How to MOVE a RADIATOR using PUSHFIT pipe. JG Speedfit plumbing. DIY remove and fit a radiator.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I show a complete step by step guide of how to remove a radiator from one wall and fix to another including everything needed to lift your floor boards, drain the central heating system, remove and refit the radiator, cut and refit new plastic Speedfit plumbing, repressurise the system, and get everything working again.
For the products used in the video click here:
JG speedfit 10mm pipe - amzn.to/4cc3Xu1
JG speedfit 10mm straight coupler - amzn.to/3VgMXfp
JG speedfit 10mm elbow - amzn.to/3XaF0Lf
JG speedfit pipe insert 10mm - amzn.to/45eAWM3
Corefix screws - amzn.to/4ccZF5x
Inhibitor - amzn.to/3xa3TvU
For the tools used in the video click here:
Plastic pipe cutter - amzn.to/3KBNZxx
Copper pipe cutter - amzn.to/4cfykj1
Radiator bleed key - amzn.to/3xeg8HR
LXT SDS Drill - amzn.to/47n9zjx
Makita impact driver & drill plus batteries - amzn.to/2txC1Rn
Makita LXT 18v 5Ah Li-ion batteries - amzn.to/3mAMMbU
Makita LXT 18V Cordless Multi-Tool with Accessories - amzn.to/2QQxLo1
Stanley 8m measuring tape - amzn.to/37XWzBu
Makita mixed drill set - amzn.to/2wSWgdU
Numatic ‘Henry’ Hoover - amzn.to/2T6ZseG
Henry Hepaflo Vacuum Bags - amzn.to/2Yyk42t
Adjustable spanner set - amzn.to/2uAVOAd
Small adjustable spanner - amzn.to/35bSoFN
Dewalt PZ2 driver bits (25PK) - amzn.to/2TC6F6n
Stanley spirit level - amzn.to/37jCbMX
For my other videos click here:
How to use push fit pipe - • How to use push fit pi...
Remove and refit a radiator - • How to remove & refit ...
Corefix, how to fix to dot & dab wall - • How to FIX to DOT & DA...
Loft conversion Pt 38, fit the floorboards - • Loft conversion Part 3...
How to fit a TV bracket - • How to fit a TV wall b...
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Thanks for watching!
#JGspeedfit #radiatorinstall #DIYplumbing #pouse #howtoplumbing
I used Speedfit pipe to replace most of the hidden pipework and all the radiators in my previous house. It was so easy to use and I never had any trouble with it. I sold the house about 7 or 8 years later, everything was still working fine. Going to use it again in current house. 😂
I've had speedfit in house for 10 years as well and no issues to date. Thanks for the comment and thanks for watching 👍
Excellent video. Ah the golden years of proper floorboards
Proper floor boards but gaps everywhere. New floor boards are great if you don't need to get back under them! Thanks for watching 👍
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE
I used be an electrician. I was taught to carefully cut tounge and groove boards so they still fitted back snuggly. Others weren’t so neat
Thanks Pouse, I love the way you give all the details needed to undertake a job, anticipating all the possible issues we might face. I have laid floors and installed lighting following your guides, not only saving money and time, but more importantly feeling confident safety wise. Having worked in an FE college, you would make a brilliant teacher, shame teachers are so under valued in the UK that even if you wanted to, it wouldn't be worth your time as you would probably earn more doing TH-cam!
Unfortunately youtube doesn't pay that much given the time I have to put into videos, but I'm able to do it alongside the day job hense why I upload 5 vids a year 😂 However it's great when I hear it's helping people with their projects as we've all been there! Thanks for the kind words.
Enjoyed that video very informative 👍 YES good job, mate 👏 🐟
Great guide, I used your videos years ago to learn how to do some wiring in my newly bought house, my first introduction to Wagos, still got my CK wire strippers.. now I'm moving a radiator and watching you again. Glad you're still going, I've hit subscribe this time.. cheers!
Glad my vids are still of use. Thanks for the sub 👍
Full of good tips and advice, tidy job mate, great video
Thanks 👍
Absolutely brilliant demo ! 😊
Many thanks!
It's very interesting. I am doing level 2 plumbing. I really appreciate your videos and I subscribed you
Great vid 👍, how can i add another radiator to existing pipe work ?
Thanks mate. Very useful, as I need to do exactly this in one of our rooms
No problem 👍
Brilliant content 😊
Yes, another great video , you got any on doing a wet room shower, as always great content
Literally just did this exact thing. Good to know I did this right. Shat myself when I saw pressure dropping a couple of days later -- turns out didn't shut off the drain off fully and it was leaking slightly, so easily sorted. Oops.
Also in my case my floorboards were T+G so ran mini circular saw (with depth set) along joins to remove the tongue before lifting.
Also don't be a donut and try and fill the system with inhibitor via a radiator in a room you've just decorated, while the system is pressurised, or you will be redecorating and hoping your wife doesn't notice. Don't ask me how I know.
I actually loosened the trv valve not thinking after decorating following this video. Luckily the spray was across the front of the wall not directly on it so a few wet wipes with a gentle action saved the day! No idea what I was thinking 😂
Shit not shat ?
Great informative vid mate. Keep em coming. 👏
Thanks, will do!
Enjoyed that video very informative 👍 Yes good job 👏 🐟
Thanks for the kind words 👍
Excellent, as always.
Thanks for the kind words 👍
Thanks, glad I watched this, esp about the pipe inserts.
About to add at least 2 rads to the system, which is a 22mm copper pipe circuit with 15mm spurs to existing rads. Planning to divert the circuit to the new rads. Do I stick to 22mm or would 15mm for the diverted feed be OK or too restrictive? That is, along a section of the complete circuit? Planning on using 'plastic' pipe regardless. I was going to use rigid pipe, but most of the pipework will be hidden or not too obvious. I hope I can minimise joins with flexible pipe but I guess there are limits to the angle of turn. Also, what would the best place to tap into the circuit - Closely before the pump input or last ones along the circuit?
😀
Great stuff thanks
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thanks for the video. Is it just me or are 10mm inserts really hard to push into the pipe, should they be lubricated or something first?
Yes they're quite tough, give them a good push! Best of luck. Thanks for watching 👍
Dear Pouse, is it possible to add a new radiator to the system rather than simply move one? Would you just add it in series with the existing radiators?
As you see in the video there will be a main flow and return to radiators from boiler, usually in 22mm pipe, then 10mm or 15mm pipe from this to the radiator and back to the main pipes. So you should add tge new radiator from the main flow and return (22mm). Look at 2 minutes 10secs in the video. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching 👍
?👍🍺?@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE
As a time served plumber and heating engineer over 30 years keep going on this crap keeps me employed
I'm not sure why everyone says it's crap? I've never had a problem. It's usually the installer is the problem, not the product. I'd be interested to know why you take issue with it?
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE I know few plumbers who really didn’t like plastic when it first started appearing. However, now they all use and happy to admit it’s great. I’ve used it a few times as a DIYer and never had a problem, except when I hadn’t pushed it in further enough! Great video.
Things advance old timer 😂
@Jan_-_- not for the better
Do you need to turn the boiler off before starting?
It's a good idea, but to be honest once the pressure is down, it'll have an error code and stop it from working anyway. Thanks for the question 👍
You can isolate flow and return of central heating,straight under boiler, that's way you don't need turn off boiler and have hot water in taps.
Nah leave the car running why you change the engine
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Glad I found your channel buddy, just about to do this to my own house. I have to move a radaitor from one side of my hall to the other and was dreading it but you have give me some confidence to tackle it.
Quick question is the quick type flexi pipe as leak proof as leak proof as copper with speed fit clips for below a concrete floor?
I actually changed every radaitor in my sisters 2 story house no problems as yet. I could attempt this myself as I like the diy and learn extremely fast. Thanks for the great video and keep up the awesome work man!
You gained a subscriber and a like 👍
If I had a kerosene oil heating would the moving and refill of the system be different. Also for the same system hod do i service it please.
Love the videos keep up the great work
To be honest, I'm not entirely sure. This is a combi (combination) boiler and has been a fairly standard installation for years. Although with times changing there are a variety of options out there now which may work differently. If I find out more info, I'll get back to you. Thanks for watching 👍
great video!! Do you have a video like this but moving the pipes from coming out of the floor to coming out of the wall?
I don't. But you'd either go behind the stud wall if you have one, or you'd have to chase the wall if it's masonry. I have a vid on how to chase a wall here which may help - th-cam.com/video/ew93KF53yms/w-d-xo.html
Great video mate. How do you know how much inhibitor to use?
My gas engineer just said whenever I drain the system, add a full small bottle. Hope that helps.
@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE brilliant! Thanks pal
I like using a 3 or 4mm masonry drill bit first, like a guiding pilot, because a thin bit does not slip off the mark as often as the 8 or 10mm ones do.
I also like to always vacuum the holes or use a (smoking) pipe cleaning brush (cilindrical) to remove dust from the drilled hole.
Another tip: I often find the need to drill with a 7,5mm bit for an 8mm plug. For this I grinded an 8mm sds bit a bit :), because 7,5mm is pretty much non existent for masonry. (Some do make hss metal bits tho. I might try using a 7mm masonry and then the 7,5mm hss bit for this kind of application. Sure, the bit will not cut mwtal anymore, it will be redesignated to be a masonry bit...)
Happy building, Everybody!
Great tips, thanks 👍
Remember to always close the radiator bleeder valves and drain off when topping up the boiler or you’ll realize the house is almost flooded 😂trust me I’ve been there
I've done it with a loose joint in the past so I know the feeling! Thanks for watching.
Just found your channel, great videos! Can i please check, can you use speedfit pipe for the radiator lock-shield and TRV? It would eliminate copper all together at the top.
Yes you can, but make sure you use the inserts, then use the brass olive and nut on the valve in the same way you would with copper. Best of luck with it.
Nice one . 😊
Thanks for watching 👍
Nice job and instruction on the Speedfit gear.
Is 10mm pipe common in older properties?
It really depends on how new the heating system is but 10mm is common certainly on feeds to and from radiators with combi boilers. But as mentioned in the video the main pipes to and from the boiler are 22mm to get the flow rate. I know back boilers (60's/70's) were usually 15mm pipes. Hope that helps.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE Thanks for the info. Love these types of video and the subtle comedy within 🤣
Also I’m based in Ireland. What would be the difference between Ireland and you
Any suggestions as to how to drain a system that lacks a drain valve?
You could find the lowest radiator in the system and loosen the nut on one of tge valves. If you loosen the nut on the pipe (not radiator) side of the valve, you can close tge valve yo stop radiator emptying, then quickly push a length of push fit pipe with an elbow over the copper and use that as a hose. You will get a bit of water over the floor no doubt and you may find the olive on the copper is in tge way. Lots of cloths and a large bucket 😂 Best of luck 👍
You might find there is a drain valve by the boiler and not near a radiator. If not you can buy self cutting drain off valves you attach to a relevant section of pipe, which you would then remove and replace with a permanent drain off or a replacement bit of pipe .
Biggest problem is getting rid of the air. My system has aavs in the loft being a bungalow all the radiators are below and even after bleeding all the radiators there is still some air in the system. It's a real pain.
AAVs can be fitted to radiators.
Thats some flexible squating mobility you have there
Thanks! Awful builders bum too! Thanks for watching 👍
10mm copper pipe means this property is in Manchester or Midlands .
Interesting theory!
Pushfit pipe oh my do it properly
I did. Thanks for watching.
I thought you weren't meant to use connectors where pipework is inaccessible?
They're fine until they leak! 😂
Hes good what about inserts
Inserts? Well make sure you use them!
Gas engineer will be spiting chips lol they hate plastic ...
Probably. I've used it for years and have to say it's great. Makes any job doable without out me cursing constantly! Thanks for watching.
@@POUSEaroundtheHOUSE also if u have a slight leak on a join its easier to sort
my gas engineer used this and when I watched him do it it looked so easy it inspired me to have a go the next time. going plastic all the way to rad is better I think… I want as few joints as possible
I'll leave if too complicated.
Fancy moving a radiator for me bud? 😅