Worcester Wireless Thermostat Repair
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2025
- It turns out that 'Likes' and 'Shares' actually help the channel so, if you want to, please click the thumbs up or share the video.
I don't have a Patreon or a donate thingy, I get by fine. That said, if you are mega rich and fancy donating something I would find useful then feel free to check out my Amazon wishlist (No pressure) - www.amazon.co.u...
If you want to get in contact Twitter is probably the best way @mrdavidjwatts
www.davidjwatts...
Appreciate this video is a couple of years old, but our unit broke in exactly the same place and this video has meant I’ve fixed it for less than a fiver with a double battery pack rather than the £150+ now for a whole new unit so massive thanks for this 👍🏼
I just wanted to see how the batteries came out Thankyou, I was struggling and it is so easy when you see how
Thank you! I only needed to see how to remove the batteries and found that out in the first minute. Much appreciated
me too - thanks!!!
To my discredit, I came here simply because I couldn't figure out how to change the batteries. It worked though so thanks!!
Exavtly the same! Spent ages trying too!!!
An bozo me too!
And me!
The springs in battery boxes such as the one you actually used can easily be repurposed to replace the custom strip type in the original - albeit with a large blob of solder for an anchor point..
this is the drayton digistat rebranded to worcester and to pair this device with its mains receiver requires a specific insertion order while having the mains receiver in a "listening mode" of the battery boxes cant remember but i think its left box then right box so the tapping is obviously something to do with that feature
Dear you are awesome, you solved my problem and saved my time and money...cheers
12:29 Shots fired 😂😂
Nice work, David :P Another thing to note, the negative terminal is easy to spot because of the ground plane that terminal is soldered to :)
I checked it just like this. It worked! Saved money thanks
mine kicked the bucket today. contact issue but thankfully it hadn't snapped off. i'd never done any repair like this before but thought i'd scrub the rust off the contact with a cotton bud and apple cider vinegar and it worked sexily! yeah baby
This saved me today, thanks for the idea 👍🏻
I thought the microcontroller could be powered from two cells and the RF transmitter could be powered from four cells. This would eliminate the need for a regulator.
Now that I'm writing this, I had to recheck one thing from the video... The broken tab is in the side where lower two cells are. Maybe those lower cells had leaked (more) due to the slightly higher load, which makes them run flat earlier.
Anyway, interesting video. Shows how easy some devices might be to fix. Whatever the problem is, if you do own a soldering iron, it's worth checking.
Hugatry's HackVlog your explanation is spot on.
They avoided using a regulator, which would slowly trickle current and become quite significant in a low power device.
I have the original Digistat 1, non-RF. It only has the left hand battery box, so 3V only.
Nice fix David. FYI a place to scavenge new tabs that works in a pinch- binder clips. Springy as heck and easily formed with some tin snips or dremel :) Cheers
Mine is damaged the same way exactly , I was wondering if I buy a new remote will it work with my boiler ?
Thank you. Only needed to know how/where the batteries were :)
I love little fixes like that :-)
Nice! Good to see more people think about fixing before disposing. Didn't you have an old battery holder laying around, to take its spring connector off?
are those buttons on the side of the LCD functional? There seems to be reference to them on the PCB as 2 contact pads.
They were electrically connected but I didn't want to mess with it as it go back to the owners.
They may be for pairing the transmitter, used once, and never again - so peeps with the same device can't go round setting everyone's heating to a million 'C during summer or turning it off in winter, because you know that would be a thing.
Edit, you'd probably swap the button pad things to the ones next to the LCD, initialise, then put them back. This would eliminate tampering. Purely guessing though.
They're for the programmable version of this.
www.diynot.com/diy/proxy/aHR0cDovL2kxNTEucGhvdG9idWNrZXQuY29tL2FsYnVtcy9zMTU3L2RlZXBzaW5naF9waG90b3MvMjAxMi0xMS0wNDE2MjE0OC5qcGc%3D/image.png
Don't use Poundland Zinc Chloride batteries there guaranteed to leak. The Alkali version are much better value even though you get fewer for your pound, but more importantly there're a lot less prone to leaking.
The amount of times I've seen kids toys - even from decent manufactures - with Zinc Chloride batteries installed from factory actually worries me. I've even written to "Chat" magazines / forums to warn mothers about this. Thankfully the advice was taken well each time.
The first thing I do when I purchase an item that uses batteries is to check what type of batteries are installed (if any). If it has zinc chloride batteries installed, I immediately remove them and replace with alkaline. In my experience, alkaline batteries *can* leak, but it is much less likely, whereas zinc chloride batteries *will* leak, for sure.
Would the metal strip in the battery that you soldered the new wire to be strong enough to fashion a new tag from?
+BaronVonBiffo yeah it probably would be, I just didn't want to destroy something to save something.
Snip a little strip off a soup can.
Super, this has helped me to find what I was wanting to check too, so thank you v much :-)
lots of battery terminals to be had on eBay bit pricey though you could probably find something at your local model shop regards brass sheet or strips, or you could make something from a terminal cut off a dead lantern battery 4.5V 1289
mine died whilst on holiday, just replaced batteries with no joy, hence finding this video.
it wasnt the same problem, and when checking batteries again it started working.
when looking at the instructions booklet afterwards to reprogramme it, it does say you should replace the right hand compartment before the left? I've no idea why? but perhaps I didn't do that first time. it's working now so not going to try it out!
Thanks for the help very very helpful video my house is now worm
Very useful vid, thanks.
Do you know where to find instructions? I can't understand how it works
isnt the metal bar the bimetalic strip which turns the thermostat on off? or is that to old school for this thermostat
edit i see the thermistor
Nah, that bar was soldered on both sides of the boars so it is either just for support or just a convenient bar antenna.
433mhz would be easy to hack to make a custom esp32 thermostat.
I've repaired kids toys etc with a thick paper clip soldered on to replace broken battery connectors.. probably not enough spring in it for this tho.
One could rob an old/broken battery holder and use the bit with the spiral spring. If to long/strong, trim down to suit... I'd have a couple of candidates in the form of battery powered LED strings and an 'holographic' (etched lines in an edge lit bit of plexi, just couldn't resist the Klein bottle style...) light which have been converted from AA batteries to either 18650 LiIon or USB, all having the original battery contacts in place, unused.
The flame image has disappeared. How do I get it back? Thank you in advance.
Simply you can make terminal from tin of beans
Which model is this thermostat!
Doesn't have a model number on it but it is the same as the British Gas RC1 or the drayton digistat 1
David Watts ah right ok, I’m having trouble programming the timer for central heating and can’t find any guides on it .
Ditto Herkkkules ! treble 'k' ?
I have never seen a thermostat more complicated and useless than this one. And why it is not stuck on a bloody wall like all the thermostat in the world?
Ditto