I've watched part four, then again I rewatched part four but as part 5 and now I'm currently re-rewatching part 5 as part 5... Can't wait for part 6 to be a re-re-rewatch of part 5 😂
@@mazchen Blondihacks does do intricate work, but I don't think anyone does miniaturized machining like Joe Pieszinski does miniaturized machining. Maybe Oxtool? IDK
Not sure how exactly to incorporate it but a good idea is to add a thrust bearing so that you can more easily apply more force. Maybe include it somewhere in the spacer arrangement.
@@bjrn-oskarrnning2740 no, if anything it would reduce that risk. Threads work by storing energy in stretching the fastener. Reducing friction means that more of the torque applied goes into actually stretching it, and less is wasted on overcoming the resistance. That's also why torque specced threads on engines *must* be lubricated during installation or the torque reading is invalid and the engine will shake itself loose.
I like the screw and socket securing. Normally for these sorts of things, I’ve welded a handle to the socket. I like the interchange while still keeping the socket from falling off.
That parting tool fail at 1:26 was impressive. Just how much the tool holder sprung back. Showed how much everything was moving. Be interesting to see a comparable insert failure on the new setup 😉
You have enough space to swap out your spacer on toolpost stud for a thrust bearing for clamping without shifting the toolpost if set off the location pin.
I found it deeply ironic that, in making a fixed tool block because "I hardly ever cut tapers on the lathe", you then proceed to cut 2 tapers on the lathe. 😅
Awesome stuff mate. I hope that you are pleased with the final result, because you should be bud. Your work around were top notch. I reckon I would have been raging and binned the part. Four thumbs up. I hope your finger is healing well too mate. Cheers.
Nice. I probably would have just used one pin and moved it from hole to hole when I changed positions. Not as convenient as 4, but by eliminating the other 3 pins you should have plenty of swing room to tighten up the post without spacers. Cool project for sure.
replace the spacer under the clamping nut with a thrust bearing, it will increase your clamping force stopping the tool post rotating for little trade off
Have you considered making a spring relief cut-off holder like the one made by Winky's Workshop? Would love to see your take on it and would even further help with your cut-off woes.
I’m thinking more along the lines of a rear cut off tool holder. I don’t know a whole lot about the spring relief design. I’ll have to do some research on the subject
@artisanmakes I would say the project is right up your alley, and I personally would love to see your take on it. If you need/want links on where to look let me know.
Ditch your spacer and get a suitable thickness thrust bearing to spread the load better when tightening, and maybe replace that screw with one you can mill away the end with, so it's not wonky, or miss a recess in the bolt?
All that work with the dowel pins for alignment when you had that nice T-slot waiting to be used as a keyway. I wonder if you could add a flange to your nut so that it automatically lifts the pins when you release the post.
@artisanmakes I was thinking of a fat key that would fill the T-slot, and slide in from the side. The top could have a wedge shape that would lock in like a taper and prevent any rotation. This would also increase the bearing surface immensely compared to a drilled hole that can be worn into an oval over time. This is just where my thoughts went while watching the video. Your solution will most likely last a few decades.
@@Kineth1... and it'd be using the outermost surface so it would resist the twisting forces much better than a pin close to the pivot point (toolpost). I was trying to think of a solution using the toolpost spacer but your idea seems simple and very strong.
a tip for stopping the marring on the top of your tools and increase tool holding pressure, add a 4 or 5mm shim on top of the tool to spread the load of the tool holding screws, the same as over tightening a gib
* Nerd mode on * Brown chips correspond to a temperature of 250°C - compared to 280°C for the "usual" blue color which is not far from expectation for a smaller machine as this one here. * Nerd mode off again *
@@emmanueleferrarotto2986 I use colours for most of my tempering and that sounds about right to me...I had no idea there was an expected range but it does make sense now I think about cutting speed to feed rate and all that number crunching physicsy stuff. thankyou
@@artisanmakes my artistic side defintely appreciated the brown chips ....but keeping the cut cooler makes for good working practice too...pretty cool stuff lol
would it make sense to replace the spacer/washer with a thrust bearing to make it easier to get good clamping force? I see some conflicting reports online, but general consensus seems to be that it is beneficial
Honestly we tried it with our machinery, and the holding force didn't improve much and it only made the holders come loose at moderate vibrations, so my personal opinion is that at least with bigger machinery it is not worth the trouble.
I’ll comment on this one too, but it won’t be negative this time I liked it just to say thanks for putting up the video I was waiting for Sorry, I’m Canadian
I had really good luck with the DESKAR MGMN300-H LF6018 on a 32 parting blade. Excelente finishes durability and jam free. I am using vc 140m/min, 0.06 - 0.08mm Fz, 5% coolant. The sandvik parting inserts work well to, but then you expect it for the price. DESKAR surprised me, same durability just less feed and speed.
The whole idea of a 4 way toolpost is to be simple and rigid. By drilling a lot oh holes and and using 4 licating pins you just lost rigidity and overcomplicated something that should be simple. The correct approach is to have a stud with a spring in the base, with an angled profile and 4 small blind holes on the bottom side of the toolpost. Like a rachet mechanism if you want. This way you have the locator and also you avoid the accidental rotation of the toolpost if you forget to torque the stud. Great work with the slide and raiser block. But this one you kind of massed up 😊
4 holes ain’t going to do much. I’m not going to do it but I could draw it up in CATIA and do the simulations. It won’t do much. I don’t much like the spring loaded pin, I much rather a physical dowel. Like I said I’m not entirely happy with it but it has nothing to do with strength. In any event it’s steel so it’ll be at least 50% more rigid than the grey cast toolpost that it’s replacing. Cheers
@@artisanmakes don't get me wrong, is not that isn't a working toolpost. Is just that you could have done it in a more elegant approach. keep up the good work.
@ yes you did. Here is a problem to think about. Maybe you can solve it. I have a 4 way tool post on my lathe too. I use hss as it is a hoby and I am not willing to invest in carbide. So i need to change tooling, resahpren, etc. What option do I have to adjust the height without a lot of shims and without changing to a quick change? I was thinking of something like 2 tapered plates with a leadscrew placed beneath the tool since I use mostly 8 or 10 mm hss tools. I have about 10mm of space to spare beneath the tool. I dare you to come up with a solution to keep the classic tool post and at the same time have a way to adjust the height. 😀
FYI, annealing is not the same as stress relieving. Stress relieving requires a different temperature/process. Annealing just gets the material to it's softest state, but doesn't necessarily remove all the stress and may even impart stress in already stress relieved material.
Yes they are obviously two different things. I don't think its possible to do a good stress relief with parts this big in a set up like this. It takes so long for the heat to soak all the way through and the heat is so uneven that its better to just reset the grain structure the best you can. Its a 10-12 hour cool down cycle, the stresses in the steel aren't worth worrying about. If I tried to normalize it, it might be worth talking about but not here.
I wish I could remember who it was that posted a video recently where they show off a parting blade holder with flexure that self-corrects when it binds instead of breaking. EDIT: It was Blondihacks' "Pistons - Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, Part 51" from 11 days ago.
At about 6.27 I watched you shake the whole lathe with little effort. You gotta fix that! I have a 1340 lathe, its 1300lbs. The difference in chatter, taper, and tool life with it bolted to concrete vs on leveling feet is amazing. On feet in a 20" cut the taper was .0015 this was at 2k RPM with a single pass .03 depth of cut in 4140 with coolant and follow rest. Repeated light passes took the taper to .0004. Bolted it to the concrete same cut, couldn't measure ANY taper. Surface finish, tool life, even the sound of the lathe all improved.
I’d love to bolt it to a slab of concrete, but it’s not my workshop. I am a bit limited in what I am able to do. That would be the goal one day when I have my own shop
Some simple observations on the fact that the distance from the tool-post mounting stud to the cutting tool also has something to do with successful parting.... lets call this the tool offset. Though lantern tool-posts are considered least rigid, they almost never have parting issues, the tool was ON the centre line of the stud ie zero offset. Four-way tool-posts have the next least amount of problems parting, and the next least offset from the cutting tip to the tool-post stud. QCTP have the most issues parting and the highest offset from the cutting edge to the tool-post stud. The smaller the lathe the bigger the issue across the tool-post types. Id never heard of parting issues for the most part until mini-lathes showed up on the market en-masse and cheap junk import insert tooling which is mostly unsuited to use on mini-lathes, the exception is the ground inserts "designed for aluminium". The mini-lathes existed but mostly in jewellery and watch/clock making so soft metals and trained operators and sharp and well maintained tool steel cutters. I think expectations need to be managed around quality, capacity and capability of lathe, tool-post selection, cutting tool type and experience of the operator. Happy and safe chipmaking all.
Sometimes I dive into the comments section b4 watching the actual video. Your content is very well written. I'm curious "you" are from USA? May I ask if you are. I did really enjoyed the stuff you wrote....
@badjuju6563 Ah, you just made so much sense of a video I watched some time ago - in that video the lathe had a long and beefy t-slot cross-slide like Arti just made. On the outboard end there was a smaller (narrower but still chunky) secondary toolpost with a parting blade. Once the gentleman had finished the turning he would throw the spindle in reverse, wind the cross-slide out and part off. At time I thought it was kind of a neat idea but fairly redundant with a QCTP. I had not considered the rigidity of the setup, now I believe it's genius. I will be keeping that idea in my backpocket for when I acquire my 'real lathe' next year. Thanks for making it really make sense, mate 😊👍
Have I read exactly this comment before, maybe on the Winky's Workshop sprung parting tool video? Anyway there's logic to your observation. I would guess that the offset results in the combination of the cross slide, compound and toolpost deforming rotationally causing the tool to jam in the kerf. I would further guess that this has less to do with the distance from the tool to the stud (though I'm sure slipping rotation of the toolpost has sometimes occurred) and more to do with the distance from the tool to the contact points between the compound and cross slide, and perhaps even between the cross slide and the ways. I wonder if moving the toolpost in the T slot of the compound to put the cutting load more centrally over the stack would help. A lack of torsional rigidity in the compound would explain why solid toolpost conversions are so successful at improving parting on import lathes.
You raised an interesting question during this video. "I bought a good lathe, and then spent all my money making it better." I remember you did a video on your old lathe of all of the modifications you did to it. What I'd like to know is, when you get to a point where you have done all of the modifications to this lathe that you want, add up the cost of making all of those upgrades, and add it to the base cost of the lathe, then check the market and see if any lathe in that price range would be your "perfect lathe". I think that would be an interesting discussion.
I think I made the same comment on the mods made on the old lathe. I added up the cost to make all the improvements to my old Colchester Roundhead Triumph to bring it up to a more modern standard, it's 1962, and decided to put the money into a newer machine. I got a Chinese equivalent to the Triumph that came from a university and is only 12 years old. It has everything on if that I wanted and the bed ways are totally unmarked. It's nothing like as well built as the old Triumph, but I'm at the other end of my working life to Artisan, I'm retired, so it'll see me out.
My solution to parting on a conventional. Cut it on the saw and face it or give the project to the cnc lathe. If you don't have a cnc refure to first solution. Lol
I'll probably blue it, not for rust resistance. Its a bit shiny and the reflections are messing with the camera. Its blowing out the image if im not careful
oops
goober
Do you have any idea how hard it was to figure out what the "Unavailable Video" was in my Watch Later queue!?!?!?!🤣
I was so confused. 🤣
🤣
I blame the hot and humid weather 🤣🤣🤣
I've watched part four, then again I rewatched part four but as part 5 and now I'm currently re-rewatching part 5 as part 5... Can't wait for part 6 to be a re-re-rewatch of part 5 😂
Ummm. What?
@@Handleyman He accidentally uploaded the part 4 video again instead of this video but titled it as part 5
Part 6 is going to be part 7 and you can't change my mind
a 20 minutes dejavu
Lol
I love watching this channel and inheritance machining, then switching over to Cutting Edge Engineering and seeing it 100 times bigger 😂
The difference between a hobby machinist and proper machine shop. Love that channel
Try the HAL heavy duty machining channel for some big lathe work.
When you start with Blondihacks you get it 10 times smaller.
@@mazchen Blondihacks does do intricate work, but I don't think anyone does miniaturized machining like Joe Pieszinski does miniaturized machining. Maybe Oxtool? IDK
@@NightsReign Stefan Gotteswinter does really small stuff
I am so glad that i am not the only one who has to start improvising in the middle of a project because of forgetting something. 😄
Not sure how exactly to incorporate it but a good idea is to add a thrust bearing so that you can more easily apply more force. Maybe include it somewhere in the spacer arrangement.
Not super critical when there's a dowel pin to lock the toolpost against rotation, but still worth doing for when it's rotated out of square I reckon.
Wouldn't that just increase the (very slim) chance that the nut works itself loose from vibrations during a cut?
@@bjrn-oskarrnning2740 no, if anything it would reduce that risk. Threads work by storing energy in stretching the fastener. Reducing friction means that more of the torque applied goes into actually stretching it, and less is wasted on overcoming the resistance. That's also why torque specced threads on engines *must* be lubricated during installation or the torque reading is invalid and the engine will shake itself loose.
Just like the upgrade was worth it, the wait for this video was worth it.
Thanks for the Part 5, it's looking so good and sturdy, exactly what you were going for.
Cheers 👍💪✌
I like the screw and socket securing. Normally for these sorts of things, I’ve welded a handle to the socket. I like the interchange while still keeping the socket from falling off.
Parting is such sweet sorrow!😀
That parting tool fail at 1:26 was impressive. Just how much the tool holder sprung back. Showed how much everything was moving. Be interesting to see a comparable insert failure on the new setup 😉
You have enough space to swap out your spacer on toolpost stud for a thrust bearing for clamping without shifting the toolpost if set off the location pin.
Heck yeah!
Just in time to watch before i go to bed.
Its a good night
Beautiful work, dude! It turned out amazing! 😃
Really well done!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I always use coolant when parting. It reduces vibration and less breaking
I am not a machinists but wow, your work is amazing
Neither am I. Cheers
Looks great, I was wondering about that first video. I watch every week. Thanks
Great build buddy most people wouldn’t even attempt this, well done.
Love ya freaking work mate
Good to see another committed Aussie putting out damn good machining content.
Awesome!!! As a long-time subscriber, i can say that for me your videos just keep getting better! I am inspired to maybe do some work on my cross lide
Loving the tool post handle, such simple thing but beatiful
Looking good!
Very nice work, nice test results, and the final picture looks like a totally remade hobby lathe ready for action. Enjoyed the video, cheers!
Very impressive result and it looks like it was worth the effort. Well done. Subscribed.
I found it deeply ironic that, in making a fixed tool block because "I hardly ever cut tapers on the lathe", you then proceed to cut 2 tapers on the lathe. 😅
The irony isn’t lost on me
those 2 was the last ones )
Awesome stuff mate. I hope that you are pleased with the final result, because you should be bud. Your work around were top notch. I reckon I would have been raging and binned the part. Four thumbs up. I hope your finger is healing well too mate. Cheers.
Future project: grinding wheel(??) Just bought one of these lathes. It's awesome. Like a Rolls Royce compared to my old one.
Would recommend a thrust bearing in place of the spacer...
Here it is !! Was waiting for this one lol
Nice. I probably would have just used one pin and moved it from hole to hole when I changed positions. Not as convenient as 4, but by eliminating the other 3 pins you should have plenty of swing room to tighten up the post without spacers. Cool project for sure.
Yeah I guess it depends what priorities you want from it.
Yes one pin is plenty enough 😅
All good.
replace the spacer under the clamping nut with a thrust bearing, it will increase your clamping force stopping the tool post rotating for little trade off
Have you considered making a spring relief cut-off holder like the one made by Winky's Workshop? Would love to see your take on it and would even further help with your cut-off woes.
I’m thinking more along the lines of a rear cut off tool holder. I don’t know a whole lot about the spring relief design. I’ll have to do some research on the subject
@artisanmakes I would say the project is right up your alley, and I personally would love to see your take on it. If you need/want links on where to look let me know.
At 15:05, that reamer looks to have a bit of runout. Would that "oversize"the hole?
I saw the notification, wait till to the bed, the video is gone. Finally back on.😄
Ditch your spacer and get a suitable thickness thrust bearing to spread the load better when tightening, and maybe replace that screw with one you can mill away the end with, so it's not wonky, or miss a recess in the bolt?
Yatzeeeeee! Well done
I hope that after all the impeccable work, you faced the end of the tool post stud to remove the nasty hacksaw finish 😉
You can make springy toolholder for parting blade.
That looks fantastic, great job!
Excellent work, really nice.
All that work with the dowel pins for alignment when you had that nice T-slot waiting to be used as a keyway.
I wonder if you could add a flange to your nut so that it automatically lifts the pins when you release the post.
It could work I guess, but I’d have to remove the tool post to add the keys no?
@artisanmakes I was thinking of a fat key that would fill the T-slot, and slide in from the side. The top could have a wedge shape that would lock in like a taper and prevent any rotation. This would also increase the bearing surface immensely compared to a drilled hole that can be worn into an oval over time.
This is just where my thoughts went while watching the video. Your solution will most likely last a few decades.
@@Kineth1... and it'd be using the outermost surface so it would resist the twisting forces much better than a pin close to the pivot point (toolpost).
I was trying to think of a solution using the toolpost spacer but your idea seems simple and very strong.
Truly excellent work!
a tip for stopping the marring on the top of your tools and increase tool holding pressure, add a 4 or 5mm shim on top of the tool to spread the load of the tool holding screws, the same as over tightening a gib
Parting is such sweet sorrow
you don't see brown chips too often,
well made I say... These upgrades are getting better and better
Thanks for sharing
* Nerd mode on *
Brown chips correspond to a temperature of 250°C - compared to 280°C for the "usual" blue color which is not far from expectation for a smaller machine as this one here.
* Nerd mode off again *
I can do blue chips normally, but I dont think I’ve ever gotten brown or blue chips with a boring bar.
@@emmanueleferrarotto2986 I use colours for most of my tempering and that sounds about right to me...I had no idea there was an expected range but it does make sense now I think about cutting speed to feed rate and all that number crunching physicsy stuff.
thankyou
@@artisanmakes my artistic side defintely appreciated the brown chips ....but keeping the cut cooler makes for good working practice too...pretty cool stuff lol
@TalRohan it's actually chemistry but you're welcome
Fabulous work. 👏👏👍😀
Did someone have a blonde moment yesterday, huh! lol Thank you for sharing your time with us, some times twice. Have a great day.
Editing till 5am will do that to you
Could you share some details of your fly cutter. You seem to get amazing finish from it, even with quite a long stickout.
He made one in a video maybe a year ago. Assume that is the one used here.
Parting off with power feed very nice, that's something I can only manage with aluminium.
Комментарий в поддержку канала и ролика, а также труда мастера.
It looks so good.
would it make sense to replace the spacer/washer with a thrust bearing to make it easier to get good clamping force? I see some conflicting reports online, but general consensus seems to be that it is beneficial
Honestly we tried it with our machinery, and the holding force didn't improve much and it only made the holders come loose at moderate vibrations, so my personal opinion is that at least with bigger machinery it is not worth the trouble.
good job
Nicely done
The second is the one that matters
Perhaps I missed it, but you could have put the locating pins on the diagonal, it would have given you a few more mm.
I’m not sure where because the screws were in the way
Another fine video.
I’ll comment on this one too, but it won’t be negative this time
I liked it just to say thanks for putting up the video I was waiting for
Sorry, I’m Canadian
FYI they make spring loaded parting blades. See Blondihacks video Part 51.
looks great!!!!
I'd put a thruust bearing ringht there where you put the spacer
Is there any reason you didn't make the dowel holes in the diagonals of the tool post?
Use instead of the spacer a thrust bearing to increase the clamping force.
Don't forget to blue it. Nice work
I’ll have to. The reflections are blowing out the video
Man it was a big night and took me at least 15 minutes to work out I was watching las weeks video again
I had really good luck with the DESKAR MGMN300-H LF6018 on a 32 parting blade. Excelente finishes durability and jam free. I am using vc 140m/min, 0.06 - 0.08mm Fz, 5% coolant. The sandvik parting inserts work well to, but then you expect it for the price. DESKAR surprised me, same durability just less feed and speed.
with that bigger cross slide have you considered a rear tool post mount just for parting ops?
A thrust bearing instead of a spacer there at the top of the post would be a nice improvement.
Thanks for sharing 👍
Very nice job!! 😁👍
I know you take some pride in your hacksawing prowess, but maybe a bandsaw build for a future project?
Very nice now i regret that i sold all my stuff and gave up that hobby 😢😂
The whole idea of a 4 way toolpost is to be simple and rigid. By drilling a lot oh holes and and using 4 licating pins you just lost rigidity and overcomplicated something that should be simple. The correct approach is to have a stud with a spring in the base, with an angled profile and 4 small blind holes on the bottom side of the toolpost. Like a rachet mechanism if you want. This way you have the locator and also you avoid the accidental rotation of the toolpost if you forget to torque the stud. Great work with the slide and raiser block. But this one you kind of massed up 😊
4 holes ain’t going to do much. I’m not going to do it but I could draw it up in CATIA and do the simulations. It won’t do much. I don’t much like the spring loaded pin, I much rather a physical dowel. Like I said I’m not entirely happy with it but it has nothing to do with strength. In any event it’s steel so it’ll be at least 50% more rigid than the grey cast toolpost that it’s replacing. Cheers
@@artisanmakes don't get me wrong, is not that isn't a working toolpost. Is just that you could have done it in a more elegant approach. keep up the good work.
I know that. I even said in the video that it wasn’t my original plan to do this. I’m just making do with the tight spot I got myself into. Cheers
@ yes you did. Here is a problem to think about. Maybe you can solve it. I have a 4 way tool post on my lathe too. I use hss as it is a hoby and I am not willing to invest in carbide. So i need to change tooling, resahpren, etc. What option do I have to adjust the height without a lot of shims and without changing to a quick change? I was thinking of something like 2 tapered plates with a leadscrew placed beneath the tool since I use mostly 8 or 10 mm hss tools. I have about 10mm of space to spare beneath the tool. I dare you to come up with a solution to keep the classic tool post and at the same time have a way to adjust the height. 😀
FYI, annealing is not the same as stress relieving. Stress relieving requires a different temperature/process. Annealing just gets the material to it's softest state, but doesn't necessarily remove all the stress and may even impart stress in already stress relieved material.
Yes they are obviously two different things. I don't think its possible to do a good stress relief with parts this big in a set up like this. It takes so long for the heat to soak all the way through and the heat is so uneven that its better to just reset the grain structure the best you can. Its a 10-12 hour cool down cycle, the stresses in the steel aren't worth worrying about. If I tried to normalize it, it might be worth talking about but not here.
second times the charm ;)
I would replace that nut washer with a thrust bearing so your tool post doesn't spin when you tighten the nut.
hell yeah
I wish I could remember who it was that posted a video recently where they show off a parting blade holder with flexure that self-corrects when it binds instead of breaking. EDIT: It was Blondihacks' "Pistons - Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, Part 51" from 11 days ago.
0:18 inheritance machining in shambles rn
At about 6.27 I watched you shake the whole lathe with little effort. You gotta fix that!
I have a 1340 lathe, its 1300lbs. The difference in chatter, taper, and tool life with it bolted to concrete vs on leveling feet is amazing. On feet in a 20" cut the taper was .0015 this was at 2k RPM with a single pass .03 depth of cut in 4140 with coolant and follow rest. Repeated light passes took the taper to .0004. Bolted it to the concrete same cut, couldn't measure ANY taper. Surface finish, tool life, even the sound of the lathe all improved.
I’d love to bolt it to a slab of concrete, but it’s not my workshop. I am a bit limited in what I am able to do. That would be the goal one day when I have my own shop
Some simple observations on the fact that the distance from the tool-post mounting stud to the cutting tool also has something to do with successful parting.... lets call this the tool offset.
Though lantern tool-posts are considered least rigid, they almost never have parting issues, the tool was ON the centre line of the stud ie zero offset.
Four-way tool-posts have the next least amount of problems parting, and the next least offset from the cutting tip to the tool-post stud.
QCTP have the most issues parting and the highest offset from the cutting edge to the tool-post stud.
The smaller the lathe the bigger the issue across the tool-post types.
Id never heard of parting issues for the most part until mini-lathes showed up on the market en-masse and cheap junk import insert tooling which is mostly unsuited to use on mini-lathes, the exception is the ground inserts "designed for aluminium". The mini-lathes existed but mostly in jewellery and watch/clock making so soft metals and trained operators and sharp and well maintained tool steel cutters.
I think expectations need to be managed around quality, capacity and capability of lathe, tool-post selection, cutting tool type and experience of the operator.
Happy and safe chipmaking all.
Sometimes I dive into the comments section b4 watching the actual video. Your content is very well written. I'm curious "you" are from USA? May I ask if you are. I did really enjoyed the stuff you wrote....
@@keithmonarch447 He is in Sydney Australia AFAIK
@badjuju6563 Ah, you just made so much sense of a video I watched some time ago - in that video the lathe had a long and beefy t-slot cross-slide like Arti just made. On the outboard end there was a smaller (narrower but still chunky) secondary toolpost with a parting blade. Once the gentleman had finished the turning he would throw the spindle in reverse, wind the cross-slide out and part off.
At time I thought it was kind of a neat idea but fairly redundant with a QCTP. I had not considered the rigidity of the setup, now I believe it's genius.
I will be keeping that idea in my backpocket for when I acquire my 'real lathe' next year.
Thanks for making it really make sense, mate 😊👍
Have I read exactly this comment before, maybe on the Winky's Workshop sprung parting tool video?
Anyway there's logic to your observation. I would guess that the offset results in the combination of the cross slide, compound and toolpost deforming rotationally causing the tool to jam in the kerf. I would further guess that this has less to do with the distance from the tool to the stud (though I'm sure slipping rotation of the toolpost has sometimes occurred) and more to do with the distance from the tool to the contact points between the compound and cross slide, and perhaps even between the cross slide and the ways. I wonder if moving the toolpost in the T slot of the compound to put the cutting load more centrally over the stack would help.
A lack of torsional rigidity in the compound would explain why solid toolpost conversions are so successful at improving parting on import lathes.
@@cooperised it is indeed a cut and paste of most of my comment on Winkys Workshop.
solid result - hope your finger has healed even more
Back to normal for the most part. Very quick recovery
still waiting for that 9th M8 hole :D
You raised an interesting question during this video. "I bought a good lathe, and then spent all my money making it better." I remember you did a video on your old lathe of all of the modifications you did to it. What I'd like to know is, when you get to a point where you have done all of the modifications to this lathe that you want, add up the cost of making all of those upgrades, and add it to the base cost of the lathe, then check the market and see if any lathe in that price range would be your "perfect lathe". I think that would be an interesting discussion.
All the lathes around this size are a bit rubbish. There is no stand out model that I wouldn’t throw money at upgrading if I had chosen them. Cheers
but just buying the tool takes all the fun out of it! Lol.
- someone who decided to spend ~$500 building a ~$200 guitar
I think I made the same comment on the mods made on the old lathe.
I added up the cost to make all the improvements to my old Colchester Roundhead Triumph to bring it up to a more modern standard, it's 1962, and decided to put the money into a newer machine. I got a Chinese equivalent to the Triumph that came from a university and is only 12 years old. It has everything on if that I wanted and the bed ways are totally unmarked. It's nothing like as well built as the old Triumph, but I'm at the other end of my working life to Artisan, I'm retired, so it'll see me out.
But then you'd just have a nice lathe and nothing to make videos about.
A bit like running a car restoration channel and starting with a perfect car 😄
Lol. There ya go!!!
thanks
Really nice! All the precision and accuracy where they need to be, and MIG welding a D ring where it just needs to hang on a hook. Love it!
My solution to parting on a conventional. Cut it on the saw and face it or give the project to the cnc lathe. If you don't have a cnc refure to first solution. Lol
5/5 👍🏻
I thought you would have knurled the tool post handle!
👍👍👍
Next up: casting bigger, stronger bed!
Nice 😅
yay
Thrust washer under the 4way nut. Eases the nut torque for maximum clamp force.
You gonna blue it? Or some sort of rust resistant it? Also at 20:00 You just need some little machinist jacks! new project if you don't have any!
I'll probably blue it, not for rust resistance. Its a bit shiny and the reflections are messing with the camera. Its blowing out the image if im not careful
@@artisanmakes Makes sense. It does look pretty shiny lol
Nice indeed. Only part I wonder is the socket. It is so loose.
It’s how the socket is I guess.
@@artisanmakes Indeed. I wonder if you could use thin shim sheets in it to make it fit better.
Taper attachment so you do not ever need to use the rotating compound?
maybe for cutting large threads but that's it
GYPPIEEEEEE! YESS! :D:D:D:D
It’s a good video, I’ll give you that. But does it really compare to part 4 (remastered)?
Its a nostalgia thing.