Without doubt, you do a great job on this derailleur but for it to be of real use to the home mechanic we need to see, in REAL TIME, the reassembly in particular. It goes so fast that it's almost impossible to follow without constantly freezing the frame. Please consider editing this (to cut out the drops and fluffs, and not show every twist of the driver ;-) and putting up a real time version. Also, it appears to have been reversed (tightening screws anti-clockwise and undoing them clockwise ) which may confuse some.Thanks.
I'll definately put up a slower tutorial soon. I'm just getting to grips with how to make videos and edit them with very limited equipment (doing it all from a phone which isn't ideal) Thanks for the feedback.
Hi, thanks for the video However, the picture is mirror imaged. I ended up watching it at 0.25 speed in a mirror. Also, I think the most challenging reassembly step is missing (bracket axle assembly). It took me several days to figure out a method using an extra hanger bracket to keep the inner assembly from sliding off the bracket axle, yet loose enough to allow enough clearance for the guide pins to move past each other while I loaded the spring. I might have figured this out sooner, but mine is frame mounted (70's Superia Apollo Super Star, Ishiwata 022 CrMo). After successful assembly, I just removed the bracket and installed the completed derailleur back on the frame lug.
I have a few more awaiting reassembly, and better video editing software now so hopefully the next video is more useful for this. (This one was edited on a phone) The extra hanger as a stop is a really good idea, I might start doing it my self!
Hi, great video! Would you use this group to mount a gravel bike? I found a Columbus sl tubeset with this group mounted for a reasonable price. Thanks!!
I was hoping learn how how to reassemble the prestressed part at the end - where it screw to the frame is. I took it apart once and remember that I struggled to put it together again. - the plate that's supposed to go against the notch of the frame is bent the whole derailleur won't stay in position..
I think from your comment you are referring to the bracket axle bushing, its a chromed steel part which the B screw goes though, it sits against the bike frame and the "bracket axle" (the top bolt, the one you use to attach the derailleur to the bike frame) goes though it. The bottom of that plate is bent at 90 degrees where the B screw goes though it. If this is damaged the derailleur can't engage the frame and will not pivot correctly around the bolt. If you need help with the problem please email me at vintageshimano@gmail.com with a picture of the part and I'll help you either repair or replace it. Usually the plate can be carefully bent back into shape with a vice.
@@VintageShimano Yes exactly. Thanks for offering help :). I already found someone who showed how to put the piece back together. (by clamping a hex bit with a vice so the screw can sit on it and hold the whole piece...). Maybe I should have known the "carefully" part before though. I over bent it a little, but it seems to work fine now.
Put the spring in, then the bracket axle bushing which is the chromed part that goes on top of the spring. Put the pivot bolt though this assembly. Then I squeeze the assembly together with my fingers while rotating the b-screw plate with a pair of pliers until the little nub on it goes behind the stop on the body of the derailleur.
RJ has a video where he does it, he holds the bolt in a vice with a hex wrench. th-cam.com/video/L5KWFhzIPoc/w-d-xo.html from 14.50 or so, this system hasn't changed in 30 years and is pretty much universal among shimano rear mechs (except the AX series')
thx a lot. Yeah I watched the video from RJ but I feel like the bracket axle bushing is pressed to the grey plastic part, which I find impossible to re-assemble till now. Am I wrong?
@@aurelienblond4786 the grey plastic part I think you're referring to goes over the back of the assembly once it's assembled, it's mostly just there to keep things clean it's not essential
@@VintageShimano thx for your help. I meant the plastic part that retains the pivot bolt, I think it is essential. Does Jorge Vargas Azocar (below comment) have the same issue?
I use evaporust. Watch ‘Rj the bike guy ‘rust remover test for bike frames - effects on rust and paint’ video’ on youtube. It is a controlled test and evaporust beats the rest by far. I think that on bare metal, it still wins out with efficiency. Research it. It’s not a rust converter, but a rust (iron oxide) remover... I love the stuff for my vintage bike restorations. Cool vid by the way😊
@@bigbadstretch13yrago I like evaporust, but it's too expensive for me to use it all the time because I process lots of parts! I think I might start using it on the most rusty stuff though
Vintage Shimano it seems very expensive until you find out its reusable. RJ contacted the makers and the day that using a gallon of evaporust can dissolve a half a pound of iron oxide. Mines black and still works a treat
I need your help please. there is a part of the parts assembly that is missing. I disassembled this piece and cannot put it in. please. Do you have any email where I can contact you? thank you.
I do also re-polish and shape parts but not in this instance. "Restoration" performs better in search, unfortunately not every part can be given the full allotment of time economically.
@@VintageShimano I am wanting to do a restoration of an 1990's Shimano 105 groupset but need to know how to re-do the lettering after scratch removal and re-paint.
@@devin4560 H Lloyd cycles might be able to make reproduction decals for you, the paint on 1055sc parts is electrostatic so it's very hard wearing. Powder coat might be similar?
Thanks, this helped a lot with my Shimano 600 repair. Greetings from Zeeland
Thank you, this helped me a lot!!
Without doubt, you do a great job on this derailleur but for it to be of real use to the home mechanic we need to see, in REAL TIME, the reassembly in particular. It goes so fast that it's almost impossible to follow without constantly freezing the frame. Please consider editing this (to cut out the drops and fluffs, and not show every twist of the driver ;-) and putting up a real time version. Also, it appears to have been reversed (tightening screws anti-clockwise and undoing them clockwise ) which may confuse some.Thanks.
i hope there would be a better tutorial soon
Try to make playback speed to 0.50 😁
Robbie Stevens it’s because he’s not making a tutorial, it’s an advert for his restorations. He doesn’t need to edit anything
I'll definately put up a slower tutorial soon. I'm just getting to grips with how to make videos and edit them with very limited equipment (doing it all from a phone which isn't ideal)
Thanks for the feedback.
I do intend to do tutorials too, in time, so stay tuned if that would be of interest
Thanks! Your video helped me a lot while assembling mine!
Wowww! Que gran trabajo! Un gran saludo from Argentina!!
Hello! What is the liquid bath you throw this into? 🙏 thanks
Hi, thanks for the video
However, the picture is mirror imaged. I ended up watching it at 0.25 speed in a mirror. Also, I think the most challenging reassembly step is missing (bracket axle assembly).
It took me several days to figure out a method using an extra hanger bracket to keep the inner assembly from sliding off the bracket axle, yet loose enough to allow enough clearance for the guide pins to move past each other while I loaded the spring. I might have figured this out sooner, but mine is frame mounted (70's Superia Apollo Super Star, Ishiwata 022 CrMo). After successful assembly, I just removed the bracket and installed the completed derailleur back on the frame lug.
I have a few more awaiting reassembly, and better video editing software now so hopefully the next video is more useful for this. (This one was edited on a phone)
The extra hanger as a stop is a really good idea, I might start doing it my self!
Where can i get parts , need like a small bolt for the jockey wheel
Nice video ! I Neede it when i am going to fix my Shimano derailleur ✌️
Hi, great video! Would you use this group to mount a gravel bike? I found a Columbus sl tubeset with this group mounted for a reasonable price. Thanks!!
I was hoping learn how how to reassemble the prestressed part at the end - where it screw to the frame is. I took it apart once and remember that I struggled to put it together again. - the plate that's supposed to go against the notch of the frame is bent the whole derailleur won't stay in position..
I think from your comment you are referring to the bracket axle bushing, its a chromed steel part which the B screw goes though, it sits against the bike frame and the "bracket axle" (the top bolt, the one you use to attach the derailleur to the bike frame) goes though it.
The bottom of that plate is bent at 90 degrees where the B screw goes though it. If this is damaged the derailleur can't engage the frame and will not pivot correctly around the bolt.
If you need help with the problem please email me at vintageshimano@gmail.com with a picture of the part and I'll help you either repair or replace it. Usually the plate can be carefully bent back into shape with a vice.
@@VintageShimano Yes exactly. Thanks for offering help :). I already found someone who showed how to put the piece back together. (by clamping a hex bit with a vice so the screw can sit on it and hold the whole piece...). Maybe I should have known the "carefully" part before though. I over bent it a little, but it seems to work fine now.
Just nostalgia, i do have tourney shimano 600 gset
Hi, how did you put back together the spring you removed at 1:57min (attachment to the frame)? thx for the great video
Put the spring in, then the bracket axle bushing which is the chromed part that goes on top of the spring. Put the pivot bolt though this assembly. Then I squeeze the assembly together with my fingers while rotating the b-screw plate with a pair of pliers until the little nub on it goes behind the stop on the body of the derailleur.
RJ has a video where he does it, he holds the bolt in a vice with a hex wrench. th-cam.com/video/L5KWFhzIPoc/w-d-xo.html from 14.50 or so, this system hasn't changed in 30 years and is pretty much universal among shimano rear mechs (except the AX series')
thx a lot. Yeah I watched the video from RJ but I feel like the bracket axle bushing is pressed to the grey plastic part, which I find impossible to re-assemble till now. Am I wrong?
@@aurelienblond4786 the grey plastic part I think you're referring to goes over the back of the assembly once it's assembled, it's mostly just there to keep things clean it's not essential
@@VintageShimano thx for your help. I meant the plastic part that retains the pivot bolt, I think it is essential. Does Jorge Vargas Azocar (below comment) have the same issue?
what liquid is used to remove rust??
Replied to you on Facebook, but for everyone else I use citric acid solution and brushes.
I use evaporust. Watch ‘Rj the bike guy ‘rust remover test for bike frames - effects on rust and paint’ video’ on youtube. It is a controlled test and evaporust beats the rest by far. I think that on bare metal, it still wins out with efficiency. Research it. It’s not a rust converter, but a rust (iron oxide) remover... I love the stuff for my vintage bike restorations. Cool vid by the way😊
@@bigbadstretch13yrago I like evaporust, but it's too expensive for me to use it all the time because I process lots of parts! I think I might start using it on the most rusty stuff though
Vintage Shimano it seems very expensive until you find out its reusable. RJ contacted the makers and the day that using a gallon of evaporust can dissolve a half a pound of iron oxide. Mines black and still works a treat
*** makers and they say
I need your help please. there is a part of the parts assembly that is missing. I disassembled this piece and cannot put it in. please. Do you have any email where I can contact you? thank you.
vintageshimano at gmail dot com. Send me a picture of the parts you are struggling with
Dang skipped over the hardest part
#doinminutes
I wouldn't call that a restoration, it's a cleaning. You did nothing to restore it to it's original shape. Still covered in scratches.
I do also re-polish and shape parts but not in this instance. "Restoration" performs better in search, unfortunately not every part can be given the full allotment of time economically.
@@VintageShimano I am wanting to do a restoration of an 1990's Shimano 105 groupset but need to know how to re-do the lettering after scratch removal and re-paint.
@@devin4560 H Lloyd cycles might be able to make reproduction decals for you, the paint on 1055sc parts is electrostatic so it's very hard wearing. Powder coat might be similar?