lead to the saya cracking/splitting at the seams of the ha and mune. as you can also see in my example, there are scratches on the sides of the habaki, which were caused by the epoxy residue left inside walls of the saya.
Well done sir!
Thanks Matthew ❤
Great video Josh! Thank you for taking the effort and allways helping everyone in our FB groups!
You're very welcome and thanks for the kind words and support!
Outstanding. Thanks!
You're welcome :)
Nice tutorial! A couple of additions that might be helpful:
--When gluing down the shim, I insert a pencil or rod and clamp it down overnight. This helps ensure that the entire surface of the shim adheres to the koiguchi. I use a small clamp that I lined with adhesive-backed cork so that the metal won't scratch the saya, but you can simply put a folded paper towel under the outer side of the clamp
--When the glue is dry, I file a slight ramp or bevel into shim at the koiguchi. This helps the habaki to slide in without hitting a blunt shim end that can cause splintering or cracking (even more likely if you've stacked two shims).
--Sometimes one shim is too loose and two are too tight. It's okay to go with two shims and then shave it down with a needle file.
--When filing or sanding, be sure to angle the saya so that the koiguchi is the lowest point. Otherwise sawdust falls into the saya, which can adhere to or even scratch a blade. If you have a compressor, it's a good idea to blow air into the saya after the shim is finished.
Thanks :)
@@cottontailcustoms Love your work! :D
Hi!! Thank you so much for the tutorial!! I wanted to know, what type of wood veneer do you use??
you're welcome :) look for kyogi wood
Thank you, this is extremely helpful
My pleasure :)
Thanks for the video Josh , so am I right in thinking you don’t really want the saya touching the sides of the Habaki and to only shim the mune and edge side?
You're welcome and you're correct. as mentioned in the video, too much pressure on the sides of the saya koiguchi can lead to the saya cracking/splitting at the seams of the ha and mune. as you can also see in my example, there are scratches on the sides of the habaki, which were caused by the epoxy residue left inside walls of the saya.
Great method, Josh. Is that a Cloudhammer katana?
It is, good eye!
Thanks Josh
Very welcome!
Really enjoyed this. Are you going to be doing other work on the Cloudhammer that you could show or talk about?
It’s on the list for some point in the near future
@@cottontailcustoms That's wicked cool. Lucky customer, sir