Thank you Div, This is very interesting. I need to to cut my "F100" coil spring as well. Glad I came across this. I will tell do what I did. I have a toyota hilux suspension in my F100. I only wanted to drop a small amount (say 20mm). The details of this I will reveal in a video which I will share shortly. I removed the entire Macpherson Struct assembly. Then I made a mock replacement shock comprising Square tubing and threaded round bar. I welded a small piece of square tubing at the bottom on a vertical piece of square tubing to form a tee. And welded a the threaded bar into the top of the vertical section of square tubing. Added a a few nuts and washers at the top and bolt through the bottom. Doesn't have to be square tubing ( That's what i had lying around). This mock up replacement shock if you want to call it that, I installed into the suspension in the stock location where the Macpherson struct used to be. the threaded bar gave me the adjustment i need to set the truck at the required ride height. so now I can finalize my stance / ride height. etc, This allowed me to continue working without cutting the spring yet. I was going to cut the spring 20mm. now maybe i only need 10mm. Glad i came across you post. I hope what i am saying makes sense.
That cut off wheel wont put enough heat in the spring to hurt nothing. Ive actualy welded coils back together and drove for couple yrs befor selling them never had any issues.
Hey Sean. I got thinking like this: If you lower the truck on the standard spring, it will compress until it can carry the weight of the vehicle. This is the Load rate - the amount of weight that is designed to carry at specific ride height. If I now add more weight, the spring will compress more, right. But instead of adding more weight, I shorten the spring some. The weight remains the same, but I now have less spring material - the spring has to compress more until it settles at new ride height. So, the change has to be the vertical amount I cut off, PLUS the additional compression. Question is, how much is this? You get fancy formulas, but you need a lot of info, stuff related to type of steel used etc. Too much for us mere mortals... So, I searched for an easier way. - 2 car spring manufacturers in the States said the same thing: If you cut 1" from a tangential car spring, you will get 2" of body drop. Eaton Springs and Global West Suspensions. I guess they know what they talking about, so I'm going with that! Time will tell...
@@ratrodsafrica It makes sense. So it's not exactly 2x, but that's a pretty good thumb suck. I have zero spring theory myself, so this is interesting. Thanks!
@@seanhammon6639 I'm on a journey of discovery and learning myself! Happy to share. Ja, thumbsuck based on typical tangential automotive spring and a cut of 1". I'm pretty sure that factor will increase as you cut off more...
Thank you Div, This is very interesting. I need to to cut my "F100" coil spring as well. Glad I came across this. I will tell do what I did. I have a toyota hilux suspension in my F100. I only wanted to drop a small amount (say 20mm). The details of this I will reveal in a video which I will share shortly. I removed the entire Macpherson Struct assembly. Then I made a mock replacement shock comprising Square tubing and threaded round bar. I welded a small piece of square tubing at the bottom on a vertical piece of square tubing to form a tee. And welded a the threaded bar into the top of the vertical section of square tubing. Added a a few nuts and washers at the top and bolt through the bottom. Doesn't have to be square tubing ( That's what i had lying around). This mock up replacement shock if you want to call it that, I installed into the suspension in the stock location where the Macpherson struct used to be. the threaded bar gave me the adjustment i need to set the truck at the required ride height. so now I can finalize my stance / ride height. etc, This allowed me to continue working without cutting the spring yet. I was going to cut the spring 20mm. now maybe i only need 10mm. Glad i came across you post. I hope what i am saying makes sense.
Ja, I understand. Safer to rather cut too little at first, not so easy to put it back...
Thank you for sharing love the way you explain your theory
You are welcome. Thanks man!
Twin I beams were notoriously difficult for alignment problems, even when new. I knew a man that had them heated and bent to solve the problem ⚡️
The difficulty with them is setting camber. Ford actually had a special tool for bending the beam should it be required.
You don't know shit my truck has never had any issues with alignment and it has all its twin I beams
Lol my tires are bald on the outside and brand new on the inside @ratrodsafrica
Thank You for the Good Stuff
As us Aussies say, you’re flying a bit low around 11min mark! An unfortunate distraction. Loving watching your vids
Would be awesome to see your place in person lol !!!! Hope yall have an awesome day 😀 say hi to everyone for me lol 😆
Come visit!😀
Very nice job duff.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Pleasure man!
this was very helpful
If I can help someone through this platform, it makes me feel good! Thanks, appreciate your comment.
I got all the spares you ever need, give me a shout, in Cape Town, spare springs too
Good to know! Looking for new radios arm bushes? Also in the market for a Ford V8...
@@divdevilliers4875 give us a shout here is my channel
th-cam.com/channels/--LFFR_5t1vriojqJDHrlA.html
thanks
Just as a side note, if you know a blacksmith they love coil spring metal for their projects, at least in the US.
You need to drop the end of the axle that attaches to the frame the same amount as you want to lower the truck.
That is probably doable, but a huge job!
Your trousers fly is undone man!
Shit happens 😅
So final result was 1 full ring? Or did you go back to 11/2 rings?? Curious
Ended up with 1 and half coils cut off.
That cut off wheel wont put enough heat in the spring to hurt nothing. Ive actualy welded coils back together and drove for couple yrs befor selling them never had any issues.
Best to play it safe, especially on TH-cam!😂
What's the explanation for the double drop? It doesn't make sense to me...
Hey Sean. I got thinking like this: If you lower the truck on the standard spring, it will compress until it can carry the weight of the vehicle. This is the Load rate - the amount of weight that is designed to carry at specific ride height. If I now add more weight, the spring will compress more, right. But instead of adding more weight, I shorten the spring some. The weight remains the same, but I now have less spring material - the spring has to compress more until it settles at new ride height. So, the change has to be the vertical amount I cut off, PLUS the additional compression. Question is, how much is this? You get fancy formulas, but you need a lot of info, stuff related to type of steel used etc. Too much for us mere mortals... So, I searched for an easier way. - 2 car spring manufacturers in the States said the same thing: If you cut 1" from a tangential car spring, you will get 2" of body drop. Eaton Springs and Global West Suspensions. I guess they know what they talking about, so I'm going with that! Time will tell...
@@ratrodsafrica It makes sense. So it's not exactly 2x, but that's a pretty good thumb suck. I have zero spring theory myself, so this is interesting. Thanks!
@@seanhammon6639 I'm on a journey of discovery and learning myself! Happy to share. Ja, thumbsuck based on typical tangential automotive spring and a cut of 1". I'm pretty sure that factor will increase as you cut off more...
how much below with 1 turn
Sorry, I don't understand your question?
Will this work for my 95 f150?
I don't know, we never got the F150's in SA. But if it is a coil spring, the principles remain the same
@ratrodsafrica thank you for the peace of mind.
Awesome channel.. HOWZIT...
Thanks Street Truck Garage! And howzit back! Next time I'm in CT, will make a turn
Thanks
Can you speed it up mate
What do you want me to speed up?