Simplest, easiest design/build I've seen yet. Possible high-tech safety device for fuel cutoff. 120v normally-closed solenoid valve w/manual reset would shut off oil and keep it off if power went out then came back on.
Many thanks Kevin! I made a waste oil heater using an older round vertical stove and "The Rushing Oil/Air Delivery System". I use a thin stainless steel bowl because stainless steel heats up red hot in seconds, once the bowl glows, the oil vaporizes instantly and there is no smoke in a few minutes. For forced air, I use my air compressor since the heat is only on when I am using the shop.
I made a stove like this to heat a stone built hut back in the 1970s. I had no electricity, so couldn't add a fan, but it worked fine without one, just with the natural draught drawn up the chimney.
Kevin, good explanation of your burner. I'd appreciate you taking a look at mine. Very similar principal for sure as far as getting the air to swirl. I'm very much still in the process but on the down hill side for sure. I appreciate your attention to detail and clean builds. I subscribed because your picture makes me smile.
I like this build a lot and thanks for pointing out all the details. I think the flange is a great idea. If I was to improve on something it would be to replace the coleman fan with something else that's more quiet and efficient.
I have the Coleman blower in a box with insulation to dampen the noise. I had the same blower for years. Just replaced it a few months ago. The trick is to break it in slowly and keep it cool.
Thanks for info on these youtube videos Kevin Rushing . Going to be picking up a stove this weekend to turn it into a waste oil heater. Cant wait to work in the garage with heat.
Great video. In Canada it's so darn expensive for heating. So much Government regulations. A little more money for the family instead of the government.
You people of canada....can you help me with more information about this burner oil waste? My name is victor villablanca i live in Valdivia city on Chile....my email is villablancagatica@gmail.com and my celular phone is +56957262158
Good detail in the video. I like your disclaimer, which was a very good idea by the way. I've been thinking of a compressed air atomized mist kind of delivery, but the drip system seems to be bullet proof...at least as long as gravity remains a constant. Good job sir.
So years ago, before the internet, I did this to a wood stove in my shop. It worked really well for quite a while. One day while it was running in my shop, I got distracted by an intruder on the property. about 45 minutes later when I got back. The entire stove and stove pipe were red hot. Glowing, almost white, and it was burning like a jet engine. Luckily I had a well casing as a stove pipe and it held up. It was insanely scary. My shop was all metal, there was nothing around it to burn and a concrete floor, It took it like 3 hours to burn down. I used up four fire extinguishers on it. They were useless. water would immediately flash to steam. not an option. going to build another one but it will have safety features. Be careful guys
I had a similar experience. You’re right, once that oil gets hot it’s hard to put the fire out. I even shut off all access to air and it still continued to burn for quite awhile. It was explained to me that’s the reason for the feed pipes being inside the burn pan so that if the oil level gets too high it will choke off the air and kill the fire. I’m not sure it would work, especially with forced air.
At first it sounds contradictory, but adding oil to an oil fire can help cool it down and put it out. By mixing cold oil with the burning oil, it will cool down the burning oil and make it easier to extinguish when it gets closer to not being of a self igniting temp. Water on oil is a no go.
@@KeithBair Well you're right about one thing, it is counterintuitive, since I had oil running onto it continuously for 45 minutes. It doesn't seem like leaving it on would have solved the problem. Conversely, it would have run out of the stove and into my shop. As I said this is before the internet, I had never seen or heard of such a thing. I just sort of invented it. a total science experiment. Scared me so bad I never did it again. during this I got burned so bad I had to go to the ER. Oil spattered on me from the fire extinguishers. burning oil. after watching a bunch of videos about it I am going to try it again. Although with much caution.
Hi, VERY NICE and thought-out design, simple but extremely fuctional for sure. As for safety, why don't you put an In-Line Solenoid (Before the Drip Control) to STOP the fuel at a certain Temperature? Use a Snap Disc and when the Temps reaches a certain point. The solenoid would CUT-OFF fuel line... That way your Stove would NEVER burn over the desired temps :))). So fire wouldn't be an issue if unattended or when you walk away or even forget even :D
Jordan Bronson I had a similar thought what cut off valve are you talking about I’m not familiar with snap disc I was thinking about a sprinkler valve that was controlled by a thermostat instead of timer
looks pretty cool ...could you give a ball park figure on how long the oil lasts ..gallons per hour or whatever ...i've looked at some of these and they are complicated ...you made it simple ..i got an old wood stove that cracked but i can weld and i got a skidder so i got lots of burnt oil and gear oil ..thanks again for posting
@@KevinRushing63 awesome ..my garage is fairly well insulated ...its 5 degrees outside and in the garage with no heat is 40..its just big enough for one car and a few workbenches and other junk ..so i likely wouldn't have to run it very long ..thanks again ..this will save me some wood cutting for a little bit
Excellent breakdown of your components! The "100 degree switch that turns your fan on when it gets hot enough". Do you have a name for that and where did you get it? I looked on Amazon with no luck. Thanks for the great information!
It is a temperature switch found furnaces, air conditioners and other heating and cooling systems. It is a 100 or 120 degree F normally open switch. This switch closes at the rated temp allowing fan start. You can get it at most appliance or heating cooling specialists.
Kevin Rushing interesting one more question, at the end of your video during the disclaimer you mentioned that if the blower loses power it could cause trouble maybe a fire. Was that sarcasm or not, logic tells me that if the forced air stops the oil will go out or am I not thinking correctly. Thank you
idahodeerhunter the oil will still burn even if the blower stops. Because the blower helps with combustion, if it stoped, the oil could get in to an overflow situation with flames and all. Commercial models have sensors to stop the flow of oil if air or flame are lost.
Okay so I see you are mixing the oil with the air when it enters. So I am wondering if the air needs a fan? I've got a little tent stove like stove I made and hoping to get it to burn oil too.
I finished building mine tonight and I am having trouble getting it to stay lit. The only difference from yours is that the burner assembly enters the stove at a 45 degree angle. I light out using a rag with about am 1/8 cup kerosene. It lights and when I turn the fan on it really takes off. But then it just slowly Peters out, so I'm pretty sure that I'm having trouble getting the oil to burn on its own. Once it went out before my paper was done burning so I got some smoke, but it had a good enough swirl that none of the smoke was exiting the door. So I'm sure it has good swirl. One thing that I have noticed is that it takes three turns to get the pencil lead thick flow going, and that takes forever to actually get the flow started at the bowl. My bucket is about 4 foot above the bowl. And I'm using used engine oil. Currently a warm 45 degrees out so it shouldn't be too thick. Any ideas or tips?
hi there its nearly 4 years down the line are you still using the heater did you ever add any safety cut off's etc to the heater? if so what did you fit? thanks john
I haven't used it yet this year as I've been working out of town. The stove is the same as in the video except I added a metal oil can. Plastic is harder to seal. Still working well.
+Kevin Rushing after seeing your second vid I see you put the oil drip line at the end of the flame. what would happen if I dripped the oil inline before entering the burn chamber?
Wind Storm you could try but I think you'll get some oil splatter which would cause smoking. If it drips close to the end at the bottom of the air supply pipe it gets the oil out of the direct flow of air minimising splatter but is able to stay cool enough so that it doesn't slag up and plug. Hope that helps
sorry but I don't think you should be making videos on things that are unsafe my friend. as there are so many people. who will make a stove without thinking of the dangers .. aj England;''''
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 24 “จาร์เร็ด vs กุสตาโว”](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ENNA-fsT67c/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent. Piece of art. Simple and practical . Great explanation.
Thank you
Thanks for the advice, I followed your build and added my own mods and I have converted a wood stove to a very powerful heater for my garage.
I like your delivery on this video. As a fabricator, you covered everything well!
Best one I’ve seen on here, by far! Thanks for your advice Kevin.
Man I'm glad you made this follow-up video. Genius!!!
Glad you like
Simplest, easiest design/build I've seen yet. Possible high-tech safety device for fuel cutoff. 120v normally-closed solenoid valve w/manual reset would shut off oil and keep it off if power went out then came back on.
I’m trying to make one for my pole barn garage. You did a great job explaining how to build it. Thank you
Thanks for the great video teacher . Hopefully I'll be able to make my waste oil heater now .I love it. Awesome video 👍 thank you for taking the time
Many thanks Kevin! I made a waste oil heater using an older round vertical stove and "The Rushing Oil/Air Delivery System". I use a thin stainless steel bowl because stainless steel heats up red hot in seconds, once the bowl glows, the oil vaporizes instantly and there is no smoke in a few minutes. For forced air, I use my air compressor since the heat is only on when I am using the shop.
Awesome
thank you for this great video
Yup you answered my question do not leave it un attended in case the fan don't work thank you Kevin
I made a stove like this to heat a stone built hut back in the 1970s. I had no electricity, so couldn't add a fan, but it worked fine without one, just with the natural draught drawn up the chimney.
thanks for posting this video! I just converted a barrel stove over today using most of your design.
Great video. Now I have to go find a wood stove to make one. Thanks for sharing !!!
Kevin, good explanation of your burner. I'd appreciate you taking a look at mine. Very similar principal for sure as far as getting the air to swirl. I'm very much still in the process but on the down hill side for sure. I appreciate your attention to detail and clean builds. I subscribed because your picture makes me smile.
Scott Build-n-Fix Will do
I like this build a lot and thanks for pointing out all the details. I think the flange is a great idea. If I was to improve on something it would be to replace the coleman fan with something else that's more quiet and efficient.
I have the Coleman blower in a box with insulation to dampen the noise. I had the same blower for years. Just replaced it a few months ago. The trick is to break it in slowly and keep it cool.
Thanks for info on these youtube videos Kevin Rushing . Going to be picking up a stove this weekend to turn it into a waste oil heater. Cant wait to work in the garage with heat.
Can't wait to see a vid
Will do good sir. Mines going to be a little different but you gave me a great idea and start.
Good video, nice clear explanation. Thanks
Thanks for the video. A+
Thanks
Great video. In Canada it's so darn expensive for heating. So much Government regulations. A little more money for the family instead of the government.
You people of canada....can you help me with more information about this burner oil waste?
My name is victor villablanca i live in Valdivia city on Chile....my email is villablancagatica@gmail.com and my celular phone is +56957262158
Good detail in the video. I like your disclaimer, which was a very good idea by the way. I've been thinking of a compressed air atomized mist kind of delivery, but the drip system seems to be bullet proof...at least as long as gravity remains a constant. Good job sir.
Thanks for watching
Very nice
thanks a lot
Thanks
i left mine for 34 seconds and it exploded! great vid
solenoid valve connected to a thermostat which will stop the oil flow if flame goes out.
Where can i find the valve and thermostat?
In your opinion, whats the minimum and maximum cfm size blower that would work the most effectively. Many thanks, jp
So years ago, before the internet, I did this to a wood stove in my shop. It worked really well for quite a while. One day while it was running in my shop, I got distracted by an intruder on the property. about 45 minutes later when I got back. The entire stove and stove pipe were red hot. Glowing, almost white, and it was burning like a jet engine. Luckily I had a well casing as a stove pipe and it held up. It was insanely scary. My shop was all metal, there was nothing around it to burn and a concrete floor, It took it like 3 hours to burn down. I used up four fire extinguishers on it. They were useless. water would immediately flash to steam. not an option. going to build another one but it will have safety features. Be careful guys
I had a similar experience. You’re right, once that oil gets hot it’s hard to put the fire out. I even shut off all access to air and it still continued to burn for quite awhile. It was explained to me that’s the reason for the feed pipes being inside the burn pan so that if the oil level gets too high it will choke off the air and kill the fire. I’m not sure it would work, especially with forced air.
At first it sounds contradictory, but adding oil to an oil fire can help cool it down and put it out. By mixing cold oil with the burning oil, it will cool down the burning oil and make it easier to extinguish when it gets closer to not being of a self igniting temp. Water on oil is a no go.
@@KeithBair Well you're right about one thing, it is counterintuitive, since I had oil running onto it continuously for 45 minutes. It doesn't seem like leaving it on would have solved the problem. Conversely, it would have run out of the stove and into my shop. As I said this is before the internet, I had never seen or heard of such a thing. I just sort of invented it. a total science experiment. Scared me so bad I never did it again. during this I got burned so bad I had to go to the ER. Oil spattered on me from the fire extinguishers. burning oil. after watching a bunch of videos about it I am going to try it again. Although with much caution.
Cheers bruv
was that 3/8" copper tube? or 1/2 ...
Hi, VERY NICE and thought-out design, simple but extremely fuctional for sure. As for safety, why don't you put an In-Line Solenoid (Before the Drip Control) to STOP the fuel at a certain Temperature? Use a Snap Disc and when the Temps reaches a certain point. The solenoid would CUT-OFF fuel line... That way your Stove would NEVER burn over the desired temps :))). So fire wouldn't be an issue if unattended or when you walk away or even forget even :D
Jordan Bronson I had a similar thought what cut off valve are you talking about I’m not familiar with snap disc I was thinking about a sprinkler valve that was controlled by a thermostat instead of timer
looks pretty cool ...could you give a ball park figure on how long the oil lasts ..gallons per hour or whatever ...i've looked at some of these and they are complicated ...you made it simple ..i got an old wood stove that cracked but i can weld and i got a skidder so i got lots of burnt oil and gear oil ..thanks again for posting
There are a lot of factors but my stove uses about 5 gallons in 8 hours
@@KevinRushing63 awesome ..my garage is fairly well insulated ...its 5 degrees outside and in the garage with no heat is 40..its just big enough for one car and a few workbenches and other junk ..so i likely wouldn't have to run it very long ..thanks again ..this will save me some wood cutting for a little bit
@James Short where can we find your video
drain hole several inches above burn pot - secondary measure if flame goes out. oil will then escape out safety drain into secondary catch reservoir.
Kevin, still would like to know where and what model coleman blower u used. Still confused. Thanks
JP Haynes I'm using one you can get at any Wal-Mart or sporting goods store. It's for inflating air mattresses.
Is it just me or does Kevin look like a skinny Larry the cable guy. : )
Kevin, how big a hole did u drill in back of stove 3/4 inch?
jp jpk that would work
Excellent breakdown of your components! The "100 degree switch that turns your fan on when it gets hot enough".
Do you have a name for that and where did you get it? I looked on Amazon with no luck.
Thanks for the great information!
It is a temperature switch found furnaces, air conditioners and other heating and cooling systems. It is a 100 or 120 degree F normally open switch. This switch closes at the rated temp allowing fan start. You can get it at most appliance or heating cooling specialists.
Thanks for tracking down the info Kevin!
Can't wait to start the build! :)
Would you happen to have a link to the blower you have?
Looking at getting one......thanks
me too
how would you compare the heat output to burning wood? real curious, i like the idea of this
idahodeerhunter it can be much hotter but much easier to control.
Kevin Rushing interesting one more question, at the end of your video during the disclaimer you mentioned that if the blower loses power it could cause trouble maybe a fire. Was that sarcasm or not, logic tells me that if the forced air stops the oil will go out or am I not thinking correctly. Thank you
idahodeerhunter the oil will still burn even if the blower stops. Because the blower helps with combustion, if it stoped, the oil could get in to an overflow situation with flames and all. Commercial models have sensors to stop the flow of oil if air or flame are lost.
Kevin Rushing makes sense thanks for the reply
Okay so I see you are mixing the oil with the air when it enters. So I am wondering if the air needs a fan? I've got a little tent stove like stove I made and hoping to get it to burn oil too.
Watch the video i have of the oil heater made from a wood stove.
How much carbon build up do you get... I gave a similar set up but I gave to clean the bowl daily
Hardly ever if you have enough air flow. Maybe once a week of continuous use
where did you get your temperature switch and needle valve?? Any info would help!!
GRAINGER.Com
@@KevinRushing63 Thanks!!!
Is your blower ac or dc? I tried wiring a dimmer switch at first then a fan controller to a 12v dc air pump with no luck
It is AC. Normal home lighting dimmer switches only work on AC. You would need to buy one rated for DC to use it on DC lights
There are a number of safety devices that one can install in order to be able leave the stove unattended.
How long would you say a 5 gallon bucket of oil last? Nice vid btw!
I'm guessing about 8 hrs depending on the size of flame and Thank you
How long does a gallon of oil heat for how many hours
5 gallons lasts 8 to 10 hours roughly.
I finished building mine tonight and I am having trouble getting it to stay lit. The only difference from yours is that the burner assembly enters the stove at a 45 degree angle.
I light out using a rag with about am 1/8 cup kerosene.
It lights and when I turn the fan on it really takes off. But then it just slowly Peters out, so I'm pretty sure that I'm having trouble getting the oil to burn on its own.
Once it went out before my paper was done burning so I got some smoke, but it had a good enough swirl that none of the smoke was exiting the door. So I'm sure it has good swirl.
One thing that I have noticed is that it takes three turns to get the pencil lead thick flow going, and that takes forever to actually get the flow started at the bowl.
My bucket is about 4 foot above the bowl. And I'm using used engine oil. Currently a warm 45 degrees out so it shouldn't be too thick.
Any ideas or tips?
Before you light make sure you have a pool of oil to burn
What is the fitting at the bucket so the oil does not leak out of buckett?
Yeah. It’s a quick disconnect fitting so I can fill the bucket with oil
Nice dog
how about putting some isolation it the roof :)
Where can I buy that coleman blower?
Any sporting goods store that sells camping stuff.. it is an air mattress pump.
Does the copper pipe HAVE to be inside the black pipe or can it run next to it?
jeickholt17 Yes. Copper gets soft at lower temperatures and will also slab up causing it to plug. You'll be constantly unplugging it.
Kevin Rushing thanks for the reply. Im trying to figure out how to run my copper in the tube, but cant get it past the 90 degree bends
jeickholt17 shouldn't be a 90 in the copper
hello there whats the dimmer for?
Juan Luis Sandoval it varies the speed of the blower
the phase angle dimmer might be problematic with an induction motor.
Haven’t had any problems with it
hi there
its nearly 4 years down the line are you still using the heater
did you ever add any safety cut off's etc to the heater?
if so what did you fit?
thanks john
I haven't used it yet this year as I've been working out of town. The stove is the same as in the video except I added a metal oil can. Plastic is harder to seal. Still working well.
what would be the difference if I dripped the oil in before entering the heater?
nice heater btw!
Wind Storm I'm not sure what you mean
+Kevin Rushing after seeing your second vid I see you put the oil drip line at the end of the flame. what would happen if I dripped the oil inline before entering the burn chamber?
Wind Storm you could try but I think you'll get some oil splatter which would cause smoking. If it drips close to the end at the bottom of the air supply pipe it gets the oil out of the direct flow of air minimising splatter but is able to stay cool enough so that it doesn't slag up and plug. Hope that helps
+Kevin Rushing thanks
What is that bowl
A stainless steel bowl from walmart
Are you burning waste engine oil.?. That’s my source.. btw dried up this week.. I’ll be moving to rocket mass heater next yr...
I'm burning mostly transmission fluid
okay... sorry - it's 3/8"... wish I could see the brass fitting close up.
Ok I understand.. I mix as much Trans fluid as I can... but now my foes is out with no source.
Thanks
this is a copy of 1940,s Babbington burner been around forever
You have woodprix spammers.
K koo
th-cam.com/video/_fNUeesJXJM/w-d-xo.html Видео . У меня как то проще и надёжнее.Всё управляется .Yrii.
sorry but I don't think you should be making videos on things that are unsafe my friend. as there are so many people. who will make a stove without thinking of the dangers .. aj England;''''
I totally agree. Don't make one
@@KevinRushing63 lol I just subscribed.
so wye do it . but there again there is a lot of crap in the uk . that as come from the usa
What about all the crap from the UK coming to the USA
Yep, there’s always that special one ! 🤦🏻