Yeah, I have a MFJ 969 Versa Tuner II also. I used to use it for my old Kenwood TS-430s but now I have a Yaesu 991a with an internal tuner. So far the Yaesu internal tuner will tune any of my antennae since my antennae are nearly resonate. I even got my coax cables mixed up and plugged my Ringo Ranger II into the HF antenna and it tuned it for 10 meters without any problems. Only thing is, I couldn't tune the Antron 99 to 2 meters 'cause the tuner only works on HF 30Hz to 6 meters--same as the MFJ 969. Finally got my cables straightened out and got 'em marked in case we have another electrical storm. 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Ive had the same one for about 15 yrs and it always works great. If the roller inductor starts feeling a little crunchy, a small shot of deoxit and let it dry, does the trick.
Nice vid. You sold me on manual tuners. I'm a brand spankin' new General. Passed my Tech and General a week ago. I won a used Alinco DX-77 radio and W5RV antenna so I'm looking for a tuner to complete the HF rig. This 969 looks nice!
Great video. One thing though... this is REALLY IMPORTANT and part of the FCC RULES. when you’re testing any equipment and transmitting, you need to sat your calls and say “Call sign testing” just a note for all the people that watch this video. Cheers and 73 from K7HN.
You would’t need to tune that, but it’s convenient for setting your mic gain, ALC, testing power output, etc. It saves you one more “box” from your shack and you don’t need to swap coax cables around to do it.
I bought the same tuner, used in mint condition, at eBay Germany. But I think someone "de-synconizised" the counter (maybe after a repair or so). Speciallly the inside position of the brass-connector of the coil is not syncron to the counter. For my correct unterstanding and a new selfmade syncronisation: The absolutely right stop-position of the inductor wheel is for about 50,2MHz and similar with the absolutely backward stop-position of the brass-connector inside the coil. At this position the counter (over the inductor wheel at the front) has to show about "123" (concerning the MFJ-manual, page5). If I rotate the inductor wheel to the absoluteley left stop-position, the brass connector inside the coil has to be at the absoluteley front-position and the counter shows about "033" for about 1,8MHz. Is that ok? I hope you understand what i mean. Kind regards from Germany Mr. Rainer Reinhardt
Rainer Reinhardt check the user manual to reset the dial. Turn the inductor knob all the way counter clockwise and push the rest button in the hole to the right of the counter
Love mine. I have one of the older models before they upgraded the look a little. I had to clean the roller inductor a little and fix a few cold solder joints when I first got it though. Their quality control is horrible.
You say power is not necessary except for the lighted panel meter. Actually, power, whether from battery or wall wart apply power to the meter and to the metering circuit (transistor) and the forward power meter.
No that's not the case.. The battery is ONLY for PEP readings it has nothing to do with the metering of this unit. It is an antenna tuner, not an analyzer
@@HamRadioConcepts If it's only for PEP, then WHY didn't you STATE that? You are leading people astray with this. Regardless of whether or not you are in the field, you STILL need to monitor PEP, and even MORE so in portable/field operations, and close-quarters/field day setups. Please correct this video.
BATTERY=>only for Pep readings EXT Power=> Pep readings AND to backlit the meter Still even with no battery or external power the meter works but just in avg mode and to work the red switch must still be ON.
with the top open it looks like both coax and ladder-line use the same balun? or maybe the coax balun is switched out of the ckt when using ladder-line? would anyone know?
Yeah, I have a MFJ 969 Versa Tuner II also. I used to use it for my old Kenwood TS-430s but now I have a Yaesu 991a with an internal tuner. So far the Yaesu internal tuner will tune any of my antennae since my antennae are nearly resonate. I even got my coax cables mixed up and plugged my Ringo Ranger II into the HF antenna and it tuned it for 10 meters without any problems. Only thing is, I couldn't tune the Antron 99 to 2 meters 'cause the tuner only works on HF 30Hz to 6 meters--same as the MFJ 969. Finally got my cables straightened out and got 'em marked in case we have another electrical storm. 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Ive had the same one for about 15 yrs and it always works great. If the roller inductor starts feeling a little crunchy, a small shot of deoxit and let it dry, does the trick.
Nice vid. You sold me on manual tuners. I'm a brand spankin' new General. Passed my Tech and General a week ago. I won a used Alinco DX-77 radio and W5RV antenna so I'm looking for a tuner to complete the HF rig. This 969 looks nice!
Great video. One thing though... this is REALLY IMPORTANT and part of the FCC RULES. when you’re testing any equipment and transmitting, you need to sat your calls and say “Call sign testing” just a note for all the people that watch this video. Cheers and 73 from K7HN.
Yours are some of the best amateur radio videos on TH-cam. very informative. GM4SVM
Love it! Mine arrives tomorrow. Cheers. Andy
Glad I signed up! Love it every time I watch. Thanks!
This is my newest favorite YT page, no lie! Thank you!!!
N0BPS
Bought one 3 months ago for 100 bucks! Love it!
So can you run a 1.5kw pep amp into one of these?
300w
what would be the point in tuning the tuner into the dummy load? it's a perfect 50 ohm resistor load so tuning has no effect.
You would’t need to tune that, but it’s convenient for setting your mic gain, ALC, testing power output, etc. It saves you one more “box” from your shack and you don’t need to swap coax cables around to do it.
Great very clear explanation. Thanks
I bought the same tuner, used in mint condition, at eBay Germany. But I think someone "de-synconizised" the counter (maybe after a repair or so). Speciallly the inside position of the brass-connector of the coil is not syncron to the counter. For my correct unterstanding and a new selfmade syncronisation: The absolutely right stop-position of the inductor wheel is for about 50,2MHz and similar with the absolutely backward stop-position of the brass-connector inside the coil. At this position the counter (over the inductor wheel at the front) has to show about "123" (concerning the MFJ-manual, page5). If I rotate the inductor wheel to the absoluteley left stop-position, the brass connector inside the coil has to be at the absoluteley front-position and the counter shows about "033" for about 1,8MHz. Is that ok? I hope you understand what i mean. Kind regards from Germany Mr. Rainer Reinhardt
Rainer Reinhardt check the user manual to reset the dial. Turn the inductor knob all the way counter clockwise and push the rest button in the hole to the right of the counter
@@CQN1HN thx for your information. The counter section had a mechanical fault. I have a new one and now everything works fine.
But! Do you set your roller inductor FIRST? then you adjust the antenna and transmitter. Elaborate please.
Love mine. I have one of the older models before they upgraded the look a little. I had to clean the roller inductor a little and fix a few cold solder joints when I first got it though. Their quality control is horrible.
Thanks I have one of these, helpful video
Very instructive and claryfying video. Thanks for posting. 73
To the point, thanks for posting.
If you take out on field day how would you ground it (or where would be the best place to ground)
With a screw driver on the ground, you can use a battery jumper cables to attach from the grounded screw driver to the equipment
You say power is not necessary except for the lighted panel meter. Actually, power, whether from battery or wall wart apply power to the meter and to the metering circuit (transistor) and the forward power meter.
No that's not the case.. The battery is ONLY for PEP readings
it has nothing to do with the metering of this unit. It is an antenna tuner, not an analyzer
@@HamRadioConcepts If it's only for PEP, then WHY didn't you STATE that? You are leading people astray with this. Regardless of whether or not you are in the field, you STILL need to monitor PEP, and even MORE so in portable/field operations, and close-quarters/field day setups. Please correct this video.
BATTERY=>only for Pep readings
EXT Power=> Pep readings AND to backlit the meter
Still even with no battery or external power the meter works but just in avg mode and to work the red switch must still be ON.
Really helpful. Thank you, guys.
Just scored one of these for a good price. 👍👍👍
with the top open it looks like both coax and ladder-line use the same balun? or maybe the coax balun is switched out of the ckt when using ladder-line? would anyone know?
Love this 969
I really like this tuner because it covers 6 meters- most stop at 30 MHz.. I thought the 949e covered the 6 meter band, but I guess it doesn't..
I using this tuner on my Yaesu FT 991a so the radio goes from 5 W too 100w , what power setting do I use to tune up at ? 30w ?
The 30 power reading on the meter and the 30 setting. 73 from W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Brilliant what i was looking for, M1KEY MIKE
Love mine. I have the same model in gray face.
Great video thanks
didn't really follow the instruction manual's procedure for tuning but close enough i suppose.
wished you would have run 100 watts.
When tuning you want to use low power.
LOL - Tune with dummy load :) :D
I noticed the same thing. The dummy load is not for tuning a match, correct? Seems like only for measuring transmitter output wattage.
I only wished that MFJ made some high quality products. But they didn't.