I'm quite new to film photography and just bought a Nikon FE. This was the best video I could have watched - not only to get set up but also to improve my understanding of how the camera works. You explain things so clearly and in such detail. Thanks so much for this video - it's much appreciated! 😊
Just got a mint condition FE. This video was really helpful to understand all of it's functions. Didn't know about the replaceable focusing screen. What a piece of technology!
Thanks, David. I’m grateful that you share your knowledge in such a clear and thorough way, so the rest of us can enjoy this hobby. I’ve been learning to shoot the FE mostly through this video series.
I have been a Nikon fan for my whole life (since getting a D3000 back in 2009 when I was 16). I got into film photography a couple years ago now with an ollld Leica that was passed down to me, and just the other day picked up a Nikon FE after getting tired of the troublesome quirks of the old 1937 Leica. It's so much fun learning a more modern SLR 35mm camera, and I am a bit in awe of what Nikon was able to accomplish back in the mid 70s with this camera. Thanks so much for the two excellent guides David!
You can thank Leica and Elektra for making cameras so good. Nikon copied and improved on the Leica and Elektra perfected the pentaprism, making it the first successful SLR camera. Nikon just made the best SLRs. Nikon actually bested Lecia. Both the F and F2 were superior and very successful cameras. They went to war, they were the camera of choice for the news media and with professions of all sorts.
Thank you so much for uploading and sharing in detailed understanding about FE! Bought mine few days ago and as a beginner in film photography, this video truly helped me!
Thank you so much for this video David! You have no idea how helpful this was. I always favoured using my FM vs my FE because I didn't understand the metering feature but you've explained it beautifully. I can't wait to go out and shoot my FE this weekend.
So detailed, David. Thank you for your help. I’m getting this camera back today, I had it serviced because it sat unused for decades. I was a little intimidated because I’ve never shot an slr….you’ve definitely answered many of my questions. Thanks, again. 👍📸
You can actually set your exposure to any value you like with your aperture. A Nikon camera lets you choose only fixed times, but you can use any aperture between the fixed aperture-stops. This means you can set your aperture e.g. to 8.2 and the camera will make a proper exposure. That's really helpful if you are working with slidefilm and try to nail exposure as good as possible.
Great Video. I've been shooting my FE for a few years now, and did not realize the exposure trip about automatic stop down metering. I usually use manual; but the auto information was very helpful.
Thanks for the clear and informative video. I got one of these second hand over twenty years ago when digital cameras were still in their infancy, and the Nikon F3 was king of the castle at about €1000. In 2004 I got a D70 which was the best "user level" Nikon digital camera at the time, and I still use it on a daily basis today. It's curious to see how the "MASP" manual functions on modern digital cameras derived from the "Auto" mode on the FE, there's a logical progression there passing through how the Minolta Dynax 404si operates, albeit with film rather than a photocell. I still think that the FE is more fun and more rewarding to use than the D70, and thinking about balancing shutter speed and aperture is a great discipline, and helps me get a lot more out of my digital equipment. Ideally I'd like my kids to learn how to use the FE, but unfortunately they're wedded to pointing and shooting with their mobile phones.
Thanks for the video David! Was wondering why so many of my narrower aperture shots came out completely unexposed. So shooting at narrower apertures, you should use the meter reading with the DOF lever pressed down?
Thank you! For the DoF Preview lever, it should only be used on Per-AI and NAI (same thing, different names) lenses that require the meter coupling pin be flipped upward for the lenses to be mounted. The DoF preview lever should not be used for metering with lenses that engage with the meter coupling lever. Two things to check on your camera -- ensure that the film ISO is set correctly on the camera when loading the film and also that the EV compensation dial is set to neutral.
Thank you! Good catch. For that, just press the lever inward (IIRC, it's been a few months since I used this camera) and then the aperture will stop down. What you can then see in the viewfinder is a good gauge of the DoF on the image.
So useful! This is the most comprehensive video about Nikon FE❤ really appreciated. By the way I have a question, the first roll of film taken by my new FE only a half of it was exposed, the other half was unexposed, why did it happen?
I would realy like to watch video from you about olympus pen FE. Currently looking of it and will be nice to know everything. And thanks :) you halped me to select and buy my first film camera :)
Hell yeah this is an epic video! I just picked one of these up as is off eBay for 70 bucks. Wish me luck lol any chance you have advice or resource for how to maintain or even refurbish one of these? I'm pretty handy and for $70 I'm not afraid to take it apart.
Very helpful! I just got my FE and haven't even taken a photo yet but now I feel like I have a good starting point! Do you think you'd ever do a maintenance video? While poking around my camera, I noticed the felt/rubber padding that the viewfinder mirror swings up into has turned to dust/goo and so it basically fell off when I gave it a slight poke (it was also dropping little contaminants on the various optics). Is that an easy thing to replace? Will it damage the mirror if I go without it?
Thank you! For your maintenance question, it sounds like you're asking about the light seals and mirror bumper: th-cam.com/video/Tfk0Si1Bvq8/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@DavidHancock thanks! I bought some yarn and will do that replacement eventually. Your guide to the FE focus plate (?) was really helpful and I was able to replace the bumper on it 🤓
Thank you for the video, David. Regarding the example given for metering the scene at around 27:36: Let's say my friend is sitting in the light, enjoying the sun. He/she is my main focus point. But there is a dog in the shadows I don't want to lose. I'd still meter the way explained ("for the shadows"), correct? Or would I look for something in between, e. g. the shadows cast by my friend.
Thank you and hoo boy that's a tough metering situation for a film camera. If the scene were static and I had a moment to calculate exposure, here is how I would do that: 1- Take a meter reading on your friend, let's pretend it's 1/500 at f/5.6 2- Take a meter reading on the dog, let's pretend it's 1/30 at f/5.6 3- Split the difference (500-250-125-60-30) so 1/125 at f/5.6 In reality, in that setting I'd try for three shots -- 1/60, 1/125, and 1/250. One of those three would probably be okay. You'd need to use manual mode for that in this approach.
@@DavidHancock okay, so the results seem to be the same when using the zone system, resulting in 1/125 or 1/250, depending on if you put the dog into II or III? However, since the FE doesn't use spot metering, the read 1/30 is already slightly faster resulting in some more light, correct? And if the reading on my friend is 1/1000 (let's assume the shadows are really dark), your method takes that into account, but the zone system doesn't. So which one would work better then if time is not a factor?
@@barium5675 I would go with the method I described and split the reading with the goal of recovering the shadows and highlights in post. The zone scale is more for providing a gradation relationship. The reading splitting is more for ascertaining exposure settings.
hi david, thank you for this helpful video! i just bought my first nikon fe camera on ebay, and have been learning about how it functions. i am wondering if you would be willing to share your thoughts on an issue i am having. when i set my shutter speed to 60 or faster, i am unable fully pull the film advance lever back to advance the film…it jams. i am wondering if you are familiar with this issue?
So there’s a possibility my in-camera light meter is way off due to age? It’s giving me readings way off from the “sunny 16” settings I’ve read about. (Finally bought film for this FE from my uncle 20 years ago I put away and never tried out because I was 14 and too intimidated. Hahaha!)
The first things to check are: 1- The film speed is set correctly 2- EV compensation is set to neutral 3- The DoF is not used during metering (except with NAI lenses) 4- With AI lenses, the meter coupling is engaged with the lens and rotating with the aperture ring It's more likely that one of those is the culprit, but if the answers are yes, yes, yes, and yes then there may be an issue.
There area few possibilities -- it could be that the caddy is jammed or stuck, you may not be pressing the release far enough, too. Those are the most likely possibilities.
Honestly I don't know. I take those off the cameras that I have owned. There may be some collector value in it. The only camera that I would leave it on is a K1000 to prove the body was made in Japan.
I'm quite new to film photography and just bought a Nikon FE. This was the best video I could have watched - not only to get set up but also to improve my understanding of how the camera works. You explain things so clearly and in such detail. Thanks so much for this video - it's much appreciated! 😊
Thank you and great choice!
Just got a mint condition FE. This video was really helpful to understand all of it's functions. Didn't know about the replaceable focusing screen. What a piece of technology!
Nice!
wow. such a great explanation, and published right before I discovered my dad’s old FE. Thanks!
Thank you!
Thanks, David. I’m grateful that you share your knowledge in such a clear and thorough way, so the rest of us can enjoy this hobby. I’ve been learning to shoot the FE mostly through this video series.
Thank you and that's a great camera to learn with, too!
I have been a Nikon fan for my whole life (since getting a D3000 back in 2009 when I was 16). I got into film photography a couple years ago now with an ollld Leica that was passed down to me, and just the other day picked up a Nikon FE after getting tired of the troublesome quirks of the old 1937 Leica. It's so much fun learning a more modern SLR 35mm camera, and I am a bit in awe of what Nikon was able to accomplish back in the mid 70s with this camera. Thanks so much for the two excellent guides David!
Thank you!
You can thank Leica and Elektra for making cameras so good. Nikon copied and improved on the Leica and Elektra perfected the pentaprism, making it the first successful SLR camera. Nikon just made the best SLRs. Nikon actually bested Lecia. Both the F and F2 were superior and very successful cameras. They went to war, they were the camera of choice for the news media and with professions of all sorts.
Amazing video thank you so much for putting in the time!🙏
Thank you!
beautiful camera and beautifully explained. thank you, david!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for uploading and sharing in detailed understanding about FE! Bought mine few days ago and as a beginner in film photography, this video truly helped me!
Thank you!
Thank you so much! These videos are so well made and so informative!
Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video David! You have no idea how helpful this was. I always favoured using my FM vs my FE because I didn't understand the metering feature but you've explained it beautifully. I can't wait to go out and shoot my FE this weekend.
Thank you!
So detailed, David. Thank you for your help. I’m getting this camera back today, I had it serviced because it sat unused for decades. I was a little intimidated because I’ve never shot an slr….you’ve definitely answered many of my questions. Thanks, again. 👍📸
Thank you!
You can actually set your exposure to any value you like with your aperture. A Nikon camera lets you choose only fixed times, but you can use any aperture between the fixed aperture-stops. This means you can set your aperture e.g. to 8.2 and the camera will make a proper exposure. That's really helpful if you are working with slidefilm and try to nail exposure as good as possible.
Nice! I didn't know that. Thank you! I will be giving that a shot next time the FE gets some time outside.
Isn't that what happens in any camera that has apperture priority? 😅
I can't be the only one that noticed the smiley face on the film at 11:37 right? 😆
:D
Great Video. I've been shooting my FE for a few years now, and did not realize the exposure trip about automatic stop down metering. I usually use manual; but the auto information was very helpful.
Thank you!
Great instructional video. Thanks a bunch
Thank you!
This video is very clear to explain FE how to understand exposure result, thanks a lot your creation.
Thank you!
great video. I'll start with automatic mode and maybe come back in a few weeks ! ;)! So much to learn about such a little piece
Thank you and good approach!
Thanks for the clear and informative video. I got one of these second hand over twenty years ago when digital cameras were still in their infancy, and the Nikon F3 was king of the castle at about €1000. In 2004 I got a D70 which was the best "user level" Nikon digital camera at the time, and I still use it on a daily basis today. It's curious to see how the "MASP" manual functions on modern digital cameras derived from the "Auto" mode on the FE, there's a logical progression there passing through how the Minolta Dynax 404si operates, albeit with film rather than a photocell. I still think that the FE is more fun and more rewarding to use than the D70, and thinking about balancing shutter speed and aperture is a great discipline, and helps me get a lot more out of my digital equipment. Ideally I'd like my kids to learn how to use the FE, but unfortunately they're wedded to pointing and shooting with their mobile phones.
Thanks for the video David! Was wondering why so many of my narrower aperture shots came out completely unexposed. So shooting at narrower apertures, you should use the meter reading with the DOF lever pressed down?
Thank you! For the DoF Preview lever, it should only be used on Per-AI and NAI (same thing, different names) lenses that require the meter coupling pin be flipped upward for the lenses to be mounted. The DoF preview lever should not be used for metering with lenses that engage with the meter coupling lever.
Two things to check on your camera -- ensure that the film ISO is set correctly on the camera when loading the film and also that the EV compensation dial is set to neutral.
Great 2 part videos, thank you! Came from video 1 looking for the info on the DOF preview in this video but don't find it.
Thank you! Good catch. For that, just press the lever inward (IIRC, it's been a few months since I used this camera) and then the aperture will stop down. What you can then see in the viewfinder is a good gauge of the DoF on the image.
So useful! This is the most comprehensive video about Nikon FE❤ really appreciated. By the way I have a question, the first roll of film taken by my new FE only a half of it was exposed, the other half was unexposed, why did it happen?
Thank you!
I would realy like to watch video from you about olympus pen FE. Currently looking of it and will be nice to know everything. And thanks :) you halped me to select and buy my first film camera :)
Thank you and what's the Nikon Pen FE? I'm not familiar with that camera.
olympus pen FE.i wrote it wrong :/@@DavidHancock
Hell yeah this is an epic video! I just picked one of these up as is off eBay for 70 bucks. Wish me luck lol any chance you have advice or resource for how to maintain or even refurbish one of these? I'm pretty handy and for $70 I'm not afraid to take it apart.
Nice! I do not have refurb tips, but the Fix Old Cameras channel might.
Very helpful! I just got my FE and haven't even taken a photo yet but now I feel like I have a good starting point! Do you think you'd ever do a maintenance video? While poking around my camera, I noticed the felt/rubber padding that the viewfinder mirror swings up into has turned to dust/goo and so it basically fell off when I gave it a slight poke (it was also dropping little contaminants on the various optics). Is that an easy thing to replace? Will it damage the mirror if I go without it?
Thank you! For your maintenance question, it sounds like you're asking about the light seals and mirror bumper: th-cam.com/video/Tfk0Si1Bvq8/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@DavidHancock thanks! I bought some yarn and will do that replacement eventually. Your guide to the FE focus plate (?) was really helpful and I was able to replace the bumper on it 🤓
@@jetli626 fantastic!
Thank you for the video, David. Regarding the example given for metering the scene at around 27:36: Let's say my friend is sitting in the light, enjoying the sun. He/she is my main focus point. But there is a dog in the shadows I don't want to lose. I'd still meter the way explained ("for the shadows"), correct? Or would I look for something in between, e. g. the shadows cast by my friend.
Thank you and hoo boy that's a tough metering situation for a film camera. If the scene were static and I had a moment to calculate exposure, here is how I would do that:
1- Take a meter reading on your friend, let's pretend it's 1/500 at f/5.6
2- Take a meter reading on the dog, let's pretend it's 1/30 at f/5.6
3- Split the difference (500-250-125-60-30) so 1/125 at f/5.6
In reality, in that setting I'd try for three shots -- 1/60, 1/125, and 1/250. One of those three would probably be okay. You'd need to use manual mode for that in this approach.
@@DavidHancock okay, so the results seem to be the same when using the zone system, resulting in 1/125 or 1/250, depending on if you put the dog into II or III? However, since the FE doesn't use spot metering, the read 1/30 is already slightly faster resulting in some more light, correct? And if the reading on my friend is 1/1000 (let's assume the shadows are really dark), your method takes that into account, but the zone system doesn't. So which one would work better then if time is not a factor?
@@barium5675 I would go with the method I described and split the reading with the goal of recovering the shadows and highlights in post. The zone scale is more for providing a gradation relationship. The reading splitting is more for ascertaining exposure settings.
@@DavidHancock thanks!
hi david, thank you for this helpful video! i just bought my first nikon fe camera on ebay, and have been learning about how it functions. i am wondering if you would be willing to share your thoughts on an issue i am having. when i set my shutter speed to 60 or faster, i am unable fully pull the film advance lever back to advance the film…it jams. i am wondering if you are familiar with this issue?
Just to check, does the camera have fresh batteries?
@@DavidHancock yes, the batteries are brand new, and the battery check lever shows that the batteries are working/lights up red.👍🏻
@@RebeccaMoore-q2n I'd run this past the Fix Old Cameras channel. That sounds like it might be an issue that needs a repair.
@@DavidHancock okay thank you!
Great video
Thank you!
So there’s a possibility my in-camera light meter is way off due to age? It’s giving me readings way off from the “sunny 16” settings I’ve read about. (Finally bought film for this FE from my uncle 20 years ago I put away and never tried out because I was 14 and too intimidated. Hahaha!)
The first things to check are:
1- The film speed is set correctly
2- EV compensation is set to neutral
3- The DoF is not used during metering (except with NAI lenses)
4- With AI lenses, the meter coupling is engaged with the lens and rotating with the aperture ring
It's more likely that one of those is the culprit, but if the answers are yes, yes, yes, and yes then there may be an issue.
Can you use the exposure lock in manual mode?
No because there's no need to. The camera won't change settings but itself in manual mode.
I can't seem to pop the focusing screen out even though I pushed the notch as you did.
There area few possibilities -- it could be that the caddy is jammed or stuck, you may not be pressing the release far enough, too. Those are the most likely possibilities.
My FE doesn’t have a blue needle. Is this a defect?
Is it an FE or a different model?
Why do people leave the passed sticker on the pentaprism housing
Honestly I don't know. I take those off the cameras that I have owned. There may be some collector value in it. The only camera that I would leave it on is a K1000 to prove the body was made in Japan.
11:36 :)
Why ignore FE2, a better FE.
I made those videos about six or seven years ago. I'll remake them when I have an FE2 on hand again.