Thanks for sharing the video. When I use those extractor bits, I drill a 1/4 hole all the way through a piece of scrap wood, then clamp that over top of the broken screw. It guides the extractor bit firmly.
Don't put the glue directly into the hole. You've created a hydraulic barrier preventing you from pushing the dowel all the way in. You could have drilled the dowel before installing it, to relieve the pressure, or put a longitudinal groove into the dowel to let glue and air to escape. Be careful using a gimlet on narrow pieces of wood. They have a tendency to thread themselves into the wood and the taper can cause a split.
Did you have a link for the drill-out bit for the removal? I need this for a door hinge. We ended up having to remove a section of the wood and regluing the whole thing because a screw had broken off in the edge of the door frame! This would have been far easier!
Nice video. I would strongly recommend that you invest in a bench top drill press. I didn't know how much I needed one until I got it. Aside from drilling holes I use it to make custom diameter hardwood dowels for my projects. I am also a fan of bamboo skewers for lots of things including spreading glue in holes. Lastly I would recommend that you purchase some good quality steel wood screws in the same size as your brass screws. Drill your hole, screw in the steel screws and then unscrew it and put in the brass screws for the final installation. Keep up the good work.
Exactly, wood is softer than brass, therefore the bit will wander off especially when using a hand-held drill. After setting up on a drill press one can do without the drill bit and use only the core bit for a less risky and more predictable result. And, nice box!
Hi Jerry, I've had the same trouble with brass screws so I bought brass finish - looking screws from the store - had no trouble since and they look just as good as brass. I believe some company called Laition, or something similar make them. Cheers, Emmett.
I've done that as well, but for a high end case, I want the brass colored screws to match the hinges. Might be a little too OCD but I have to live with me! Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video, liked the excitement of using the gimlet (I'm going to have to get me a set). Have subscribed as I like your style and certainly like your type of woodworking.
Hi Jerry, you made a good pun there, " I have never done this before, so if there is a major SCREW UP on it", I liked that Jerry. Well done, I like the wood you used in the case. Also your like me, I am not saying I am anywhere near as good as you wood working wise, but there is no way I would cover up that fault, I'd want to fix it properly too. It's a prise gun case, and all the time they would be using it, I would feel so bad. Good on you Jerry.
That screw "extractor" is very thin and easy to break. Go to the hardware store and get several sizes of common roll pins. Sharpen the roll pins with a grinder and have at it. The roll pin is tougher. I have taken the roll pin and driven it around the screw and popped out the broken screw.
Thanks for sharing the video. When I use those extractor bits, I drill a 1/4 hole all the way through a piece of scrap wood, then clamp that over top of the broken screw. It guides the extractor bit firmly.
Good idea! I'm always open to learning new things. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the information! You definitely deserve more subscribers. Great video editing too!
Thanks for watch and for the comments! Ron get all credit for the video editing! It's even more difficult for him since I have a "face for radio"!!
This channel should have more subscribers. Great information.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Don't put the glue directly into the hole. You've created a hydraulic barrier preventing you from pushing the dowel all the way in. You could have drilled the dowel before installing it, to relieve the pressure, or put a longitudinal groove into the dowel to let glue and air to escape.
Be careful using a gimlet on narrow pieces of wood. They have a tendency to thread themselves into the wood and the taper can cause a split.
good advice. I guess he didn't think of that.
I knew there was enough room around the dowel to allow the glue to flow up. But good thinking! Thanks for watching!
Did you have a link for the drill-out bit for the removal? I need this for a door hinge. We ended up having to remove a section of the wood and regluing the whole thing because a screw had broken off in the edge of the door frame! This would have been far easier!
You bet. Here you go... www.woodcraft.com/search?q=Screw+Extractor&options%5Bprefix%5D=last&view=products - Three different sizes.
Nice video. I would strongly recommend that you invest in a bench top drill press. I didn't know how much I needed one until I got it. Aside from drilling holes I use it to make custom diameter hardwood dowels for my projects. I am also a fan of bamboo skewers for lots of things including spreading glue in holes. Lastly I would recommend that you purchase some good quality steel wood screws in the same size as your brass screws. Drill your hole, screw in the steel screws and then unscrew it and put in the brass screws for the final installation. Keep up the good work.
Exactly, wood is softer than brass, therefore the bit will wander off especially when using a hand-held drill. After setting up on a drill press one can do without the drill bit and use only the core bit for a less risky and more predictable result. And, nice box!
Good tips. Thanks for watching!
Hi Jerry, I've had the same trouble with brass screws so I bought brass finish - looking screws from the store - had no trouble since and they look just as good as brass. I believe some company called Laition, or something similar make them. Cheers, Emmett.
I've done that as well, but for a high end case, I want the brass colored screws to match the hinges. Might be a little too OCD but I have to live with me! Thanks for watching!
When drilling the hole in the dowel, set the hinge and use a vix bit. It will center in the hinge and drill perpendicular to the hinge.
Yes Sir . . . I just couldn't find mine on the day we filmed. Thanks for watching!
Enjoyed the video, liked the excitement of using the gimlet (I'm going to have to get me a set). Have subscribed as I like your style and certainly like your type of woodworking.
Awesome, thank you!
Hi Jerry, you made a good pun there, " I have never done this before, so if there is a major SCREW UP on it", I liked that Jerry. Well done, I like the wood you used in the case. Also your like me, I am not saying I am anywhere near as good as you wood working wise, but there is no way I would cover up that fault, I'd want to fix it properly too. It's a prise gun case, and all the time they would be using it, I would feel so bad. Good on you Jerry.
Thank you, Sir! "Good" can be interpreted several ways . . . I just try to do my customer right. Thanks for watching!
use a drill press and clamp piece solid
Yes, Sir, but as big as that case was, I wouldn't be confident that I could secure it on my small drill press table. Thanks for watching!
That screw "extractor" is very thin and easy to break. Go to the hardware store and get several sizes of common roll pins. Sharpen the roll pins with a grinder and have at it. The roll pin is tougher. I have taken the roll pin and driven it around the screw and popped out the broken screw.
Great idea! I'll give it a try. Thanks for watching!
Viola?
Yeah . . . bad joke. :) Thanks for watching!
This should have been done using a drill press.
As big as that case was, I wouldn't be confident that I could secure it on my small drill press table. Thanks for watching!