Keith at our sailingboat we have a cooker bases in methelatit spirits. It is a large can : 20 cm diameter and 6 cm high, whith a hole About 6 cm at the top side. The hole is coffert with mesh, in the can is glaswool , like isolation material. We pour a liter spirit in the can, and when turn the can opside down it does not leak. Turn it back whith the hole om top its is a good burner . The brand is origo. Cotton is a wick for parrafin, like in a lamp Keep up the good work, greetings from Amsterdam
One way to feed the wick down the tube can be accomplished with a string. Feed a small diameter string down the tube with a weight, from whichever way is convenient. With the string available from both ends, just attach the string to the wick and pull it in! Respectfully submitted. I'm sure there are a thousand ways to skin this cat, but the cat doesn't like very many of them.
A string attached to a round cork a little smaller than the tube and a vacuum cleaner. Had to use this trick pulling new wire in existing metal conduit with a couple of 90 degree bends in a 30 foot run. Actually it wasn't a cork but a piece of plastic out of a pump bottle.
I found it helpful to place old brass or copper parts which are dirty and covered with oil first into a solution of concentrated hot washing powder/liquid . In the next step after rinsing the parts in water I use always solution of citric acid mixed with some sodium chlorid which generated partially hydrogenchlorid acid... but be careful it speeds up Zink degration out of the brass if one waits to long... nothing for overnight treatments :-) This I had done succesfully for restauration of over one hundert old burners, oil lamps, steam engine parts... so real life proven. Be careful with old wicks they are often made of asbestos and should be kept wet all the time before disposal to avoid the intake of particles by inhaling!
Here in the USA we have a product called 'Barkeeper's Friend' - it's like Vim but has a chemical in it that removes copper oxide (maybe oxalic acid). It works great & is probably safer than hydrochloric acid.
Hi... oxalic acid is a complex builder... so what happens chemically is a complex formation of the 2+Cu Ions and than they are relased from the copper... well what you also not really need indeed... Oxalic acid is also used to bound Iron 2+ Ions from rust in swimm bathes plates and so on... so you can loos some Zn by Hydrogenchlorid in the brass or you loos some Copper by Oxalic acid... At the end the Oxid is converted to H2O (Water) and the rest ZnCl2 or Cu (Oxalate) respectively...
washers going thru electrolysis 2 dissimilar metals and anything even slightly acidic creates electricity with the weaker metal (aluminum) getting eaten away first
I need to make a new burner for a small Bing locomotive i hawe, if i am not wrong i think the original had a 3 wick burner for the small models with a flat pipe in the bottom. Can i softsolder a new one from stock brass pipe, like 0,25/0,5? Does anyone here know where i can find some more information about those burners? (I think it's from the 1930s or possibly late 1920s)
@@keithappleton Thank You wery much for taking Your time with this! I bought the locomotive from England a while ago, so i am not sure if it's the same as the German wersions or if it was especialy made for export. I think i finaly found a picture of a small burner from the same era now where the burnerheads are pretty visible, it looks like very simple flatwick burners made from flattened out pipes. I think i will try to make a new tank from brass sheat and soft solder it together with 60/40 Maybe a wilesco solderfiting will do for the tank lid, i think i hawe a spare one laying around...
Keith at our sailingboat we have a cooker bases in methelatit spirits. It is a large can : 20 cm diameter and 6 cm high, whith a hole About 6 cm at the top side. The hole is coffert with mesh, in the can is glaswool , like isolation material. We pour a liter spirit in the can, and when turn the can opside down it does not leak. Turn it back whith the hole om top its is a good burner . The brand is origo. Cotton is a wick for parrafin, like in a lamp Keep up the good work, greetings from Amsterdam
My local farmers shop sells round braided glass fibre for use as door seals on wood burners, it's reall cheap and comes in different sizes.
One way to feed the wick down the tube can be accomplished with a string. Feed a small diameter string down the tube with a weight, from whichever way is convenient. With the string available from both ends, just attach the string to the wick and pull it in! Respectfully submitted. I'm sure there are a thousand ways to skin this cat, but the cat doesn't like very many of them.
A string attached to a round cork a little smaller than the tube and a vacuum cleaner. Had to use this trick pulling new wire in existing metal conduit with a couple of 90 degree bends in a 30 foot run. Actually it wasn't a cork but a piece of plastic out of a pump bottle.
I found it helpful to place old brass or copper parts which are dirty and covered with oil first into a solution of concentrated hot washing powder/liquid . In the next step after rinsing the parts in water I use always solution of citric acid mixed with some sodium chlorid which generated partially hydrogenchlorid acid... but be careful it speeds up Zink degration out of the brass if one waits to long... nothing for overnight treatments :-) This I had done succesfully for restauration of over one hundert old burners, oil lamps, steam engine parts... so real life proven. Be careful with old wicks they are often made of asbestos and should be kept wet all the time before disposal to avoid the intake of particles by inhaling!
Here in the USA we have a product called 'Barkeeper's Friend' - it's like Vim but has a chemical in it that removes copper oxide (maybe oxalic acid). It works great & is probably safer than hydrochloric acid.
Hi... oxalic acid is a complex builder... so what happens chemically is a complex formation of the 2+Cu Ions and than they are relased from the copper... well what you also not really need indeed... Oxalic acid is also used to bound Iron 2+ Ions from rust in swimm bathes plates and so on... so you can loos some Zn by Hydrogenchlorid in the brass or you loos some Copper by Oxalic acid... At the end the Oxid is converted to H2O (Water) and the rest ZnCl2 or Cu (Oxalate) respectively...
washers going thru electrolysis 2 dissimilar metals and anything even slightly acidic creates electricity with the weaker metal (aluminum) getting eaten away first
funny guy about the acid bath
Finally, morbid humor!
Imagine if the police were ever doing an inspection and came across a bin of acid with human like arms in it haha
🔧😊👍
I need to make a new burner for a small Bing locomotive i hawe, if i am not wrong i think the original had a 3 wick burner for the small models with a flat pipe in the bottom.
Can i softsolder a new one from stock brass pipe, like 0,25/0,5?
Does anyone here know where i can find some more information about those burners? (I think it's from the 1930s or possibly late 1920s)
All I can tell you is that the Stuart burner has a soft soldered tank . . . .
@@keithappleton Thank You wery much for taking Your time with this!
I bought the locomotive from England a while ago, so i am not sure if it's the same as the German wersions or if it was especialy made for export.
I think i finaly found a picture of a small burner from the same era now where the burnerheads are pretty visible, it looks like very simple flatwick burners made from flattened out pipes.
I think i will try to make a new tank from brass sheat and soft solder it together with 60/40
Maybe a wilesco solderfiting will do for the tank lid, i think i hawe a spare one laying around...